Voyage to the Sea--Part from the Eastern Detachment at Point
Separation--Reach the Mouth of the Mackenzie--Interview and Contest with
the Esquimaux--Detained by Ice--Meet friendly Esquimaux--Point Sabine.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 22nd.] On our arrival at the Bear Lake River, we
were mortified to find the ice drifting down in large masses, with such
rapidity as to render embarkation unsafe. The same cause detained us the
whole of the following day; and as we had brought no more provision from
the house than sufficient for an uninterrupted passage to Fort Norman,
we sent for a supply of fish. This was a very sultry day, the
thermometer in the shade being 71 degrees at noon, and 74 degrees at
three P.M.
The descent of the ice having ceased at eight in the morning of the
24th, we embarked. The heavy stores were put into a bateau, manned by
Canadians, who were experienced in the passage through rapids, and the
rest of the boats were ordered to follow in its wake, keeping at such a
distance from each other as to allow of any evolution that might be
necessary to avoid the stones. The boats struck several times, but
received no injury. At the foot of the rapid we met a canoe, manned by
four of our Canadian voyagers, whom Dr. Richardson had sent with some
letters that had arrived at Fort Norman from the Athabasca Lake; and as
the services of the men were wanted, they were embarked in the boats,
and the canoe was left. Shortly afterwards we overtook Beaulieu, who had
just killed a young moose deer, which afforded the party two substantial
meals. At this spot, and generally along the river, we found abundance
of wild onions.
We entered the Mackenzie River at eight in the evening, and the current
being too strong for us to advance against the stream with oars, we had
recourse to the tracking line, and travelled all night. It was
fatiguing, owing to large portions of the banks having been overthrown
by the disruption of the ice, and from the ground being so soft that the
men dragging the rope sank up to the knees at every step; but these
impediments were less regarded than the ceaseless torment of the
musquitoes. We halted to sup at the spot where Sir A. Mackenzie saw the
flame rising from the bank in 1789. The precipice was still on fire,
the smoke issuing through several apertures. Specimens of the coal were
procured.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 25th.] We reached Fort Norman at noon on the 25th. On
the following morning the provision and stores which had been left at
this place were examined, and found to be in excellent order, except the
powder in one of the magazines, which had become caked from damp. I had
ordered a supply of iron-work, knives, and beads, for the sea voyage
from Fort Simpson; they had arrived some days before us, and with our
stock thus augmented, we were well furnished with presents for the
natives. The packages being finished on the 27th, the boats received
their respective ladings, and we were rejoiced to find that each stowed
her cargo well, and with her crew embarked floated as buoyantly as our
most sanguine wishes had anticipated. The heavy stores, however, were
afterwards removed into a bateau that was to be taken to the mouth of
the river, to prevent the smaller boats from receiving injury in passing
over the shoals.
We waited one day to make some pounded meat we had brought into
pemmican. In the mean time the seamen enlarged the foresail of the
Reliance.
The letters which I received from the Athabasca department informed me
that the things I had required from the Company in February last, would
be duly forwarded; they likewise contained a very different version of
the story which had led us to suppose that Captain Parry was passing the
winter on the northern coast. We now learned that the Indians had only
seen some pieces of wood recently cut, and a deer that had been killed
by an arrow; these things we concluded were done by the Esquimaux. Three
men from Slave Lake, whom I had sent for to supply the place of our
Chipewyan hunters, who were very inactive last winter, joined us at this
place. They were to accompany Mr. Dease and the Canadians to Fort
Franklin; and that they, as well as the Indians, might have every
encouragement to exert themselves in procuring provisions during the
summer, I directed a supply of the goods they were likely to require, to
be sent from Fort Simpson, as soon as possible. The longitude of Fort
Norman was observed to be 124 degrees 44 minutes 47 seconds W., its
latitude 64 degrees 40 minutes 38 seconds N.; variation 39 degrees 57
minutes 52 seconds E.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 28th.] Early this morning the boats were laden and
decorated with their ensigns and pendants, and after breakfast we
quitted the fort, amidst the hearty cheers of our friends Mr. Dease, Mr.
Brisbois, and the Canadians, and I am sure carried their best wishes for
our success. We halted at noon to obtain the latitude, which placed the
entrance of Bear Lake River in 64 degrees 55 minutes 37 seconds N.; and
Dr. Richardson took advantage of this delay to visit the mountain at
that point, but his stay was short, in consequence of a favourable
breeze springing up. We perceived that the four boats sailed at nearly
an equal rate in light breezes, but that in strong winds the two larger
ones had the advantage. When we landed to sup the musquitoes beset us so
furiously that we hastily despatched the meal and re-embarked, to drive
under easy sail before the current. They continued, however, to pursue
us, and deprived us of all rest. On our arrival, next morning, at the
place of the first rapids, there was scarcely any appearance of broken
water, and the sand-bank on which Augustus had been so perilously
situated in the preceding autumn, was entirely covered. This was, of
course, to be ascribed to the spring floods; the increase of water to
produce such a change, must have exceeded six feet. In the afternoon we
were overtaken by a violent thunder-storm, with heavy rain, which made
us apprehensive for the pemmican, that spoils on being wet. [Sidenote:
Friday, 30th.] It unfortunately happened that a convenient place for
spreading out the bags that were injured could not be found, until we
reached the Hare-Skin River, below the Rampart Defile, which was at nine
o'clock. They were spread out the next morning, with the other
perishable parts of the cargo, and we remained until they were dry. We
embarked at ten, and, aided by a favourable breeze, made good progress
until six P.M., when the threatening appearance of the clouds induced us
to put on shore, and we had but just covered the baggage before heavy
rain fell, that continued throughout the night. Four Hare Indians came
to the encampment, to whom dried meat and ammunition were given, as they
were in want of food from being unable to set their nets in the present
high state of the water. These were the only natives seen since our
departure from Fort Norman; they informed us, that, in consequence of
not being able to procure a sufficiency of fish in the Mackenzie at this
season, their companions had withdrawn to gain their subsistence from
the small lakes in the interior.
[Sidenote: July, 1st.] We embarked at half past one on the morning of
the 1st of July. The sultry weather of the preceding day made us now
feel more keenly the chill of a strong western breeze, and the mist
which it brought on, about four hours after our departure. This wind
being contrary to the current, soon raised such high waves that the
boats took in a great deal of water; and as we made but little progress,
and were very cold, we landed to kindle a fire, and prepare breakfast;
after which we continued the voyage to Fort Good Hope, without any of
the interruptions from sand-banks that we had experienced in the autumn.
On our arrival we were saluted with a discharge of musketry by a large
party of Loucheux, who had been some time waiting at the fort, with
their wives and families, for the purpose of seeing us. After a short
conference with Mr. Bell, the master of the post, we were informed that
these Indians had lately met a numerous party of Esquimaux at the Red
River, by appointment, to purchase their furs; and that in consequence
of a misunderstanding respecting some bargain, a quarrel had ensued
between them, which fortunately terminated without bloodshed. We could
not, however, gain any satisfactory account of the movements of the
Esquimaux. The only answers to our repeated questions on these points
were, that the Esquimaux came in sixty canoes to Red River, and that
they supposed them to have gone down the eastern channel, for the
purpose of fishing near its mouth. The chief, however, informed us that
he had mentioned our coming to their lands this spring, and that they
had received the intelligence without comment; but from his not having
alluded to this communication until the question was pressed upon him,
and from the manner of his answering our inquiries, I thought it
doubtful whether such a communication had really been made.
We had been led to expect much information from the Loucheux respecting
the channels of the river, and the coast on the east and west side near
its mouth, but we were greatly disappointed. They were ignorant of the
channel we ought to follow in order to arrive at the western mouth of
the river; and the only intelligence they gave us respecting the coast
on that side was, that the Esquimaux represented it to be almost
constantly beset by ice. They said also that they were unacquainted with
the tribes who reside to the westward. Several of the party had been
down the eastern channel, of which they made a rude sketch; and their
account of the coast on that side was, that, as far as they were
acquainted with it, it was free from ice during the summer.
Mr. C. Dease, the former master of Fort Good Hope, had retained two of
the Loucheux to accompany the Expedition until we should meet the
Esquimaux: they spoke a few words of the language, which they had
learned during an occasional residence with the tribe that resides on
the eastern border of the river. But the knowledge of the recent
transactions at Red River had convinced us that their presence would be
more likely to irritate than pacify the Esquimaux. We also discovered
that their sole motive for accompanying us was the desire of trading
with that people; and further, that they expected we should take their
families and baggage in the boats. Their services were therefore
declined; and a compensation was offered to them for their loss of time
in waiting for us; but having fixed their minds on the gain to be
derived from us and from the trade with the Esquimaux, they expressed
great disappointment, and were very intemperate in their language. As I
was anxious, for the sake of the trade at the post, to leave them no
room to complain either of us, or of Mr. Dease who had acted for us, I
spent several hours in debate with them to very little purpose, and at
last discovered that the whole scene was got up for the purpose of
obtaining a few more goods. My compliance with their wish rendered them
quite contented. I afterwards added a present to the principal chief of
the party, who still expressed a wish to accompany us, but he frankly
said that if he went, all his young men must go also. They came in the
evening in great good humour to exhibit their dances in front of our
tent, a compliment we could well have dispensed with, as we were busy.
Having ascertained that the Esquimaux were likely to be seen in greater
numbers than had been at first imagined, I increased the stock of
presents from the store at this place, and exchanged two of our guns,
which were defective, that the party might have entire confidence in
their arms. And to provide against the casualty of either or both
branches of the Expedition having to return this way, I requested Mr.
Bell to store up as much meat as he could during the summer. We learned
from this gentleman that the supply of meat at this post was very
precarious, and that had we not left the five bags of pemmican in the
autumn, the residents would have been reduced to great distress for food
during the winter. These bags were now replaced. The arrangements being
concluded, we spent the greater part, of the night in writing to
England. I addressed to the Colonial Secretary an account of our
proceedings up to this time, and I felt happy to be able to state that
we were equipped with every requisite for the Expedition.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 2nd.] We quitted Fort Good Hope at five on the 2nd.
In the passage down the river we were visited by several Loucheux, who,
the instant we appeared, launched their canoes, and came off to welcome
us. We landed, at their request, to purchase fish; yet, after the
bargain had been completed, an old woman stepped forward, and would only
allow of our receiving two fish: she maintained her point, and carried
off the rest in spite of all remonstrance. The natives were all clothed
in new leathern dresses, and looked much neater, and in better health,
than last autumn. Being anxious to reach the Red River, we continued
rowing against the wind until after midnight. On reaching that place,
the ground proved too wet for us to encamp; we, therefore, proceeded a
short distance lower down, and put up under some sandstone cliffs, where
there was but just room for the tents. As we were now on the borders of
the Esquimaux territory, we devoted the following morning to cleaning
the arms; and a gun, dagger, and ammunition, were issued to each person.
We had no reason, indeed, to apprehend hostility from the Esquimaux,
after the messages they had sent to Fort Franklin, but vigilance and
precaution are never to be omitted in intercourse with strange tribes.
[Sidenote: Monday, 3rd.] Embarking at two in the afternoon of the 3rd,
we soon entered the expansion of the river whence the different channels
branch off, and steering along the western shore, we came to the head of
a branch that flowed towards the Rocky Mountain range. Being anxious not
to take the eastern detachment out of their course, I immediately
encamped to make the necessary arrangements for the separation of the
parties. The warm clothing, shoes, and articles for presents, had been
previously put up in separate packages, but the provisions remained to
be divided, which was done in due proportion. Twenty-six bags of
pemmican, and two of grease, were set apart for the Dolphin and Union,
with a supply of arrow-root, macaroni, flour, and portable soup, making
in all eighty days' provision, with an allowance for waste. The Lion and
Reliance received thirty-two bags of pemmican, and two of grease, with
sufficient arrow-root, &c., to make their supply proportionate to that
of the eastern party. Provided no accident occurred, neither party could
be in absolute want for the whole summer, because at two-thirds
allowance the pemmican could be made to last one hundred days; and we
had reason to expect to meet with deer occasionally.
In the evening I delivered my instructions to Dr. Richardson; they were
in substance as follows:--He was to take under his charge Mr. E.N.
Kendall, and ten men, and proceed in the Dolphin and Union to survey the
coast between the Mackenzie and Copper-Mine Rivers. On reaching the
latter river, he was to travel by land to the north-east arm of Great
Bear Lake, where Beaulieu was under orders to meet him with a boat for
the conveyance of his party to Fort Franklin. But if he should be so
much delayed on the coast as to have no prospect of reaching the
Copper-Mine River by the close of August, or the Bear Lake Portage by
the 20th of September, he was not to expose himself or his party to risk
by persevering beyond the 15th or 20th of August, but was to return to
Fort Franklin by way of the Mackenzie, or by any other route he might
discover. The only cause of regret I had respecting the equipment of the
eastern party was my being unable to provide Dr. Richardson with a
chronometer, the main-springs of two out of the three chronometers
furnished to us having been broken. I borrowed, however, from Mr. Dease,
a watch, made by Barraud, to enable Mr. Kendall to obtain the longitude
by lunar distances. They were likewise provided with that excellent
instrument Massey's Log; and knowing Mr. Kendall's intimate acquaintance
with marine surveying, I had no doubt of his being able to make a
correct survey of the coast. The spot where the above arrangements were
made, bears the name of Point Separation, and lies in latitude 67
degrees 38 minutes N., longitude 133 degrees 53 minutes W.
As the parties entertained for each other sentiments of true friendship
and regard, it will easily be imagined that the evening preceding our
separation was spent in the most cordial and cheerful manner. We felt
that we were only separating to be employed on services of equal
interest; and we looked forward with delight to our next meeting, when,
after a successful termination, we might recount the incidents of our
respective voyages. The best supper our means afforded was provided, and
a bowl of punch crowned the parting feast.
We were joined by an elderly Loucheux, who gave us a better account of
the eastern and western channels than we had hitherto obtained. "The
west branch," he said, "would take us to the sea, and flowed the whole
way at no great distance from the mountains." "The eastern was a good
channel, and passed close to the hills on that side." He further
informed us that the Esquimaux were generally to be found on an island
in the eastern channel, but were seldom seen in the western branch. He
was, however, unacquainted with the coast, and we found afterwards that
he knew little about the movements of the Esquimaux.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 4th.] By six in the morning of the 4th the boats
were all laden, and ready for departure. It was impossible not to be
struck with the difference between our present complete state of
equipment and that on which we had embarked on our former disastrous
voyage. Instead of a frail bark canoe, and a scanty supply of food, we
were now about to commence the sea voyage in excellent boats, stored
with three months' provision. At Dr. Richardson's desire the western
party embarked first. He and his companions saluted us with three hearty
cheers, which were warmly returned; and as we were passing round the
point that was to hide them from our view, we perceived them also
embarking. Augustus was rather melancholy, as might have been expected,
on his parting from Ooligbuck, to proceed he knew not whither; but he
recovered his wonted flow of spirits by the evening.
The western party were distributed as follows:--
LION. RELIANCE.
John Franklin, _Captain R.N._ George Back, _Lieutenant R.N._ William
Duncan, _Cockswain_. Robert Spinks, _Cockswain_. Thomas Matthews,
_Carpenter_. Robert Hallom, _Corpl. of Marines_. Gustavus Aird,
_Bowman_. Charles Mackenzie, _Bowman_. George Wilson, _Marine_.
Alexander Currie, _Middle Man_. Archibald Stewart, _Soldier_. Robert
Spence, _Ditto_. Neil Mac Donald, _Voyager_. Alexis Vivier, _Canadian_.
Augustus, _Esquimaux_. Francois Felix, _Ditto_.
Our course was directly towards the Rocky Mountain range, till we came
near the low land that skirts its base; where, following the deepest
channel, we turned to the northward. I was desirous of coasting the main
shore, but finding some of the westernmost branches too shallow, we kept
on the outside of three islands for about twelve miles, when we entered
the channel that washes the west side of Simpson's Island. It was
winding, and its breadth seldom exceeded a quarter of a mile. During our
progress we occasionally caught a glimpse of the Rocky Mountains, which
was an agreeable relief to the very dull picture that the muddy islands
in our neighbourhood afforded. We halted to breakfast just before noon,
and observed the latitude 67 degrees 51 minutes N.
In the afternoon one deer was seen, and many swans and geese; we did not
fire at them, for fear of alarming any Esquimaux that might be near.
Encamped at eight P.M., opposite Simpson's Island, in latitude 68
degrees 13 minutes N., longitude 134 degrees 27 minutes W. The boats
were secured without discharging the cargoes, and two men were placed on
guard, to be relieved every two hours.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 5th.] We set forward at four A.M., with a
favourable breeze, and made good progress, though the river was very
winding. At eight we entered a branch that turned to the westward round
the point of Halkett Island into the channel washing the main shore. We
soon afterwards arrived at a spot where a large body of Esquimaux had
been encamped in the spring, and supposing that they might revisit this
place, a present of an ice-chisel, kettle, and knife, was hung up in a
conspicuous situation. Soon after we had entered the channel that flows
by the main shore, we first perceived lop-sticks, or pine trees,
divested of their lower branches, for the purpose of land-marks, and
therefore concluded it was much frequented by the Esquimaux. Our course
was then altered to N.W., and we soon passed the last of the well-wooded
islands. The spruce fir-trees terminated in latitude 68 degrees 36
minutes N.; and dwarf willows only grew below this part. A very
picturesque view was obtained of the Rocky Mountains, and we saw the
entire outline of their peaked hills, table-land, and quoin shaped
terminations. Two lofty ranges were fronted by a lower line of
round-backed hills, in which we perceived the strata to be horizontal,
and the stone of a yellow colour. A few miles lower down we found hills
of sand close to the west border of the river. We passed several
deserted huts, and in one spot saw many chips and pieces of split
drift-wood, that appeared to have been recently cut. The channel varied
in breadth from a half to three-quarters of a mile, but, except in the
stream of the current, the water was so shallow as scarcely to float the
boats, and its greatest depth did not exceed five feet. We landed at
eight P.M., on Halkett Island, intending to encamp, but owing to the
swampiness of the ground the tent could not be pitched. Having made a
fire and cooked our supper, we retired to sleep under the coverings of
the boats, which afforded us good shelter from a gale and heavy rain
that came on before midnight. Latitude 68 degrees 39 minutes N.,
longitude 135 degrees 35 minutes W.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 6th.] The continuance of stormy weather detained us
until two P.M. of the 9th, when the rain ceasing, we embarked. After
passing through the expansion of the river near the west extreme of
Halkett Island, we turned into the narrower and more winding channel,
between Colvill Island and the main. A fog coming on at eight P.M. we
encamped, in latitude 68 degrees 48 minutes N., longitude 136 degrees 4
minutes W.; temperature of the air 42 degrees, that of the water being
47 degrees in the middle of the stream. Several of the glaucous gulls
were seen, and this circumstance, as well as a line of bright cloud to
the N.W. resembling the ice-blink, convinced us that the sea was not far
off. A rein-deer appearing near the encampment, two men were sent after
it, who returned unsuccessful. Augustus obtained a goose for supper.
Many geese, swans, and ducks, had been seen on the marshy shores of the
island in the course of the day.
[Sidenote: Friday, 7th.] The night was cold, and at daylight on the 7th
the thermometer indicated 36 degrees. Embarking at four A.M. we sailed
down the river for two hours, when our progress was arrested by the
shallowness of the water. Having endeavoured, without effect, to drag
the boats over the flat, we remounted the stream to examine an opening
to the westward, which we had passed. On reaching the opening we found
the current setting through it into the Mackenzie, by which we knew that
it could not afford a passage to the sea, but we pulled up it a little
way, in the hope of obtaining a view over the surrounding low grounds
from the top of an Esquimaux house which we saw before us. A low fog,
which had prevailed all the morning, cleared away, and we discovered
that the stream we had now ascended issued from a chain of lakes lying
betwixt us and the western hills, which were about six miles distant,
the whole intervening country between the hills and the Mackenzie being
flat.
After obtaining an observation for longitude in 136 degrees 19 minutes
W., and taking the bearing of several remarkable points of the Rocky
Mountain range, we returned to the Mackenzie, and passing the shallows
which had before impeded us, by taking one half the boats' cargoes over
at a time, we came in sight of the mouth of the river. Whilst the crews
were stowing the boats, I obtained an observation for latitude in 68
degrees 53 minutes N., and having walked towards the mouth of the river,
discovered on an island, which formed the east side of the bay into
which the river opened, a crowd of tents, with many Esquimaux strolling
amongst them. I instantly hastened to the boats, to make preparations
for opening a communication with them, agreeably to my instructions. A
selection of articles for presents and trade being made, the rest of the
lading was closely covered up; the arms were inspected, and every man
was directed to keep his gun ready for immediate use. I had previously
informed Lieutenant Back of my intention of opening the communication
with the Esquimaux by landing amongst them, accompanied only by
Augustus; and I now instructed him to keep the boats afloat, and the
crews with their arms ready to support us in the event of the natives
proving hostile; but on no account to fire until he was convinced that
our safety could be secured in no other way. Having received an
impression from the narratives of different navigators that the
sacrifices of life which had occurred in their interviews with savages,
had been generally occasioned by the crews mistaking noise and violent
gestures for decided hostility, I thought it necessary to explain my
sentiments on this point to all the men, and peremptorily forbade their
firing till I set the example, or till they were ordered to do so by
Lieutenant Back. They were also forbidden to trade with the natives on
any pretence, and were ordered to leave every thing of that kind to the
officers.
On quitting the channel of the river we entered into the bay, which was
about six miles wide, with an unbounded prospect to seaward, and steered
towards the tents under easy sail, with the ensigns flying. The water
became shallow as we drew towards the island, and the boats touched the
ground when about a mile from the beach; we shouted, and made signs to
the Esquimaux to come off, and then pulled a short way back to await
their arrival in deeper water. Three canoes instantly put off from the
shore, and before they could reach us others were launched in such quick
succession, that the whole space between the island and the boats was
covered by them. The Esquimaux canoes contain only one person, and are
named _kaiyacks_; but they have a kind of open boat capable of holding
six or eight people, which is named _oomiak_. The men alone use the
kaiyacks, and the oomiaks are allotted to the women and children. We
endeavoured to count their numbers as they approached, and had proceeded
as far as seventy-three canoes, and five oomiaks, when the sea became so
crowded by fresh arrivals, that we could advance no farther in our
reckoning. The three headmost canoes were paddled by elderly men, who,
most probably, had been selected to open the communication. They
advanced towards us with much caution, halting when just within speaking
distance, until they had been assured of our friendship, and repeatedly
invited by Augustus to approach and receive the present which I offered
to them. Augustus next explained to them in detail the purport of our
visit, and told them that if we succeeded in finding a navigable channel
for large ships, a trade highly beneficial to them would be opened. They
were delighted with this intelligence, and repeated it to their
countrymen, who testified their joy by tossing their hands aloft, and
raising the most deafening shout of applause I ever heard.
After the first present, I resolved to bestow no more gratuitously, but
always to exact something, however small, in return; the three elderly
men readily offered the ornaments they wore in their cheeks, their arms,
and knives, in exchange for the articles I gave them. Up to this time
the first three were the only kaiyacks that had ventured near the boats,
but the natives around us had now increased to two hundred and fifty or
three hundred persons, and they all became anxious to share in the
lucrative trade which they saw established, and pressed eagerly upon us,
offering for sale their bows, arrows, and spears, which they had
hitherto kept concealed within their canoes. I endeavoured in vain,
amidst the clamour and bustle of trade, to obtain some information
respecting the coast, but finding the natives becoming more and more
importunate and troublesome, I determined to leave them, and, therefore,
directed the boats' heads to be put to seaward. Notwithstanding the
forwardness of the Esquimaux, which we attributed solely to the desire
of a rude people to obtain the novel articles they saw in our
possession, they had hitherto shown no unfriendly disposition; and when
we told them of our intention of going to sea, they expressed no desire
to detain us, but, on the contrary, when the Lion grounded in the act of
turning, they assisted us in the kindest manner by dragging her round.
This manoeuvre was not of much advantage to us, for, from the rapid
ebbing of the tide, both boats lay aground; and the Esquimaux told us,
through the medium of Augustus, that the whole bay was alike flat, which
we afterwards found to be correct.
An accident happened at this time, which was productive of unforeseen
and very annoying consequences. A kaiyack being overset by one of the
Lion's oars, its owner was plunged into the water with his head in the
mud, and apparently in danger of being drowned. We instantly extricated
him from his unpleasant situation, and took him into the boat until the
water could be thrown out of his kaiyack, and Augustus, seeing him
shivering with cold, wrapped him up in his own great coat. At first he
was exceedingly angry, but soon became reconciled to his situation, and
looking about, discovered that we had many bales, and other articles, in
the boat, which had been concealed from the people in the kaiyacks, by
the coverings being carefully spread over all. He soon began to ask for
every thing he saw, and expressed much displeasure on our refusing to
comply with his demands; he also, as we afterwards learned, excited the
cupidity of others by his account of the inexhaustible riches in the
Lion, and several of the younger men endeavoured to get into both our
boats, but we resisted all their attempts. Though we had not hitherto
observed any of them stealing, yet they showed so much desire to obtain
my flag, that I had it furled and put out of sight, as well as every
thing else that I thought could prove a temptation to them. They
continued, however, to press upon us so closely, and made so many
efforts to get into the boats, that I accepted the offer of two chiefs,
who said that if they were allowed to come in, they would keep the
others out. For a time they kept their word, and the crews took
advantage of the respite thus afforded, to endeavour to force the boats
towards the river into deeper water. The Reliance floated, but the Lion
was immoveable, and Lieutenant Back dropping astern again made his boat
fast to the Lion by a rope. At this time one of the Lion's crew
perceived that the man whose kaiyack had been upset had a pistol under
his shirt, and was about to take it from him, but I ordered him to
desist, as I thought it might have been purchased from the Loucheux. It
had been, in fact, stolen from Lieutenant Back, and the thief,
perceiving our attention directed to it, leaped out of the boat, and
joined his countrymen, carrying with him the great coat which Augustus
had lent him.
The water had now ebbed so far, that it was not knee deep at the boats,
and the younger men wading in crowds around us, tried to steal every
thing within their reach; slyly, however, and with so much dexterity, as
almost to escape detection. The moment this disposition was manifested,
I directed the crews not to suffer any one to come alongside, and
desired Augustus to tell the two chiefs, who still remained seated in
the Lion, that the noise and confusion occasioned by the crowd around
the boats greatly impeded our exertions; and that if they would go on
shore and leave us for the present, we would hereafter return from the
ship which we expected to meet near this part of the coast, with a more
abundant supply of goods. They received this communication with much
apparent satisfaction, and jumping out of the boats repeated the speech
aloud to their companions. From the general exclamation of "_teyma_,"
which followed, and from perceiving many of the elderly men retire to a
distance, I conceived that they acquiesced in the propriety of the
suggestion, and that they were going away, but I was much deceived. They
only retired to concert a plan of attack, and returned in a short time
shouting some words which Augustus could not make out. We soon, however,
discovered their purport, by two of the three chiefs who were on board
the Reliance, jumping out, and, with the others who hurried to their
assistance, dragging her towards the south shore of the river.
Lieutenant Back desired the chief who remained with him to tell them to
desist, but he replied by pointing to the beach, and repeating the word
_teyma_, _teyma_, with a good-natured smile. He said, however, something
to those who were seated in the canoes that were alongside, on which
they threw their long knives and arrows into the boat, taking care, in
so doing, that the handles and feathered ends were turned towards the
crew, as an indication of pacific intentions.
As soon as I perceived the Reliance moving under the efforts of the
natives, I directed the Lion's crew to endeavour to follow her, but our
boat remained fast until the Esquimaux lent their aid and dragged her
after the Reliance. Two of the most powerful men, jumping on board at
the same time, seized me by the wrists and forced me to sit between
them; and as I shook them loose two or three times, a third Esquimaux
took his station in front to catch my arm whenever I attempted to lift
my gun, or the broad dagger which hung by my side. The whole way to the
shore they kept repeating the word "_teyma_," beating gently on my left
breast with their hands, and pressing mine against their breasts. As we
neared the beach, two oomiaks, full of women, arrived, and the
"_teymas_" and vociferation were redoubled. The Reliance was first
brought to the shore, and the Lion close to her a few seconds
afterwards. The three men who held me now leaped ashore, and those who
had remained in their canoes taking them out of the water, carried them
to a little distance. A numerous party then drawing their knives, and
stripping themselves to the waist, ran to the Reliance, and having first
hauled her as far up as they could, began a regular pillage, handing the
articles to the women, who, ranged in a row behind, quickly conveyed
them out of sight. Lieutenant Back and his crew strenuously, but
good-humouredly, resisted the attack, and rescued many things from their
grasp, but they were overpowered by numbers, and had even some
difficulty in preserving their arms. One fellow had the audacity to
snatch Vivier's knife from his breast, and to cut the buttons from his
coat, whilst three stout Esquimaux surrounded Lieutenant Back with
uplifted daggers, and were incessant in their demands for whatever
attracted their attention, especially for the anchor buttons which he
wore on his waistcoat. In this juncture a young chief coming to his aid,
drove the assailants away. In their retreat they carried off a writing
desk and cloak, which the chief rescued, and then seating himself on
Lieutenant Back's knee, he endeavoured to persuade his countrymen to
desist by vociferating "_teyma teyma_," and was, indeed, very active in
saving whatever he could from their depredations. The Lion had hitherto
been beset by smaller numbers, and her crew, by firmly keeping their
seats on the cover spread over the cargo, and by beating the natives off
with the butt-ends of their muskets, had been able to prevent any
article of importance from being carried away. But as soon as I
perceived that the work of plunder was going on so actively in the
Reliance, I went with Augustus to assist in repressing the tumult; and
our bold and active little interpreter rushed among the crowd on shore,
and harangued them on their treacherous conduct, until he was actually
hoarse. In a short time, however, I was summoned back by Duncan, who
called out to me that the Esquimaux had now commenced in earnest to
plunder the Lion, and on my return, I found the sides of the boat lined
with men as thick as they could stand, brandishing their knives in the
most furious manner, and attempting to seize every thing that was
moveable; whilst another party was ranged on the outside ready to bear
away the stolen goods. The Lion's crew still kept their seats, but as it
was impossible for so small a number to keep off such a formidable and
determined body, several articles were carried off. Our principal object
was to prevent the loss of the arms, oars, or masts, or any thing on
which the continuance of the voyage, or our personal safety, depended.
Many attempts were made to purloin the box containing the astronomical
instruments, and Duncan, after thrice rescuing it from their hands, made
it fast to his leg with a cord, determined that they should drag him
away also if they took it.
In the whole of this unequal contest, the self-possession of our men was
not more conspicuous than the coolness with which the Esquimaux received
the heavy blows dealt to them with the butts of the muskets. But at
length, irritated at being so often foiled in their attempts, several of
them jumped on board and forcibly endeavoured to take the daggers and
shot-belts that were about the men's persons; and I myself was engaged
with three of them who were trying to disarm me. Lieutenant Back
perceiving our situation, and fully appreciating my motives in not
coming to extremities, had the kindness to send to my assistance the
young chief who had protected him, and who, on his arrival, drove my
antagonists out of the boat. I then saw that my crew were nearly
overpowered in the fore part of the boat, and hastening to their aid, I
fortunately arrived in time to prevent George Wilson from discharging
the contents of his musket into the body of an Esquimaux. He had
received a provocation of which I was ignorant until the next day, for
the fellow had struck at him with a knife, and cut through his coat and
waistcoat; and it was only after the affray was over that I learned that
Gustavus Aird, the bowman of the Lion, and three of the Reliance's crew,
had also narrowly escaped from being wounded, their clothes being cut by
the blows made at them with knives. No sooner was the bow clear of one
set of marauders, than another party commenced their operations at the
stern. My gun was now the object of the struggle, which was beginning to
assume a more serious complexion, when the whole of the Esquimaux
suddenly fled, and hid themselves behind the drift timber and canoes on
the beach. It appears that by the exertions of the crew, the Reliance
was again afloat, and Lieutenant Back wisely judging that this was the
proper moment for more active interference, directed his men to level
their muskets, which had produced that sudden panic. The Lion happily
floated soon after, and both were retiring from the beach, when the
Esquimaux having recovered from their consternation, put their kaiyacks
in the water, and were preparing to follow us; but I desired Augustus to
say that I would shoot the first man who came within range of our
muskets, which prevented them.
It was now about eight o'clock in the evening, and we had been engaged
in this harrassing contest for several hours, yet the only things of
importance which they had carried off were the mess canteen and kettles,
a tent, a bale containing blankets and shoes, one of the men's bags, and
the jib-sails. The other articles they took could well be spared, and
they would, in fact, have been distributed amongst them, had they
remained quiet. The place to which the boats were dragged is designated
by the name of Pillage Point. I cannot sufficiently praise the fortitude
and obedience of both the boats' crews in abstaining from the use of
their arms. In the first instance I had been influenced by the desire of
preventing unnecessary bloodshed, and afterwards, when the critical
situation of my party might have well warranted me in employing more
decided means for their defence, I still endeavoured to temporize, being
convinced that as long as the boats lay aground, and we were beset by
such numbers, armed with long knives, bows, arrows, and spears, we could
not use fire-arms to advantage. The howling of the women, and the
clamour of the men, proved the high excitement to which they had wrought
themselves; and I am still of opinion that, mingled as we were with
them, the first blood we had shed would have been instantly revenged by
the sacrifice of all our lives.
The preceding narrative shows that, bad as the general conduct of the
Esquimaux was, we had some active friends amongst them; and I was
particularly desirous of cultivating a good understanding with them, for
we were as yet ignorant of the state of the ice at sea, and did not know
how long we should have to remain in their neighbourhood. I was
determined, however, now to keep them at bay, and to convince them, if
they made any further attempts to annoy us, that our forbearance had
proceeded from good-will, and not from the want of power to punish them.
We had not gone above a quarter of a mile from Pillage Point before the
boats again took the ground at the distance of one hundred and fifty
yards from the shore; and having ascertained by the men wading in every
direction, that there was no deeper water, we made the boats fast side
by side, and remained in that situation five hours.
Shortly after the boats had been secured, seven or eight of the natives
walked along the beach, and carrying on a conversation with Augustus,
invited him to a conference on shore. I was at first very unwilling to
permit him to go, but the brave little fellow entreated so earnestly
that I would suffer him to land and reprove the Esquimaux for their
conduct, that I at length consented, and the more readily, on seeing
that the young chief who had acted in so friendly a manner was amongst
the number on the beach. By the time that Augustus reached the shore,
the number of Esquimaux amounted to forty, and we watched with great
anxiety the animated conversation he carried on with them. On his return
he told us that its purport was as follows:--"Your conduct," said he,
"has been very bad, and unlike that of all other Esquimaux. Some of you
even stole from me, your countryman, but that I do not mind; I only
regret that you should have treated in this violent manner the white
people who came solely to do you kindness. My tribe were in the same
unhappy state in which you now are, before the white people came to
Churchill, but at present they are supplied with every thing they need,
and you see that I am well clothed; I get all that I want, and am very
comfortable. You cannot expect, after the transactions of this day, that
these people will ever bring goods to your country again, unless you
show your contrition by returning the stolen goods. The white people
love the Esquimaux, and wish to show them the same kindness that they
bestow upon the Indians: do not deceive yourselves, and suppose that
they are afraid of you; I tell you they are not, and that it is entirely
owing to their humanity that many of you were not killed to-day; for
they have all guns, with which they can destroy you either when near or
at a distance. I also have a gun, and can assure you that if a white man
had fallen, I would have been the first to have revenged his death."
The veracity of Augustus was beyond all question with us; such a speech
delivered in a circle of forty armed men, was a remarkable instance of
personal courage. We could perceive, by the shouts of applause with
which they filled the pauses in his harangue, that they assented to his
arguments, and he told us that they had expressed great sorrow for
having given us so much cause of offence, and pleaded, in mitigation of
their conduct, that they had never seen white people before, that every
thing in our possession was so new to them, and so desirable, that they
could not resist the temptation of stealing, and begged him to assure us
that they never would do the like again, for they were anxious to be on
terms of friendship with us, that they might partake of the benefits
which his tribe derived from their intercourse with the white people. I
told Augustus to put their sincerity to the test by desiring them to
bring back a large kettle and the tent, which they did, together with
some shoes, having sent for them to the island whither they had been
conveyed. After this act of restitution, Augustus requested to be
permitted to join a dance to which they had invited him, and he was, for
upwards of an hour, engaged in dancing and singing with all his might in
the midst of a company who were all armed with knives, or bows and
arrows. He afterwards told us that he was much delighted on finding that
the words of the song, and the different attitudes of the dances, were
precisely similar to those used in his own country when a friendly
meeting took place with strangers. Augustus now learned from them that
there was a regular ebb and flow of the tide in this bay, and that when
the sun came round to a particular point there would be water enough to
float the boats, if we kept along the western shore. This communication
relieved me from much anxiety, for the water was perfectly fresh, and
from the flood-tide having passed unperceived whilst we were engaged
with the Esquimaux, it appeared to us to have been subsiding for the
preceding twelve hours, which naturally excited doubts of our being able
to effect a passage to the sea in this direction.
The Esquimaux gradually retired as the night advanced; and when there
were only a few remaining, two of our men were sent to a fire which they
had made, to prepare chocolate for the refreshment of the party. Up to
this period we remained seated in the boats, with our muskets in our
hands, and keeping a vigilant look out on Augustus, and the natives
around him. [Sidenote: Saturday, 8th.] As they had foretold, the water
began to flow about midnight, and by half past one in the morning of the
8th it was sufficiently deep to allow of our dragging the boats forward
to a part where they floated. We pulled along the western shore about
six miles, till the appearance of the sky bespoke the immediate approach
of a gale; and we had scarcely landed before it came on with violence,
and attended with so much swell as to compel us to unload the boats and
drag them up on the beach.
The whole party having been exhausted by the labour and anxiety of the
preceding twenty-four hours, two men were appointed to keep watch, and
the rest slept until eleven o'clock in the morning, when we began to
repair the damage which the sails and rigging had sustained from the
attempts made by the Esquimaux to cut away the copper thimbles. We were
thus employed when Lieutenant Back espied, through the haze, the whole
body of the Esquimaux paddling towards us. Uncertain of the purport of
their visit, and not choosing to open a conference with so large a body
in a situation so disadvantageous as our present one, we hastened to
launch the boats through the surf, and load them with our utmost speed;
conceiving that when once fairly afloat, we could keep any number at
bay. We had scarcely pulled into deep water before some of the kaiyacks
had arrived within speaking distance, and the man in the headmost one,
holding out a kettle, called aloud that he wished to return it, and that
the oomiak which was some distance behind, contained the things that had
been stolen from us, which they were desirous of restoring, and
receiving in return any present that we might be disposed to give. I did
not deem it prudent, however, for the sake of the few things in their
possession which we required, to hazard their whole party collecting
around us, and, therefore, desired Augustus to tell them to go back; but
they continued to advance until I fired a ball ahead of the leading
canoe, which had the desired effect--the whole party veering round,
except four, who followed us for a little way, and then went back to
join their companions.
I have been minute in my details of our proceedings with these
Esquimaux, for the purpose of elucidating the character of the people we
had to deal with; and I feel that the account would be incomplete
without the mention, in this place, of some communications made to us in
the month of August following, which fully explained the motives of
their conduct. We learned that up to the time that the kaiyack was
upset, the Esquimaux were actuated by the most friendly feelings towards
us, but that the fellow whom we had treated so kindly after the
accident, discovering what the boats contained, proposed to the younger
men to pillage them. This suggestion was buzzed about, and led to the
conference which the old men held together when I desired them to go
away, in which the robbery was decided upon, and a pretty general wish
was expressed that it should be attended with the total massacre of our
party. Providentially a few suggested the impropriety of including
Augustus; and for a reason which could scarcely have been imagined. "If
we kill him," said they, "no more white people will visit our lands, and
we shall lose the opportunity of getting a supply of their valuable
goods; but if we spare him, he can be sent back with a story which we
shall invent to induce another party of white people to come among us."
This argument prevailed at the time; but after the interviews with
Augustus at the dance, they retired to their island, where they were so
much inflamed by the sight of the valuable articles which they had
obtained, that they all, without exception, regretted that they had
allowed us to escape. While in this frame of mind the smoke of our fire
being discovered, a consultation was immediately held, and a very artful
plan laid for the destruction of the party, including Augustus, whom
they conceived to be so firmly attached to us that it was in vain to
attempt to win him to their cause. They expected to find us on shore;
but to provide against the boats getting away if we should have
embarked, they caused some kettles to be fastened conspicuously to the
leading kaiyack, in order to induce us to stop. The kaiyacks were then
to be placed in such a position as to hamper the boats, and their owners
were to keep us in play until the whole party had come up, when the
attack was to commence. Through the blessing of Providence, their scheme
was frustrated.
But to resume the narrative of the voyage. The breeze became moderate
and fair; the sails were set, and we passed along the coast in a W.N.W.
direction, until eleven in the evening, when we halted on a low island,
covered with drift wood, to repair the sails, and to put the boats in
proper order for a sea voyage. [Sidenote: Sunday, 9th.] The continuance
and increase of the favourable wind urged us to make all possible
despatch, and at three in the morning of the 9th again embarking, we
kept in three fathoms water at the distance of two miles from the land.
After sailing twelve miles, our progress was completely stopped by the
ice adhering to the shore, and stretching beyond the limits of our view
to seaward. We could not effect a landing until we had gone back some
miles, as we had passed a sheet of ice which was fast to the shore; but
at length a convenient spot being found, the boats were hauled up on the
beach. We quickly ascended to the top of the bank to look around, and
from thence had the mortification to perceive that we had just arrived
in time to witness the first rupture of the ice. The only lane of water
in the direction of our course was that from which we had been forced to
retreat: in every other part the sea appeared as firmly frozen as in
winter; and even close to our encampment the masses of ice were piled up
to the height of thirty feet. Discouraging as was this prospect, we had
the consolation to know that our store of provision was sufficiently
ample to allow of a few days' detention.
The coast in this part consists of black earth, unmixed with stones of
any kind, and its general elevation is from sixty to eighty feet, though
in some places it swells into hills of two hundred and fifty feet. A
level plain, abounding in small lakes, extends from the top of these
banks to the base of a line of hills which lie in front of the Rocky
Mountains. The plain was clothed with grass and plants, then in flower,
specimens of which were collected. We recognised in the nearest range of
the Rocky Mountains, which I have named after my much-esteemed companion
Dr. Richardson, the Fitton and the Cupola Mountains, which we had seen
from Garry Island at the distance of sixty miles. Few patches of snow
were visible on any part of the range.
Having obtained observations for longitude and variation, we retired to
bed about eight A.M., but had only just fallen asleep when we were
roused by the men on guard calling out that a party of Esquimaux were
close to the tents; and, on going out, we found the whole of our party
under arms. Three Esquimaux had come upon us unawares, and, in terror at
seeing so many strangers, they were on the point of discharging their
arrows, when Augustus's voice arrested them, and by explaining the
purpose of our arrival, soon calmed their fears. Lieutenant Back and I
having made each of them a present, and received in return some arrows,
a very amicable conference followed, which was managed by Augustus with
equal tact and judgment. It was gratifying to observe our visitors
jumping for joy as he pointed out the advantages to be derived from an
intercourse with the white people, to whom they were now introduced for
the first time. We found that they belonged to a party whose tents were
pitched about two miles from us; and as they were very desirous that
their friends might also enjoy the gratification of seeing us, they
begged that Augustus would return with them to convey the invitation;
which request was granted at his desire.
Before their departure, marks being set up on the beach one hundred and
fifty yards in front of the tent, and twice that distance from the
boats, they were informed that this was the nearest approach which any
of their party would be permitted to make; and that at this boundary
only would gifts be made, and barter carried on. Augustus was likewise
desired to explain to them the destructive power of our guns, and to
assure them that every person would be shot who should pass the
prescribed limit. This plan was adopted in all succeeding interviews
with the Esquimaux. After five hours' absence Augustus returned,
accompanied by twenty men and two elderly women, who halted at the
boundary. They had come without bows or arrows, by the desire of
Augustus, and, following his instruction, each gave Lieutenant Back and
myself a hearty shake of the hand. We made presents to every one, of
beads, fish-hooks, awls, and trinkets; and that they might have entire
confidence in the whole party, our men were furnished with beads to
present to them. The men were directed to advance singly, and in such a
manner as to prevent the Esquimaux from counting our number, unless they
paid the greatest attention, which they were not likely to do while
their minds were occupied by a succession of novelties.
Our visitors were soon quite at ease, and we were preparing to question
them respecting the coast, and the time of removal of the ice, when
Augustus begged that he might put on his gayest dress, and his medals,
before the conference began. This was the work of a few seconds; but
when he returned, surprise and delight at his altered appearance and
numerous ornaments so engaged their minds, that their attention could
not be drawn to any other subject for the next half hour. "Ah," said an
old man, taking up his medals, "these must have been made by such people
as you have been describing, for none that we have seen could do any
thing like it;" then taking hold of his coat, he asked "what kind of
animal do these skins which you and the chiefs wear belong to? we have
none such in our country." The anchor buttons also excited their
admiration. At length we managed to gain their attention, and were
informed that, as soon as the wind should blow strong from the land, the
ice might be expected to remove from the shore, so as to open a passage
for boats, and that it would remain in the offing until the reappearance
of the stars. "Further to the westward," they continued, "the ice often
adheres to the land throughout the summer; and when it does break away,
it is carried but a short distance to seaward, and is brought back
whenever a strong wind blows on the coast. If there be any channels in
these parts, they are unsafe for boats, as the ice is continually
tossing about." "We wonder, therefore," they said, "that you are not
provided with sledges and dogs, as our men are, to travel along the
land, when these interruptions occur." They concluded by warning us not
to stay to the westward after the stars could be seen, because the
winds would then blow strong from the sea, and pack the ice on the
shore. On further inquiry we learned that this party is usually
employed, during the summer, in catching whales and seals, in the
vicinity of the Mackenzie, and that they seldom travel to the westward
beyond a few days' journey. We were, therefore, not much distressed by
intelligence which we supposed might have originated in exaggerated
accounts received from others. In the evening Augustus returned with
them to their tents, and two of the men undertook to fetch a specimen of
the rock from Mount Fitton, which was distant about twenty miles. The
following observations were obtained:--Latitude 69 degrees 1 minute 24
seconds N.; longitude 137 degrees 35 minutes W.; variation 46 degrees 41
minutes E.; dip 82 degrees 22 minutes.
The party assembled at divine service in the evening. The wind blew in
violent squalls during the night, which brought such a heavy swell upon
the ice, that the larger masses near the encampment were broken before
the morning of the 10th, but there was no change in the main body.
[Sidenote: Monday, 10th.] The Esquimaux revisited us in the morning,
with their women and children; the party consisted of forty-eight
persons. They seated themselves as before, in a semicircle, the men
being in front, and the women behind. Presents were made to those who
had not before received any; and we afterwards purchased several pairs
of seal-skin boots, a few pieces of dressed seal-skin, and some
deer-skin cut and twisted, to be used as cords. Beads, pins, needles,
and ornamental articles, were most in request by the women, to whom the
goods principally belonged, but the men were eager to get any thing that
was made of iron. They were supplied with hatchets, files, ice chisels,
fire-steels, Indian awls, and fish-hooks. They were very anxious to
procure knives, but as each was in possession of one, I reserved the few
which we had for another occasion. The quarter from whence these knives
were obtained, will appear in a subsequent part of the narrative. It was
amusing to see the purposes to which they applied the different articles
given to them; some of the men danced about with a large cod-fish hook
dangling from the nose, others stuck an awl through the same part, and
the women immediately decorated their dresses with the ear-rings,
thimbles, or whatever trinkets they received. There was in the party a
great proportion of elderly persons, who appeared in excellent health,
and were very active. The men were stout and robust, and taller than
Augustus, or than those seen on the east coast by Captain Parry. Their
cheek-bones were less projecting than the representations given of the
Esquimaux on the eastern coast, but they had the small eye, and broad
nose, which ever distinguish that people. Except the young persons, the
whole party were afflicted with sore eyes, arising from exposure to the
glare of ice and snow, and two of the old men were nearly blind. They
wore the hair on the upper lip and chin; the latter, as well as that on
their head, being permitted to grow long, though in some cases a
circular spot on the crown of the head was cut bare, like the tonsure of
the Roman catholic clergy. Every man had pieces of bone or shells thrust
through the septum of his nose; and holes were pierced on each side of
the under lip, in which were placed circular pieces of ivory, with a
large blue bead in the centre, similar to those represented in the
drawings of the natives on the N.W. coast of America, in Kotzebue's
Voyage. These ornaments were so much valued, that they declined selling
them; and when not rich enough to procure beads or ivory, stones and
pieces of bone were substituted. These perforations are made at the age
of puberty; and one of the party, who appeared to be about fourteen
years old, was pointed out, with delight, by his parents, as having to
undergo the operation in the following year. He was a good-looking boy,
and we could not fancy his countenance would be much improved by the
insertion of the bones or stones, which have the effect of depressing
the under lip, and keeping the mouth open.
Their dress consisted of a jacket of rein-deer skin, with a skirt behind
and before, and a small hood; breeches of the same material, and boots
of seal-skin. Their weapons for the chase were bows and arrows, very
neatly made; the latter being headed with bone or iron; and for fishing,
spears tipped with bone. They also catch fish with nets and lines. All
were armed with knives, which they either keep in their hand, or thrust
up the sleeve of their shirt. They had received from the Loucheux
Indians some account of the destructive effects of guns. The dress of
the women differed from that of the men only in their wearing wide
trowsers, and in the size of their hoods, which do not fit close to the
head, but are made large, for the purpose of receiving their children.
These are ornamented with stripes of different coloured skins, and round
the top is fastened a band of wolf's hair, made to stand erect. Their
own black hair is very tastefully turned up from behind to the top of
the head, and tied by strings of white and blue beads, or cords of white
deer-skin. It is divided in front, so as to form on each side a thick
tail, to which are appended strings of beads that reach to the waist.
The women were from four feet and a half to four and three quarters
high, and generally fat. Some of the younger females, and the children,
were pretty.
It would appear that the walrus does not visit this part of the coast,
as none of these people recognised a sketch of one, which Lieutenant
Back drew; but they at once knew the seal and rein-deer. We learned that
the polar bear is seldom seen, and only in the autumn; and likewise that
there are very few of the brown bears, which we frequently saw on the
coast eastward of the Coppermine River. We had already seen a few white
whales, and we understood that they would resort to this part of the
coast in greater numbers with the following moon.
The habits of these people were similar, in every respect, to those of
the tribes described by Captain Parry, and their dialect differed so
little from that used by Augustus, that he had no difficulty in
understanding them. He was, therefore, able to give them full
particulars relative to the attack made by the other party, and they
expressed themselves much hurt at their treacherous conduct. "Those are
bad men," they said, "and never fail either to quarrel with us, or steal
from us, when we meet. They come, every spring, from the eastern side of
the Mackenzie, to fish at the place where you saw them, and return as
soon as the ice opens. They are distinguished from us, who live to the
westward of the river, by the men being tattoed across the face. Among
our tribes the women only are tattoed;" having five or six blue lines
drawn perpendicular from the under lip to the chin. The speaker added,
"If you are obliged to return by this way, before these people remove,
we, with a reinforcement of young men, will be in the vicinity, and will
willingly accompany you to assist in repelling any attack." Augustus
returned with the Esquimaux to their tents, as there was not the least
prospect of our getting forward, though the ice was somewhat broken.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 11th.] A strong breeze from the westward during the
night, contributed, with the swell, to the further reduction of the ice,
in front of the encampment; and on the morning of the 11th, the wind
changed to the eastward, and removed the pieces a little way off shore,
though they were tossing too violently for the boats to proceed. The
swell having subsided in the afternoon, we embarked; but at the end of a
mile and a half were forced to land again, from the ice being fixed to
the shore; and as the wind had now become strong, and was driving the
loose pieces on the land, the boats were unloaded and landed on the
beach. From the summit of an adjoining hill we perceived an unbroken
field of ice to the west, and, consequently, a barrier to our progress.
We encamped on the spot which our Esquimaux friends had left in the
morning, to remove in their oomiaks and kaiyacks towards the Mackenzie,
where they could set their fishing nets, and catch whales and seals. One
of them showed his honesty, by returning some arrows, and a piece of a
pemmican bag, that we had left at our last resting-place. The men also
joined us here with specimens of rock from Mount Fitton.
The Esquimaux winter residences at this spot were constructed of drift
timber, with the roots of the trees upwards, and contained from one to
three small apartments, beside a cellar for their stores. There were
generally two entrances, north and south, so low as to make it necessary
to crawl through them. The only aperture was a hole at the top for the
smoke, which, as well as the doorways, could be filled up with a block
of snow at pleasure. When covered with snow, and with lamps of fire
burning within, these habitations must be extremely warm, though to our
ideas rather comfortless. Lofty stages were erected near them for the
purpose of receiving their canoes, and bulky articles. A north-east gale
came on in the evening, and rolled such a heavy surf on the beach, that
twice, during the night, we were obliged to drag the boats and cargoes
higher up.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 12th.] About three the next morning a heavy rain
commenced, and continued, without intermission, through the day; at
which we were delighted, however comfortless it made our situation,
because we saw the ice gradually loosening from the land under its
effects. We found the keeping a tide-pole fixed in the loose gravel
beach impracticable here, as well as at the last resting-place, on
account of the swell. It appeared to be high water this morning at half
past one A.M., and that the rise of tide was about two feet. I need
hardly observe that we had the sun constantly above the horizon, were it
not for the purpose of mentioning the amusing mistakes which the men
made as to the hour. In fact, when not employed, a question as to the
time of day never failed to puzzle them, except about midnight, when the
sun was near the northern horizon.
Lieutenant Back missing the protractor which he used for laying down his
bearings on the map, Augustus set off in the rain early this forenoon to
recover it from an Esquimaux woman, whom he had seen pick it up. The
rain ceased in the afternoon, the wind gradually abated, and by eight in
the evening it was calm. A south wind followed, which opened a passage
for the boat, but Augustus was not in sight. [Sidenote: Thursday, 13th.]
At midnight we became greatly alarmed for his safety, having now found
that he had taken his gun, which we supposed the natives might have
endeavoured to wrest from him, and we were on the point of despatching a
party in search of him, when he arrived at four in the morning of the
13th, much fatigued, accompanied by three of the natives. His journey
had been lengthened by the Esquimaux having gone farther to the eastward
than he had expected, but he had recovered the protractor which had been
kept in their ignorance of its utility to us. His companions brought
five white fish, and some specimens of crystal, with other stones, from
the mountains, which we purchased, and further rewarded them for their
kindness in not allowing Augustus to return alone.
The boats were immediately launched, and having pulled a short distance
from the land, we set the sails, our course being directed to the outer
point in view, to avoid the sinuosities of the coast. We passed a wide,
though not deep bay, whose points were named after my friends Captains
Sabine and P.P. King; and we were drawing near the next projection, when
a compact body of ice was discovered, which was joined to the land
ahead. At the same time a dense fog came on, that confined our view to a
few yards; it was accompanied by a gale from the land, and heavy rain.
We had still hopes of getting round the point, and approached the shore
in that expectation, but found the ice so closely packed that we could
neither advance nor effect a landing. We, therefore, pulled to seaward,
and turned the boat's head to the eastward, to trace the outer border of
the ice. In this situation we were exposed to great danger from the
sudden change of wind to S.E., which raised a heavy swell, and brought
down upon us masses of ice of a size that, tossed as they were by the
waves, would have injured a ship. We could only catch occasional
glimpses of the land through the fog, and were kept in the most anxious
suspense, pulling in and out between the floating masses of ice, for
five hours, before we could get near the shore. We landed a little to
the west of Point Sabine, and only found sufficient space for the boats
and tents between the bank and the water. The rain ceased for a short
time in the evening, and during this interval, we perceived, from the
top of the bank, that the whole space between us and the distant point,
as well as the channel by which we had advanced to the westward, were
now completely blocked; so that we had good reason to congratulate
ourselves on having reached the shore in safety.