(NORTH-WESTERN SUDAN.)
* * * * *
106.—SELIMA TO NILE OPPOSITE KOSHA.
BY CAPTAIN H. HODGSON, FEBRUARY, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Selima | — | — |Track to river bears at first at
| | |152°, and after ascending out of
| | |valley turns, and, bearing to
| | |point on road 3 miles away, where
| | |the trees of Selima are last
| | |sighted, is 118° (Magnetic). On
| | |top of rise, 6 miles out from
| | |well, a pair of hills are sighted
| | |on horizon, at bearing of 124°
| | |(Magnetic), which are close to the
| | |track and about half way to river.
| | |These twin hills of conical shape
| | |must not be confused with another
| | |pair lying about 80° or 90°. Track
| | |diverges northwards slightly, and
| | |runs at bearing of 119° to a
| | |conspicuous and isolated peak;
| | |best route lies close to the N. of
| | |this peak. Country flat; a sandy
| | |plain, with few land marks.
| | |
First halt | 38½ | 38½ |Halted after going 2 miles past
| | |twin peaks.
| | |
| | |The regular track to the river
| | |goes to Sagiet El Abd, and runs to
| | |S. of a mass of black rocky hills
| | |lying in the centre of a sandy
| | |plain. These hills are spoken of
River Nile, | 41 | 79½ |as Jebel El Tult. I marched to the
opposite to | | |N. of these hills, and struck the
Kosha | | |river opposite to Ginnis, the land
| | |mark being the hill marked Jebel
| | |Hamra on Kosha sheet. General
| | |direction 112°. Jebel Abri is, I
| | |am told, the mountain to march on
| | |when going to Sagiet El Abd.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
107.—DONGOLA TO LAGIA EL KEBIR (ARBAIN ROAD).
BY CAPTAIN H. HODGSON, DECEMBER 16 TO DECEMBER 31, 1901.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Dongola | — | — |From Dongola the route lies nearly
| | |due W. to Um Hellal; the chief
| | |landmark is Jebel Nosab. After
| | |leaving Nosab there is a bad bit
| | |of going, entailing about ½ hour’s
| | |walking, descending into valley
| | |containing the wells. Camels can
| | |trot the rest of the way.
| | |
_Um Hellal | 20 | 20 |Is good sweet water; the water
Well_ | | |lies about 9 feet from the
| | |surface; plenty of grazing for
| | |camels. About seven families live
| | |here through the winter, and it is
| | |possible to get goat’s milk and a
| | |few eggs and dates. A ruined
| | |fort, probably 100 years old,
| | |with a well in the yard (water 12
| | |feet from surface) is about ¾ mile
| | |away; it is called El Gab, and
| | |the whole oasis seems to take its
| | |name from it. Um Hellal is also
| | |called Gab El Tahtani.
| | |
_El Sawani_ | 3 | 23 |El Sawani has three wells close
| | |together. A number of sunt trees
| | |give very good shade. There are
| | |more date palms and it is a better
| | |camping-ground than either Shemsi
| | |or Um Hellal. Water is good, and
| | |about 10 feet from the surface;
| | |the wells are in constant use.
| | |About eleven families live here
| | |through the winter, considerably
| | |more during the summer.
| | |
_Gawit_ | — | — |Water reported near surface and
| | |easily obtained; good browsing,
| | |very little shade; all dom palms
| | |burnt by dervishes.
| | |
_Shemsi_ | 10 | 33 |Water near surface, in clay soil
| | |and plentiful; one pan sufficient
| | |for my party (twenty camels and
| | |eighteen men) taking water for 4
| | |days. Two or three good shady
| | |clumps of trees and plenty of
| | |browsing for camels. It would be
| | |difficult to pitch tents owing to
| | |deep sand. The landmark for Shemsi
| | |is Jebel Bowarib, which is a
| | |double hill of two small peaks of
| | |black volcanic rock, standing
| | |solitary about 3 miles N.W.
| | |
_Butta_ | — | — |I did not visit the well, as all
| | |the guides agreed the water was
| | |brackish and bad; the landmark
| | |from Shemsi is a low round hill,
| | |thus, nearly covered with yellow
| | |sand, distinctive, as surrounding
| | |hills are peaked and black rocky
| | |hills. There are apparently about
| | |five hills surrounding the water
| | |pans, each called Jebel Butta.
| | |
Jebel Fantoria| 9 | 42 |About 12 miles N.W. from Shemsi;
| | |stands out well, and can be seen
| | |at a long distance. Charles
| | |Neufeld was captured by the
| | |dervishes close to this hill.
| | |
| | |Between Selem (18½ miles from
| | |Shemsi), where there are some
| | |bushes, and Lagia there is nothing
| | |for camels to feed on, and forage
| | |must be carried. I did not see the
| | |track of any living thing, either
| | |when going or on return. There are
Jebel Abiad | 56 | 98 |no special names for any hills
| | |except Jebel Abiad, the N. end of
| | |a chalk range, which ends in an
| | |abrupt cliff and can be seen at a
| | |long distance.
| | |
El Gir | 36 | 134 |There was reported to be water
| | |last year. We dug a well to depth
| | |of 7 feet, without result. The
| | |Arabs state the country is more
| | |dried up this year than it has
| | |been since the date of the battle
| | |of Toski.
| | |
_Lagia Amran_ | 19½ | 153½ |Lagia the Less, also called Lagia
| | |Amran, from the colour of the
| | |ground, lies in a plain about 8
| | |miles long by 5 miles wide,
| | |surrounded entirely by rocky
| | |hills; there are only two
| | |entrances through encircling hills
| | |that are easy marching. Water lies
| | |within a foot of the surface, and
| | |is very plentiful. Ground consists
| | |of red clay with drifts of sand;
| | |the Arabs say there was formerly
| | |no sand, and that during last few
| | |years it is gradually covering
| | |ground, probably owing to dry
| | |seasons.
| | |
| | |My party dug a water pan out of
| | |the clay (3½ feet deep and 12 feet
| | |circumference). It was quite full
| | |of good water, with a certain
| | |amount of clay in solution, which
| | |settled on standing, on our return
| | |2 days later. Without this pan
| | |there was a plentiful supply of
| | |water from older diggings which
| | |the camel-men cleared of sand.
| | |There are some bushes and small
| | |trees, about ½ mile from the
| | |water, which afford feeding for
| | |camels. We also found water about
| | |½ mile to S.W. of old water holes.
| | |
_Lagia Kebir_ | 12½ | 166 |Or Lagia Agar. Some five or six
| | |pans of water; good and near the
| | |surface, springing from similar
| | |soil to Lagia the Less, but not so
| | |abundant. We dug for water in
| | |three likely places, about ¼ mile
| | |to the W., without result. The
| | |wells lie in an open plain; no
| | |vegetation near, except about six
| | |to ten small trees about 3½ miles
| | |to W. giving a little feeding for
| | |camels. To the N. the plain is
| | |shut in by a steep rocky ridge of
| | |hills, and the road to Selima
| | |Wells lies across it; on reaching
| | |summit of ridge there is only a
| | |stretch of rock and stones to be
| | |seen. Arabs state it is the road
| | |to Selima, and there is no
| | |grazing. To the S., the road to
| | |Sultan Well (the place where
| | |Natron is found) lies across an
| | |open plain, and is easy going. The
| | |tracks spread considerably and
| | |extend across a width of over a
| | |mile.
| | |
| | |An oasis, called Tura, is reported
| | |to lie 4 days’ journey in a S.W.
| | |direction, containing date trees,
| | |which is visited at date harvest
| | |time by the Bedai tribe. Sheikh
| | |Fadl El Mula is the only one of
| | |the party who had been there, and
| | |he said the water is very bad.
| | |Except for the above, the guides
| | |say they have no knowledge of any
| | |water to the W. of Lagia, and that
| | |there is no road with a direction
| | |of N. and S. lying to the W. of
| | |Lagia.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
108.—DONGOLA TO BIR SULTAN (ARBAIN ROAD).
BY CAPTAIN H. HODGSON, FEBRUARY, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Dongola, or | — | — |After half an hour’s marching,
Gharbi Dongola| | |reached buildings of former
| | |District, which stand 1 mile from
| | |mosque on E. bank by range-finder,
| | |and at an angle of 78° (magnetic).
| | |Left at 9 a.m. Going easy over
| | |hard sand. Marched parallel with
| | |river until near Kheleiwa as
| | |marked on map (Debba Sheet 45,
| | |E.), then turned W. and marched
| | |about 2 hours to well.
| | |
| | |At Kheleiwa on river there are old
| | |ruins. A legend has it that there
| | |is an underground passage from
| | |these ruins to the well in the
| | |desert to the W.
| | |
_Kheleiwa | 19¾ | 19¾ |Kheleiwa well stands in the centre
Well_ (1st | | |of a mound covered with broken
halt) | | |burnt bricks; the first 6 or 8
| | |feet from the surface is built
| | |with stone, then it is dug into
| | |solid rock; on lowering a candle
| | |to within 6 feet of the water, the
| | |sides disappear from view, and
| | |apparently there is a wide chamber
| | |at bottom of well; candle burnt
| | |freely, water 2½ feet deep, depth
| | |of well to water 96 feet.
| | |
_Bir El | 32¼ | 52 |Marched at 2.30 a.m. The track is
Marghum_ (2nd | | |well defined, being the main road
halt) | | |from Debba to Wad El Gab, and is
| | |easy going the whole way,
| | |direction about 330° (magnetic).
| | |About 24 miles from Kheleiwa Well
| | |ground begins to fall, and the
| | |Wadi El Gab may be said to begin.
| | |
| | |El Marghum is the most southern
| | |well in El Gab and one of the
| | |deepest, being about 20 feet deep
| | |before reaching water, and is
| | |stone lined, water good, cool, and
| | |pleasant to drink, depth of water
| | |3½ feet, and reported always
| | |plentiful. This well is said to be
| | |6 hours from Khandak with an easy
| | |road. Near well are one or two
| | |good sayal trees and selem bushes,
| | |but no date palms.
| | |
_Awene_ | — | — |Marched at 7.30 a.m., track from
| | |El Marghum to Um Hagar, direction
| | |330°. After 1½ miles a track
| | |branches to Shoki at direction
| | |295°. Sheikh Mohammed Awadalla,
| | |the head of the Gunganab, one of
| | |the largest of the Kababish sub-
| | |tribes, lives at Awene. The water
| | |of this well is about 8 feet from
| | |surface and luke warm, it lies
| | |about 6 miles from Marghum; there
| | |are a number of fine sayal trees
| | |about, as well as date and dom
| | |palms; good shade.
| | |
_El Agari_ | — | — |This is a small well without stone
| | |facing, water cooler and
| | |pleasanter to drink than Awene,
| | |lies 1½ miles from latter.
| | |Surrounded by selem bushes.
| | |
Id Wad Medawi | — | — |Dwelling of the former Sheikh of
| | |Gunganab, an old man, reported age
| | |115 years, very feeble; a number
| | |of date trees near here, and track
| | |to Millan passes a number of tukls
| | |used during date harvest season.
| | |
_Bir Millan_ | 14 | 66 |This well, about 14 miles from
| | |Marghum, is surrounded by about 20
| | |big sayal trees giving good shade,
| | |there is also a lot of littel
| | |shrub on dunes near; it is
| | |impossible to approach well from
| | |S., owing to the shifting sand
| | |dunes; this well is practically
| | |the limit of the Wadi El Gab.
| | |Water good and plentiful.
| | |
| | |From Millan track runs nearly due
| | |W., crossing a district called
| | |Imsinni, where a number of goats
| | |are grazed, being watered every
| | |third day at Millan.
| | |
Um Hagar (3rd | 6½ | 72½ |A stone-lined well, at present
Halt) | | |filled with sand to within 6 feet
| | |of the mouth. Sand is damp and
| | |might easily be cleared. The
| | |Kababish do not use well for fear
| | |of the Bedaiat, who raided this
| | |well and Matassi in 1902. Good
| | |grazing for camels.
| | |
_Matassi_ (4th| 9 | 81½ |From Um Hagar track runs nearly
halt) | | |due W., the going is indifferent;
| | |a little grazing on hadr on the
| | |way. Matassi lies in a plain some
| | |5 or 6 square miles in extent;
| | |water is very plentiful and about
| | |3 feet from surface; watered 70 or
| | |80 camels from the four or five
| | |pans that were open with ease; the
| | |water is cool, pleasant to drink,
| | |and seems to have the property of
| | |cooling very rapidly after
| | |boiling. Kababish captured camels
| | |from Bedaiat here two years ago. A
| | |few wild date palms, but
| | |practically no shelter from sun or
| | |wind.
| | |
__Murrat_ | 5 | 86½ |General direction W. Murrat, about
| | |5 miles from Mutassi, is a low-
| | |lying plain, containing a few
| | |selem bushes, and three or four
| | |groups of date and dom palms;
| | |water easily found, but it is
| | |bitter and undrinkable; going
| | |fair; black rock predominates.
| | |
El Hofra | 4½ | 91 |A plain encircled on E. and S. by
| | |a ridge, and on the N. by high
| | |sand dunes, some littel shrub, and
| | |a few dom palms. One dom palm
| | |which formerly had a well next it
| | |is now buried in a sand dune which
| | |has moved a ¼ of a mile in last 10
| | |years. No shelter from N. wind or
| | |sun.
| | |
Sixth halt | 23½ | 114½ |General direction 230° to 240°,
| | |going easy; about 12th or 13th
| | |mile from El Hofra found a few
| | |patches of grass, indicating rain
| | |here last season. About 17th mile
| | |going becomes more difficult and
| | |ground rises. At 20th mile a high
| | |conical (?) is reached, from which
| | |plateau of Jebel Abiad is to be
| | |seen; erected a pile of stones at
| | |this point. Ground then slopes
| | |down, and track lies through a
| | |depression until at 23rd mile a
| | |plain is reached, extending 17
| | |miles to bluff of Jebel Abiad.
| | |Here there is some hadr grass,
| | |affording some grazing. The plain
| | |is scattered with lava-like
| | |stones.
| | |
Seventh halt | 32½ | 147 |General direction due W. to a
(on plateau of| | |ravine in Jebel Abiad. The J.
J. Abiad) | | |Abiad is a steep bluff of gypsum,
| | |running from N. to S.; it is the
| | |same range as is skirted by track
| | |from Dongola to Lagia Wells. After
| | |ascending bluff direction is
| | |W.S.W., across a plateau with a
| | |very gentle slope down towards the
| | |W.; surface is shingle scattered
| | |with agates and flints. Could
| | |obtain no shelter to halt near.
| | |
Tundubi (8th | 24 | 171 |About 1 hour after leaving last
halt) | | |halt passed a rocky patch of
| | |ground, where the track is well
| | |defined, the only place where old
| | |lines of tracks are seen, being
| | |about 18 miles from bluff. About
| | |28 miles from bluff crossed a
| | |valley containing gottab grass and
| | |some other grazing. At Tundubi a
| | |well had been opened recently, and
| | |my party, after deepening it to
| | |nearly 30 feet, were able to water
| | |about six camels and fill up
| | |skins. Latest report is that the
| | |well has been filled in
| | |maliciously. There is abundance of
| | |gottab, hadr, and akol, giving
| | |good grazing, also some fine
| | |tundub trees and selem bushes. A
| | |quantity of senna also grows here.
| | |
Ninth halt | 27 | 198 |General direction W.S.W. (at 250°
| | |by P. compass), very easy
| | |undulating country.
| | |
Tenth halt | 12½ | 210½ |About 31 miles from Tundubi met a
| | |caravan, on descending into a
| | |valley, along which the track
| | |lies. Easy going. No shelter. Saw
| | |ostrich tracks.
| | |
Eleventh halt | 28½ | 239 |Easy going all day; general
| | |direction W. Jebel Raya is seen
| | |some 10 miles away to the S.; it
| | |lies on the road from El Ain to
| | |Bir Sultan. Found a good place to
| | |halt, with a few tundub trees and
| | |some hadr scrub.
| | |
Twelfth halt | 23 | 262 |Same general direction W. After 3
| | |miles descended into a deep sandy
| | |khor, containing some hadr scrub
| | |(difficult going), marched along
| | |it for an hour in direction 250°;
| | |then crossed a rocky ridge for 10
| | |miles, then an open plain of
| | |shingle for 5 miles, and down
| | |another khor of deep sand with
| | |clumps of hadr scrub in it,
| | |direction 260°. Then direction
| | |changed constantly to avoid
| | |conical hills. Halted on rocky
| | |ground.
| | |
_Milani_ | — | — |Two hours’ easy marching and then
| | |2 hours across an exposed plateau
| | |of rocky ground, before reaching a
| | |steep descent down to Milani; a
| | |thick clump of selem trees in the
| | |Natron valley. At Milani water is
| | |apparently very plentiful, the
| | |sand between the dunes being wet
| | |and brown. Did not try to obtain
| | |water, as, though drinkable, it is
| | |reported not to be so good as the
| | |water found at Sultan, 3 miles
| | |away.
| | |
_Bir Sultan_ | — | — |Sultan, a low-lying area of about
| | |a ¼ mile square of uneven ground
| | |covered with tussocks of halfa
| | |grass. Water easily obtained and
| | |plentiful. I found two or three
| | |pans open, at which animals can
| | |get to the water themselves. There
| | |are five or six date palms, also
| | |grasses such as tamam, halfa,
| | |taklis, but no shrubs, at Sultan.
| | |It lies nearly due S. of J.
| | |Kashaf.
| | |
_Natron | 21 | 283 |The best natron bed lies about 2
diggings (13th| | |miles away from the water at
halt) | | |Sultan by the shortest and most
| | |direct route to the river, it is
| | |probably not more than 250 miles
| | |instead of the 283 I travelled.
| | |The diggings have the appearance
| | |of a sandy salt pan, from which
| | |sea water has run off, the sand
| | |being encrusted with a white salt-
| | |like substance. To obtain the
| | |natron the upper surface of sand,
| | |about 2 inches to 4 inches, is
| | |cleared away, until the natron, a
| | |substance resembling rock salt, is
| | |reached. The top part is usually
| | |bad, being half sand; then there
| | |is a seam of ½ inch to 2 inches of
| | |good natron, again below a little
| | |bad natron, and below all sand
| | |again. Sometimes all the natron is
| | |spoilt by being mixed with sand.
| | |The whole place is scattered with
| | |scores and scores of oryx and
| | |addax horns, which seem to have
| | |been the tool, since time
| | |immemorial, with which to dig out
| | |the natron.
| | |
Jebel Kashaf | — | — |Jebel Kashaf lies 2,400 yards from
| | |the natron diggings, and E. of
| | |them at direction 133°; it is a
| | |high conical hill centrally
| | |situated in the northern part of
| | |the valley, and from its summit
| | |the whole valley and various
| | |halting places are overlooked. To
| | |the S. and S.W. is a level plain,
| | |reaching to the horizon without
| | |landmarks.
| | |
| | |The Arbain road runs S.S.W.
| | |apparently, to a place called Domi
| | |(1 day), where there are a few dom
| | |palms, and then from there
| | |branches to Meidob and to Zaghawa,
| | |which latter is reported to be 5
| | |or 6 days from Natron valley in a
| | |S.W. direction.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
109.—DEBBA TO EL OBEID.
(ROUTE DURING RAINS).
COMPILED FROM VARIOUS SOURCES, APRIL, 1903.
(_Distances only roughly approximate_).
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Debba | — | — |
| | |
_Um Belila_ | 35 | 35 |Hole in sandy bed of wadi, about
| | |12 feet down to water’s edge.
| | |Excellent water and any quantity,
| | |amount depends on digging.
| | |
_El Amra_ | 43 | 78 |Water good and plentiful,
| | |obtainable by digging in sandy bed
_Hobagi_ | 67 | 145 | of wadi. From here during the
| | |rains travellers go to Hobagi,
| | |where there is a hofra which
| | |contains no water in the dry
| | |season.
| | |
_Haraza_ | 60 | 205 |Water good and plentiful from a
| | |spring at foot of jebel. From
| | |thence _viâ_ Kajmar to El Obeid.
| | |_Vide_ also route 81, Chap. VIII.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
N.B.—During the dry season, merchants do not travel _viâ_ Hobagi,
as the hofra there is then dry. A considerable détour is made from
El Amra to Elai, thence to Habisa, where there many wells, and thence
to Bagbag Wells and Kajmar.
110.—DEBBA TO OMDURMAN.
MAJOR H. V. RAVENSCROFT, JANUARY, 1900.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Debba Camp | — | — |On leaving camp, a southerly
| | |direction is taken over sandy
| | |ground, leaving Wadi El Melh on
| | |right.
| | |
J. Khattab | 7 | 7 |Hill on either side of track.
| | |
_J. Kufri_ | 3 | 10 |Two wells on track, one in use,
| | |recently repaired by Government.
| | |
J. Birget El | 11 | 21 |Water about 55 feet from surface;
Merafib | | |no rope, so could not taste it.
| | |Six miles from left of track.
| | |
| | |Open desert.
| | |
Kaser El | 4 | 25 |One old well called Atesh, closed
Fokani | | |for a long time. Well-marked
| | |track.
| | |
Khor Kaser | 1 | 26 |On right of track, 400 yards wide.
| | |After this the road runs in khor
| | |for 10 miles, as far as El Magari.
| | |
El Magari | 10⅔ | 36⅔ |
| | |
J. Nesub El | 8 | 44⅔ |Range of hills 1½ miles from right
Arda | | |of track. After this the hills
| | |gradually close in to right of
| | |track.
| | |
| 3⅓ | 48 |Track passes over low hills. Nesub
| | |El Arda 80 feet high. After ½ mile
| | |another small detached hill,
| | |similar to El Magari, and low
| | |hills on right, 400 yards from
| | |track.
| | |
Wadi Maleiga | 2 | 50 |Good grazing for camels.
| | |
_Abu Sayal_ | 4 | 54 |Good water in small khor about 600
| | |yards from right of track can be
| | |got for a distance of 150 yards by
| | |digging 8 feet to 10 feet from
| | |surface. One small green tree and
| | |usher bushes mark spot. Water at
| | |present plentiful, but guides
| | |state that in dry season supply
| | |becomes small. No people here.
| | |
J. Nesub El | 1⅓ | 55⅓ |Range of hills 1,500 yards on
Gelud | | |right of track. No more hills on
| | |left.
| | |
_Wadi Gelud_ | 1⅔ | 57 |One well reported under hill,
| | |supply small in dry season, about
| | |3 miles from right of track. Khor
| | |500 yards wide. Good grazing for
| | |camels.
| | |
Ereishat | 5⅔ | 62⅔ |Dry grass and a few bushes. In
| | |Gordon’s time there was a large
| | |shelter here for travellers and
| | |merchants.
| | |
J. Nesub El | — | — |Three miles from right of track. A
Shabra | | |continuous range of low hills on
| | |right. Open country on left.
| | |
J. Abu Sideir | 2⅔ | 65⅓ |Two miles from right of track.
| | |From here a track to El Boreiga
| | |winds off ½ mile right.
| | |
Khor Abu | 3⅓ | 66⅔ |1,000 yards wide; good grazing for
Sideir | | |camels. Range of black hills 3
| | |miles from right of track. After
| | |1⅓ miles track crosses another
| | |piece of Khor Abu Sideir and two
| | |other small khors, the hills on
| | |right being then 6 miles off; on
| | |left flat open country.
| | |
Wadi Umanagil | 6 | 72⅔ |After this low range of hills 600
| | |yards from and parallel to track,
_Abu Heglig_ | 2 | 74⅔ |a few flocks grazing here in Khor
(water) | | |Boreiga. Good water in khor to be
| | |obtained for a distance by digging
| | |10 feet from surface.
| | |
| | |Khor 600 yards to 800 yards wide;
| | |good grazing; six wells in use
| | |here.
| | |
| 2 | 76⅔ |Track passes through gap in spur
| | |running from two hills called Um
| | |Kheirit and El Wabri, 2 miles from
| | |right of track. J. El Minget
| | |(perhaps 30 miles distant) visible
| | |on left; salt is obtained from
| | |this mountain.
| | |
_Khor Wabri_ | 1⅓ | 80 |Hills 4 miles from right of track.
| | |Water in khor like a canal, 4
| | |yards broad, and 4 feet 6 inches
| | |in depth. After this open desert;
| | |rain marks; no track.
| | |
| 2⅓ | 82⅓ |Small low sand hills on either
| | |side of the track. Going a little
| | |heavy for first time since leaving
| | |Debba.
| | |
Wadi Abu | 5 | 87⅓ |Broad khor; some grass and bushes;
Hashim | | |good going; open desert on both
| | |sides.
| | |
Dondib El Gedi| 1 | 88⅓ |Old halting place, a few bushes on
| | |either side of track. After heavy
| | |rains Arabs used to sow dura here.
| | |
Wadi Drais | 1⅔ | 90 |Low hill 1½ miles long, 1 mile
| | |from left of track; well reported
| | |by guide under hill, spot marked
| | |by big tree; well not in use. This
| | |well is in Wadi Abu Usher.
| | |
Wadi Abu Usher| 2⅓ | 92⅓ |Broad khor, dry grass and usher
| | |bushes. J. Abu Usher 1 mile from
| | |right of track; long black hill.
| | |
Khor Derail | 2⅔ | 95 |Small khor; black rocks and hills
| | |on right of track.
| | |
_Abu Inderab_ | 2 | 97 |One well in khor in a sort of cave
| | |15 feet deep; water plentiful,
| | |very clear and sweet. Men have to
| | |descend into the cave to get
| | |water, which is 2½, feet deep;
| | |guide reports water plentiful here
| | |at all times of the year. Sides of
| | |cave hard sandy clay; diameter of
| | |cave at surface 6 feet, opening
| | |out as you go down. Khor 120 yards
| | |wide. Usher bushes and some
| | |grazing for camels. Range of black
| | |hills 200 feet to 300 feet high,
| | |2½ miles from track on right and
| | |remaining parallel with it.
| | |
Khor El Kelab | 3½ | 100½ |Broad khor, a lot of usher bushes,
(Warrania) | | |nearly all dying. J. El Kelab 3
| | |miles from right of track, with
| | |low range of black hills between
| | |track and it. Track in khor for 1⅓
| | |miles.
| | |
Khor El Kelab | 1⅓ | 101⅚ |Joins Khor El Kelab (Warrania),
(Godamia) | | |and the two khors then run east on
| | |left of track. Jebel El Kelab a
| | |continuous range 4 miles long, and
| | |2 miles to 3 miles from right of
| | |track.
| | |
| 3⅔ | 105½ |Beginning of J. Gumr 1 mile from
| | |right of track. Going sandy and
| | |good; tufts of dry grass.
| | |
_Wadi Gumr_ | 2⅔ | 108⅙ |To east of track, in khor, good
(water) | | |place for sowing dura after heavy
| | |rains. Excellent grazing about 3
| | |miles west of track; water very
| | |near surface and can always be got
| | |in khor by digging. A few Arabs
| | |here. Range of hills, J. Gumr, 1½
| | |miles from right of track.
| | |
J. Maagil Gumr| 3 | 111⅙ |One thousand yards from left of
| | |track, with low spur running down
| | |to track, and another running
| | |parallel with road for 1½ miles.
| | |
| 1 | 112⅙ |Low hill on right, close to track,
| | |½ mile long.
| | |
| ⅔ | 112⅚ |Continuous range of hills on right
| | |3 miles off. A gap opposite here,
| | |300 yards long, called Feg Gumr.
| | |J. Wad El Melih begins after Feg
| | |Wadi Gumr. Wadi Gumr runs under
| | |range parallel to it.
| | |
Um Aragib | 1⅓ | 114⅙ |On left of track; bushes, black
| | |stones; good going on ten to
| | |twelve camel tracks. Hill on right
| | |5 miles distant.
| | |
J. Maagil Wad | 3⅓ | 117½ |Small hill 300 yards from right of
El Melih | | |track, with prominent point 60
| | |feet high.
| | |
Khor Wad El | 1½ | 119 |Many dead usher bushes.
Melih | | |
| | |
| 1½ | 120½ |On right, range of hills, after
| | |being 10 miles distant, comes in
| | |to within ½ mile of track, and
| | |from here runs parallel with it.
| | |
| 2 | 122½ |End of J. Wad El Melih 1½ miles
| | |from right of track, after this J.
| | |El Shab.
| | |
Khor El Shab | 3⅓ | 125⅚ |El Shab 2½ miles from right of
| | |track; good going.
| | |
Khor Abu Usher| 3 | 128⅚ |Small khor; dying osier bushes,
| | |some grazing. Hills on right, 6
| | |miles off. Khor on right winding
| | |from S. crosses track here.
| | |
| | |Well on right of road, no water,
| | |only in rainy season.
| | |
Khor Abuera | 4 | 132⅚ |Running from J. Abuera about 10
| | |miles on right, khor finishes
| | |here, none on left of track.
| | |Excellent going, well marked
| | |track, rain marks, flat open
| | |country, nothing in sight.
| | |
Khor Bohat | 7⅔ | 140½ |Small khor, some bushes. J. Bohat
| | |10 miles on right.
| | |
Gedemtina | 3 | 143½ |Old halting place. A few bushes,
| | |hard, sandy.
| | |
| 4⅓ | 147⅚ |Wadi Gabra on left, about 3 miles
| | |off; this khor stretches to Korti.
| | |
Wadi Medeisis | 1⅔ | 149½ |From hill on right joins Wadi
| | |Gabra, 2 miles from left of track.
| | |
_Gabra Wells_ | 6⅓ | 155⅚ |Four wells, water always
| | |plentiful, very sweet and clear,
| | |55 feet from surface; many flocks
| | |and some cows water here; wells in
| | |open space in middle of thick
| | |trees, with zeriba for flocks.
| | |
| | |Before arriving at wells track for
| | |4 miles through trees, mostly
| | |sunt, and nearly all dying; plenty
| | |of dry wood. Dervish zeriba S. of
| | |wells with Yunis’ house in centre
| | |and tukls of the Jehadia round it.
| | |
| 2 | 157⅚ |Up to here marked track, after
| | |this only visible at places owing
| | |to sand covering footprints on
| | |hard ground; uneven, but going
| | |good; bushes and grass everywhere;
| | |good grazing; gazelle.
| | |
Gerguf | 3 | 160⅚ |
| | |
Goz Abu Dluet | 5⅓ | 166⅙ |Excellent dry grass and bushes for
| | |camel grazing.
| | |
El Hanakat | 4 | 170⅙ |Low spur on either side of track,
| | |which is more distinct here and in
| | |a sort of khor 80 yards wide full
| | |of green bushes.
| | |
El Shegeig | 2⅔ | 172⅚ |About 1 mile on left of track;
| | |thick trees.
| | |
Id Anal | 4⅓ | 177⅙ |Sandy; trees and grass; ground
| | |slightly undulating.
| | |
Khor Id Anal | 3⅓ | 180½ |Very narrow khor; rain marks;
| | |sandy going.
| | |
Gala Fashfos | 8⅓ | 188⅚ |Main peak of Omdurman mountain in
| | |sight (Abu Leidat).
| | |
| 2 | 190⅚ |Small round hill (El Gesi) on
| | |left, 3 miles off.
| | |
El Hafir | 1⅓ | 192⅙ |J. El Magrun on left.
| | |
El Auti | 7⅓ | 199½ |J. Abu Leidat on left.
| | |
El Adara | 1 | 200½ |
| | |
| 1 | 201½ |Track goes between Merkhiat Hills.
| | |
J. Nesub El | 1 | 202½ |One isolated hill 1,000 yards from
Merkhiat | | |left of track.
| | |
| | |Merkhiat Hills on right.
| | |
| 1⅓ | 204⅙ |Track passes through gap in Nesub
| | |El Merkhiat, one hill on left
| | |close to path, on right hills come
| | |down close to track.
| | |
| 2⅔ | 206⅚ |Rifle ranges 1,200 yards on right.
| | |Going sandy, heavier than during
| | |any other part of route.
| | |
Omdurman | 1⅔ | 208½ |Beginning of houses.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
NOTE.—There are only four places on this road which can be relied
on for water at all times of the year, viz., Wabri, Abu Inderab,
Gumr, and Gabra.
111.—DEBBA TO OMDURMAN, _viâ_ ELAI.
COMPILED FROM VARIOUS SOURCES, APRIL, 1903.
N.B. This is not the direct road, but water is obtainable more
frequently. Distances only roughly approximate.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Debba | — | — |
| | |
_Um Belila_ | 35 | 35 |Water plentiful. Three wells, 12
| | |feet deep (James, 1902).
| | |
_El Amri_ | 43 | 78 |Water plentiful (native
| | |information only).
| | |
_Abu Tawagia_ | 25 | 103 |One well, 8 feet deep; good water
| | |(James, 1902).
| | |
_Elai_ | 18 | 121 |Water, scarce in dry season, from
| | |two stone-lined wells (Currie,
| | |1903). From here, shortest way is
| | |to Gambar, but road stony and bad,
| | |and merchants generally go to Gumr
| | |(25 miles). _Vide_ Route 110.
| | |
_Gambar_ | 37 | 158 |Wells, water (?) (native
| | |information only).
| | |
_Gabra_ | 24 | 182 |Water plentiful, from many wells.
| | |
Omdurman | 56 | 238 |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
112.—AMBUGOL OR KORTI TO METEMMA.
FROM REPORTS BY MR. FOWLER, 1871, AND NUMEROUS OFFICERS OF THE NILE
EXPEDITION, 1885.
----------------+--------------------+--------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
----------------+-------------+------+--------------------------------
Ambugol | — | — |Possesses abundant indications,
| | |in the remains of an ancient
| | |masonry pier and in the
| | |considerable ruins in the town,
| | |of having been formerly of much
| | |greater importance. It was
| | |selected as the point at which
| | |the projected Sudan railway
| | |should leave the Nile, and
| | |strike across the Bayuda Desert.
| | |
_Korti_ | — | 4 |From Ambugol the caravan route
| | |follows the bank of the river
| | |for a few miles to Korti, and
| | |then branches off into the
| | |desert in a westerly direction.
| | |
| | |After about 25 miles, it strikes
| | |the Wadi Abu Gir and continues
| | |along it for many miles. Mr.
| | |Fowler states that the water is
| | |to be procured by sinking wells
| | |along the course of this wadi,
| | |and that its bed for its entire
| | |length is filled with all the
| | |vegetation of the Bayuda Desert—
| | |shrubs and grass, which are
| | |invaluable both as fuel, and as
| | |food for flocks.
| | |
| | |Water reservoirs, in tins, were
| | |established in March, 1885, at
| | |hills 12 and 30 miles
| | |respectively from Korti, as the
| | |wells at Hambok and Haweiyat
| | |showed signs of giving out.
| | |
_Hambok_ | 47 | 51 |Wells.
| | |
_El Haweiyat_ | 8 | 59 |Wells. Yielding in February,
| | |1885, 310 gallons daily, but
| | |decreasing. Three wells, 6 feet
| | |deep, open in February, 1897.
| | |
| | |Near the mountain of El
| | |Mesalima, situated a little to
| | |the right of the track, there is
| | |an abundance of small timber.
| | |
| | |In December, 1871, and January,
| | |1872, water in pools was found
| | |in many of the ravines issuing
| | |from the Jebel Gilif range. The
| | |plain S. of this range has a
| | |good deal of scrub upon it, and
| | |is said to be flooded
| | |occasionaly during the rains to
| | |a depth of 3 feet to 4 feet.
| | |
Miljik | — | — |Five miles E.S.E. of Haweiyat
| | |and 1½ miles from the track;
| | |reported to have a good supply
| | |of rainwater like Jakdul. Found
| | |to be dry, February, 1885.
| | |
_Abu Alik_ | — | — |Four miles E.S.E. of Miljik.
| | |Good supply of water in wells 6
| | |to 8 feet deep. Too far from
| | |track for practical use.
| | |
_Zobrik El Kelb_| 14 | 73 |A plainly defined hill of
(Miglig) | | |curious shape. One mile N. of it
| | |are the wells of Miglig (Megaga,
| | |or El Kelb). Natural reservoirs
| | |of rainwater. These are two
| | |pools situated up a narrow
| | |ravine. The lowest, containing
| | |5,000 gallons, is fit for camels
| | |and horses. The upper pool, 100
| | |yards beyond, contains over
| | |100,000 gallons of pure clear
| | |water. Tanks full, February,
| | |1897, but water unclean; tastes
| | |stagnant.
| | |
| | |These estimates (14th February,
| | |1885, by Colonel Todd, R.E.)
| | |were taken when the upper pool
| | |was 4 feet, and the lower 7
| | |feet, below its high water
| | |level.
| | |
_Abu Halfa_ | 17 | 90 |The wells of Abu Halfa, situated
| | |about 3½ miles N. of the camel
| | |track, consist of holes made in
| | |dry river bed. They vary in
| | |depth from 5 feet to 10 feet,
| | |and in diameter from 3 feet to 4
| | |feet.
| | |
| | |Some distance further up the
| | |Wadi Abu Halfa there is a large
| | |pool surrounded by dom palms,
| | |which is said never to be dry.
| | |Close by this pool is a conical
| | |black hill, surmounted by a
| | |natural breastwork; excellent
| | |landmark.
| | |
| | |Water is to be found nearly
| | |everywhere in this wadi, a foot
| | |or two below the surface, and is
| | |visible in several places at the
| | |foot of rocks.
| | |
| | |To a breadth of ½ mile on each
| | |side of river bed, acacia trees
| | |abound, and there is beautiful
| | |tabas grass; this, with the
| | |trees, forms the principal food
| | |of the flocks and herds—goats,
| | |camels, and cattle—belonging to
| | |the desert Arabs.
| | |
| | |For about 6 miles after leaving
| | |Abu Halfa, the ground falls
| | |slightly, about half this
| | |distance being over a sandy
| | |desert, with sandstone rocks
| | |cropping up all round.
| | |
| | |The ground then rises gently,
| | |and enters country wooded
| | |thickly with acacia, and covered
| | |with coarse grass.
| | |
| | |On the W. stand isolated rocks
| | |of sandstone, and on the E. is
| | |seen the extension of the range
| | |from Abu Halfa, which vanishes
| | |with an abrupt turn eastward.
| | |
_Jakdul_ | 10 | 100 |The wells of Jakdul, situated in
| | |one of the torrent gorges of
| | |Jebel Gilif, about 3 miles from
| | |the camel track, consist of
| | |three large water-worn cavities,
| | |each at a different level, and
| | |shut in by precipitous cliffs.
| | |The lowest of the pools forms an
| | |irregular oval in plan, about
| | |120 feet long by 60 feet broad,
| | |and for three-fourths of its
| | |length it is enclosed between
| | |perpendicular rocks. Whether any
| | |labour has been expended in
| | |making these excavations it is
| | |impossible to say, but it is
| | |evident that the cavities have
| | |been mainly produced by the
| | |torrents rushing through a small
| | |passage about 8 feet above the
| | |highest water level, and thus
| | |wearing away the softer portions
| | |of the rock to a considerable
| | |depth below the ground level.
| | |
| | |These reservoirs contain always
| | |sufficient water for two years’
| | |supply of the existing demand,
| | |and are never dry. The lowest
| | |well is daily visited by large
| | |numbers of animals, and the
| | |water is consequently unfit for
| | |any other use. The second pool,
| | |about 10 feet above the first
| | |one, lies in the bottom of an
| | |almost inaccessible channel, the
| | |sides of the gorge rising in
| | |some places nearly
| | |perpendicularly to a height of
| | |about 80 feet from the water.
| | |
| | |The approximate length of this
| | |pool is 200 feet, and its width
| | |is 40 feet. The quality of the
| | |water is excellent, and from
| | |this and the upper pool the
| | |skins used to carry drinking
| | |water are filled, a cord and
| | |bucket being employed to raise
| | |the water. The third pool is
| | |about 5 feet higher than the
| | |second, and lies in a direction
| | |at right angles to it. Its size
| | |is about 80 feet by 15 feet.
| | |
| | |A very tortuous and contracted
| | |channel, about 20 feet long, and
| | |3 feet wide at the bottom, forms
| | |the connection between the
| | |second and the lowest pool.
| | |Above this the gorge widens out,
| | |and by the construction of a
| | |dam, a fine reservoir and ample
| | |water supply might be obtained.
| | |
| | |These wells, forming the chief
| | |water supply on the
| | |Korti—Metemma route, were found
| | |ample for the requirements of
| | |the Desert Column, 2nd January
| | |to 15th March, 1885, but would
| | |not have lasted another
| | |fortnight.
| | |
| | |About 1 mile up the ravine,
| | |above the wells, are two more
| | |reservoirs, each holding
| | |(January, 1885) about the same
| | |as the middle Jakdul reservoir.
| | |They were not used in 1885.
| | |Numerous gazelle.
| | |
| | |After leaving Jakdul, the
| | |country for a few miles is
| | |entirely devoid of vegetation,
| | |but further on it is for the
| | |most part covered with a sandy
| | |deposit, producing tabas grass
| | |and acacia.
| | |
_El Fura_ | — | — |Eight or nine miles east of the
| | |wells of Jakdul, and some miles
| | |from the caravan track, are the
| | |wells El Fura. They consist of a
| | |number of holes, 3 or 4 feet in
| | |diameter, and a few feet in
| | |depth, and are sunk in the usual
| | |manner in the channel of a large
| | |river bed—Fura. They are rudely
| | |excavated and are unlined, their
| | |falling in, therefore, is a
| | |matter of frequent occurrence,
| | |and these accidents are repaired
| | |by the excavation of new holes.
| | |A basin with puddled sides is
| | |formed on the surface for the
| | |use of animals. During the rainy
| | |season the holes are rapidly
| | |filled with deposit, and they
| | |have then to be re-made. On the
| | |other hand, in the dry season,
| | |the wells are gradually
| | |deepened, as the water level
| | |falls through use, absorption,
| | |and evaporation. Cattle, sheep,
| | |and goats are driven here in
| | |large numbers. It is the custom
| | |during the hot season to water
| | |the sheep and goats once every
| | |four days, and the cattle every
| | |other day. In the winter season
| | |they are driven to the wells
| | |every sixth and fourth day
| | |respectively. The water at these
| | |wells is good, and the supply
| | |generally plentiful. Only once
| | |within the 30 years preceding
| | |1872[34] had they dried up, and
| | |then only after a continued
| | |drought of two years.
| | |
| | |These wells, being off the
| | |track, were not used by the
| | |Desert Column, 1885.
| | |
| | |Before reaching Jebel-el-Nus, a
| | |tract where much drift sand
| | |prevails is reached. This drift
| | |sand usually travels from the E.
| | |to the W., under the influence
| | |of the prevailing winds, in the
| | |form of low mounds, in plan
| | |somewhat of a crescent form,
| | |with the convex side turned
| | |towards the wind. This slope of
| | |the mound is about 6 in 1, up
| | |which the sand constantly
| | |travels to the summit of the
| | |ridge, and then rolls down the
| | |sheltered side where the slope
| | |is 1 in 1, every sandhill having
| | |in windy weather a slow but
| | |constantly progressive action.
| | |As all traces of the beaten
| | |camel tracks are often
| | |obliterated, the Jebel-el-Nus is
| | |an invaluable landmark. Bad,
| | |soft going here.
| | |
Jebel el-Nus | 22 | 122 |It is a remarkable conical rock
| | |of sandstone, and stands out
| | |prominently in the landscape.
| | |
| | |After this a valley is
| | |approached in which the drift
| | |sand becomes heavier, but where
| | |trees and grass grow abundantly.
| | |
| | |On either side, however, the
| | |aspect of the ground is most
| | |forbidding, the rocks
| | |surrounding the valley, seen
| | |from an elevation, having the
| | |appearance of a troubled stormy
| | |sea.
| | |
| | |The drift sand continues in the
| | |valley only for a distance of
| | |about 3 miles.
| | |
Jebel-el-Sergein| 10 | 132 |After crossing a grass-grown
| | |wady that partially drains a
| | |range of hills on the W., Jebel-
| | |el-Sergein (or Saddle Hill),
| | |another remarkable desert
| | |beacon, is passed.
| | |
| | |The valley round Jebel-el-
| | |Sergein is fertile and contains
| | |much grass, and many groups of
| | |trees. As it affords good
| | |pasturage for camels, it is
| | |always selected for a resting-
| | |place when the traveller cannot
| | |reach the nearest wells.
| | |
| | |Beyond this another wadi is
| | |crossed. It is about a mile in
| | |width, and well covered with
| | |trees and grass.
| | |
| | |For the next 12 or 13 miles the
| | |route runs through the district
| | |of Ummat Handal.
| | |
| | |The first part of it is covered
| | |with much broken sandstone and
| | |loose rock. This is followed for
| | |3 or 4 miles by a stretch of
| | |sand, which further on gives way
| | |to a more agreeable country in
| | |which grass and trees are
| | |plentiful.
| | |
| 15½ | 147½ |The scene of the battle (17th
| | |January ’85) was 2½ miles
| | |further on, ½ mile S. of the
| | |usual track.
| | |
_Abu Klea (Abu | 4½ | 152 |Some more wadis and low
Tleh)_ | | |intervening hills are crossed
| | |till the wells of Abu Tleh are
| | |reached.
| | |
| | |These wells are sunk in the same
| | |manner as those of El Fura, but,
| | |as the soil does not stand so
| | |well, they are constantly
| | |falling in, and have, therefore,
| | |very frequently to be
| | |reconstructed. The water is
| | |excellent for drinking, and the
| | |supply is good, having failed
| | |only once within the 30 years
| | |preceding 1872. These wells are
| | |directly on the camel track to
| | |Metemma and are constantly
| | |visited by caravans. They also
| | |form a favourite watering place
| | |for the flocks and herds of the
| | |Arabs.
| | |
| | |The route now enters a valley
| | |with grass and trees, and after
| | |following it for some distance
| | |across a plain covered with sand
| | |and black boulders, succeeded by
| | |a more favourable district,
| | |capable of cultivation during
| | |the rains.
| | |
_Shebakat_ | 16 | 168 |A little further on occurs the
| | |well of Shebakat.
| | |
| | |This well is also directly on
| | |the caravan route. It is 12 feet
| | |in diameter and 50 feet in
| | |depth, excavated through the
| | |sandstone rock to a bed of sandy
| | |shingle. It is situate on an
| | |extensive plain amongst thick
| | |scrub and coarse grass, and as
| | |there is no water channel in its
| | |vicinity, the supply must be
| | |obtained from low-level springs.
| | |The water being brackish, it is
| | |unfit for drinking purposes, and
| | |it is thick and clouded. The
| | |supply is abundant and never
| | |failing in the driest seasons.
| | |Small puddled basins are formed,
| | |as at other wells, on the ground
| | |surface for the use of cattle.
| | |
| | |An acacia forest, traversed by
| | |the Desert Column on the night
| | |of 18th January, 1885, lies a
| | |mile or two S. of the ordinary
| | |track hereabouts.
| | |
| | |The track to Metemma now leads
| | |over light scrub and tussocky
| | |gravel; that to Abu Khru or
| | |Khrug and Gubat is similar, but
| | |with less scrub.
| | |
| | |The caravan route ends at
| | |Metemma, which is situated near
| | |the W. bank of the Nile, and is
| | |separated from the desert by a
| | |low line of hills.
| | |
Metemma | 8 | 176 |A considerable tract of fertile
| | |land, about 1,200 yards broad,
| | |dividing the town from the
| | |river, is occasionally inundated
| | |during the season of the floods.
| | |
| | |Metemma contained (1885) about
| | |3,000 inhabitants, and was in
| | |1897 and 1898 the headquarters
| | |of Mahmud and his men. It now
| | |(1903) contains 2,500
| | |inhabitants who are chiefly
| | |women.
| | |
| | |This town in 1885 consisted of
| | |mud houses with straw roofs,
| | |with one or two earthworks W. of
| | |the town; two or more mosques.
| | |Bombardment with small 7-lb.
| | |guns produced no effect on the
| | |houses, the shells passing
| | |through without damaging them.
| | |Setting roofs on fire of no use,
| | |as it did not destroy the
| | |houses. It is now (1903) only
| | |just beginning to recover from
| | |the effects of Mahmud’s
| | |occupation and massacre.
SUMMARY OF WATER SUPPLY.
Ambukol | — | — |On the Nile.
| | |
Korti | — | — |On the Nile.
| | |
Hambok | 47 | — |Wells.
| | |
El Haweiyat | 8 | 59 |Wells.
| | |
Magaga | 14 | 73 |Two good reservoirs 1 mile N. of
| | |track.
| | |
Abu Halfa | 17 | 90 |Wells, 3½ miles from the camel
| | |track.
| | |
Jakdul | 10 | 100 |Three miles N. of the caravan
| | |track. Abundant supply of water
| | |good for a large force.
| | |
El Fura | — | — |About 8 or 9 miles from Jakdul,
| | |and some miles from the caravan
| | |track. Wells—water good, supply
| | |generally plentiful.
| | |
Abu Tleh | 52 | 152 |Wells—water excellent, supply
| | |fairly plentiful.
| | |
Shebakat | 16 | 168 |One large well. Supply abundant
| | |and never failing, but the water
| | |is brackish, and only fit for
| | |animals.
| | |
Metemma | 8 | 176 |On the Nile.
| | |
Shendi | — | — |On the Nile 3 miles below
| | |Metemma.
----------------+-------------+------+--------------------------------
113.—KORTI TO BAYUDA AND SEDEIRI.
BY CAPTAIN V. BUNBURY AND VISCOUNT SUDLEY, MARCH, 1897.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Korti | — | — |Road indifferent going for
| | |infantry; suitable for cavalry.
| | |
_Um Tub_ | 35 | 35 |One permanent well here, 10 feet
| | |in diameter, sides faced with
| | |stone. Water, 125 feet below
| | |ground level, good; constant
| | |supply. Fourteen hods at the
| | |well’s mouth in good order.
| | |Country open, good grazing. Well
| | |in the middle of a gravelly rise,
| | |easy for defence. It took 5 hours
| | |to water 115 camels.
| | |
| | |For the first 3½ hours (10 miles)
| | |after leaving this the route is
| | |very bad going, especially for
| | |cavalry, and lies along a broken
| | |wadi and many stony bits. Ground
| | |on either side rocky, hilly;
| | |efficient scouting impossible.
| | |After the broken ground the route
| | |lies over open country, and is
| | |good for cavalry.
| | |
_Um Sunt | 30 | 65 |The wells here are in a khor which
Bayuda_ | | |runs from S. to N. at this point.
| | |Only two wells were open to any
| | |depth (about 10 feet), but were
| | |quite dry. Dug in both of them,
| | |but had to desist in one after a
| | |short time, as it was too narrow
| | |for a man to work in. In the
| | |other, reached water after 3
| | |hours’ digging at a depth of 23
| | |feet below the ground level. Water
| | |flowed freely, and was good.
| | |
| | |The wells are commanded from E.
| | |and W. by high ground immediately
| | |above the river bed, and from N.
| | |and S. by hills from 100 to 150
| | |feet high at a distance of 200
| | |yards, and from N.E. by a range of
| | |hills about 800 feet high at a
| | |distance of 1 mile.
| | |
| | |Ten days later this well was
| | |revisited and found to be dry.
| | |
| | |The next 4 miles are through the
| | |Wadi Bayuda defile. Road very bad
| | |here; flanked on either side by
| | |rocky hills, which appear to run
| | |far inland on both flanks. All
| | |scouting on flanks impossible.
| | |After heavy rains a flood of 9
| | |feet deep is said to pour
| | |northwards through this defile.
| | |
| | |Two miles further on lies
| | |
_Monasieb_ | 6 | 71 |or Um-el-Nasaib. Two wide-mouthed
| | |wells; water in one of them 8 feet
| | |down. A few hods. Trees and bushes
| | |growing close around; unsuitable
| | |place for watering beasts, and
| | |unfavourable for defence.
| | |
| | |Road good to
| | |
_Um Sedeiri_ | 3 | 74 |Many wells here, mostly unused.
| | |Three wide-mouthed wells and one
| | |narrow well, newly opened in the
| | |sand, had water in them about 6
| | |feet below ground level. The water
| | |in the former was unfit for human
| | |consumption, but the camels drank
| | |it freely; the water in the latter
| | |was good. After clearing away some
| | |of the mud and slime from the
| | |large wells water came fairly
| | |freely. Also obtained a constant
| | |supply of very good clear water by
| | |digging 2 feet in one of the
| | |unused wells; the hods at these
| | |wells are not numerous, and
| | |require repairing. I consider that
| | |any amount of water can be
| | |obtained here by a little digging;
| | |it is of good quality, and appears
| | |to be about 6 feet below ground
| | |level. I was informed that there
| | |is water here all the year round.
| | |
| | |A great quantity of long coarse
| | |grass grows round the wells and on
| | |each side of the river bed. The
| | |wells are commanded from N. to
| | |S.E. by high ground from 60 to 30
| | |feet high, at distances of 500 to
| | |150 yards from N. to S.E.; also
| | |from W. by ground about 30 feet
| | |high, at distances from 80 to 100
| | |yards from S. to N. Some large
| | |trees and the long grass above-
| | |mentioned would afford cover near
| | |to the wells.
| | |
| | |The road back to Um Tub (35 miles)
| | |is good and open, with the
| | |exception of the 10 miles
| | |mentioned above.
| | |
| | |The direct road Um Sedeiri to
| | |Korti (70 miles) is good going,
| | |but no water.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
114.—MEROWE TO JAKDUL.
BY MAJOR HON. M. G. TALBOT, AUGUST, 1898.
[Sidenote: General Remarks.]
Except for patches of sand, heavy for infantry and horses, the road
is good throughout, with the exception of the Magaga defile. Though
the road frequently changes from one bank to the other of the Khor
Abu Dom, up whose valley it generally proceeds till it crosses the
watershed into the Magaga basin, none of the crossings present any
difficulty; but there is always the danger in the summer months of
a spate caused by rain near the head.
Firewood and camel grazing are plentiful throughout, but there is
practically no grass for horses.
As far as, and including, Kalas the road may be considered as having
been traversed at the driest time of year.
N.B.—Party consisted of 1 Squadron (Cavalry), and 1 Company
(Camel Corps).
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Merowe | — | — |
| | |
Ghazali | 8¼ | 8¼ |General direction from Merowe, a
| | |little S. of E. No definite track.
| | |Troops can take shortest line
| | |across open plain, dotted with
| | |bushes and tabas grass. At 4 miles
| | |the Khor Abu Dom, whose very sandy
| | |bed is 100 yards wide, is struck,
| | |and the right bank ascended. At 6
| | |miles the low rocky hills close in
| | |to form a short, and very easy,
| | |defile; the hills soon recede and
| | |allow the valley to expand, and at
| | |7¼ miles the _first well_ is
| | |reached, at the foot of a low hill
| | |on right bank. A mile further on
| | |is _another well_ from which a
| | |small garden is supplied. There
| | |are one or _two water holes_ in
| | |between. Water good, plentiful,
| | |and near surface. No good camping
| | |ground.
| | |
_Hannek | 22¼ | 30½ |Road keeps up right bank of khor;
(Upper)_ | | |Geren hill at 3¾ miles marks site
| | |of well. At 5¾ miles road crosses
| | |to left bank at _Um Sayala wells_,
| | |and after 4 miles of good going
| | |through thickish scrub, Beida is
| | |reached. Both Geren and Um Sayala
| | |were said to have water, but were
| | |not visited. _Beida well_ is about
| | |20 feet deep. After a few minutes
| | |clearing out, it supplied a drink
| | |for all the horses. Good shade. At
| | |10¼ miles the road leaves the main
| | |khor, and keeps up an affluent
| | |called Ab Jowalis, which it leaves
| | |by a very low and easy saddle at
| | |14¼ miles, and after crossing the
| | |heads of many minor tributaries
| | |eventually returns to, and crosses
| | |the main bed of, the Khor Abu Dom
| | |at 20¼ miles. At ¼ to ½ mile below
| | |the point of crossing is the
| | |_Lower Hannek well_, which was not
| | |visited. After crossing, the track
| | |keeps up the right bank to _Hannek
| | |(Upper) well_ at 22¼ miles. The
| | |two wells here required clearing
| | |out, and then gave sufficient
| | |water of rather indifferent
| | |quality. Plenty of shade.
| | |
_Kalas_ | 32½ | 63 |The khor is crossed at ½ mile, and
| | |road then passes over an open
| | |plain, affording good going, until
| | |it strikes the khor again at _Um
| | |Jueiri well_ at 8½ miles. After
| | |this a few stony bits, and one or
| | |two stony ridges are crossed, with
| | |which exceptions road is excellent
| | |to _well at El Tawila_ at 14½
| | |miles. Water good; and well, after
| | |being a little cleaned out,
| | |afforded a drink for all horses,
| | |and some of the camels. Road
| | |continues good, and follows left
| | |bank of khor, except for a few
| | |hundred yards at 18½ miles, when
| | |the hills close in and drive it
| | |into the bed of the khor, under J.
| | |Lebarug. At 23½ miles it crosses a
| | |considerable branch of the khor,
| | |and at 26½ it crosses a low rocky
| | |saddle, and returns to basin of
| | |main khor Abu Dom, in bed of which
| | |at 28 miles is situated the _well
| | |of El Tueina_, lying about ⅓ mile
| | |to left of direct road to Kalas.
| | |From here to Kalas, 32½ miles, the
| | |road keeps crossing bed of khor,
| | |60 to 100 yards wide, and the
| | |narrow basin is enclosed by low
| | |irregular-shaped hills. _Two lots
| | |of wells at Kalas_, about 300
| | |yards apart. Water bad. Even after
| | |cleaning out, the horses and
| | |camels were watered with great
| | |difficulty. Little shade.
| | |
Abu Halfa | 25½ | 88½ |Road keeps up left bank over some
| | |stony ground, and crosses khor at
| | |2 miles and recrosses at 2½. After
| | |5 more miles of good going on the
| | |whole, the very low and easy
| | |saddle forming the watershed is
| | |reached at 7½ miles, and on
| | |crossing it the basin of the Wadi
| | |Magaga is entered. The road for
| | |the next 7 miles is down a
| | |gradually widening, but always
| | |stony, defile, along which it is
| | |preferable to lead horses almost
| | |the whole way. The path is mostly
| | |down the actual watercourse, which
| | |has all the characteristics of a
| | |mountain torrent. A dry water hole
| | |was passed at 10 miles, and some
| | |_pools of water_ at 13½ miles. At
| | |14½ miles the road emerges from
| | |the stony bed and crosses a low
| | |saddle at 15 miles, from which the
| | |first view of the plains to the S.
| | |is obtained. At 15¾, another low
| | |saddle is crossed, and the track
| | |then descends to the plain and
| | |keeps along the feet of the hills,
| | |crossing patches of stony ground
| | |alternating with flat khors,
| | |covered with scattered bush and
| | |thick tabas grass, to 25 miles,
| | |when it turns to left up Wadi Abu
| | |Halfa, and strikes the wells at 26
| | |miles, close to the junction of a
| | |tributary with the main khor, and
| | |at the foot of a low—but
| | |conspicuous—rocky hillock.[35]
| | |There is a _large pool_, said
| | |never to get dry, about ½ mile up
| | |the khor. Good camping ground.
| | |Some shade. Water plentiful.
| | |
_Jakdul_ | 10½ | 99 |Road crosses khor at once, and
| | |keeps straight along foot of
| | |higher hills, leaving some very
| | |low ones on its right. At 8 miles
| | |track turns to left up Wadi
| | |Jakdul, and reaches lower pool at
| | |10½ miles.
| | |
| | |The former descriptions of Jakdul
| | |still hold good, so it need not be
| | |described here. _Vide_ Route 112.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
115.—MEROWE TO BERBER, _viâ_ SANI.
BY CAPTAIN N. M. SMYTH (1897) AND COLONEL FRIEND (1902).
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Merowe | — | — |
| | |
El Dughayet | 14 | 14 |On left bank of Nile. Shaigia
| | |Arabs. Mud huts, and palms to
| | |shade one battalion in vicinity.
| | |Thorn bush and grazing for 1,000
| | |camels.
| | |
| | |A well-defined but narrow track,
| | |passable only in single or double
| | |file, leads across some rocky
| | |hills about 150 feet above level
| | |of High Nile, till at 6 miles it
| | |strikes the Khor Shingawi, which
| | |is broad and sandy, with a few
| | |scattered bushes.
| | |
Jebel El Dega | 8 | 22 |Is passed on the right of the
| | |road. From 6 to 8 miles the ground
| | |is firm, and admits usually of
| | |marching camels four abreast.
| | |
El Nus | 8 | 30 |El Nus is merely the name of a
| | |locality where the track crosses a
| | |spur from the north, whence Jebel
| | |El Ghanam is visible 10 miles
| | |north and Jebel El Khullal 5 miles
| | |south; no shade. Drainage, after
| | |Jebel El Dega crossed, flows
| | |south-west.
| | |
| | |The track generally continues
| | |good, mostly over hard shingle or
| | |firm sand. In many places several
| | |parallel tracks.
| | |
Jebel El | 10 | 40 |A rounded hill about 100 feet
Mgarfur (?) | | |high, is passed on the right. This
| | |is the first place where shade is
| | |to be got from thorn bushes. There
| | |is enough for about one battalion
| | |if scattered over about 2 square
| | |miles.
| | |
Um Geren | 5 | 45 |The well-known Arab camping
| | |ground, Um Geren, marked by a tall
| | |tree, is left ½ mile to the north
| | |of track in the wooded Khor Abu
| | |Siba.
| | |
_El Kua_ | 1½ | 46½ |The well El Kua is passed ½ mile
| | |north of track in the Khor Abu
| | |Siba. This well is 25 feet deep,
| | |and, though liable to run dry in
| | |winter, generally contains about 3
| | |feet of water from July to
| | |September.
| | |
_El Bar_ | 1½ | 48 |A similar well, El Bar, is passed
| | |½ mile to the north of track in
| | |the Khor Abu Siba, which all along
| | |here is well wooded with dom
| | |palms, sunt trees and bushes for
| | |camel grazing. Both these wells
| | |belong to the Hawawir sub-tribe of
| | |Monasir.
| | |
_Sani_ | 2 | 50 |Sani is a pool of rain-water with
| | |rock, sand, and shingle banks. It
| | |is said that the water is
| | |perennial, and if drunk dry, it
| | |refills to three-quarters former
| | |depth; more than 6 feet deep in
| | |centre. Water good; contained at
| | |time of visit about 26,000
| | |gallons. Thirty animals can drink
| | |at once; if buckets are used 60
| | |could drink. Sagias and
| | |cultivation.
| | |
_Abu Koreit_ | 14 | 64 |Many old wells, but disused, and
| | |water supply very small.
| | |
_Kurbai_ | 62 | 126 |Water, but supply bad.
| | |
_Abu Haraz_ | 19 | 145 |Well; good water.
| | |
Berber | 4 | 149 |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
116.—SANI TO EL ZUMA (NILE) _viâ_ JURA.
BY CAPTAIN ST. G. HENRY, AUGUST, 1897.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Sani Pool | — | — |Going good; in some places over
| | |rough, tussocky grass, but
| | |generally over firm sand. Features
| | |of country very indefinite, and
| | |drainage lines hard to trace;
| | |there is, however, no doubt that
| | |they all cross the track from
| | |right to left.
| | |
J. Sergein | 7 | 7 |From 6 to 8 miles the track
| | |crosses some rocky undulating
| | |ground. At 7 miles, J Sergein, or
J. El Hueish | 4 | 11 |Sargit, is left to the S., and the
| | |road passes N. of J. El Hueish, an
| | |isolated rocky hill with a patch
| | |of yellow sand halfway up.
| | |
| 21 | 32 |A branch of Wadi Argu or Argubi is
| | |now crossed. From this point J.
| | |Gormuli lay due N., and J. Ibnali
| | |(the mass of hills S. of Jura
| | |Well), lay due E.
| | |
| 15 | 47 |At 3 miles from Jura the track
| | |joins, in a branch of the Wadi
| | |Argu, the track from Kirbekan. At
| | |this point the direction of Sani
| | |bears 250 degrees magnetic
| | |(Tudway). For the next 3 miles the
| | |track winds in a south-easterly
| | |direction through low undulating
| | |hills, between the mass of the
| | |Jura range (J. Ibnali) on the
| | |right, and some sharp-pointed
| | |hills of considerable height on
| | |the left.
| | |
_Jura_ | 3 | 50 |The well at Jura is situated in a
| | |small rocky plain surrounded by
| | |hills N. of eastern end of J.
| | |Ibnali. It has been cut out of the
| | |solid rock and is about 2 feet in
| | |diameter. The water was about 6
| | |feet below the surface; it is good
| | |and sweet, and tastes like rain-
| | |water. One hundred camels were
| | |watered from it without emptying
| | |it. It is said never to dry up.
| | |There were formerly six other
| | |wells, equally good, close by, of
| | |which the marks are still visible.
| | |The natives say they only want
| | |cleaning out. Water can sometimes
| | |be got by scraping at the mouth of
| | |the khor about 110 yards distant.
| | |Near the well stands the ruin of a
| | |house, built at the time it was
| | |proposed to take the telegraph
| | |line to Berber by this route.
| | |
| | |It is a bad and confined camping
| | |ground, with very little shade,
| | |though there are a few dom palms
| | |and thorn bushes along the khor.
| | |Heat and dust very great.
| | |
| | |A flood is said to come down the
| | |khor once almost every year. The
| | |drainage appears to go to Wadi
| | |Argu.
| | |
El Zuma | 35 | 85 |On left bank Nile, opposite El
| | |Shereik. Government Rest House and
| | |ferry. There is also Rest House at
| | |Shereik.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
117.—JURA TO KIRBEKAN (ABOUT 1 MILE S.W. OF SITE OF BATTLE).
BY MAJOR TUDWAY AND CAPTAIN ST. G. HENRY, AUGUST, 1897.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Jura | — | — |
| | |
Wadi Argu | 3 | 3 |For the first 3 miles the track
| | |winds through low hills between
| | |main mass (J. Ibnali) and the two
| | |pointed hills to N. At 3 miles it
| | |strikes a branch of the Wadi Argu
| | |or Argubi. Here the Sani track
| | |branches off at a bearing of 250
| | |degrees magnetic, and the general
| | |direction of Kirbekan is 305
| | |degrees magnetic. The track
| | |continues in a north-westerly
| | |direction over undulating ground,
| | |draining from right to left to the
| | |Wadi Argu, passing a low hill
| | |called J. Barga, and striking into
| | |a main branch of the Wadi Argu,
| | |along which the road runs over an
| | |excellent track with good grazing
| | |and plenty of trees.
| | |
| 30 | 33 |At about 33 miles out from Jura,
| | |J. Gormuli, which is visible
| | |nearly the whole way, lay due N.
| | |
| | |As far as the 45th mile (Henry)
| | |the route continues to follow the
| | |Wadi Argu, when it turns up a khor
| | |to the left, and after some 11
| | |miles of a narrow, rocky pathway,
| | |descends to the river S.W. of J.
| | |Musa, the hill on which Kirbekan
| | |Battle was fought.
| | |
Kirbekan | 21 | 54 |The Wadi Argu joins the Nile at
| | |Kirbekan village. For the last 15
| | |miles of its course the trees and
| | |vegetation increase, and from the
| | |number of dom palms it is probable
| | |that water would be found near the
| | |surface. There is usually water in
| | |a rain pool, called El Sihani, 10
| | |or 12 miles from the river.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
118.—OMDURMAN TO GABRA.
BY COLONEL HON. M. G. TALBOT, R.E., NOVEMBER, 1903.
[Sidenote: General remarks.]
The only obstacles to taking a bee line for Gabra are the Abu Meru
or Merkhait hills, which have to be skirted either on the N. or on
the S., and the Goz Abu Delua which has to be crossed. The latter
is a belt of undulating ground, covered lightly with sand in some
places, and perhaps heavily in others, running generally in N.N.E. by
S.S.W. direction and probably varying in width. The best place to
cross it is at the Hanakat El Goz, where a khor cuts its way through
it. This may be looked on as an obligatory point, and it is here
and round the northern and southern sides of the Merkhiat hills only
that one sees signs of a definite path until within a few miles of the
wells. After rain, water is said to stand in a place called Shegeig or
Mushgeig near the Goz, otherwise there is no water on the road. After
passing the Merkhait hills firewood abounds and grass was plentiful
at the time of this journey. Trees are chiefly “samr” with a few
“kittr,” “heglig,” and other bushes. There is no “hashab”
as stated on Khartoum Sheet. A great deal of spear grass is met with,
and the guide informed me that, but for his skilful leading, I should
have met much more.
Owing to the absence of any track and the tussocky nature of the
“tabas” grass, the going is not good, except in the neighbourhood
of the Id Ennala.
The distances given in this route report are obtained by assuming
the camels to have marched at about 2½ miles an hour, checked by
measuring wheel; but the route taken was far from straight.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Omdurman | — | — |Left old steamer workshops, turned
| | |N. at corner of Sur wall and, when
| | |clear of houses, made straight for
| | |Abu Meru hills; halted N. of them;
| | |a little grass; no firewood.
Abu Meru | 8½ | 8½ |Distance from Khartoum Sheet.
| | |
| | |On clearing hills track
| | |disappeared. “Tabas” grass and
| | |“samr.”
| | |
_Stony ridge_ | 14 | 22½ |Crossed by stony ridge.
| | |
| | |Crossed by another stony ridge.
| | |
| | |Crossed Khor Um Muherib (?) said
| | |to flow into Id Ennala; not a very
| | |apparent drainage line.
| | |
Id Ennala | 14¼ | 36¾ |After passing one or two very
| | |minor khors, crossed Id Ennala;
| | |much “tabas” and “spear” grass.
| | |Many “samr” and a few “heglig” and
| | |“kittr” trees. Good grazing.
| | |Ground rather broken in a very
| | |small way, but difficult for
| | |camels at night.
| | |
_Shegeig_ | 8¼ | 45 |Passed a place on right called
| | |Shegeig or Mushgeig, where water
| | |stands after rain, and crossed to
| | |further side of Goz Abu Delua
| | |which had long been visible on
| | |left, parallel to route we
| | |followed. About a mile wide. The
| | |Hanakat is about 40 yards to 60
| | |yards wide and full of “marakh”
| | |bushes. It is said the old
| | |Government tried to find water
| | |here, but failed. It is said to
| | |join the Shegeig, which is joined
| | |by the Id Ennala and falls into
| | |Nile at Wadi Bishara.
| | |
| | |From up stream end of Hanak, Gabra
| | |is not visible, but the guide
| | |pointed it out as on 300°
| | |magnetic.
| | |
| | |The Hanakat seems to have but a
| | |small basin W. of Goz.
| | |
| | |Continued over slightly undulating
| | |plain with grass and scattered
| | |bushes.
| | |
| | |Passed some dura cultivation on
| | |left. Seemed a poor crop.
| | |
Wadi Mogaddam | 10 | 55 |Turned more to N.N.E. and dropped
| | |over low stony ridge into the
| | |valley of the Wadi Mogaddam. Well
| | |but not densely wooded. Marched on
_Gabra wells_ | 3½ | 58½ |bearing 330° magnetic to wells.
| | |
| | |There are at least 15 wells of 60
| | |to 70 feet depth. They water a
| | |very large number of animals
| | |daily. Level of water fluctuates
| | |with rain, after which the whole
| | |of the ground round the wells is
| | |said to be underwater. Remains of
| | |Dervish mud fort, circular, 12
| | |yards diameter, loop-holed towards
| | |north, bears about 150° from
| | |wells, which are 400 yards
| | |distant; short shelter trench E.
| | |of wells. No remains of zeriba.
| | |
| | |Many Kababish with large flocks
| | |and herds.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
119.—GABRA TO KORTI.
BY COLONEL HON. M. G. TALBOT, DECEMBER, 1903.
[Sidenote: General remarks.]
Till within a few miles of Korti the Wadi Mogaddam was practically
followed throughout. It seems not to be used at all as a caravan road,
as there is no track and no caravans were met. At the same time it
seems an easy road to Omdurman, and very straight as far as Gabra.
The country passed through is flat and uninteresting. No hills of
any remarkable height were seen, the highest being to the W. and
N.W. of Gabra.
None of those near the route exceed 200 feet to 250 feet, relative
height.
The Wadi Mogaddam consists of a depression marked by a belt of trees
or grass, without any water channel whatever. Evidently there is
never any flow of water on the surface of the wadi.
The belt of trees varies in width and character. At Gabra it must
be nearly ¾ mile wide, and thick though not dense. There are some
good “sayal,” “heglig,” “tundub,” and “samr” trees;
lower down the trees diminish in size, the “sayal” is rarely met,
and with the exception of a little “arak” and “kurmet” there
is hardly anything but “samr” to be seen, with “tundub” in
places. From Gaerin “selem” begins to be seen, and soon it becomes
the principal growth.
Below Um Harot no grass was seen except burnt-up “tabas,” but
that must depend on the year. On the whole, grazing for camels was
very fair, but practically none for horses.
The line taken presented no difficulties whatever in the way of rocks
or gradients. From a camel point of view there is no heavy sand,
but it is not recommended as a route for motor-cars.
No supplies to be obtained except sheep and milk. Firewood is plentiful
everywhere. Water seemed good everywhere except at Um Harot, where
it was a little salt. The wells are all about 120 to 140 feet deep,
except at Gabra, where they were 60 feet to 70 feet.
A guide is indispensable. With a guide there is no difficulty in
marching by moonlight.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Gabra | — | — |Left Gabra in a N.W. direction,
| | |and after a few minutes emerged
| | |from the trees on to the edge of
| | |the gently sloping plains, and
| | |turned north.
| | |
W. Um Deisis | 5½ | 5½ |After two hours along the left
| | |edge of Wadi Mogaddam, the Wadi Um
| | |Deisis is crossed. It comes from
| | |Gambar Wells and forms the
| | |northern boundary of the Kababish
| | |in the Wadi Mogaddam. It is marked
| | |by some trees and 2 or 3
| | |insignificant water channels, the
| | |only ones seen on the whole road.
| | |
| | |Soon after a low sandy hill, with
| | |a tree on it, can just be made out
| | |in the distance and serves as
| | |direction point. It is passed at
| | |about 5 hours from Gabra, being
| | |left on the right.
| | |
_Bir Hassanin_| 10½ | 16 |A little way further on Bir
| | |Hassanin, belonging to the
| | |Hassania, is passed. It is deeper
| | |than most, being about 144 feet.
| | |
_Um Harot_ | 4 | 20 |From this on we kept well to the
| | |left of the wadi and made straight
| | |for Um Harot well, 120 feet deep,
| | |belonging to the Geriat.
| | |
| | |It is situated on a bare bit of
| | |ground W. of the wadi and just
| | |where the Wadi Wohad joins it.
| | |
| | |On the E. of the Mogaddam, which
| | |is here narrow, is a low black
| | |elevation, called J. Deim Gibur.
| | |
| | |Kept for some miles more or less
| | |in the centre of the wadi, which
| | |is rather ill-defined; slight
_Bir El | 6 | 26 |rises of ground occur at intervals
Simira_ | | |on either bank. Reached Bir El
| | |Simiha, Geriat well, close under
| | |N.W. end of low black hill
| | |partially covered with sand.
| | |
| | |One and a-half hours further on,
| | |keeping to right of Mogaddam,
| | |passed a disused Geriat well
_Fanga Well_ | 5 | 31 |called Um Khenoit, situated in a
| | |bare space that had once been
| | |zeribaed, and 15 minutes further
| | |on reached Fanga well, Geriat.
| | |
Gaerin | 4 | 35 |Still keeping on right edge of
| | |Mogaddam, after another 1½ hours
| | |Gaerin wells are reached.
| | |
| | |There are several wells, about 120
| | |feet deep, in a bare space of
| | |about half a square mile. Wood all
| | |round, including much “selem.”
| | |From this on very little grass was
| | |seen.
| | |
| | |Kept along right edge of wadi, and
| | |after 1¼ hours crossed a wadi
| | |joining from E. Guide seemed to
| | |call it Wadi Teneida, but it was
_Bir El Agami_| 6 | 41 |difficult to catch. An hour
| | |further on the nearest point to
| | |Bir El Agami was passed. This is
| | |the northern Geriat well, and lies
| | |about a mile E. of route.
| | |
| | |After ¾ of an hour, the junction
| | |of the Wadi Melh is passed on the
| | |left.
| | |
_Bir Eminalla_| 10 | 51 |And 3 hours further on the first
| | |Hawawir well, Bir Eminalla, is
| | |reached.
| | |
| | |From here the wadi begins to be
| | |more or less restricted by rising
| | |ground on either side which does
| | |not open out till within an hour
| | |of Um Rumeila.
| | |
_Um Rumeila_ | 12½ | 63½ |This well is situated on a bare
| | |stony patch just where the Wadi
| | |Gumr joins the Mogaddam. Most of
| | |the latter wadi keeps to the E. of
| | |it. From this point the Gumr
| | |hills, which have been visible for
| | |some time, are at their nearest
| | |and appear not more than 20 or 25
| | |miles off. The plain, up to the
| | |sandy foothills, appears gently
| | |sloping and bare. The hills have
| | |the appearance of a long gravelly
| | |ridge of very uniform and no great
| | |height, but it is unlikely that
| | |they are of gravel. A few hills
| | |are visible to the N.W., and a
| | |group of low hills called Mingit
| | |bears 44° magnetic. Salt is
| | |obtained either from these hills
| | |or from the low ridges in their
| | |vicinity.
| | |
| | |Kept down wadi, passing junction
| | |of W. Anderab at about 4 miles, to
| | |junction of Wadi Hamid with
| | |Mogaddam. There is some “selem”
Wadi Hamid | 11 | 74½ |here; from this on it becomes more
| | |and more frequent. The Wadi Hamid
| | |comes from a low hill called Sud
| | |Wad Hamid or some such name.
| | |
| | |A few miles up it is joined by the
| | |W. Abu Sedeir, in which there is a
| | |Hawawir well, which lies on the
| | |road from Um Tub to Hanboti.
| | |
| | |After an hour along the right edge
| | |of wadi kept a little E. of N.
| | |over some broken ground for about
| | |two hours, and then returned to
| | |wadi and kept more or less up its
El Gab Abu | 14 | 88½ |right edge till within the group
Gambur | | |of hills called El Gab Abu Gambur.
| | |
| | |On the E. side of the southernmost
| | |of these hills, on the left bank,
| | |is an ancient enclosure said to
| | |have been built by the Anak. A
| | |semi-circular wall descending from
| | |the steep part of the hill
| | |encloses a bit of gently sloping
| | |ground near the base. The distance
| | |between the two horns is about 120
| | |yards, and the distance from the
| | |line joining the two ends to the
| | |lowest point is about 70 yards.
| | |
| | |The wall is 8 feet or 9 feet thick
| | |throughout, and 6 feet high at the
| | |lowest point of the hill,
| | |diminishing regularly to nothing
| | |as it ascends the hill.
| | |
| | |There is a gate at the lowest
| | |point, which is fairly well built,
| | |while the rest of the wall has a
| | |very peculiar appearance from all
| | |the stones being used upright on
| | |their ends. There is a legend that
| | |the Hawawir found a well there
| | |when they first came to the
| | |country.
| | |
| | |About an hour beyond the W. Eishat
| | |comes in on the right. Kept
| | |generally on the right edge of the
| | |wadi, in some places keeping on
| | |the sloping ground above it; a
| | |good many low hills W. of wadi.
| | |Crossed a low saddle on W. of
| | |wadi, which is here much less
| | |wooded, and in places hard to
| | |identify. A couple of miles before
| | |reaching Wadi Mahal junction, wadi
| | |passes between two hills on left
| | |and right bank, known as J. Abu
| | |Mara and Nasub El Abid
| | |respectively.
| | |
Wadi Mahal | 19½ | 108 |The Wadi Mahal joins on right
| | |bank. The Hawawir sometimes
| | |cultivate up this wadi.
| | |
| | |The Mogaddam becomes more wooded
| | |again; a low saddle is crossed on
| | |right bank and then a straight
| | |line is made for Um Tub. A great
| | |deal of “tundub,” some “selem,”
| | |and “samr.”
| | |
_Um Tub_ | 8 | 116 |Um Tub well, 120 feet deep,
| | |situated on a very slight rise in
| | |open plain on right edge of wadi.
| | |A track from here to Bayuda well.
| | |Bad going, 2 days for hamla.
| | |
| | |From here low hills are constantly
| | |in sight, each of which has a
| | |name, but none are conspicuous.
| | |Much “selem” and “samr,” very good
J. El Hueimi | 18 | 134 |going. The general direction is a
| | |little W. of N. J. El Hueimi, a
| | |low hill, serves as a direction
| | |mark from some distance till it is
| | |reached.
| | |
| | |After which J. Abno, on the right
| | |bank of the Nile opposite Korti,
| | |becomes visible and is marched on.
| | |A couple of miles further on the
| | |W. Megeirid joins the Mogaddam
| | |from the E. It looks as if it must
| | |flow out of the Wadi Bayuda, but
| | |it may come from a very short way.
| | |After crossing it, kept over low
Wadi Bayuda | 7 | 141 |gravelly ridges, rather trying for
| | |camels’ feet, till the Wadi Bayuda
| | |was reached. The Wadi Bayuda
| | |appears to come from the hills in
| | |the neighbourhood of Jakdul. It
| | |contains much “selem” and “samr,”
| | |and there was excellent grazing
| | |where it was crossed. It flows out
| | |near Ambukol.
| | |
| | |From here it is best to keep a
| | |little west of the straight line
| | |to Korti and along the right edge
| | |of the wadi, in order to avoid
Korti | 9 | 150 |more gravel ridges; after 1½ hours
| | |a track is struck which leads past
| | |Korti village to the new
| | |Government offices, just west of
| | |the old fort of 1897-98.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
120.—KORTI TO BAYUDA WELLS.
BY COLONEL HON. M. G. TALBOT, DECEMBER, 1903.
[Sidenote: General remarks.]
The road ascends generally the wadi by which the drainage of the Khor
Bayuda descends. Though, possibly, people living on the river or at
a distance call the whole wadi by the name of Bayuda, the local Arabs
give each part of it a different name.
From the source to a little below the wells appears to be called
Khor Bayuda. Up to this point it has a defined bed, in which water
flows after rain. After passing J. Barkol it becomes Wadi Barkol,
being now, and remaining, a broad wadi with no water channel. Soon
after it becomes Wadi El Zein, till it is joined by the large Wadi
Abu Gia, whose name it retains till near Korti. It is not quite clear
whether it keeps it to the end or adopts the name Abu Gidean after
its junction with that wadi.
The going is extremely good, there being no difficulty whatever.
Though a good deal used, there is no marked track till near the
wells. The numerous small isolated hills act as efficient landmarks,
so that everyone takes his own line.
Except for the short and uncertain period when green grass can be
obtained, “selem” is the best camel grazing in all this country. It
is found almost all the way in the wadi.
No supplies were obtainable of any sort on the road or at Bayuda
wells in December, 1903.
A little shade is to be got in winter, but practically none in summer.
The distances were measured by wheel and adjusted to the astronomical
positions. The hours are those actually marched by light hamla.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Korti village,| — | — |For the first 4 miles one of the
west end | | |tracks leading to Um Tub is
| | |followed, the route then bends
| | |slightly to left, keeping up the
| | |right edge of the Wadi Abu Gia,
| | |which has plenty of “selem” and
| | |other trees, till it crosses it at
| 13 | 13 |13 miles.
| | |
| | |It now keeps along the left side
| | |of the wadi, which has shrunk
| | |almost to nothing above the
| | |junction of the Abu Gia, passing
| | |J. Shankawi at 3½ miles, and
| | |returning to the wadi, where
J. Shankawi | 3½ | 16½ |“selem” bushes reappear.
| | |
| 8½ | 25 |The route keeps on straight near
| | |the southern of the two Sawileil
| | |hills, past J. El Zein, which is
| | |left 1½ miles on the right,
| | |crosses the Wadi El Zein, and a
| | |very low and easy saddle.
| | |
| 14 | 39 |It descends just to the right of a
| | |very small hill called Nasb Um
| | |Handal, passes between J. Um Serre
| | |and J. Barkol, and crosses the
| | |fairly well wooded W. Rahaba, just
| | |N. of the little hill called Nasb
| | |El Rahaba.
| | |
| 8 | 47 |After 5 miles it meets the well
| | |marked track from Merowe, and at 6
| | |miles it crosses a low ridge, and
| | |descends into the valley of the
| | |wadi, here called Wadi Bayuda.
| | |
| | |At 6½ miles it crosses the actual
| | |bed, some 40 yards wide and 6 feet
| | |deep, and at 7 miles the wells are
| | |reached.
| | |
_Bayuda wells_| 7 | 54 |The wells are situated in the bed
| | |of the khor and are filled up,
| | |whenever there is a spate. At the
| | |time of the visit, the Arabs were
| | |drawing water from a hole about a
| | |mile up; but they had begun to
| | |clean out the real wells.
| | |
| | |There are said to be two other
| | |wells, El Nasaib and Um Sideiri,
| | |about 2½ hours up on the way to
| | |Hanboti.
| | |
| | |Just at the wells it is fairly
| | |open, though surrounded by low
| | |hills. Half a mile further up the
| | |khor is closely shut in by hills
| | |covered with boulders.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
121.—BAYUDA WELLS TO TANGASI MARKET.
BY COLONEL HON. M. G. TALBOT, DECEMBER, 1903.
[Sidenote: General Remarks.]
From Bayuda wells to Wadi Abu Gia there is an extremely well marked
track, profusely beaconed in the Arab manner. Further N. the stream
of traffic divides according to the part of the Merowe district for
which the traveller is bound or from which he starts.
The going is excellent throughout; no difficulties whatever.
The route appears to be of recent origin.
Formerly the produce of the Province used to make its way to Berber
_via_ Sani, and this new trade route, sometimes called the Hawashawi
route, from a hill of that name, seems to have been established to
meet the new conditions in the Sudan.
From Bayuda the route keeps straight on, crossing the Goz Abu
Delua just before reaching Hanboti, and strikes the Nile near the
Shabluka. Between Bayuda and Merowe there are considerable stretches
without any camel grazing, and there is no shade of any value in hot
weather. The distances were measured by wheel and adjusted to the
astronomical positions.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Bayuda Wells | — | — |On leaving the wells for the first
| | |mile the Korti track is followed.
| | |On issuing from the hills, the
| | |track, which is well marked,
| | |gradually separates from the Korti
| | |route, making for higher ground,
| | |and keeps on in a practically
| | |straight line, crossing the heads
| | |of some of the small wadis that
| | |join the main one from Bayuda, and
| | |passing over a number of
| | |infinitesimal saddles that
| | |separate them.
| | |
| | |There is nothing of interest along
| | |the road.
| | |
| | |A number of small hills, each too
| | |small to show properly on the
| | |scale, but sometimes forming a
J. Hawashawi | 26 | 26 |mass of considerable area, are
| | |passed; but the only one worth
| | |noticing is J. Hawashawi, which is
| | |said to give a name to the route.
| | |
| | |There is very little camel grazing
| | |on the route generally, and after
Wadi Abu Gia | 7½ | 33½ |this none is met with till the
| | |Wadi Abu Gia is reached, where
| | |there are some “selem” and other
| | |trees.
| | |
| | |The Wadi Abu Gia is the route used
| | |by the Camel Corps in 1885, and is
| | |still known as Sikkat El Ingliz.
| | |The country now becomes still more
| | |bare; the tussocks of burnt up
| | |“tabas” grass, that have been
| | |hitherto seen occasionally, no
Birgat El | 9 | 42½ |longer appear, and with the
Seleim | | |exception of some “selem” bushes
| | |in the neighbourhood of Birgat El
Birgat Wadi | 14 | 56½ |Seleim, a low hill, no green thing
Kurei | | |is seen till the Wadi Kurei is
| | |reached in the neighbourhood of
| | |the Birgat Wadi Kurei, from the
| | |top of which there is a good view.
| | |
Tangasi | 7 | 63½ |From here into Tangasi Market the
| | |route (there is no track) is over
| | |a low gravel ridge and then across
| | |a level plain.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
[Footnote 34: It was in this year that the surveys for the railway
were made.]
[Footnote 35: _See_ page 175.]
APPENDIX.
(ROUTES PARTLY OUTSIDE THE SUDAN.)
* * * * *
122.—THE ARBAÏN ROAD.
(_Compiled by the Editor._)
The “forty days” road leads S.S.W. across the desert from Assiut,
in Upper Egypt, _viâ_ the oases of Kharga, Beris, Sheb, Selima, Lagia,
and Bir El Sultan to El Fasher capital of Darfur. It was formerly in
considerable use for bringing slave caravans, &c., from the Sudan,
and is still used in parts to a limited extent by natron caravans,
occasional smugglers, and others. It is, however, now practically
deserted.
In the summer of 1884 a reconnaissance was made by Lt.-Col. Colvile
and Lieut. Stuart-Wortley from Assiut to Lagia, in order to find out
whether the forces of the Mahdi could penetrate into Egypt by this
road. The result of the patrol was satisfactory, and demonstrated
that, owing to the paucity of water on the road, it would be quite
impossible for a force of any size to traverse it.
The total length of the Darb El Arbaïn, from Assiut to El Fasher,
is certainly not less than one thousand (1,000) miles. To cover
this stretch in forty days would appear to necessitate particularly
excellent camels, but the following is the normal time taken, according
to native report:—
-------------------------+---------+-------+-------------
Place. |Marching | Rest |Total No. of
| Days. | Days. | Days.
-------------------------+---------+-------+-------------
Assiut | — | — | —
| | |
El Kharga | 4 | 1 | 5
| | |
Beris | 1½ | 1 | 2½
| | |
El Murra | 3 | — | 3
| | |
El Kassaba | 1½ | 1 | 2½
| | |
Sheb | 1 | 1 | 2
| | |
Selima | 2 | 2 | 4
| | |
El Lagia | 4 | 1 | 5
| | |
Natron Wells, Bir Sultan | 5 | 1 | 6
| | |
J. Anka or Meidob | 7 | — | 7
| | |
El Fasher | 3 | — | 3
+---------+-------+-------------
Total | 32 | 8 | 40
-------------------------+---------+-------+-------------
A day’s journey in summer lasts from El Asr (two hours before sunset)
till one hour after sunrise; and in winter from sunrise till three
hours after sunset.
DESCRIPTION.
The only points south of Kharga which have been astronomically fixed
in modern times are Kassaba and Sheb (Talbot, 1903), and therefore the
distances between the main points given below must be considered more
or less approximate. The road is hardly defined at all throughout its
length, and variations occur at different points. A road also joins
the Arbaïn from Mut (Dakhla Oasis) at Terfawi (five days).
On no account should an intending traveller move without reliable
guides, who may usually be obtained, or heard of, at Assiut.
(_a._)—ASSIUT, _viâ_ KHARGA, TO BERIS AND MAKS.
(“Kharga Oasis: its topography and Geology,” by John Ball, 1899,
Public Works Department, Cairo, pp. 20, 44-60, &c.; Captain Lyons,
R.E., February, 1894, &c.)
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Assiut | — | — |Leave Assiut on the S., turn to
| | |W., through cemeteries, and along
| | |the the foot of the scarp.
| | |
| 5 | 5 |Road winds up limestone cliff 470
| | |feet. A few miles over broken
| | |ground brings one on to nearly
| | |level limestone desert, with no
| | |hindrance in any direction. Road
| | |runs generally S. over flat
| | |limestone; nothing of any interest
| | |till the road dips into the great
| 82 | 87 |hollow of the oasis.
| | |
_Ein Karam | 13 | 100 |First water at Ein Karam. See book
Mohammed_ | | |above-mentioned for maps and full
| | |description of the great Oasis of
_Kharga_ | 26 | 126 |Kharga, which lies in a dip over
| | |100 miles long and 20 miles wide,
| | |running N. and S. About 120 wells
| | |and 10 villages or districts;
| | |population about 8,000; 4,500
| | |feddans of cultivated ground, and
| | |about 60,000 palm trees. The oasis
| | |includes the villages of Bulak
_Bulak_ | 15 | 141 |(third largest village), Beris
| | |(second largest village), attacked
_Beris_ | 39 | 180 |by Dervishes in 1893, and Maks
| | |(Bahari and Gibli). The road now
_Maks_ | 9 | 189 |strikes again S. into the desert.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
(_b._)—MAKS, _viâ_ MURRA, KASSABA AND SHEB, TO SELIMA.
(Lieut.-Col. Colvile, July, 1884; Captain Lyons, February, 1894;
Officers Egyptian Army, Spring of 1894, &c.)