Commence Return to the Mackenzie--Delayed again at Foggy Island--Ice
packed on the Reefs near Beaufort Bay, and on the Coast about Clarence
River--Pass the Channels near Herschel Island in a Gale and Fog--A
sudden Gale--Escape an Attack which the Mountain Indians meditated--Enter
the Mackenzie--Peel River--Arrival at Fort Franklin.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 16th.] The period had now arrived when it was
incumbent on me to consider, whether the prospect of our attaining the
object of the voyage was sufficiently encouraging to warrant the
exposure of the party to daily increasing risk, by continuing on. We
were now only half way from the Mackenzie River to Icy Cape; and the
chance of reaching the latter, depended on the nature of the coast that
was yet unexplored, and the portion of the summer which yet remained for
our operations.
I knew, from the descriptions of Cook and Burney, that the shore about
Icy Cape resembled that we had already passed, in being flat, and
difficult of approach; while the general trending of the coast from the
Mackenzie to the west-north-west, nearly in the direction of Icy Cape,
combined with the information we had collected from the Esquimaux, led
me to conclude that no material change would be found in the
intermediate portion.
The preceding narrative shows the difficulties of navigating such a
coast, even during the finest part of the summer; if, indeed, any
portion of a season which had been marked by a constant succession of
fogs and gales could be called fine. No opportunity of advancing had
been let slip, after the time of our arrival in the Arctic Sea; and the
unwearied zeal and exertion of the crews had been required, for an
entire month, to explore the ten degrees of longitude between Herschel
Island and our present situation, I had, therefore, no reason to suppose
that the ten remaining degrees could be navigated in much less time. The
ice, it is true, was more broken up, and the sea around our present
encampment was clear; but we had lately seen how readily the drift ice
was packed upon the shoals by every breeze of wind blowing towards the
land. The summer, bad as it had been, was now nearly at an end, and on
this point I had the experience of the former voyage for a guide. At
Point Turn-again, two degrees to the south of our present situation,
the comparatively warm summer of 1821 was terminated on the 17th of
August, by severe storms of wind and snow; and in the space of a
fortnight afterwards, winter set in with all its severity. Last year,
too, on the 18th and following days of the same month, we had a heavy
gale at the mouth of the Mackenzie; and appearances did not indicate
that the present season would prove more favourable. The mean
temperature of the atmosphere had decreased rapidly since the sun had
begun to sink below the horizon, and the thermometer had not lately
shown a higher temperature than 37 degrees. Ice, of considerable
thickness, formed in the night, and the number of the flocks of geese
which were hourly seen pursuing their course to the westward, showed
that their autumnal flight had commenced.
While a hope remained of reaching Behring Straits, I looked upon the
hazard to which we had, on several occasions, been exposed, of shipwreck
on the flats, or on the ice, as inseparable from a voyage of the nature
of that which we had undertaken; and if such an accident had occurred, I
should have hoped, with a sufficient portion of the summer before me, to
conduct my party in safety back to the Mackenzie. But the loss of the
boats when we should have been far advanced, and at the end of the
season, would have been fatal. The deer hasten from the coast as soon as
the snow falls; no Esquimaux had been lately seen, nor any
winter-houses, to denote that this part of the coast was much
frequented; and if we did meet them under adverse circumstances, we
could not, with safety, trust to their assistance for a supply of
provision; nor do I believe that, if willing, even they would have been
able to support our party for any length of time.
Till our tedious detention at Foggy Island, we had had no doubt of
ultimate success; and it was with no ordinary pain that I could now
bring myself even to think of relinquishing the great object of my
ambition, and of disappointing the flattering confidence that had been
reposed in my exertions. But I had higher duties to perform than the
gratification of my own feelings; and a mature consideration of all the
above matters forced me to the conclusion, that we had reached that
point beyond which perseverance would be rashness, and our best efforts
must be fruitless. In order to put the reader completely in possession
of the motives which would have influenced me, had I been entirely a
free agent, I have mentioned them without allusion to the clause in my
instructions which directed me to commence my return on the 15th or 20th
of August, "if, in consequence of slow progress, or other unforeseen
accident, it should remain doubtful whether we should be able to reach
Kotzebue's Inlet the same season."
In the evening I communicated my determination to the whole party; they
received it with the good feeling that had marked their conduct
throughout the voyage, and they assured me of their cheerful
acquiescence in any order I should give. The readiness with which they
would have prosecuted the voyage, had it been advisable to do so, was
the more creditable, because many of them had their legs swelled and
inflamed from continually wading in ice-cold water while launching the
boats, not only when we accidentally ran on shore, but every time that
it was requisite to embark, or to land upon this shallow coast. Nor were
these symptoms to be overlooked in coming to a determination; for though
no one who knows the resolute disposition of British sailors can be
surprised at their more than readiness to proceed, I felt that it was my
business to judge of their capability of so doing, and not to allow
myself to be seduced by their ardour, however honourable to them, and
cheering to me.
Compelled as I was to come to the determination of returning, it is a
great satisfaction to me to know, as I now do, that the reasons which
induced me to take this step were well-founded. This will appear by the
following extract from Captain Beechey's official account of his
proceedings in advancing eastward from Icy Cape, with which I have been
favoured.
"Mr. Elson, (the master,) after quitting the ship off Icy Cape, on the
18th August, had proceeded along the coast without interruption, until
the 22nd of the month, when he arrived off a very low sandy spit, beyond
which, to the eastward, the coast formed a bay, with a more easterly
trending than that on the west side; but it was so low that it could not
be traced far, and became blended with the ice before it reached the
horizon. It was found impossible to proceed round the spit, in
consequence of the ice being grounded upon it, and extending to the
horizon in every direction, except that by which the boat had advanced,
and was so compact that no openings were seen in any part of it. This
point, which is the most northern part of the continent yet known, lies
in latitude, by meridian altitude of the sun, 71 degrees 23 minutes 39
seconds N.; and longitude, by several sets of lunar distances, both
observed on an iceberg, 156 degrees 21 minutes W.; and is situated one
hundred and twenty miles beyond Icy Cape. Between these two stations,
and, indeed, to the southward of the latter, the coast is very flat,
abounding in lakes and rivers, which are too shallow to be entered by
anything but a baidar. The greater part of the coast is thickly
inhabited by Esquimaux, who have their winter-habitations close to the
beach.
"The barge had not been off this point sufficiently long to complete the
necessary observations, when the same westerly wind, which had induced
me to proceed round Cape Lisburn, brought the ice down upon the coast,
and left the boat no retreat. It at the same time occasioned a current
along shore to the northward, at the rate of three and four miles per
hour. The body of ice took the ground in six and seven fathoms water,
but pieces of a lighter draft filled up the space between it and the
shore, and, hurried along by the impetuosity of the current, drove the
barge ashore, but fortunately without staving her. By the exertions of
her officers and crew she was extricated from this perilous situation,
and attempts were made to track her along the land wherever openings
occurred, in execution of which the greatest fatigue was endured by all
her crew. At length all efforts proving ineffectual, and the spaces
between the ice and the shore becoming frozen over, it was proposed to
abandon the boat, and the crew to make their way along the coast to
Kotzebue Sound, before the season should be too far advanced.
Preparations were accordingly made; and that the boat might not be
irrevocably lost to the ship, it was determined to get her into one of
the lakes, and there sink her, that the natives might not break her up,
and from which she might be extricated the following summer, should the
ship return. During this period of their difficulties they received much
assistance from the natives, who, for a little tobacco, put their hands
to the tow-rope. Their conduct had, in the first instance, been
suspicious; but in the time of their greatest distress, they were well
disposed, bringing venison, seal's flesh, oil, &c., and offered up a
prayer that the wind would blow off the shore, and liberate the boat
from her critical situation. Before the necessary arrangements were made
respecting the barge, appearances took a more favourable turn; the ice
began to move off shore, and after much tracking, &c., the boat was got
clear, and made the best of her way toward the sound; but off Cape
Lisburn she met with a gale of wind, which blew in eddies so violently,
that it is said the spray was carried up to the tops of the mountains;
and the boat, during this trial, behaved so well, that not a moment's
anxiety for her safety was entertained. I must not close the account
without expressing my warm approbation of the conduct of Mr. Elson."
The barge rejoined Captain Beechey on the 10th September, at Chamisso
Island, the Blossom having gone thither to wood and water, and being
further forced to quit the coast to the northward, in consequence of
strong westerly winds.
Could I have known, or by possibility imagined, that a party from the
Blossom had been at the distance of only one hundred and sixty miles
from me, no difficulties, dangers, or discouraging circumstances, should
have prevailed on me to return; but taking into account the uncertainty
of all voyages in a sea obstructed by ice, I had no right to expect that
the Blossom had advanced beyond Kotzebue Inlet, or that any party from
her had doubled Icy Cape. It is useless now to speculate on the probable
result of a proceeding which did not take place; but I may observe,
that, had we gone forward as soon as the weather permitted, namely, on
the 18th, it is scarcely possible that any change of circumstances could
have enabled us to overtake the Blossom's barge.[3]
[Sidenote: Thursday, 17th.] The wind changed to N.E. after midnight, the
squalls were more violent, and in the morning of the 17th such a surf
was beating on the borders of the reef, that the boats could not be
launched. The fog disappeared before the gale about eleven, and during
the afternoon we enjoyed the clearest atmosphere that we had witnessed
since our departure from Mount Conybeare. This was the first opportunity
there had been, for the seven preceding days, of making astronomical
observations, and we gladly took advantage of it, to observe the
latitude, 70 degrees 26 minutes N.; longitude 148 degrees 52 minutes W.;
and variation 41 degrees 20 minutes E. We had likewise the gratification
of being able to trace the land round Gwydyr Bay, to its outer point,
bearing S. 79 W. ten miles, which I have named after my excellent
companion Lieutenant Back, and of seeing a still more westerly hummock,
bearing S. 84 W., about fifteen miles, that has been distinguished by
the name of my friend Captain Beechey; at which point, in latitude 70
degrees 24 minutes N., longitude 149 degrees 37 minutes W., our
discoveries terminated. The fog returned at sunset, and as the wind was
piercingly cold, and we had neither fire nor room for exercise, we crept
between the blankets, as the only means of keeping ourselves warm.
[Sidenote: Friday, 18th.] The gale having considerably abated, and the
weather being clear, we quitted Return Reef on the morning of the 18th,
and began to retrace our way towards the Mackenzie. As the waves were
still very high to seaward, we attempted to proceed inside of the reefs,
but as the boats were constantly taking the ground, we availed ourselves
of the first channel that was sufficiently deep to pull on the outside
of them. The swell being too great there for the use of the oars, the
sails were set double reefed, and the boats beat to the eastward against
the wind, between the drift ice and the shallow water.
A gale rose after noon from N.E. by N., which enabled us to shape a
course for Foggy Island, where we arrived at three P.M., just at a time
when the violence of the squalls, and the increased height of the swell,
would have rendered further proceeding very hazardous. We now enjoyed
the comforts of a good fire and a warm meal, which we had not had since
the evening of the 16th. The men were afterwards employed in erecting a
square pile of drift timber, on the highest part of the island fronting
the sea, on which a red cornet flag was left flying, and underneath it
was deposited, in a tin case, a letter for Captain Parry, containing an
account of our proceedings; also a silver medal and a halfpenny: and in
order that government might have some chance of hearing of our
proceedings, should any accident subsequently befal the party, there was
also deposited an unsealed letter, wrapped in bark, addressed to the
Russian Fur Traders, in the expectation that the Esquimaux might
probably convey it to their Establishment. An ice-chisel, a knife, a
file, and a hatchet, were hung up on the pile, for the Esquimaux. On
digging to erect these posts, the ground was found frozen at the depth
of sixteen inches; and the thermometer, during the day, seldom rose
above 37 degrees. This evening the temperature was 33 degrees.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 19th.] We were vexatiously detained the 19th, and
following day, by the continuance of the gale, and a thick fog; during
which time many large flocks of geese were observed passing away to the
westward. The tides were now much higher than during our first visit.
[Sidenote: Monday, 21st.] The breeze was moderate on the morning of the
21st, yet we were prevented from embarking until ten o'clock, by the
return of the fog. We then hastened to escape from this ill-omened
island. The boats were pulled to seaward, so as to gain a sufficient
offing for them to pass on the outside of the shallow water; and by the
aid of the oars and sails we made good progress, and encamped within
sight of Flaxman Island. A black whale, a seal of the largest kind, and
numerous flocks of geese were seen in the course of this day. Several
stars were visible after ten P.M. [Sidenote: Tuesday, 22nd.] Showers of
snow fell during the night, but the morning of the 22nd was calm and
clear. We embarked at daylight, and in the course of three hours arrived
abreast of the east end of Flaxman Island. The ice had broken from the
northern shore during our absence, and was now lying about a mile from
the land, apparently aground on reefs, as we had observed it to be along
the outer border of the one at the west end of the island. The water was
much deeper between Flaxman Island and the main than when we passed in
the early part of August. Eastward of Point Brownlow there was an open
channel of three or four miles wide. And by keeping close to the borders
of the drift ice we avoided the shallows at the mouth of the Canning
River, and arrived at Boulder Island about noon. Here we found an
Esquimaux grave, containing three bodies, covered with drift timber, and
by their side there were placed the canoes, arrows, and fishing
implements of the deceased. Not being able to procure fresh water here,
we set forward to cross Camden Bay, touched at one of the points to fill
the water-casks, and reached Barter Island after dark; the crews much
fatigued, having been pulling for nineteen hours. We regretted to find
the Esquimaux had visited this spot during our absence, and carried away
the gun and ammunition which had been left by mistake at the encampment
on the 4th of August, because we were not only apprehensive that some
accident might have occurred in the attempt to discharge the gun, but
were desirous to prevent the introduction of fire-arms among these
people. [Sidenote: Wednesday, 23rd.] Being now near the point of the
coast at which we had seen a considerable number of the natives, we
remained at the encampment until ten o'clock on the morning of the 23d,
to clean the guns and issue a fresh supply of ammunition to the party.
The day was calm and cloudless; the whole range of the Romanzoff
Mountains was in sight, and they appeared to be more covered with snow
than when we passed to the westward. A few musquitoes made their
appearance, but they were very feeble. Having landed at Point Manning to
replenish the water-casks, we afterwards pulled throughout the day close
to the edge of the ice, which was still heavy, though loose, and
encamped near Point Griffin. Some large-sized medusae, and several of the
gelatinous substances known to seamen by the name of blubber, were found
on the beach, which accounted for the number of black ducks that had
been seen in the course of the day, as they feed on those substances.
The temperature varied this day from 35 degrees to 46 degrees; and the
thermometer rose to 64 degrees at two P.M., when exposed to the sun's
rays.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 24th.] The morning of the 24th was calm; we set
forward at daylight, and having proceeded a few miles between heavy
floating ice, about half a mile from the shore we met with a large sheet
of bay ice of last night's formation, of sufficient thickness to impede
though not to stop the boats. Having arrived abreast of Point Humphrys,
we steered out to seaward, for the purpose of avoiding the shallows that
extend across Beaufort Bay, intending to direct our course in a line for
Mount Conybeare, which was in sight. We were then exposed to a long
rolling swell, and we soon afterwards perceived that it had driven the
ice upon the reefs at the eastern extremity of the bay, which would have
precluded our retreat to the shore in the event of the wind rising. It
therefore became necessary to penetrate into the pack, and keep by the
side of the reefs; but in doing so, the boats were exposed to no little
danger of being broken in passing through the narrow channels between
the masses of ice which were tossing with the swell, and from which
large pieces frequently fell. At six P.M. we passed our former
encampment on Icy Reef, and afterwards proceeded through an open space
to Demarcation Point, where we encamped, and hauled up the boats to
prevent them from being injured by the surf. We found here two families
of Esquimaux, which belonged to the party that had been to Barter
Island, waiting the return of a man from hunting, in order to follow
their companions to the eastward. They showed much joy at seeing us
again, and remained the greater part of the night talking with Augustus.
The most active young man of the party, not thinking himself
sufficiently smart for the occasion, retired to the oomiak to change his
dress and mouth ornaments, capering about on his return, evidently proud
of his gayer appearance.
[Sidenote: Friday, 25th.] The morning was foggy, but there being little
wind, we launched the boats, and pulled for an hour close to the shore,
when we came to a body of ice so closely packed as scarcely to afford a
passage, and it was with difficulty that we arrived at Clarence River.
There we perceived four tents; near which we had been warned by our
visitors last night not to land, as the party had recently lost their
parents, and it was feared that, in the state of mind in which they then
were, they might be disposed to do us some injury. We pulled near enough
to inquire about the gun, and learned that the person who had it was
farther to the eastward. The difficulties of forcing a passage were not
diminished beyond this place, and we were further impeded in our
advance by new ice formed between the larger masses, which required
additional labour to break through. The fog cleared away at ten; we
halted to breakfast at Backhouse River, and remained whilst Augustus
went in pursuit of two rein-deer, one of which he killed.
Renewing our course, we passed on the outside of the ice until we were
nearly abreast of Mount Conybeare, when the wind came strong from the
eastward, and obliged us to have recourse again to its shelter. This
barrier, however, terminated at the end of five miles, and being then
exposed to the wind and swell, against which the men were unable to
pull, we encamped.
The experience we had now gained of the ice being packed upon this shore
by a wind from the sea, assured us of the correctness of the report
which the Esquimaux had given, and likewise afforded a reason for their
expression of surprise at our being unprovided with sledges, as it was
evident, unless a strong wind blew from the land, that the new ice would
soon unite the pack with the shore, and preclude the possibility of
making the passage in boats, unless by going outside of the ice, which
would be extremely hazardous, from the want of shelter in the event of a
gale springing up. The pieces of ice were generally from ten to fifteen
feet in height, many of them were from twenty to thirty feet: their
length was from twenty to one hundred yards. We saw several white whales
in the open water, and a flock of white geese at the encampment, which
were the first noticed on this coast. The rising of the wind from E.N.E.
this afternoon was accompanied by an increase of temperature from 43
degrees to 53 degrees, and we felt a comfortable sensation of warmth, to
which we had been strangers for the preceding month.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 26th.] We took advantage of a favourable breeze to
embark before daylight on the morning of the 26th; at sunrise it
increased to a gale, and raised a heavy sea. In two hours we ran to the
commencement of the intricate channels leading to Herschel Island, where
the Esquimaux seen at Barter Island were encamped on a reef, and
apparently gazing in astonishment at the speed of our boats. They made
many signs for us to land, which we were desirous of doing had it been
practicable for the surf. That the boats might be perfectly manageable,
we took two reefs in the sails, and shaped the course for Herschel
Island; but scarcely were the sails reset before a fog came on that
hid every mark that could guide us; a heavy swell was rolling at the
time, and to arrive at the island we had to pass through a channel only
about two hundred yards broad. To find this, surrounded as it was by
shoals, in the midst of a dense fog, was a task of considerable anxiety
and danger, and our situation was not rendered more agreeable by being
assailed the whole way with continued shouting from persons to us
invisible; our arrival having been communicated by the Esquimaux who
first descried us, to their companions on the neighbouring reefs. We
effected it, however, and landed in safety, though we did not discover
the island till we were within forty yards of its shore. We had scarcely
landed before the fog dispersed, and discovered to us a solitary tent on
an adjacent point. Three men soon paid us a visit, whom we had not seen
before, and they informed us that nearly the whole of the tribe was now
collected in the vicinity for the purpose of hunting deer, and catching
whales and seals for the winter's consumption. We quitted the island at
ten A.M., and steered directly for Point Kay, to avoid the sinuosities
of the coast, and the frequent interruption of the Esquimaux, whose
tents were observed to be scattered on the beach nearly the whole way to
Babbage River. Three men and some women came off to bring us fish, and
being liberally rewarded, they went away perfectly happy, singing the
praises of the white people. We passed round Point Kay at four P.M.,
with a moderate breeze from W.N.W., and steered for Point King, keeping
about two miles from the land. As the afternoon wore away, gloomy clouds
gathered in the north-west; and at six a violent squall came from that
quarter, attended with snow and sleet. The gale increased with rapidity:
in less than ten minutes the sea was white with foam, and such waves
were raised as I had never before been exposed to in a boat. The spray
and sea broke over us incessantly, and it was with difficulty that we
could keep free by baling. Our little vessels went through the water
with great velocity under a close-reefed sail, hoisted about three feet
up the main-mast, and proved themselves to be very buoyant. Their small
size, however, and the nature of their construction, necessarily adapted
for the navigation of shallow rivers, unfitting them for withstanding
the sea then running, we were in imminent danger of foundering. I
therefore resolved on making for the shore, as the only means of saving
the party, although I was aware that, in so doing, I incurred the hazard
of staving the boats, there being few places on this part of the coast
where there was sufficient beach under the broken cliffs. The wind
blowing along the land we could not venture on exposing the boat's side
to the sea by hauling directly in, but, edging away with the wind on the
quarter, we most providentially took the ground in a favourable spot.
The boats were instantly filled with the surf, but they were unloaded
and dragged up without having sustained any material damage. Impressed
with a sense of gratitude for the signal deliverance we had experienced
on this and other occasions, we assembled in the evening to offer up
praise and thanksgiving to the Almighty.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 27th.] On the 27th the weather was calm; but as a
heavy surf prevented our embarkation, we took advantage of the delay to
dry our bedding, clothes, and pemmican. The guns were likewise cleaned,
and every thing put in order. There was an Esquimaux party at this spot,
which had witnessed the landing of the boats in the storm with
astonishment, having expected to see every man drowned. Augustus passed
the night at their tents; and having brought the whole party to our
encampment, the women, with much good nature, sewed soles of seal-skins
to the men's mocassins, in order to fit them better for the operation of
tracking, in which they were soon to be employed. These Esquimaux had
recently returned from a visit to the gang that had pillaged the boats
at the mouth of the Mackenzie; and we now learned the intention that had
been entertained of destroying our party, along with the other
particulars that have been already mentioned.
[Sidenote: Monday, 28th.] Our approach to the Mackenzie was marked by
the quantity of drift timber floating about. We passed several families
of the natives, without visiting them, until we perceived one party
taking some fish from their nets, which tempted us to land. The fish
were large _tittameg_ and _inconnu_, and proved remarkably fine. We
again embarked, but having to pull head to the sea, we took in much
water, and were glad to seek shelter on a gravel reef, where three
Esquimaux tents were pitched. The whole party quickly mustered around
us, and we were not a little surprised to find so many inhabitants as
twenty-seven, including women and children, in three tents only; but on
inquiry we found that the number was not greater than usual. Two of the
men were very aged and feeble, the rest were young and active. They
practise jumping, as an amusement, from their youth; and we had an
opportunity of witnessing some of their feats, which displayed much
agility. The women cheerfully repaired our mocassins, and their
industry, as well as the good conduct of the men, were rewarded by some
valuable presents. We were astonished to learn that there had been fog
only a day and a half in this neighbourhood since we passed, but the
wind had been generally strong. Augustus gained some information
respecting the western Esquimaux, and the coast to the westward, which
he did not communicate to me until some days afterwards, otherwise I
should have endeavoured to elicit more satisfactory details. It was to
the following purport:--The western Esquimaux having purchased the furs
from those men that dwell near the Mackenzie, at Barter Island, proceed
to the westward again without delay. A few days journey beyond a part of
the coast which Augustus understood from description to be Return Reef,
the sea is still more shallow than that which we had navigated, and the
water is still, except at certain periods of the year, when it is
agitated like a strong rapid, by the efflux of the waters of a deep
inlet, or strait. The land is visible on both sides from the middle of
this opening; the Esquimaux make for the west side, and on reaching it
relinquish their canoes, and drag their furs overland to the Russian
establishments, which are situated in the interior, where the land is
more elevated than on the coast. The Mountain Indians come down annually
in large parties to this inlet, and warm contests often arise between
them and the Esquimaux. The latter are frequently worsted, from their
inferior numbers, and lose their property, which the Indians bring by
land to the neighbourhood of Herschel Island, to dispose of to the
Esquimaux in that quarter. The direction of the inlet was supposed, by
Augustus, to be about south-west. I am inclined to think that it is the
estuary of a large river, flowing to the west of the Rocky Mountains,
obstructed by sand-banks, like the mouth of the Mackenzie. In the course
of the day three Esquimaux, who had seen our tent from a distance, came
to visit us. One of them was recognised to have been of the party which
attacked us at the mouth of the Mackenzie. He gave Augustus a detailed
account of their schemes on that occasion, which exactly corresponded
with that we had received on the preceding day. He further told us that
the party which had assailed us had certainly removed to the eastward;
but if any of them should have remained, to watch our motions, they
could be avoided by entering the river by a more westerly branch than
the one which we had descended, and offered to guide us thither. This
man was very intelligent, and having carefully examined the boats,
intimated that he would construct an oomiak after the same plan. We
embarked at four in the evening with our new friend for a guide, and in
a short time arrived at the main shore where his tent stood, and where
he asked the party to encamp, as he intended to go no farther. We were
not, however, so disposed; and having filled the casks with fresh water,
and made some presents to the women, we pushed off to take advantage of
the remaining daylight in getting round a reef which projected far
seaward. We could not effect this, and at sunset, not being able to land
on the reef on account of the shallowness of the water, we put back to
within a mile and a half of the Esquimaux tents. Garry Island was seen
soon after sunset; and the aurora borealis appeared in the night for the
first time this season. The temperature of the air varied from 30
degrees to 49 degrees, and that of the sea water was 37 degrees 2
minutes, a quarter of a mile from the shore. [Sidenote: Tuesday, 29th.]
A gale coming on in the night, and continuing till the following
evening, detained us on shore. During our stay we were visited by a
numerous party of Esquimaux, and found it necessary to draw a line round
the tents, which they were not permitted to pass. These people told us
that Dr. Richardson's party had been seen clear of the Mackenzie, and
had given kettles to men in three canoes, after escaping an attempt made
by the Esquimaux to drag the boats on shore. This account, showing that
the propensity to plunder was not confined to the Esquimaux with whom we
had met, excited painful apprehensions for the safety of the eastern
party, if they should find it necessary to return by the Mackenzie,
because we now learned that the natives collect in numbers near its
mouth at the close of summer. In ordinary seasons the weather is mild,
and the winds variable until the ice breaks up, which is usually about
the end of August, when north-west winds, and stormy weather, are
expected. In this season, however, the winds had been so boisterous that
the Esquimaux had seldom been able to venture out to sea, and their
whale fishery had consequently failed. Our visitors left us about two
P.M.; but, shortly afterwards, we heard loud cries, and on looking round
saw two young Esquimaux running in breathless haste to announce that a
large party of Indians had come down from the mountains with the express
purpose of attacking the boats and killing every man of the party. They
desired us to embark instantly, as the only means of escape; for the
Indians, they said, were already at the tents within our view, and when
they left them they were on the point of spreading round us to commence
the onset. They further said, that the Indians, having been provoked by
our trading with the Esquimaux, had been along the coast in search of
us, and that it was only this afternoon they had espied our tents,
which, by the fluttering in the wind, they knew did not belong to the
Esquimaux. On this discovery they had come to the nearest party of
Esquimaux to make known their intention, and to request their aid. They
were met by our two young friends, who were out hunting, but who
returned with them to their tents, and after learning the plans in
agitation, had stolen off to apprize us of our danger. As soon as Spinks
returned, who had gone to shoot, we shoved off; and never were men more
delighted than our two Esquimaux friends seemed to be at our escape; and
especially at that of Augustus, to save whom, they asserted more than
once, was their principal motive in coming to us. While Spinks was out
of sight, they climbed up to the top of an old house to look for him,
with the greatest apparent solicitude, and were the first to discover
him returning. Up to the time of his arrival they kept repeating every
particular respecting the Indians, and pointing out the mode of avoiding
them. It was their intention, they said, to pursue us to the Mackenzie,
but that we should get there before them, because there were two rivers
in the way which the Indians would have great difficulty in crossing,
being unprovided with canoes. They urged us to make all speed, and not
to halt in the night, nor to go to sleep; but, if the crew became tired,
to put up on an island out of gun-shot of the main shore, because the
Indians were armed with guns as well as bows. They instructed Augustus
minutely as to the course we were to steer round the reef, and directed
us to keep along the main shore until we should come to a large opening,
which was the western outlet of the Mackenzie, and had a deep channel.
We rewarded their friendly conduct by a considerable present of iron,
which they received with an indifference that showed them not to have
been actuated by interested motives in making the communications.
Previous to the arrival of these men we had perceived the smoke of a
distant fire, which we had little regarded, supposing it to have been
made by some Esquimaux who were hunting, but which, it seems, was the
fire of the Indians. Having pulled round the reef, and being aided by a
westerly breeze, we soon regained the main shore, and passed the mouth
of the two rivers of which the Esquimaux had spoken. The night beginning
to close in we pulled up to the head of an inlet; when heavy rain and
squalls coming on, we determined to halt. [Sidenote: Wednesday, 30th.]
As soon as the day dawned, which was about half-past two in the morning,
we returned to Shoal Water Bay; and, sailing along the coast for two or
three miles to the eastward, arrived at another opening, in which the
water was fresh, and we did not doubt but it would prove the deep
channel by which we had been instructed to ascend. There was plenty of
water near its mouth, but it gradually shoaled; and, at the distance of
four miles, we ascertained that this promising opening was likewise an
inlet. I now relinquished the search for a more westerly outlet than the
one by which we had descended, and, therefore, steered for Pillage
Point, which soon afterwards came in sight. After dragging the boats
for two hours, over the shoals, we rounded Pillage Point at ten A.M.,
and reached the deep water most opportunely; for, almost at the instant,
a violent north-west gale came on, attended by thunder, lightning, and
torrents of rain. The wind, however, was fair, and brought so much water
into the channel of the river, that we passed, without obstruction, the
shallow parts above Pillage Point. A temporary cessation of the rain at
noon enabled us to land to breakfast; and we afterwards continued to
scud before the gale until sunset, when we encamped. The temperature
fell from 48 degrees to 40 degrees in the gale, and we had several
showers of snow.
During the above run Augustus entertained us with an account, which he
had learned from the two Esquimaux, respecting the Mountain Indians; the
substance was as follows:--Seven men of that tribe had been to Herschel
Island to trade with the Esquimaux, who showed them the different
articles they had received from us, and informed them of our being still
on the coast, and that our return by this route was not improbable. This
intelligence they set off at once to communicate to the rest of their
tribe, who, supposing that we should ruin their trade with the
Esquimaux, resolved on coming down in a body to destroy us; and that
they might travel with expedition, their wives and families were left
behind. They came to the sea coast by the Mountain Indian River,
opposite Herschel Island, and finding that we had not returned, but
supposing it possible that we might pass them there, as they had no
canoes to intercept us, they determined on travelling to the mouth of
the Mackenzie, where they could conveniently subsist by fishing and
hunting until our arrival. They had been informed of the manner in which
we had been robbed by the Esquimaux at that place, and they formed a
similar plan of operations. When our crews were wading and launching the
boats over the flats in Shoal Water Bay, a few of them were to have
offered their assistance, which they imagined would be readily accepted,
as we should probably take them for Indians belonging to the Loucheux
tribe, with whom we were acquainted. While pretending to aid us they
were to have watched an opportunity of staving the boats, so as to
prevent them from floating in the deeper channel, which runs close to
the land near Pillage Point. The rest of the party, on a signal being
given, were then to rush forth from their concealment, and join in the
assault. They were, in pursuance of this plan, travelling towards the
Mackenzie, when they discovered our tents; and it appeared that the two
young men who brought us the intelligence, had been sent as an act of
gratitude by an old Esquimaux, to whom we had given a knife and some
other things, on the preceding day. After hearing the plans of the
Indians, he called the young men aside and said to them, "These white
people have been kind to us, and they are few in number, why should we
suffer them to be killed? You are active young men, run and tell them to
depart instantly." The messengers suggested that we had guns, and could
defend ourselves. "True," said he, "against a small force, but not
against so large a body of Indians as this, who are likewise armed with
guns, and who will crawl under cover of the drift timber, so as to
surround them before they are aware; run, therefore, and tell them not
to lose a moment in getting away, and to be careful to avoid the flats
at the mouth of the river by entering the western channel."
As the goods which the Mountain Indians exchange with the Esquimaux at
Herschel Island, are very unlike those issued from any of the Hudson's
Bay Company's posts, I conclude that they obtain them from the Russians;
but the traders of that nation being prohibited by their government from
supplying guns to any Indians, I am at a loss to account for these
people having them;--perhaps, the prohibition only applies to the
Esquimaux, or the people on the sea coast. That the Mountain Indians
have fire-arms we learned, not only on the present occasion, but in our
first interview with the Esquimaux, at Herschel Island.
The few general remarks which I have to offer, on the subject of a
North-West Passage, will appear in a subsequent part of the narrative;
and here I shall only state, that we traced the coast, westward from the
mouth of the Mackenzie, three hundred and seventy-four miles, without
having found one harbour in which a ship could find shelter.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 31st.] On the 31st, we continued the ascent of the
river, and encamped in the evening within the limit of the spruce fir
trees.
[Sidenote: September 1st.] Favoured by a strong north-west gale, on the
1st of September, we sailed the whole day along the western main shore,
and, generally, within view of the Rocky Mountains. One of the numerous
bends of the river took us within eight miles of part of the mountains,
which appeared to be composed of a yellow stone, and was from eight
hundred to a thousand feet in height. In the course of the day we came
to the most northerly poplars, where the foliage had now assumed the
yellow autumnal hue. [Sidenote: Saturday, 2nd.] The gale continued with
strong squalls on the 2nd, and we advanced rapidly under double-reefed
sails, though the course of the river was very winding. The temperature
of the air varied from 41 degrees to 35 degrees. [Sidenote: Sunday,
3rd.] On the third we had calm weather, and still keeping the western
land aboard, we were led into a river which we had not discovered in our
descent. The course of this river, was, for a time, parallel to our
route, and we took it at first for one of the channels of the Mackenzie;
but, in the afternoon, we saw a mountain to the eastward, and
ascertained that we were to the Southward of Point Separation. We,
therefore, began to descend the river again, and encamped shortly after
sunset. Just after it became dark, voices were heard on the opposite
side of the river, to which we replied, and soon afterwards, three
Indians were observed crossing towards us in canoes. They approached
cautiously, but on being invited to land, they did so, though one of
them was so great a cripple as to require being carried from the canoe
to the fire-side. The alarm these poor people had felt, was soon
dissipated by kind treatment. They were armed with bows and arrows only,
and clothed in hare skins and leather. Their trowsers were similar to
those worn by the lower Loucheux, to which tribe they, probably,
belonged. We could communicate with them only by signs, except by using
a few words of Chipewyan, which one of them appeared to understand. We
collected from them that they knew of Fort Good Hope, but none of them
seemed to have visited it, as they had not a single article of European
manufacture about their persons. They delineated on a stone the course
of the Mackenzie, and of the river we had newly discovered, which
appears to flow from the Rocky Mountains, and to break through the same
ridge of hill that the Mackenzie does at the Narrows. It is probable,
that it was to this river the Loucheux alluded, when they told Sir
Alexander Mackenzie, opposite the present site of Fort Good Hope, that
there was a river which conducted them to the sea in five days. I have
distinguished this river by the name of Peel, in honour of His Majesty's
Secretary of State for the Home Department. It is from a quarter to half
a mile wide, and its banks are clothed with spruce, birch, and poplar
trees, like those of the Mackenzie in the same parallel. [Sidenote:
Monday, 4th.] We set forward at four A.M. on the 4th, with a strong
favourable breeze, and in an hour, passed another river descending from
the Rocky Mountains, and nearly as large as the Peel, into which it
flows. We regained the Mackenzie at noon, and at five P.M. arrived at
Point Separation, where we encamped. Here we found the boat, rope, and
kettle, in the same state in which we had deposited them. The kettle was
a great acquisition to us, because we had suffered much inconvenience in
having only one for cooking, after the Esquimaux had robbed us of the
others. The temperature varied during the day from 29 degrees to 55
degrees, and, in the evening, the sand flies were troublesome.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 5th.] We quitted our encampment at day light on the
5th, and crossed the river to look for a mark which Dr. Richardson was
to have erected, if he returned by the Mackenzie; but not finding any,
we deposited a letter and a bag of pemmican, in case he should come at a
later period, and that his party should be in want of provision. In the
vicinity of the Red River, we met Barbue, the Chief of the Loucheux, and
two or three families, who seemed in a sorry condition from want of
food, the water being too low for fishing. The chief appeared very
anxious to communicate some intelligence, which he evidently considered
important, but we could not understand him. We learned afterwards at the
fort, that it related to the death of a chief by violence on the sea
coast; this had given rise to a rumour of the death of myself, and
afterwards of Dr. Richardson, which occasioned us, for a time, much
anxiety. The weather, on this and several days, was remarkably fine;
berries of various kinds were very abundant on the banks, and quite
ripe. [Sidenote: Thursday, 7th.] By the aid of the tracking line, with
the occasional use of the oars and sails, we proceeded up the river at a
quick rate, and reached Fort Good Hope, at half-past four on the 7th. In
consequence of the above-mentioned rumour, I requested Mr. Bell, the
gentleman in charge of the fort, to despatch two of the Loucheux as
quickly as possible to the eastern mouth of the river, in order to gain
any information the Esquimaux could give regarding Dr. Richardson's
party; and, that the messengers might not be delayed by hunting on the
way, I left a bag of pemmican for their use. We were sorry to learn that
there was some apprehension of a serious quarrel arising between the
upper and lower Loucheux, in consequence of one of Barbue's sons having
killed his wife, a woman of the latter tribe.
[Sidenote: Friday, 8th.] We quitted Fort Good Hope at noon on the 8th,
arrived at the entrance of Bear Lake River on the 16th, and on the 21st
reached Fort Franklin, where we had the happiness of meeting our friends
in safety. [Sidenote: Thursday, 21st.] The eastern detachment had
arrived on the 1st of September, after a most successful voyage; and Dr.
Richardson being anxious to extend his geological researches, as far as
the season would permit, had gone in a canoe to the Great Slave Lake,
having previously sent a report of his proceedings, to meet me at Fort
Good Hope, in case of our being obliged to return by the Mackenzie; but
the bearer of them passed us without being seen. Having read Mr.
Kendall's journal, I drew up a brief account of the proceedings of both
parties for the information of His Majesty's Government, and transmitted
it by canoe, to Slave Lake on the following morning.
The distance travelled in the three months of our absence from Fort
Franklin, amounted to two thousand and forty-eight statute miles, of
which six hundred and ten were through parts not previously discovered.
I cannot close this account of our sea voyage without expressing the
deep obligation I feel to Lieutenant Back for his cordial co-operation,
and for his zealous and unwearied assiduity during its progress. Beside
the daily delineation of the coast in the field book, the service is
indebted to him for numerous drawings of scenery, as well as of the
natives; and for an interesting collection of plants. My warmest thanks
are likewise due to the men of my party, who met every obstacle with an
ardent desire to surmount it, and cheerfully exerted themselves to the
utmost of their power. Their cool, steady conduct is the more
commendable, as the sea navigation was entirely novel to the whole,
except the seamen Duncan and Spinks, and Hallom, the corporal of
Marines. The Canadian voyagers, Felix and Vivier, first saw the ocean on
this occasion.
The following Chapters contain the narrative of the proceedings of Dr.
Richardson in his own words; and I embrace this opportunity of conveying
my sincere thanks to him, to Mr. Kendall, and to their respective crews.
I may be allowed to bear my testimony to the union of caution, talent,
and enterprise in the former, which enabled him to conduct, with
singular success, an arduous service of a kind so foreign from his
profession and ordinary pursuits; and to the science and skill, combined
with activity, of Mr. (now Lieutenant) Kendall, which must heighten the
character he has already obtained for general ability and energy in his
profession. I must not omit to state, that these officers describe the
conduct of their crews to have been excellent.
_ABSTRACT of the Mean Temperature for each Day during the Voyage along
the Sea Coast west of the Mackenzie, and on the return to Bear Lake._
1826. Daily
Date. Mean Wind and Weather. Situation.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
July. degs.
1 52.8 NNW, WNW, moderate, gloomy Fort Good Hope
2 58.3 West, fresh, clear } Mackenzie River,
3 50.3 WNW, fresh, clear } betwn lat. 67 deg.
4 55.8 West, SSW, N, light, gloomy } 28 min., & 60 deg.
5 53.7 SW, NE, moderate, gloomy, foggy } 53 min. N., longitude
6 45.1 NNW, ENE, fresh, moderate, rain } 130-1/2 deg. &
7 41.6 SE, moderate, clear } 136-1/2 deg. W.
8 } Not Mouth of the
} regist'd. Mackenzie.
9 } Thermom. ENE, strong, fog and rain
10 } stolen by } Between the
11 } Esquimaux. } Mackenzie &
12 51.6 EbyN. fresh, gloomy } Herschel Isld.
13 53.3 Variable, fog and rain } lat 68 deg. 53 min. &
14 50.5 Calm, rain, ENE, moderate, clear } 60 deg. 34 min. N.,
15 48.6 Calm, clear, NW, moderate, foggy } long. 136 deg. 19. min
16 47.3 SSE, moderate, snow, fog } & 139 deg. 5 min. W.
17 44.8 NW, North, moderate, hazy Herschel Island.
18 43.6 NW, moderate, clear }
19 43.4 NW, moderate, heavy rain and fog }
20 39.3 NW, fresh, fog }
21 51.3 East, SE, clear }
22 58.5 SE, light, clear } Between Icy Reef &
23 51.6 West, calm, East, clear } Herschel Island,
24 45.6 Calm, variable, clear } latitude 69 deg. 34
25 42.0 West, light, calm, foggy } min. & 69 deg. 44
26 44.3 Calm, NW, fog } min. N., longitude 139
27 41.4 West, NW, moderate, fog } deg. 5 min. and 141
28 43.2 ENE, light, gloomy } deg. 30 min. W.
29 41.6 ENE, strong, misty }
30 40.3 ENE, fresh, moderate, clear }
31 42.7 NE, moderate, clear, fresh and }
----- foggy }
Mean 47.61
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Aug.
1 42.0 NE, gale, foggy } Between Icy Reef &
2 44.6 ENE, strong, moderate, clear } Flaxman's Island, lat.
3 44.1 ENE, moderate, clear } 69 deg. 44 min. & 70
4 40.7 East, moderate, clear } deg. 11 min. N., long.
5 42.6 Calm, WbyN, moderate } 141 deg. 30 min. & 145
6 43.2 Calm, ESE, light, clear } deg. 50 min. W.
7 42.8 ENE, fresh, clear _}
8 42.9 ENE, strong, fog }
9 41.6 NE, strong, fog }
10 39.5 ENE, strong, fog } Foggy Island, lat.
11 41.1 NE, moderate, fog } 70 deg. 16 min. N.
12 41.1 East, moderate, very foggy } longitude 147 deg.
13 41.6 NE, strong, foggy } 38 min. W.
14 41.3 ENE, NE, moderate, foggy }
15 38.1 NE, fresh, hazy }
_ABSTRACT the Mean Temperature for each Day during the Voyage along the
Sea Coast west of the Mackenzie, and on the return to Bear Lake._
1826. Daily
Date. Mean Wind and Weather. Situation.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Aug. degs.
16 35.0 ENE, fresh, foggy } Return Reef, lat.
17 37.4 NE, gale, very foggy } 70 deg. 26 min. N. lg.
18 36.2 NE, strong, clear _} 148 deg. 52 min. W.
19 36.4 NE, strong, foggy } Foggy
20 36.4 NE, fresh, foggy _} Island.
21 35.7 NNE, North, moderate, clear }
22 37.6 North, NE, light, clear } Between Foggy Island &
23 41.0 Calm, clear } the Mouth of the
24 39.4 Calm, clear, foggy in the night } Mackenzie, lat. 70
25 41.2 Calm, fog, NE, light, ESE, strong} deg. 16 min. and 68
26 39.6 WNW, NW, heavy gale, snow, sleet } deg. 53 min. N. lon.
27 39.8 Calm, ESE, light, clear } 147 deg. 38 min. and
28 43.0 SW, strong, clear } 136 deg. 19 min. W.
29 52.5 SSW, heavy gale _}
30 45.6 NW, Heavy gale, rain } Mackenzie
31 42.4 Calm, SW, gloomy } River.
-----
Mean 40.85
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Sept.
1 38.3 NW, gale, snow }
2 38.6 NW, strong, clear }
3 41.1 Calm, moderate, SE, clear }
4 41.3 SE, NW, moderate, clear }
5 45.9 SE, light, clear }
6 51.0 Variable, light, clear }
7 44.8 SE, light, NW, strong }
8 41.0 NW, strong, snow }
9 39.3 East, moderate, clear }
10 45.8 SE, light, clear } Mackenzie
11 45.8 NW, moderate rain } River.
12 37.3 NW, moderate, gloomy }
13 37.2 Calm, SE, light, clear }
14 37.9 ESE, moderate, clear }
15 42.7 Calm, moderate, fresh, gloomy }
16 44.5 Variable, light, gloomy }
17 36.9 Variable, moderate, rain }
18 29.4 NW, fresh, gloomy }
19 24.6 NW, moderate, gloomy }
20 29.2 ESE, fresh, clear }
21 31.1 ENE, fresh, clear Fort Franklin.
-----
Mean 39.22
----------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTE.--The thermometer used in this register, was compared with those
in use at Fort Franklin during ten days after our return, and found to
coincide with them.
FOOTNOTES:
[3] I have recently learned, by letter from Captain Beechey, that the
barge turned back on the 25th of August, having been several days beset
by the ice. He likewise informs me, that the summer of 1827 was so
unfavourable for the navigation of the northern coast of America, that
the Blossom did not reach so high a latitude as in the preceding year;
nor could his boat get so far to the east of Icy Cape, by one hundred
miles. The natives, he says, were numerous, and, in some instances,
ill-disposed.
DR. RICHARDSON'S NARRATIVE OF THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE EASTERN DETACHMENT
OF THE EXPEDITION.
CHAPTER I.
Leave Point Separation and descend the Eastern Channel of the
Mackenzie--Arrive at Sacred Island--Esquimaux Graves--Interview with the
Natives; their thievish disposition--Attempt to gain possession of the
Union--Heavy Gale--Find Shelter in Refuge Cove--Low
Coast--Mirage--Stopped by Ice at Point Toker--Reach the Sea.
[Sidenote: July 4th.] The two parties of which the Expedition was
composed, having spent the evening of the 3rd of July in cheerful
conversation about their future prospects, prepared to separate on the
morning of the 4th. By six o'clock all the boats were stowed; and
Captain Franklin, Lieutenant Back, and their party, had committed
themselves to the stream in the Lion and Reliance; while the Eastern
Detachment, drawn up on the beach, cheered them on their departure with
three hearty huzzas. The voices of our friends were heard in reply until
the current had carried their boats round a projecting point of land,
when we also embarked to proceed on our voyage. Our detachment was
composed of twelve individuals, distributed in two boats, named the
Dolphin and Union.
IN THE DOLPHIN. IN THE UNION.
Dr. Richardson. Mr. Kendall.
Thomas Gillet, _Coxswain_. John M'Leay, _Coxswain_.
John M'Lellan, _Bowman_. George Munroe, _Bowman_.
Shadrach Tysoe, _Marine_. William Money, _Marine_.
Thomas Fuller, _Carpenter_. John M'Duffey.
Ooligbuck, _Esquimaux_. George Harkness.
The instructions we received were, to trace the coast between the
Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers, and to return from the latter overland
to Great Bear Lake. Ice was the only impediment we dreaded as likely to
prove an obstacle to the execution of these orders. We knew that the
direct distance between the two rivers did not amount to five hundred
miles; and, having provisions for upwards of eighty days stowed in the
boats, we were determined not to abandon the enterprize on light
grounds, especially after we had seen the friends that had just parted
from us embark with so much cheerfulness in their more arduous
undertaking.
On leaving Point Separation we pulled, for two hours, against the
current, to regain the entrance of the "Middle Channel," which was first
explored by Mackenzie, on his way to the sea, in 1798, and more
perfectly surveyed by Captain Franklin, on his voyage to Garry's Island,
last autumn. It has a breadth of nearly a mile, and a depth of from
three to five fathoms; though in one place, where there was a ripple,
the sounding lead struck against a flat bed of stone in nine feet water.
Having proceeded about ten miles in this channel, we entered a branch
flowing to the eastward, with the view of tracing the course of the main
land. Mackenzie, on his return from the sea by this route, observed many
trees having their upper branches lopped off by the Esquimaux, and we
saw several such trees in the course of the day. The lands are low and
marshy, and inclose small lakes which are skirted by willows. The
summits of the banks are loaded with drift-timber, showing that they are
all inundated by the spring floods, except a few sandy ridges which
bound the principal channels, and which are clothed with well-grown
white spruce trees. Our voyage amongst these uninteresting flats was
greatly enlivened by the busy flight and cheerful twittering of the
sand-martins, which had scooped out thousands of nests in the banks of
the river, and we witnessed with pleasure their activity in thinning the
ranks of our most tormenting foes the musquitoes. When our precursor,
Sir Alexander Mackenzie, passed through these channels on the 10th of
July, 1789, they were bounded by walls of ice veined with black earth,
but the present season was so much milder, that the surface of the banks
was every where thawed.
An hour before noon we put ashore to cook our breakfast, near a clump of
spruce trees, where several fires had recently been made by a party
which had left many foot-prints on the sand; probably a horde of
Esquimaux, on their return from trading with the Indians at the Narrows.
A thunder storm that obscured the sky, prevented Mr. Kendall from
ascertaining the latitude at noon, which was the hour we chose for
breakfast throughout the voyage, in order to economize time, as it was
necessary to land to obtain the meridian observation of the sun. In the
afternoon we continued to descend the same channel, which has a smooth
and moderately rapid current, and a general depth of two or three
fathoms. At four P.M. we obtained a view of a ridge of land to the
eastward, which we have since learned is named by the natives the
Rein-Deer Hills, and at seven encamped near two conical hills of
limestone, about two hundred feet high, and clothed with trees to their
tops. The length of the day's voyage was forty-two miles. We selected a
sandy bank, covered with willows sixteen feet high, for our encamping
place; and here again we found that a party of Esquimaux had lately
occupied the same spot, the ashes of their fires being still fresh, and
the leaves of the willow poles to which they had attached their nets,
unwithered. Before we retired to bed, the arms were examined, and a
watch was set; a practice which we kept up for the remainder of the
voyage. Much rain fell in the night.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 5th.] On the 5th we embarked at four in the
morning, and soon afterwards, the channel conducting us to the base of
the Rein-Deer Hills, Mr. Kendall and I ascended an eminence, which was
about four hundred feet high. Its summit was thinly coated with gravel,
and its sides were formed of sand and clay, inclosing some beds of
brownish-red sandstone, and of gray-coloured slate-clay. Clumps of trees
grew about half way up, but the top produced only a thin wiry grass. At
eleven A.M. we landed to breakfast, and remained on shore until noon, in
the hope of obtaining an observation for latitude, but the sun was
obscured by clouds. In the afternoon I had an extensive view from the
summit of a hill of flat alluvial lands, divided into islands by
inosculations of the channels of the river, and bounded, at the distance
of about forty miles to the westward, by the Rocky Mountains. As we
advanced to the northward, we perceived the trees to diminish in size,
becoming more scattered, and ascend a shorter way up the sides of the
hills, and they altogether terminated in latitude 68 degrees 40 minutes,
in an even line running across the islands; though one solitary spruce
fir was seen in 68 degrees 53 minutes. Perhaps the lands to the
northward of this abrupt line were too low and wet for the growth of the
white spruce, the tree which attains the highest latitude on this
continent.
We pitched our tents for the night on the site of another Esquimaux
encampment, where a small bit of moose deer's meat was still attached to
a piece of wood at the fire-place; and we saw, from the tracks of the
people and dogs in the sand, that a party had left the river here to
cross the Rein-Deer Hills. From information obtained through the
Sharp-eyed, or Quarreller tribe of Indians, this appears to be one of
the Esquimaux routes to a large piece of brackish water named Esquimaux
Lake, and alluded to by Mackenzie in several parts of his narrative. The
length of our voyage this day was forty-four miles, and our encampment
was opposite to an island named by Captain Franklin after William
Williams, Esq., late governor of Prince Rupert's land. We observed here
an unusually large spruce tree, considering the high latitude in which
it grew; it measured seven feet in circumference, at the height of four
feet from the ground. A hole was dug at the foot of the hill, in sandy
soil, to the depth of three feet without reaching frozen ground.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 6th.] On the 6th, heavy and continued rain delayed
our embarkation until ten o'clock in the forenoon, and the weather,
during the rest of the day, was hazy, with occasional showers of small
rain. Before leaving the encampment, we lopped the branches from a tree,
and suspended to it a small kettle, a hatchet, an ice-chisel, and a few
strings of beads, together with a letter written in hieroglyphics, by
Mr. Kendall, denoting that a party of white people presented these
articles to the Esquimaux as a token of friendship.[4] As we advanced,
we came to the union of several ramifications of the middle channel with
the eastern branch of the river, and the breadth of the latter increased
to two miles; its depth of water being rarely less than three fathoms.
In latitude 69 degrees, the eastern channel of the Mackenzie makes a
turn round the end of the Rein-deer-hills which terminate there, having
previously diminished in height to about two hundred feet. At the
commencement of this turn, there is a small island nearly equal to the
main land in height, and appearing when viewed from the southward, to be
a continuation of it. Its position pointing it out to be the one
described by Mackenzie as possessing "a sacred character," and being
still a burial place of the Esquimaux, I named it Sacred Island. We saw
here two recent, and several more ancient graves. The bodies were
wrapped in skins closely covered with drift-wood, and laid with their
heads to the west; so that the rule mentioned by Captain Lyon in his
account of Melville peninsula, does not obtain on this part of the
coast; for there none but the bodies of infants are placed in that
direction. Various articles, such as canoes, sledges, and fishing nets,
were deposited near the graves.
Sacred Island is formed entirely of layers of fine sand of different
colours, covered by a little vegetable mould. One of its sides being
steeply escarped by the waves, showed its structure completely. Amongst
the vegetable productions of this spot, we noticed the perennial lupine,
the narrow-leaved epilobium, and some currant bushes in full flower, and
growing with great luxuriance. From its summit we had a view of the
river flowing in many channels, both to the eastward and westward. The
islands lying in sight to the westward are low, and apparently inundated
when the river is flooded; but to the eastward, there are many islands
having hummocks as high as Sacred Island, and judging from those that
were near, they are, like it, composed of sand. The channels surrounding
the island appear to be shallow.
After leaving that island, we steered along the main shore to a sandy
point about four miles distant, and encamped near a very recent resting
place of a large party of Esquimaux, not fewer than ten fires having
been made since the heavy rain of the morning. There was also vestiges
of five or six winter-houses on this point. Richards' Island, which was
named in honour of the Governor of the Bank of England, forms the
opposite bank of the channel here, and exhibits, like the neighbouring
islands, some sandy hummocks and cliffs. The length of the day's voyage
was twenty-five miles, and our encampment was situated in lat. 69
degrees 4 minutes N., long. 134 degrees 10 minutes W.
[Sidenote: Friday, 7th.] We embarked on the morning on the 7th at four
o'clock, in cold, hazy weather, and soon came to a point of Richards'
Island, on which there were four or five Esquimaux tents, with several
skin canoes, and boats lying on the beach. I had previously arranged
that on our first interview with the Esquimaux, I was to land with
Ooligbuck, whilst Mr. Kendall kept the boats afloat ready to lend us
such aid as might be required; conceiving that this was the best way of
inspiring the natives with confidence, should they be distrustful, or of
securing freedom of action to our crews should they prove unfriendly.
The muskets were kept in the arm-chest out of sight, but ready for
instant use. As we drew near the point, two women, who were walking
along the shore, looked at us with amazement for some minutes, and then
ran into the tents and alarmed their inmates. Several men instantly
rushed out, nearly naked, with their bows and quivers in their hands,
making furious gestures and apparently much frightened. I desired
Ooligbuck to speak to them, and called to them myself in their own
language that we were friends; but their terror and confusion was so
great, that they did not appear to comprehend us. I then took a few
beads, files, and knives, in my hand, and landing with Ooligbuck, made
some presents to the men, and told them I was come to trade. The moment
I mentioned the word "trade" (_noowoerlook_), their fears subsided, and
they sent away their bows, but retained their long knives; those that
were clothed thrusting them into their pockets or up their sleeves. An
old woman who seemed to have greater self-possession than the rest, and
to understand my meaning more readily, ran and fetched some dried fish,
for which I gave her beads; and the others then began to manifest an
eager desire of exchanging their fish for any thing that I offered. More
people coming from the tents, a crowd was formed, who obtained all the
trading articles I had brought on shore. As their surprise subsided,
their boldness and clamour increased, and some few of them began again
to use threatening expressions and gestures, either from a dislike to
strangers coming into their country, or for the purpose of intimidation
and extortion. When the interview assumed this disagreeable character,
Ooligbuck said that they were very bad people, and entreating me to
embark, took me on his back and carried me on board. At the same time,
several of the natives ran into the water and attempted to drag the boat
ashore, but on my calling to them they desisted. One fellow, whose
countenance, naturally disagreeable, had been rendered hideous by the
insertion of a large brass thimble into a perforation in the under lip,
seized upon our tea-kettle, and endeavoured to conceal it under water,
but being seen from the Union, he was made to return it.
When we left the shore, all the males, twenty-one in number, embarked in
their small canoes or kaiyacks and accompanied us; and in less than a
quarter of an hour, the women had struck the tents and embarked them,
together with their children, dogs, and luggage, in their row boats or
oomiaks, and were in close pursuit. For a time we proceeded down the
river together in an amicable manner, bartering beads, steels, flints,
files, knives, hatchets, and kettles, for fish, adzes, spears, and
arrows. The natives seemed to have a correct idea of property, and
showed much tact in their commerce with us; circumstances which have
been held by an eminent historian to be evidences of a considerable
progress towards civilization[5]. They were particularly cautious not to
glut the market by too great a display of their stock in trade;
producing only one article at a time, and not attempting to out-bid each
other; nor did I ever observe them endeavour to deprive one another of
any thing obtained in barter or as a present. As is usual with other
tribes of Esquimaux, they asked our names and told us theirs, a practice
diametrically opposite to that of the Indians, who conceive it to be
improper to mention a man's name in his presence, and will not, on any
account, designate their near relatives, except by some indirect phrase.
They showed much more curiosity respecting the construction of our boats
than any of the tribes of Indians we had seen, and expressed great
admiration of the rudder, soon comprehending its mode of action,
although it is a contrivance of which they were previously ignorant.
They were incessant in their inquiries as to the use of every thing they
saw in our possession, but were sometimes content with an answer too
brief to afford much explanation; as in the following instance.
Ooligbuck had lighted his pipe and was puffing the smoke from his mouth,
when they shouted "_ookah, ookah_," (fire, fire,) and demanded to be
told what he was doing. He replied with the greatest gravity,
"_poo-yoo-al-letchee-rawmah_" (I smoke); and this answer sufficed. On my
referring to an Esquimaux vocabulary, Ooligbuck, in answer to their
questions, told them that the book spoke to me, when they entreated me
to put it away. I afterwards detected the rogue with the brass thimble
endeavouring to steal this book, and placed it, as I thought, out of his
reach; it was missing in the evening, but I never ascertained whether it
had been purloined by the Esquimaux or had fallen overboard in moving
some of the stores. Seeing me use my pocket telescope, they speedily
comprehended its use, and called it "_eetee-yawgah_" (far eyes) the name
that they give to the wooden shade which is used to protect their eyes
from the glare of the snow; and which, from the smallness of its
aperture, enables them to see distant objects more clearly. Of our
trading articles, light copper kettles were in the greatest request, and
we were often asked for the long knives which are used for flinching
whales. It is creditable to the Esquimaux habits of cleanliness, that
combs were in great demand, and we saw wooden ones of their own
manufacture, not dissimilar to ours in form. I distributed
looking-glasses to some of the young men, but they were mostly returned
again, although I do not know on what account.
This party of Esquimaux, being similar in features and dress to the
tribe seen by Captain Franklin, and not differing materially from the
Esquimaux inhabiting Melville peninsula which have been so fully
described by Captains Parry and Lyon, it is not necessary to enter into
any detail here on those points. Ooligbuck's dialect and theirs differed
a little, but they mutually understood one another. I observed that they
invariably sounded the letter _m_ instead of _g_, when in the middle of
a word, calling Ooligbuck, Oolimbauk. Ooligbuck's attempts to pronounce
"Doctor" were sufficiently imperfect, but to our visitors, the word
seemed utterly unattainable, and they could designate me only by the
term _Eheumattak_ or chief. They succeeded better with the names of some
of the men, readily naming Tysoe, and calling Gillet "_Hillet_." The
females, as they passed in their oomiaks, bestowed on us some glances
that could scarcely be misconstrued,--their manners, in this respect,
differed widely from those of the Indian women, who have a modest and
even shy demeanour. Some of the young girls had a considerable share of
beauty, and seemed to have spared no pains in ornamenting their persons.
Their hair was turned up in a neat knot, on the crown of the head, and a
lock or queue, tied by a fillet of beads, hung down by the ears, on each
side. Mr. Nuttall, in his account of the Quapaws or Arkansas, mentions
that the unmarried women wear their hair braided into two parts, brought
round to either ear in a cylindrical form and ornamented with beads; and
a similar attention to head-dress is paid by some of the Indian women
inhabiting the borders of the great Canada lakes, and also by the
Tawcullies or Carriers of New Caledonia;[6] but the females of all the
tribes of Indians that we saw in our route through the northern parts of
the fur countries, suffer their hair to hang loose about their ears,
and, in general, adorn their persons less than the men of the same
tribes. The Esquimaux women dressing better, and being required to
labour less, than the Indian females, may be considered as a proof that
the former nation has made the greater progress towards civilization;
and I am of opinion that the Esquimaux would adopt European habits and
customs much more readily than the Indians.
Though there are many circumstances which widely distinguish the
Esquimaux from their Indian neighbours, they might all, possibly, be
traced to the necessity of associating in numbers for the capture of the
whale, and of laying up large hoards of blubber for winter consumption.
Thus have they been induced to build villages for their common
residence, and from thence have originated those social habits which are
incompatible with the wandering and precarious life of an Indian hunter.
It would lead, however, to too long a digression, were I to enter into
details on this subject, and I resume, therefore, the narrative of the
voyage.[7]
In the course of the morning we came to several other encampments, one
of them consisting of nine tents; and each party no sooner learnt who we
were, than they embarked bag and baggage and followed us. Some of the
new comers were shy, and kept aloof, but in general they were too
forward. Emboldened by their increase of numbers, they gradually became
more daring, and running their kaiyacks alongside, laid hold of the
boat's gunwale, and attempted to steal any thing within their reach. To
lessen their opportunities of annoying us, I was obliged to keep the
crews constantly rowing, for when we attempted to rest, three or four
fellows would instantly seize the opportunity of lifting the blades of
the oars and pushing their kaiyacks alongside, whilst others would cling
on by the bows and quarters, nor could they be dislodged without much
trouble. They manifested great cunning and dexterity in their pilfering
attempts, and frequently acted in concert. Thus, one fellow would lay
hold of the boat with both his hands; and while the coxswain and I were
disengaging them, his comrade on the other side would make the best use
of his time in transferring some of our property into his canoe, with
all the coolness of a practised thief. The smaller things being,
however, put as well out of the way as possible, and a strict look-out
kept, they were, in almost every instance, detected; and they restored,
with the most perfect good humour, every article they had taken, as soon
as it was demanded, often laughing heartily at their own want of
address. They succeeded only in purloining a bag of ball, and a
powder-horn, as the theft was not perceived at the time. I was
unwilling to check this conduct by a display of arms, because I was
desirous of gaining the natives by kindness and forbearance, the more
especially, as our ignorance of the state of the ice rendered it
doubtful, whether we might not be under the necessity of encamping, for
some time, in their neighbourhood. Had we resented their pilfering
attempts too hastily, we should have appeared the aggressors, for they
expressed great good-will towards us, readily answered such questions as
we were able to put to them about the course of the river, pointed out
to us the deepest channels, invited us to go ashore to cook our
breakfast, and even offered to provide us with wives, if we would pass
the night at their tents. For very obvious reasons we declined all their
invitations; but our crews being fatigued with continual rowing, and
faint from want of food, we halted at one P.M., by the side of a steep
bank, and breakfasted in the boats, insisting on the Esquimaux keeping
aloof whilst we were so engaged.
In the afternoon we had to search for a passage amongst islands, there
being no longer water enough near the main shore to float our boats. The
Esquimaux undertook to guide us, but whether through accident or design,
they led us, on one occasion, into a shallow channel, where we grounded
on a sand-bank, over which there was a strong current setting; and we
had not only much difficulty in getting afloat, but had to pull, for an
hour, against the stream, to regain the passage we had left. Soon after
this, one of the natives made a forcible attempt to come into the
Dolphin, under the pretext of bartering two large knives which he held
in his hand; and the dexterity with which he leaped from his kaiyack was
remarkable. There were three other kaiyacks betwixt him and our boats,
which, on his giving the signal, were, by their owners laying their
broad paddles across, instantly converted into a platform, over which he
ran with velocity and sprang upon the stern seat of the Dolphin, but he
was immediately tumbled out again. Judging from the boldness of this
fellow's behaviour, and the general tenour of the conduct of the
natives, that sooner or later they might be tempted to make an attack
upon us, I adopted, as a measure of precaution, the plan of purchasing
their bows, which are their most powerful weapons. They were at first
unwilling to part with them; but finding that we would take nothing else
in exchange for the articles we had to dispose of, they ultimately let
us have a good number. The Esquimaux bows are formed of spruce-fir,
strengthened on the back by cords made of the sinews of the rein-deer,
and would have been prized, even beyond their favourite yew, by the
archers of Sherwood. They are far superior to the bows of the Indians,
and are fully capable of burying "the goose-wing of a cloth-yard shaft"
in the heart of a deer.
Several of the young men tried the speed of their kaiyacks against our
boats, and seemed to delight in showing us how much their little vessels
excelled ours in velocity. Towards evening the women's oomiaks had all
gone ahead, and we were given to understand that they were about to
encamp for the night. Thinking that they would choose the best route, we
followed them into a channel, which proved too shallow; and when we put
about to try another, the natives became more urgent than ever that we
should land and encamp along with them. Just as we were about to enter a
passage which the Esquimaux, doubtless, knew was deep enough, and led by
the shortest route to the sea, the Union grounded upon a bank, about
half a bow-shot from the shore. Seven or eight of the natives instantly
jumped out of their kaiyacks, and laying hold of the boat's bow and
steering-sweep, attempted to drag her ashore. They were speedily joined
by others, who hurried from the beach with knives in their hands; and
Mr. Kendall seeing that he would almost immediately be surrounded by a
force too great to permit his men to act, called to me that he should be
obliged to fire. Fully aware of the necessity of prompt measures, I
answered that he was at liberty to fire if necessary. Upon which,
snatching up his fowling-piece, he presented it at three of the most
daring who had hold of the sweep-oar, and his crew who were now in the
water endeavouring to shove the boat off, and struggling with the
natives, jumped on board and seized their muskets. The crew of the
Dolphin likewise displayed their arms and stood ready, but I ordered
that no individual should fire until called upon by name. They were,
however, the instant that a shot was fired from the Union, to lay the
Dolphin aground alongside of her, that thus we might present only two
assailable sides to the enemy. Happily there was no occasion to fire at
all; the contests of the Esquimaux with the Indians had taught them to
dread fire-arms, and on the sudden sight of every man armed with a
musket, they fled to the shore. Until that moment we had kept our guns
carefully concealed in the arm-chest, to prevent any of the natives from
snatching them away and disarming us, and also that they might not deem
our intentions to be other than pacific.
I do not believe that the natives had matured a plan of attack, but the
stranding of a boat on their own shore was too great a temptation to be
resisted. Some individuals had previously shown unequivocal signs of
good feeling towards us, such as bringing back the Union's sweep-oar,
which had slipped from the coxswain's hands; and also in pointing out
the channel we afterwards pursued to the sea, as preferable to the one
which the oomiaks had taken. Even the better-disposed, however, would,
doubtless, have joined the others, had they began to plunder with
success; for they told us in the forenoon that there was no one of their
horde acknowledged as a chief. It is probable that the Esquimaux were
doubtful as to the sex of some of our party, until they saw them prepare
for battle. None but women row in their oomiaks, and they had asked
Ooligbuck if all the white women had beards.
The crews on this occasion behaved with a coolness and resolution worthy
of the utmost praise, executing without the slightest confusion the
orders they received. Mr. Kendall acted with his usual judgment; and his
prudence and humanity, in refraining from firing, merit the highest
encomiums. The Union being speedily set afloat by her crew, we pulled
together through a wide channel, three feet deep. The spot where this
transaction took place has been named Point Encounter, and is in
latitude 69 degrees 16 minutes N., and longitude 136 degrees 20 minutes W.
The Esquimaux seemed to hold a consultation on the beach after we left
them; but, as none attempted to follow us immediately, we enjoyed the
respite from their forwardness and clamour, which had become very
harrassing, particularly to Mr. Kendall and myself, who had other duties
to attend to. He had full occupation in surveying and delineating the
route; and as the Dolphin led the way through a shoal and intricate
navigation, it was requisite that I should keep the sounding-lead
constantly going, and be on the watch for any change in the appearance
of the current which might indicate shoal water, the smallness of our
crews preventing me from appointing any man to that service. In about an
hour after leaving Point Encounter, we observed ten kaiyacks coming
towards us from a cluster of islands; they soon overtook us, but kept at
a reasonable distance, and no longer gave us any trouble by coming
alongside. We wished to show that we had no desire to hurt them,
notwithstanding their past conduct, and, therefore, began again to trade
with them; yet we were naturally anxious that they should leave us
before we encamped, because, from the fleetness of their kaiyacks, they
could soon collect a great number of their countrymen, and give us much
annoyance in the night. Our wishes were seconded by a fresh breeze of
wind springing up and enabling us to set the sails, by which the crews
enjoyed a rest, after fourteen hours' labour at the oars; and the
Esquimaux had greater difficulty in keeping up with the increased
velocity of our boats. Thinking that they would quit us as soon as they
lost the hope of getting more goods, I desired Ooligbuck to tell them I
would trade no more, and they accordingly, one by one, dropped behind
and left us. Three followed us longer than the others, and as they were
not of the party which attacked the Union, and had hitherto received
nothing from us, I made each of them a small present of beads and
fire-steels, when they also took leave, calling out "_teymah,
peechaw-ooloo_," "friendship is good."
We learned in the course of the day, from the natives, that they call
themselves _Kitte-garroe-oot_, (inhabitants of the land near the
mountains,) and that they were now on their way to a place favourable
for the capture of white whales, as in the sea, which they said was many
days' march distant, there was too much ice to take the black whales at
this season. It also appeared that they annually ascend to the Narrows
of Mackenzie River, for the purpose of trading with the Quarrellers, and
were accustomed to spend their summers in a large lake of brackish
water, (Esquimaux Lake,) lying to the eastward, where they occasionally
meet parties of Loucheux. They informed us that the land to the eastward
of Encounter Point is a collection of islands, and that there were many
of their countrymen fishing in the rivers which separate them. They had
heard of the Esquimaux at the mouth of the Coppermine River, and knew
them by their name of _Naggoe-ook-tor-moe-oot_, (or Deer-horns,) but
said they were very far off, and that they had no intercourse with them;
adding, that all the inhabitants of the coast to the eastward were bad
people. They knew white people by the name of _Kabloonacht_, and Indians
by that of _Eitkallig_, the same appellations that are used by the
Esquimaux of Hudson's Bay; but their name for the black whale was
different from that given to it by Ooligbuck; and they also gave names
to some of their utensils which he had never heard before. Ooligbuck was
not of much use as an interpreter, in our intercourse with these people,
for he spoke no English; but his presence answered the important purpose
of showing that the white people were on terms of friendship with the
distant tribes of Esquimaux. As a boatman he was of the greatest
service, being strongly attached to us, possessing an excellent temper,
and labouring cheerfully at his oar.
We could not ascertain the numbers of Esquimaux we saw in the course of
the day, because they were always coming and going, but we passed at
least thirty tents, and had reason to believe that on some of the
islands there were tents which we did not see. Four grown people is,
perhaps the average number of the inhabitants of each tent. A short time
before the attack on the Union, I counted forty kaiyacks round the two
boats.
The wind freshened, and the night began to look stormy, as we stood
across a wide sound which was open from the N.W. to the N.E., and had a
depth of water varying from three to seven feet. White whales were seen;
and some of the crew thought the water tasted brackish. About nine P.M.
a drizzling rain came on, attended with very dark weather, which induced
us to make for a round islet, with a view of encamping, and securing the
boats for the night; it was skirted by shoals that prevented us from
landing, and we therefore anchored the boats by poles stuck in the mud,
raised the coverings of the cargo on masts and oars, so as to turn off
the rain; and after eating our supper and setting a watch, we
endeavoured to get some repose by lying down in our clothes, wet as they
were. We had scarcely laid down, however, before the wind changed and
began to blow with violence directly on the shore, so as to render it
necessary for us to shift our situation without delay. An attempt was
made to row the boats round to the other side of the islet, but they
drifted upon the shoals in spite of the exertions of the crew, and began
to strike violently. [Sidenote: Saturday, 8th.] In this perilous
situation we perceived some smooth water to leeward, upon which setting
the foresails, the boats were pushed over a sandy bar into two fathoms
water. We then stood towards the eastern shore, and keeping in deep
water, entered a small inlet, which received the name of Refuge Cove;
where having made fast the boats to the beach, pitched a tent on the
shore, and set a watch, we attempted a second time to obtain some rest.
We were not, however, destined to enjoy much repose that night, for we
had scarcely overcome the chilliness occasioned by lying down in wet
clothes, when the Union broke from her moorings in a violent gust of
wind, and began to drive across the inlet towards the lee-shore, on
which there was a considerable surf. Mr. Kendall and one of the crew,
who were sleeping on board, to be ready in case of accident, lowered the
covering with the utmost expedition, and taking the oars, kept her from
driving far, until the rest of the party arrived to their assistance in
the Dolphin. The boats were brought to the beach and secured, and we had
again retired to rest, when the tent-pegs, although loaded with drift
timber, were drawn up by the force of the wind, and the tent, drenched
with rain, fell upon us. It was in vain to attempt to sleep after this,
benumbed as we were by the coldness of the weather; but the rain ceasing
about four in the morning of the 8th, we were enabled to make a good
fire, and dry our clothes. The cargo of the boats was then landed, the
wet packages spread out to dry, and the boats were drawn upon the beach
so as to form, with the baggage, a three-sided breast-work, to which we
could retreat, should the Esquimaux pay us a hostile visit. These
arrangements being made, the tent was removed to a more sheltered spot,
and we slept quietly until ten o'clock in the morning. In the night an
accident happened to Mr. Kendall, which might have had fatal
consequences, and alarmed us at the time exceedingly. The point of a
small two-edged knife which he wore in a sheath slung from his neck,
was, by his falling against one of the tent-poles, forced through the
sheath into his side, exactly in the region of the heart. Through the
mercy of Providence, its progress was arrested by one of the ribs, and
the wound healed in the course of a few days. At noon a meridian
observation was obtained, which placed the mouth of Refuge Cove in
latitude 69 degrees 29 minutes N.; and the sun's bearing showed the
variation of the magnetic needle to be 49-1/2 degrees easterly. The
length of our voyage the preceding day was fifty-seven miles. Refuge
Cove has an irregular form; its length is about two miles and a half,
and its greatest width one mile. It is upwards of two fathoms deep at
the entrance, and for some distance within; but a bar runs from Shoal
Islet to its north side. Its shores are flat and sandy, but here and
there hummocks rise abruptly to the height of one hundred feet,
resembling the downs on the Norfolk coast. The sandy hummocks are bound
together by the creeping fibrous roots of a species of grass, named
_Elymus mollis_; and many of them are covered by a coat of black
vegetable mould. Ruins of Esquimaux houses, that appeared to have been
deserted for many years, were scattered along the borders of the cove,
and much drift-timber lay on the low grounds. We saw some ducks and
geese, and two of the crew went to hunt round the harbour for deer, but
they had no success.
The wind having moderated in the evening, we prepared to resume the
voyage, and had begun to load the boats, when I thought I saw a
_kaiyack_ paddle across the mouth of the cove. It was followed by many
others, that were in succession lost behind the point, with the
exception of one which seemed to return and look into the inlet. I
concluded that the natives were in search of us; and, as it was
desirable to have all the cargo on board when they arrived, the utmost
despatch was used in loading the boats. Before this operation was
completed, Mr. Kendall, on attentively examining one of the objects with
his telescope, suggested that it was not a kaiyack; and accompanying me
to a sandy eminence nearer the entrance of the cove, we ascertained that
the whole was an optical deception, caused by the haze of an easterly
wind magnifying the stumps of drift wood, over which the surf was
rolling. The imagination, no doubt, assisted in completing the
resemblance, but the deception, for a few minutes, was perfect.
We quitted Refuge Cove at nine o'clock in the evening, and rounding
Shoal Islet, steered to the northward along the coast. The circuit of
Shoal Islet was made because there was too little water to float our
boats over the bar, which we had crossed the preceding evening. The
temperature of the air on leaving the cove, was 36 degrees, but it fell
at midnight to 32 degrees; and the night proved fine. When resting on
our oars, the boats were drifted to the westward, by a current which we
ascertained, by subsequent observations, to be the flood tide.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 9th.] After pulling along the coast for some time,
the ice-blink appeared in the horizon, and about one o'clock in the
morning on the 9th, we could perceive a stream of ice lying at the
distance of eight or nine miles from the shore, and inclosing several
small icebergs. At four o'clock, a northerly breeze springing up,
brought a quantity of loose ice down upon us, and we made for the shore.
This part of the coast is skirted to the distance of two miles by flat
sands, on which there is not more than a foot or eighteen inches of
water. The depth of water gradually increases to four fathoms, which it
attains at the distance of six or seven miles from the shore, and the
heavy ice we saw outside, showed that the depth there was considerable.
Esquimaux winter-huts occur frequently on the coast, and the rows of
drift-trees planted in the sand with the roots uppermost, in their
vicinity, assume very curious forms, when seen through a hazy
atmosphere. They frequently resembled a crowd of people, and sometimes
we fancied they were not unlike the spires of a town just appearing
above the horizon. We learnt by experience that the shore was more
approachable at the points on which the Esquimaux had built, and we
effected a landing at one of those places, when, having discharged the
cargoes, we hauled the boats up, and pitched the tents. The water at our
landing-place was fresh, but too hard to make tea; and at four or five
miles from the shore, it was disagreeable to drink. Out of respect to
Captain Toker of the Royal Navy, under whom I had once the honour to
serve, his name was given to this Point. Mr. Kendall ascertained its
latitude to be 69 degrees 38 minutes N.; its longitude by reckoning, 132
degrees 18 minutes W.; and the variation of the magnetic needle 50-1/2
degrees easterly. The distance rowed from Refuge Cove was about twelve
miles. A tide pole was erected, by which it appeared that the ebb ran
from four o'clock, the time at which we landed, until ten in the
morning, producing a fall of eighteen inches; but the afternoon tide did
not rise so high, and at 10h. 50 minutes P.M. it was low water again,
the wind blowing fresh from the northward all the time.
The vicinity of Point Toker, like the rest of the lands to the eastward
of Point Encounter, consists of level sands, inclosing pieces of water
which communicate with the estuary of the river, and interspersed with
detached conical hills rising from one to two hundred feet above the
general level. These hills are sometimes escarped by the action of the
water, and are then seen to consist of sand of various colours, in which
very large logs of drift-timber are imbedded. They are covered by a coat
of black vegetable earth, from six inches to a foot in thickness, which
shows that they cannot be of very recent formation, though at some
distant period they may have been formed by the drifting of moveable
sands. At present, the highest floods reach only to the foot of the
hills, where they deposit a thick layer of drift-timber. One straight
log of spruce fir, thirty feet long, was seven feet in circumference at
the small end, and twelve a short distance above the root. The branches
and bark are almost always rubbed off from the drift-timber which
reaches the sea, but a few of the main divisions of the root are
generally left. Various instruments tied up in bundles were suspended to
poles near some of the Esquimaux houses, such as spear-heads and ice
chisels made from the tooth of the narwhal, and spoons of musk-ox horn.
The marine animals that frequent this part of the coast, according to
the information we obtained from the Esquimaux, are, the white whale,
the narwhal, large and small seals, (_oggoe-ook_ and _nat-choe-ook_,)
and a species of black whale, named _aggee-woerk_. There are also many
sea-fish, of which the capeline (_ang-mag-goe-ook_,) that abound on the
shoals at this season, are most easily caught. The natives are
unacquainted with sea-horses. Swans, Canada and white geese, and Arctic
ducks, are numerous, and we killed several. Ooligbuck likewise killed a
rein-deer, which afforded us an agreeable change of diet.
In the evening, having assembled in one of the tents, prayers were read,
a practice to which we adhered on every Sunday evening during the
voyage. At 10h. 45m. P.M., I lighted a piece of touchwood with a convex
lens, an inch in diameter, the altitude of the sun being then 3 degrees
6 minutes. It is seldom that the sun in warmer climates affords so much
heat at so low an altitude.
[Sidenote: Monday, 10th.] The ice opening a little, we resumed the
voyage at five o'clock in the morning of the 10th, but had not rowed
above five miles, when our further progress was impeded by a ridge of
grounded-ice, extending apparently far out to sea. We landed to obtain a
view from a height, and took advantage of the opportunity to prepare
breakfast. Whilst thus engaged, we discovered, on the opposite side of a
bay which we had just crossed, two of the natives couched upon the sand,
and evidently watching us; but before we had concluded our meal, they
went off. On re-embarking, we went round the ice which was aground on
extensive sandy spits, and then pulled in for the shore; but a fresh
breeze of wind created such a swell, that we did not advance above three
miles in two hours. Deeming it unadvisable to fatigue the crews, while
the progress was so small, we pulled into a sandy bay, and made the
boats fast to one of many large pieces of ice which were stranded on the
beach, having gained since setting out in the morning, eight miles.
Just as we made for the shore, we observed three Esquimaux regarding us
from an eminence, and two others soon afterwards joined them: the latter
being, as we discovered from the direction of their path over the sands,
the two we had seen at breakfast-time. They retired as we drew near the
beach, and on reconnoitring the neighbourhood, we discovered three
skin-tents, whose owners were running off with their effects in great
alarm. As we had experienced how troublesome the natives were, when
relieved from their fears, we did not seek an interview at this time;
and to guard against accidents from parties of them way-laying our men,
I determined that, while we remained in this anchorage, the crews should
land only to cook their provisions and then be accompanied either by Mr.
Kendall or myself. The water at our anchorage was decidedly brackish,
the beach was strewed with _sertulariae_ and other marine productions,
and several white whales were seen in the offing; all which
circumstances being considered as decided evidences of our having
reached the mouth of the river, that event was celebrated by issuing to
each of the men a glass of grog, which had been reserved for the
occasion.
FOOTNOTES:
[4] As the reader may desire to know what hieroglyphics were used to
express our intentions, a copy of the letter is annexed.
[Illustration]
[5] Robertson's _History of America_.
[6] _Harmon's Journal_, p. 288.
[7] The Esquimaux method of settling disputes, which we learned from
Augustus, deserves to be mentioned, not only as being very different
from the sullen conduct of an affronted Indian, but from its coincidence
with the practice of a people widely separated from them--the native
inhabitants of Sydney, in New South Wales. Mr. Cunningham, in his
entertaining work on New South Wales, says, "The common practice of
fighting amongst the natives is still with the _waddie_, each
alternately stooping the head to receive the other's blows, until one
tumbles down, it being considered cowardly to evade a stroke." The
Esquimaux use the fist instead of the waddie, in these singular duels,
but there is no other difference betwixt their practice and that of the
New South Wales' people. Another coincidence betwixt the Esquimaux and
the inhabitants of Australasia, is the use of the throwing stick for
discharging their spears.
CONTINUATION OF THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE EASTERN DETACHMENT.
CHAPTER II.
Detention by wind--Visited by Esquimaux--Cross a large Stream of fresh
Water--Winter Houses on Atkinson Island--Gale of Wind, and Fog--Run into
Browell Cove--Double Cape Dalhousie--Liverpool Bay and Esquimaux
Lake--Icy Cliffs--Meet another Party of Esquimaux--Cape Bathurst.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 11th.] The wind blew so strongly during the 11th,
that we remained in our mooring-place, landing occasionally to take a
little exercise on the beach; and as it continued to freshen from the
north-east in the evening, most of the ice in the offing had drifted out
of sight, while a great reduction took place at the same time in the
number and size of the pieces of stranded ice. One of them which had
grounded about a mile outside of us, and rose fifteen feet above the
water, fell over and floated away with the ebb tide. Mr. Kendall
obtained a meridian observation for latitude, and afterwards took
several sets of lunar distances, whose results placed our anchorage in
latitude 69 degrees 42-1/2 minutes N., and longitude 131 degrees 58
minutes W. In the afternoon two Esquimaux were seen walking fast over a
hill, and often stopping and looking anxiously around them. About
midnight two black foxes carried off the scraps of meat that had been
left at our cooking-place, and buried them carefully in the sand above
high-water mark. We observed that they dug separate hiding-places for
each piece, and that they were careful to carry the largest bits
farthest from the sea. The time spent inactively at the anchorage was so
irksome, that even the movements of these animals were a subject of much
interest to us, and we felt great regret when they were scared away by
the talking of the men in the boats.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 12th.] No material alteration took place in the
weather on the 12th. The temperature was 45 degrees; but from the force
of the wind, and our confinement in the boats, we felt cold. In the
evening two elderly Esquimaux came to us in their kaiyacks, shouting as
they approached the boats, and paddling boldly alongside. They told us
that they were the same two whom we had seen in the morning of the 10th
watching us while at breakfast, though they had first discovered us on
the 9th, and had seen Ooligbuck kill the deer, which had alarmed them
greatly; they had since been to inquire about us from the party at
Point Encounter, and having learnt that we were well-disposed, they had
come to open a communication. In allusion, I suppose, to the attempt on
the Union, they often said that the Esquimaux at the river's mouth were
bad people, but that they themselves were good-hearted men; and they
struck their breasts forcibly with their hands, to give energy to their
assurances. They told us that a large party of their countrymen, who
were at present fishing at the mouth of a river to the eastward, would
soon move in this direction to kill white whales. Eetkoo-yak, the
principal spokesman, invited us to go to his tents, where he said, the
women would be glad to receive us; and added, that next day he would
bring four of his countrymen to visit us. We made them a handsome
present of iron-work; and having paid, with beads, for some dried fish,
sent them away highly contented.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 13th.] At seven o'clock in the morning of the 13th,
nine Esquimaux came to us, amongst whom were our two acquaintances of
yesterday. Some of the young men inquired when we were going away, and
seemed to be anxious that we should depart; but our friend Eetkoo-yak
gave us a pressing invitation to his tents, and wished to embark in the
boats to conduct us thither. We declined his proposal, and the wind
having moderated, we unmoored the boats, and rowed along the coast. The
natives followed us, and soon afterwards four women and two boys came
off in an oomiak, and exchanged some boots, pieces of leather, deer's
meat, and fish for beads. The point on which their tents were pitched
was named Point Warren after my friend Captain Samuel Warren, R.N. As we
continued our course the oomiak returned to the shore, and the men also
left us soon afterwards, apparently pleased with our departure; for the
knowledge of the effect of our muskets seemed to have impressed them
with some dread. They were tattooed across the cheeks. The tribes to the
westward of the Mackenzie are described by Captain Franklin, (p. 111,)
as following a different fashion in the application of this ornament.
We coasted this day a flat shore, with dry sands running off to the
distance of two or three miles, and we passed within several shoals, on
which some heavy ice had grounded. Only a few small streams of ice were
seen, although the ice-blink was visible the whole day. Soon after
rounding Point Warren, we crossed the mouth of a large river, the water
being muddy and fresh for a breadth of three miles, and the sounding
lead was let down to the depth of five fathoms, without striking the
bottom. This river is, perhaps, a branch of the Mackenzie, and falls
into a bay, on which I have bestowed the name of my esteemed friend
Copland Hutchinson, Esq. Surgeon Extraordinary to His Royal Highness
the Duke of Clarence. On its east side there is an island, which was
named after Captain Charles Phillips, R.N. to whom the nautical world is
indebted for the double-capstan, and many other important inventions.
At five o'clock in the afternoon, rainy weather setting in, we made for
a small island, and mooring the boats as near the beach as we could,
covered them up, and landed to prepare supper. The length of the day's
voyage was twenty-eight miles and a half. Mr. Kendall named the island
in honour of Mr. Atkinson, of Berry-House; it is situated in latitude 69
degrees 55 minutes N., longitude 130 degrees 43 minutes W., and is
separated from a flat, and occasionally inundated shore, by a narrow
creek. It is bounded towards the sea by a bulwark of sand-hills, drifted
by the wind to the height of 30 feet. Under their shelter 17
winter-houses have been erected by the natives besides a large building
which from its structure, seemed to be intended for a place of assembly
for the tribe. Ooligbuck thought it was a general eating-room, but he
was not certain, as his tribe erect no such buildings.
I annex a section and ground plan of one of the largest of the
dwelling-houses. The centre (A) is a square of ten feet, having a level
flooring, with a post at each corner (D,D) to support the
ridge-poles,[8] on which the roof rests. The recesses (B) are intended
for sleeping-places. Their floors have a gentle inclination inwards, and
are raised a foot above the central flooring. Their back walls are a
foot high, and incline outwards like the back of a chair. The
ridge-poles are six feet above the floor, the roof being flat in the
centre, and sloping over the recesses. The inside of the building is
lined with split-wood, and the outside is strongly but roughly built of
logs, the whole being covered with earth. An inclined platform (C) forms
the ascent to the door, which is in the middle of one of the recesses,
and is four feet high; and the threshold, being on a level with the
central flooring, is raised three feet above the surrounding ground, to
guard against inundations. There is a square hole in the roof, near the
door, intended for ventilation, or for an occasional entrance. As we
observed no fire-places in these dwellings, it is probable that they are
heated, and the cookery performed in the winter, with lamps. Some of the
houses were built front to front, with a very narrow passage between
them leading to the doors, which were opposite to each other. This
passage must form a snug porch in the winter when it is covered with
slabs of frozen snow, and one end stopped up. Some of the larger houses
which stood single, had log-porches to shelter their doors; and near
each house there was a square or oblong pit, four feet beneath the
surface of the ground, lined and covered with drift timber, which was
evidently intended for a store-house.
[Illustration]
The large building for an assembly-room was, in the interior, a square
of 27 feet, having the log-roof supported on two strong ridge poles, two
feet apart, and resting on four upright posts. The floor in the centre,
formed of split logs, dressed and laid with great care, was surrounded
by a raised border about three feet wide, which was, no doubt, meant for
seats. The walls, three feet high, were inclined outwards, for the
convenience of leaning the back against them, and the ascent to the
door, which was on the south side was formed of logs. The outside,
covered with earth, had nearly a hemispherical form, and round its base
there were ranged the skulls of 21 whales. There was a square hole in
the roof, and the central log of the floor had a basin-shaped cavity,
one foot in diameter, which was, perhaps, intended for a lamp. The
general attention to comfort in the construction of the village, and the
erection of a building of such magnitude, requiring a union of purpose
in a considerable number of people, are evidences of no small progress
towards civilization. Whale skulls were confined to the large building,
and to one of the dwelling-houses, which had 3 or 4 placed round it.
Many wooden trays, and hand-barrows for carrying whale blubber, were
lying on the ground, most of them in a state of decay.
Myriads of musquitoes, which reposed among the grass, rose in clouds
when disturbed, and gave us much annoyance. Many snow birds were
hatching on the Point, and we saw swans, Canada geese, eider, king,
arctic, and surf ducks; several glaucous, silvery, black-headed, and
ivory gulls, together with terns and northern divers. Some laughing
geese passed to the northward in the evening, which may be considered as
a sure indication of land in that direction. The sea-water at Atkinson
Island being quite salt, and the ponds on the shore brackish, we had
recourse to the ice that lay aground for a supply of fresh water. Strong
gales of wind, with heavy rain, continued all night.
[Sidenote: Friday, 14th.] The rain ceasing at four o'clock in the
morning of the 14th, we embarked, and pulled along a sandy bar which
projected five or six miles from Atkinson Island, and was covered by
masses of ice. We had not left the beach above an hour, when a thick fog
hid the land from our view, and a noise of breakers being at the same
time heard, we deemed it prudent to moor the boats to a piece of
grounded ice, and wait for clear weather. After a time, the fog
dispersing partially, we made sail before a fresh breeze towards the
most easterly point of land in sight, but we had not advanced above five
or six miles before the looming of the shore on the larboard bow made it
necessary to haul to the wind; and the fog becoming as dense as ever, we
ran aground on some flats, where the surf nearly filled the boats. On
lowering the sails, deeper water was attained, but the wind began to
blow hard directly upon the shore, and we could not discover a
landing-place, nor did we even know our distance from the beach. In this
dilemma we saw a long line of floating sea-weed, and Ooligbuck
suggesting that it came from the mouth of a river, we followed its
direction, and, with the aid of the sounding lead, groped our way
betwixt two shoals into a well sheltered inlet. Here there was a good
landing-place, and we deemed ourselves peculiarly fortunate in reaching
so snug a harbour, for the fog continued all day, and the wind increased
to a heavy gale.
The inlet was named Browell Cove, in honour of the Lieutenant-Governor
of the Royal Hospital at Greenwich, and the bay to the westward of it,
M'Kinley Bay, out of respect to Captain George M'Kinley, of the Naval
Asylum. The latitude of the mouth of Browell Cove is 70 degrees N., and
the longitude 130 degrees 19 minutes W. We did not ascertain its extent,
but as its water is brackish, it probably communicates with Esquimaux
Lake, which, according to Indian report, lies behind the islands that
form this part of the coast. Several large basins of salt water
communicate with the cove. Some herds of deer were seen, but too many
hunters going in pursuit of them they were frightened away. The
temperature throughout the day was 42 degrees.
I observed forty species of plants in flower here, of which nearly
one-third were grasses and carices. The Thrift common on the sandy parts
of the British coast is a frequent ornament of Browell Cove; and seven
or eight of the other plants seen there, are natives of the Scottish
hills. Two dwarf species of willows were the only shrubs.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 15th.] The fog clearing away, and the wind
moderating, we embarked about three in the morning of the 15th; and
steering along the coast, came to a group of low sandy islands, that
were separated by wide but very shallow channels, and skirted, to the
distance of five or six miles, by sand-banks, which were nearly dry at
low water. In rounding these banks our soundings varied from two feet to
two fathoms, and we were occasionally led almost out of sight of the
land. During the whole day we saw much ice to seaward, and in some
places it was so closely packed as to render it doubtful whether a ship
would have been able to make way through it. The line of deep water was
marked by large masses of ice lying aground, and was about ten miles
from the shore. As we could not reach the beach, we disembarked upon a
piece of ice at noon, and cutting up a spare seat for fire-wood,
proceeded to cook our breakfast, and make observations for latitude and
magnetic variation.
After rounding the shoals, we made a traverse of ten miles across an
inlet, where the water ran out with a strong current; and, though five
fathoms deep, it was nearly fresh. This I supposed to be another
communication betwixt Esquimaux Lake and the sea, and named it Russel
Inlet, after the distinguished Professor of Clinical Surgery in the
University of Edinburgh. The land on its western side was called Cape
Brown, out of respect to the eminent botanist, whose scientific
researches reflect so much credit on British talent; and that to the
eastward of the inlet received the name of Dalhousie, in honour of His
Excellency the Governor-in-Chief of the Canadas. Cape Dalhousie consists
of a number of high, sandy islands, resembling those seen from Sacred
Island, in the mouth of the Mackenzie. We entered some deep inlets
amongst them, in search of a landing-place, but the beach was every
where too flat. At length, after dragging the boats through the mud for
a considerable way, and carrying the cargoes for a quarter of a mile
over a flat sand, we reached the shore, and pitched the tents. The
island on which we encamped was similar to the others, being from one
hundred to one hundred and fifty feet high above the water, and bounded
on all sides by steep, sandy cliffs, which were skirted by flat sands.
From the summit of the island we had the unpleasant view of a sea
covered with floating ice, as far as the eye could reach to the
eastward. Temperature during the greater part of the day 55 degrees; at
nine P.M. 52 degrees. Wind easterly. The length of this day's voyage was
thirty miles and a half; the latitude of the encampment 70 degrees 12
minutes, and longitude 129 degrees 21 minutes W.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 16th.] On the 16th the boats were afloat, and loaded
by seven in the morning, when we pulled round Cape Dalhousie, and found
the land trending as we wished to the south-east. Since reaching the
sea, the coast had gradually inclined to the northward, which with the
increased quantity of ice seen on the two or three last days, led us to
fear that a cape might exist, extending so far to the northward, as to
prevent us from reaching the Coppermine River within the period to which
our voyage was limited. It was, therefore, with peculiar satisfaction,
that, on putting ashore to cook breakfast, we saw distant land to the
S.E., apparently of greater height than that which we had recently
coasted; and we now flattered ourselves that we were about to leave
behind us the low coasts and shoals, which render the boat navigation
across the mouths of the Mackenzie and Esquimaux Lake so perplexing and
hazardous. Many deer were seen at our breakfasting-place, and the
musquitoes annoyed them so much that there would have been no difficulty
in approaching them, if we could have spared time to send out the
hunters.
Having obtained an observation for latitude, we directed our course to a
projecting point across an inlet, with no land visible towards its
bottom. The soundings in the middle of the opening exceeded nine
fathoms; the water became less salt as we advanced, and at last could
only be termed brackish. The point proved to be an Island sixteen miles
distant from our breakfasting-place; and as we approached it, we had the
mortification to perceive a coast seven or eight miles beyond it,
apparently continuous, and trending away to the north-north-west. The
island was named Nicholson Island, as a mark of my esteem for William
Nicholson, Esq., of Rochester. It is bounded by high cliffs of sand and
mud, and rises in the interior to the height of four hundred feet above
the sea. The cliffs were thawed to the depth of three feet, but frozen
underneath, and the water issuing from the thawing ground caused the mud
to boil out and flow down the banks. There were many small lakes on the
island, and a tolerably good vegetation. Amongst other plants I gathered
here a very beautiful American cowslip, (_dodecatheon_,) which grew in
the moist valleys. From the summit of the island a piece of water,
resembling a large river, and bearing south, was seen winding through a
country pleasantly varied by gently swelling hills and dales, and
differing so much in character from the alluvial islands we had just
left, that I thought myself justified in considering it to be part of
the main land. From S.W. to W.N.W. open water was seen, broken only by a
few islands, that were named after Major-General Campbell, of the Royal
Marines. This large sheet of water is undoubtedly the Esquimaux Lake,
which, according to the natives, not only communicates with the eastern
branch of the Mackenzie, but receives, besides, two large rivers; and,
consequently, the whole of the land which we coasted from Point
Encounter, is a collection of islands. The temperature varied this day
from 38 degrees to 55 degrees. The length of the day's voyage was
thirty-three miles, the latitude of our encampment 69 degrees 57
minutes, and longitude 128 degrees 18 minutes W.
[Sidenote: Monday, 17th.] On the 17th a thick fog detained us until nine
o'clock in the morning, when it dispersed, and we left our encampment.
About two miles from Nicholson's Island the water was nine fathoms deep,
and had a brackish taste; but as we continued our course to the
northward, it became shoaler and salter. This added to the probability
of the winding channel, which bore south, being a large river; and that
opinion was further strengthened by our observing, when we landed to
breakfast, the shore to be strewed with tide-wrack, resembling that
which is generally found on the banks of rivers in this country, such as
pieces of willows, fragments of fresh-water plants, and lumps of peat
earth. We were delighted to find here a beach of sand and fine gravel,
bold enough to admit of our running the boats upon it. The fresh
footsteps of a party of Esquimaux were seen on the sand.