| Miles. | |
+--------+-------+ Hours |
Place. | Inter- | Total | (Inter- | Description.
|mediate.| from |mediate).|
| |Assiut.| |
----------+--------+-------+---------+----------------------------------
| | | H. M. |
| | | |
Maks, from| — | 189 | — |
Assiut | | | |
| | | |
Kasr Argi | 2 | 191 | 0 35 |A small rocky mound, with a ruin;
or Ein El | | | |near it is a good spring. Another
Kasr | | | |mound, with spring and ruin, also
| | | |bears the same name.
| | | |
Garid Abu | 11 | 202 | 3 17 |A rocky granite hill, about 150
Baian | | | |feet high, on E. of road. The
| | | |road, which up to this point has
| | | |been along a broad, shallow
| | | |valley, with a bed of firm gravel,
| | | |now enters for a few miles hills
| | | |of very deep sand, across which
| | | |there is no track.
| | | |
J. Wagif | 26½ | 228½ | 9 0 |Meaning “stopping place.” A
(J. Harif)| | | |solitary mound of rock 80 feet
| | | |high. It appears to have been used
| | | |as a signal station, there being
| | | |remains of a fire on the summit.
| | | |Stone roadmarks and several
| | | |graves. One day trotting from here
| | | |to either Beris or Bir Murr.
| | | |
Jebel | 8 | 236½ | — |Shersha = Xerxes. Ancient Persian
Mishersha | | | |outpost, possibly water. Long, low
(Um | | | |cliff on E. of road. Small
Shersha) | | | |hillocks 4 miles further on, close
| | | |to road and opposite S. end of
| | | |Shersha, are called Gara El
| | | |Maghatia.
| | | |
Jebel El | 11 | 247½ | — |Hillock on road where merchandise
Magazan | | | |used to be left.
| | | |
El Garun | 11½ | 259 | — |Two little knolls; a road to S.W.
| | | |branches off to Darfur, according
| | | |to Arabs.
| | | |
| | | |Three miles further on begins a
| | | |low limestone plateau, which
| | | |extends up to and beyond Bir
| | | |Murra. This limestone is the only
| | | |landmark for the wells, as no high
| | | |hills are visible near.
| | | |
_Bir | 7 | 266 | 16 15 |Two large holes, each 3 to 4 feet
Murra_ | | | |deep. Plenty of water, rather
| | | |salt, but camels will drink it.
| | | |Jebel el Murra is a narrow, ridge-
| | | |shaped hill, 80 feet high,
| | | |overlooking the wells. Colvile
| | | |says:—“It is a promontory 3 miles
| | | |N. of the wells, and running out
| | | |of the low range of hills on the
| | | |E. of the road. It is easily to be
| | | |recognised by a conical rock,
| | | |balanced on its apex, on the top
| | | |of a small mound.”
| | | |
_Kassaba_ | 67 | 333 | 25 10 |A group of dom palms, water 7 feet
| | | |down, bitter and nitrous. Approach
| | | |from N. by a narrow gorge down the
| | | |sandstone cliff (120 feet high),
| | | |which bounds the wells also on the
| | | |W.; E, and S. the ground is open.
| | | |
| | | |From Kassaba a road leads in a
| | | |S.E. direction over ridges for 25
| | | |miles to the wells of Nakhla,
| | | |whence the road continues for a
| | | |further 79 miles to the Nile,
| | | |opposite Halfa.
| | | |
_(Nakhla)_| — | — | — |Nakhla or Saafi, is so termed from
| | | |a palm tree on a small, sandy,
| | | |grass knoll which overlooks the
| | | |wells. Surrounding this knoll is a
| | | |narrow valley, about 80 yards
| | | |broad, to the E. and S. Throughout
| | | |this valley water can be obtained
| | | |by digging at a depth of from 3½
| | | |to 5 feet. The water does not run
| | | |in very rapidly, but the earth is
| | | |so light that the well can be dug
| | | |very rapidly, filling to about 9
| | | |inches in six hours; water good
| | | |and abundant (February). In the S.
| | | |there is rising ground with a
| | | |slight command. To the E. the
| | | |ground rises slightly, but is
| | | |lower than the date palm hill. To
| | | |the N.E. there is a lofty sand
| | | |hill, at a distance from the date
| | | |palm hill of over 1,200 yards.
| | | |
| | | |Blockhouse, built 1894 (now
| | | |unoccupied).
| | | |
(The Sheb | — | — | — |Kassaba forms the apex of the
District) | | | |triangular Sheb district, which
| | | |holds numerous wells, the names of
| | | |which are often confused. The
| | | |western side of the triangle is
| | | |formed by a range of sandstone
| | | |cliffs, running S.W., along the
| | | |base of which the Arbaïn road
| | | |continues from Kassaba to Sheb.
| | | |The base of the triangle is the
| | | |road from Sheb to Nakhla, and the
| | | |centre is an open plain.
| | | |
Shebba[36]| 15 | 348 | 6 5 |A district covered with low sand
(or Abu | | | |hills, and studded with dom palms.
Dom?) | | | |Water is said to be obtainable by
| | | |digging in most parts of it; that
| | | |at the N. end is bad. A well at
| | | |the southern end gives a good and
| | | |plentiful supply. There are three
| | | |patches of camel grazing in the
| | | |district, each patch being about
| | | |sufficient for 400 camels for one
| | | |day. From here a road branches off
| | | |gradually to the S.W. to the wells
| | | |of Terfawi (Id Koraim, or Abu
_Terfawi_ | — | — | — |Taraf), 8 miles on, lying in a
| | | |broad valley, under the cliff
| | | |above mentioned. Good water 3 feet
| | | |below the surface. Forty old palms
| | | |and numerous smaller ones, and two
| | | |dom palms, no grazing. This
| | | |Terfawi road is often used as an
| | | |alternative branch of the Arbaïn
| | | |road, and rejoins it further S.
| | | |Terfawi to Beris is reckoned at
| | | |five days. There appears to be a
| | | |direct road from Terfawi to Lagia,
| | | |five days over level ground
| | | |covered with stones.
| | | |
_Sheb_ | 10 | 358 | — |A blockhouse was built here in
| | | |1894 to guard against raids by the
| | | |Dervishes, and was attacked on
| | | |Jan. 8, 1895. Water slightly
| | | |brackish, but plenty of it; a
| | | |little grazing. Road from here
| | | |N.W. to Terfawi, 5½ miles. Road E.
| | | |to Nakhla, 40 miles, contains
| | | |wells or underground water at El
| | | |Haad, 5, Sederi, 5, Bir Suleiman,
| | | |13, and Bir Hasab el Gabu, 9 miles
| | | |intermediate. From Sheb the roads
| | | |lead S., over easy ground for the
| | | |most part, to the oasis of Selima.
| | | |
_Selima_ | 82 | 440 | 27 45 |Named after a legendary Amazon
| | | |Princess (?). A small oasis,
| | | |commanded on all sides by rocky
| | | |hills, those on the N. being
| | | |considerably higher and steeper.
| | | |The water, obtained from numerous
| | | |wells about 2 feet deep, is
| | | |sufficient for a force of 1,000
| | | |men. It has a strong sulphurous
| | | |taste and smell. The oasis is
| | | |uninhabited, but is occasionally
| | | |visited by the neighbouring tribes
| | | |for the sake of the salt and dates
| | | |which are found there. The salt
| | | |lies in beds covered by 1 to 3
| | | |feet of sand, and has to be broken
| | | |out.
| | | |
| | | |There are some 2,000 fruit-bearing
| | | |date palms, but these are at
| | | |present choked in a thick
| | | |undergrowth. Dates very good.
| | | |
| | | |There is plenty of grazing.
| | | |
| | | |From Selima a road leads in a S.E.
| | | |direction for 80 miles to Sagiet
| | | |El Abd, on the Nile. No water on
| | | |the way.
| | | |
| | | |For further description of this
| | | |oasis, _vide_ Part I., Chap. IX.,
| | | |pp. 202-3.
----------+--------+-------+---------+----------------------------------
(_c._)—SELIMA TO LAGIA.
(Lieut. Stuart Wortley, July, 1884; Captain H. Hodgson, 1901,
1903, &c.)
-------------+---------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
+-------------+-------+
Place. | | Total | Description.
|Intermediate.| from |
| |Assiut.|
-------------+-------------+-------+----------------------------------
_Selima_, | — | 440 |On leaving Selima the track, well
from Assiut | | |defined by camel skeletons, goes
| | |in a westerly direction for 6
| | |miles over hard sand, after which
| | |it turns S.W.; small conical hills
| | |to W. for 30 miles. Occasional
| | |camel skeletons, but no track.
| | |Succession of rocky ridges.
| | |
| 33 | 473 |High conical hill to W. Extensive
| | |view. All hills crossed are steep
| | |on the N. side, and slope
| | |gradually to the S. (This is
| | |reversed at Selima and Lagia.)
| | |Going rocky and bad.
| | |
J. Hadada and| 24 | 497 |Pass between these two hills, J.
J. Hamadia | | |Hadada to the E. Low ranges of
| | |hills, running S.E. and N.W.
| | |
| 40 | 537 |Descend into hard sandy plain,
| | |extending for 20 miles. Country
| | |then becomes very rocky and
| | |difficult for camels; no track
| | |discernible. Range of sand hills
| | |to W. called J. Ruhilat.
| | |
| | |J. Gabra, a round-topped hill,
| | |rising out of valley called Lagia,
| | |seen from a distance of 35 miles.
| | |Road descends by a gorge of deep
| | |sand into the valley 10 miles long
| | |and 1 mile broad, running E. and
| | |W.
| | |
_Lagia | 43 | 580 |Water about 4 miles from the
(Kebir)_ | | [37] |gorge. Three wells filled with
| | |sand water, water has to be
| | |cleared, or fresh well opened,
| | |otherwise it gets bad. Water good
| | |in itself. No vegetation; water 6
| | |feet below surface; country
| | |barren; petrified wood abundant.
| | |Several tracks cross here.
| | |
| | |Captain Hodgson states:—
| | |
| | |
| | |At Lagia Kebir, or Agar, are five
| | |or six pans of water, good and
| | |near the surface, springing from
| | |similar soil to Lagia the Less,
| | |but not so abundant. The wells lie
| | |in an open plain, no vegetation
| | |near except about six or ten small
| | |trees about 3½ miles to W., giving
| | |a little feeding for camels. To
| | |the N. the plain is shut in by a
| | |steep rocky ridge of hills, and
| | |the road to Selima Wells lies
| | |across it. On reaching summit of
| | |ridge there is only a stretch of
| | |rock and stones to be seen. Arabs
| | |state it is the road to Selima and
| | |there is no grazing.
| | |
| | |In the event of not finding a
| | |water pan open, the water lies
| | |some 20 yards S. of a low clump of
| | |date seedlings, the only ones in
| | |the valley. There are some black
| | |rocks in the plain, on the track
| | |from Bir Sultan, which lie 2,700
| | |yards (by range-finder) from the
| | |abovementioned dates, and at an
| | |angle of 228° from them.
| | |
_(Lagia | — | — |Lagia the Less, lying 12½ miles
Amran)_ | | |E.S.E. of Lagia Kebir, also called
| | |Amran from the colour of the
| | |ground, lies in a plain about 5
| | |miles wide, surrounded entirely by
| | |rocky hills; there are only two
| | |entrances through encircling hills
| | |that are easy marching. Water lies
| | |within a foot of the surface and
| | |is very plentiful; ground consists
| | |of red clay with drifts of sand,
| | |the Arabs say there was formerly
| | |no sand, and that during the last
| | |few years it is gradually covering
| | |the ground, probably owing to dry
| | |seasons.
| | |
_(Lagia bil | — | — |Some bushes half a mile from the
Hêt)_ | | |water. At a distance of one day’s
| | |journey to the E. of Lagia there
| | |is said to be a well, called Lagia
| | |bil Hêt, on account of a Roman
| | |wall built close by (?) (Omar et
| | |Tunsi).
| | |
| | |To the S. the road to Bir Sultan
| | |lies across an open plain and is
| | |easy going. The tracks spread
| | |considerably.
| | |
| | |An oasis is reported to lie 4
| | |days’ journey in a S.W. direction,
| | |containing date trees, which is
| | |visited at date harvest time by
| | |the Bedai tribe. The water is said
| | |to be bad. Except for the above,
| | |the guides say they have no
| | |knowledge of any water to the W.
| | |of Lagia, and that there is no
| | |road with a direction of N. and S.
| | |lying to the W. of Lagia. The road
| | |Lagia Kebir to Dongola is 166
| | |miles in a S.E. direction: 7 days’
| | |march.
-------------+-------------+-------+----------------------------------
(_d._) LAGIA, _viâ_ BIR SULTAN, TO EL FASHER.
Captain H. Hodgson, Browne, and Natives.
Very little is known of this, the southern half of the Arbaïn road,
and no European (since Browne, 1793, who left no record of any value)
seems ever to have traversed it south of Bir Sultan.
From Lagia to Bir Sultan is 5[38] days’ going over easy country.
-------------+---------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
+-------------+-------+
Place. | | Total | Description.
|Intermediate.| from |
| |Assiut.|
-------------+-------------+-------+----------------------------------
_Lagia_ | — | 580 |On leaving Lagia the going is
| | |fair.
| | |
| 47 | 627 |Low rocky mounds; dozens of empty
| | |paraffin tins lying about; place
| | |where caravans leave store and
| | |forage. Easy going, hard sand.
| | |
| 35 | 662 |Sand dunes to E. of track,
| | |continue for 5 miles. Road slopes
| | |slightly down hill, direction
| | |210°.
| | |
| 37 | 699 |Large black stone 10 feet high by
| | |roadside, 18 inches wide and 9
| | |inches thick. Landmark visible for
| | |long way from N. Marching becomes
| | |difficult.
| | |
| 10 | 709 |Low hill, distinctive landmark;
| | |black rock with white gypsum top,
| | |with pile of black rocks on top.
| | |
J. Kashaf, | 28 | 737 |Hilly rocky country, with gradual
_Bir Sultan_ | | |descent to J. Kashaf, which lies a
| | |short distance N.W. of Bir Sultan.
-------------+-------------+-------+----------------------------------
Bir Sultan, otherwise known as Wadi Natrun (the Natron Valley),
Bir el Melha, or Bir Zaghawa, lies in the centre of a plain, bounded
by hills to the N.W., N., and E. Three or four pans of good water;
ground below the sand being white clay. A little N.W. lie the natron
diggings, the natron being in a seam 2 inches deep, a few inches
below the sandy surface. One and a half miles E. of the natron is
J. Kashaf. Plenty of scrub and grazing. At Melani, under the eastern
slope, the soil is quite damp.
Bir Sultan lies 10 days due W. of Old Dongola.
Zaghawa, which is marked on some maps as a definite place, is the name
of the district inhabited by the nomad Arab tribe of that name. It
is full of khors and wells, and is stated to be 4 days to S.W. of Bir
Sultan. There is a little-used track from Lagia which passes through
Zaghawa district and proceeds towards El Fasher, but it is not the
Arbaïn Road. The Zaghawa people often come to the Bir Sultan.
From Bir Sultan to El Fasher the accounts of the road are
contradictory. One account states that it is 10 days hard travelling,
without water on the road, and that camels have to be specially
trained for the journey. Other accounts say that from Bir Sultan to
J. Meidob,[39] or to Bir Maharia (water at either place), the journey
takes 4 to 5 days; on to Toma, in the midst of a cultivated populous
district, 3 days; and on to El Fasher 1 day more. Another road appears
to lead _viâ_ Anka, 7 days from Fasher, and is said to take 15 days
altogether; this is the one said to be generally used.
(Browne, in 1793, went from Bir El Melha (Sultan), _viâ_ Medwa (?),
S.W. to Wadi Mazruk and then S.E. to Kobe, but left a very meagre
description of the actual journey.)
RECAPITULATION, showing approximate distances and days’ journey.
--------------------------+-------+---------
Place. | Miles.| Days.
--------------------------+-------+---------
Assiut | — | —
| |
Kharga | 126| 5
| |
Bulak | 15| ½
| |
Beris | 38| 1½
| |
Maks | 9| }
| | } 3
Bir Murra | 78| }
| |
Kassaba | 67| 2½
| |
Sheb | 25| 1
| |
Selima | 82| 3
| |
Lagia | 140| 5
| |
Bir Sultan | 157| 6
| |
J. Meidob (J. Anka 270) | 190| 7
| |
El Fasher (El Fasher 110) | 140| 5½
+-------+---------
| 1,067| 40
--------------------------+-------+---------
123.—ASWAN TO DERAHEIB.
COMPILED FROM A REPORT BY MR. JENNINGS-BRAMLY (1902).
_N.B.—Distances only approximate, and may be underestimated._
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
_Aswan_ | — | — |The road from Aswan to the well of
| | |Um Habal passes through a country
| | |destitute of any vegetation, but
| | |the road is well marked, being
| | |constantly used by the Eshabab
| | |charcoal burners going to Aswan,
| | |and the Bisharin, who go to the
| | |same market to buy corn.
| | |
| | |The two most marked points are the
| | |J. Butitulub, from which the tomb
| | |on the hill opposite the Aswan
| | |Commandania can be seen, and J.
| | |Umsuan on the Demhit range. The
| | |distance from Aswan to Bir Um
_Bir Um Habal_| 43 | 43 |Habal is a good day and a half
| | |with hamla. Bir Um Habal had
| | |plenty of good water at about 30
| | |feet from the surface in June, but
| | |the level varies according to
| | |rainfall, though, according to the
| | |Arabs, water is never at any great
| | |distance from the surface.
| | |
| | |From Bir Um Habal the road still
| | |lies through the hills, but soon
| | |leaving these crosses an open
| | |sandy plain, without vegetation of
| | |any kind. At the end of the first
| | |day after leaving Um Habal the
| | |road again winds between small
| | |rocky hills. The hills of J. Negib
| | |were evidently at one time mined,
| | |as there are the remains of old
| | |houses and signs of the quartz
| | |having been worked in many places.
| | |
_Bir Negib_ | 55 | 98 |Wadi Negib has a few sayal trees;
| | |the water is good and plentiful.
_Bir Heimer_ | 6 | 104 |Bir Heimer, about 3 hours’ march
| | |south, was formerly garrisoned by
| | |the Eshabab. There is always water
| | |there. The wadis we now passed had
| | |always a certain amount of camel
| | |fodder, but the grazing would be
| | |sufficient only for a small number
| | |of animals, and it would be
| | |necessary to go some way from the
| | |beaten track to find it. Once
| | |Jebel Gedir is reached the track
| | |runs through small wadis with
| | |hilly sides, and soon the Wadi
| | |Murra is reached; some way up this
| | |wadi there is a well, Bir Murra,
| | |which, as its name denotes, is
_Bir Murra_ | 18 | 122 |bitter.
| | |
| | |Once the Wadi Murra is reached the
| | |hills are left behind, and after
| | |about 5 miles the Wadi Alagi is
| | |reached; the wadi here is nothing
| | |but a flat bed of sand held in
| | |between low slate hills. The Wadi
_Ongwat_ | 16 | 138 |Ongwat, now followed, is at its
| | |junction with the Wadi Alagi
| | |profusely grown with handal
| | |(Colocynth) plant; but has only a
| | |few trees. The well of Ongwat is
| | |in the hills of J. Ongwat; it is
| | |not more than 3 feet deep, and has
| | |plenty of good water.
| | |
| | |The Bir Ongwat is the boundary
| | |between the Eshabab and Aliab
| | |tribes, though the well itself
| | |belongs to the Eshabab. A road
| | |runs from Bir Ongwat to Bir Abu
| | |Tabag; but the most direct road to
J. Maksam | — | — |Bir Eigat is straight to J.
| | |Maksam, high red granite hills, in
| | |which, after rain, much good water
| | |can be found. Through one end of
| | |the granite hills, before reaching
| | |El Deiga, a road runs, joining
| | |Heimer and Abu Tabag direct.
| | |
| | |The Wadi Alagi is very broad
| | |opposite J. Maksam, with only a
| | |tree here and there growing in its
| | |bed. At times during the rains
| | |this part of the wadi is
| | |cultivated. El Deiga, a pass
| | |through which the Wadi Alagi cuts
| | |the small hills at the northern
| | |extremity of J. Maksam, is also a
| | |boundary between the Eshabab and
| | |Eliab. The Wadi Alagi, from El
| | |Deiga to Bir Jugub, is bounded by
| | |small hills to the south and
| | |rather larger to the north. Except
| | |for a sayal or selem tree here and
| | |there no vegetation is to be found
| | |in the wadi.
| | |
Jugub | 40 | 178 |In the Wadi Jugub there is a well
| | |belonging to the Aliab
| | |(Kurbeilab), which is sometimes
| | |opened according to the pasturage.
| | |This wadi had more vegetation than
| | |any we had passed up to that time;
| | |there were growing besides the
| | |ordinary selem a few marakh trees.
| | |
| | |From Jugub to Eigat the road
| | |leaves the Alagi, passing through
| | |low hills to the north. J. Eigat
| | |can be seen from Jebel Jugub, and
| | |it could also be seen from J.
| | |Maksam if that hill were climbed.
| | |
| | |There is a continuous line of high
| | |hills from Bir Jugub to El Eigat,
| | |running nearly parallel with the
| | |road at some 5 miles to the north.
| | |These were El Jugub, J. Hadaiber,
_Eigat_ | 27 | 205 |J. Adrak, J. Eigat. The Wadi Eigat
| | |is well grown with marakh, heglig,
| | |sayal, selem, tundub and usher. It
| | |is a great contrast in its
| | |greenness to the Wadi Alagi, left
| | |the day before. The water at Eigat
| | |is near the surface, sometimes
| | |running, and at no time in the
| | |year more than a few feet down.
| | |The well belongs to the Aliab
| | |tribe.
| | |
| | |There are at Eigat many signs that
| | |in olden times the hills were
| | |extensively mined. The road from
| | |Eigat to Bir Neshd in the Wadi
| | |Alagi is bad, but passable, though
| | |hamla camels have some trouble in
| | |passing.
| | |
| | |The easier road, though four or
| | |five times longer, is down the
| | |Wadi Eigat and then across into
| | |the Alagi, which it follows to
| | |Neshd. Everywhere among the hills,
| | |from Eigat to the Alagi, along the
| | |direct road, are signs of old
| | |mining colonies. The Alagi here is
| | |green with vegetation, the arak
| | |grows everywhere, with marakh and
| | |heglig, and of course sayal and
| | |selem trees.
| | |
_Neshd_ | 10 | 215 |The well of Neshd, about half a
| | |mile up the Wadi Neshd, on the
| | |southern side of the Alagi,
| | |belongs to the Kurbeilab-Aliab.
| | |There is always good water here,
| | |but, owing to the rocks, camels
| | |cannot approach right up to the
_Kamotit_ | 4½ | 219½ |well. At Bir Kamotit, which is
| | |some half a mile up the wadi, the
| | |water is good but rather tainted
| | |by the herds that water at it.
| | |This well is the property of the
| | |Hadl family.
| | |
| | |From Bir Kamotit to the Deraheib
| | |the road always follows the Wadi
| | |Alagi, which is everywhere well
| | |grown with sayal, the bean of
| | |which is excellent food for sheep,
| | |goats or camels. We saw many
| | |traces of the wild donkey, but did
| | |not actually see one.
| | |
Deraheib | 9½ | 229 |Old mining colony. No well.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
124.—KASSALA TO MASSAUA.
BY LIEUTENANT H. H. S. MORANT (1898); COMPLETED WITH MATERIAL TAKEN
FROM REPORTS BY COLONEL HON. M. G. TALBOT (1900) AND MR. F. B. HOHLER
(1901).
[Sidenote: General Description. The road.]
The general direction of Massaua from Kassala is almost due E. From
Sabderat to Keren the Italians have cleared a roadway about 50
feet in width, from which most of the stones and all vegetation,
except an occasional large baobab tree, have been cleared. It is
so clearly marked that a stranger could march by it even on a dark
night. The only point of any difficulty is the low saddle at Bisha,
where there was still room for a good deal of work (1900). In its
long straight lines it reminds one strongly of the old Roman roads;
it crosses ravines and water-courses at whatever angle it happens to
strike them, but at many of the steeper ascents and descents narrow
ramps have been cut. In several places along it the Italians have
made new masonry wells.
The accompanying road report was made before the construction of this
newly cleared road—which from Sabderat to Daura Obel passes N. of
the old route, _viâ_ Algeden and Eladal—and there is no detailed
information at hand as to the water supply along that portion of the
route, though there is said to be no difficulty in this respect for
the ordinary traveller.
From Keren to Asmara, and thence after many zig-zags to Saati,
there is an excellent driving road about 14 feet wide, with the
exception of a length of about 6 miles before reaching Azteklezan,
which had not (April, 1900) been completed to the full width, but was
then practicable for wheeled vehicles. Throughout the length of this
metalled road the gradients are occasionally of necessity rather steep;
the kilometers are marked throughout.
[Sidenote: Country.]
From Kassala to Keren the general character of the country strongly
resembles much of that between Kassala and Suakin, and consists as
a rule of level waterless plains of firm soil, at times sandy or
gravelly, covered with fine short grass and scattered bushes of the
acacia tribe, and intersected here and there by shallow sandy khors,
which during the rainy season carry off the drainage from the rocky
volcanic hills and granite koppies, which are so characteristic of
this particular part of Africa.
From Keren to Massaua the character of the country entirely changes and
the waterless plains and thorny acacias of the Kassala-Keren route are
replaced by running streams and precipitous mountains, overgrown with
euphorbia and wild olives, both on the ascent to the Asmara plateau,
as well as in the descent to the maritime plain of Massaua.
[Sidenote: Transport animals.]
For the entire journey mules are most suitable, but as far as Keren
camels answer admirably. From Keren to Massaua, _viâ_ Asmara, wheeled
vehicles, mules or horses. If the direct desert route from Keren to
Massaua be taken, camels are desirable, if not indispensable.
[Sidenote: Supplies.]
Milk, goats, cattle, &c., are found, as elsewhere in the Sudan,
throughout the route.
There are occasional small canteens at intervals, and fair stores at
Keren, and some good shops at Asmara and Massaua, where most ordinary
requirements are obtainable.
[Sidenote: Water.]
If desired to move a force larger than a company along this route,
enquiries as to state of water supply should be made, as it varies
considerably according to the time of year.
[Sidenote: Inhabitants.]
Speaking generally, the inhabitants between Kassala-Keren are
Beni-Amer; after that a bastard type of Abyssinian, &c.
[Sidenote: Climate.]
The climate along this route is on the whole good. Between
Kassala-Keren and Ginda-Massaua it is decidedly hot in March, April,
and May—probably in other months also. These are also the more
feverish portions of the route, though probably no part of it is
so unhealthy as Kassala. Between the sea and Agordat there occur
in April what the Italians call the “little rains,” which mean
very heavy thunder-storms; these cease before the end of the month,
and the rainy season proper begins towards the end of May.
The climate on the Asmara plateau is said to be delightful, though
perhaps the rains are excessive.
[Sidenote: Game.]
There is little or no game along this route, except between Kassala and
Keren, where ariel, gazelle, dig-dig, and guinea fowl may be met with.
ROUTE (JANUARY TO MARCH).
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Kassala | — | — |Head Quarters of the Kassala
| | |Province (fully described in Vol.
| | |I). From here the road follows the
| | |telegraph line and runs nearly due
| | |E. between Jebels Mokrani and
| | |Kassala, over a level more or less
_Sabderat_ | 17 | 17 |open plain to Sabderat, the
| | |village of which name is situated
| | |on the northern side of the gorge,
| | |through which flows Khor Tamarat,
| | |and is about 1½ miles on the
| | |Italian side of the frontier,
| | |which is plainly marked by
| | |pillars. Here there is a telegraph
| | |office and well with a never-
| | |failing and plentiful supply of
| | |good water.
| | |
| | |From this point a road has been
| | |cleared by the Italians which runs
| | |nearly perfectly straight to the
| | |vicinity of Daura Obel, where it
| | |bends to the S., and thence
_Metaui_ | 10 | 27 |follows the old track. This latter
(Algeden) | | |leads from Sabderat to Metaui,
| | |where a good well was found (in
| | |1898). The Arabs using the well,
| | |however, apparently live at a
| | |distance, and were not seen.
| | |
| | |From here the road ascends a col,
| | |and high ground continues on the
| | |right for about 5 miles, after
| | |which the road leads over a level
| | |bush-covered plain, and after
| | |passing two unimportant detached
| | |jebels, a well, named Aradeb,
_Aradeb_ | 12½ | 39½ |close to the northern end of the
| | |second jebel, is reached. Plenty
| | |of shade, but very little water
| | |(April, 1898). The path continues
| | |good over a level plain with
_Eladal_ | 12½ | 52 |scattered bush until Eladal is
| | |reached. Here there is a telegraph
| | |office, but only one well with
| | |extremely little water (April,
| | |1898). Continuing, the track,
| | |after crossing a low saddle,
| | |traverses a defile with high rocky
| | |jebels on either side for about 5
| | |miles, and then, after crossing a
| | |wooded basin, ascends a high
| | |saddleback, from the summit of
| | |which a fine view is obtainable.
| | |From here the track descends by a
_Daura Obel_ | 14 | 66 |rather steep and rocky pass to the
| | |wells of Daura Obel, which lie in
| | |the bed of a khor which finds an
| | |exit to the S., being shut in on
| | |three sides by high ground. After
| | |2 miles this high ground is left
| | |behind, and a similar distance
| | |further on another khor is
| | |crossed, apparently flowing N. It
| | |must be somewhere near this point
| | |that the new-cleared road
| | |previously referred to joins in.
| | |
| | |A level plain, covered with open
| | |bush, is now traversed, and after
| | |passing between two detached
_Bisha_ | 14 | 80 |hills, Bisha is reached. Here
| | |there is a telegraph office and
| | |small village, situated on the
| | |side of the hill, about 1½ miles
| | |N.E. of the well, where there
| | |appeared to be plenty of water
| | |(April, 1898). Two miles from the
| | |well the road crosses the top of a
| | |saddle from which a good view E.
| | |and W. is obtainable. The road
| | |then descends a stony ravine,
| | |about 1 mile in length, and a sign
| | |board was passed, pointing S., “To
_Shaglet_ | 12 | 92 |Well”; thence across the usual
| | |bush-covered plain to Shaglet,
| | |where there are rest tukls and
| | |many dom palms. In the khor close
| | |by, a tributary of the Baraka,
| | |there are several good wells.
| | |
| | |From near Shaglet the hills of
| | |Agordat are visible, and after
| | |traversing a plain (the scene of
| | |the first battle of Agordat)
| | |covered with scattered bush and
| | |intersected by several khors, the
| | |dom palms fringing the Khor Baraka
| | |are reached at the foot of the
| | |hills (100 feet high?), on which
_Agordat_ | 14 | 106 |are built the twin fortresses of
| | |Agordat. These, however, are both
| | |commanded within artillery range
| | |from the S. There are one or more
| | |wells with any amount of good
| | |water to which there is a covered
| | |way from the main fort. Population
| | |8,000. But few stores can be
| | |purchased here. The climate is hot
| | |and considered unhealthy, though
| | |it is the only station in the
| | |colony, except perhaps Massawa,
| | |that can be compared with Kassala
| | |in that respect.
| | |
| | |The road now crosses the sandy bed
| | |of the Khor Baraka and traverses
| | |an undulating, tolerably open
| | |plain (the scene of the second
| | |fight with the Dervishes), and
| | |recrossing the Baraka about 7
| | |miles further on continues up its
| | |valley to Adarte, where there are
_Adarte_ | 17 | 123 |wells with rather a meagre water
| | |supply. From here the path
| | |continues up the scattered bush-
| | |covered valley of a tributary of
| | |the Baraka, until Agat is reached;
_Agat_ | 10 | 133 |here there are several wells, and
| | |water seems plentiful. After
| | |leaving Agat, the valley narrows
| | |considerably, though the plain
| | |which bears slight indications of
| | |cultivation (the first seen since
| | |leaving Kassala) continues level
| | |until reaching the foot of the
| | |somewhat steep ascent to the
| | |plateau (4,470 feet approx.) on
_Keren_ | 11 | 144 |which the fortress and town of
| | |Keren are situated. This of course
| | |belonged to Egypt in the old days,
| | |and was then known as Senhit, from
| | |the name of a small village still
| | |existing. The fort, which is built
| | |on a detached hill about 150 feet
| | |high, contains a well, but is
| | |itself commanded by the hills to
| | |the S. and S.W. within
| | |comparatively easy artillery
| | |range.
| | |
| | |The water supply is good, but fuel
| | |is scarce in the immediate
| | |neighbourhood. There is a rather
| | |large market, some good stores,
| | |canteens, Post and Telegraph
| | |Office, &c. The climate here is
| | |comparatively cool and healthy.
| | |
| | |After quitting Keren, the general
| | |character of the country changes
| | |almost at once, and a series of
| | |precipitous hills and mountains,
| | |with perennial streams, are
| | |encountered.
| | |
| | |The best route to Massaua is that
| | |by the new metalled coach road
| | |_viâ_ Asmara. This road, after
| | |traversing undulating country for
_Khor Anseba_ | 6½ | 150½ |about 8½ miles crosses the bed of
| | |the Khor Anseba, in which are
| | |pools during most of the dry
| | |season.
| | |
| | |From here there is an almost
| | |continuous ascent till reaching
| | |Azteklesan.
| | |
_Halibaret_ | 6½ | 157 |Six and a half miles further on
| | |the narrow stream of Halibaret is
| | |met; good running water.
| | |
| | |From here there is a direct
| | |caravan route to Massaua, but
| | |water along it is rather scarce,
| | |especially in the dry season.
| | |
| | |[The following is an account:—
| | |
[_Halibaret_ | — | 157 |Leaving Halibaret by the direct
| | |track at the bottom of the valley
| | |the path is open, level, and easy.
| | |There is a little water to be
| | |found in the valley of the Maldi,
| | |but it is scarce in the Beloa
| | |valley, which is quite dry from
| | |January to June. The descent to
| | |the Beloa is bad. From Magasas
| | |there is a slight descent to the
| | |valley of the Maldi, and thence
_Ambelako_ | 25 | 182 |the road is good to Ambelako, near
| | |where running water is found at
| | |Galushima.
| | |
_Fil Fil_ | 8 | 190 |Good running water. Between Fil
| | |Fil and Gergeret there are some
| | |very steep and stony ascents and
| | |descents, which are difficult for
| | |camel caravans. Same applies to
| | |the Ailet defile later on, which
| | |however is not so steep, being
| | |merely the stony bed of a stream.
| | |The track crosses three ranges of
| | |thickly wooded hills, and water is
| | |found in the Solomoni valley,
| | |about half way to Gergeret. The
| | |forest becomes less dense and the
| | |trees smaller as one approaches
| | |Gergeret.
| | |
_Gergeret_ | 10 | 202 |Good water is found in abundance
| | |here, except in the months of July
| | |and October, when the supply
| | |diminishes considerably.
| | |
_Ailet_ | 8 | 210 |From Gergeret to Ailet the heat is
| | |often intense, and there is a
| | |complete absence of water. Road
| | |mostly very stony, especially in
| | |the Ailet Gorge. Water bad and
| | |scarce.
| | |
[_Saati_ | 11 | 221 |
| | |
| | |_N.B.—This route report from
| | |Halibaret to Saati is not very
| | |reliable._]
| | |
Halibaret | — | 157 |Soon after crossing this the
(stream) | | |ascent to the Asmara plateau
| | |begins in earnest, and the road
| | |zig-zags up rugged mountain sides
| | |until the summit is reached, at
_Azteklesan_ | 13½ | 170½ |Azteklesan, a tukl village, which
| | |had a couple of small canteens
| | |(April, 1898), rest-houses, and a
| | |plentiful supply of water.
| | |
| | |From here the direct road winds
| | |along over at first rather a hilly
| | |bit of country covered with
| | |scattered bush and trees, and
| | |occasional khors, generally with
| | |water in them, until reaching
_Siuma Negus_ | 8 | 178½ |Siuma Negus, where there is a
| | |stream of good water, and a fair-
| | |sized village. The metalled coach
| | |road, after leaving Azteklesan,
| | |makes a considerable detour to the
| | |N., and is 3 or 4 miles longer.
| | |From here to Asmara, an open and
| | |slightly undulating fertile plain
| | |extends, dotted here and there
| | |with villages and several running
| | |streamlets.
| | |
_Asmara_ | 11½ | 190 |This is the capital of Eritrea,
| | |and residence of the Governor and
| | |Military Commandant. It is a
| | |military station of great
| | |importance to the Colony, and
| | |consequently has a considerable
| | |garrison. There is also a
| | |practically impregnable and
| | |heavily armed fort, as well as
| | |others of lesser importance. In
| | |the town, which has made great
| | |strides of late, are some
| | |excellent shops kept by Europeans,
| | |though, beyond the actual
| | |officials, Italians have not yet
| | |colonized to any extent. There is
| | |a R.C. Church, club, and some fair
| | |cafés.
| | |
| | |The Government of Eritrea is
| | |carried on by a Civilian Governor-
| | |General and a Military Commandant.
| | |
| | |The Army consists (1901) of 600
| | |Italian soldiers and about 7,000
| | |natives. The artillery corps is
| | |recruited from blacks.
| | |
| | |Asmara being roughly 7,000 feet
| | |above the sea has a temperate
| | |climate, and frost is not
| | |uncommon. There is a considerable
| | |rainfall in the summer months.
| | |
| | |From Asmara to Ginda the most
| | |direct road is the mule track
| | |which follows the telegraph line
| | |down an exceedingly rocky and
| | |precipitous descent which begins
| | |about 2½ miles from the edge of
| | |the plateau, which again is about
| | |the same distance from the town.
| | |After about 2 miles the descent to
| | |Ginda, which is through fine
| | |scenery, a deep valley, enclosed
| | |on either side by precipitous
| | |mountains, becomes more gradual.
| | |
_Ginda_ | 15 | 205 |At Ginda there is an excellent
| | |canteen (on a small scale) and
| | |good water supply (wells and
| | |stream).
| | |
| | |The distance by the coach road
| | |must be at least 25 miles.
| | |
Sabarguma | 5 | 210 |Between Ginda and Sabarguma, where
| | |there is also a canteen and good
| | |water, the mule track again is
| | |considerably shorter than the
| | |carriage road, and traverses
| | |comparatively easy hills which are
| | |covered with thick forest.
| | |
| | |Soon after leaving Sabarguma, a
| | |plain of the same name is crossed.
| | |This is noted for the intensity of
| | |its heat, and is said to have
| | |accounted for many of the flower
| | |of the Italian Army.
| | |
Saati | 11 | 221 |After crossing the plain,
| | |undulating open country extends to
| | |Saati, which was railhead (1898),
| | |though now the railway is said to
| | |have reached about half way to
| | |Sabarguma (1901).
| | |
| | |At Saati, which is about 400 feet
| | |above the sea, there is a canteen,
| | |but water has to be brought from
| | |Massaua by the single line of
| | |railway.
| | |
Massaua | 17 | 240 |Two trains arrive and depart
| | |daily. Massaua contains a good
| | |harbour, barracks, very fair
| | |shops, and at least one quite
| | |respectable café, but it is a very
| | |hot, damp, unhealthy, and
| | |generally unpleasant place.
| | |Beninfeld’s agent would probably
| | |be the best man from whom to
| | |obtain transport, &c. The two
| | |lines of steamers which call at
| | |Massaua are the “Florio Rubattino”
| | |and “Khedivial.”
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
125.—TAKARASHORIT OR AMBARAB ON THE KHOR GASH _viâ_ SOGADA AND
KHOR MAIETIB TO UMBREGA ON THE RIVER SETIT.
BY CAPTAIN H. H. S. MORANT, MARCH, 1900.
[Sidenote: General remarks.]
From Ambarab to Sogada the road is good enough for camels, and is kept
open by frequent small caravans. There was also said to be a route
from Todluk to Sogada, which was however described as “bad,”
probably hilly.
Beyond Sogada the road itself presents no great difficulties, but the
absence of traffic[40] has allowed the thorny bushes to close in on
it to such an extent as to very seriously interfere with loaded or
riding camels almost the whole way to Gira.
Once the Setit is reached, there is no real difficulty about water,
but after the first 15 miles or so below Maietib the water is only
accessible at certain places. The further you descend the river,
the broader the strip of broken ground becomes on each side of the
stream, the further the road keeps from it, and the wider apart are
the watering places.
Probably the best plan when marching along the valley is to spend
the heat of the day on the river, and the night on the plateau above.
Water should be carried in fantasses, as skins get cut to pieces by
the thorns.
Cutting tools are desirable.
No supplies are obtainable nearer than Gedaref on the Setit. There
are no settled inhabitants east of the village of Wad Heleiwa, 11½
miles E. of Sofi on the Atbara.
---------------+--------------------+---------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
---------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------
_Takarashorit_ | — | — |This appears to be the name of
| | |some wells in the bed of the
| | |Gash, about 45 miles above
| | |Kassala. If not constantly used,
| | |these wells are quickly filled in
| | |by the sand; but as the water is
| | |not more than 6 feet to 10 feet
| | |below the surface, they are
| | |easily opened out again. The bed
| | |here is sandy and about 120 yards
Ambarab | — | — |wide. Ambarab is the name given
| | |to a grassy, and in the rains
| | |marshy, place about 1½ miles
| | |further up stream on the left
| | |bank.
| | |
| | |There is a road from here to
| | |Agordat. The road to Sogada leads
| | |generally in a S. direction for
| | |the most part over level ground
| | |covered with more or less thick
| | |bush, which offers no serious
| | |obstacle to camels in single
| | |file.
| | |
| | |There are several tracks, used
| | |probably at different times of
| | |the year. There are a few slight
| | |ascents and descents, but nothing
| | |at all serious.
| | |
_Sogada_ | 18 | 18 |The road passes through some low
| | |stony hills partially covered
| | |with thorny bush, and at 18 miles
| | |it leaves the village of Sogada
| | |about ¾ mile on the left high up
| | |on the S.W. slopes of J. Argoji,
| | |the highest hill in the immediate
| | |neighbourhood. The village did
| | |not appear to contain more than
| | |25 tukls.
| | |
| | |There is a large and deep well at
| | |the foot of the hill, but the
| | |water was reported to be bad.
| | |
Khor Angaleib | 1 | 19 |Track now crosses a level plain
| | |enclosed on all sides by hills,
| | |with openings to the W. After
| | |crossing the khor, signs of
| | |recent dura cultivation were seen
| | |at intervals on both sides of the
| | |road.
| | |
_Khor Gersat_ | 3 | 22 |Here there is a large well on the
| | |N. side of the khor, which gives
| | |a plentiful supply of good water.
| | |There are no tukls actually at
| | |the well, as the inhabitants
| | |prefer to build their houses on
| | |the hill sides, but there are
| | |several settlements in the
| | |immediate neighbourhood, all of
| | |which are included under the
| | |district name of Sogada.
| | |
| | |The inhabitants are Baza, or
| | |Badein, or Kunama. They are very
| | |much afraid of the Bazas of the
| | |Setit, who raid them
| | |occasionally, they say, under
| | |Abyssinian leadership, but they
| | |seem to be friendly with the Beni
| | |Amer, whose merchants purchase
| | |dura from them. The Sheikh’s name
| | |is Haidar Wad Ibrahim.
| | |
Dinti | 2¼ | 24¼ |From here the track proceeds
| | |nearly due S., but winds about a
| | |good deal amongst low hills and
| | |through thick bush, which, with
| | |one or two steep-banked khors,
| | |greatly impede the march of
| | |loaded camels.
| | |
| | |The hamlet of Dinti is passed
| | |about 1½ miles to the left on the
| | |slopes of J. Dinti. The
| | |inhabitants of Lakatakura were
| | |camped in this neighbourhood, but
| | |whether they had left their home
| | |on account of the failure of
| | |their water supply, or from fear
| | |of the Abyssinians, it was
| | |difficult to make out.
| | |
| 3¼ | 27½ |After some more tedious windings
| | |the track descends into a level
| | |plain, bounded by the Atbara on
| | |the W., and Setit on the S., and
| | |on the E. by an apparently
| | |continuous range of hills, at the
| | |foot of which lies the Baza
| | |village of Lakatakura.
| | |
Khor Gullui | 2½ | 30 |This khor is a considerable
| | |obstacle, being at least 15 feet
| | |deep and perhaps 30 yards wide.
| | |The sides are steep at regular
| | |crossing places. A few miles to
| | |the W., near J. Hamid, the water
| | |stands for a long time in the
| | |khor after the rains. That place
| | |is often referred to by natives
| | |as Gullui, and it seems to be on
| | |the old frontier of Hamrans, Beni
| | |Amer and Bazas.
| | |
| | |There is some Baza cultivation
| | |near the Khor Gullui.
| | |
J. Sabun | 5 | 35 |From here on to J. Sabun, a small
| | |isolated hill said to be on the
| | |frontier between Hamrans and
| | |Bazas, the track passes through
| | |very thick thorn bush, which
| | |greatly impedes loaded camels.
| | |
Khor Sanasaba | 3¼ | 38¼ |The track leaves J. Sabun just on
| | |its right and turns more to the
| | |E. The thorns are less
| | |troublesome, and patches of
| | |cultivation and open spaces with
| | |high grass are passed.
| | |
Khor Lakisaba | 3 | 41¼ |Track continues through the same
| | |class of country nearly due E.,
| | |and after ascending the Khor
| | |Lakisaba for about 3 miles, it
| | |leaves it and ascends its left
| | |bank, making straight for the
_Halting-place_| 5¾ | 47 |hills. Eventually it enters the
| | |valley of the Lakisaba, and a
| | |halt was made in its bed in a
| | |spot enclosed between the hills
| | |of J. Komkom and J. Agachina.
| | |
| | |There was no better reason for
| | |the selection of this halting-
| | |place, which was at least a mile
| | |off our road, than that it was
| | |perhaps the nearest point to the
| | |water at the head of the Khor
| | |Lakisaba, to which loaded camels
| | |could go without considerable
| | |difficulty. This water, the only
| | |water within about 20 miles in
| | |any direction, is said to be
| | |contained in a large cleft in the
| | |rock about 1 hour’s camel march
| | |beyond the halting-place. The
| | |cleft is high up in the rocks,
| | |and all the water has to be
| | |carried down by hand.
| | |
| | |There were a few Baza families
| | |there, who assisted in the
| | |watering of our animals and
| | |filling our fantasses, but the
| | |delay was very great.
| | |
| | |_Lakatakura_ lies about 3½ to 4
| | |miles N. of the Khor Lakisaba. It
| | |was deserted, and the _well_ was
| | |said to be dry.
| | |
| | |After retracing our steps for a
| | |mile we struck off in a S.
| | |direction, and followed a track
| | |made by an Italian hunting party
| | |a few days before. This track had
| | |evidently not been used for many
| | |years, as it was all overgrown
| | |with thorns, and was very
| | |indistinct in places. Fortunately
| | |the hunting party had been
| | |obliged to partially clear it for
| | |their camels, and after
| | |considerable difficulties we
| | |emerged from the hills after
| | |going about 12 miles, and reached
| | |the Khor Maichhi. Here there are
| | |many hashab, baobab, and sunt
| | |trees. Soon after the Khor
| | |Maietib is crossed, and places
| | |were seen where it is said water
| | |used formerly to remain even
_R. Setit_ | 21 | 68 |during the hot weather. After a
| | |few more miles through undulating
| | |wooded country the track leads
| | |suddenly on to the bank of the
| | |Setit opposite a large pool about
| | |1 mile below its junction with
| | |the Khor Maietib, which is said
| | |to be the old boundary between
| | |the Hamran and Baza tribes. There
| | |was some tobacco growing in this
| | |khor which was said to have been
| | |planted by the Abyssinian Baza.
| | |
| | |About here the Setit averages 100
| | |to 150 yards wide, with a good
| | |deal of running water in it,
| | |though frequently fordable at
| | |this season (March). Banks 20 to
| | |30 feet high with a good deal of
| | |tamarisk.
| | |
K. Debebi | 1 | 69 |Following river, down right bank
| | |K. Debebi and Abu Osher are
K. Abu Osher | 2½ | 71½ |crossed.
| | |
J. Mudassir | 4½ | 76 |J. Mudassir is left ¾ mile on
| | |right and after crossing K.
_K. Meshra El | 1½ | 77½ |Meshra El Gedad J. Elaklei is
Gedad_ | | |also left same distance on right
| | |place on right bank named Darfit
J. Elaklei | 1 | 78½ |is passed, and Khor Um Hagar
| | |reached, the jebel of same name
Darfit | 1 | 79½ |being 1 mile on right. Soon after
| | |crossing this khor, a track leads
_Um Hagar_ | 1 | 80½ |N. to Abu Gamal. Broken ground
| | |now begins.
| | |
_Helegim_ | 1 | 81½ |After crossing the island of
| | |Helegim and marching down bed of
Halt | 1½ | 83 |river, good shade is reached on
| | |left bank.
| | |
| | |From here, leaving the river
| | |which was running S.W., owing to
| | |impossibility of marching along
| | |it on account of ravines and
J. Um Hagar | 2 | 85 |thick bush, a N. direction was
| | |taken to foot of J. Um Hagar,
| | |then, turning W., marched over
| | |bad cotton soil chiefly along
Ridge | 6¼ | 91¼ |elephant tracks at foot of low
| | |ridge of hills left on right
| | |till, reaching a shorter detached
Hafeira | 7 | 98¼ |ridge, we turned S., passing
| | |Hafeira, an old burial ground of
| | |Hamrans, and descended to the
| | |river at Umbrega, where the Setit
_Umbrega_[41] | 2 | 100¼ |flows between white cliffs, Geif
| | |El Hamam, on left bank, and
| | |precipitous ground on right bank.
| | |The last 17 miles had been nearly
| | |all bad going, and game paths
| | |were the only tracks met. Game
| | |between Maietib and Umbrega
| | |plentiful. Lion, abu ma’arif
| | |(Roan Antelope), kudu, water-
| | |buck, tétel (tora hartebeeste),
| | |bushbuck, ariel, gazelle, oribi,
| | |dig-dig, wart-hog, hippo. Numbers
| | |of giraffe and elephant tracks
| | |were seen, but buffalo tracks
| | |only twice.
---------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------
126.—GALLABAT TO CHELGA.
BY CAPTAIN A. C. PARKER, JANUARY, 1904.
[Sidenote: General.]
From Gallabat to where the track crosses the Gandoa, ground is
undulating and track continually crosses khors which drain into the
Gandoa or the Atbara. Country bushed and rocky, but stretches of
cotton soil in places; from the Gandoa on to Chelga track gets worse
and gradients more severe and valleys running down from the Escarp
more deeply cut.
[Sidenote: Water.]
Is in plenty all along the road, there is not an interval of 10 miles
without good water.
[Sidenote: Supplies.]
Perhaps a little dura can be obtained at Wahni (up to an ardeb or two)
otherwise non-existent.
[Sidenote: Inhabitants.]
Belata Dasta’s village is at Wahni, otherwise no inhabitants except
roving bands of hunters, usually Tigréans.
[Sidenote: Transport.]
Mule, donkey and pony pack-transport only suitable, though camels
said to have been used as far as Wahni.
[Sidenote: Passes.]
The Emperor’s pass is a necessity.
[Sidenote: Game.]
Plentiful on Atbara and Gandoa.
[Sidenote: Escort.]
An escort of 8 to 10 men is necessary in case of bandits.
N.B.—W = Wauz = Khor. T = Tarara = Jebel.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Gallabat | — | — |Leaving Gallabat, path crosses
| | |Khor Abnakheir; ground rises from
| | |khor rough and stony; about 300
| | |yards from it, a track leads in a
| | |more southerly direction to Kwara;
| | |track, running a little S. of E.,
Tarara Mariam | 2 | 2 |passes round S. end of Tarara
Waha | | |Mariam Waha (200 feet); skirting
| | |S. of this hill and its
| | |continuations, path is rough, cut
| | |up by small khors running S. from
| | |them; at mile 3, low hills begin
| | |on S. of track and continue for a
| | |mile, track rough, winding, and
| | |cut up by small khors running N.
| 2 | 4 |From here country becomes more
| | |open, cotton soil, and low trees
| | |until a small khor fringed with
| | |big trees is reached, and a few
_Khor Chincha_| 1 | 5 |hundred yards on, Khor Chincha, a
| | |rocky khor, water plentiful. Track
| | |meanders on through rocky ground,
| | |rough going, for a mile, when
| | |cotton soil and more or less open
| | |country is reached; another 1½
| | |miles, and a rocky khor is
| | |reached.
| | |
| | |(Khor Sababa.) A few hundred yards
| | |on is the halting-place Wahsha,
| | |steep cliff on N. of khor making
| | |waterfall when water sufficient,
| | |still rough going, cotton soil and
_Khor Sababa_ | 2½ | 7½ |rocky alternately; ¾ mile on,
| | |cross Khor Abd El Rizak Gowari (12
| | |yards wide), cotton soil thickly
| | |wooded at mile 10. A small khor is
| | |crossed and ¼ mile on Khor Goghan;
_Khor Koki_ | 3 | 10½ |at mile 10½, Khor Koki, or Shatta,
| | |is crossed; this is a very
| | |winding, deep khor, banks 10 feet,
| | |bed shingly, 15 yards wide, water
| | |very plentiful, good shade. Track
| | |crosses this khor twice more
| | |before leaving it, when country
| | |becomes fairly open, with small
| | |trees, and after 2 miles reaches
| | |and passes to S. of a small hill
Tarara | 2 | 12½ |(120 feet), Tarara Jingandibba (or
Jingandibba | | |J. Wad Manna). Path now
| | |continually crosses small khors
| | |running N.; at mile 16 Khor
| | |Ardeiba is passed, and 2 miles on
_Khor | 5½ | 18 |Khor Wandoferi is crossed (7 yards
Wandoferi_ | | |wide, banks 6 feet high, not much
| | |water, good shade); ¾ mile good
| | |going, and track begins to
| | |descend, and ½ mile on reaches
_Khor Aftit_ | 1¼ | 19¼ |Khor Aftit (12 yards wide, banks
| | |10 feet high, good water and
| | |shade). ½ mile on crosses small
| | |khor, country much cut up. 1½
_Khor Shahadi_| 2 | 21¼ |miles on Khor Shahadi (16 yards
| | |wide, deep pools, general
| | |direction N.) is crossed; ¾ mile
| | |on path skirts edge of cliff 50
| | |feet high, at bottom of which is
| | |Khor Shahadi; at mile 23¾ track
| | |descends rapidly, and ¼ mile on
| | |crosses small khor; ½ mile further
| | |on small khor of flowing water,
_Khor Gandoa_ | 4 | 25¼ |and at mile 25¼ Khor Gandoa (50
| | |yards wide in deep pools). From
| | |this point road to Dagussa leads
| | |off up left bank of Gandoa.
| | |Crossing Gandoa, track runs almost
| | |parallel with it, low hills 1,000
| | |yards off to N. and also on other
| | |side of Gandoa; at mile 27 track
| | |crosses Ofing Gandoa W. (small,
| 2¼ | 27½ |with water), and at mile 27½
| | |passes close S. of a hill (200
| | |feet). Bamboos now first observed
| | |in abundance; ¼ mile on path
| | |crosses Jirar W. (15 yards wide,
| ½ | 28 |pools of water). At mile 28 path
| | |passes close N. of a low hill
| | |running down towards the Gandoa,
| 2½ | 30½ |and at mile 30½ close S. of
| | |another hill, low hills still to
_Agam W._ | 2¼ | 32¾ |N.; 2¼ miles on reach Agam W.,
| | |flowing water (named from the
| | |lilac-like flowering bush growing
| | |there). At mile 33¼ cross small
| | |khor, and another khor 2 miles
| | |from Agam W., low hills now only
| | |250 yards off to N.; ½ mile on
| | |pass close to S. of another hill.
| 3¼ | 36 |At mile 36 track crosses a small
| | |stony khor with a thick fringe of
| | |bamboos, and ¾ mile on close round
| | |the S. of a bluff; ¾ mile small
_Abai W._ | 2 | 38 |khor, and at mile 38 reaches Abai
| | |W., a running stream coming from
| | |among some hills about 600 feet
| | |high and 1,500 yards off N. of
| | |road. Track now leads up the
| | |valley of a small khor with low
| | |hills on both sides quite close,
| | |dense jungle of bamboo, high
| | |grass, etc., but after 1¼ miles
| | |begins to ascend a spur rapidly,
| | |and in course of the next half
| | |mile rises about 200 feet, then
| | |across a flat with amphitheatre of
| | |precipitous flat-topped hills (600
| | |feet) to N., about 2,000 yards
_Tarara | 3 | 41 |off, to southern end of Tarara
Kamachela_ | | |Kamachela (700 to 800 feet). Track
| | |passes round S. of Kamachela, and
| | |close under it, running at right
| | |angles to its former direction;
| | |still under hill crosses khor of
| | |water, and a mile on reaches site
Wahni Suk | 3½ | 44½ |of Wahni Suk (no buildings). From
| | |the Suk there is very steep path
| | |leading up to the village of Wahni
| | |(uninhabited when seen); this is
| | |situated on the top of Kamachela,
| | |a plateau sloping away to the N.
| | |There is a little cultivation
| | |below (dura and cotton), but grain
| | |can only be bought in very limited
| | |quantities. From Wahni Suk track
| 1 | 45½ |resumes its old course; after 1
| | |mile a khor (10 yards wide) full
| | |of water is crossed, and ½ mile on
| | |track passes through two or three
| 1 | 46½ |low hills. ½ mile on a small khor
| | |of water is crossed. Here the
| | |“Candelabra cactus” makes its
| | |first appearance. Path now
| | |descends rapidly, and reaches khor
| 1 | 47½ |in bottom of valley about 250 feet
| | |below Wahni Suk. Since crossing
| 1 | 48½ |the Gandoa, khors have all been
| | |running more or less W., but from
| | |here, after ascending out of
| | |valley, another water system is
| | |encountered, the water running N.
| | |Path ascends and crosses spurs,
| | |running N. from a square
| | |precipitous hill, Tarara
| | |Angedibba.
| | |
| 1¼ | 49¾ |At mile 49¾ saddle N. of Tarara
| | |Angedibba is passed over, and path
| | |at once descends rapidly into the
| | |jungley valley of the Baloha W.,
| | |some small khors are crossed, and
| 2 | 51¾ |2 miles from saddle there is a
| | |small hill on left of path; ¾ mile
| | |on track crosses Baloha W., a
| | |babbling stream 12 yards wide, two
| | |or three times, and at mile 53¼
| | |begins to ascend rapidly, and in ¼
| | |mile reaches saddle under Tarara
| 1¾ | 53½ |Baloha. Striking along the hill
| | |for ¾ mile track crosses a spur,
| | |and descends into the valley of
_Sunkwa W._ | 2 | 55½ |Sunkwa W., flowing water, reaching
| | |latter after another 1¼ miles.
| | |Path now ascends rapidly out of
| | |khor, and after 1 mile passes
| | |close N. of a hill (some 250 feet
| | |high); two or three small khors
| | |are crossed running N., and 2¼
| | |miles from the Sunkwa path reaches
| | |a saddle, hills visible N. and S.;
| | |path now ascends and runs along
| | |the N. side of a range of hills
| | |for 4 miles, when track skirts to
| | |N. of a knobby hill on top of the
| | |range; there is a little water in
| | |a khor running down the hill
| | |northwards here, but not enough
| | |for baggage animals; track now
| | |changes to S. side of range and
| | |skirts along, winding in and out
| | |between gullies and spurs until a
| | |small pool of water is reached in
_Savinki W._ | 3¾ | 66½ |Savinki W.
| | |
_Gint W._ | 2 | 68½ |From here track runs a few hundred
| | |yards almost due south, then
| | |changes to south-east, ground more
| | |level as nearer base of hills; now
| | |reaches Gint W., close under
| | |Tarara Wahamba, a jagged basaltic
| | |remnant. Track now winds for about
| | |a mile, turning continually at
| | |right angles, as ground is very
| | |rough and cut up by khors. Path
| | |finally crosses to south of Gint
| | |W., a running stream, and ascends
| | |a spur of Wali Deva range,
| | |rounding spurs and crossing khors;
| 3¾ | 72¼ |at mile 72¼ track, which is close
| | |down to khor, rises sharply up a
| 3½ | 75¾ |spur for 300 yards, and skirts
| | |along higher up. At mile 75¾ path
| | |again rises rapidly up a spur, and
| | |after a pretty hard climb of some
| | |1,600 feet passes up a cleft and
Top of | — | — |reaches top of escarpment at head
Escarpment | | |of valley of Gint W. Country is
| | |now open and rolling, track
| 2½ | 81¼ |ascends gradually for 2½ miles,
| | |when it crosses the watershed.
| | |Here a view of Lake Tsana is
| | |obtained. Path now descends, easy
| | |gradients, into the Goang valley,
Chelga | 3½ | 84¾ |and reaches Chelga at mile 84¾.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
127.—LAKE TSANA (GOJA) TO GANDOA.
BY CAPTAIN A. C. PARKER, ROYAL SUSSEX REGIMENT, MARCH, 1904.
[Sidenote: General.]
Goja to Gallabat fair path, better than Chelga to Gallabat Road,
but after descent of Escarp there are several bad places.
[Sidenote: Water.]
Is plentiful, nowhere more than 10 miles interval without it.
[Sidenote: Supplies.]
Obtainable nil.
[Sidenote: Inhabitants.]
Abyssinian villages from Lake Tsana up to watershed. A monastry
at Mabra Solasi near Bamba. Stray hunting parties in the country
adjoining the frontier.
[Sidenote: Transport.]
Mule, donkey, and pony pack-transport only suitable.
[Sidenote: Passes, game, escort.]
_See_ route Gallabat—Chelga.
N.B.—W = Wauz = Khor = dry watercourse. T = Tarara = Jebel =
mountain.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
| 1 | 1 |Path leaves Goja in a northerly
| | |direction through high grass, and
| | |crosses a small khor almost at
| | |once. After 1 mile passes round
| | |west side of a low hill; 1½ miles
| | |on cross Anfordibba W. Full of
| | |running water; ground rises
| | |slowly; open country; path crosses
_Ariko_ | 1¾ | 2¾ |Ariko W., full of water, and,
| | |still ascending, leaves small hill
| | |on left, and at mile 4 passes a
| | |big tree marking spot where market
| | |used to be held.
| | |
Amusgebaia | 1¼ | 4 |“Amusgebaia”—legend says tree was
| | |used for hanging people. Cross
| | |four small khors, and, still
| | |gradually ascending, reach
Goanderat | ¾ | 4¾ |Goanderat village. Track crosses
| | |two small khors and gradually runs
| 2¾ | 7½ |up side of a small valley on to
| | |watershed; now descends slowly,
| | |and reaches camping ground at
_Barbaria | 1 | 8½ |Barbaria Kora (small amount of
Kora_ | | |water). Ground slopes away for
| | |another 1½ miles, when track
| 2¼ | 10¾ |descends rapidly down north side
| | |of a gully and, striking down a
| | |spur, reaches a saddle; now skirts
| | |north side of spur, path
| 1¾ | 12½ |descending rapidly. At mile 12½
| | |track passes along edge of a sheer
| | |precipice; shortly after path runs
| | |sharply down a spur in a more
| | |northerly direction; at mile 14 it
| | |leaves spur and leads down steep
| | |rocky descent across small khor
Diloa W. | 1¾ | 14¼ |and reaches camping place, “Diloa
| | |W.”; said to be water in khor, but
| | |I did not see it. Track now very
| | |much shut in, thick bush and rough
| | |stony descents, an especially bad
| | |one at mile 16¾. At mile 17 track
| | |follows bed of small khor,
| | |crossing it continually, track
| | |bad, thick bush, shut in both
| | |sides by hills; at mile 19 this
| | |khor joins Ganbilo W.; juncture is
_Girad Mwat_ | 4¾ | 19 |called Girad Mwat, there is
| | |abundant water. Follows Ganbilo
| | |W., a khor 20 yards wide with
| | |pools, crossing it six times in
| 4 | 23 |the next 2¾ miles; track now
| | |passes between two hills, that on
| | |N. being very steep and probably
| | |end of a ridge which runs down
| | |from Tankal. Path now descends
| | |slowly, bamboo jungle, and 1½
| | |miles on reaches junction of two
_Goandera W._ | 1½ | 24½ |khors, Goandera W., water
| | |plentiful. 1¾ miles on path
| | |crosses khor (Tukur Waha W.); path
| | |now along right bank of Jira W.,
| | |25 yards wide with large pools,
_Ambo_ | 2¼ | 26¾ |then cross Ambo W. This comes from
| | |a spring about ½ mile further back
| | |in hill, where it bubbles up quite
| | |warm; a couple of hundred yards
| | |off on the other side of the Jira
_Mwat Abba | 1¼ | 28 |lie the hot baths Mwat Abba
Mariam_ | | |Mariam. 2½ miles on pass to N. of
| | |low hill; hills on N. of path
| 2½ | 30½ |about 400 yards off, Jira W. still
| | |lying parallel with road but some
| 1¼ | 31¾ |way off to S.; at mile 31¾ track
| | |runs close to the Jira, here deep
| | |water but narrow for 500 yards,
| | |when a deep khor coming from N. is
| | |crossed; track now leaves Jira and
| | |leads up a defile down which a
| | |khor, a tributary of Jira runs;
| 1¼ | 33 |cross this khor for first time at
| | |mile 33, steep precipitous hills
| | |on both sides, path ascending
| | |dense bamboo thickets, reach water
| 4¼ | 37¼ |at mile 37¼. Ascent from Jira has
| | |been 300 or 400 feet; path now
| | |descends rapidly 350 feet, and
| | |leads down north side of a flat
| | |valley, path good, and reaches
_Wanenta_ | 4½ | 41¾ |Wanenta, water sufficient for
| | |party of 30 or so; now along north
| | |side of valley close under low
| | |hills; on south side of valley is
| | |a very prominent cone-shaped hill.
_Shimel Waha | 3¼ | 45 |Cross Shimel Waha W., water
W._ | | |abundant, and 1 mile on cross
| | |small khor, halting-place under a
Bamba | 1 | 46 |gemmeiza tree, called Bamba, track
| | |level and good; cross Jineta
_Jineta | 2¼ | 48¼ |Mariam W., running water, and 1¼
Mariam_ | | |miles on another running stream,
| | |called Mariam Waha W.; ¼ mile
| 1½ | 49¾ |further track passes close north
| | |of a hill; ground now broken up by
| | |spurs running northwards; path now
_Nefoing | 1¾ | 51½ |descends and crosses Nefoing
Gandoa_ | | |Gandoa W. just at the junction
| | |with the Gandoa; another 1½ miles
Jigebit | 1½ | 53 |on and Jigebit camping ground on
| | |the Gandoa is reached. 2¼ miles on
| 2¼ | 55¼ |cross khor of running water, and
| | |at mile 57 cross Barkurkur W., a
_Barkurkur_ | 1¾ | 57 |small khor of flowing water; 2
| | |miles on track passes south of
| | |Tarara Bisaurkudat, and ½ mile on
_Malkam Waha | 2½ | 59½ |reaches Malkam Waha W., a small
W._ | | |khor of flowing water. At mile 60¾
| | |crosses a khor of running water
| | |and another one 500 or 600 yards
| 1¾ | 62½ |on; at mile 62½ pass close to a
| | |bend of the Gandoa, and 1 mile on
Wahsha W. | 1 | 63½ |across the Wahsha W.; after
| | |another mile cross a big khor, and
| | |700 yards on a small khor with
| | |water; another deep khor without
| | |water is crossed, and then the
Gandoa | 2½ | 66 |Gandoa is reached. Path skirts it
| | |for some hundreds of yards till it
| | |reaches point where Wahni road
| | |crosses.
| | |
| | |Measurements by pacing, pace
| | |reckoned 32½ inches.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
128.—ADDIS ABBABA, _viâ_ GOJJAM AND LAKE TSANA, TO GALLABAT.[42]
BY MR. J. BAIRD, MAY, 1901.
------------+---------------+-------------+-----------------------------
| Miles. | |
Place. +--------+------+Hours’ march.| Description.
| Inter- |Total.| |
|mediate.| | |
------------+--------+------+-------------+-----------------------------
| | | H. M. |
| | | |
Addis Abbaba| — | — | — |The road from Addis Abbaba is
| | | |rough and hilly. Three
| | | |nullahs are crossed, two of
| | | |them with steep sides. No
| | | |fuel. Barley can be bought.
| | | |Excellent grazing. Two good
| | | |streams 50 yards from camp
| | | |(S.).
| | | |
_Sallulta_ | 4 | 4 | 1 50 |Excellent going over
| | | |undulating grass country. Six
| | | |streams crossed, all easy and
| | | |containing a fair supply of
| | | |water. Many villages and much
| | | |ploughed land _en route_.
| | | |Cattle and horses numerous;
| | | |fuel plentiful. Last hour’s
| | | |march through acacia scrub.
| | | |Good stream. Supplies as
| | | |before.
| | | |
Muggur-Affaf| 21½ | 25½ | 8 35 |The descent into the Muggur,
| | | |commencement of which is
| | | |reached 2 hours after leaving
| | | |camp, is precipitous and
| | | |unrideable. Loaded mules get
| | | |down with difficulty. Muggur
| | | |reached 4 hours from start.
| | | |Ascent to other (N.) side of
| | | |valley is easier, but also
| | | |mostly unrideable. Camp at
| | | |edge of S. plateau. No water
| | | |between camps, except Muggur.
_Yaïya_ | 16½ | 42 | 7 5 |Two villages passed in
| | | |valley, one on either side of
| | | |river. Some cotton and barley
| | | |grown. Monkeys and florican
| | | |on hills. Each side of River
| | | |Muggur 2,800 feet below
| | | |either plateau. Grazing bad;
| | | |barley and sheep in small
| | | |quantities. A fair stream 100
| | | |yards N. of camp. Wood
| | | |plentiful in Muggur valley,
| | | |but scarce immediately round
| | | |camp.
| | | |
| | | |Easy marching over undulating
| | | |grass country; for the last
| | | |1½ hours through occasional
| | | |chavaha trees. Fuel scarce.
| | | |The hills, which are a mile
_Kessi_ | 17½ | 59½ | 6 45 |E. and N.E. of camp, are
| | | |wooded, but plains are
| | | |treeless. Excellent grazing;
| | | |fair supplies of barley and
| | | |sheep. A small stream 100
| | | |yards N. of camp.
| | | |
| | | |Excellent going over gently
| | | |undulating grass plateau. Few
| | | |streams crossed, and water
| | | |usually scarce and bad. No
_Jarso_ | 21½ | 81 | 8 35 |trees. A few villages. Few
| | | |cattle. A large market at
| | | |Jarso on Saturdays; barley,
| | | |sheep, and fuel to be bought.
| | | |Fair stream 50 yards W. of
| | | |camp.
| | | |
_Blue Nile_ | 14 | 95 | 7 0 |This camp is a very bad one.
(right bank)| | | |Tents have to be pitched on
| | | |the track, which runs along
| | | |the steep N. bank of the
| | | |Nile. Any amount of fuel. The
| | | |descent is unrideable, and
| | | |mules have to be unloaded
| | | |once to get through narrow
| | | |pass. River 4,680 feet below
| | | |S. plateau. Few mosquitoes.
| | | |Many crocodiles and good fish
| | | |can be caught in Nile. No
| | | |water between Jarso and
| | | |river. No grazing and no
| | | |supplies. Wood abundant.
| | | |
| | | |The first part of ascent is
| | | |most trying for mules. At one
| | | |part they have to be unloaded
| | | |and load carried up steps for
| | | |40 feet (1 hour 13 minutes
| | | |after start); the remainder
| | | |of the road runs over
_Dejen_ | 13½ | 108½ | 7 0 |successive plateaux,
| | | |connected by steep ascents.
| | | |Village of Mere (friendly
| | | |chief, Balambaras Nagau) near
| | | |top of ascent, and
| | | |considerable amount of
| | | |cultivation around it.
| | | |Excellent grazing; plentiful
| | | |supplies from neighbouring
| | | |village. Water bad and little
| | | |from stream 100 yards E. of
| | | |camp. Wood scarce.
| | | |
_Abukerk_ | 14½ | 123 | 6 0 |A good camping-place in
| | | |sheltered cup. Wood plentiful
| | | |on surrounding hills. A fair
| | | |number of villages in
| | | |neighbourhood, and some
| | | |cultivation. Excellent going,
| | | |mostly over undulating grass;
| | | |treeless plain from Dejen. A
| | | |few streams _en route_.
| | | |Latter part along wooded
| | | |western slope of ridge.
| | | |Excellent grazing; supplies
| | | |plentiful. Water, good supply
| | | |from stream 50 yards W. of
| | | |camp. Wood abundant.
| | | |
_Askatta_ | 7½ | 130½ | 3 15 |Camp on treeless slope of
| | | |undulating plain, over which
| | | |road led from Abukerk.
| | | |Several streams crossed, all
| | | |easy, and going excellent all
| | | |the way. Little cultivation;
| | | |good grazing. Supplies
| | | |plentiful at neighbouring
| | | |village. Water, fair supply
| | | |from stream 100 yards below
| | | |camp. Wood scarce.
| | | |
_Debra | 10½ | 141 | 4 30 |The track is hilly, and in
Markos_ | | | |some places the descents are
| | | |steep and slippery after
| | | |rain. Much of the road lies
| | | |through thick acacia scrub,
| | | |almost impassable except by
| | | |the main mule track. Water
| | | |plentiful. Track narrow in
| | | |places. Large market.
| | | |
_Delma_ | 18½ | 159½ | 7 0 |Small camping ground on a
| | | |slope running from N.N.W. to
| | | |a fair stream running W.
| | | |Excellent going, alternately
| | | |through cultivation, bush and
| | | |plain. Many rivers _en
| | | |route_, all easily crossed.
| | | |Grazing bad. Villages in
| | | |neighbourhood numerous.
| | | |Barley plentiful and cheap.
| | | |Wood and water abundant.
| | | |
| | | |A steep descent 5 minutes
| | | |after starting, and fairly
| | | |steep descent and ascent into
| | | |and out of Tumcha river; the
| | | |track, except for the last
| | | |hour, leads through scrub and
_Dembecha_ | 9½ | 169 | 2 40 |thick wood; the crossing of
| | | |the Gadlar is easy, low
| | | |banks. Excellent camping
| | | |ground on the E. side of
| | | |Dembecha, ½ mile from Gadlar;
| | | |first rate grazing. Barley,
| | | |rif. Market on Mondays. Water
| | | |abundant; wood on surrounding
| | | |hills, and can be bought.
| | | |
| | | |Passing through Dembecha the
| | | |road ascends gradually for
| | | |the first ½ hour some 200
| | | |feet over open grass country;
| | | |it then drops into a thick
| | | |forest, where the track is so
| | | |narrow and deep that two
| | | |mules could not pass in some
| | | |places; thick undergrowth.
| | | |After three-quarters of an
| | | |hour’s march, the Cherika
| | | |stream is crossed 350 feet
| | | |below the Dembecha; from here
| | | |onwards the trees and the
| | | |undergrowth are far less
| | | |thick, and the track no
| | | |longer runs in a deep rut.
| | | |During the next three-
| | | |quarters of an hour the road
| | | |drops gradually 250 feet, and
| | | |then falls 500 feet in 20
| | | |minutes down to the Kacham
| | | |river. The descent is easy.
| | | |The river in May is some 15
| | | |yards wide, from 1 to 2 feet
| | | |deep, with a swift current;
| | | |flat, wooded banks. Large,
| | | |flat, slippery stones make
| | | |the crossing rather
| | | |troublesome. The valley of
| | | |this river is about ¾ mile
| | | |wide. The road now rises 290
| | | |feet, crossing a spur which
| | | |juts out from the hills
| | | |bounding Kacham’s valley on
| | | |the W. and dropping again to
| | | |10 feet below the Kacham’s
| | | |level, crosses the Birr river
| | | |50 minutes later. The bed of
| | | |the Birr at the crossing is
| | | |some 80 yards wide, the left
| | | |bank 15 to 20 feet high and
| | | |the right bank lower; the
| | | |water (7th May) runs with a
| | | |swift current, about 1 foot
| | | |deep, over a rocky bed in two
| | | |channels, separated by a mass
| | | |of black rock. 200 yards
| | | |below the crossing there is a
| | | |fall of some 30 feet, below
| | | |which the river runs in a
| | | |narrow gorge enclosed by
| | | |black rocks; 300 yards below
| | | |this it is crossed by a rough
| | | |log bridge. The road from
| | | |here runs over an undulating
| | | |grass-covered plain, bare at
| | | |first, but during the last 2
| | | |hours’ march, wooded. The
| | | |Rivers Sarinwaha, Tamim, Lach
| | | |and Bakkalla are crossed, as
| | | |well as two unnamed streams;
| | | |in May they none of them
| | | |present any difficulty. The
| | | |camp is a small and bad one
| | | |on the sloping N. bank of the
_River | 19 | 188 | 6 45 |Bakkalla river. Wood and
Bakkalla_ | | | |water plentiful, also barley.
| | | |
| | | |As far as Monkussa the track
| | | |winds N.W. and W. over
| | | |undulating grass country
| | | |dotted with acacia trees.
| | | |Parallel to the road, on the
| | | |S. side of it, and apparently
| | | |about 5 miles off, runs a
| | | |chain of hills. The river
| | | |Birr flows past the southern
| | | |end, and the Lach the
| | | |northern of this range; they
| | | |join on the far side and flow
| | | |into the Blue Nile. One small
| | | |stream is crossed before
| | | |reaching Monkussa, and one
| | | |immediately after leaving
_Burre_ | 9½ | 197½ | 4 0 |that village, the Dawuna by
| | | |name, 20 yards wide; water
| | | |knee-deep in May, with a
| | | |strong current. The crossing
| | | |is troublesome on account of
| | | |very slippery, flat stones.
| | | |After leaving Monkussa, the
| | | |track winds through more
| | | |thickly-wooded country, and
| | | |eventually runs over a
| | | |treeless plain, out of which
| | | |rises the knoll where Burre
| | | |is built. There is ample
| | | |space for a good camp No wood
| | | |at the town, but easily
| | | |procured close by. Water
| | | |supply not seen, but must be
| | | |fairly copious. Large
| | | |supplies.
| | | |
| | | |This is the capital of Damot,
| | | |the seat of Ras Warke, the
| | | |governor, and the centre of a
| | | |populous, fertile, and
| | | |cultivated district.
| | | |
| | | |The villages of Waan and
| | | |Zoava are passed between
| | | |Monkussa and Burre.
| | | |
| | | |An easy march through a
| | | |populous, well cultivated,
| | | |undulating country. Good
_Chara_ | 6½ | 204 | 2 30 |camping ground on the edge of
| | | |a stream; villages all
| | | |around. Supplies, wood and
| | | |water plentiful.
| | | |
| | | |Eight miles through
| | | |undulating cultivation; cross
| | | |Fattom river, tributary of
| | | |Blue Nile, 40 yards wide and
| | | |3 feet deep at crossing;
| | | |stream sluggish. Then 2½
_Anjavera_ | 18 | 222 | 7 20 |miles through dense forest,
| | | |after which track twists
| | | |through wooded hills into a
| | | |fairly populous and
| | | |cultivated plain. Rise of 600
| | | |feet during march.
| | | |Inhabitants not very
| | | |friendly. Supplies as before,
| | | |and some cattle.
| | | |
| | | |Rise rapidly 300 feet. Cross
| | | |thickly-wooded ridge forming
| | | |water-parting between Tsana
| | | |and Blue Nile systems, then
| | | |drop by narrow winding track
| | | |through dense forest into
| | | |rich, undulating, well-
| | | |watered country, with patches
| | | |of cultivation. Track in
| | | |places very narrow, and worn
| | | |deep into the clay. Four
| | | |hundred yards N.W. of point
_Dangalla_ | 20½ | 242½ | 8 0 |where track emerges from
| | | |wooded ridge, rises a sugar-
| | | |loaf hill, called Zurachi,
| | | |about 1,000 feet, forming a
| | | |conspicuous landmark. E. of
| | | |track are several isolated
| | | |hills, among which is Saatma,
| | | |visible for some distance on
| | | |either side of Anjavera. Last
| | | |8 miles through populous and
| | | |fertile district of Achaffer.
| | | |Camp in centre of four
| | | |scattered villages. After
| | | |crossing ridge excellent
| | | |going. Wood and water scarce.
| | | |
_Ismaila_ | 7 | 249½ | 2 30 |Good camp. Fair water and
| | | |supplies.
| | | |
| | | |Cross River Barati, tributary
| | | |of Blue Nile; easy crossing;
| | | |thence up gentle slope past
| | | |Libtan, a large village with
| | | |considerable amount of
_Nefassa_ | 16 | 265½ | 6 30 |cultivation; skirt foot of
| | | |hills bounding valley of Blue
| | | |Nile on W. to Nefassa. Poor,
| | | |thinly populated district.
| | | |Supplies scarce; no sheep or
| | | |cattle. Water and wood
| | | |scarce.
| | | |
_Liven_ | 6 | 271½ | 2 25 |A good camping ground. Open
| | | |country. Good road from
| | | |Ismaila. Barley can be
| | | |bought, but no sheep; a few
| | | |cattle in the neighbourhood.
| | | |Wood plentiful; small water
| | | |supply.
| | | |
_Forehe_ | 9½ | 281 | 3 45 |Good camp. A good road from
| | | |Liven. Natives unfriendly.
| | | |Supplies and water scarce.
| | | |
_Konsuli_ | 5½ | 286½ | 2 0 |A small camping ground 100
(Lake Tsana)| | | |yards from the lake; a good
| | | |road from Forehe. Natives
| | | |unfriendly. Wood, water and
| | | |barley plentiful.
| | | |
_Goja_ (Lake| 19 | 305½ | 7 30 |A rough road through the
Tsana) | | | |hills which border the lake;
| | | |no water _en route_; a bad
| | | |damp camping ground on the
| | | |foreshore of the lake.
| | | |Another road follows the
| | | |water’s edge from Konsuli.
| | | |This is longer, but said to
| | | |be better.
| | | |
_Dumgi_ | 11 | 316½ | 3 0 |A good road, and a good
| | | |camping ground. Poor grazing.
| | | |Water from lake.
| | | |
_Berbera | 5 | 321½ | 1 50 |A good camping ground in a
Kora_ | | | |hollow; excellent grazing.
| | | |Water supply fair. Plenty of
| | | |wood. No supplies.
| | | |
_Ghimfyva | 9½ | 331 | 5 0 |A very rough march, and a
River_ | | | |very bad camp in a narrow,
| | | |rocky, thickly-wooded valley.
| | | |Cross water-parting between
| | | |Tsana and Atbara systems, 600
| | | |feet above Lake. Track
| | | |narrow, twisting, and in
| | | |places very steep, only
| | | |practicable for mule or
| | | |donkey transport; descent of
| | | |3,500 feet in last 5 hours.
| | | |Practically no grazing. Wood,
| | | |but little water in rocks.
| | | |
_River Jera_| 12½ | 343½ | 4 50 |Another very rough march. A
| | | |fair little camping ground
| | | |with good shade; a little
| | | |grazing. Plenty of wood and
| | | |water.
| | | |
_Camp near | 10½ | 354 | 4 10 |A good camping ground. The
water holes_| | | |first part of the road is
| | | |rough, but after crossing a
| | | |ridge nearly 1,000 feet above
| | | |the Jera river it becomes
| | | |considerably easier; thick
| | | |clumps of bamboo are
| | | |difficult for loaded mules to
| | | |get through in places. Hardly
| | | |any grazing. Fair amount of
| | | |water. Plenty of wood.
| | | |
_Ghindoa | 21½ | 375½ | 8 50 |A good camp; fair going,
(Gandoa) | | | |except for the thick clumps
River_ | | | |of bamboo, which are a little
| | | |difficult for loaded mules to
| | | |get through in places. A halt
| | | |can be made at some water
| | | |passed 6 hours 5 minutes
| | | |after starting. Hardly any
| | | |grazing. No supplies. Wood
| | | |and water plentiful.
| | | |
_Chincha | 22 | 397½ | 8 20 |Good going and a good camping
River_ | | | |ground. Very little grazing.
| | | |Wood and water as before.
| | | |
Matemma | 5½ | 403 | 2 0 |An easy march over a good
(Gallabat) | | | |road.
------------+--------+------+-------------+-----------------------------
This road from the lake is the one followed by the Emperor John when
he went down to Matemma with some 20,000 (?) men in 1889 and was
killed by the Dervishes. The rains had barely commenced during the
present journey, therefore there was hardly any grass, and water was
scarce during the first 3 days’ march from the lake. Both water and
grass must be abundant after the rains, and while these are falling
the mountain torrents are said to make the road impassable; it could
be greatly improved by clearing the bamboos and other trees which in
places almost conceal the track.
129.—ADDIS ABBABA TO FAMAKA (S. OF BLUE NILE).
BY LIEUTENANT GWYNN, D.S.O., 1900.
NOTE—
G. = Gara, mountain range. J. = Jebel.
T. = Tulu, mountain peak. K. = Khor.
L. = Laga, stream.