To the _honest_ traveller, like Al-Ghazali, however, it was not so easy a

life. Not only were there the hardships of travel and its loneliness, but

the asceticism of the beggar and the wayfarer. “And to such a pass did we

come,” says Hariri, “through assailing fortune and prostrating need,—that

we were shod with soreness, and fed on choking, and filled our bellies

with ache, and wrapped our entrails upon hunger, and anointed our eyes

with watching, and made pits our home, and deemed thorns a smooth bed,

and came to forget our saddles, and thought destroying death to be sweet

and the ordained day to be tardy.”

We may believe that so keen an observer as Al-Ghazali carried his

“_Baedeker_” with him on his travels. He was doubtless acquainted with

the chief geographical works of that period, some of which contained maps

and even illustrations. The most important work was that by Abu ʾAbdallah

al-Maqdisi, who spent a great part of his life travelling all over the

Moslem empire, with the possible exception of India and Spain. His book

was entitled: “The Best Classification for the Knowledge of Climates.” It

was written in A. D. 985. Another work of a contemporary of Al-Ghazali,

Abu ʾUbaid al-Bakri of Cordova, was a general geography of all the roads

and provinces of the Moslem world.

Although we have no details of Al-Ghazali’s wanderings we can at least

follow him on his journeys and learn something of the places he visited

and their condition in his day. The course of his travels seems to have

been from Bagdad to Damascus, a journey of nearly five hundred miles,

from Damascus to Jerusalem and Hebron, thence on to the birthplace of the

Prophet at Mecca and his tomb at Medina and back over a thousand miles

more of caravan travel.

All through this period of Al-Ghazali’s life Damascus was experiencing

the storm and stress of war. Shortly before his time the city was taken

by the Karmatians and much of it was destroyed by fire. There were

frequent changes of governors, uprisings and riots. In 1068 the great

Mosque was set on fire. In 1076 the Seljuk generals seized the city,

built anew the citadel and other buildings, among them a famous hospital.

This was about fifteen years before Al-Ghazali’s arrival there from

Bagdad.

The great Ummayad Mosque of Damascus was said to be the grandest of all

Mohammedan buildings. There was praying space for 20,000 men; and it is

said to have taken the whole revenue of Syria for forty-seven years, not

counting eighteen shiploads of gold and silver from Cyprus to complete

the building. “When the wondrous work was finished, the Caliph would

not look at the accounts brought to him on eighteen laden mules, but

ordered that they should be burned and thus addressed the crowd: ‘Men of

Damascus, you possess four glories above other people; you are proud of

your water, your air, your fruits, your baths; your mosque shall be your

fifth glory.’”

Like other famous places of Moslem worship, this mosque was once the

site of a Christian church, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, to whom

there is still an imposing shrine. For some years the building was shared

between Christians and Mohammedans, but in A. D. 708 the Christians were

driven out. To this day one of the three minarets is called by the name

of _ʾIsa_ (Jesus), and above a gate, long since closed, is the Greek

inscription, “THY KINGDOM, O CHRIST, IS AN EVERLASTING KINGDOM, AND THY

DOMINION ENDURETH THROUGHOUT ALL GENERATIONS.”

Al-Ghazali spent many hours for many years under the shadow of this

great building, and it was in the minaret of Jesus that he had long

meditations. The minaret of Jesus, according to H. Saladin,[37] was built

in the eleventh century, shortly before the time of Al-Ghazali’s visit.

Did he ever find or understand the inscription on the gate and meditate

on that Prophet whose kingdom has no end and no frontier?

IV

Wanderings, Later Years, and Death

“Then came the immediate breaking up of the Seljukian Empire

into a number of independent principalities. Syria, Palestine,

and all Asia Minor, were partitioned among a dozen different

Turkish Emirs. Khorasan and Irak became the scene of a fierce

civil war, extending over several years, between two sons of

Malek Shah, Barkiaroc and Muhammed. Drought was added to the

horrors of war; the people perished by thousands of famine; the

incessant marching and counter-marching of the hostile armies

destroyed the remnant of food which had survived the want of

rain. To crown all, from the borders of Christendom a fresh

scourge was beheld preparing for Islam. The hosts of the Red

Cross passed the Bosphorus, and fought their way knee-deep in

blood to the walls of Jerusalem. The capture of the Holy City

struck like the point of a poisoned dagger to the heart of

every true Moslem.”

—_“Islam under the Khalifs of Baghdad,”

by Robert Durie Osborn._

IV

WANDERINGS, LATER YEARS, AND DEATH

The chronology of Al-Ghazali’s life was a puzzle even to those who wrote

only a century after his death. There seems great uncertainty not only as

to the time of his various journeyings but as to their order, and there

is dispute even regarding the places he visited. We know that the date

of his conversion was A. H. 488 (A. D. 1095), when he was thirty-eight

years old, and that shortly after this he went into exile. In A. H.

498 (A. D. 1104) he is said to have returned to active life, and to

have spent two years in retirement in Syria. The other dates are quite

uncertain. Following the best authorities at our disposal, especially his

own “Confessions,” we continue the story where we left off in the last

chapter.[38]

“From Damascus,” says Al-Ghazali, “I proceeded to Jerusalem, and every

day secluded myself in the Sanctuary of the Rock. After that I felt

a desire to accomplish the Pilgrimage, and to receive a full effusion

of grace by visiting Mecca, Medina, and the Tomb of the Prophet. After

visiting the shrine of the Friend of God (Abraham), I went to the Hejaz.

Finally, the longings of my heart and the prayers of my children brought

me back to my country, although I was so firmly resolved at first never

to revisit it. At any rate, I meant, if I did return, to live there

solitary and in religious meditation; but events, family care, and

vicissitudes of life changed my resolutions and troubled my meditative

calm. However irregular the intervals which I could give to devotional

ecstasy, my confidence in it did not diminish; and the more I was

diverted by hindrances, the more steadfastly I returned to it. Ten years

passed in this manner.”

According to this account his pilgrimage to Jerusalem and Hebron, to

Medina and Mecca, was part of one itinerary; it also is the natural

route of travel from Bagdad to the birthplace of Islam. The statement

made by some authorities that he first remained ten years at Damascus is

therefore probably inaccurate. If we are to believe al-Isnawi, the course

of events was as follows: He set out in the year A. D. 1095 for the

Hejaz. On his return from the pilgrimage, he journeyed to Damascus, and

made his abode there for some years in the minaret of the Grand Mosque,

composing several works of which the _Ihya_ is said to be one. Then

after visiting Jerusalem and perhaps Cairo and Alexandria, he returned to

his home at Tus.

According to one Arabic authority, when Al-Ghazali left Damascus in

his wanderings, he was accompanied by a disciple, a certain Abu Tahir

Ibrahim, who had been a pupil also at Nishapur under the great Imam; he

returned afterwards to Jurjan, his native place, and died a martyr in

A. H. 513. Other pupils of his at Damascus are also mentioned, but the

authorities do not agree.

Among many shrines at Jerusalem, Al-Ghazali visited the Mosque of Omar,

and the Dome of the Rock. In Sura xvii. 1, Mohammed is represented as

having taken his flight from Mecca to Jerusalem.—“Celebrated be the

praises of Him who by night took his servant from the _Masjidu ’l-Haram_

(the Sacred Mosque) to the _Masjidu ’l-Aqsa_ (the Remote Mosque), the

precinct of which we have blessed.”

As-Suyuti says Jerusalem is specially honoured by Moslems as being the

scene of the repentance of David and Solomon. “The place where God sent

His angel to Solomon, announced glad tidings to Zacharias and John,

showed David a plan of the Temple, and put all the beasts of the earth

and fowls of the air in subjection to him. It was at Jerusalem that

the prophets sacrificed; that Jesus was born and spoke in His cradle;

and it was from Jerusalem that Jesus ascended to heaven; and it will

be there that He will again descend. Gog and Magog shall subdue every

place on the earth but Jerusalem, and it will be there that God Almighty

will destroy them. It is in the holy land of Jerusalem that Adam and

Abraham, and Isaac and Mary are buried. And in the last days there will

be a general flight to Jerusalem, when the Ark and the Shechinah will be

again restored to the Temple. There will all mankind be gathered at the

Resurrection for judgment, and God will enter, surrounded by His angels,

into the Holy Temple, when He comes to judge the earth.”

Here Al-Ghazali would see the sacred footprint of Mohammed made in the

rock on his journey to heaven; the praying places of Abraham and Elijah

would be pointed out to him; the round hole where the rock let Mohammed

through when he ascended to heaven; the holy place in the roof of the

cavern where it arose to allow him to stand erect and to pray; the tongue

with which it spoke; and the marks of the Angel Gabriel’s finger where

it had to be held down from following him in his ascension! The place is

also pointed out by Moslems to-day where Solomon tormented the demons,

and also near the eastern wall where the throne stood whereon he sat when

dead, the corpse leaning on his staff to cheat the demons until the worms

had gnawed it through and the body fell forward. All this is found in

Moslem Tradition, and must have stirred the credulity or the scepticism

of Al-Ghazali. He himself tells us in one of his books that on the last

day Israfil, who, with Gabriel and Michael, has been restored to life,

“standing on the rock of the temple of Jerusalem, will at the command

of God call together the souls from all parts, those of believers from

Paradise and the unbelievers from hell, and throw them into his trumpet.

There they will be ranged in little holes, like bees in a hive, and will,

on his giving the last sound, be thrust out and fly like bees, filling

the whole space between earth and heaven. Then they will repair to their

respective bodies. The earth will then be an immense plain without hills

or villages, and the dead, after they have risen, will sit down each one

on his tomb, anxiously waiting for what is to come.”[39]

A modern traveller describes other Moslem superstitions connected

with this Mosque. “The little arcades at the top of the steps of the

platform are called ‘Balances,’ because the scales of judgment are to be

suspended there on the Great Day. The Dome of the Chain owes its name

to the circumstance that there a golden chain hung at David’s place of

judgment, which had to be grasped by witnesses and dropped a link when a

lie was told. A place in the outer wall is shown from which a wire will

be suspended on the Day of Judgment, whose other end will be made fast

to the Mount of Olives. Christ will sit on the wall and Mohammed on the

mount. Over this wire must all men find their way, but only the good will

cross, the wicked falling into the valley beneath. In the Al-Aqsa Mosque

a couple of pillars stand very near each other, so worn that they are

perceptibly thinned. The space between them bulges, and a piece of spiked

iron work is now inserted between them. These are another test for the

final award—he who could squeeze himself between them, and he alone, had

found the true ‘narrow way to heaven.’”

We have descriptions of Jerusalem by a Moslem who wrote at the end of the

tenth, and by another of the middle of the eleventh century. The latter

estimated the population at twenty thousand, and fancied that as many

more Moslem pilgrims came to the city in the month of their pilgrimage;

Christians and Jews then visited the city as they do to-day. Both these

writers praise the place for its cleanliness, which they attribute to its

geographical position and natural drainage. Yet the history of Jerusalem

throughout this century is little more than the record of damage and

repair to Christian and Moslem sanctuaries. In A. D. 1010 the Church

of the Holy Sepulchre was destroyed by the mad Sultan Hakim. This was

followed by other humiliations of the pilgrims and persecutions, until

Peter the Hermit arose in protest and the Crusades began.

We have no information as to how Al-Ghazali spent his days during

this visit at Jerusalem. It was a time of war and tumult throughout

Syria, on the eve of the Crusades. One can imagine with what interest

Al-Ghazali studied the whole situation and how this ardent champion

of the Moslem faith was stirred by the coming events whose shadows

were already resting on the Holy Land at the time of his visit there.

We do know that he lived the life of a mystic, and devoted himself to

prayer and fasting. Prayer occupies a large place in the life of every

conscientious Moslem. Not only are there the five ritual prayers, but the

night prayer which, according to Al-Ghazali himself, must be performed

between midnight and the beginning of dawn. It has been calculated that a

Moslem conscientiously performing his devotions recites the same form of

prayer at least seventy-five times a day. In addition to these prayers,

however, there are prayers called _witr_ to be performed after the night

prayer; _dhuha_, the prayer used in the forenoon; and the prayer of night

vigils, which take place between the last evening prayer and midnight. In

addition to observing all the above mentioned prayers, those who would

reach a high degree of perfection are recommended by Al-Ghazali, in

accordance with his own practices at this period, to engage in certain

additional devotional exercises called _wird_. We may best note the

character of this mystical devotion, in which he spent whole days and

nights, by quoting in substance from the _Ihya_ as follows:

“From many verses of the Koran it appears that the only way of becoming

united with God is constant intercourse with Him. This is the object of

the devotional services called _wird_ in which the believer can engage

at all times of the day as well as the night. The _wirds_ to be observed

during the day are seven: First _wird_. The Moslem on rising early

mentions the name of God, and praises Him, reciting certain petitions;

while dressing, he recites the appointed petitions, cleans his teeth

with the _miswak_, performs the _Wudhu_, then prays two Sunna _rakaʾs_

of dawn.[40] After this he repeats a petition and goes to the mosque

with collected thoughts. He enters the mosque solemnly and respectfully

with the right foot first, saying the appointed petitions on entering

and leaving. He enters the first rank of worshippers if there be room,

and prays the two _rakaʾs_ of dawn, if he has not done so already at

home; then two _rakaʾs_ of ‘Saluting the Mosque,’ and sits down repeating

petitions and praises, awaiting the assembling of the congregation.

After having repeated the obligatory prayer of dawn, he remains sitting

in the mosque till sunrise, meditating and repeating certain petitions,

and praises a certain number of times, counting them by the rosary,

and reciting portions of the Koran. [We know that the rosary was in

general use from a reference to it in the “Assemblies” of al-Hariri, and

in Al-Ghazali’s “Alchemy of Happiness.”] The second _wird_ is between

sunrise and an advanced forenoon hour; the worshipper says a prayer of

two _rakaʾs_, and when the sun has risen the length of a lance above

the horizon two more _rakaʾs_. This is the time when the believer may

perform good works, such as visiting the sick, etc. When nothing of the

kind requires his attention, he spends his time in repeating petitions,

in _zikr_, meditation and reading the Koran. The third _wird_ is between

morning and the ascending of the sun; the believer, after taking care

of his worldly affairs, engages in the devotional exercises as before

mentioned. Between the time when the sun has become somewhat high and the

noon prayer, four _rakaʾs_ between the _Azan_ and the _Ikama_ are said

and portions of the Koran are recited; this is the fourth _wird_. The

fifth, sixth and seventh occur after this until vespers. Finally there

are the _wirds_ of the night which are five, divided and described as

follows:—First night _wird_: after sunset, when the prayer of sunset has

been performed, to the time when darkness has set in, the worshipper says

two _rakaʾs_, in which certain portions of the Koran are recited, then

four long _rakaʾs_, and as much of the Koran as time allows. This _wird_

may be performed at home; but it is preferable to do so in the mosque.

Second night _wird_: this is from the darkness of the last _ʿIsha_ to

the time when people retire to sleep. This consists of three things: (1)

the obligatory _ʿIsha_ prayer; ten _rakaʾs_, viz., four before it and

six after it; (2) performing a prayer of thirteen _rakaʾs_, the last of

which is the _witr_ prayer. In this about three hundred verses of the

Koran are to be recited. (3) The _witr_ prayer before going to sleep,

unless one is accustomed to rise in the night, when it may be performed

later on, which is more meritorious. Third night _wird_: this consists of

sleep, and sleep may well be considered a devotional act, if enjoyed in

the proper way. Fourth night _wird_: this is from the time when the first

half of the night is spent to when only one-sixth of it still remains. At

this time the believer ought to rise from sleep and perform the prayer of

_tahajjud_. This prayer is also called the _hujud_. Mohammed mostly made

it a prayer of thirteen _rakaʾs_. Fifth night _wird_: this begins with

the last sixth of the night, called the _Sahar_, the early morning before

dawn to the appearing of dawn.” To these devotional exercises, described

in the _Ihya_, it was considered meritorious to add four additional good

actions: fasting, almsgiving, visiting the sick, attending funerals;

and finally all this punctilious remembrance of God through prayer was

supplemented by what is called _dhikr_—the special method of worship used

by the Sufi saints.

Al-Ghazali describes the method and effects of this practice in a

passage which Macdonald has summarized as follows: “Let the worshipper

reduce his heart to a state in which the existence of anything and its

non-existence are the same to him. Then let him sit alone in some corner,

limiting his religious duties to what is absolutely necessary, and not

occupying himself either with reciting the Koran or considering its

meaning or with books of religious traditions or with anything of the

sort. And let him see to it that nothing save God most High enters his

mind. Then, as he sits in solitude, let him not cease saying continuously

with his tongue, ‘Allah, Allah,’ keeping his thought on it. At last he

will reach a state when the motion of his tongue will cease, and it will

seem as though the word flowed from it. Let him persevere in this until

all trace of motion is removed from his tongue, and he finds his heart

persevering in the thought. Let him still persevere until the form of the

word, its letters and shape, is removed from his heart, and there remains

the idea alone, as though clinging to his heart, inseparable from it. So

far, all is dependent on his will and choice; but to bring the mercy of

God does not stand in his will or choice. He has now laid himself bare

to the breathings of that mercy, and nothing remains but to wait what

God will open to him, as God has done after this manner to prophets and

saints. If he follows the above course, he may be sure that the light of

the Real will shine out in his heart. At first unstable, like a flash of

lightning, it turns and returns; though sometimes it hangs back. And if

it returns, sometimes it abides and sometimes it is momentary. And if it

abides, sometimes its abiding is long, and sometimes short.”

Such is the teaching of Al-Ghazali in regard to the true life of devotion

and such we may believe was his own practice at Damascus and Jerusalem

during the years that followed his life of exile—the endless repetition

of God’s great names and “prayer without ceasing” in the Moslem sense.

One wonders what part of the day remained for the literary work and

teaching in which we know he was also engaged.[41]

An interesting story is told of his life at Jerusalem in these words:

“There came together the Imams Abu Hamid Al-Ghazali and Ismail Al-Kakimi

and Ibrahim Ash-Shibaki and Abu-l-Hasan Al-Basri, and a large number of

foreign elders, in the Cradle of ʾIsa (upon him be peace!) in Jerusalem,

and he (Al-Ghazali, apparently) recited these two lines:

“‘May I be thy ransom! were it not for love thou wouldst have

ransomed me, but by the magic of two eye-pupils thou hast

taken me captive.

I came to thee when my breast was straitened through love, and

if thou hadst known how was my longing, thou wouldst have

come to me.’

Then Abu-l-Hasan Al-Basri constrained himself to an ecstasy which

affected those that were present, and eyes wept and garments were rent

and Mohammed Al-Kazaruni died in the midst of the assembly in ecstasy.”

In Jerusalem he is said to have written his _Risalat Al-Qudsiya_; and the

date of his visit there must have been shortly before A. H. 492, for in

that year Jerusalem was captured by the Crusaders.[42]

It was natural for one of Al-Ghazali’s temperament to desire to pay

homage also at the tomb of Abraham, whom Moslems delight to call the

“Friend of God.” The religion of Islam is continually called the religion

of Abraham in the Koran. Tradition locates the so-called Machpelah

Cave in the eastern part of the present-day Hebron, on the edge of the

valley, and the mosque which now stands there is supposed to enclose the

grave. Hebron is about seventeen miles southwest of Jerusalem. Before

the twelfth century the Cave of Machpelah began to attract visitors

and pilgrims. “Benjamin of Tudela relates: ‘At Hebron there is a large

place of worship called “St. Abraham,” which was previously a Jewish

synagogue. The natives erected there six sepulchres, which they tell

foreigners are those of the Patriarchs and their wives, demanding money

as a condition of seeing them. If a Jew gives an additional fee to

the keeper of the cave, an iron door which dates from the time of our

forefathers opens, and the visitor descends with a lighted candle. He

crosses two empty caves, and in the third sees six tombs, on which the

names of the three Patriarchs and their wives are inscribed in Hebrew

characters. The cave is filled with barrels containing bones of people,

which are taken there as to a sacred place. At the end of the field of

the Machpelah stands Abraham’s house with a spring in front of it.’”[43]

The mosque of Hebron, over the tomb of Abraham, consists at present of a

quadrangular platform about seventy yards long by thirty-five wide. The

tomb which it covers is one of the sites which few Christian eyes have

seen. It is permitted to none but Moslems to approach nearer the entrance

than the seventh step of the staircase along the eastern wall.[44]

[Illustration: The dome of the rock, Jerusalem, as seen from the Lutheran

Church.]

Hebron is one of the oldest cities in the world and legends of all sorts

have gathered about the place. Even in Al-Ghazali’s day it was spoken of

as the place of Adam’s creation and death, the scene of Abel’s murder,

and the place where Abraham made his home.

After Al-Ghazali’s visit to Hebron he probably made his pilgrimage

to Mecca. Whether the journey was made by sea or by land, we do not

know. In any case it was full of peril at that period. Very possibly

Al-Ghazali took the long caravan journey, following the route of the

Damascus pilgrimage in our day. It was considered proper, however, to

visit Mecca first, and Medina on the return journey. Al-Ghazali himself

advises this in his directions for the correct performance of the rites

of pilgrimage.[45]

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