gold purle manufacture prohibited by, 319 and n921
Great Wardrobe Account, 311 n878, 317 and n903, 318 nl7
Honiton lace industry in time of, 401
lace of, 64
monopolies granted by, 318-319, 378
period of, 315-326
ruffs under, 315-318
------ II.
Edinburgh visited by, 425
period of, 340
------ V. (of Scotland), 372 n1098, 418 and n1172
------ VI. (of Scotland), 422 and n1195
------, Jacques, 205
Jane Seymour, 292
Japan, Honiton lace imitated in, 417
Jean lace. _See_ Genoa lace
Jerphanion, Sieur, 244
Jersey, Isle of, lace industry of, 372 and n1097
Jesuit lace, 445 and n1234
Jesuits, inventory of, cited, 331
Jesurum, Cav. Michelangelo, 62
Jew stick, 491 and n1349
Jewellery of 18th century, 346
Jews
Athenian lace used by, 86
embroidery of (ancient), 2
gold and silver lace made by, 92 and n270
Jingles of bobbins, 391 n1127
Johan Adolf, Prince, 282
Johnson, Dr., quoted, 367
Jointeuse, work of, 122
Jolly, Margareta, 348
Jonson, Ben, quoted, 43 n139, 302, 313 n890, 316 and n922, 318 n910,
n912, 327
Josephine, Empress, 123 n351, 177 n526
Jours, 31
Judith of Bavaria, 5
Junius, Hadrianus, 114 n327
Junot, Madame. _See_ Abrantès, Duchesse d'
Jurdaine, Mary, 306
Jutland lace industry, 274
Katherine of Aragon, Queen
Bedfordshire lace-industry attributed to, 375 and n1106, n1107, 376
needlework of, 9, 10 and n32
portrait of, 129 n367
Spanish fashions introduced by 10 n32, 310
----------, Queen (wife of Charles II.), 43
---------- Parr, Queen, 10 n34
Keck, 423
Keller, Dr. Ferd, 270 n728
Kenmare, lace industry of, 443, 444
Kennedy, Tristram, 440
Kettering, lace industry of, 384
Killigrew, quoted, 318 n908
Kilravock, Mistress Margaret, daughter of the Baron of, 425 n1198
Kinsale, lace industry at, 422 n1187
Knight, cited, 396
------, Miss, quoted, 264
Knole, old needlework at, 11
Knotted fringe, 13 and n47
-------- lace, 52, 68
Knox, Miss Jane, 438
Koehler, statuette by, 262
Königsmarck, Aurora, lace in tomb of, 366
La Boord, Madame, 43
La Chaise-Dieu, lace industry at, 249
"La Fontange," story of, 164
La Mancha, lace factory at, 102
La Motte, Maréchal, 29, 126 and n357
La Perrière, 155 n454, 157 n458
"La Providence" nuns, 226
La Vallière, 154, 464 n1280
Laborde, cited, 151 n438
Lace (_See also_ Old lace)
Biblical meaning of term, 2
definition of term, 26
foreign equivalent of term, 26 n77
manufactures of, before 1665, 44 n144
parts of, 30
point and pillow, 32
---- Association, aims of, 393
Laced handkerchiefs, 310 and n874
Lace-makers, ill-health of, 415
Lacis
Aurillac, 248
book of (1587), 18
definition of, 20 and n61, 21
_Don Quixote_, mentioned in, 98 n281
German, 264
Punto a maglia quadra, 52
Sicilian, 81
Tuscan, 68
Ladies as lace-makers, 163, 337, 355, 373, 374 and n1103
Ladomie, M., cited, 170 n501
Laffemas, quoted, 209 n583
Laid work, 301
Laimoxen, Balthasar, 489
Lalande, cited, 64
Lalma, 246
Lamb represented in lace, 21
Lamballe, Princesse de, 213
Lappets. _See_ Barbe
Larkin, Thomas, 312
Laroche, lace made at, 137
Larruga, cited, 101
Lassels, cited, 70;
quoted, 73
Latomus, Sigismund, 267, 491, 492
Lauber, Miss Jacobina, 282
Laulne, E. de, 476
Launceston, lace-making at, 371 n1094
Laval, Geneviève, 183 n540
Laybach, 268
Le Prince, 465
Le Puy
lace industry of
cheap laces, 246
descriptions of lace of, 245
export trade, 245;
value of annual export, 245 and n657
Haarlem thread used in, 245
import duties decreased, 244 and n653
numbers employed in, 242;
(1851), 257 n688;
in making Valenciennes, 245
sumptuary laws (seventeenth century), effect of, on, 243
lace schools of, 246 and n659
museum at, 246
Valenciennes lace at, 230 and n619
Le Quesnoy lace, 157 n459, 230
Lead, bobbins made of, 74 n235
Leber, M., cited, 487 n1336
Lee, Rev. William, 448 n1240
Lefébure, A.
blondes mates exported by, 226
point d'Argentan revived by, 208
quoted, 75 n237, 155 n453, 158 n463, 159 n464, 194, 200;
cited, 228, 250, 269 n724
teaching improved by, 227
Leicester, Countess of, 330
Leipsic, fair, 196 and n563; fabrics (1685), 265
Lennox, Countess of, 314
------, Duke of, 419 and n1176
Léonard, 181
Lepage, M., 134
L'Estoille, P. de, quoted, 141 n399
L'Estrange, Sir Thomas, 290
_Letters of a Lady's Travels in Spain_, quoted, 97-98
Leu, Sieur de la, manufactory of, 205-206
Liedts, Baroness, 138
Liège lace
account of industry, 136-137
point de Sedan, connected with, 254
price of (1701), 136 n386
Lierre
Mechlin lace made at, 125
pictures in St. Gomar, 109 n317
Light reflectors, bottles used as, 390 and n1125
Liguria, guipures of, 74
Lille
lace
compared with Spanish lace, 103;
with Arras, 235, 240;
with Valenciennes, Brussels and Mechlin, 237
cost of thread, 237 and n637
England, popularity in, 237 and n640;
Bedfordshire lace called "English Lille," 385
ground, 236-237
modern, 238
lace-industry
antiquity of, 235
decline of, 238
dress of lace-makers, 235 and n630
French duty on lace (1761), 237 n635
mignonette made (1665), 35
numbers employed in (1723), 237 n640;
(1788), 238, 257 n688
rivalry with Mirecourt, 252
value of (1788), 238
lace-workers, daily amount produced by, 233
thread, fineness of, 119 n339;
price of, 192 n553, 237 and n637;
export of, to Scotland, 432
Limerick lace, 440, 441 and n1230, 442 n1231, n1232;
lace school, 442
Limousin, 250
Lincoln, maiden assize at, 338 n991
Linen
embroidery of, 14
macramé, 79 and n248
Lisbon, lace factories at, 105
Lisle, Lady, 290 and n780
Loch, David, quoted, 433 and n1214;
cited, 434
Locke, quoted, 430
Loisel, Franç., Phelyplaux, 125 n354, 174 n520
Lombard peasants, lace worn by, 64
London
foreigners in (1571-1688), 129 n366, 299 n817, 306 and n853;
complaint of women against introduction of foreign merchants, 286;
complaints against foreign lace-makers, 324 n935
lace-making in, 373
------, Bishop of, sermon by, against ruffs, quoted, 316 and n899
------ _Chronicle_, cited, 4
------ _Gazette_, quoted, 11 n39, 126
Long Island, lace-making by Protestant settlers in, 372 n1099
Lonlay, Eugène de, cited, 208
Lonrai (Lonray), lace factory at, 155 n455, 156 and n457;
sale of stock, 196
------, Marquise de, 157 n457
_Lord Thomas_ (ballad), quoted, 15
L'Orme, Marion de, quoted, 125
Lorraine, lace industry (_see also_ Mirecourt), 251 and n672, n673;
Mignonette made (1665), 35;
numbers employed (1851), 257 n688
--------, Queen Louise de, 144
Lost property, advertisements for, 337 and n990, 338 and n992, 342 n1010
Loucelles, Abbé Suhard de, 226
Loudun, 256
Louis XI., 139 n393
------ XIII.
collar made at Venice for, 194
death of, 149
Flemish conquests of, 230 and n618
luxury and fashions of time of, 144-147
------ XIV.
census of (1684), 131
cravats presented to ambassadors by, 163
death of, effect on Alençon industry, 192
fashions of reign of, 161 _et seq._
fête at Marly, 163
Flemish conquests of, 230 and n618
gold and silver lace of period of, 154
Paris lace commerce under, 211
sumptuary laws of, 152
------ XV.
Court of, 172 and n505
fashions under
black lace masks, 177
jabots, 172-173
mourning, 178
relevailles of Parisian ladies, 174
ruffles, 171-173
point d'Alençon patterns under, 198-199 and n566
trousseau of eldest daughter of, 176
------ XVI.
fashions under, 179-181
phraseology of time of, 181
point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 and n566
ruffles of, 172 n508
Louisa, Queen (Sweden), 279
Louise de Vaudemont, Queen, 18, 478, 480
Louvain, pictures and altar piece at, 109, 110 and n317
--------, Widow, attempt of, to establish manufacture at Mortagne, 206
Louvres, lace-making at, 209
-------- en-Parisis lace, 212 n589
Lovat, Lady, 426 n1202
Low Countries. _See names of countries_
Lowndes, cited, 497 n1360, 500
--------, Richard, 380
Lubec, 264
Lucca, gold lace, 92
Lude, Duchesse de, 167 and n495
Luxada, cited, 75
Luxembourg, M. de, 167
----------, Maréchale de, 180
Luynes, Duc de, Memoirs of, quoted, 174 and n518, 176 n522
Luzarches lace, 212
Lydgate, quoted, 305
Lygum Kloster, 274 n736, 276 n738
Lyme Regis, lace industry of, 396-398
Lyons lace, 256
Lysons, cited, 384, 396; quoted, 405, 408
Mabbie, 423
Macaulay, John, 439 n1227
McCulloch, cited, 384
----------, E., cited, 224 n610
McCullow, Miss Martha, 438
Mache, 22 n70
Machine net, introduction of, 408
Machinery--"engines" of foreigners for lace-making, 324 n935
Maclean, Rev. William, 442, 443
McPherson, quoted, 112 n324
Macramé, 52, 79 and n247
Madden, Sir Fred., quoted, 297 n812
Madeira, laces of, 106, 107 and n316
Madras, Maltese-like lace made in, 88 n263
Madrid, lace factory at, 102
Magnus, Prince (Sweden), 280
Maidstone, complaints of, regarding imported Flemish thread, 324 n935
Mailly, Madame, 250
Maine, Madame de, 167
Maintenon, Madame de, 168, 183;
letter to, quoted, 99;
lace factory of, 163;
letter from, quoted, 172 and n506
_Malcontent_, quoted, 322
Malines exhibition, voile de bénédiction at, 195 n561, 251 n674
-------- lace. _See_ Mechlin lace
Malta, grave-clothes lace-trimmed at, 365
Maltese lace
account of industry, 87 and n262, 88
Danish manufacture of, 275
English manufacture of, 392, 393, 414 n1165
Greek lace similar to, 86
Guipure, 40
Madeira manufacture of, 107 n316
Saxon manufacture of, 263
Man, Isle of, lace industry of, 372 and n1096
Manchester thread, 119 n339
Manchettes. _See_ Ruffles
Manegetti di ponto Fiamengo, 111
Manilla grass thread-work, 89 n265
Mantegna, Andrea, 467
Mantillas, 226
Manzoni, Count, cited, 488 n1340
Mar, Countess of, 419 and n1176
Marcello, Countess Andriana, 61
Marche lace, 68, 138 n392
Marcq, Catherine de, 157 n458, 158 n460, 190
Mare, de la, cited, 148 n431, 152 n440
Margaret of Austria, 23 n74
Margherita, Queen of Italy, 61, 62
Margot, Reine, 11, 22, 49, 141, 142
Marguerite de France, 11 n36, 22, 27, 33 n102
Maria d'Aragon, portrait of, in pattern book, 497
------ Elizabeth, Electress Palatine, 491
Marie Antoinette
autograph letter, referred to, 213
fans and laces distributed by, 180
fashion at court of, 179-180
gazette of (1782), 181 n537
point de Marli worn by, 225
sale of lace of, 183
------ Louise, Brussels lace presented to, 124;
lace trousseau of, 184, 196
------ Theresa, 259 and n699
Marnef, Hierosme de, 496
Marillac, Maréchal de, 147 n428, 265 n715
Marini, cited, 58
Marlborough, lace industry at, 395
Marli, 180 and n532
Marly, fête at, 163
Marriott, William, 380
Marryat, Captain, cited, 413;
lace industry assisted by, 410
--------, Mrs., 500 n1365
--------, Miss Cecilia, 410
Marsan, Comte de, 210 and n585
------, Mlle. de, 211
Mary, Princess, daughter of George II., 348
---- I.
accounts of, quoted, 297
gift of Spanish work to, 10 n32;
Flanders work to, 294
interment of, 180
present to Lady Calthorpe, 297
ruffs of, 310
sumptuary laws, 293
---- of Burgundy, 135
----, Queen of Hungary, 113
---- de Médicis
collarette of, 143-144
death of, 149
fashion dolls sent to, 170 n501
pattern book dedicated to, 22, 494
point de Gennes of, 72
sumptuary law published by, 144 and n419;
evaded by, 149 and n434
Mary of Modena, Queen, 341, 425
---- II.
fontange of, 342
knotted fringe worked by, 13 and n47
lace bills of, quoted, 168 n496
Mechlin ruffles of, 126 and n364
---- Stuart
dentelle of, 27
finery of, overhauled by Elizabeth, 307 and n860
guipures of, 37 and n120, 38
inventories of, cited, 21, 33 n102, 302 n828, 314, 325 n939, 372 n1098
needlework done by, 10, 11, 420, 421
ruff on effigy of, 316 n901
wardrobe of, 419 and n1177, 420 and n1182, 421
will of, 22
Masch (Mawsch) 22 and n70, 419
Massillon, encouragement of lace industry by, 243
Massimo, Prince, reference to library of, 466, 468 n1290, 495 n1357
Massinger, quoted, 265 n717, 296 and n804
Matignon, Mlle, de, 176
Matilda, Empress, Bayeux Tapestry ascribed to, 6 n22
--------, Queen, Bayeux Tapestry ascribed to, 6 and n23
Matsys, Quentin, 109, 110
Matthew of Paris, anecdote by, 7
Maximilian, King of the Romans, 289
Maynard, Mrs. Lydia, 404
Mayne, Jasper, quoted, 317 and n905, 324 and n936
Mazarin, Cardinal, 143 n412, 150, 151 and n439, 248
Mazzarine, 343 and n1017
Mechlin lace
arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365
"Broderie de Malines" a term for, 125
characteristic of, 31, 125
compared with Bayeux lace, 228;
with Brussels, 118;
with Cretan mesh work, 87;
with Lille, 237;
with point de Dieppe, 218;
with St. Trond, 137;
with Valenciennes, 233
decline of manufacture, 125
description of, 124-125
earliest references to, 125-126
English fashion for, 126
grounds in, 125
imperial layette (1856), in, 198
Lille, pattern adopted at, 238
points de France rivalled by, 177-178
Pope's apron bordered with, 70
Turnhout manufacture of, 125, 131
uses of, 127-128
varieties included by term (1665), 35
---- net, 448
Medici collars, 56
Médicis family (_See also_ Katherine _and_ Mary), influence on fashions,
139
Melville, Sir Robert, 37
_Memoirs of Madame Palatine_, cited, 354
Men as lace workers
Chili, 108
England, 392;
south, 371 n1092;
Northamptonshire, 385;
Devonshire, 413, 414
France, 155
Madeira, 107 n316
Normandy (soldiers), 225
Saxony, 263
work of, compared with that of women, 263
Menin lace, 232 n624
Menzikoff, Prince, funeral of daughter of, 366 n1083
Meran blonde, 256
Mercier, Baron, lace school of, 196
----, S., quoted, 121 and n348, 170 n500, 171 and n502
Méric lace, 212
Merli, Cav. Antonio, cited, 46 and n150, 47, 50, 462, 466, 468 n1291,
n1292, 487
Merli à piombini, 32 n98
Mermaid's lace, 49
Meshes, Cretan skill in, 86
Messina, lace work at, 81
Metal laces, Sicilian, 86
Mexico, mantillas exported to, 226
Meyer, Daniel, 496
Mézières lace, 183 n539, 253, 254
Mezzo punto, 58
Michel, Francisque, cited, 104;
quoted, 251 n669
----, Pfarrer, 266
Michele, La Sig. Gabriella Zeno, 484
Middleton, quoted, 312 n884
Mignerak, Milour, pattern book of, 21, 22, 29, 493
Mignonette, 34 and n107, 35 and nn, 210, 237, 251
Milan
Albissola lace bought for Napoleon I.'s coronation at, 78
Cantu the centre of lace of, 66
cathedral, lace camicie in underground chapel of, 66
early record of Italian lace belonging to, 63
Genoese lace contrasted with lace of, 75 n236
Greek lace made at, 85
Old Milan point, 65
punto di Napoli contrasted with point of, 71
réseau of points of, 66
wire lace industry at, 72
Milward & Co., 380
Minas Geraes, lace of, 108
Minifie, Mrs., 400 and n1140, 401 and n1142
Mirecourt lace, 212, 238, 251-253, 257 n688
Misson, F. M., cited, 54 n186;
quoted, 267
Mitchell, Mr. and Mrs., advertisement of school of, 431 n1209
Modano, Tuscan, 52, 68
Modène, Duchess of
inventory of, quoted, 120 n344, 121 n347, 128 n363, 135 and n383, 175
n520, 213 and n590
ruffles of, 233
Modes, 31
Molière, quoted, 152, 153 n442, 173 n515
Mompesson, Sir Giles, 318 and n914
Monaghan, crochet industry of, 444, 445
Moncrieffe, Sir Thomas, 425
Monks, needlework done by, 12 and n40
Mons lace, 134-135
"Monsieur de Paris," 173
Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, 57, 59, 73;
quoted, 128, 356 and n1061
Montague, Mrs. Elizabeth, quoted, 352
---- R., account entry by, 335 n982
Montargis, 256
Montbéliard, pattern-book published at, 28
Montchrestien, cited, 209 n583
Monteagle, Lord, 10 n32
Monteleon, Princess of, 98
Monthulay, family, 204
---- Sieur de, 205, 206
Montmorency, lace-making at, 209, 213 n589
Montrose, pearlin of, 423
Moorish lace, 104
Moors, Spanish lace-making attributed to, 45
Morant, Captain, 440
More, Mrs. Hannah, quoted, 368
Moreau, General, 13
Moretti, Nicolo, 484
Morgan, cited, 435
---- Sydney, Lady, 369
Morges lace, 212 n589
Morin, M.A., cited, 220 n606
Mortagne, 206
Moryson, Agnes, quoted, 55, 70, 73, 87, 258, 265, 268, 274
Moscow, lace school at, 284
Motteville, Mme., quoted, 154 n447
Mountague, Alice, 308
Mourning, lace discarded in, in James I.'s time, 324
Murat, Caroline, 183
---- laces, 248, 249
Mzeresk lace, 283
Nanduti, 108
Nani, Signora Viena Vendramina, 485
Nankin silk thread, 223 n608
Naples
Greek lace made at, 85
lace from a palace at, 51 n175
lace of, 70-71;
lace work of industrial school at, 83 n352
Napoleon
bed made for, 196
favourite laces of, 128, 184
lace industry encouraged by, 123-124, 183-185, 196;
attempt to revive Valenciennes, 231.
Nardendal, custom of natives of, 283
National Gallery portraits, illustrations of ruffs in, 316 n901
Navarre, Queen of, accounts of, quoted, 67, 141 n406, 142 n409, n411
Needle lace (_See also_ Point à l'aiguille)
Alençon known as "needle-point," 195
Irish, 443
method of making, 32
Queen Elizabeth's, 305
Nelson, Lord, anecdote of, 264
Nemours, Duchesse de, 235
Nesmond, Marquis de, 117 and n331
Netherlands. _See_ Flanders, Belgium, Holland _and_ Brabant
Netting, 20, 21, 52;
machine net, 408
Neufchâtel lace industry, 270 and n726
Neville, Mary, marriage clothes of, 291 n779
New Ross convent, lace made at, 444
Newport Pagnel lace, 375 n1105, 378, 382, 384
Newton, Rev. John, letter from Cowper to, 379
Nicholas, Edward, 329 n957
-------- Susanne, 329 n957
Nichols, quoted, 294 n791, 303 n833
Nicolas, Etienne, 160 n466
Night caps, 323
Noailles, Madame de, anecdote of, 180 n533
Normanby, Lady, 441
Normandy
lace industry of. (_See also_ Calvados _and_ Dieppe)
centres of, 216, 218
French Revolution, effect of, 223
mignonette made (1665), 35
numbers employed in different localities, 228 n614;
(1851), 257 n688
value of, 228 n614
peasant women, Valenciennes bought by, 235
Norris, Sir Henry, 307
Northamptonshire lace, 384-393
Nosegays, lace trimmings for, 55
Nottingham lace, 441;
Isle of Wight lace compared with, 372 n1097;
machine-made blondes, 225;
imitation mantillas, 227
Novgorod, fabric at, 283
Nuns, lace washed by, 373 and n1101
---- as lace-makers
Flanders, 354
Italy, 47 and n154;
Burano, 58;
Florence, 67, 68;
Cantu, 80
Portugal, 105, 107
Spain, 93
Nuremberg, 266, 267
Oberkirch, Baroness de, extract from Memoires of, 182
O'Brien, Mrs. R. V., 442
O'Hagan, Mother Abbess, 443
O'Halloran, Mr., 436
Old lace
indifference to, 368 and n1090
mania for, 369
restoration of, 411, 412
Oldfield, Mrs., 367
Olney, lace industry of, 378, 380 n1119
Opus tract, 302
Orfreys, 3 n13
Orléans, Duchesse d', quoted, 166 n489
-------- Dukes of, inventories of, quoted, 120 n342, n344, 221 and n607
Orléanois lace industry, 256
Orsa lace, 281
Ostans, Giovanni, 484
------ Jean, 475
Oudenarde lace, 134
Our Lady of La Solidad, costly robes of, 90
--- ---- of Loreto, laces of, not described, 69
Overbury murder, 317
Oxford, opinion of, on falling bands, 326
------ Countess of, 9 n31
Oyah (Turkish crochet), 45, 87
Pagan, Mathio, 468, 471
Paganino, Alessandro, 468
Paganinus, P. A., 472
Paget, Lady, 295
Pagodes, 168 n496
Paintings, earliest in which lace occurs, 47;
lace in paintings of 18th century, 222, 364
Palatine, Count, 326
-------- Madame, 168;
Memoires of, quoted, 178
Pale of rose point, 51 and n174
Palermo
grave clothes at, 366 and n1081
sculptured lace in villa near, 71
Palestine, lace-making at, 59 and n195
Pandore, la grande, 170
Parasole, Elisabetta Catanea, 495
-------- Isabella Catanea, 491, 496
Parchment lace, 37 and n122, 38 and n126, n129, n131, 297, 298
Paris
churches, lace of, 120 n342, 161 n467, n469
English laces in demand at (1788), 368, 379
exhibitions. _See under_ Exhibitions
lace industry
Binche and Mirecourt flowers applied at, 212
Bisette made (1665), 33 and n102
commerce of lace under Louis XIV, 211 and n587
Dumont's fabric, 211
factories round, 209
guipures made (1665), 36 and n114
mignonette made (1655), 35
numbers employed (1851), 257 n688
passementiers privileged in, 44
pattern books in, 12 and n43
Parisini, Agostino, 477
Partlet, 297 n810
Pasax, Marquis de, 190
Pasini, Tomaso, 483
Pasment in Scotland, 418
Pasolini, Countess, 81 n248
Passament (passement)
definition of term, 26 and n79, 27
guipure a kind of, 36
references to, 27-29
"Passement Bond, The," 419
Passerotti, Aurelio, 472
Pattern-books
Belgium
Antwerp (n. d.), 130, 463
Liège (1597), 136, 488
cut-works, of (1591), 20 n62
earliest dated, 18;
earliest known, 376 n1108
England
London (1591), 482;
(1624), 497;
(1632), 499;
(1640), 500
Northampton, 384
France
Lyon (n. d.), 92 n269, 465, 466;
(1549) 92 n269, 144, 464;
(1581), 475
Mignerak's, 21, 22, 29, 144, 493
Montbéliard (1598), 28, 489, 490
Paris, in Bibliothèque Impériale, 12 n43;
in St. Geneviève's library, 12;
(n. d.), 468;
(1530) 144, 461;
(1546), 464;
(1564), 475;
(1584), 476;
(1587), 17, 18, 477;
(1587, 1588, 1595, 1606), 479-481;
(1601), 20 n62, 490;
(1605), 493;
(1613), 494;
(1623), 498;
(1722), 501
Germany
Augsburg (1534), 267, 462
Cologne (1527), 268, 459
Frankfort (n.d.), 470;
(1537), 470
Frankfort-on-the-Maine (1568, 1569, 1571), 470;
(1605), 267, 491;
(1607), 492;
(1618), 496
Leipsic (1619), 496
Lindau am Bodensee (n.d.), 488
Nuremberg (n.d.) 502;
(1597), 489;
(1601, 1604), 266, 490;
(1666), 501;
(1676), 501
Nuremberg and Leipzig, (1784), 501
Strasburg (1556), 469
gold and silver lace, of, 92
Italy
Bologna (n.d.), 477;
(1591), 483
Florence (1596), 488
Padua (1555), 469;
(1604), 491
Pistoja (1642), 53 n181, 85, 92 n269, 500
Rome (1616), 495;
(1625), 496
Siena (1603), 488
Turin (1589), 481
Venice (n.d.), 466, 471, 498;
(1529), 461;
(1530), 53 n179, 460;
(1532), 462;
(1537), 462;
(1542), 463;
(1543, 1544), 464;
(1548), 53 n179, 468;
(1551), 468;
(1556), 469;
(1557), 472;
(1558), 471;
(1559), 92 n269, 471, 472;
(1560), 473;
(1563), 474;
(1564), 53 n179, 54 n182, 474, 475;
(1567), 475;
(1584), 476;
(1591), 53 n179, 54 n182, 484;
(1592) (Corona of Vecellio), 50 n167, 54 n182, 484;
(1594), 486;
(1600), 68, 491, 496;
(1620 and 1625), 54 n182, 497
Samplars a substitute for, 22-23
Switzerland
Basle (1599), 271, 490
St. Gall (1593), 271, 487
Zurich, 271, 469
unknown points in, 54 n182
Vienna Museum, in, 263
Pauline, Princess, 184, 185
Pays de Caux, 216
Peacham, quoted, 325, 329
Pearl (picot), 31
------ ties, 31
Pearlin, 422, 423
Pedlars, lace trade carried on by, 43 and n139, 44 and n142, n143
Pelegrin, Francisque, pattern book of, 144, 461
Pelican represented in lace, 21
Pellestrina, revival of pillow lace at, 62
Pembroke, Countess of, 322, 500
Peniche
bobbins used at, 106 n314
lace industry of, 107 and n315
Pennant, quoted, 382;
cited, 431 n1208
Penne, Mrs., 294
Penshurst, old needlework at, 11
Penthièvre, Duc de
Eu lace patronised by, 221
inventory of, quoted, 117 n333, 195 n549
wardrobe account of, quoted, 172 and n510, n511, 211 n588
Peplos, embroidery of, 3 n8
_Pepys' Diary_, quoted, 153 n444, 337, 338
Persia, drawn-work of, 45
Peru and Mexico, lace imported to, from Le Puy, 245
Perugia, Torchon made at, 81 n248
Peter the Great, 283
Petersen, Anders, 280
Petre, Madame, of Gefle, information supplied by, 282 n750
Peuchet, cited, 132, 224, 256, 265, 377, 395;
quoted, 216 n595, 218 n600, 220 n605, 225, 237 n640, 239, 244, 245 and
n657, 268, 396, 432
"Pharsalia" quoted, 25
Philip II. (Spain), 67, 310
------ III. (Spain), 97
Philippa, Queen, 278, 285 and n754
Philippine Islands, Manilla grass threadwork of, 89 n265
Phrygians, embroidery of, 3 and n13
Pianesani, Francesco, 462
Picard, M., 490 n1346
Picchetti, Marie, 79
Pichon, Baron J., 482, 493 n1355, 495 n1356
Pickleman, Jungfrau, 266
Pickpockets, 346
Picot (pearl), 31 and n92
Pigott, Miss, quoted, 421
Pillows
Barcelona, 103 n305
description of, 391
foreign names for, 32 n99
Honiton, 415 n1156
Pillow guipure, 116
------ lace (bobbin lace)
Austrian, 268
bobbin lace, so called 32
Ceylon, of, 88
foreign names for, 32 n98
France, extension of industry in (seventeenth century), 159;
trade crisis (1818), 187;
fabric at Château de Madrid, 210 n584;
gold lace of Paris, 212;
first mentioned in French pattern-books, 494
Genoese, 74
Germany, introduction into, 260
Madeira, at, 107
Mechlin. _See that title_
method of making, 32-33
origin of, 29, 109
Peniche, at, 107
Russian, 283 and n751
Spanish, 103 n305
Valenciennes. _See that title_
------ net, 150
------ -beres, 16 and n56
Pin net machine, 448
Pinheiro, Dona Maria Bordallo, letter from, quoted, 107 n315
Pins for lace-making, 391 and n1126;
State papers concerning, 294 n794
Pinwork lace, 294 n794
Piper Countess Elizabeth, 280
Pisa, lace work of industrial school at, 81 n248
Pitt, French fashions excluded by, 170
Pizzo, 74
Plaited laces, 392
Platteuse, work of, 122
Plissés à la vieille, 127
Pluymers, Jean, 158 n460
Point (stitch), kinds of, 32