Babbage River--Meet Natives at Herschel Island--Their Trade with the
Russians, through the Western Esquimaux--Ascend Mount Conybeare--Boundary
of the British Dominions on this Coast--Delayed at Icy Reef--Barter
Island--Detention at Foggy Island--Return Reef--Limit of outward Voyage.
[Sidenote: Friday, 14th.] Although it rained heavily during the night,
and the wind blew strong off the land for some hours, there was no other
change in the state of the ice on the morning of the 14th, than that the
smaller pieces were driven a short way from the beach. The day was foggy
and rainy, but the evening fine. The bank under which we were encamped
is of the same earthy kind as that described on the 9th, but rather
higher and steeper. It contains much wood coal, similar to that found in
the Mackenzie River, and at Garry's Island. The beach and the beds of
the rivulets that flow through the ravines, consist of coarse gravel.
Specimens of its stones, of the coal, and of the plants in flower, were
added to the collection. We saw two marmots, and two rein-deer, which
were too wary to allow of our getting within shot of them. Between noon
and ten P.M. the loose ice was driving in front of the encampment from
the N.W. to S.E., and at the latter hour it stopped. We could not detect
any difference in the height of the water, and there was a calm the
whole time. A light breeze from S.E. after midnight, brought the masses
close to the beach. [Sidenote: Saturday, 15th.] On the morning of the
15th, having perceived that the ice was loosened from the land near the
outer point, to which I have given the name of Kay, after some much
esteemed relatives, we embarked, and in the course of a few hours
succeeded in reaching it, by passing between the grounded masses of ice.
On landing at Point Kay, we observed that our progress must again be
stopped by a compact body of ice that was fast to the shore of a deep
bay, and extended to our utmost view seaward; and that we could not
advance farther than the mouth of a river which discharged its waters
just round the point. The boats were, therefore, pulled to its entrance,
and we encamped. Former checks had taught us to be patient, and we,
therefore, commenced such employments as would best serve to beguile the
time, consoling ourselves with the hope that a strong breeze would soon
spring up from the land and open a passage. Astronomical observations
were obtained, the map carried on, and Lieutenant Back sketched the
beautiful scenery afforded by a view of the Rocky Mountains, while I was
employed in collecting specimens of the plants in flower. The men amused
themselves in various ways, and Augustus went to visit an Esquimaux
family that were on an island contiguous to our encampment.
We now discovered that the Rocky Mountains do not form a continuous
chain, but that they run in detached ranges at unequal distances from
the coast. The Richardson chain commencing opposite the mouth of the
Mackenzie, terminates within view of our present situation. Another
range, which I have named in honour of Professor Buckland, begins on the
western side of Phillips Bay, and extending to the boundary of our view,
is terminated by the Conybeare Mountain.
It gave me great pleasure to affix the name of my friend Mr. Babbage to
the river we had discovered, and that of Mr. Phillips, Professor of
Painting at the Royal Academy, to the bay into which its waters are
emptied. We learned from the Esquimaux that this river, which they call
Cook-Keaktok, or Rocky River, descends from a very distant part of the
interior, though they are unacquainted with its course beyond the
mountains. It appeared to us to flow between the Cupola and Barn
mountains of the Richardson chain. There are many banks of gravel near
its mouth, but above these obstructions the channel appeared deep, and
to be about two miles broad. There were no rocks _in situ_, or large
stones, near the encampment; the rolled pebbles on the beach were
sandstone of red and light brown colours, greenstone, and slaty
limestone. We gathered a fine specimen of tertiary pitch-coal.
Augustus returned in the evening with a young Esquimaux and his wife,
the only residents at the house he had visited. They had now quite
recovered the panic into which they had been thrown on our first
appearance, which was heightened by their being unable to escape from us
owing to the want of a canoe. We made them happy by purchasing the fish
they brought, and giving them a few presents; they continued to skip and
laugh as long as they staid. The man informed us that judging from the
rapid decay of the ice in the few preceding days, we might soon expect
it to break from the land, so as to allow of our reaching Herschel
Island, which was in view; but he represented the coast to the westward
of the island as being low, and so generally beset with ice, that he was
of opinion we should have great difficulty in getting along. This
couple had been left here to collect fish for the use of their
companions, who were to rejoin them for the purpose of killing whales,
as soon as the ice should break up; and they told us the black whales
would soon come after its rupture took place. It would be interesting to
ascertain where the whales retire in the winter, as they require to
inhale the air frequently. Those of the white kind make their appearance
when there are but small spaces of open water; and we afterwards saw two
black whales in a similar situation. One might almost infer from these
circumstances that they do not remove very far. Is it probable that they
go, at the close of the autumn, to a warmer climate? or can the sea be
less closely covered with ice in the high northern latitudes? The
situation of our encampment was observed to be, latitude 69 degrees 19
minutes N.; longitude 138 degrees 10-1/2 minutes W.; variation 46
degrees 16 minutes E.; and a rise and fall of nine inches in the water.
The wind blew from the west during the night, and drove much ice near
the boats; but as the masses took ground a little way from the shore, we
were spared the trouble of removing the boats higher up the beach.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 16th.] We were favoured in the forenoon of the 16th
by a strong breeze from the land, which, in the course of a few hours,
drove away many of these pieces towards Point Kay, and opened a passage
for the boats. We immediately embarked to sail over to the western side
of Phillips Bay, concluding, from the motion of the ice, that it must
now be detached from that shore. On reaching it, we had the pleasure of
finding an open channel close to the beach, although the entrance was
barred by a stream of ice lying aground on a reef. The boats being
forced by poles over this obstruction, we stood under sail along the
coast to about five miles beyond Point Stokes; but there we were again
compelled by the closeness of the ice to stop, and from the top of a
sand-hill we could not discover any water in the direction of our
course. The tents were therefore pitched, and the boats unloaded, and
hauled on the beach. Heavy rain came on in the evening, by which we
indulged the hope that the ice might be loosened. We were encamped on a
low bank of gravel which runs along the base of a chain of sand-hills
about one hundred and fifty feet high, and forms the coast line. The
bank was covered with drift timber, and is the site of a deserted
Esquimaux village. The snow still remaining in the ravines was tinged
with light red spots. [Sidenote: Monday, 17th.] The night was calm, and
the ice remained in the same fixed state until six in the morning of the
17th, when, perceiving the pieces in the offing to be in motion we
launched the boats, and by breaking our way at first with hatchets, and
then forcing with the poles through other streams of ice, we contrived
to reach some lanes of water, along which we navigated for four hours. A
strong breeze springing up from seaward, caused the ice to close so fast
upon the boat, that we were obliged to put again to the shore, and land
on a low bank, similar to that on which we had rested the night before.
It was intersected, however, by many pools and channels of water, which
cut off our communication with the land. As we could not obtain, from
our present station, any satisfactory view of the state of the ice to
the westward, I despatched Duncan and Augustus to take a survey of it
from Point Catton, while Lieutenant Back and I made some astronomical
observations. They returned after an absence of two hours, and reported
that there was water near Herschel Island, and a channel in the offing
that appeared to lead to it. We, therefore, embarked; and by pushing the
boats between the masses that lay aground, for some distance, we
succeeded in reaching open water at the entrance of the strait which
lies between the island and the main, and through which the loose pieces
of ice were driving fast to the westward. Having now the benefit of a
strong favourable breeze, we were enabled to keep clear of them, and
made good progress. Arriving opposite the S.E. end of Herschel Island,
we perceived a large herd of rein-deer just taking the water, and on
approaching the shore to get within shot, discovered three Esquimaux in
pursuit. These men stood gazing at the boats for some minutes, and after
a short consultation, we observed them to change the heads of their
arrows, and prepare their bows. They then walked along the south shore,
parallel to our course, for the purpose, as we soon found, of rejoining
their wives. We reached the place at which the ladies were before them,
and though invited to land, we were not able, on account of the surf.
Augustus was desired to assure them of our friendship, and of our
intention to stop at the first sheltered spot, to which they and their
husbands might come to receive a present. More than this our little
friend could not be prevailed upon to communicate, because they were
"old wives;" and it was evident that he considered any further
conversation with women to be beneath his dignity. On passing round the
point we discovered that the ice was closely packed to leeward, and such
a heavy swell setting upon it, that it was unsafe to proceed. We,
therefore, encamped, and Augustus set off immediately to introduce
himself to the Esquimaux. The tents were scarcely pitched, and the
sentinels placed, before he returned, accompanied by twelve men and
women, each bringing a piece of dried meat, or fish, to present to us.
We learned from them that the boats, when at a distance, had been taken
for pieces of ice; but when we drew near enough for them to distinguish
the crews, and they perceived them clothed differently from any men they
had seen, they became alarmed, and made ready their arrows, as we had
observed. On receiving some presents, they raised a loud halloo, which
brought five or six others from an adjoining island, and in the evening
there was a further addition to the party of some young men, who had
been hunting, and who afterwards sent their wives to bring us a part of
the spoils of their chase. They remained near the tents the greater part
of the night, and testified their delight by dancing and singing. An old
woman, whose hair was silvered by age, made a prominent figure in these
exhibitions.
The information we obtained from them confirmed that which we had
received from the last party, namely, that they procure the iron,
knives, and beads, through two channels, but principally from a party of
Esquimaux who reside a great distance to the westward, and to meet whom
they send their young men every spring with furs, seal-skins, and oil,
to exchange for those articles; and also from the Indians, who come
every year from the interior to trade with them by a river that was
directly opposite our encampment; which I have, therefore, named the
Mountain Indian River. These Indians leave their families and canoes at
two days' march from the mouth of the river, and the men come alone,
bringing no more goods than they intend to barter. They were represented
to be tall stout men, clothed in deer-skins, and speaking a language
very dissimilar to their own. They also said that the Esquimaux to the
westward, speak a dialect so different from theirs, that at the first
opening of the communication, which was so recent as to be within the
memory of two of our present companions, they had great difficulty in
understanding them. Several quarrels took place at their first meetings,
in consequence of the western party attempting to steal; but latterly
there has been a good understanding between them, and the exchanges have
been fairly made.
Our visitors did not know from what people either the Indians or the
Esquimaux obtained the goods, but they supposed from some "Kabloonacht,"
(white people,) who reside far to the west. As the articles we saw were
not of British manufacture, and were very unlike those sold by the
Hudson's Bay Company to the Indians, it cannot be doubted that they are
furnished by the Russian Fur Traders, who receive in return for them all
the furs collected on this northern coast. Part of the Russian iron-work
is conveyed to the Esquimaux dwelling on the coast east of the
Mackenzie. The western Esquimaux use tobacco, and some of our visitors
had smoked it, but thought the flavour very disagreeable. Until I was
aware of their being acquainted with the use of it, I prohibited my men
from smoking in their presence, and afterwards from offering their pipes
to the Esquimaux at any time. At the conclusion of this conference, our
visitors assured us, that having now become acquainted with white
people, and being conscious that the trade with them would be
beneficial, they would gladly encourage a further intercourse, and do
all in their power to prevent future visitors from having such a
reception as we had on our arrival in these seas. We learned that this
island, which has been distinguished by the name of Herschel, is much
frequented by the natives at this season of the year, as it abounds with
deer, and its surrounding waters afford plenty of fish. It is composed
of black earth, rises, in its highest point, to about one hundred feet,
and at the time of our visit was covered with verdure. The strait
between it and the main shore, is the only place that we had seen, since
quitting the Mackenzie, in which a ship could find shelter; but even
this channel is much interrupted by shoals. Latitude 69 degrees 33-1/2
minutes N.; longitude 139 degrees 3 minutes W.; were observed at the
encampment.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 18th.] On the morning of the 18th the fog was so
thick that we could not see beyond the beach. It dispersed about noon,
and we discovered that there was a channel of open water near the main
shore, though in the centre of the strait the ice was heavy, and driving
rapidly to the north-west. We embarked at once, in the expectation of
being able to penetrate between the drift ice and the land, but the
attempt was frustrated by the shallowness of the water; and the fog
again spreading as thick as before, we landed on a sand-bank. We were
soon visited by another party of the Esquimaux, who brought deer's meat
for sale; and although the whole quantity did not amount to a deer, we
had to purchase it in small pieces. This practice of dividing the meat
among the party, we found to prevail throughout the voyage; and they
avowed as their reason for it, the desire that every one might obtain a
share of the good things we distributed. One of the men drew on the sand
a sketch of the coast to the westward, as far as he was acquainted with
it; from which it appeared that there was a line of reefs in front of
the coast the whole way; the water being deep on the outside of them,
but on the inside too shallow even for their oomiaks to float. We
subsequently found that his knowledge of the coast did not extend beyond
a few days' march.
The atmosphere becoming more clear about two P.M., we again embarked,
and endeavoured to get to seaward. The boats, however, soon grounded;
and finding all our attempts to push through any of the channels between
the reefs ineffectual, we pulled back close to Herschel Island.
Following, then, the course of the drift ice, we passed near to its
south-west point, which was found to be the only deep passage through
the strait. We afterwards entered into a fine sheet of open water, the
main body of the ice being about half a mile to seaward, and only a few
bergs lying aground in the direction of our course. The outer parts of
the island appeared closely beset with it. At the end of five miles we
discerned another large party of Esquimaux, encamped on a reef; they
waved their jackets as signals for us to land, which we declined doing,
as we perceived the water to be shallow between us and them. They ran
along the beach as far as the end of the reef, tempting us by holding up
meat. Only two of the party were provided with canoes, and they followed
us to a bluff point of the main shore, on which we landed. These proved
to be persons whom we had seen at Herschel Island, and who had visited
the Esquimaux in this quarter on purpose to make them acquainted with
our arrival. We were happy to learn from them that we should not see any
more of their countrymen for some time, because, while surrounded by
them, the necessity of closely watching their motions, prevented us from
paying due attention to other objects. Resuming our voyage, we pulled
along the outer border of a gravel reef, about two hundred yards broad,
that runs parallel to, and about half a mile from, the coast, having a
line of drift ice on the outside of us. The wind being contrary, and the
evening cold, temperature 40 degrees, we encamped on the reef at eight
P.M., where we found plenty of drift timber; the water was brackish. The
distance travelled this day was eight miles and a half. The main shore
opposite the encampment was low to a great distance from the coast; it
then appeared to ascend gradually to the base of the Buckland chain of
mountains.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 19th.] The following morning being calm, and very
fine, the boats were launched at three A.M., and we set off in high
spirits; but after pulling three miles, we perceived the channel of open
water becoming narrow, and the pieces of ice heavier than any we had
before seen, some of them being aground in three fathoms water. At six
A.M., after having gone five miles and a half, we were stopped by the
ice which adhered to the reef, and was unbroken to seaward. Imagining we
saw water at some distance beyond this barrier, we were induced to drag
the boats across the reef, and launch them into the channel on the
inside, in the hope of reaching it. This proved to be a bay, at the head
of which we arrived in a short time. It was then discovered that a fog
hanging over the ice had been mistaken for water. The boats were,
therefore, reconveyed across the reef, the tents pitched, and we had to
draw largely on our nearly exhausted stock of patience, as we
contemplated the dreary view of this compact icy field. A herd of
rein-deer appeared very opportunely to afford some employment, and most
of the men were despatched on the chase, but only one was successful.
The following observations were obtained:--Latitude 69 degrees 36
minutes N.; longitude 139 degrees 42 minutes W.; variation 46 degrees 13
minutes E. Being now abreast of Mount Conybeare, Lieutenant Back and I
were on the point of setting out to visit its summit, when we were
stopped by a very dense fog that accompanied a fresh breeze from the
N.W., followed by heavy rain. [Sidenote: Thursday, 20th.] The weather
continued bad, until ten the following morning; the ice near the beach
was broken into smaller pieces, but as yet too closely packed for our
proceeding. The water being brackish in front of the reef, we despatched
two men to bring some from the pools at a distance inland, which was
found to have the same taste; from this circumstance, as well as from
the piles of drift wood, thrown up far from the coast, one may infer
that the sea occasionally washes over this low shore. The ice broken off
from large masses, and permitted to drain before it was melted, did not
furnish us with better water. A couple of pin-tailed ducks were shot,
the only pair seen; the black kind were more numerous, but were not
fired at, as they are fishing ducks, and, therefore, not good to eat. We
also saw a few geese and swans.
[Sidenote: Friday, 21st.] The atmosphere was calm, and perfectly clear,
on the morning of the 21st; and as there was not any change in the
position of the ice, I visited Mount Conybeare, accompanied by Duncan
and Stewart. Though its distance was not more than twelve miles from the
coast, the journey proved to be very fatiguing, owing to the swampiness
of the ground between the mountain and the sea. We had also the
discomfort of being tormented the whole way by myriads of musquitoes.
The plain was intersected by a winding river, about forty yards broad,
which we forded, and on its western side found a thicket of willows,
none of which were above seven inches in circumference, and only five or
six feet high. At the foot of the mountain were three parallel
platforms, or terraces, whose heights we estimated at fifty, eighty, and
one hundred and thirty feet; composed of transition slate, the stone of
the lowest being of the closest texture. We found the task of climbing
above the upper terraces difficult, in consequence of the looseness of
the stones, which did not afford a firm footing, but after an hour's
labour, we succeeded in reaching the top. The mountain is also composed
of slate, but so much weathered near the summit, as to appear a mere
collection of stones. Its height above the sea we estimated at eight
hundred feet. Two or three hardy plants were in flower, at the highest
elevation, which we gathered, though they were of the same kind that had
been collected in the lower lands; and during the whole march we did not
meet with any plant different from the specimens we had already
obtained. On arriving at the top of the mountain, we were refreshed by a
strong south wind, which we fondly hoped might reach to the coast, and
be of service, by driving the ice from the land. This hope, however,
lasted only a few minutes; for, on casting our eyes to seaward, there
appeared no open water into which it could be moved, except near
Herschel Island. The view into the interior possessed the charm of
novelty, and attracted particular regard. We commanded a prospect over
three ranges of mountains, lying parallel to the Buckland chain, but of
less altitude. The view was bounded by a fourth range of high-peaked
mountains, for the most part covered with snow. This distant range was
afterwards distinguished by the name of the British Chain; and the
mountains at its extremities were named in honour of the then Chancellor
of the Exchequer, and President of the Board of Trade--the Right
Honourable Mr. Robinson, now Lord Goderich, and Mr. Huskisson. When seen
from the coast, the mountains of the Buckland chain appeared to form a
continuous line, extending from N.W. by N., to S.E. by S.; but from our
present situation we discovered that they were separated from each other
by a deep valley, and a rivulet, and that their longest direction was
N.N.E. and S.S.W. The same order prevailed in the three ranges behind
the Buckland chain; and the highest of their mountains, like Mount
Conybeare, were round and naked at the top; the vallies between them
were grassy. We erected a pile of stones of sufficient height to be seen
from the sea, and deposited underneath it a note, containing the
latitude, longitude, and some particulars relative to the Expedition.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 22nd.] The 22nd was a calm sultry day, the
temperature varying between 58 degrees and 63 degrees, and we were
tormented by musquitoes. The ice remained very close to the beach.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 23rd.] Impatient of our long detention, we gladly
availed ourselves, at three in the morning of the 23rd, of a small
opening in the ice, to launch the boats, and push them forward as far as
we could get them. We thus succeeded in reaching a lane of water,
through which we made tolerable progress, though after two hours and a
half of exertion, we were gradually hemmed in, and forced again to
encamp at the mouth of a small stream westward of Sir Pulteney Malcolm
River. We had, however, the satisfaction of finding, by the
observations, that we had gained ten miles. Latitude 69 degrees 36
minutes N.; longitude 140 degrees 12 minutes W.; variation 45 degrees 6
minutes E. The temperature of the water at the surface a quarter of a
mile from the shore was 40 degrees, that of the air being 49 degrees.
The water was two fathoms deep, ten yards from the beach.
The coast here was about fifteen feet high; and from the top of the bank
a level plain extended to the base of the mountains, which, though very
swampy, was covered with verdure. At this place we first found boulder
stones, which were deeply seated in the gravel of the beach. They
consisted of greenstone, sandstone, and limestone; the first mentioned
being the largest, and the last the most numerous. Having seen several
fish leaping in the river, a net was set across its mouth, though
without success, owing to the meshes being too large. Two men were
despatched to examine the state of the ice; and on their return from a
walk of several miles, they reported that, with the exception of a small
spot close to the beach, it was quite compact. They had observed, about
two miles from the encampment, stumps of drift wood fixed in the ground
at certain distances, extending from the coast across the plain towards
the Rocky Mountains, in the direction of two piles of stones, which were
erected on the top of the latter. We were at a loss to conjecture what
motive the Esquimaux could have had for taking so much trouble, unless
these posts were intended to serve as decoys for the rein-deer. The
party assembled at divine service in the evening, as had been our
practice every Sunday.
[Sidenote: Monday, 24th.] On the morning of the 24th we were able to
make a further advance of two miles and three quarters, by forcing the
boats between the masses of ice, as far as the debouche of another
rivulet, in latitude 69 degrees 36-1/2 minutes N., and longitude 140
degrees 19-1/2 minutes W. Under any other circumstance than that of
being beset by ice, the beautifully calm and clear weather we then had
would have been delightful; but as our hope of being released rested
solely on a strong wind, we never ceased to long for its occurrence. A
breeze would have been, at any rate, beneficial in driving away the
musquitoes, which were so numerous as to prevent any enjoyment of the
open air, and to keep us confined to a tent filled with smoke, the only
remedy against their annoyance.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 25th.] We were still detained the two following
days, and the only things we saw were a grey wolf, some seals, and some
ducks. More tedious hours than those passed by us in the present
situation, cannot well be imagined. After the astronomical observations
had been obtained and worked, the survey brought up, a sketch made of
the encampment, and specimens of the plants and stones in the vicinity
collected, there was, literally, nothing to do. The anxiety which was
inseparable from such an enterprize as ours, at such an advanced period
of the season, left but little disposition to read, even if there had
been a greater choice of books in our travelling library, and still less
composure to invent amusement. Even had the musquitoes been less
tormenting, the swampiness of the ground, in which we sank ankle deep at
every step, deprived us of the pleasure of walking. A visit to the Rocky
Mountains was often talked of, but they were now at a distance of two
days' journey, and we dared not to be absent from the boats so long,
lest the ice, in its fickle movements, should open for a short time.
Notwithstanding the closeness of the ice, we perceived a regular rise
and fall of the water, though it amounted only to seven inches, except
on the night of the 24th, when the rise was two feet; but the direction
of the flood was not yet ascertained. We found a greater proportion of
birch-wood, mixed with the drift timber to the westward of the Babbage
than we had done before; between the Mackenzie and that river it had
been so scarce, that we had to draw upon our store of bark to light the
fires. Some lunar observations were obtained in the afternoon of the
25th, and their results assured us that the chronometers were going
steadily. At midnight we were visited by a strong S.W. breeze,
accompanied by rain, thunder, and lightning. This weather was succeeded
by calm, and a fog that continued throughout the next day, and confined
our view to a few yards. Temperature from 41 degrees to 43 degrees.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 26th.] On the atmosphere becoming clear about nine
in the evening of the 26th, we discovered a lane of water, and
immediately embarking, we pulled, for an hour, without experiencing much
interruption from the ice. A fresh breeze then sprung up from the N.W.,
which brought with it a very dense fog, and likewise caused the ice to
close so fast upon us, that we were compelled to hasten to the shore. We
had just landed, when the channel was completely closed. We encamped on
the western side of a river about two hundred yards broad, which, at the
request of Lieutenant Back, was named after Mr. Backhouse, one of the
under Secretaries of State for Foreign Affairs. It appeared that the
water that flowed from this channel had caused the opening by which we
had travelled from our last resting-place; for beyond it, the ice was
closely packed.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 27th.] Some heavy rain fell in the night, and the
morning of the 27th was foggy; but the sun, about noon, having dispersed
the fog, we discovered an open channel about half a mile from the shore.
No time was lost in pushing the boats into it. By following its course
to the end, and breaking our way through some streams of ice, we were
brought, at the end of eight miles, to the mouth of a wide river that
flows from the British range of mountains. This being the most westerly
river in the British dominions on this coast, and near the line of
demarcation between Great Britain and Russia, I named it the Clarence,
in honour of His Royal Highness the Lord High Admiral. Under a pile of
drift timber which we erected on the most elevated point of the coast
near its mouth, was deposited a tin box, containing a royal silver
medal, with an account of the proceedings of the Expedition; and the
union flag was hoisted under three hearty cheers, the only salute that
we could afford. This ceremony did not detain us longer than half an
hour; when we launched into a larger space of open water than we had
seen since the 9th of the month. This circumstance, together with the
appearance of several seals, and the water becoming more salt, created a
hope that we should soon enter upon a brisker navigation. But this too
sanguine expectation was dispelled in little more than an hour, by a
close and heavy field of ice, which obliged us to pull to the shore. The
tent was pitched under a steep bank of mud, in latitude 69 degrees 38
minutes N.; longitude 140 degrees 46 minutes W. The soundings this day
varied from two to ten fathoms; and the temperature of the air from 37
degrees to 45 degrees. [Sidenote: Friday, 28th.] The ice having opened
near the beach by noon of the 28th, so as to admit the boats, we
embarked, to try if we could not advance by thrusting the masses aside
with poles. After spending several hours in this labour, and gaining
only two miles, further exertion became ineffectual, owing to the ice
being closely packed, and many of the pieces from fifteen to twenty feet
high, lying aground. We had however, gained by the removal the comforts
of dry ground, and good water, which had been wanting at the last
encampment. Among the drift timber on the beach was a pine tree, seven
feet and a quarter in girth, by thirty-six long. We had previously seen
several, little inferior in size. The temperature this day varied from
39 degrees to 48 degrees. We had observed, for the preceding fortnight,
that the musquitoes assailed us as soon as the temperature rose to 45
degrees, and that they retired quickly on its descending below that
height.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 29th.] The morning of the 29th opened with heavy
rain and fog; the precursors of a strong gale from E.N.E., which brought
back the ice we had already passed, and closely packed it along the
beach, but we could not perceive that the wind had the slightest effect
on the main body at a distance from the shore. This was a very cold,
comfortless day, the temperature between 38 degrees and 42 degrees.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 30th.] On the following morning a brilliant sun
contributed with the gale to the dispersion of the mist which had, for
some days past, overhung the Rocky Mountains, and we had the
gratification of seeing, for the first time, the whole length of the
British Chain of Mountains, which are more peaked and irregular in their
outline, and more picturesque than those of the Buckland Range. The
following observations were obtained here:--Latitude 69 degrees 38
minutes N.; longitude 140 degrees 51 minutes W.; variation 45 degrees 43
minutes E.; dip 83 degrees 27 minutes. In exploring the bed of a rivulet
we found several pieces of quartz, containing pyrites of a very bright
colour, which so much attracted the attention of the crews, that they
spent several hours in examining every stone, expecting to have their
labour rewarded by the discovery of some precious metal.
The gale having abated in the evening, we quickly loaded the boats, and
pulled them into a lane of water that we had observed about half a mile
from the shore. This, however, extended only a short way to the west,
and at the end of a mile and a half inclined towards the beach, the ice
beyond it being closely packed. Before the boats could be brought to the
land, they received several heavy blows in passing through narrow
channels, and over tongues of grounded ice. I walked to the extreme
point that we had in view from the tent, and was rejoiced by the sight
of a large space of water in the direction of our course; but up to the
point the ice was still compact, and heavy. On my way I passed another
Esquimaux village, where there were marks of recent visitors.
We witnessed the setting of the sun at eleven P.M.; an unwelcome sight,
which the gloomy weather had, till then, spared us; for it forced upon
our minds the conviction that the favourable season for our operations
was fast passing away, though we had, as yet, made so little progress.
This was not the only uncomfortable circumstance that attended us this
evening. Our friend Augustus was seized with a shivering fit, in
consequence of having imprudently rushed, when in full perspiration,
into a lake of cold water, to drag out a rein-deer which he had killed.
He was unable to walk on coming out of the water, and the consequence
would have been more serious had it not been for the kindness of his
companion, Wilson, who deprived himself of his flannels and waistcoat to
clothe him. On their arrival at the tent, Augustus was put between
blankets, and provided with warm chocolate, and the only inconvenience
that he felt next morning was pain in his limbs.
[Sidenote: Monday, 31st.] We had several showers of rain during the
night, with a steady S.W. breeze, and in the morning of the 31st were
delighted by perceiving the ice loosening and driving off the land. We
were afloat in a few minutes, and enjoyed the novelty of pulling through
an uninterrupted channel as far as Point Demarcation, which has been so
named from its being situated in longitude 141 degrees W., the boundary
between the British and Russian dominions on the northern coast of
America. This point seems to be much resorted to by the Esquimaux, as we
found here many winter houses, and four large stages. On the latter were
deposited several bundles of seal and deer skins, and several pair of
snow-shoes. The snow-shoes were netted with cords of deer-skin, and were
shaped like those used by the Indians near the Mackenzie. A favourable
breeze now sprang up; and having ascertained, by mounting one of the
Esquimaux stages, that there was still a channel of open water between a
low island and the main shore, we set sail to follow its course. At the
end of three miles we found the water gradually to decrease from three
fathoms to as many feet, and shortly afterwards the boats repeatedly
took the ground. In this situation we were enveloped by a thick fog,
which limited our view to a few yards. We, therefore, dragged the boats
to the land, until we could see our way; this did not happen before ten
in the evening, when it was discovered from the summit of an eminence,
about two miles distant, that though the channel was of some extent, it
was very shallow, and seemed to be barred by ice to the westward. We
also ascertained that it was bounded to the seaward by a long reef. The
night proved very stormy, and we were but scantily supplied with drift
wood.
[Sidenote: August 1st.] Though the morning of the 1st of August
commenced with a heavy gale from E.N.E., and very foggy weather, we
proceeded to the reef, after much fatigue in dragging the boats over
the flats, under the supposition that our best chance of getting forward
would be by passing on the outside of it. But there finding heavy ice
lying aground, and so closely packed as to preclude the possibility of
putting the boats into the water, it was determined to examine the
channel by walking along the shore of the reef. An outlet to the sea was
discovered, but the channel was so flat that gulls were, in most parts,
wading across; and there was, therefore, no other course than to await
the separation of the ice from the reef. On the dispersion of the fog in
the afternoon, we perceived that some of the masses of ice were from
twenty to thirty feet high; and we derived little comfort from
beholding, from the top of one of them, an unbroken surface of ice to
seaward.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 2nd.] The gale blew without the least abatement
throughout the night, and until noon of the 2nd, when it terminated in a
violent gust, which overthrew the tents. The field of ice was broken in
the offing, and the pieces put in motion; and in the evening there
appeared a large space of open water, but we could not take advantage of
these favourable circumstances, in consequence of the ice still closely
besetting the reef. We remarked large heaps of gravel, fifteen feet
above the surface of the reef, on the largest iceberg, which must have
been caused by the pressure of the ice; and from the top of this berg we
had the satisfaction of discovering that a large herd of rein-deer were
marching in line towards the opposite side of the channel. Our party was
instantly on the alert, and the best hunters were sent in the Reliance
in chase of them. The boat grounded about midway across, and the eager
sportsmen jumped overboard and hastened to the shore; but such was their
want of skill, that only three fawns were killed, out of a herd of three
or four hundred. The supply, however, was sufficient for our present
use, and the circumstances of the chase afforded amusing conversation
for the evening. The astronomical observations place our encampment in
latitude 69 degrees 43 minutes N.; longitude 141 degrees 30 minutes W.
The temperature this day varied from 40 degrees to 42 degrees.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 3rd.] On the morning of the 3rd a strong breeze set
in from the east, which we were rejoiced to find caused a higher flood
in the channel than we had yet seen, and the hope of effecting a passage
by its course was revived; as the ice was still fast to the reef, and
likely to continue so, it was considered better to occupy ourselves in
dragging the boats through the mud, than to continue longer in this
irksome spot, where the wood was already scarce, and the water
indifferent. The boats, therefore, proceeded with four men in each,
while the rest of the crew walked along the shore, and rendered
assistance wherever it was necessary, to drag them over the shallow
parts. After four hours' labour, we reached the eastern part of the bay,
which I have had the pleasure of naming after my friend Captain
Beaufort, R.N., and which was then covered with ice. We had also the
happiness of finding a channel that led to seaward, which enabled us to
get on the outside of the reef; but as we pushed as close as we could to
the border of the packed ice, our situation, for the next four hours,
was attended with no little anxiety. The appearance of the clouds
bespoke the return of fog, and we were sailing with a strong breeze
through narrow channels, between heavy pieces of drift ice, on the
outside of a chain of reefs that stretched across Beaufort Bay, which we
knew could not be approached within a mile, owing to the shallowness of
the water.
Beyond Point Humphrys, the water being deep close to the coast, we
travelled in more security, though the ice was less open than before. We
halted to sup on a gravel reef that extends from the main shore to Point
Griffin, having run twenty-eight miles, the greatest distance we had
made on one day since our departure from the Mackenzie.
A black whale, and several seals, having been seen just before we
landed, the water now decidedly salt, and the ice driving with great
rapidity to the westward, were circumstances that we hailed with
heartfelt joy; as affording the prospect of getting speedily forward,
and in the evening we lost sight of Mount Conybeare, which had been
visible since the 9th of July. There were several huts on the reef, and
one large tent, capable of holding forty persons, which appeared to have
been lately occupied, besides eighteen sledges, that we supposed to have
been left by the men who had gone from Herschel Island, to exchange
their furs with the western Esquimaux. Among the baggage we found a
spoon, made out of the musk ox horn, like those used by the Canadian
voyagers. At six this evening we passed the termination of the British
Chain of Mountains, and had now arrived opposite the commencement of
another range, which I named after the late Count Romanzoff, Chancellor
of the Russian Empire, as a tribute of respect to the memory of that
distinguished patron and promoter of discovery and science.
Having taken the precaution of supplying ourselves with fresh water, we
quitted the reef, to proceed on our voyage under sail, but shortly
afterwards arrived at very heavy ice, apparently packed. We found,
however, a narrow passage, and by forcing the boats through it, reached
a more open channel, where the oars could be used. This extended along a
reef, so that we could pursue our course with safety, being ready to
land in the event of the ice drifting upon us. [Sidenote: Friday, 4th.]
The sun set this evening at half past ten P.M.; and the temperature of
the air during its disappearance was 38 degrees. Between the reefs and
the low main land the water was entirely free from ice. After passing
Point Sir Henry Martin, we were tempted, by the appearance of a bay, to
steer within the reefs, as we could then use the sails, and make a more
direct course than by winding among the ice. The water proved so shallow
that the boats took the ground, at the distance of three miles from the
shore, which caused us to alter our plan, and follow the line of drift
ice near the border of the pack. The breeze died away; and in proceeding
under oars beyond Point Manning, we descried a collection of tents
planted on a low island, with many oomiaks, kaiyacks, and dogs around
them. The Esquimaux being fast asleep, Augustus was desired to hail
them, and after two or three loud calls, a female appeared in a state of
nudity; after a few seconds she called out to her husband, who awoke at
the first sound of her voice, and shouting out that strangers were close
at hand, the whole space between the tents and the water was, in a few
minutes, covered with armed, though naked, people. Their consternation
on being thus suddenly roused by strangers, of whose existence they had
never heard, can be better imagined than described. We drew near the
shore, to let Augustus inform them who we were, and of the purpose of
our visit, which produced a burst of acclamation, and an immediate
invitation to land. This we declined doing, having counted fifty-four
grown persons, and knowing that we had not the means of furnishing such
a number with the articles they might crave. Besides, it was evident,
from their hurried manner, that they were in a state of high excitement,
and might then, perhaps, have been disposed to seize upon everything
within their grasp. Four of the kaiyacks being launched, after we had
receded to a proper distance from the island, we allowed them to come
alongside; and presents were given to the men. We then learned that
these were the people who had conveyed the furs, &c., from Herschel
Island, and that the exchange with the Esquimaux had been made at the
place where they were encamped, only a few days before. They intended to
commence their return this day to Herschel Island, where the iron and
beads would be distributed among their relations, according to the
furs, &c. they had supplied. The Esquimaux saluted us at parting with
many vociferations of _teyma_, and we continued our journey for five
miles; at the end of which, the wind setting in strongly against us, we
landed at the western part of Barter Island, to refresh the crew. We
then found that a rapid tide was running to the eastward, and at eleven
the water had risen one foot, from the time of our landing. The tents
were scarcely pitched before we saw two kaiyacks coming towards us from
the westward, and the man in the headmost accepted, without hesitation,
our invitation to land. His companion was asleep, and his canoe was
driving with the wind and tide; but when awaked by the voice of
Augustus, he also came. These were young men returning from hunting to
the tents that we had passed; and being much fatigued, they made but a
short stay. The only information collected from them was, that the coast
before us was similar to that along which we had been travelling, and
that the ice was broken from the shore. The latitude 70 degrees 5
minutes N.; longitude 143 degrees 55 minutes W.; variation 45 degrees 36
minutes E.; were observed.
As soon as the latitude had been obtained, we embarked, favoured by wind
and tide, to cross the bay, which has been named in honour of the
Marquess Camden. The water was of a seagreen colour, perfectly salt, and
from three to five fathoms deep; the temperature 35 degrees at the
surface, that of the air, 43 degrees. The day was very clear, and
exposed to our view the outline of the Romanzoff chain of Mountains,
whose lofty peaks were covered with snow. At the end of ten miles we
observed four tents planted on a reef, and several women standing about
them, who made many signs for us to land, but the surf was rolling too
heavily on the beach. As we proceeded, their husbands were perceived on
the main shore, in pursuit of a large herd of rein-deer, which they
seemed to be surrounding so as to drive the deer into the water, where
they would probably spear them to more advantage.
Continuing along the shore beyond the reef at the distance of two miles
from the land, the boats touched the ground several times, which made us
conclude we were steering into a bay, though its outline could not be
seen. The wind changed at the time to the north, blew strong, and raised
a heavy swell, which induced us to haul out to seaward, and we soon
afterwards discovered an island, which we just reached under sail. From
its summit we perceived a chain of low reefs, extending from its
northern point for several miles to the westward, on which the wind was
then blowing, and bringing down the drift ice. We were, therefore,
compelled to halt, and await more moderate weather. This island, like
the projecting points of the main shore, is a mere deposit of earthly
mud, covered with verdure, about twenty or twenty-five feet high. There
was another island adjoining, which seemed to be a collection of boulder
stones; from whence it was named.
The ice appeared closely packed to the seaward; nearer to the island
were icebergs aground, and within these, streams of loose pieces driving
towards the reefs. In the hurry of embarkation from Barter Island, one
of the crew of the Reliance left his gun and ammunition, which we
regretted the more, from being apprehensive that an accident might
happen to the natives. The circumstance was not known before the boats
were a great distance from the island, or we should have put back to
have recovered it.
A very thick fog came on in the evening. This weather, however, did not
prevent our receiving a visit from two of the natives about midnight,
who told Augustus that, having scented the smoke of a fire from the
opposite side of the bay, they had come to ascertain who had made it.
They were armed with bows and arrows, and advanced towards the tent
without any alarm. We found that they had been hunting, with several
other men, at the foot of the Romanzoff Mountains, and that they were
now going to rejoin their friends at Barter Island, with the fruits of a
successful chase. Their knowledge of the coast terminated at this place,
which is as far to the westward as any of the party from Herschel Island
travel.
The western Esquimaux had parted from them seven nights before, but they
supposed that they had not made much progress, as their oomiaks were
heavily laden. Those people had informed them that the coast to the
westward was low, and fronted by reefs, like that we had already passed;
the water also was very shallow; they therefore recommended that we
should keep on the outside of every reef. Our visitors had no sooner
received their presents than they raised a loud cry, which was intended
to bring their friends. On the dispersion of the fog at the time, we
discovered an oomiak, filled with people paddling, and some other men
wading towards us. [Sidenote: Saturday, 5th.] It being calm, and the
swell having abated, we did not wait for their arrival, but embarked at
one in the morning of the 5th, and pursued our course to the westward,
keeping on the outside of the reefs. The water, however, was very
shallow, even at the distance of two miles, and we were much teased by
the boats repeatedly touching the ground. This was particularly the
case when we arrived opposite to the large river, which was named in
honour of the late Mr. Canning, where we found the water perfectly
fresh, three miles from the land. The ice being more loose abreast of
this river, we pulled out to seaward into deep water. The land was then
hidden from our view by the haze, though not more than four miles
distant, and our course was directed by the masses of ice lying aground;
but at the end of three miles, our further progress was stopped at six
A.M., by the ice being closely packed on the outer border of a reef, in
latitude 70 degrees 7 minutes N.; longitude 145 degrees 27 minutes W.
We perceived, on landing, by the driving of the loose pieces of ice,
that the tide was running strongly to the eastward, through the channel
we had passed along, and that it continued to do so, until ten this
morning, during which time the water was falling. It changed at ten, and
the water rose one foot before one P.M. This observation would indicate
the flood to come from the eastward, though contrary to what was
remarked at Barter Island the day before; but in a sea so closely beset
with ice, no accurate observations as to the direction of the tide could
be obtained.
The Rocky Mountains either terminated abreast of our present situation,
or receded so far to the southward as to be imperceptible from the coast
a few miles beyond this reef. The ice being somewhat loosened by the
flood tide, we embarked at one P.M., to force the boats through the
narrow channels, and in the course of two hours reached Point Brownlow,
where we landed, for the purpose of ascertaining whether the ice could
be avoided by passing into the bay that then opened to our view,
trending to the south. We perceived that this bay was in every part
flat, and strewed with stones; and that the only prospect of getting
forward was by entering the ice again, and pushing to an island about
two miles further to the west, which we reached after receiving several
heavy blows in passing through the loose ice at the entrance of the
strait, between the central reef and the island, where the pieces were
much tossed by the tide.
The view from the south-east part of the island led us, at first, to
suppose that we might proceed by keeping close to its south shore; but
in making the attempt, the boats repeatedly took the ground, and we were
obliged to seek a passage by the north side of the island. At the end of
a mile in that direction we were stopped by the ice being unbroken from
the shore, and closely packed to seaward. Since the day after our
departure from the Mackenzie, when we first came to the ice, we had not
witnessed a more unfavourable prospect than that before us. No water was
to be seen, either from the tents, or from the different points of the
island which we visited, for the purpose of examining into the state of
the ice. We were now scantily supplied with fuel; the drift timber being
covered by the ice high up the bank, except just where the boat had
landed.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 6th.] In the evening a gale came on from the east,
and blew throughout the following day: we vainly hoped this would
produce some favourable change; and the water froze in the kettle on the
night of the 5th. The position of the encampment was ascertained by
observation to be, latitude 70 degrees 11 minutes N.; longitude 145
degrees 50 minutes W.; variation 42 degrees 56 minutes E.; so that
notwithstanding the obstructions we had met, an advance of two degrees
of longitude had been made in the two preceding days.
This island received the name of Flaxman, in honour of the late eminent
sculptor. It is about four miles long and two broad, and rises, at its
highest elevation, about fifty feet. In one of the ravines, where a
portion of the bank had been carried away by the disruption of the ice,
we perceived that the stratum of loose earth was not more than eighteen
inches thick, the lower bed being frozen mud; yet this small quantity of
soil, though very swampy, nourished grasses, several of the arctic
plants, and some few willows, that were about three inches high. Several
boulder stones were scattered on its beach, and also in the channel that
separates it from the main shore.
[Sidenote: Monday, 7th.] An easterly wind gave place to a calm on the
morning of the 7th: and as this change, though it produced no effect in
loosening the ice to the north, caused more water to flow into the
channel between the island and the main, we succeeded with little
difficulty in crossing the flats that had before impeded us. Beyond this
bar the water gradually deepened to three fathoms; and a favourable
breeze springing up, we set the sail, and steered for the outer point of
land in sight. We continued in smooth water until we reached Point
Thompson, when, having lost the shelter of the ice which was aground on
a tongue of gravel projecting from Flaxman Island, we became exposed to
an unpleasant swell.
The Lion was very leaky, in consequence of the blows she had received
from the ice; but as we could keep her free by baling, we did not lose
the favourable moment by stopping to repair her. Our course was
continued past Point Bullen, until we came to an island lying three
miles from the shore, which proved to be connected with the main land by
a reef. Dazzled by the glare of the sun in our eyes, the surf, which was
breaking on this reef, was mistaken for a ripple of the tide; and
although the sails were lowered, as a measure of precaution, we were so
near before the mistake was discovered, that the strength of the wind
drove the Lion aground, by which accident she took in much water. The
exertions of the crew soon got her afloat, and both boats were pulled to
windward of the island. The sails were then set, but as the wind had by
this time increased to a strong gale, they were close reefed. We stood
along the coast, looking for a favourable landing place, that we might
obtain shelter from an approaching storm which the appearance of the sky
indicated, and to repair the damage which the Lion had sustained. At
length, some posts that had been erected by the Esquimaux on a point,
denoted an approachable part of the coast, and we effected a landing
after lightening the boats, by carrying part of the cargo two hundred
yards through the water. The main shore to the westward of Flaxman
Island is so low that it is not visible at the distance of three miles,
with the exception of three small hummocks, which look like islands.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 8th.] The carpenter had finished the repairs of the
boat by midnight, and we were prepared to go forward, but were prevented
from moving by a very thick fog, which continued throughout the night,
and till eleven on the morning of the 8th. The storm continued violent
throughout the day, but the fog cleared away for the space of two hours,
and enabled us to perceive that the ice, which in the preceding evening
had been at a considerable distance from the land, was now tossing
about, in large masses, close to the border of the shallow water. We
were also enabled, during the interval of clear weather, to ascertain,
by astronomical observations, the latitude 70 degrees 16 minutes 27
seconds N.; longitude 147 degrees 38 minutes W.; and variation 43
degrees 15 minutes E.
The hunters were sent out in pursuit of some deer that were seen, and
Augustus killed one. They ascertained, during the chase, that we were on
an island, separated from the main shore by a channel, fordable at low
water. At this encampment we remarked the first instance of regularity
in the tide. It was low water at half past nine on the evening of the
7th, and high water at half past two the following morning; the rise
being sixteen inches. An equally regular tide was observed on the 8th,
but we could not ascertain the direction of the flood. [Sidenote:
Wednesday, 9th.] After sunset the squalls became extremely violent; and
until three in the afternoon of the 9th, the fog was so dense that every
object more distant than forty yards, was hidden. After that period, a
partial clearness of the atmosphere discovered to us the waves more high
than the day before, and beating heavily against the weather beach of
the island. We rejoiced, however, at seeing a large stream of ice to
windward, supposing that its presence there would cause the swell to go
down, and that we should be able to proceed as soon as the wind should
fall. We employed ourselves in observing the dip with Meyer's and the
common needles, as well as the magnetic force. The mean dip was 82
degrees 26 minutes. The temperature of the air this day varied from 38
degrees to 45 degrees. High water took place at fifteen minutes after
three P.M., the rise being two feet. The water did not fall so low as
yesterday, owing to the wind blowing more across the mouth of the bay.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 10th.] On the 10th, the continuance of the gale,
and of the fog more opaque, if possible, than before, and more wet, were
not only productive of irksome detention, but they prevented us from
taking exercise; our walks being confined to a space between the marks
which the Esquimaux had put up on two projecting points, whither we went
at every glimpse of clearness, to examine into the state of the waves.
We witnessed with regret, in these short rambles, the havoc which this
dreary weather made amongst the flowers. Many that had been blooming on
our arrival, were now lying prostrate and withered. These symptoms of
decay could not fail painfully to remind us that the term of our
operations was fast approaching; and often, at this time, did every one
express a wish that we had some decked vessel, in which the provision
could be secured from the injury of salt water, and the crew sheltered
when they required rest, that we might quit this shallow coast, and
steer at once towards Icy Cape. We designated this dreary place by the
name of Foggy Island. As an instance of the illusion occasioned by the
fog, I may mention that our hunters sallied forth, on more than one
occasion, to fire at what they supposed to be deer, on the bank about
one hundred yards from the tents, which, to their surprise, took wing,
and proved to be cranes and geese.
[Sidenote: Friday, 11th.] The wind changed from east to west in the
course of the night, and at eight in the morning of the 11th, the fog
dispersed sufficiently to allow of our seeing a point bearing N.W. by
W., about three miles and a half distant which we supposed to be an
island. We, therefore, hastened to embark; but before the boats could be
dragged so far from the shore that they would float, the fog returned.
The wind, however, being light, we resolved to proceed, and steer by
compass, to the land that had been seen. Soon after quitting the beach
we met with shoals, which forced us to alter the course more to the
north; and having made the distance at which we estimated the point to
be, and being ignorant which way the coast trended beyond it, we rested
for some time upon the oars, in the hope that the fog would clear away,
even for a short time, to enable us to shape our course anew; but in
vain; all our movements in the bay being impeded by the flats that
surrounded us, we were compelled to return to Foggy Island. Scarcely had
the men made a fire to dry their clothes, which were thoroughly wet from
wading over the flats, than the fog again dispersing, we pushed off once
more. On this occasion we arrived abreast of the point whilst the
weather continued clear, but found a reef, over which the waves washed,
stretching to the north-west, beyond the extent of our view. Just as we
began to proceed along the reef, the recurrence of the fog rendered it
necessary for us to seek for shelter on the shore; and as we were
heartily tired of our late encampment, we endeavoured to find another,
but the shoals prevented our reaching any landing-place. We, therefore,
retraced our course, though with much reluctance, to Foggy Island, which
the men declared to be an enchanted island. Though our wanderings this
day did not exceed seven miles, the crews were employed upwards of two
hours in dragging the boats through the mud, when the temperature of the
water was at 40 degrees, and that of the air 41 degrees. They endured
this fatigue with the greatest cheerfulness, though it was evident they
suffered very much from the cold; and in the evening we witnessed the
ill effects of this kind of labour by finding their legs much swelled
and inflamed. The fear of their becoming ill from a frequent repetition
of such operations made me resolve not to attempt the passage of these
flats again till the weather should be so clear that we might ascertain
their extent, and see in what way they might be passed with less risk.
Fog is, of all others, the most hazardous state of the atmosphere for
navigation in an icy sea, especially when it is accompanied by strong
breezes, but particularly so for boats where the shore is
unapproachable. If caught by a gale, a heavy swell, or drifting ice, the
result must be their wreck, or the throwing the provisions overboard to
lighten them, so as to proceed into shoal water. Many large pieces of
ice were seen on the borders of the shallow water; and from the lowness
of the temperature, we concluded that the main body was at no great
distance. We had also passed through a stream of perfectly fresh water,
which we supposed was poured out from a large river in the intermediate
vicinity, but the fog prevented our seeing its outlet. [Sidenote:
Saturday, 12th.] The atmosphere was equally foggy throughout the night,
and all the 12th, although the wind had changed to the east, and blew a
strong breeze. Winds from this quarter had been extremely prevalent
since the preceding April: but on our former visit to the Polar Sea,
they had been of rare occurrence, and confined to the spring months,
which we passed at Fort Enterprize. The obstinate continuance of fog
forms another material difference between this season and the same
period of 1821. We were only detained three times in navigating along
the coast that year to the east of the Coppermine River; but on this
voyage hardly a day passed after our departure from the Mackenzie that
the atmosphere was not, at some time, so foggy as to hide every object
more distant than four or five miles. The day that I visited Mount
Conybeare, and that spent on Flaxman Island, form the only exceptions to
this remark. A question, therefore, suggests itself:--Whence arises this
difference? which, I presume, can be best answered by reference to the
greater accumulation of ice on this coast, and to the low and very
swampy nature of the land. There is a constant exhalation of moisture
from the ice and swamps during the summer months, which is, perhaps,
prevented from being carried off by the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains,
and, therefore, becomes condensed into a fog. The coast to the eastward
of the Coppermine River is high and dry, and far less encumbered with
ice.
Some deer appearing near the encampment, a party was despatched in
pursuit of them; but having been previously fired at by Augustus, they
proved too wary. The exertions of the men were, however, rewarded by the
capture of some geese and ducks. The whole of the vegetation had now
assumed the autumnal tint.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 13th.] There was not the least abatement in the wind,
or change in the murky atmosphere, throughout the 13th. The party
assembled at divine service, and afterwards amused themselves as they
could in their tents, which were now so saturated with wet as to be very
comfortless abodes; and in order to keep ourselves tolerably warm we
were obliged to cover the feet with blankets; our protracted stay
having caused such a great expenditure of the drift-wood, that we found
it necessary to be frugal in its use, and only to light the fire when we
wanted to cook the meals. The nights, too, we regretted to find, were
lengthening very fast; so that from ten P.M. to two A.M., there was too
little light for proceeding in any unknown tract.
[Sidenote: Monday, 14th.] The wind this day was moderate, but the fog
was more dense, and very wet. Tired, however, of the confinement of the
tent, most of the party wandered out in search of amusement, though we
could not see one hundred yards; and some partridges, ducks, and geese,
were shot.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 15th.] The fog was dispersed at seven in the morning
of the 15th, by a north-east gale, which created too great a surf on the
beach for us to launch the boats, and the fog returned in the evening.
The temperature fell to 35 degrees, and in the course of the night ice
was formed on the small pools near the encampment. Augustus set off in
the afternoon to cross over to the main shore for the purpose of
hunting, and to see whether there were any traces of the western
Esquimaux, but he found none, and only saw three rein-deer.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 16th.] The weather again became clear, after the
sun rose, on the 16th, and we embarked as soon as the flowing of the
tide enabled us to launch the boats, all in the highest spirits at the
prospect of escaping from this detestable island. We took advantage of
the fair wind, set the sails, and steered to the westward parallel to
the coast. We had never more than from three to six feet water, for the
first seven miles, until we had passed round the reef that projects from
the point we had so often attempted to reach, and which was named Point
Anxiety.
Between Point Anxiety and Point Chandos, which is eight miles further to
the westward, the land was occasionally seen; but after rounding the
latter point we lost sight of it, and steered to the westward across the
mouth of Yarborough Inlet, the soundings varying from five feet to five
fathoms. The fog returned, and the wind freshening, soon created such a
swell upon the flats, that it became necessary to haul further from the
land; but the drift ice beginning to close around us, we could no longer
proceed with safety, and, therefore, endeavoured to find a
landing-place. An attempt was made at Point Herald, and another on the
western point of Prudhoe bay, but both were frustrated by the shoalness
of the water, and the height of the surf. The increasing violence of the
gale, however, and density of the fog, rendering it absolutely
necessary for us to obtain some shelter, we stood out to seaward, with
the view of making fast to a large piece of ice. In our way we fell
among gravelly reefs, and arriving at the same time suddenly in smooth
water, we effected a landing on one of them. A temporary dispersion of
the fog showed that we were surrounded with banks nearly on a level with
the water, and protected to seaward by a large body of ice lying
aground. The patch of gravel on which we were encamped, was about five
hundred yards in circumference, destitute of water, and with no more
drift wood than a few willow branches, sufficient to make one fire.