his grave-clothes, 14, 15, 366
Durie, Lord, engraving of, 423
Dussen, B. v. d., cited, 133 and n378
Duthie, Mlle., 181
Duval, M., 224
Dysart, Countess of, 344 n991
"Each," 391
_Eagle_ (French vessel), seizure of, 101
Earnings and wages of lace-workers
Alençon, 192
Arras (1788), 239;
(1851), 240
Bedfordshire, 377
blonde-workers, 225
Denmark (1848), 277 n741
Devonshire, 414, 416 n1168;
Honiton, 407 and n1153
Dorsetshire, 398
Flemish thread-spinners', 119
France, average (1851), 257 n688;
their savings, 159 n464
Genoa, 77, 78
Mechlin, 127
Mirecourt, 252 n675, 253
Normandy, 223, 228 n614
Northamptonshire (Spratton), 390
Scotland, 434
Spain, 102
Switzerland, 270
Val, 233, 234 n627
Vélay, 244
Ypres Valenciennes, 131 n373
Eaton, John, 336
------, Prestwick, letters from, cited, 98 n282
Ecclesiastical lace
Athenian--for Jewish Church, 86
Burano school allowed to copy, 62
decline of, since the Reformation, 331
Greek, 83
Ionian, 86
Italian, 47 and n154
Katherine of Aragon's work of, 376 and n1108
Maltese, 88
Scotch, 418, 419
Spanish, 90, 92
washing of, 373 n1101
Ecouen lace, 210 n589
Eden, Mrs., 443
Edgithe, Queen, 6
Edict of Nantes, Revocation of
effect on lace industry (France and other countries), 192, 212, 254,
258
settlement of fugitives in Germany, 264-265
Edinburgh Society for Encouraging the Arts and Manufactures of Scotland,
262, 263, 429, 430 and nn
Edward the Elder, daughters of, 6
Edward III.
pins for his daughter's trousseau, 294 n794
thread veils of time of, 285.
Edward IV.
Irish smock of, 436
wardrobe accounts of, quoted, 288
Edward VI., funeral lace of, 293
Effingham, Dowager Lady, 349
----------, Earl of, 364
Egenolffs, C., 470
Egyptians (Ancient), embroidery of, 1
Ekenmark, cited, 280 n748
Elberfeld, 265
Eleanor of Austria, 262 n701
Elgin marbles, designs in, 3
Elizabeth, Princess (wife of Elector Palatine), 71, 325
---------- of Austria (Elisabetta Borbona d'Austria), 495
---------- of Bohemia, 294 n794
---------- of Denmark, 272
----------, Queen
anecdote referring to, 38, 297
cost of lace for revels at court of, 308 n871
cut-work of, 303-305
false hair of, 314 and n894, n895
foreign tastes of, 305, 307, 310
Irish at court of, 435
laces of, 299-300;
lace made from human hair, 313;
Genoa and Spanish lace, 307;
parchment lace, 298;
cost of lace furnished to, 308
New Year's gifts to, 294 n791, 295, 303 n833, 304 n834, n835, n836,
n837, 307 and n862, 308 n867, n870, 310 n875, n876
old clothes of, presented to Anne of Denmark, 320
presents to, from Mary Stuart, 420 and n1184;
from the Baroness Aletti, 421 n1187
ruffs of, 310-313;
316 n901
skill of, in needlework, 500
smock made by, 10 and n32;
smocks of, 308, 408
stocking-frame inventor discouraged by, 448 n1240
wardrobe accounts of, cited, 72;
quoted, 92, 98 n282, 297 and n811, 299 and n814, n815, n816, n817,
300-301 and n820, n821, n824, n826, 302 and n827, 304 n834, n838, 307
and n861, n865, 309 n873, 311 n880, 312 n882, 314 n895, 372 n1098
----------, reign of
christening shirts and bearing cloths of, 308-309
habits of people in, 310 n877
importation of pins (annual) in, 294 n794
lace, use of, in, 300
laced handkerchiefs of, 310 and n874
measures against luxury of the people, 301
sumptuary laws, 306 and n855
value of lace and thread imported (1559 and 1568), 306 and n859
Venice lace of, 48 and n154
---------- of York, Queen, 9 n30, 48, 289
Elliott, Julian, 328
Embroider, Italian and Spanish term for, 45 and n147
Embroidery
Anglo-Saxon, 5-7
Babylonian, Sidonian and Phrygian, 3 and n13
drawn-thread work, 25
ecclesiastical, 4-7.
Egyptian, 1
Greek, 2, 3 and n8
Jewish, 2
Spanish, 103
Embroidered lace, Genoese, 77
Engageantes, 168
Enghien lace, 134
"Engines" for lace-making, 324 n935
England (_for_ counties, towns, etc., _see their titles_)
French fashions, method of obtaining, 170
frugality of nation, in Queen Elizabeth's reign, 310 n877
lace in
account of (_See also_ names of sovereigns), 285 _et seq._
date of establishment of industry, 286-288;
origin of, 111;
centres of, before 1665, 44 n144;
impossibility of competing with Belgium, 138
earliest mention of, 285
Flanders, trade with (1768), 115;
Flemish lace. _See_ that title
foreign, prohibited, 125, 289-290, 341, 347;
imported, 245, 251, 288, 291
smuggling of. _See that title_
Protestant refugees in, trades of, 297-298
Reformation, decline of ecclesiastical lace since, 331
sumptuary laws. _See that title_
Vinciolo published in, 482
Engrêlure, 31, 168 n496
Entoilage, 30, 250
Épinal, 251
Equipage de bain, 168
Eric XIV. (Sweden), 307
Ericksholm, 280
---------- Castle, 279
Erikson, Gustaf, 280
Erzgebirge lace, 263
Essex, Earl of, 401
Este, Madame Anne Belloris, d', 61
---- family, archives of, cited, 46
Etrepagny lace, 213 n589
Eu lace, 183 n539, 218, 221-222
Eugénie, Empress, 198
Evans, Mrs., 308 n869
Evelyn, quoted, 13, 43, 168 n496, 338, 339;
cited, 57
Exeter, Bishop of, 316
------, Elizabeth, Duchess of, 285 n755
Exhibitions
Chicago World's Fair
Honiton lace at, 416 n1169
Italian lace at, 46 n150
Colonial and Indian Exhibition (1886),
Cyprian lace at, 82
Industry, 1808, point d'Argentan at, 208
(1851), Alençon flounce at, 197-198;
lace industry developed since, 392
(1855) (Paris)
Alençon point dress at, 198
equipage of King of Rome at, 196
needle-point dress at, 245
(1859) (French). Report--cost of Brussels lace, 119 n339
(1862) (International)
Spanish exhibits at, 103-104
threads, comparative fineness of, 119 n339
Wadstena lace at, 280
1867 (Paris)
Alençon point dress at, 200
Burano laces at, 58
Honiton lace at, 410
macramé shown at, 79
Mechlin lace at, 125
oyah at, 87
point gaze at, 123
Valenciennes lace at, 131 and n373
1874 (International)
Austrian lace at, 268
Brussels lappet at, 411
Russian towels at, 283
Valenciennes lace at, 131
1889, point d' Alençon at, 201
1900 (Paris), 268
Eyesight, effect of lace-making on, 112 n324
Fairfax, Sir Thomas, 333
Fairs, 43 and n136, n137, n140, 326 n945
Falbala, 167 and n492
Falcon, T., 246
Fallals, 350 and n1043
Falling bands, 321 n928, 322, 326, 327, 334, 336
Fambri, Signor, 61
"Fameuse poupée," 170
Fanciulle, 462
Fanshaw, Lady, quoted, 333
Farbeck, John, 300
Favier-Duboulay, correspondence of, with Colbert, re lace industry at
Alençon, 155 and n454, 189
Feather-stitch, 8
Fécamp lace, 218
Félibien, D. M., quoted, 141 n402
Félice, G. de, quoted, 150 n437
Félin Narciso, quoted, 91, 99
Felkin, Mr., cited, 447
Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, 92, 93, 96
Feret quoted, 219 and n604
Ferguson, Mr., cited, 250 and n665
Fernandez, Don Manuel, 102
Ferrara
archives of, quoted, 46 and n150
Venetian lace-worker at, 78 n243
Fielding quoted, 354 n1053
Filet brodé à reprises, 20
Fillesae, Marie, 157 n458
Fillings, 31
Filo di freta (_See also_ Aloe thread), 79 n245
Firenzuola cited, 46 n152, 47, 57 n172;
quoted, 66 and n207
Fisher, Bishop, 292
Fitz-Geoffrey (Geffery), Henry, quoted, 317 n908, 332
Flanders
emigration of lace-makers from, preventive legislation, 111-112;
emigrants in London, 373;
in Bedfordshire and Buckinghamshire, 375 and n1105;
in Devonshire, 399 and nn, 400 n1140;
expelled from England (1572), 306
lace. _See_ Flemish lace.
lace school in, description of, 114-115
Spanish imports of dentelles d'Angleterre from, 98
thread imported from, complaint regarding, 324 n935
water-glass reflectors used in, 390 n1125
--------, East, lace of, 133-134
--------, West
lace workers of, 133 and n378
Valenciennes lace of. _See_ Valenciennes Flax
age of, 259 n697
cotton substituted for, 187
spinning of, in damp cellars, 405
Fleming, Lady, 10
Flemish lace. (_See also_ Belgium _and_ Brabant)
arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365
Barcelona lace imitated from, 91, 99
black lace exported, 117 n330
cargo of smuggling vessel (1678), 117
coffin containing, 61
Danish imitation of, 275
England
bribes for Jacobites in, 351 n1045
exportation to, prohibited, 125, 341
fashionable in, 318, 325, 327, 340
imitations in, 384, 404;
Honiton reproductions, 411, 416
trade with (1768), 115
France, popularity in (Louis XIV.), 150;
trade (seventeenth century), annual value of, in passemens, 209 n583;
prohibited, 142
importance of industry of, 111
Liège, 136-137
"Malines," a term for, 125
origin of, 109
types of, 115-116
white work, 294 and n791
Flemish names in Colyton (Devon), 403 n1145
Fleurens, 270
Fleury, Cardinal, quoted, 176
Florence
gold lace from, Spanish exclusion of, 92
Greek lace made at, 85
industrial schools in, lace work of, 81 n248
lace industry of, account of, 66-68;
"fine dantelle de," 27
Le Puy, imports from, 245 n657
Florentine merchants, allowed to trade in England (circ. 1546), 291
Florini, M., 488
_Flying Postman_ advertisement in, 129
"Flys," 416 n1170
Foillet, J., 489, 490
Fonneuse, work of, 122
Fontange (Commode)
"cock" the Scotch term for, 423
description of, 168 n486, 342, 350 n1043
extinction of mode, 166, 348 and n1035
story of, 164
Fontana, Lavinia, lace in picture by, 47 n153
Fontenay, lace, 212 n589
Fontenelle le Liqueur, 229 and n615
Fonthill, sale of lace at, 162 n475
Foote, quoted, 171 n503
Footing, 31, 168 n496
Forbes, Miss Betsey, 432 n1209
Forçade, M. de la, cited, 340 n1004
Force, P. de la, cited, 254 and n682
Foresto, I., 471
Fortunato, P. A., 500
Foskewe, Sir John, 22
_Four P's, The_, cited, 43 n139
Fournier, quoted, 209 n583
"Fourpenny Spot," 372 n1095
Fowke, Mr., cited, 6 and n23
Fowler, Mrs., lace school of, 416 and n1169
Fozzi, P. P., 491
France. _For_ districts, towns, etc., _see their titles_
bobbin net introduced into, 187
customs of French ladies, 168-170
états Généraux (1789), action of, regarding lace, 183
extravagant cost of lace ornaments (Louis XIV.), 153
Fairs in, 43 n136
Fashions
fashion dolls, 170 and n500, n501
Italian influence on, 139 and n393
Louis XIV., under, 167
first appearance of lace in, 139 n393
First Empire
Brussels lace at court of, 123
lace industry under, 184
morning costume under, 185
point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 and n566
Florentine lace used in (1545), 67
imports of lace from, to England, forbidden by Queen Anne, 347
Italian guipures exported to, 75
Italy, relations with (16th century), 476
lace industry in. _See_ French lace industry
lace-makers from, brought to teach Scotch girls, 428
ladies, addiction of, to needlework, 9, 24;
as lace-makers, 163
men as embroiderers in, 13
point d'Espagne consumed in, 90;
made in, 100
points de Venise from, 54
Quintain named from Brittany town, 19
lace industry improved by, 383
refugees from, to Channel Islands, 372 n1098;
to England, 324 n935
Revolution in, effect of, on lace trade, 183 and n539, 223, 249, 368,
408
Second Empire, point d'Alençon patterns under, 199
Spanish imports of lace from, 101
sumptuary laws in, 138 and n354, n355, 147 and n429, 149, 154 and n451
tariff (1664), Liège lace mentioned in, 137
war with, effect of, on English lace industry, 386, 387
yellow starch, attitude towards, 318 and n909
France and Navarre, Queen of, pattern book dedicated to, 493
Franceschi, Francesco di, 475, 484
Francis I.
Aurillac lace of, 247
pattern book dedicated to, 461
Frankfort-on-the-Maine
fair at, 43 n136, 326 n945
pattern book published at, 267
Frano, G., 477
Frederick, Prince of Wales, 354
---------- IV., 274
---------- William of Brandenburg, 264
French lace industry
centres of, before 1665, 44 n144
cheap lace, 187 and n546
Colbert's development
establishment and history of the company (1668-1675), 157-158
establishment of point d'Alençon, 155-157
immigration of Venetian workers, 159 n465
principal centres, 159 n464
pupils sent to Venice, 154-155 and n454
First Empire, under, 184
foreign trade
Bruges, annual value of, with, 241;
with Flanders, 209 n583;
Valenciennes trade with Belgium, 132 n376
Germany, with, 265
prohibition of, with Flanders, 142
rivalry of Holland in, 258
smuggling from Belgium, 116;
from Switzerland, 270
statistics regarding (18th century), 160 n466
number of lace-makers in (present day), 188;
table of (1851), 257 n688
Paris lace-workers, confirmation of statutes of, 150 n437
pattern books, 144 and n420, n421, n422, n423
patterns imitated in Denmark, 275
pillow lace manufacture, extension of (17th century), 159
point d'Espagne, 100
Protestants prohibited from selling lace, 150 n437
varieties of lace made in (1665), 33-35
width of lace restricted, 152-153
Freyburg, 268
Freytag, G., quoted, 265 n718
Friesland hens, ladies likened to, 342
Frondeurs, extravagance of, 150
Froschover, Christopher, pattern book of, 271
Fugio lace, 74
Fuller, quoted, 378, 401
Furnesse, Sir Henry, 344, 347
Fuseaux, dentelle à, 32 n98
Gabrielle de Bourbon, 8 n28
----------, Madame, 49, 142, 143 and n413, n414, n415
Gaguef lace, 281
_Gan, Le_, quoted, 24
Gantes, Mlles., 250
Garden, Lord, quoted, 119
Garnica, John de, 113 n325
Garnier, Joseph, cited, 255 n685
Garnitures de lit, 174 and n519, n520
Garters
Queen Elizabeth's cost per pair, 301
trimmed with point, 145
Gaston, Duke of Orleans, 8 n27
Gaudronnées collerettes, 17
Geneva, rivalry of, with Mirecourt, 252
Genoa
Albergo de' Poveri, macramé made at, 79
collars of, 74
earnings of lace-workers, 77, 78
embroidered lace of, 77;
embroidered tulle, 229
gold work of, 47, 72
guipures of, 74
lace of
Cardinal Mazarin's purchase of, 150, 151
Honiton reproduction of, 411
point de Gênes, 41, 42, 72, 73 and n230, 74
Queen Elizabeth's, 307 and n865
lace trade in, chiefly pillow, 47, 74;
decline of, 74
silk work of, 72
sumptuary laws in, 73
Tessada, Signore, old lace of, 72 n225
Genoa, Duchess of, 78 n244
Gentili family, bridal veil made for, 78
Geometrical patterns
cuffs of (Queen Mary's), 113
Cretan, 86
Greek lace, 20, 85
ruffs of, 316
Swedish, 25
Vecellio's, 111
Vinciolo's, 18
George I.
Mechlin cravat of, 126 and n361
period of, 351-353
wardrobe account of, 240 and n645
------ II., period of, 354-357
------ III.
English manufactures protected by, 359, 363 and n1068, 381
period of, 363-370
sponsor to children of aristocracy, 352 n1046
------ IV., wardrobe of, 364 n1073
Geharts, C., 501
Germany
fairs in, 43 n136, n140
guipures imported into, 36
lace imported into, 245, 251, 254
lace industry
centres of, before 1665, 44 n144
export trade with France, 265
North and South
Edict of Nantes Revocation--emigration of fugitives into, 264-265
religion of lace-workers, 264
sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, 264
Nuremberg (_See that title_)
origin of, 111
pattern-books, 266-268
Saxony (_see that title_)
luxury, outbreak of, 265-266
Geslin, Simon, 193
_Gespeldewerkte kant_, 32 n98
Ghent lace
Brussels lace compared with, 118
manufacture of, 133-134
trade replaced by cotton-weaving, 134
Valenciennes made at Ghent, character of, 231 n624
Ghisolieri, La Signora Silveria Rossi, 484
Gibbons, Grinling, lace carvings of, 367 and n1088
Gibson, Sir Alexander, engraving of, 423
------, Miss Mary, 438
Gigliucci, Countess, fragment of drawn work possessed by, 69
Gilbert, Madame, 155 and n455, 156, 157 and n458
Gimp
Brussels lace, in, 406
method of making, 33
silk, at Ragusa, 84
Gioiello, 486
Giraldini, Catherina, 500
Gisors lace industry, 209, 213 n589, 215
Glairo, Mlle. U., 235
Glandore, Lord, 436
Glen, Jean de, 136, 482, 488 and n1338
----, Miss, 431 n1209
Gloucester, Duchess of, lace collection of, 369
Gloves, laced, 337 and n991
Goats' hair lace, 245
Godard, Jean, quoted, 24, 146 n425
Goderonné, term explained, 17 n57
Godric, 6
Gohory, Anne, 183 n540
Golbertain (Colbertine), 339 n996
Golconda, King of, 322 n928, 329 and n958
Gold lace (_See also_ Aurillac lace)
Arras, of, 240
England, imported to
fifteenth-sixteenth centuries, 288, 289, 307
monopoly in, under James I., 318
prohibited, by Queen Anne, 349;
by George II., 355 n1057;
confiscation and burning of, 359
France, popularity in, 139, 141, 146, 154;
of Paris, 211-212
Genoa, wearing prohibited in, 73
Hamburg, of, 264
Holland, introduction into, 259
India, imported into, 322 n928, 329 and n958
Ireland, importation to, prohibited, 439
Jewish manufacture of, 92
Lyons, of, 256
Ragusa, at, 84
Russia, of, 283
Scotland, wearing in, prohibited, 422
Sicily, of, 80
Spain, of, 92, 100-102, 248
Sweden, of, 280
Zurich, of, 271
---- guipure work, Swedish, 277-278
---- purles, 330
---- thread
duties on, leased to Dame Villiers, 328
Italian (fourteenth century), 72
---- wire, protest by handspinners of, 335
Golden Horn, 273
Goldoni, cited, 57 n192
Goldsmith, quoted, 70 n218
Gomberdière, Marquis de la, quoted, 209 and n582
Gonzales, Don Manuel, cited, 380 and n1120, 403 n1146
Gooding, James, 413, 414
Gorget (whisk), 334
Gormont, 464
Goudronné, term explained, 17 n57
Gozo, Maltese lace made at, 88
Grafton, Duchess of, 344 n1021, 349 n1037
Gramite, 46 n150
Grammont lace, 134
Granada, lace alb in cathedral of, 92, 93
Granson, battle of, 111
Grave-clothes
Duke of Alva's, 366 n1085
Ionian lace sold from, 86
lace decorations of, 365-367
St. Cuthbert's, 14, 15, 366
Gravelle, attempt to establish fabric by, 207
Great Marlow
bone lace trade of, 319
lace school at, 378
Great Wardrobe Accounts, where kept, 299 n816
Greek lace. (_See also_ Cyprus _and_ Ragusa)
Devonshire imitation of, 414 n1165
Italian cut-work so called, 20
Milan point, 65
reticella so called, 50, 85
Greeks (ancient), embroidery of, 2, 3 and n8
Green, quoted, 296
------ silk lace, 291 n783
Greene, Mrs., quoted, 321 n926
Gremial, 70 n217
Grey, Lady Jane, anecdote of, 38, 297
Grillé, 30 n89
Gripsholm, portrait of Queen Elizabeth at, 307
Gropari (punto a gropo), 52
Gros point de Venise. _See_ Point de Venise, rose point
---- René, 32
Groslay lace, 210, 213 n589
Ground
absent in certain laces, 31
kinds of, 30
round, 39
Gruner, Mr., cited, 476 n1316, 487 n1335, 489
Gruuthus mansion, collection at, 138
Gueuse, 33, 34, 41, 42
Guibray fair, 43 n136
Guipure
Flemish, 123, 133
Genoese, 74
Honiton (modern), 409, 410
Maltese, 88
method of making, materials, uses, 35-40
modern, 39, 40
parchment lace probably English term for, 37-38
point de Venise, 49
tape, 39, 75
Turkish, 87
Gunning, Miss (Duchess of Hamilton), 425 n1199, 428, 429
Gurbert, cited, 219 n602
Gustavus Adolphus, 282
Gustaf Vasa, 279, 280
Guyard, Sieur Mathieu, 204-205
Guyenne, annual consumption of Le Puy lace in, 245 n657
Haag, cited, 265 n714, 269 n725
Haarlem thread, 216 n595, 223 n608, 245, 259 and n695, n697
Hailstone, Mrs., 23
Hainault, laces, 134 _et seq._;
lace flowers, 121
Hair
false, of Queen Elizabeth's time, 314 and nn
fashion of wearing, 341
lace made from, 313;
horse-hair used in Alençon, 194;
goats'-hair and rabbits'-hair lace, 245
wigs, 336, 349
Hal, flax grown at, 118
Haliwell, quoted, 297 n809
Halle lace, 265
Hamburg point, 264
Hamilton, Anne, Duchess of (Miss Gunning), 425 n1199, 428, 429
--------, Lady Jane, 123 n351
Hamilton lace, 430
-------- net-work (modern), 434 n1216
Hamlet on the French stage, 186
Hammond, machine-net invented by, 447
Hand, Mrs., 445
Handkerchiefs, laced, 310 and n874, 337
Hangkow, lace made in, 89
Hanmer, Sir Thomas, 349 n1037
Hanover fabrics, 265
Hanslope lace industry, 380 n1119
Harefield church, sculptured lace on effigy in, 321 n927
Harent, Ignace, 230
Harrison, Major, rich dress of, 333
Hartruide, Madame, 279
Hartshorne, Albert, cited, 321 n927
Hatfield, old needlework at, 11
Hathaway family, embroidered bed linen of, 325 n941
Hauslaub, General von, 263
Havre lace, 183 n539, 217 n595, 218;
number of lace-makers (1692), 216, 218
Hay, Lord, 64
Hayman, Mrs., 410
Head, R. E., quoted, 391 n1127
Headdresses (_See also_ Fontange)
Louis XIV. styles, 164-166
mignonette lace used for, 35
prices of "heads," 348
Roman, 165 n486
"Heller," 391
Helmin, Fr. Margaretha, 502
Henderson, Anne, 430
Heneage, George, 346
Henrietta Maria
inventory of, cited, 29 and n87, 146 n426
present from, to Anne of Austria, 330 and n961
Henry II. (England), 37, 202 and n569
-------- (France), introduces lace ruff, 139, 140 and n393, 262 n701
Henry III. (England), 37, 43;
portrait in Pattern Book, 480
---------- (France), 140 and n396, 141
Henry IV. (France)
fashion dolls sent by, to Marie de Médicis, 170 n501
Isle of Paris industry, probable connection with, 210
measures of, against luxury of dress, 141-142 and n405
shirt worn by, when assassinated, 142-143 and n412
------ VI., laces in fashion in time of, 286 and n761
------ VII., lace of time of, 288, 289 and n772
------ VIII.
Act for the true making of pins, 294 n794
foreign lace allowed in England by, 67, 291
inventory of, cited, 372 n1098;
quoted, 104
lace of, 64, 289, 291-292 and n772
sumptuary laws of, 436 and n1220
wardrobe account of, quoted, 289 and n768, n769
------, Prince (1607), 296 n798
Herault, Chancellor, 143 and n416
Herbert, Miss, 416
Herbouville, cited, 131 n371
Herculaneum, drawn wire lace found at, 72
Hergosse, M. de, 177 n525
Hesse, Landgrave, French fugitives received by, 265 and n711
Hieronimo, Fra., 469
High Wycombe, lace industry of, 380
Hippisley, Sir John Cox, quoted, 329;
veil bequeathed to, 421
Hispano-Moresque point de Gênes frisé, 74
Hoche, General, 13
Hoffmann, Hans, 469
Holcroft, Mr., 169 n499
Hölesom, 280
Holidays in Roman Catholic countries, 102 n302
Holland
Dutch extravagance in lace, 260
Haarlem thread, advantage of, to, 259 and n695, n697
lace imported into, 251, 254
lace industry in, 258-260 and n689
rivalry with French lace trade, 258
Hollie work, 325 and n939
Hollow lace, 299 and n816
Holme, Randle, cited, 31, 344;
quoted, 251, 296 n799, 339
Holstein, daughter of Duke John of, 275
Holyrood Palace, lace trimmed basket in, 420
Honfleur lace, 183 n539, 218
Honiton, lace school at, 414
-------- lace
account of, 399-411
bobbins and pillows used in, 415 n1166
Bruges lace a rival to, 133
guipure, 40
Indian contrasted with, 89
Japanese imitations of, 417
point duchesse compared with, 123
-------- lace-makers, skill of, 417 n1171
Hope, Sir Thomas, portrait of, 423
Horsehair used in making Alençon, 194
Hôtel Rambouillet, dressed dolls of, 170
Hove, Callys de, 306
Howel's Letters, quoted, 317 n906
Hubert, Soeur, cited, 220 n606
Hugo, Victor, quoted, 135, 164;
cited, 136 n384
Humphrey, Thomas, 401
Hungarian lace, 268
Hungerford, Sir Edward, 395
Hunt, Susanna, 438
Hurdle, Mary, 395
Hutchins, quoted, 396 n1133
Hutchinson, Colonel, 333
----------, Mrs., Memoirs of, cited, 12
Hutton, Sir Timothy, 71
Iberian lace, 104
Ile de France. _See_ Isle de France
India
lace exported to, 241, 251, 253, 322 n928, 329 and n958
pillow-laces of, 88 and n263, 89
India Museum, pillow laces in, 89
Indian muslin, 179-180
------ work of Denmark, 275
Innishmacsaint, 446
Innocent IV., Pope, 7
Inquisition, lace-trimmed banner of, 100
Insertion, 388
Ionian Isles
lace manufacture of, 85
lace from tombs of, 365
Ipsden, Vicar of, MS. in possession of, 286 n761
Ireland
Bath and Shirley School, 440
club against "foreign fopperies," 438
Dublin Society, the, 429, 437, 439
lace industry in, 436-446;
Maltese guipures made in, 88;
Irish point, 443 and n1233
prize offered by, for Dresden point, 262
sumptuary laws in, 435, 436 and n1220
yellow dye of, 307, 435, 436
Iron Mask, 166 n490
Isabella, Infanta, 113
--------, Princess (Sweden), 279 n746
"Isabelle" tint, 121
Ischia lace, 71, 263 and n705
Isle de France
lace industry in
centres of (17th century), 209 and n582, 210
Chantilly, 212-215
cheap laces, 210
Dumont's fabric, 211
Huguenots engaged in, 209
Spanish imports of lace from, 99
Israel, J., 469
Italians, dishonesty of, in lace trade (Henry VII.'s time), 48, 67, 288
Italy (_For_ towns, etc., _see their titles_)
France, relations with, 16th century, 476
invention of lace claimed by, 109;
of point lace, 45
lace imported by, 245, 251 n670
lace of (_See also_ Point _and_ Punto)
centres of manufacture before 1665, 44 n144
England, fashionable in, 318;
imitated in, 416 n1169, 417
Greek lace manufacture, centres of, 85
Points in relief of, counterfeits of, 105
Spanish point attributed to, 93, 97
lace schools of, 81 n249
revolutions in, lace seized during, 51 and n175
silk gimp specimens from, 85
Swiss lace from, origin of, 269
white thread made in, 49 n165
Jabot, 172
Jacobites, 425, 426