in varii dissegni tutte le sorti di Mostre di punti tagliati e punti in
aria, punti Fiamenghi, punti a Retcello, e d' ogn' altra sorte, Cosi per
Fregi, per merli e Rosette, che con Aco si viano hoggidi per lutta
l'Europa. E molte delle quali Mostre porsono Serviri ancora per opera à
Mozzete. Con le dichiarationi a le Mostre a' Lavori fatti da Lugretia
Romana. In Venetia, appresso Allessandro de Vecchi, 1620.[1361]
27 ff., obl. 8vo.
106.
[Sidenote: 1625. _Venice. Lugretia Romana._]
Corona delle Nobili et Virtuose Donne, Libro primo, nel quale si dimostra
in varij Dissegni tutte le sorti di Mostre di punti tagliati, punti in
Aria, punti Fiamenghi, punti a Reticello, e d' ogni altre sorte, cosi per
Freggi, per Merli, e Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano per tutta l'Europa.
E molte delle quali Mostre possono servire ancora per opere a Mazzete.
Con le dichiarazioni a le Mostre, a Lavori fatti da Lugretia Romana.
In Venetia appresso Alessandro de Vecchi MDCXXV. Si vendono in Venetia al
Ponte de' Baretteri alla libreria delle tre Rose.[1362]
Lady Wilton, in her _Art of Needlework_, quotes a copy dated 1620.
Obl. 4to, ff. 27. Portrait of Maria d'Aragon.
{498}107.
[Sidenote: _N. D. Venice. Lucretia Romana._]
Ornamento nobile, per ogni gentil matrona, dove si contiene bavari, frisi
d' infinita bellezza, lavori, per Linzuoli, Traverse, e Facuoli, Piena di
Figure, Ninfe, Satiri, Grotesche, Fontane, Musiche, Caccie di Cervi,
Uccelli, ed altri Animali. Con ponti in aria, fiamenghi, et tagliati, con
Adornamenti bellissimi, da imperare, per ogni Virtuosa Donna, che si
diletta di perfettamente cucire. Opera, per Pittori, Scultori, e
disegnatori giovevole alle lor professioni, Fatta da Lucretia Romana, il
quinto volume di Suoi lavori. Dedicato alle Virtuose donne, in
Venetia.[1363]
Fol., 20 plates.
Frontispiece, in point coupé frame. A woman in classic attire is
represented under a Doric porch, standing on a tortoise, symbol of a
home-loving woman. (See No. 77.) She holds a ball of thread in her
hand. Behind, on the left, are two women at work; on the right, a
sculptor chiselling a statue of Minerva.
The plates, which are rich and beautiful, are each accompanied by a
short explanation, as "Degna de esser portata de ogni imperatrice;"
"Hopera bellissima che per il piu il Signora Duchesa et altre Signore
si servano per li suoi Lavori;" "Questa bellissima Rosette usano auco
le gentildonne Venetiane da far traverse," etc. (Fig. 173.)
The bavari are executed in three different stitches: punto d' aieri, p.
flamingo, and p. tagliato. This author and Vecellio give Flemish
patterns (punti Fiamenghi). They consist mostly of rosettes and stars
(gotico).
108.
[Sidenote: 1623. _Paris._]
Les excellents eschantillons, patrons et modelles du Seigneur Federic de
Vinciolo Venitien, pour apprendre à faire toutes sortes d'ouvrages de
Lingerie, de Poinct couppé, grands et petits passements à jour, et
dentelles exquises. Dediez à la Royne. A Paris. Chez la Veufve Jean le
Clerc, ruë Sainct Jean de Latran, à la Salamandre Royalle. Avec Privilege
du Roy, 1623.[1364]
In 4to, 56 ff.
The old frontispiece and same "Avertissement."
Dedication to the Queen, Anne of Austria.
The Goddess Pallas invented "les ouvrages de lingerie, le poinct
couppé, les grands and petits passements à jour, toutes sortes de
dentelles, tant pour se desennuyer que se parer, par l'artifice de ses
ingenieuses mains. Araciné s'y adonna, and bien qu'inferieure se
voulant comparer à elle & en venir à l'experience, mais sa presomption
fut chastiée." Many illustrious ladies have delighted in this "honneste
exercise." Fastrade and Constance, wives of the Emperor Charlemagne and
of King Robert, "s'employèrent de cette manufacture, & de leurs
ouvrages ornèrent les églises & les autels." This royal "mestier" has
reached perfection through the works of Vinciolo. I reprint and again
increase his work, which I dedicate to your Majesty, to whom I presume
they will be agreeable; the subject of which it treats is "une
invention de déesse & une occupation de Royne--vous estant autant Royne
des vertus que vous l'estes de deux royaumes." Signed, "la Veufve de
feu Iean le Clerc."
Same sonnet.
Privilege for six years, dated Paris, last day of March, 1623.
55 ff., 58 plates, 24 ouvrages de point couppé and 8 of "Passements au
fuzeau" (see Figs. 14 and 15), and alphabet.
[Illustration: Fig. 173.
BAVARO DI PONTO D' AERE.--Con belissime figure ed altri flori.
"BAVARI."--From _Ornamento mobile_ of Lucretia Romana.
_To face page 498._]
{499}109.
A Schole Howse for the Needle. Teaching by sundry sortes of patterns and
examples of different kindes, how to compose many faire workes; which
being set in order and forme according to the skill and understanding of
the workwoman will, no doubt, yield profit unto such as live by the
needle and give good content to adorne the worthy. London printed in Shoe
Lane at the "Faulcon" by Richard Shorleyker, 1632.
TO THE READER.
Gentle Reader, I would have you know that the Diversities of Examples
which you shall find in this "Schoole-howse for the Needle" are only
but patternes which serve but to helpe and inlarge your invention. But
for the disposing of them into forme and order of Workes that I leave
to your own skill and understanding. Whose ingenious and well practised
wits will soe readily (I doubt not) compose them into such beautiful
formes as will be able to give content, both to the workers and the
wearers of them. And againe for your behoafe I have in the end of this
booke made two scales or checker patternes which by enlarging or
contracting into greater or lesser squares you may enlarge or make
lesser any of the saide patternes and examples in the booke or any
other whatever.
VALE!
And because I would not have any one mistaken in any of these patternes
contayned in this Booke, for some peradventure will look to find workes
set out in order as they should be wrought with the needle or florished
upon the Tent, &c. But as I have said before in the beginning of this
Booke, that, that is here published are only but diversitie of
patternes, out of which the workwoman is to take her choice of one or
more at her pleasure and so have them drawne out into forme and order
of worke. Of which skill if it may be I would have serving-men (such as
have time enough) to practice and be skilful in which will be quickly
learned if they would, with a little patience applie their mindes to
practise it. A quarter of the time that they spend in playing at cards,
tables, quaffing and drinking would make them excellent in this
knowledge especially such as are ingenious and indued with good wits,
as for the most part all of them have; Againe it is a thing that no
doubt would yield them both praise and profit, beside the pleasure and
delight it would be unto them, and a good inducement to drawe on others
of their own ranke and qualitie to the like practice and imitation.
110.
[Sidenote: 1632. _London._]
Here followeth certaine patternes of Cut-workes; and but once Printed
before. Also sundry sorts of Spots, as Flowers, Birds, and Fishes, &c.,
and will fitly serve to be wrought, some {500}with Gould, some with
Silke, and some with Gewell (_sic_) or otherwise at your pleasure.
London; Pinted (_sic_) in Shoe-lane, at the signe of the Faulcon, by
Richard Shorleyker. 1632.[1365]
Obl. 4to.
The copy in the Bodleian is probably due to the above. It has no date
and varies in title: "Newly invented and never published before," with
"crewell in coullers," etc.; and "Never but once published before."
Printed by Rich. Shorleyker.
33 patterns and title.
111.
[Sidenote: 1640.]
The needles excellency, a new booke wherein are divers admirable workes
wrought with the needle. Newly invented and cut in copper for the
pleasure and profit of the industrious. Printed for James Boler, &c.,
1640.[1366]
"Beneath this title is a neat engraving of three ladies in a flower
garden, under the names of Wisdom, Industrie, and Follie. Prefixed to
the patterns are sundry poems in a commendation of the needle, and
describing the characters of ladies who have been eminent for their
skill in needlework, among whom are Queen Elizabeth and the Countess of
Pembroke. These poems were composed by John Taylor, the Water Poet. It
appears the work had gone through twelve impressions.... From the
costume of a lady and gentleman in one of the patterns, it appears to
have been originally published in the reign of James I."--(Douce.) From
this description of the frontispiece, it seems to be copied from
Sibmacher.
"The Needle's Excellency, or a new Book of Patterns, with a poem by
John Taylor, in Praise of the Needle." London, 1640. Obl. 4to, engraved
title, and 28 plates of patterns. Sold, 1771, £6 17s. 6d. (Lowndes,
_Bibliographer's Manual_. New edit., by H. Bohn). Another copy of the
same date, marked 12th edition, is in the Library of King's College,
Cambridge. It consists of title, four leaves with the poem, subscribed
John Taylor, and 31 leaves of copper cuts of patterns.
112.
[Sidenote: 1642 _Pistoja. P. A. Fortunato._]
Le Pompe di Minerva, per le nobili e virtuose donne che con industriosa
mano di trattenersi dilettano di far Rezze, maglia quadra, punti in aria,
punti in tagliati, punti a reticello, cosi per fregio come per merletti e
rosette di varie sorti, si come oggidi con l'aco di lavorar usati per
tutto l'Europa, arrichite di bellissimi et vaghi intagli cavati da più
celebri autori di tal professione. In Pistoja, per Piero A. Fortunato.
In 8vo obl., dedicated to Caterina Giraldini, in Cellesi. August 20
1642.[1367]
{501}113.
[Sidenote: 1666. _Nuremberg._]
Dass Neue Modelbuch von schönen Nädereyen, Ladengewerk und Soterleins
arbeit. Ander theil. Nürnberg, bey Paulus Fürsten Kunsthändler.
Obl. 4to, 3 sheets of text, 50 plates.
Dedicated to the Princess Rosina Helena. Nürnberg, March 20,
1666.[1368]
114.
In the Bib. Imp. (Gravures, L. h. 4. c.) is a vol. lettered "Guipure,
gravures burin," containing a collection of patterns engraved on
copper, 43 plates, four of which are double, pasted in the book,
without title or date. Pomegranates, narcissus, lilies, carnations,
most of them labelled "Kreutzstick, Frantzösischenstick, and
Fadengewürck" (thread work), the number of stitches given, with Clocks
(Zwickel) of stockings and other patterns.
115.
[Sidenote: 1676. _Nuremberg. C. Gerharts._]
Model Buch, dritter Theil von unterschiedlicher Vögeln, Blumen und
Früchten &cte. Von und in Verlegung Rosina Helena Fürtin. Nürnberg,
Christoff Gerharts, 1676.
4to obl., engraved title and printed list; 42 wood plates, 4 large.
116.
[Sidenote: 1722. _Paris._]
Methode pour faire une infinité de desseins differens, avec des carreaux
mi-partis de deux couleurs par une ligne diagnonale ou observations du
père Dominique Donat, religieux carme de la province de Touleuse sur une
mémoire inserée dans l'histoire de l'Académie royale des sciences à
Paris, l'année 1704, presenté par le Rev. Père Sebastien Truchet. Paris,
1722.[1369]
72 geometric squares, with directions how to make them useful to
architects, painters, embroiderers, "tous ceux qui se servent de
l'aiguille," and others.
117.
[Sidenote: 1784. _Nuremberg and Leipzig. Christoph Weigel._]
Neues Neta- und Strickbuch fur das schöne Geschlecht, worinnen allerhand
Zierrathen, wie auch viele neue Zwickel, nebst Buchstaben und Zahlen,
sowohl zum Nähen als Stricken in zierlichen Nissen und Mustern befindlich
sind. Mit vielen Kupfertafeln. Nürnberg und Leipzig, der Christoph Weigel
und Schneider. 1784.[1370]
{502}118.
[Sidenote: _N. D. Nuremberg. F. M. Helmin._]
Continuation der kunst- und fleisz-übenden Nadel-Ergötzung oder des neu
ersonnenen besondern Nehe-Buchs dritter Theil, worinnen fleiszige
Liebhaberinnen deeser nöthig und nützlichen Wissenchaft, ihr kunstliches
Nadel-Exercitium, beij unterschiedlich vorfallenden Belegenheiten zu
haben allerhand noch nie vorgeko[=m]ene Muster zu Deso gebrauch, vorlegt
und en die Hand gegeben werden von Fr. Margaretha Helmin, zu finden in
Nürnberg bei Joh. Christoph Weigel. Nürnburg. No date.[1371]
Oblong fol.
119.
[Sidenote: _N. D. Nuremberg. J. Chr. Weigel._]
Zierlich webende Minerva, oder neu erfundenes Kunst- und Bild-Buch der
Weber- und Zeichner-Arbeit, worinnen treue Anweisung geschieht, wie man
kunstlich wirken und schöne Arbeit verfertigen soll, von der
vierschäfftigen an, bis auf zwey und dreissig-schafftige. Nurnberg
(Johann Christoph Weigel). No date.[1372]
49 plates in sheets.
{503}GLOSSARY OF TERMS.
_Bars._ See _Brides_.
_Bead Edge._ A simple heading for pillow lace.
_Bobbins._ Small elongated wooden or bone reels on which the thread is
wound for the purpose of lace-making. They are frequently ornamented with
patterns pricked or stained, and polished. They are weighted with "gingles"
or "jingles" (_i.e._, beads, coins, seals, seeds, or various articles).
_Brides._ A small strip or connection (1) of threads overcast with
buttonhole stitches, or (2) of twisted or plaited threads. It is used
instead of a ground-work of net; the word is French, its English equivalent
being _pearl-tie_. The French word is chiefly employed.
_Brides ornées_ = brides ornamented with picots, loops, or pearls.
_Buttonhole Stitch._ One of the chief stitches in needle-made lace; also
known as _close stitch_, _Point noué_, and _Punto a Feston_.
_Cartisane._ A strip of parchment or vellum covered with silk or gold or
metal thread, used to form a pattern.
_Close Stitch_ = Buttonhole stitch.
_Cordonnet._ The outline to ornamental forms. The cordonnet consists (1) of
a single thread, or (2) of several threads worked together to give the
appearance of one large thread, or (3) of a thread or horsehair overcast
with buttonhole stitches. In England called _gimp_.
_Couronnes._ Ornaments to the cordonnet. When they ornament the raised
cordonnet in the body of the pattern they are known as _fleurs volantes_.
_Coxcombs_ = Bars.
_Dentélé_ = Scalloped border.
_Droschel._ Flemish word used in Belgium for net-ground made with bobbins.
_Dressed Pillow._ A term used by bobbin-lace makers to intimate that all
accessories necessary are in their proper positions.[1373]
{504}_Edge._ There are two edges to lace; the outer, which in trimmings and
flounces is either scalloped or ornamented with picots, and the _engrêlure_
or _footing_.
_Engrêlure_ = Footing, or heading, of a lace, used to sew the lace on to
the material it is to decorate.
_Entoilage._ French term for a plain mesh ground or galloon.[1374]
_Fil de Crin._ A thick or heavy outline or cordonnet.[1374]
_Fil de Trace._ The name by which the outlines of needle-made laces are
distinguished.[1374]
_Fillings._ A word occasionally used for _modes_ or _jours_; fancy stitches
employed to fill in enclosed spaces in needle-made and bobbin laces.[1374]
_Flax._ Is composed of the filaments of the fibrous portion of _Linum
usitatissimum_, an annual, native of Europe, and from it linen thread is
spun. That of Flanders is the best for lace-making.
_Fleurs Volantes._ See _Couronnes_.
_Fond._ Identical with _champ_, _entoilage_, and _treille_. The groundwork
of needle-point or bobbin lace as distinct from the toilé or pattern which
it surrounds and supports. Grounds are divided into _fonds claires_,
_brides claires_, and _brides ornées_. The _fond claires_ include the
_Réseau_ or net-patterned grounds. _Fond de Neige_ is also known as _Oeil
de Perdrix_.
_Fond Simple._ Sometimes called _Point de Lille_; is the purest, lightest,
and most transparent of all grounds. The sides of the meshes are not partly
plaited as in Brussels and Mechlin, nor wholly plaited as in Valenciennes
and Chioggia; but four of the sides are formed by twisting two threads
round each other, and the remaining two sides by simply crossing of the
threads over each other. [See _Grounds_.][1374]
_Footing._ See _Engrêlure_.
_Gimp._ The _pattern_ which rests on the ground or is held together by
brides. The work should not, however be confounded with the material gimp,
which was formerly called _guipure_.
In Honiton and the Midlands, the word denotes the coarse glazed thread used
to raise certain edges of the design.[1374]
_Gingles._ A name given in Buckinghamshire, etc., to the bunches of
coloured beads hung on to bobbins by means of brass wire, in order to give
extra weight and so increase the tension of the threads.[1374]
{505}_Groppo_ [Italian]. A knot or tie.
_Grounds._ The grounds of laces are divided into two classes, one being
called the _bride_, the other the _Réseau_. The _bride_ ground is formed
with plain or ornamental bars, in order to connect the ornaments forming
the pattern. The _Réseau_ ground is a net made with the needle or with
bobbins, to connect the ornaments forming the pattern.
_Guipure._ A lace-like trimming of twisted threads. The word is now used to
loosely describe many laces of coarse pattern. _Guipure d'Art_ is the name
given to modern darned netting.[1375]
_Heading_ = _Footing_, _engrêlure_.
_Jours._ Ornamental devices occurring in various parts of a piece of lace.
The earliest forms of _jours_ may be seen in Venetian point lace, where
they are introduced into the centre of a flower or other such device.
[_Modes_ are identical with _jours_.]
_Legs_ = Bars.
_Mat_, or _Math_. The closely-plaited portions of flowers or leaves in
bobbin-made lace; also the closely-worked portion of any lace.[1375]
_Modes._ See _Jours_.
_Oeil de Perdrix._ See _Fond_.
_Orris._ A corruption of Arras. The term is now used to denote galloon for
upholstering purposes. In the eighteenth century it was applied to laces of
gold and silver.[1375]
_Passement._ Until the seventeenth century, laces, bands, and gimps were
called _passements à l'aiguille_; bobbin laces, _passements au fuseau_. At
present the word denotes the pricked pattern on parchment upon which both
needle-point and bobbin laces are worked.
_Passementerie._ Now used for all kinds of fringes, ribbons, and gimp for
dress trimmings.
_Pearls_, or _Purls_ = _Bars_.
_Pearl edge_, or _Purl edge_. A narrow thread edge of projecting loops used
to sew upon lace as a finish to the edge.[1375]
_Pearlin_, or _Pearling_ [Scotch]. Lace.
_Picot._ Minute loops worked on to the edge of a _bride_ or _cordonnet_, or
added as an enrichment to a flower--as in the case of rose point, in which
_picots_ play an important part.
{506}_Pillow Lace._ Lace made on the pillow, by twisting and plaiting
threads. The French term is _dentelle au fuseau_.
_Pizzo_ [Italian]. Lace.
_Ply_ = A single untwisted thread.
_Point Lace._ Lace made with the point of the needle. The French term is
_Point à l'aiguille_. The term point has been misused to describe varieties
of lace, such as _Point d'Angleterre_, _Point de Malines_, etc., which are
laces made on the pillow, and not with the point of the needle.
_Point de Raccroc._ A stitch used by lace-makers to join _réseau_ ground.
_Point Noué_ = Buttonhole stitch.
_Point Plat._ A French term for flat point executed without a raised
cordonnet or outline cord.[1376]
_Pricked._ The term used in pillow lace-making to denote the special
marking out of the pattern upon parchment.
_Pricker._ A short instrument used in bobbin lace to prick holes in the
pattern to receive the pins.[1376]
_Punto a Feston_ = Buttonhole stitch.
_Purls_ = _Brides_.
_Purlings_ = A stitch used in Honiton guipure to unite the bobbin-made
sprigs.[1376]
_Réseau._ Ground of small regular meshes made on the pillow in various
manners, and made by the point of the needle in fewer and less elaborate
manners. The French term, as here given, is generally used in preference to
any English equivalent.
_Réseau Rosacé._ See _Argentella_ (Ch. ARGENTAN).
_Rouissage._ The process of steeping the flax preparatory to its being spun
for lace-making.
_Rezél_, _Reseuil._ See LACIS, Chap. II.
_Runners._ The name by which the bobbins which work across a pattern in
bobbin lace are known.
_Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler.
{507}INDEX
Aberdeen, qualifications of schoolmistress of, 431 n1209
Aberdein, Mrs. Frank, cited, 400 n1140
Abrahat, Mrs., pensioned by Queen Anne, 347
Abrantès, Duchesse d', 105, 128 n343, 185 n542, 186 and n545, 237 n638
Abruzzi, the, lace-making in, 68
Addison, cited, 349
Addo, Marquis d', 459 n1264
Adelaide, Queen, 409 and n1155, n1156
Adélaïde de France, 182
Adelhaïs, Queen (wife of Hugh Capet), 5
Agriculture, women employed in, lace-makers contrasted with, 370
Aquesseau, Chancellor d', quoted, 264
Alb lace, at Granada, 92
Albert, Archduke of Austria, 113 n326
------ Museum (Exeter), tallies in, 78 n242
Albissola, lace manufacture at, 75, 77 and n240, 78, 79 and n246
Alcuid, embroidery taught by, 6
Alenches, 249
Alençon
numbers of lace-workers at Chantilly and, (1851), 257 n688,
refugees from, in 18th century, 347
--------, Duke d', 140 n395
-------- lace (see Point d'Alençon)
Alice, Princess, bridal dress of, 409
Almagro, lace industry at, 102 and n297, 103 n305
Aloe thread, Florentine use of, 93 n273
---- thread lace
Greek, 86
Italian, 79 and n245
Portuguese, 107
Spanish, 91, 93, 99, 101
Alost Valenciennes, ground stitch of, 133
Altar-cloths,
alternate designs on, 24
Bock collection, in, 23
Prague, at (by Anne of Bohemia), 9
Altar frontal in point conté, (Mrs. Hailstone's), 23
Altenburg, 268
Alva, Duke of, 366 n1085
Alvin, M., 480 n1322
Amelia, Princess, 128
America,
impulse given to lace industry by U.S., 187
lace imported to, from--
Bailleul, 241
England (baby lace) 385
Grammont, 134
Italy, 75, 79
Mirecourt, 253
Portugal, 106
Saxony, 263
Spain, 102
Puritan lace-makers in, 372 n1099
war with, effect of, on lace trade, 408
Amsterdam, establishment of lace fabric at, 259
Anderson, quoted, 74, 83, 101, 124, 271,288, 371 n1093, 384, 396;
cited, 264 n709, 265 n713, 286, 397
--------, Lady, robbery at house of, 346
Angoulême, Duchesse d', 196
Anne of Austria,
influence of, on French fashions, 147, 150
Mechlin veil of, 125-126 and n356
pattern-book dedicated to, 144, 498
pilgrimage to Thierzac, 248
presents of English lace from Henrietta Maria to, 330 and n961, 401
---- of Bohemia, Queen (wife of Richard II.), altar-cloth by, 9
---- of Denmark,
cost of lace of, 317 and n904, 320 and n925
Elizabeth's old clothes presented to, 320
English home industries encouraged by, 319
foreign lace purchased by, 327
funeral of, 325 and n934
---- of England (Queen Anne)
household management of, 174 n516
Mechlin lace of, 126 and n360
period of, 347-350
Anspach, 265
--------, Margrave of, 178
Anti-Gallican Society
Edinburgh and Dublin Societies contemporaneous with, 429
prizes awarded by, 119, 262, 297, 355 and n1058, 374 and nn, 380, 395,
398, 404
records of, cited, 373
Antwerp
book sale at (1864), 482
Brussels lace made at, 130
Mechlin lace made at, 125
-------- lace
arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365
Brussels lace compared with, 118
first mention of, 129 and n367
Spanish market for, 129-130
-------- lace-makers, in London (1618-1688), 129 n366
Anzola, M., 474
Application lace, 122;
flowers, 252
Appliqueuse, work of, 122
Aprons, laced, 309 and n873, 338, 356 and n1062
Aranda, Madame d', 98 n280
Arbroath, effigy formerly in church of, 418
Ardee, braid and cord lace made at, 446
Ardfert Abbey, lace shroud found at, 436
Argentan, 202 and n569
-------- lace. _See_ Point d'Argentan
Argentella, 78 n244, 193 and n555
Argentine of Dorset, 310 n877
Argyle, Duchess of. _See_ Hamilton
Armada pattern lace of Queen Charlotte, 397
Armstrong, Mrs. Rachel, 438
Arnold, E., cited, 466, 469 n1286, 471 n1299
Arras
early industries of, 239
gold lace of, 240
lace industry of, 238-240
lace of, compared with that of Lille, 235, 240;
with that of Mirecourt, 252
number of lace workers (1851), 257 n688
Arundel, Countess of, 12
--------, Lady, quoted, 395
Assizes, Maiden, custom of presenting laced gloves at, 337 n991
Asti, Baroness A. d', 79
Athens, white silk lace of, 86
Atterbury, Bishop, lace smuggled in coffin of, 361
Auberville, M. Dupont, exhibits by, 58;
cited, 78
Aubry, Felix, quoted, 132 n376, 160 n466, 228 n614, 231, 257 n688;
cited, 184, 285, 292
Audiganne, A., cited, 228 n614
Augsburg, 266, 267
Augusta, Princess, marriage of, 359
Aumale, Madame d', 183