TRANSACTIONS AT FORT FRANKLIN, 1825-26.
Mr. Dease having passed the winter of 1824-25 at the Big Island of
Mackenzie, arrived here with fifteen Canadian voyagers, Beaulieu, the
interpreter, and four Chipewyan hunters, on the twenty-seventh of July,
1825; which, on account of the drifting of the ice, was as soon as he
could, with safety, ascend the Bear Lake River. Several of the Dog-Rib
Indians were on the spot, which enabled him to take immediate steps
towards procuring a supply of dried meat for our winter use, as well as
of fresh meat for present consumption. It having been ascertained that
the Rein-deer are most abundant in the north-east quarter of the lake,
during the months of August and September, a select party of Indians was
despatched to hunt thereabout, under the direction of the interpreter,
who took a large canoe for the purpose of bringing home the produce of
their hunt. Other men were sent to inform the Hare Indians of our wish
to purchase any meat they might bring to the establishment. Our
principal subsistence, however, was, to be derived from the water, and
Mr. Dease was determined in the selection of the spot on which our
residence was to be erected, by its proximity to that part of the lake
where the fish had usually been abundant. The place decided upon was the
site of an old fort belonging to the North-West Company, which had been
abandoned many years; our buildings being required of a much larger
size, we derived very little benefit from its materials. The wood in the
immediate vicinity having been all cut down for fuel by the former
residents, the party was obliged to convey the requisite timber in rafts
from a considerable distance, which, of course, occasioned trouble and
delay. We found, however, on our arrival, all the buildings in a
habitable state, but wanting many internal arrangements to fit them for
a comfortable winter residence. They were disposed so as to form three
sides of a square, the officers' house being in the centre, those for
the men on the right, with a house for the interpreter's family, and the
store on the left. A blacksmith's shop and meat store were added, and
the whole was inclosed by the stockading of the original fort, which we
found highly serviceable in screening us from the snow-drift and wintry
blasts. The officers' dwelling measured forty-four feet by twenty-four,
and contained a hall and four apartments, beside a kitchen. That of the
men was thirty-six feet by twenty-three, and was divided into three
rooms. These buildings were placed on a dry sandy bank, about eighty
yards from the lake, and twenty-five feet above it; at the distance of a
half a mile in our rear, the ground rose to the height of one hundred
and fifty feet, and continued in an even ridge, on which, though the
timber had been felled, we found plenty of small trees for fuel. This
ridge bounded our view to the north; and to the west, though confined to
less than two miles, the prospect was pretty, from its embracing a small
lake, and the mouth of a narrow stream that flowed in at its head. Our
southern view commanded the south-west arm of Bear Lake, which is here
four miles wide, and not deeper than from three to five fathoms, except
in the channel of the river, which conveys its waters to the Mackenzie.
We had also, in front, the Clark-hill, a mountain about thirty-six miles
distant, which was always visible in clear weather. When the refraction
was great, we saw the tops of some other hills, belonging to the range
that extends from Clark-hill to the rapid in Bear Lake River.
Immediately under the sandy soil on which the house stood, there is a
bed of tenacious bluish clay, of unknown thickness, which, even in the
months of August and September, was firmly frozen at the depth of
twenty-one inches from the surface. No rocks were exposed in any part,
and wherever the surface had been torn up, a clayey soil appeared. Many
boulder stones of granite, limestone, sandstone and trap rocks, were
scattered about the lake, not far from the shore.
The trees at some distance from our fort consisted of black and white
spruce, and larch, generally small, though a few of the better grown
measured from four to five feet in girth, and were from fifty to
fifty-five feet high. Dr. Richardson ascertained, by counting the annual
rings, that some of them, in a sound state, were upwards of one hundred
and thirty years old; while others, which were not much greater in size,
had two hundred and fifty rings, but these were decayed at the heart.
The officers had done me the honour, previous to my arrival, of giving
the name of Franklin to the fort, which I felt a grateful pleasure in
retaining at their desire, though I had intended naming it Fort
Reliance. The number of persons belonging to the establishment amounted
to fifty: consisting of five officers, including Mr. Dease; nineteen
British seamen, marines, and voyagers; nine Canadians; two Esquimaux;
Beaulieu, and four Chipewyan hunters; three women, six children, and
one Indian lad; besides a few infirm Indians, who required temporary
support. This party was far too large to gain subsistence by fishing at
one station only; two houses were, therefore, constructed at four and
seven miles distance, from the fort, to which parties were sent,
provided with the necessary fishing implements; and not more than thirty
persons were left to reside at the principal establishment. From fifteen
to twenty nets were kept in use, under the superintendence of Pascal
Cote, an experienced fisherman, who had two assistants. These were
placed opposite the house, and towards the end of summer, and in autumn,
they yielded daily from three to eight hundred fish, of the kind called
"the Herring Salmon of Bear Lake," and occasionally some trout,
tittameg, and carp. Four Dog-Rib Indians, who were engaged to hunt the
Rein-deer in the neighbourhood of the fort, from want of skill,
contributed very little fresh meat to our store. Augustus and Ooligbuck
employed themselves in the same service, but from not being accustomed
to hunt in a woody country, they were not more successful.
The consideration of next importance to furnishing the party with food,
was to provide regular occupation for the men, who had not the resources
to employ their time which the officers possessed. Accordingly, some
were appointed to attend exclusively to the fishing nets, others to
bring home the meat whenever the hunters killed any deer; some were
stationed to fell wood for fuel, others to convey it to the house, and a
third set to split it for use. Two of the most expert travellers on
snow-shoes were kept in nearly constant employment conveying letters to
and from the posts in the Mackenzie and Slave Lake. As the days
shortened, it was necessary to find employment during the long evenings,
for those resident at the house, and a school was, therefore,
established on three nights of the week, from seven o'clock to nine, for
their instruction, in reading, writing, and arithmetic; and it was
attended by most of the British party. They were divided in equal
portions amongst the officers, whose labour was amply repaid by the
advancement their pupils made: some of those who began with the
alphabet, learned to read and write with tolerable correctness. Sunday
was a day of rest; and, with the exception of two or three of the
Canadians, the whole party uniformly attended Divine service, morning
and evening. If, on the other evenings for which no particular
occupation was appointed, the men felt the time tedious, or if they
expressed a wish to vary their employments, the hall was at their
service, to play any game they might choose; and on these occasions they
were invariably joined by the officers. By thus participating in their
amusements, the men became more attached to us, at the same time that we
contributed to their health and cheerfulness. The hearts and feelings of
the whole party were united into one common desire to make the time pass
as agreeably as possible to each other, until the return of spring
should enable them to resume the great object of the Expedition.
The officers found employment in making and registering the
thermometrical, magnetical, and atmospherical observations, which were
hourly noted from eight A.M. to midnight; and, in addition to the duties
which they had in common, each had a peculiar department allotted to
him.
Lieutenant Back had the superintendence of the men; and the accurate
drawings which he finished during the winter, from sketches taken on the
voyage, afford ample proof of his diligence and skill. Dr. Richardson,
besides the duties of medical officer, which, from the numerous
applications made by the natives, were not inconsiderable, devoted his
attention to natural history, as well as to a series of observations on
the force of the sun's radiation. Mr. Kendall constructed all the charts
after the data had been recalculated by myself; he also made several
drawings; and he undertook an interesting series of observations on the
velocity of sound. To Mr. Dease the charge was committed of whatever
related to the procuring and issuing of provision, and the entire
management of the Canadian voyagers and Indians.
Previous to the officers leaving London, Dr. Fitton, President of the
Geological Society, had the kindness to devote much of his time to their
instruction in geology; and having furnished them with a portable
collection for the purpose of reference on the voyage, Dr. Richardson,
when he had leisure, explained these specimens, weekly, to the party,
and assisted them in reading on this science, which proved a most
agreeable and useful recreation to us all.
Some of the preceding remarks refer to a period of our residence later
than that which I am about to enter upon; but I thought it best to
insert them here, that the mention of them might not interrupt the
narrative of occurrences which I shall now resume.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 8th.] On September 8th, two men were sent off to
Slave Lake, in a canoe, with a despatch, containing an account of our
proceedings, addressed to His Majesty's Secretary of State for the
Colonies; and as we expected letters from England, by the way of
Hudson's Bay, they directed to await their arrival at Slave Lake. There
was almost constant rain from the 11th to the 14th, which much retarded
the work going on out of doors, and particularly the construction of an
observatory, which we were desirous of completing as soon as possible,
that the magnetical observations might be commenced. We found
employment, however, in whitewashing and fitting up the interior of the
different houses. The 15th proving fine, we established a meridian line,
and ascertained the variation by each of the compasses.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 20th.] Beaulieu returned with his family, the
Chipewyan hunters, and some Dog-Ribs, bringing a supply of dried meat,
rein-deer tongues, and fat, sufficient for a month's consumption, which
was reserved for use when the fishing should become unproductive. These
men reported, that at the time they quitted the northern shores of the
lake, the deer were retiring towards this quarter; which intelligence
accounted for the Indians having killed four within a day's march from
the house.
[Sidenote: Friday, 23rd.] The chimney of the last of the buildings being
completed this morning, the flag-staff erected, and all the men
assembled, we commemorated these events by the festivities usual on the
opening of a new establishment in this country. The first part of the
ceremony was to salute the flag; the men having drawn themselves up in
line, and the women and children, and all the Indians resident at the
fort, being disposed in groups by their side, a deputation came to
solicit the presence of the officers. When we appeared, we found our
guns ornamented with blue ribbons, and we were requested to advance and
fire at a piece of money which was fastened to the flag-staff. The men
then fired two volleys and gave three hearty cheers, after which Wilson
the piper struck up a lively tune, and placing himself at the head of
his companions, marched with them round to the entrance of the hall,
where they drank to His Majesty's health, and to the success of the
Expedition. In the evening the hall was opened for a dance, which was
attended by the whole party, dressed in their gayest attire. The dancing
was kept up with spirit to the music of the violin and bagpipes, until
daylight.
[Sidenote: Monday, 26th.] These entertainments over, Beaulieu and the
hunters were despatched to the chase, and they soon added two moose-deer
to our store.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 27th.] There had been much rain in the course of the
preceding week, and the temperature was generally mild, but a fall of
snow took place on the 27th. Some Dog-Ribs came to the fort on that day
with the produce of their autumnal hunt, which was very inconsiderable,
but they rendered good service to us by taking away with them several of
their relations, who had been subsisting on our bounty for some time.
After their departure there only remained one man of the tribe, who,
being afflicted with rheumatic fever, was retained under the care of Dr.
Richardson. Warm clothing was provided for him, and a comfortable
leathern lodge was erected for himself and family.
[Sidenote: October, 1st.] The month of October commenced with frost and
snow, and the party were now furnished with fur caps, leathern mittens
and trowsers, and the rest of their warm winter-clothing. This day we
completed the erection of the observatory, and adjusted an instrument to
the magnetic meridian, for the purpose of observing the variations of
the needle.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 11th.] Much snow fell on the night of the 7th, and
on the 11th the small lake was firmly frozen over, and the ground in the
same state. All the migratory birds being now gone, except a few ducks,
which still lingered in the open water of Bear Lake, we considered this
day to be the first of the winter. It was remarkably clear and fine, and
we hailed the commencement of this season with a degree of pleasure,
from its contrast with the wet unsettled weather which marks the close
of summer. A few clouds passing over the sun's disk, produced an
instantaneous depression of ten degrees of the mercury in a thermometer
exposed to the sun's rays. The atmospherical refraction was remarkably
strong at this time. We had repeated opportunities, in the course of the
winter, of observing it to be greatest in similar states of the
atmosphere.
The boats were now secured for the winter in a sheltered place, and
screened as much as possible from the effects of the wind and snow
drift, by a strong fence made of boughs and branches.
[Sidenote: Friday, 14th.] We were surprised on the 14th by the arrival
of two Canadians from Fort Norman, with letters from Governor Simpson,
and other gentlemen in the southern districts, containing satisfactory
answers to the requisitions for stores that I had made in my passage
through the country. We were also pleased to learn that Thomas Matthews,
the carpenter, whom we had left at Cumberland House, on account of his
leg being broken, had reached Fort Norman, in the Company's canoe; and I
felt much indebted to Mr. James Keith, and Mr. Smith, Chief Factors,
for the care and tenderness with which they had conveyed him through the
country.
The season at which the ice begins to form, is the most favourable for
fishing in the lakes of this country, and we then procured from four to
five hundred daily. Those not required for immediate consumption, were
hung on a stage to freeze, in which state they keep until the following
spring. But we could not derive the full advantage from the season,
because the drift ice, making it unsafe to keep the nets set in Bear
Lake, they were taken up on the 18th. Near a month elapsed before they
could be set with safety under the ice; our first attempts resulting in
the loss of three nets. We procured, however, a few fish from the small
lake, during this interval, and the rest of our food was supplied from
the store of dried meat.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 20th.] We were visited on the 20th by a storm of
snow, which continued, without intermission, for thirty-six hours.
Although it put an end to the skating, and the games on the ice, which
had been our evenings' amusement for the preceding week, yet the change
made every one glad, because the snow was now deep enough for winter
travelling. We had learned, some days before, that the hunters had
stored fifteen rein-deer in the woods, and on the 22nd four men were
despatched with sledges to bring them to the fort.
The first throw off of the dog-sledges for the season never fails to
attract general attention; accordingly the whole party was collected to
witness it on this occasion. They set off at full speed, and were soon
out of sight. From this time dog-sledges were used to drag the fuel,
which had been hitherto done by the men. We sent a party to cut down
timber, and saw it into planks, fit for the construction of another
boat.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 26th.] On the 26th the thermometer first fell
below zero, but the month closed with a very calm, mild day. Mr. Kendall
and I were employed in measuring a geographical mile on the small lake,
preparatory to a series of observations on the velocity of sound. The
only ferine companions we now had were a few hardy quadrupeds and birds,
capable of enduring the winter. The variety of the former was confined
to wolves, foxes, martens, hares, mice, and a few rein-deer. Of the
feathered tribe, there were the raven and Canadian crow, some
snow-birds, wood-peckers, red-caps, crossbeaks, Canada, rock, and willow
partridges, and a few hawks and owls.
[Sidenote: November, 9th.] Having received information that the Hudson's
Bay Company intended sending their annual despatch from the Mackenzie
River to York Factory, by the close of this month, and the ice on Bear
Lake and the Mackenzie River being, on the 9th, sufficiently strong, we
forwarded a packet of letters to Fort Norman, and a dog-sledge to convey
Thomas Matthews to this place. On the 15th the nets were reset under the
ice, and we were relieved from the necessity of putting the party on
short allowance. We had the additional pleasure of learning that the
hunters had killed ten rein-deer. The men returned from Fort Norman on
the 18th, accompanied by Thomas Matthews, whose leg was yet too weak for
him to walk more than a short distance.
During the middle, and towards the close of November, parheliae were
frequent; the most brilliant appeared on the 27th; it continued as long
as the sun was above the horizon. The atmosphere was cloudless, and
apparently free from haze, except just about the sun, which seemed to
gleam through a fog. The surrounding circle was nearly complete, and
displayed the prismatic colours vividly; from the centre of the sun's
disk a beam of bright light extended upwards several degrees beyond the
circle. The inner radius of the circle measured 21 degrees 34 minutes,
and the outer 22 degrees 50 minutes. The wind blew fresh all the day
from E.N.E., and the temperature was 10 degrees. In the evening the moon
was encircled by two distinct halos; temperature 7 degrees.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 29th.] This morning the principal leader of the
Dog-Ribs, and a large party of his tribe, came to the Fort. It is usual
for Indians, on the first visit to an establishment, to make their
approach in line, with much formality; but on this occasion our visitors
showed an unusual degree of caution. Their distrust had originated in a
very trifling occurrence at the close of our house-warming festivities
on the 23rd of September. Some of the Canadians having asked Mr. Dease
if our Highlandmen did not come from the same country with the rest of
the English party, were told that they were natives of the mountainous
lands, or _Montagnards_. This name unfortunately being used by the
voyagers to designate the Dog-Ribs, was considered by the Highlanders to
be a term of reproach when applied to themselves, and a scuffle ensued.
Harmony was soon restored by the officers sending the most noisy to bed,
and next morning the true meaning of the word Montagnard was explained
to the Highlandmen, and the party set about their usual occupations with
their wonted good feeling towards each other. Not so with an unlucky
Dog-Rib, who had been attracted to the scene by hearing the name
applied by the voyagers to his countrymen bandied about from one to the
other, and thrusting his head into the crowd had received a blow. This
at once confirmed all his fears, and he fled to spread a report amongst
his countrymen that the white people intended to destroy the Indians.
Although his report was not fully believed, yet it produced the feeling
of distrust which the Indians manifested on their approach to the house.
It was entirely removed by the explanation we gave. These Indians having
brought a quantity of furs for the Hudson's Bay Company, as well as
dried meat for ourselves, and I having understood from Mr. Dease that it
would be an accommodation to them if they were permitted to deposit
their furs at this place, instead of carrying them to Fort Norman, I
acceded to this suggestion, and directed Mr. Dease to advance from our
stores the goods required for the purchase of the furs, which were to be
returned when we should visit that fort in the spring.
An old man belonging to the Company's establishment at Fort Norman
arrived this day with his wife, to stay some time with us, because the
supply of provision had failed at that post. We felt much pleasure in
sharing our means with this aged couple, who were much reduced by their
late scanty fare.
The close of November was marked by a succession of strong east winds,
and a mildness of temperature, rare at this season. On the 30th the
thermometer rose from +18 degrees to 29 degrees above zero, on the
occurrence of a gale from the north.
[Sidenote: December, 1st.] The first of December being a cloudless day,
we endeavoured to observe the latitude at noon, but failed, owing to the
extraordinary atmospherical refraction. [Sidenote: Friday, 2nd.] At
midnight, on the 2nd, there was a shower of hail, so small that we could
hardly distinguish it from rain. Dr. Richardson thought he perceived
lightning. Temperature +22 degrees, calm. On the night of the 4th
another instance of a sudden increase of temperature from +7 degrees to
26 degrees was observed, on a north wind succeeding a calm.
The fishery having gradually declined for some days, our nets were
removed nearer to the entrance of Bear Lake River, where the current
continued to keep the water open for a considerable space. We then
procured a daily supply of fish sufficient for the rations of the
household, as well as the dogs, though our number was now increased by
the party from the more distant fishery, which had proved unproductive.
The allowance was seven of the herring salmon to a man per day, and two
to each dog.
The shortness of the days now precluding the Indians from hunting, many
came, according to their custom, to spear fish at the head of Bear Lake
River, and their numbers gradually increased. They were not, however,
successful, nor diligent, preferring to beg what they could from us, and
sending their women and children to subsist on the offal of the fish
used at the fort. To encourage them to greater exertion, I provided them
with nets, and other fishing materials, but their indolence led them to
make a very ungrateful return; for on several occasions they emptied our
nets in the night, and thus not only robbed us of what they took away,
but, by deranging the nets, deprived us of the whole of that day's
supply. We never could ascertain the perpetrators of these thefts. The
blame was invariably thrown on some aged and infirm men, who denied it.
Notwithstanding the straits to which they became reduced, they could not
be persuaded to go off to a more productive fishery, until we were
compelled to withhold all supplies, from fear of starving our own party.
These Indians showed more indolence, and less regard for truth and
honesty, than any other tribes with which we had dealings. Their
sufferings are often extreme, and some of them perish every year from
famine; although, from the abundance of fish in this country, but slight
exertion would be required to lay up, at the proper seasons, a stock for
the whole year.
The difficulty of procuring nourishment frequently induces the women of
this tribe to destroy their female children. Two pregnant women of the
party then at the fort, made known their intention of acting on this
inhuman custom, though Mr. Dease threatened them with our heaviest
displeasure if they put it into execution: we learned that, after they
left us, one actually did destroy her child; the infant of the other
woman proved to be a boy. Infanticide is mentioned by Hearne as a common
crime amongst the northern Indians, but this was the first instance that
came under our notice, and I understand it is now very rare amongst the
Chipewyan tribes;--an improvement in their moral character which may be
fairly attributed to the influence of the traders resident among them.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 18th.] On the 18th a party of sixteen Hare Indians,
two Copper Indians, and a Loucheux, arrived with sledges of dried
rein-deer meat and furs. While the house was in confusion from the
unpacking of their lading, a melancholy scene took place, which excited
the warmest sympathy. The wife of one of our Dog-Rib hunters brought her
only child, a female, for medical advice. As she entered the room it was
evident that the hand of death was upon it. In the absence of Dr.
Richardson, who happened to be out, all the remedies were applied that
were judged likely to be of service; and as soon as he returned, there
being yet a faint pulsation, other means were tried, but in vain. So
gentle was its last sigh, that the mother was not at first aware of its
death, and continued to press the child against her bosom. As soon,
however, as she perceived that life had fled, she cast herself on the
floor in agony, heightened by the consciousness of having delayed to
seek relief till too late, and by apprehension of the anger of her
husband, who was doatingly attached to the child. The Indians evinced
their participation in her affliction by silence, and a strong
expression of pity in their countenances. At the dawn of day the poor
creature, though almost exhausted by her ceaseless lamentation, carried
the body across the lake for interment.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 20th.] The 20th being a very stormy day, we were
surprised at the arrival of two voyagers from Fort Good Hope, bearers of
letters from Mr. C. Dease, conveying the gratifying intelligence that
the Loucheux had seen the Esquimaux since the autumn, and that the
latter had found the presents which had been left at their huts, and
would be delighted to welcome the return of the white people to the
Esquimaux lands next spring.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 22d.] Our constant occupations had made the time
pass so swiftly, that the shortest day came almost unexpectedly upon us.
The sun rose this morning, (the 22d,) at 10h 24m, thirteen minutes
earlier than its appearance was expected from calculation, owing to the
great refraction. Mr. Kendall and I measured its meridional altitude
from the lake with two instruments, the one bringing its upper limb to
the top of the land four miles distant, the elevation of which had been
ascertained to be eight minutes, and the other to its base, the
depression of which was two minutes. The mean of both these
observations, corrected for refraction by the tables in the Nautical
Almanack, gave a result of 65 degrees 11 minutes 56 seconds N., which
latitude exactly corresponds with the best observations made in the
preceding autumn. At 8h 30m P.M. a halo was observed, whose radius
measured 28 degrees 40 minutes from the moon; and at an equal altitude
with the latter body there were two paraselenae, which, as well as the
moon, were intersected by a luminous circle, having the zenith for its
centre, and a diameter of 94 degrees 15 minutes. The length of our
shortest day did not exceed five hours, but the long nights were
enlivened by most brilliant moon-light, and we had frequent and very
fine appearances of the Aurora Borealis. The latter phenomenon made some
of its grandest displays on the 26th of October, the 2d of November,
and the 7th of December. On all these occasions the disturbed motions of
the magnetic needle were very remarkable, and a most careful series of
observations convinced the party that they had a close connexion with
the direction of the beams of light of which the aurora was composed. My
observations also led me to conclude that the deviations of the needle
were, in a certain degree, connected with changes in the weather; for,
previous to a gale or a snow-storm, the deviations were always
considerable; but during the continuance of the gale, the needle almost
invariably remained stationary.
Preparations were made for the celebration of Christmas. The house was
replastered with mud, all the rooms whitewashed and repainted, and
Matthews displayed his taste by ornamenting a chandelier with cut paper,
and trinkets. On the evening of the 24th the Indian hunters' women and
children were invited to share in a game of snap-dragon, to them an
entire novelty. It would be as difficult to describe the delight which
the sport afforded them after they recovered their first surprise, as to
convey the full effect of the scene. When the candles were extinguished,
the blue flame of the burning spirits shone on the rude features of our
native companions, in whose countenances were pourtrayed the eager desire
of possessing the fruit, and the fear of the penalty. Christmas Day
falling on a Sunday, the party were regaled with the best fare our
stores could supply; and on the following evening a dance was given, at
which were present sixty persons, including the Indians, who sat as
spectators of the merry scene. Seldom, perhaps, in such a confined space
as our hall, or in the same number of persons, was there greater variety
of character, or greater confusion of tongues. The party consisted of
Englishmen, Highlanders, (who mostly conversed with each other in
Gaelic,) Canadians, Esquimaux, Chipewyans, Dog-Ribs, Hare Indians, Cree
women and children, mingled together in perfect harmony. The amusements
were varied by English, Gaelic, and French songs. After these holidays
were over, the Dog-Ribs at length yielded to the repeated solicitations
of Mr. Dease, and removed in a body to a distant part of the lake, where
they now confessed the fishery was more abundant. As the hunters were
drawing rations from our store, he despatched them in quest of deer,
furnishing them also with nets. After which there remained at the
establishment, only one infirm Indian and his wife.
[Sidenote: January, 1st.] January 1st, 1826. This morning the men called
in the hall to offer the congratulations of the season to the officers,
and we afterwards assembled to read divine service. On the evening of
the 2nd, similar festivities were held to those at Christmas, to welcome
the new year. The temperature was at -49 degrees on the 1st, which was
its lowest state during this winter. This severe weather was of short
continuance, for on the 3rd there was a storm of snow, and the
thermometer rose to -9 degrees.
[Sidenote: 4th.] Accompanied by Mr. Dease, and Fuller, the carpenter, I
walked several miles in search of birch-trees fit for the keel and
timbers of the new boat. We found some that would answer for the latter
purpose, but none for the keel; we, therefore, substituted pine. The
general depth of snow in the woody and sheltered parts was two feet.
[Sidenote: Monday, 16th.] On the 16th, by the return of the two men who
had been sent to Slave Lake, we had the happiness of receiving a packet
of letters, which left England in the preceding June. Beside the more
interesting private communications, our friends had been kind enough to
forward piles of newspapers, and several periodical publications. The
'Quarterly Review,' the 'Edinburgh Philosophical Journal,' and a series
of the 'Literary Gazette,' and the 'Mechanics' Magazine,' were spread
upon the table, and afforded us the most agreeable amusement, as well as
never-failing topics for conversation. Could any of our friends have
dropped in upon us, in the evening, they would have found us discussing
the events of the by-gone year, with all the earnestness and interest
which we could have shown had they been the occurrences of the day, and
depended upon our decision. This valuable packet had nigh been lost on
its way through the interior, owing to the treachery of an Indian. The
fellow had undertaken to guide the Canadian servants of the Hudson Bay
Company, who had it in charge, from York Factory to Cumberland House;
but supposing, from its being unusual to forward packets at that season,
that it must contain something of value, he seized an opportunity, when
the two men had gone a little way from the river side, to steal the
canoe, with its contents, and cross the river. There were no means of
pursuit, and the poor men, destitute of food, without a gun, or even the
means of making a fire, were obliged to march to the nearest
establishment, through a very rugged and thickly-wooded country. They
reached it after many days travelling, and much suffering, and as soon
as they arrived, Mr. Mackintosh, the chief of the department,
immediately sent off different parties in search of the culprit. They
did not find him, though they got possession of the packet, which was
torn open, and the letters scattered upon the ground. I need hardly
mention that I afterwards remunerated the Canadians for their
sufferings and good conduct on this occasion.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 22nd.] On the morning of the 22nd we perceived a gray
wolf crossing the lake, and Augustus and Ooligbuck went in pursuit. The
speed of the animal, however, so much outstripped theirs, that it cooly
halted to snap up an unfortunate fox which happened to cross its path,
and bore it off in triumph. The visits of this animal were repeated for
three successive days, and it at last became so bold as to steal fish,
on two occasions, from a sledge which the dogs were accustomed to draw
home from the nets, without a driver. The dogs were not touched, but
this was accounted for when the wolf was killed, and found to be a
female, as Mr. Dease informed us that at this season of the year the
female wolves never attack the dog.
[Sidenote: February.] The month of February was a very anxious period of
our winter's residence. The produce of the nets and fishing lines had
been gradually diminishing during January, until the supply did not
afford more than three or four of the small herrings per man; and none
could be furnished to the dogs. The stock of dried meat was expended,
and serious apprehensions were entertained of the party's suffering from
want of food. The fish too, from being out of season, afforded very
little nourishment, and frequent indisposition was the consequence with
us all. Three of the stoutest men with whom this diet particularly
disagreed, suffered very much from diarrhoea. It became, therefore,
necessary to draw upon the stores of provision which had been set apart
for the voyage along the sea-coast, and, on the 6th, we despatched three
sledges to Fort Norman, for some pemmican, arrow root, and portable
soup: they were likewise to bring any iron that could be procured from
that establishment fit for being converted into nails or fastenings for
the intended boat. This being the last opportunity of the season for
forwarding letters to the southern department, I wrote to Governor
Simpson and the council at York Factory, requesting that supplies of
provisions might be stored for the Expedition, on the route to Canada
and York Factory, and that the necessary means of conveyance might be
provided for its return in 1827. All these arrangements requiring to be
made a year in advance, I included the whole party in the estimate of
the numbers to be provided for, that there might be no want of
provision, if the western part of the Expedition should, from any cause,
be obliged to retrace its steps. By the same conveyance I sent an
account of our proceedings, with maps and drawings, to be forwarded to
the Colonial Office.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 4th.] On the 4th of this month, when all were
heartily tired of short allowance, a report was brought of the traces of
a moose deer having been seen about twelve miles from the fort. Had the
days been longer, and a crust formed upon the snow, the hunters would
have found no great difficulty in running down the animal, but our
principal hope lay in their getting within shot without "raising
it,"--the expression used when a deer is scared. Beaulieu being the most
expert moose-hunter, went out on this occasion, accompanied by two
others, Landre a Chipewyan lad, and a Dog-Rib hunter. When they arrived
on the deer's track, they found that it had been raised, probably by the
Indians who first discovered it; but anxious to procure meat for the
fort, they commenced the pursuit. From their knowledge of the habits of
the animal, and of the winding course it takes, they were enabled to
shorten the distance; but after running four successive days without
coming in sight, Beaulieu had the misfortune to fall over the stump of a
tree, and sprain his ankle; the other two hunters being previously tired
out. When this accident happened, they knew they were near the deer, and
that it would soon give in, because its footsteps were stained with
blood. Beaulieu, however, on account of his lameness, returned to the
house, and his companions came with him. During the chase they
bivouacked on the snow, and subsisted on a few ptarmigan which they
killed. Landre after a night's rest, again set out, and was successful
after two more day's running; not, however, without having nearly lost
his life, for the moose, on receiving a shot, made a rush at him,
striking furiously with his fore feet. He had just time to shelter
himself behind a tree, upon which the animal spent its efforts, until
his gun was again ready.
Landre's arrival with the joyful intelligence of his success, was hailed
as the commencement of a season of plenty. When the moose meat was
brought in, we had not an ounce of provision in store, and it was,
therefore, most acceptable; although, from the manner in which it was
hunted down, it proved exceedingly tough. [Sidenote: Friday, 10th.] In
the evening, to increase our satisfaction, an Indian arrived with the
information that the fish were plentiful at the station to which the
Dog-Ribs had removed, and likewise that the hunters belonging to the
fort had killed some rein-deer near their lodges. We immediately
equipped four men with nets and lines, and sent them back with the
Indian, giving them directions to report whether more persons could gain
subsistence there. Their report, a few days afterwards, being
favourable, four more men were despatched thither. They sent us some
tittameg, weighing from six to eight pounds, which were the more
acceptable, because none of that kind had been taken in our nets since
the lake had been frozen over. By the time the moose was finished, the
men came back from Fort Norman, with three bags of pemmican, which
enabled us to continue the daily issue of rations, though the fare was
still scanty.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 25th] On the 25th, Beaulieu, accompanied by two
men, went off in one direction, and the Dog-Rib hunters in another, in
search of deer. Both parties were successful. From the former we
received a summons, after four days' absence, to send sledges for meat,
but not so from the Dog-Ribs, for they, to compensate for their long
abstinence, consumed almost all the meat, and gorged themselves to such
a degree, that they were unable to move, and became quite ill. From this
period we had a sufficient supply of provision, because the fisheries
improved, and we received deer from time to time. The men who had been
indisposed gained strength, from the increased quantity, and amended
quality, of their food; and we had also the gratification of seeing the
dogs daily fatten, amidst the general plenty. The conduct of the men
during the season of scarcity was beyond all praise; and the following
anecdote is worthy of record, as displaying the excellent feeling of a
British seaman, and as speaking the sentiments of the whole party.
Talking with Robert Spinks as to the difference of his present food,
from that to which he had been accustomed on board ship, I said I was
glad the necessity was over of keeping them on short allowance. "Why,
sir," said he, "we never minded about the short allowance, but were
fearful of having to use the pemmican intended for next summer; we only
care about the next voyage, and shall all be glad when the spring comes,
that we may set off; besides, at the worst time, we could always spare a
fish for each of our dogs." During the period of short allowance, the
three dogs under the charge of this man were kept in better condition
than any of the others.
We now called the men home from the nearest fishery, and set their nets
near the Bear Lake River, but the men at the distant station with the
Indians were kept there, and occasionally supplied the fort with fine
tittameg and trout. The otters did considerable mischief to our nets at
this time; six of these animals were seen in one day.
Many parheliae were observed this month. On the 14th, at forty-five
minutes after nine A.M., the arched form of the clouds, and the
appearance of a collection of rays projected from the sun's disk in the
shape of a fan, strongly resembled the coruscations of the aurora. The
atmosphere was misty; temperature in the shade +8 degrees 5 minutes; and
when the thermometer with a blackened bulb was exposed to the sun's
rays, it rose to +43 degrees. The magnetic needle, at nine A.M., was
perceived to have made a greater deviation to the westward than usual at
that hour, and I imagine that the cause of this increase probably arose
from the atmosphere being then in a state of electricity, similar to
that in which it is when the aurora appears in hazy weather; on which
occasions we have observed that its coruscations have the strongest
effect in causing aberrations of the needle. A violent gale from the
north-west commenced on the 26th, and lasted, without intermission, for
thirty-six hours.
[Sidenote: March, 1st.] The early part of this month was marked by a
succession of gales from the N.W., with a few intervals of moderate
weather, in which the wind came from the east, and was attended by a
clearer atmosphere than usually accompanies easterly winds in the colder
months. We observed, with pleasure, on the 7th, that the sun had
sufficient power to soften the snow in exposed places, and to form
icicles from the roofs which had a southern aspect, but the return of
strong winds from the W.N.W. brought back severe weather. [Sidenote:
Saturday, 11th.] On the 11th there was a violent gust of wind, which, in
its passage over the lake, gathered up the snow in a column, similar to
that of a waterspout. Dr. Richardson made an excursion for the purpose
of examining the rocks to the north of the establishment. He returned
after two days, the snow being too deep for him to obtain specimens. The
description he gave of a view from an eminence nine miles behind the
fort, induced Lieutenant Back and me to visit the spot, and we were
amply repaid for the walk. The view embraced the mountains on the
borders of the Mackenzie to the west, a considerable portion of Bear
Lake River, with the mountains near its rapids, Clark's Hill to the
south, and the range of elevated land stretching to the east till they
were lost in the distance. To the N.E. there appeared several small
lakes, and the view was terminated by a portion of Bear Lake.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 21st.] The Chipewyan hunters who had been absent
since Christmas, returned to us with their families, and brought with
them a Dog-Rib girl, about twelve years old, who had been deserted by
her tribe. When they found her, she was in the last stage of weakness,
from famine, sitting by the expiring embers of a fire, and but for their
timely appearance, death must soon have ended her sufferings. They fed
and clothed her, and waited until she gained strength to accompany them.
The wretches who had abandoned the poor creature, were on their way to a
fishing station, which they knew to be very productive, and not above a
day's march distant. She was unable to keep the pace at which they chose
to proceed, and having no near relation but an aged aunt, who could not
assist her, they left her at an encampment without any food. The hunters
met this party of Indians about a month afterwards, when they were
living in abundance. The girl, by that time, had perfectly recovered her
strength, and they desired that she should be restored to them, but the
hunters firmly resisted their importunity, and one of them adopted her
as his own child. It is singular that she was the only female of the
tribe that could be called good-looking. Her Indian name was
Aton-larree, which the interpreter translated, Burnt-weed. Lieutenant
Back made a sketch of her, in the dress which the hunter's wife gave to
her on their first meeting. When the Indians came to the fort, I took
the first opportunity of their being assembled in the hall, to send for
the hunters and their wives, and to reward them by a substantial present
of clothing and ammunition. I also gave to them some neat steel
instruments, consisting of gimblets, and other useful articles, which
they were desired to preserve, and show to other Indians, as a testimony
of our approbation of their humanity. A present was also bestowed upon
the girl, and then the Dog-Ribs were addressed as to their unfeeling
conduct towards her. They listened quietly, and merely stated her
weakness as the cause. There is little doubt but that the transactions
of this day were canvassed afterwards, and it is to be hoped that the
knowledge of our sentiments gaining circulation, may induce a
discontinuance of their inhuman practices.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 22nd.] By the men who had conveyed our last packet
to Fort Simpson, we received intelligence that some Chipewyans had
brought information to the Athabasca and Slave Lakes, of their having
seen many indications of a party of white people on the sea coast
eastward of the Coppermine River. The report stated, that they had
found, in the preceding autumn, on the borders of a river near the
sea-coast, a sawpit, some saws, and axes, and a store of deer's meat.
There was snow on the ground, and the footsteps of the party appeared
recent. We concluded from these statements, that Captain Parry had laid
up his ships in the vicinity of Bathurst's Inlet, and sent
hunting-parties up the river to augment his stock of provision. I
therefore despatched two men with letters to Mr. M'Vicar, at Slave Lake,
containing a series of questions, that the matter might be thoroughly
investigated, and requested him to transmit the answers to the
Admiralty. I likewise begged of him immediately to procure a party of
Indians to go to the spot, and convey a letter from me to Captain Parry,
in order that they might either be employed as hunters for the ships, or
carry their letters to the nearest establishment for conveyance to
England. Had the information reached us sooner, so that a party could
have gone from Bear Lake to the point at which the ships were, and
returned before the men were wanted, I should have sent to ascertain the
fact. The idea of the ships being on the northern coast, the prospect of
their success, and the expectation of the eastern detatchment meeting
them in the summer, afforded enlivening topics of conversation for
several days, and on the day the intelligence came, we celebrated its
arrival with a bowl of punch. The health of Captain Parry, and his
party, as well as that of Captain Beechey, was drank with enthusiasm.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 23rd.] We obtained observations for the time, from
which it appeared that the chronometer, No. 1733, generously lent to the
Expedition by my friend the late Mr. Moore, had only varied its rate two
hundredths of a second, since the 3rd of November. I had worn it next my
skin, suspended round my neck, the whole time; and, consequently, it was
not exposed to much variation of temperature.
After the middle of this month the N.W. winds gave place to a succession
of easterly breezes; whenever these prevailed, we observed the
terrestrial refraction was much increased; double refraction of the land
was not unfrequent, and twice the mist arising from the open water,
appeared like a wall of ice. When the moon shone, halos, and
occasionally paraselenae, were visible; and towards the close of the
month the coruscations of the aurora were often very brilliant.
During this month I noticed that on several occasions the magnetic
needle oscillated when I approached it in a dress of waterproof cloth,
although it remained stationary when others of the party examined it in
their ordinary garments. The waterproof dress probably acted by exciting
electricity in the body, although this opinion is rather contradicted by
the fact of a fur cap, which had been rubbed by the hand until it
affected the gold leaf electrometer, producing no change in the needle,
and my approach to the electrometer not causing the gold-leaf to expand.
[Sidenote: April, 6th.] Having failed in an attempt to make charcoal for
the blacksmith's use at this place, we despatched William Duncan, and
the blacksmith, to make some at Fort Norman, where birch trees are
plentiful; and on the 6th of April we were glad to see them return with
the first load. The carpenters had already prepared the timbers and the
keel for the new boat, and we were waiting for the coals to get the
iron-work forward.
[Sidenote: Monday, 10th.] On the 10th Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendall
left the fort on snow-shoes, accompanied by an Indian guide, and a man
driving a dog-sledge with provisions, for the purpose of completing the
survey of Great Bear Lake, which Dr. Richardson had commenced the
preceding autumn. The day was remarkably warm; the blackened
thermometer, exposed to the sun, rose to +90; and we hailed with delight
a complete thaw. Cheered by the prospect, a spot was cleared of snow,
the keel of the boat laid down, and that there might be no delay, all
the sledges we could spare were despatched to fetch the remainder of the
charcoal from Fort Norman. [Sidenote: Tuesday, 11th.] On the following
day water was dripping from the roofs, and the flies were active within
the rooms. The continuance of mild weather for six days caused a rapid
decay of the snow, but no spots of land became visible. The men returned
with the charcoal, and from them we learned that the season was more
backward here than in the vicinity of Fort Norman. In the evening of the
17th, a telescope was put up in the meridian for finding the rates of
the chronometers by the transit of Arcturus. [Sidenote: Wednesday,
19th.] On the 19th, thirty Hare-Indians arrived with sledges, bringing
their winter's collection of furs for the Hudson Bay Company, and a
large supply of dried meat for us, which, with the stock already in
store, put us quite at ease respecting food until the season for our
departure. The party consisted mostly of young lads, who, very
good-naturedly, sang and danced for our amusement all the evening. They
also gave us specimens of the dances in use among the Loucheux, which
were more graceful than their own. The tune they sung to the
Medicine-dance of the Loucheux, struck me as being soft and pretty. The
ludicrous attitudes and grotesque figures of the dancers, as they
wheeled in a circle, shaking the knives and feathers which they had
between their fingers were happily sketched by Lieutenant Back.
As the fish had withdrawn from the open water at the commencement of the
fine weather, the nets were brought nearer to the house; but we did not
obtain more than thirty fish daily. This diminution, however, gave us no
concern, as we had plenty of meat. Shortly afterwards the trout began
again to take bait, and we caught several of large size. Easterly winds
prevailed this month, and they blew uninterruptedly from the 21st to the
last day. A storm, on the 28th and 29th, delayed the carpenters working
at the boat: the patches of ground which had for the last few days been
visible, were again covered with snow, and the general aspect was bleak
and wintry.
Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendall returned on the 1st of May, and we were
furnished with the following particulars of their journey. Their course,
on leaving us, was first directed to the fishery in Mac Vicar's Bay,
which they reached on the fourth day, and from whence, taking with them
another sledge-load of provisions and an additional attendant, they
continued their journey to the bottom of Mac Tavish Bay, the most
easterly part of the Lake. The reduction in their stock of provisions
now caused them to commence their return, and they reached the fort
after an absence of three weeks, during which, in very unfavourable
weather, they travelled about three hundred and eighty miles. Dr.
Richardson had sailed four hundred and eighty miles through the lake in
the autumn, and in the two excursions, five hundred miles of its shores
were delineated, and the positions of many points established by
astronomical observations. About twenty miles of the north shore of Mac
Tavish Bay are the only parts of the Bear Lake remaining unsurveyed.
[Sidenote: May, 1st.] The following brief description of Bear Lake is
extracted from Dr. Richardson's Journal:--
"Great Bear Lake is formed by the union of five arms or bays, which were
named after Messrs. Keith, Smith, Dease, Mac Tavish, and Mac Vicar, of
the Hudson's Bay Company. The principal feeding-stream, named Dease
River, rises in the Copper Mountains, and falls into the upper end of
Dease Bay, which is the most northern part of the lake, and Bear Lake
River, which conveys the waters of the lake to the Mackenzie, issues
from Keith Bay, the most southerly arm. Mac Tavish Bay is the most
easterly portion of the lake, and Smith Bay, which lies opposite to it,
runs to the westward. Mac Vicar Bay has a southerly direction nearly
parallel to Keith Bay. The length of the lake, from Dease River to Bear
Lake River, is about one hundred and seventy-five miles; and its
breadth, from the bottom of Smith Bay to the bottom of Mac Tavish Bay,
is one hundred and fifty miles. A range of granite hills skirts the
bottom of Mac Tavish Bay. The Great Bear Mountain, at whose base some
bituminous shale cliffs are exposed, is about nine hundred feet high,
and separates Mac Vicar and Keith Bays; a similar mountain lies betwixt
Keith and Smith Bays. In Dease Bay, limestone and sandstone are the
prevailing rocks. The waters of the lake are very clear, and of unknown
depth; forty-fathoms of line were let down near the shore, in Mac Tavish
Bay, without reaching the bottom. There is a considerable quantity of
good wood, principally white spruce, in the vicinity of the lake; but
there is reason to believe that, before many years elapse, it will
become scarce, for it is very slow of growth, and the natives every year
set fire to it in various quarters, and thus destroy it for many miles.
The finest timber was observed on the west side of Great Bear Lake
Mountain. There are good fisheries in Dease Bay, and in various other
quarters of the lake; but the fish taken in Mac Vicar Bay are remarkably
fine and abundant at all seasons of the year. The principal advantage of
the site chosen for Fort Franklin, is its vicinity to the Bear Lake
River, and the great quantity of fish that can be procured at certain
seasons, although they are small and of inferior quality."
On the 5th of this month, the men being called in from the fishery in
Mac Vicar Bay, the whole party was once more assembled at the house,
anxiously looking forward to the arrival of spring. We hailed the
appearance of swans, on the following day, as a sure sign of its
approach. A goose was seen on the 7th, two ducks on the 8th, and on the
9th several gulls were observed in the open water near the Bear Lake
River. The snow, at this time, was rapidly diminishing from the surface
of the lake, and there were many spots of ground visible. We, therefore,
commenced the preparations for the summer's voyage. The seamen were
employed in repairing the coverings and sails of the boats, as well as
in refitting their rigging, and occupation was allotted to every person
in the establishment. These operations requiring the constant
superintendence of the officers, the observations of the magnetic-needle
were discontinued. After the middle of the month, we were visited by
occasional showers of rain, which removed the snow, and produced a
perceptible decay of the ice.
On the 23d, the ice broke away from the shore of the small lake, and
also of Bear Lake, in front of the house. Swans and geese were now daily
passing to the northward; many shots were fired at them, both by the
Indians and our own party, but only a few were killed. The geese were
principally of the kind known to naturalists by the name of Canada
geese, and denominated bustards by the voyagers. Numbers of white geese
also passed; we saw only two flocks of laughing-geese. The first swallow
came on the 16th, and, on the following day, many others arrived. A
variety of ducks, gulls, and many of the small aquatic birds, now
frequented the marshy borders of the little lake, which afforded
constant amusement to the sportsmen, and full occupation to Dr.
Richardson in preparing the skins for specimens.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 24th.] On the 24th, the musquitoes appeared,
feeble at first, but, after a few days, they became vigorous and
tormenting. The first flower, a tussilago, was gathered on the 27th.
Before the close of the month, several others were in bloom, of which
the most abundant was the white anemone (_anemone tenella_.) The
leaf-buds had not yet burst, though just ready to open.
The carpenters had now finished the new boat, which received the name of
the Reliance. It was constructed of fir, with birch timbers, after the
model of our largest boat, the Lion, but with a more full bow, and a
finer run abaft. Its length was about twenty-six feet, and breadth five
feet eight inches. It was fastened in the same manner as the other
boats, but with iron instead of copper, and to procure sufficient nails
we were obliged to cut up all the spare axes, trenches[2], and
ice-chisels. Being without tar, we substituted strips of waterproof
canvas, soaked in some caoutchouc varnish, which we had brought out, to
lay between the seams of the planks; and for paint, we made use of
resin, procured from the pine-trees, boiled and mixed with grease. The
other boats were afterwards put in complete repair. The Lion required
the most, in consequence of the accident in Bear Lake River. The defects
in the other two principally arose from their having been repaired at
Cumberland House with the elm that grows in its vicinity, and is very
spongy. We now substituted white spruce fir, which, when grown in these
high latitudes, is an excellent wood for boat-building. We were
surprised to find, that, notwithstanding the many heavy blows these
boats had received in their passage to this place, there was not a
timber that required to be changed.
In our bustle, we would gladly have dispensed with the presence of the
Dog-Ribs, who now visited us in great numbers, without bringing any
supplies. They continued hanging about the fort, and their daily
drumming and singing over the sick, the squalling of the children, and
bawling of the men and women, proved no small annoyance. We were
pleased, however, at perceiving that the ammunition we had given to them
in return for meat, had enabled them to provide themselves with
leathern tents. Their only shelter from the wind, snow, or rain, before
this season, had been a rude barricade of pine branches. Fortunately,
for our comfort, they were obliged to remove before the expiration of
the month to a distant fishery to procure provision.
[Sidenote: June, 1st.] The preparations for the voyage along the coast
being now in a state of forwardness, my attention was directed to the
providing for the return of Dr. Richardson's party to this establishment
in the following autumn, and to the securing means of support for all
the members of the Expedition at this place, in the event of the western
party being likewise compelled to return to it. Respecting the first
point, it was arranged that Beaulieu the interpreter, and four
Canadians, should quit Fort Franklin on the 6th of August, and proceed
direct to Dease River with a bateau, and wait there until the 20th of
September, when, if Dr. Richardson did not appear, they were to come
back to the fort in canoes, and to leave the boat, with provision and
other necessaries, for the use of the eastern detachment. All these
points were explained to Beaulieu, and he not only understood every part
of the arrangement, but seemed very desirous to perform the important
duty entrusted to him. I next drew up written instructions for the
guidance of Mr. Dease, during the absence of the Expedition, directing
his attention first to the equipment and despatch of Beaulieu on the 6th
of August, and then to the keeping the establishment well stored with
provision. He was aware of the probability that the western party would
meet his Majesty's ship Blossom, and go to Canton in her. But as
unforeseen circumstances might compel us to winter on the coast, I
considered it necessary to warn him against inferring, from our not
returning in the following autumn, that we had reached the Blossom. He
was, therefore, directed to keep Fort Franklin complete, as to
provision, until the spring of 1828. Dr. Richardson was likewise
instructed, before he left the fort in 1827, on his return to England,
to see that Mr. Dease fully understood my motives for giving these
orders, and that he was provided with the means of purchasing the
necessary provision from the Indians.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 7th.] The long reign of the east wind was at
length terminated by a fresh N.W. breeze, and the ice yet remaining on
the small lake soon disappeared, under the softening effects of this
wind. This lake had been frozen eight months, wanting three days. A
narrow channel being opened along the western border of Bear Lake, on
the 14th Dr. Richardson took advantage of it, and went in a small canoe
with two men to examine the mountains on the borders of Bear Lake River,
and to collect specimens of the plants that were now in flower,
intending to rejoin the party at Fort Norman. On the same day, in 1821,
the former Expedition left Fort Enterprize for the sea.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 15th.] The equipments of the boats being now
complete, they were launched on the small lake, and tried under oars and
sails. In the afternoon the men were appointed to their respective
stations, and furnished with the sky-blue waterproof uniforms, and
feathers, as well as with the warm clothing which had been provided for
the voyage. I acquainted them fully with the object of the Expedition,
and pointed out their various duties. They received these communications
with satisfaction, were delighted with the prospect of the voyage, and
expressed their readiness to commence it immediately. Fourteen men,
including Augustus, were appointed to accompany myself and Lieutenant
Back, in the Lion and Reliance, the two larger boats; and ten, including
Ooligbuck, to go with Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendall, in the Dolphin and
Union. In order to make up the complement of fourteen for the western
party, I proposed to receive two volunteers from the Canadian voyagers;
and to the credit of Canadian enterprise, every man came forward. I
chose Francois Felix and Alexis Vivier, because they were the first who
offered their services, and this too without any stipulation as to
increase of wages.
Spare blankets, and every thing that could be useful for the voyage, or
as presents to the Esquimaux, which our stores could furnish, were
divided between the eastern and western parties, and put up into bales
of a size convenient for stowage. This interesting day was closed by the
consumption of a small quantity of rum, reserved for the occasion,
followed by a merry dance, in which all joined with great glee, in their
working dresses. On the following Sunday the officers and men assembled
at Divine service, dressed in their new uniforms; and in addition to the
ordinary service of the day, the special protection of Providence was
implored on the enterprise we were about to commence. The guns were
cleaned the next day, and stowed in the arm chests, which had been made
to fit the boats. Tuesday and Wednesday were set apart for the officers
and men to pack their own things. A strong western breeze occurred on
the 21st, which removed the ice from the front of the house and opened a
passage to the Bear Lake River. The men were sent with the boats and
stores to the river in the evening, and were heartily cheered on
quitting the beach. The officers remained to pack up the charts,
drawings, and other documents, which were to be left at the fort; and,
in the event of none of the officers returning, Mr. Dease was directed
to forward them to England. We quitted the house at half past ten, on
Thursday morning, leaving Cote, the fisherman, in charge, until Mr.
Dease should return from Fort Norman. This worthy old man, sharing the
enthusiasm that animated the whole party, would not allow us to depart
without giving his hearty, though solitary cheer, which we returned in
full chorus.
The position of Fort Franklin was determined to be in latitude 65
degrees 11 minutes 56 seconds N., longitude 123 degrees 12 minutes 44
seconds W.; variation of the compass 39 degrees 9 minutes E.; dip of the
needle 82 degrees 58 minutes 15 seconds.
FOOTNOTES:
[2] Used by the Indians to break up the beaver lodges.