Austria
Albert Archduke, 113 n326
Anne of. _See_ Anne
lace of, 268
Auto-da-fè, lace worn at, 100
Auvergne
ancient names preserved in, 246 n658
lace exhibited (1867), 246
Maltese guipures made in, 88
mignonette made in (1665), 35
number of lace-makers in (1851), 257 n688
petition of lace-makers in (1767), 64
thread used in, 245
--------, Mgr. de la Tour d', 183
Auvray, quoted, 224 n611
Avaux, M. le Comte d', 155
Avrillion, Mlle., 177 n526;
cited, 184 n541
Axmouth, lace-workers of, 409 n1157
Aylesbury, lace industry of, 378, 379
Baby lace, 385
Babylon, embroidery of, 3
Backhouse, James, 300
Bacon, Lord, 318
Baden, Princess of, 178
Bailey's Dictionary, quoted, 303 n830
Bailleul, 241 and n647, 257 n688
Baillie, James, 432
Baker, Robert, 437
Baldachino in Italian lace, 66
"Ballad of Hardyknute" quoted, 24
Bamberg, collection of German Point at, 267
Bampton, Mr., 343
Bands
Falling. _See_ Falling Bands
Lawyers', 337
Bannatyne, James, 422
Baptism ceremony, excess of lace at, 352 n1046
Barante, M. de, cited, 111
Barbara, Princess of Portugal (1729), 105
Barbes, 168 n496, 180 and n533
------ pleines, 234 and n627, n628
Barcelona,
lace industry of, 91, 101 and n294, 103 n305
pillows used at, 103 n305
silk of, used in Maltese lace-making, 88;
used for blondes, 103
Bard, William, 403
Barleycorn net, 448
Barry, Madame Du. _See_ du Barry
Bars, Genoese lace joined by, 74, 75 n236
Baseus, N., 470
Basing, lace purchased at, by Anne of Denmark, 320
Basset, Anne, 290
------, Mary, 291
Bassompierre, 142
Bath and West of England Society, 410 and n1159
Bath Brussels lace, 405
Baucher, Canon, 226
Bauta, 57 and n193
Bavari, 55
Bavaria, Queen of, 421
Bavière, Isabeau de, 139 n393
Bay, Rudolf, 274
Bayeux,
black lace of, 214, 226
Chantilly shawls made at, 215
lace industry, establishment of, 226;
Lefébure's development of, 228;
number of lace-makers engaged in, 228 n614
mignonette made at (1665), 35 n109
point d'Alençon of, 200
point de Marli of, 225 and n613
point de raccroc of, 120
Spanish silk laces contrasted with those of, 103
Tapestry, 6
Bayman, Mrs., 107
Bayonne, linen work of (1679), 79 n248
Beale, Mrs., thefts from, 349
Bearing cloths, 309 and n871
Beau Nash on aprons, 356
Beaucaire, fair at, 43 n136
Beaufort, Duchesse of, edicts ignored by, 142;
extracts from inventory of, 143 and n413, n414, n415.
Beauharnais, Eugène, 123 n351
Beaumont and Fletcher, quoted, 292 n788, 296 and n805, 315 and n896, 324,
363 n1070, 365
Beauregard, 248 and n664
Becket, Thomas à, 202 and n569
Beckford, quoted, 90, 98 n280
Beckmann, quoted, 92 n267
Bedford, number of lace-makers in, 377
--------, Lady, 320
--------, Duke of, 360
--------, Lord, 348
Bedfordshire lace, 88, 375-377, 385
Beds, lace trimmings for, 27 n84, 98 and n280
Beer (Devon), lace-workers at, 409 and n1157, 416 n1169, 417 and n1171
Beggars' lace, 34
Béguinage, 126, 130, 133
"Bèle, Prerie," 144
Belev lace, 283
Belgium (See also Flanders and Brabant)
lace industry (_See also_ Antwerp, Brussels etc.)
application exported to France, annual value of, 252
centres of, before 1665, 44 n144
development of, 138
female education in, 112-113
guipures made by, 410
importance of, 112 and n324
numbers employed in (1861), 112
pillow lace. _See_ Valenciennes
Valenciennes industry transferred to, 232
lace schools in, 113-115
linens and flax of, 405-407
pedlar lace-sellers in, 44 and n143
smuggling lace of, into France, 116
thread, fineness of, 119 n339
weaving of lace in fourteenth century in, 109
Bell, Mrs., old lace of, 384
Bellière, M. de la, 130 and n368
Bellini, lace in picture by, 47
Ben, Miss Mary, 398
Beni Hassan, figures at, 1
Beresford, Lord John George, 443
Berkeley, Bishop, quoted, 371 n1092
Berlin, number of lace fabrics in (_circ._ 1685), 264
Bernhardi, N. R., cited, 497 n1359
Berry lace industry, 256
Berthe (mother of Charlemagne), 5
Bertin, Mlle., 181
Bertini, Cav., 462 n1270
Bess of Hardwick, 11
Béziers, Bishop of, 154, 155
Bible printed by Quentell, 460
Bidney, Miss Jane, 409
Bigazzi, M., 468 n1293, 471 n1300
Billament lace, 48 and n159, 299 and n817
Binche, royal edict concerning, 135 and n381
------ lace, 118, 135 and n383, 136, 212
Bindoni, G. A., 471
Bingham, Lady, 439
Bisette (bizette), 33 and n102, 210, 256
Bishops, denouncement of ruffs by, 316-317;
ruffs worn by, 318
Black lace
Caen fabric, 225
Caen, Bayeux and Chantilly, similarity of fabrics of, 226
Calvados, 223
Chantilly fabric, 212-215 and n584, 226
East Flanders fabric, 134
England, imported to, from Low Countries, 117 n330;
fashion introduced into, 153 n444;
Lille fabric popular in, 237
fond d'Alençon, ground, 214
France, fashion introduced into, 153-154
Le Puy fabric, 245
Liège fabric, 137 n391
Lille fabric, 236, 237
loom-made, 432 n1212
masks of, 177
Saxony fabric, 263
Turin, at court of, 153 n445
Blanche of Lancaster, 285 n755
Blandford, lace industry of, 344, 396 and nn, 397 n1134
Blessington, Countess of, lace collection of, 369
Blois, Mlle. de, 161-162 and n472
Blonde de fil, 34 and n108, 237
Blonde-workers, wages of, 225
Blondes
Almagro, at, 102 n297
Barcelona silk used for, 103
Caen, of, 224
Catalonian, 102
England, introduction of manufacture into, in George II.'s time, 356;
made at Sherborne, 397
French court, at, 182
Genoese manufacture of, 75
Le Puy, of, 245
Spanish, 103 n305
Vélay, of, 244
white, 214
Bobbin lace (_See also_ Pillow lace)
Belgian, 123
bobbins used for, 296 n798
pillow lace a term for, 32
point duchesse, 123
royal inventories, mentioned in, 295 n797
value of, per oz. (Queen Elizabeth's time), 295 n797
------ net
English machine-made, 447-450
France, first made in, 187
Bobbins
description of, 32, 33, 295 n795, 391 and n1127
Honiton, at, 415 n1166
long, used for bobbin lace, 296 n798
materials used for, 32, 74 n235
number of, 33 n101
Peniche, at, 106 n314
Bock, Dr., collection of, 23 and n74, 24
Boenen, G., 311
Bohemia, modern lace of, 262
Boileau, quoted, 159
Boislaunay, Epoux Malbiche de, 206
_Boke of Curtasye_, quoted, 290
Bolbec lace, 218
Bolingbroke, Lord, 351
Bologna, lace-making at, 68, 81 n248
Bonald, Cardinal de, 183
Bone, bobbins made of, 74 n235
---- lace
bobbin lace distinguished from, 296 n798
explanation of term, 400
---- pins (_See also_ Bobbins), 295 n795
Bone-work, why so called, 294
Bonzy, Monseigneur de, 154-155
Books, parchment patterns on covers of, 77
Boot tops, 145, 150
Bordeaux fair, 43 n136
Borlase, Sir Henry, 378.
Bosse, Abraham, engravings by, 146, 147, 149
Bottles used as light reflectors, 390 and n1125
Boufflers, Governor, 236.
Bourbon, Catherine de, 144, 482, 494
--------, Duchesse de, extracts from the inventory of, 120 n344, 125
n354, 128 n364, 162 n475, 168 n496, 169 n497, 174 n519, 195 n560
Bourg-Argental, 224
Bourges, 5, 256
--------, Archbishop of, 118 and n336
Bourgogne, Duc de, 99 n283
Bowdon, Miss, 417
Bowen, Emanuel, quoted, 405
Bowes, Sir Robert, 38, 298
Bowie, J., 430 n1207
Bowll, William, 308.
Boys as lace-makers, 263, 377, 413, 414
Brabant (_See also_ Belgium)
lace-workers from, settled at Tönder, 274
point de Sedan, attributed to, 254
Brabant lace. _See_ Brussels, Mechlin, etc.
Braid, lace a term used for, 26
------ lace (Devonshire), 414 n1156
------ and cord lace, 446.
Braidwork, in imitation of Spanish point, 410 and n1159
Branscombe, lace-workers of, 409 n1138
Brazil, lace of, 108.
Brazza, Contessa di, cited, 71 n222, 75 n237, 78 n244;
quoted, 75 n236;
lace school under direction of, 81 n248
Bremen, refusal of, to receive strangers, 264
Brennar, Mr., 442 n1232
Brereton, Miss Elinor, 438
Bretagne, 229 and n617
Bretschneider, A., 496
Briattes, Jean-Ph., 225 n613
Bribes of lace, 351 n1045
Bridal veils, 78
Bride ground. _See_ Argentan ground.
------ lace, 302 and n829
Brides
definition of, 31 and n91
Milanese lace, in, 75 n237
Spanish point, in, 58
thread guipures, in, 39, 40
_vrai réseau_ the successor of, 406
Bridgewater Baptist Church, manifesto of, 403 and n1144
"Britannia Languens" (1680), cited, 54 and n183, 192
Brittany, 229 and n617
Brithnoth, exploits of, in embroidery, 6
Broderie des Indes, 229
-------- de Malines. _See_ Mechlin lace
Brooks, Mr., speech of, quoted, 329.
Brotherton, Mr., invention of lace loom by, 432 n1212
Brown, Rawdon, cited, 345 n1025
Bruce, Mr. Collingwood, cited, 6
Bruges
collection of lace at, 138
export trade with France, value of, 241
guipure de Flandres of, 123, 133
Valenciennes made at, character of, 232 n624
Brunet, H., cited, 161 n472, 236 n633, 459, 461, 476;
quoted, 466
Brunfaut, M. Duhayon, 131 and n374
Brussels lace
Alençon, 200
application, rivalry of Mirecourt, 252
arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365
branches of industry, 123
Brussels the only place for, 118
colour of, 121
compared with--
Alençon, 199;
Binche, 135;
Lille, 237;
point de France, 194;
St. Trond, 137;
Saxony needle point, 263
Cretan mesh work compared with, 87
designing of, 122
English Court fashion for, in George II.'s time, 354
exported as "English point," 117
flowers of, 121
grounds of, 120;
Mechlin ground distinguished from, 125
Honiton imitations of, 405, 406, 410
made at Antwerp, 130;
at Chimay, 135
manufacture described, 31, 118, 119;
titles of workers of various processes in, 122
Marie Louise, Empress, presented with, 124
patterns of, 122;
date of earliest patterns, 116
point de Bruxelles. _See_ Point d'Angleterre
popular establishment for English buyers, 124
price per pound, 119 n339;
causes of high price, 118, 119;
comparative cost of ground, 120;
price of flounce of, 124 n352
thread used in, 118 and n338;
fineness of 119 n339
value of, from one pound of flax, 120;
intrinsic value of, 124 n352
veil of, presented to Empress Josephine, 123 n351;
smuggled, 361
Venetian wear of, 57 and n192
-------- -lace-makers, point de raccroc of, 120
-------- net, 120 n345
Bruyel, Nicholas de, 111
Buckingham, Duchess of, 345 n1024
Buckinghamshire lace, 378-383;
value of, 402
Buffon, ruffles of, 173
Bulgarini, Francesea, 68 and n213
Bullock, Consul, quoted, 89
Bunt lace, 428
Buoy, lace seized in, 360 n1066
Burano
Alençon point made at, 62, 200
Argentan made at, 62, 208
English thread used at, 394 n1128
number of lace-workers at, 394 n1128
revival of lace industry at, 58-62
Burato, 53
Burgoigne, 205 n573, 216 n594
Burgundy, lace industry of, 255 and n684, n685;
lace-makers from, in London, 373
--------, Duke of (Charles the Bold), 111
--------, Dukes of, inventory of, quoted, 82
--------, Duchess of, 167 n492
Burke, Patrick, 323
Burnet, Bishop, quoted, 13
Burnham (Buckinghamshire), lace industry of, 379
Burning of badly-spun yarn, 432 and n1211
Butterfly and acorn design, 308, 408
Byas, 299 and n815
Byzantine Empire, origin of lace traced to, 45
Cabanillas, cited, 102
Cadenetas, 95
Calderwood, Mrs., cited, 127, 431;
quoted, 118 and n337, 137, 260;
Dresden ruffles of, 262
Caen
black lace of, 226
blonde lace of, patterns, 224;
quality, 224;
rise and fall of industry, 225
Chantilly industry outrivalled by, 215;
Chantilly made at, 224
number of lace-makers employed in (1847), 225;
(after 1848), 228 n614
price of lace of, 224
Cahanet, 226
Calais, machine-made blondes of, 225
Calepino, T., 474
Callot, engravings of, 146
Calthorpe, Lady, 37, 297
Calvados lace industry, 213, 223, 226, 228 and n614, 257 n688
Cambray, Archbishop of, 173 and n508
Cambrensis, Giraldus, cited, 435
Cambury, Lord, 403
Campan, Mme. de, 180 n533
Campane, 34 and n104, n106, 51
Campanner, 343 n1017
Campany, cited, 99
Campos, Father Fr. Marcos Antonio de, quoted, 95
Candy, thread lace from, 38
Canetille, 36
"Canons," 153 and n441
Canossa, Contessa, 469
Cant, Miss Anne, 430 n1207
Cantor Lectures on the Art of Lace-making, cited, 2 n7
Cantu, lace-making at, 66, 80
Capefigue, quoted, 166
Card-sharping aided by ruffles, 171, 351
Cardinals, 356 and n1059
Cardwell, Mr., 384
Carew, Sir G., 308 n870
Carpaccio, lace in pictures of, 47
Carpentier, Madame, 226
Carrêno, lace rare in paintings of, 98
Carrickmacross, lace industry at, 440
Carrouges, 206
Cartisan, 36
Cary, John, quoted, 849 n1325
Castanaga, M. de, 167
Castlebar, lace industry at, 439
Catalonia, blonde made at, 101;
blonde mantillas of, 88, 226
Catgut lace, 343, 430 n1207
Catherine de Bourbon, 144, 482, 494
---------- of Braganza, 43 n137
---------- de Médecis,
bed of, 22
bizette of, 33 n102
Florentine lace probably introduced into France by, 67
lace-making at court of, 140 and n395
needlework of, 11
Vinciolo patronised by, 11, 17
Cattern's Day, 376
Cauellat, Veuve, 476
Cavenne, Citoyen, 137 n390
Cayette, V. P., cited, 140 n397
Cecil, letter from, regarding French tailors, quoted, 307
Cecyll, Richard, 291
Celle, D., 466
Cephalonia, Ionian lace at, 86
Cerceau, A. du, 476
Ceylon, pillow-laces of, 88
Challus, Anne, 184 n540
Chambrières, 8
Champagne, lace industry of, 253-255
Chandos, infant daughter of Duke of, 352 n1046
--------, Lady, 294 n791, 297 n811, 307 n862, 308 n867
Channel Islands, lace industry in, 372 n1098
Channon, Miss Mary, 398
"Chansons a toile", 8 and n29
Chantilly
number of lace-workers at Alençon and, (1851), 257 n688
point tresse made at, 314
---------- lace
black, 226
Caen manufacture of, 224
Genoese imitation of, 75
industry of, 212-215
Saxony lace compared with, 263
Spanish silk laces contrasted with, 103
Spanish and Portuguese imitation of, 106
Charles I. (England)
Carisbrook clothing expenses of, 372 n1097
carpet bag trimmings of, 38, 298
extravagance of, 326, 327 and n950, 328
Great Wardrobe Account, quoted, 253 and n678, n679, 205 n612
marriage accounts, 296
period of, 326-332
picture catalogue of, cited, 296
-------- II. (England)
Collobium sindonis of, 335 and n981
Flanders lace, importation of, prohibited by, 125
foreign lace imported by, 336 and n985
period of, 335-339
silver parchment lace of, 38, 298 and n841
--------, Prince (England), accounts of, cited, 322, 325 n940, n941
-------- V. (Belgium)
cap of, 113
lace-making encouraged by, 113
portrait of, in Quentell's pattern book, 459
-------- VIII. (France), 139 n393
-------- IX. (Sweden), 279
-------- X., 143 n412
-------- the Bold, 111
Charleville lace, 183 n539, 254 and n680
Charlotte, Queen
Armada pattern lace of, 397
British lace worn by, 363, 398
favourite lace of, 128
lace industry started by, 374
sponsor to children of aristocracy, 352 n1046
Charmouth, lace-workers at, 395
Charollais, Mlle. de,
inventory of, quoted, 125 n353, 129 n364, 162 n475, 175 n520, 135
ruffles of, 233 n626
Chat, 181 and n536
Château de Madrid, lace factory at, 158, 210 and n584
-------- -Renaud lace, 254
-------- -Thierry, lace industry at, 157 n459, 253
Châtel-sur-Moselle, 251 and n671
Châtelain, Simon, 100 and n287
----------, Zacharie, 259
Chaucer, quoted, 15 and n50
Chaumont, 251 n673
Chauvin, Pierre, 230
Cheney, lace industry at, 384
Chesterfield, Lord, quoted, 358
Cheveux de la reine, 181 and n535
Chevreuse, Madame de, 168
Cheyne lace, 438
Chiavari
_Macramé_ of, 79
tape guipure of, 75
Chicago Exhibition. _See under_ Exhibitions
Chichester, Lady Hamilton, 87 and n262
Chick, Mrs., 407 n1153
Chigi-Giovanelli, Princess, 61
Children as lace-makers, 103 n305, 107, 155, 209, 377, 438
Chili lace, 108
Chimay lace, 134-135
China
drawn work of, 46
silk lace not in demand in, 89
------, lace exchanged for, 349
Choïsy, Abbé de, 167
Christening shirts of Queen Elizabeth's reign, 308 and n872
Christian IV. of Denmark, 68, 272-274
Christina, Queen, 73 n230
Church of England
appointment of parsons of, for reform of lace-making abuses, 331
inventories of, lace mentioned in, 293
ruffs worn by Bishops, 318;
sermons against ruffs, 316
------ of France, extravagance of prelates (Louis XVI.), 182-183
Churchill, Lord, 403
Cibber, Colley, cited, 344 n1021
Cicognara, Count, 467 and n1286
Ciglia family, Maltese lace made by, 88
Cinq Mars, boots and collarette of, 145
Ciprioto, 82 n252
Cistercians, 7
"City Match," quoted, 324
Clarke, Jane, 443 n1233
Claver, Alice, 288
Clayton, Sir Thomas, accounts of, quoted, 350
Clement VII., Pope, 62
-------- IX., Pope, 70
-------- X., Pope, 172 n505
Clément, M., 226
Clermont, Mlle. de, inventory of, quoted 128 n363, 195 n560, 207 n578
Clonard Abbey, effigy in, 437 n1222
Clones, lace and crochet industry of, 445
Cluny, Musée de, punto a relievo in, 51
------ lace
Le Puy Fabric, 246 n659
Mirecourt fabric, 252
Coccolia, lace school at, 81 n249
Cochon, cited, 256 n686
Cock (fontange), 423
----, Hieronymus, 493 n1354
Cockscombes, 344
Code Michaud, 148
Coggeshall (Essex), lace made at, 441 n1230
Coigny, Duchesse de, 123 n351
"Col rabattu," 145
Colbert, Chevalier
Aurillac lace of, 248
chief director of trade, 158 n461
death of, 192
development of lace industry by, 154;
extract from letter to M. le Comte d'Avaux, 155
difficulties in establishing lace factories, 158 and n461, n462
fabrics attempted by, 255, 256
fabrics established by, at
Arras, 239 and n644
Aurillac, 247
Château de Madrid, 158, 210 n584
Le Quesnoy, 230
Loudun, 256
Huguenots protected by, 100
inventory of, quoted, 218 n596, 259 n692
Mazarin, correspondence with, concerning lace, referred to, 150-151
ordinance of, 54
point d'Alençon established by, 188
points de France, established by, 33, 111
Raffy, Madame, letter from, quoted, 202
Colbertine, 337, 339 and n996, n997, n998
Colchester, complaints of, regarding foreign lace-makers, 324 n935
Cole, A. S.
cited, 91-92 and n268, 446 n1236;
quoted, 193 n555, 203 n570
Kinsale lace revival due to, 442 and n1232
Collaert, engraving by, 109 n319
Collars, hunting, 328
Collectors of lace, 364
Cologne pattern book, 268
Colombière, Vulson de la, quoted, 73, 149 and n435
Colporteurs, lace sold by, 44 and n142, n143
Colyton
military thieves at, 403
tomb in church of, 403 n1145
Commode. _See_ Fontange
Commonwealth, the, needlework in the time of, 13
Compas lace, 297 and n809
Compton, Lord, cited, 296 n800
Conclave, the holy, laces of, 70
Condé, Princesse de, inventory of, quoted, 125 n355, 161 n468, 168 n496,
169 n497, 174 n519, n520, 195 n558
Congreve, cited, 344 n1021;
quoted, 339
Contarini, Lucretia, 476, 484
Conti, Prince de,
marriage-toilette of, 161-162 and n472
point d'Aurillac cloak of, 248
Contrada del Pizzo, 59
Connet, lace trade at, 270.
Cooke, quoted, 414
Copper lace (St. Martin's), 331 n965
Coral point, 51
Coralline, Point de Venise copied from, 49-50
Cordonnet, 87, 406, 408
Corfu, Greek lace made at, 85
Cork, crochet industry of, 444, 445
"Corona" of Vecellio. _See_ Vecellio
Cotgrave, quoted, 33 n102, 36 n112
Cotton lace, 187
------ weaving, at Ghent, 134
Couronne (picot), 31 and n92
Courtrai, flax grown at, 118 n338
-------- lace. _See under_ Valenciennes lace
Cousin, Jean, 476
Couvin lace, 138 n392
Covenanters, sumptuary enactments of, 424
Coventry blue, 302
Cow-houses, lace worked in lofts over, 224
Cowper, quoted, 364, 370, 379
Coxcombs, 31
Cranfield, Sir Lyonell, cited, 324 n934
Crâponne fabric, 246
Cravat, laced
introduction of, 337
origin of, 42 n135
stock the successor of, 345
Creaden, the Queen of, 437 n1223
Créquy, M. de, 143
------, Madame de, quoted, 175
------, Marquise de, quoted, 173 n511, 250 and n668
Crete, lace manufacture of, 86-87
Crochet, Irish, 444-445
-------- hook used in Genoese guipures, etc., 74
-------- needle, used in Punto di Rapallo, 75 n237
Cromwell, Oliver, dress of, 333, 334
Crown lace, 299 and n814
Croïy, Duc de, 366 n1083
Crusaders, art of lace-making, traced to, 45 n148
Cuença, 246
Cuipure (guipure), 37
Culpepper, Sir John, quoted, 318-319
Cunningham, quoted, 308 n866
Curragh point, 443 and n1233
Curtius, M., 143 and n412
"Custom of the Country" quoted, 324
Cut-work
ecclesiastical use of, 15
Elizabeth's use of, 303-305
Italian, 325
James I.'s time, 322, 325
lace known as, 2
name explained, 19
pall of, used in Dieppe, 25
Ricci's "Last Supper" depicted in, 79 n248
smocks adorned with, 25
toile d'honneur of, use at St. Lo, 25
Cyprus, needlework of, 82
d'Abranthès, Duchesse, 105, 128 n343, 185 n542, 186 and n545, 237 n638
d'Addo, Marquis, 459 n1264, 467 n1287, n1288, 469 n1294, 470, 472, 475,
476 and n1315, 477
Daedalian ruffs, 315 and n895
Daimeries, Mme., quoted, 138 n392
Dalecarlian lace, 68, 281, 282, 338
Dalrymple, Miss Jenny, 263
Dalton, Mother Augustine, 444
Damer, Mr., 364
Dammartin lace, 212
Dangean, quoted, 167, 178
Dantelle (dentelle), first occurrence of word, 490
d'Aranda, Madame, 98 n280
Darned netting, 20, 21
Dartmouth, Lord, 379
Dauphin, ceremony at birth of, 162 n474
Davies, Barber Surgeon, quoted, 70
Davies' _Epigrams_ quoted, 323 n933
Davey, Mrs., 409
Dawson, Mrs., 446 n1235
de la Motte, Maréchal, 29, 126 and n357
de Lonlay, Eugène, cited, 208
de Staël, Madame, 180
Deaf and dumb, net lace used by, in Sardinia, 81 n248
Debts for lace, 353 and n1050.
Decker, T., quoted, 315 n895
Defoe, quoted, 43 n140, 171 n503, 377 and n1111, 378, 379, 380 and n1119,
396, 397, 403;
cited, 344
Delaney, Mrs., quoted, 120 n344, 121, 355;
cited, 413 n1161
Denbert, Bishop of Durham, 6
Denmark
cut-work of, 276, 277
embroidered tulle of, 229
grave-clothes, lace adorned in, 275, 366 and n1082
lace industry. (_See also_ Schleswig and Tönder)
export trade, 274 n736
lace postmen, 274, 277
origin of, 272
protected by Christian IV., 274
quality of lace, 275
Wulff's revival of, 276 and n739
Dennistoun, Mrs., 58-59, 487
Denny, Lady Arabella, 437, 438 and n1225, 439 and n1227
Dentelière, work of, 122
Dentelle, definition of term, 27 and n80
-------- à la Reine, 259 and n692
-------- à la Vierge, 220
"Dépit Amoureux" quoted, 32
Derby Alice, Countess of, effigy of, 321 n927
------, Lady, 342
------ rib, 448 n1239
Derbyshire, pillow lace made in, 393
Derode, V., quoted, 236 n630, n633
Desborough, lace industry of, 379
Desmarquets, cited, 219 n603
Desmond, Countess of, 437 n1222
Desnos, Joseph Odolant, quoted, on establishment of point d'Alençon, 155
n455
------, Odolent, quoted, on invention and establishment of point
d'Alençon, 155-157
Despierres, Mme., quoted, 157 n457, n458, 159 n464, 195 n557, 204 n571,
307;
cited, 192 n552, 203
d'Este, Madame Anne Bellorio, 61
family, auctions of, cited, 46
Devonshire
bone pins used in, 294
lace of. _See_ Honiton, Trolly
villages in, noted for lace-making in 1698, 403 n1143;
those now engaged in, 403 n1147
----------, Duke of, coffin of, searched for lace, 360
----------, Duke of, Jacobite lace brought to, 426
Diamond lace, 299-300 and n818
"Diarium Vadstenoense" 278
Didot, F., 487
Dieppe
cut-work, pall used in, 25
lace industry of, 218-220, 223
------ lace, 183 n539
Dieudonné--
quoted, 225 n613, 231;
cited 237 n639
Dijon, Valenciennes made at, 255
Dike, Ric. 319 n918
Dinant muslin-work, 138 n392
Dinghen, Madame, 311
Doddridge, Lady, effigy of, 405
Doge's horn in Italian laces, 66
Dogs as lace-smugglers, 116 and n329
Dolls dressed in French fashions, 170 and n500, n501
"Don Quixote," cited, 98 n281
Donat, Père, 501
Donchéry lace, 254
Doran, Dr., anecdote related by, 186
Dorsetshire lace, 396-398;
value of, 402
Dorstats, Madame Catherine von, 497
Douairière de la Ferté, Duchesse, 175-176
Double ground, 386
Douce, Mrs., cited, 500 n1366
Douglas, Bp., letters of, quoted, 265 and n720
Dover, refugee lace-makers at, 324 n935
"Down," 390
Draper, Mrs., 13
Drawn-work,
method of, 25
Sicilian, 81
South American, 188
wire, 72
Dresden lace, 262, 263, 430 and n1207
Drocheleuse, work of, 122
Droschel, 119
Drouais, 168
Dryden, quoted, 425
Du Barry, Madame
accounts of, quoted, 34 n106, 120 and n341, n343, n344, 126 n356, 129
n364, 162 n475, 168 n496, 175 n520, 178 n529, 181 n534, 195, 207 and
n577, 231 and n621, n622, 233 n625, n626
Indian muslin bought by, 179
inventories of, quoted, 213 n592, 250 n666, n667
Du Haillan, 142 n408
Dublin Society, The, 429, 437-439
Dubois, C., cited, 137 n389, 138 n392
------, 468
Duchesse lace, 123
Dulaure, cited, 173 and n513
Dumont, manufactory of, 211
------, Mlle., 105 n312
Dunbar, Mrs., 443
Dunkirk, James II.'s cap in Museum at, 340 and n1004
Duponchel (Du Ponchel), 205, 207 n576
Dupont, M., cited, 204
Duras, Duc de, 207 n577
------, Duchesse de, 213 and n591
Duref Henri, cited, 247