CHAPTER I.

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NARRATIVE

OF A SECOND EXPEDITION

TO THE SHORES OF

THE POLAR SEA,

IN THE YEARS

1825, 1826, AND 1827,

BY JOHN FRANKLIN,

CAPT. R.N., F.R.S., &C. AND COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION.

INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF THE PROGRESS OF A

DETACHMENT TO THE EASTWARD,

BY JOHN RICHARDSON, M.D., F.R.S., F.L.S., &c.

SURGEON AND NATURALIST TO THE EXPEDITION.

PUBLISHED BY AUTHORITY OF THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE

SECRETARY OF STATE FOR COLONIAL AFFAIRS.

Philadelphia:

CAREY, LEA, AND CAREY--CHESNUT STREET.

SOLD IN NEW YORK BY G. AND C. CARVILL--IN BOSTON BY MUNROE

AND FRANCIS.

1828.

* * * * *

W. PILKINGTON & CO. PRINTERS.

* * * * *

TO

THE RIGHT HONOURABLE

THE EARL BATHURST, K.G.,

LORD PRESIDENT OF HIS MAJESTY'S COUNCIL,

&c. &c. &c.

THE FOLLOWING

NARRATIVE OF A SECOND JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY ALONG

THE NORTHERN COAST OF AMERICA,

UNDERTAKEN BY ORDER AND UNDER THE AUSPICES

OF HIS LORDSHIP,

IS, BY PERMISSION, INSCRIBED

WITH GREAT RESPECT AND GRATITUDE,

BY

THE AUTHOR.

CONTENTS.

_Page_

Introductory Chapter ix

Official Instructions xix

CHAPTER I.

Join the Boats in the Methye River--Cross the Long Portage--Arrival

at Fort Chipewyan--Departure from thence with the whole party for

Mackenzie River--Arrangements at Fort Norman--Descent to the

Sea--Return to the Winter Quarters at Great Bear Lake 23

CHAPTER II.

Transactions at Fort Franklin, 1825-6 61

CHAPTER III.

Voyage to the Sea--Part from the Eastern Detachment at Point

Separation--Reach the Mouth of the Mackenzie--Interview and Contest

with the Esquimaux--Detained by Ice--Meet friendly Esquimaux--Point

Sabine 87

CHAPTER IV.

Babbage River--Meet Natives at Herschel Island--Their Trade with the

Russians, through the Western Esquimaux--Ascend Mount

Conybeare--Boundary of the British Dominions on this Coast--Delayed

at Icy Reef--Barter Island--Detention at Foggy Island--Return

Reef--Limit of outward Voyage 114

CHAPTER V.

Commence Return to the Mackenzie--Delayed again at Foggy Island--Ice

packed on the Reefs near Beaufort Bay, and on the Coast about

Clarence River--Pass the Channels near Herschel Island in a Gale and

Fog--A sudden Gale--Escape an Attack which the Mountain Indians

meditated--Enter the Mackenzie--Peel River--Arrival at Fort Franklin

141

* * * * *

_Dr. Richardson's Narrative of the Proceedings of the Eastern Detachment

of the Expedition._

CHAPTER I.

Leave Point Separation, and descend the Eastern Channel of the

Mackenzie--Arrive at Sacred Island--Esquimaux Graves--Interview with

the Natives; their thievish disposition--Attempt to gain possession

of the Union--Heavy Gale--Find shelter in Refuge Cove--Low

Coast--Mirage--Stopped by Ice at Point Toker--Reach the Sea 162

CHAPTER II.

Detention by wind--Visited by the Esquimaux--Cross a large Stream of

Fresh Water--Winter Houses on Atkinson Island--Gale of Wind and

Fog--Run into Browell Cove--Double Cape Dalhousie--Liverpool Bay and

Esquimaux Lake--Icy Cliffs--Meet another party of Esquimaux--Cape

Bathurst 180

CHAPTER III.

Double Cape Bathurst--Whales--Bituminous-shale Cliffs on Fire--Enter

Franklin Bay--Heavy Gale--Peninsula of Cape Parry--Perforated

Rock--Detention at Cape Lyon by Wind--Force of an Esquimaux

Arrow--Meet with heavy Ice--Pass Union and Dolphin Straits--Double

Cape Krusenstern, and enter George the Fourth's Coronation

Gulph--Reach the Coppermine River--Remarks--Meteorological Table

193

CHAPTER IV.

Ascend the Coppermine River--Abandon the Boats and

Stores--Commence the Land Journey--Cross the Copper Mountains and

Height of Land--Meet Indians who bring Provisions--Arrive at Great

Bear Lake--Detained by want of a Boat--Send out Hunters--Arrival of

Beaulieu--Collect the Party, and proceed to Fort

Franklin--Conclusion 222

* * * * *

_Captain Franklin's Narrative resumed._

CHAPTER VI.

Brief Notices of the Second Winter at Bear Lake--Traditions of the

Dog-Ribs--Leave Fort Franklin--Winter Journey to Fort

Chipewyan--Remarks on the progress of improvement in the Fur

Countries--Set out in Canoes on the Voyage Homeward--Join Dr.

Richardson at Cumberland House--Mr. Drummond's Narrative--Arrival in

Canada, at New York, and London 238

* * * * *

APPENDIX.

Topographical and Geological Notices, by Dr. Richardson, R.N. 263

* * * * *

An account of the objects of Natural History, collected on our journey

being too voluminous to be inserted in the Appendix, has been reserved

for a separate work which will be published as soon as possible, by Dr.

Richardson and Professor Hooker, under the sanction, and by the

assistance, of His Majesty's Government.

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

His Majesty's Government having, towards the close of the year 1823,

determined upon another attempt to effect a northern passage by sea

between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and Captain Parry, the highly

distinguished Commander of the two preceding Expeditions, having been

again entrusted with its execution, success, as far as ability,

enterprise, and experience could ensure it, appeared likely to be the

result. Yet, as the object was one for which Great Britain had thought

proper to contend for upwards of three centuries, it seemed to me that

it might be desirable to pursue it by more ways than one; I therefore

ventured to lay before His Majesty's Government a plan for an Expedition

overland to the mouth of the Mackenzie River, and thence, by sea, to the

northwestern extremity of America, with the combined object, also, of

surveying the coast between the Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers.

I was well aware of the sympathy excited in the British public by the

sufferings of those engaged in the former overland Expedition to the

mouth of the Coppermine River, and of the humane repugnance of His

Majesty's Government to expose others to a like fate; but I was enabled

to show satisfactorily that, in the proposed course, similar dangers

were not to be apprehended, while the objects to be attained were

important at once to the naval character, scientific reputation, and

commercial interests of Great Britain; and I received directions from

the Right Honourable Earl Bathurst to make the necessary preparations

for the equipment of the Expedition, to the command of which I had the

honour to be nominated.

My much valued friend, Dr. Richardson, offered his services as

Naturalist and Surgeon, and also volunteered to undertake the survey of

the coast between the Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers, while I should be

occupied in endeavouring to reach Icy Cape.

Lieutenant Bushnan, who had served under Captains Ross and Parry on

their voyages of discovery, was also appointed to accompany me; but,

long before the party was to leave England, I had to lament the

premature death of that excellent young officer, who was eminently

qualified for the situation, by his skill in astronomical observations,

surveying, and drawing. Many naval officers, distinguished for their

talent and ability, were desirous of filling the vacancy; but my friend

and former companion, Lieutenant Back, having returned from the West

Indies, the appointment was offered to him, and accepted with his wonted

zeal.

Mr. E.N. Kendall, Admiralty Mate, and recently assistant Surveyor with

Captain Lyon, was appointed to accompany Dr. Richardson in his voyage to

the eastward, and to do the duty of an Assistant-Surveyor to the

Expedition at large, whilst it continued united. Lastly, Mr. Thomas

Drummond, of Forfar, was appointed Assistant Naturalist, on the

recommendation of Professor Hooker, and other eminent scientific men.

A residence in the northern parts of America, where the party must

necessarily depend for subsistence on the daily supply of fish, or on

the still more precarious success of Indian hunters, involves many

duties which require the superintendence of a person of long experience

in the management of the fisheries, and in the arrangement of the

Canadian voyagers and Indians: we had many opportunities, during the

former voyage, of being acquainted with the qualifications of Mr. Peter

Warren Dease, Chief Trader of the Hudson's Bay Company, for these

services, and I therefore procured the sanction of His Majesty's

Government for his being employed on the Expedition.

As soon as I had authority from Earl Bathurst, I entered into a

correspondence with the Governor and Directors of the Hudson's Bay

Company; and these gentlemen, taking the most lively interest in the

objects of the Expedition, promised their utmost support to it, and

forthwith sent injunctions to their officers in the Fur Countries to

provide the necessary depots of provision at the places which I pointed

out, and to give every other aid in their power. I also wrote to the

different Chief Factors and Chief Traders of the Company, who resided on

the route of the Expedition, explaining its objects, and requesting

their co-operation.

_Pemmican_, the principal article of provision used in travelling, being

made during the winter and spring, the orders for providing the extra

quantity required for the Expedition, though sent out from England by

the earliest conveyance, so as to reach the provision posts in the

summer of 1824, could not be put into effect sooner than the spring of

1825; hence, it was not proper that the main body of the Expedition

should reach the Fur Countries before the latter period. Some stores

were forwarded from England, by way of New York, in March 1824, under

charge of Mr. Robert M'Vicar, Chief Trader, for the purpose of relieving

the Expedition as much as possible from the incumbrance of heavy

baggage, and thus enabling it, by marching quickly, to reach its

intended winter-quarters at Great Bear Lake, as well as to provide for

its more comfortable reception at that place. These stores, with the

addition of other articles obtained in Canada, sufficed to load three

north canoes, manned by eighteen voyagers; and they were delivered by

Mr. M'Vicar, before the winter set in, to Mr. Dease, at the Athabasca

Lake. Mr. Dease was instructed to support his party by fishing at Great

Slave Lake, during the winter of 1824-25; and, early in the spring of

1825, to proceed to Great Bear Lake, and commence the necessary

buildings for the reception of the Expedition. I may here cursorily

remark that, in selecting Great Bear Lake as our winter residence, I was

influenced by the information I had obtained of its being the place

nearest to the mouth of the Mackenzie, known to the traders, where a

sufficient supply of fish could be procured for the support of so large

a party.

Three light boats, which I shall soon more particularly describe, were

also sent out to York Factory, in June 1824, in the annual Hudson's Bay

ship, together with a further supply of stores, two carpenters, and a

party of men, with a view of their reaching Cumberland House, on the

Saskatchawan River, the same season; and starting from thence as soon as

the navigation opened in the following spring, that they might be as far

as possible advanced on their way to Bear Lake before they were

overtaken by the Officers of the Expedition. The latter proceeding by

way of New York and Canada, would have the advantage of an earlier

spring in travelling through the more southern districts; and, further

to expedite their progress, I directed two _large_ canoes (canots de

maitre,) with the necessary equipments and stores, to be deposited at

Penetanguishene, the naval depot of Lake Huron, in the autumn of 1824,

to await our arrival in the following spring; having been informed

that, in ordinary seasons, we should, by commencing our voyage at that

place, arrive in the north-west country ten days earlier than by the

usual way of proceeding up the Utawas River from Montreal.

The return of the Hudson's Bay ship towards the close of the year 1824,

brought me satisfactory intelligence of the progress of the

above-mentioned parties, together with the most pleasing assurances from

the Gentlemen of the Company to whom I had written, of their zeal in our

cause; and here I must express the deep sense I have of the kindness of

the late Honourable William M'Gillivray, of Montreal, whose experience

enabled him to give me many valuable suggestions relating to the

clothing and subsistence of the party, and to the supplies proper for

the Indians.

In connexion with the above sketch of the preparatory steps taken in the

course of the year 1824, it may be proper to give, in this place, a

short account of the general equipments of the Expedition.

And first, with regard to the vessels intended for the navigation of the

Arctic Sea: birch-bark canoes, uniting lightness and facility of repair

with speed, are certainly well adapted for navigating the rivers of

America, but they are much too slight to bear the concussion of waves in

a rough sea, and they are still less fitted, from the tenderness of the

bark, for coming in contact with ice. I therefore requested of the Lords

Commissioners of the Admiralty that _three_ boats might be constructed

under my superintendence; and they were immediately ordered and promptly

finished under the directions of the Commissioners of the Navy. To fit

them for the ascent and descent of the many rapids between York Factory

and Mackenzie River; and to render their transport over the numerous

portages more easy, it was necessary to have them as small, and of as

light a construction as possible; and, in fact, as much like a north

canoe as was consistent with the stability and capacity required for

their voyage at sea. They were built of mahogany, with timbers of ash,

both ends exactly alike, and fitted to be steered either with a

sweep-oar or a rudder. The largest, twenty-six feet long, and five feet

four inches broad, was adapted for six rowers, a steersman, and an

officer; it could be borne on the shoulders of six men, and was found,

on trial, to be capable of carrying three tons weight in addition to the

crew. The two others were each twenty-four feet long, four feet ten

inches broad, and were capable of receiving a crew of five men, a

steersman, and an officer, with an additional weight of two and a half

tons. The greatest care was paid to their construction by Mr. Cow,

boat-builder of Woolwich Yard; and, as I could not often be present, my

friend Captain Buchan, R.N., kindly undertook to report their progress;

and I am further indebted to him for many valuable suggestions which

were acted upon.

When the boats were finished, they were tried at Woolwich, in the

presence of many naval and military officers, as to their qualities of

sailing, rowing, and paddling, and found to answer fully the

expectations that had been formed of them. At the same time we tried

another little vessel belonging to the Expedition, named the

Walnut-Shell, the invention and construction of which I owe to my friend

Lieutenant-Colonel Pasley, of the Royal Engineers. Its length was nine

feet, its breadth four feet four inches, and it was framed of

well-seasoned ash, fastened with thongs, covered with Mr. Mackintosh's

prepared canvas, and shaped like one valve of a walnut-shell, whence its

appellation. It weighed only eighty-five pounds, could, when taken to

pieces, be made up in five or six parcels, and was capable of being put

together in less than twenty minutes. So secure was this little vessel,

that several ladies, who had honoured the trial of the boats with their

presence, fearlessly embarked in it, and were paddled across the Thames

in a fresh breeze. It was intended to provide against a similar

detention in crossing rivers to that which proved so fatal to our party

on the former journey; and it was also thought, that this little bark

would be found useful in procuring water-fowl on the small lakes, to

which the boats could not be conveyed.

In the choice of astronomical instruments I was necessarily guided by

their portability. Our stock consisted of two small sextants, two

artificial horizons, two altitude instruments, a repeating circle for

lunar observations, and a small transit telescope for ascertaining the

rates of the chronometers. We had a dipping needle mounted on Meyer's

plan, a plain needle very delicately fitted for observing the diurnal

variation; two of Kater's azimuth compasses, and a pocket compass for

each officer. The atmospherical instruments were two electrometers, two

of Daniel's hygrometers, Leslie's photometer and hygrometer, besides a

good supply of mercurial and spirit thermometers of different sizes. The

magnetic instruments were examined in concert with my friend Captain

Sabine, previous to my departure from London; and the observations that

were obtained for dip and intensity, served as points of comparison for

our future results.

The stores consisted of bedding and clothing, including two suits of

waterproof dresses for each person, prepared by Mr. Mackintosh, of

Glasgow; our guns had the same bore with the fowling-pieces, supplied by

the Hudson's Bay Company to the Indian hunters, that is, twenty-eight

balls to the pound; their locks were tempered to withstand the cold of

the winter; and a broad Indian dagger, which could also be used as a

knife, was fitted to them, like a bayonet. Ammunition of the best

quality was provided by the Ordnance, the powder being secured in small

field or boat magazines. A quantity of wheaten-flour, arrow-root,

macaroni, portable-soup, chocolate, essence of coffee, sugar, and tea,

calculated to last two years, was also supplied, made up into packages

of eighty-five pounds, and covered with three layers of prepared

waterproof canvas, of which material coverings for the cargo of each

boat were also made.

There was likewise an ample stock of tobacco, a small quantity of wine

and spirits, marquees and tents for the men and officers, some books,

writing and drawing paper, a considerable quantity of cartridge-paper,

to be used in preserving specimens of plants; nets, twine, fishing-lines

and hooks, together with many articles to be used at winter-quarters,

for the service of the post, and for the supply of our Indian hunters,

such as cloth, blankets, shirts, coloured belts, chiefs' dresses, combs,

looking-glasses, beads, tapes, gartering, knives, guns and daggers,

hatchets, awls, gun-worms, flints, fire-steels, files, whip and

hand-saws, ice-chisels and trenching-irons, the latter to break open the

beaver lodges.

As the mode of travelling through the Hudson's Bay territories, with all

its difficulties and hazards, is now well known to the public, I think

it better to give in this Introductory Chapter a slight outline of our

route through the United States, Upper Canada, and Southern part of the

Fur Countries, and to commence the detailed Narrative of the proceedings

of the Expedition with its arrival in Methye River, where the officers

joined the boats that had been sent out from England in the preceding

year.

On the 16th of February, 1825, I embarked with Lieutenant Back, Dr.

Richardson, Mr. Kendall, Mr. Drummond, and four marines, at Liverpool,

on board the American packet-ship, Columbia, Captain Lee; and, on

quitting the pier, we were honoured by a salute of three animating

cheers, from a crowd of the principal inhabitants, who had assembled to

witness our departure. The passage across the Atlantic was favourable

and pleasant, and our reception at New York kind in the extreme. We

landed at that city on the 15th of March, and our baggage and stores

were instantly passed through the Custom-House without inspection. Cards

of admission to the Public Scientific Institutions were forwarded to us

the same evening, and during our stay every other mark of attention was

shown by the civil and naval authorities, as well as by private

individuals, indicating the lively interest which they took in our

enterprise.

James Buchanan, Esq., the British Consul, in addition to many other

attentions, kindly undertook to accommodate a journey he had to make to

Upper Canada, so as to accompany us through the State of New York. After

a stay of eight days in the city, for the purpose of obtaining the rates

of the chronometers, and for making some other observations with Meyer's

dipping needle, we embarked under the Consul's guidance, in the

steam-boat Olive Branch, and ascended the Hudson River, to Albany, where

we experienced similar civilities to those we had received at New York.

Every body seemed to desire our success, and a fervent prayer for our

preservation and welfare was offered up by the Reverend Dr. Christie,

the minister of the church that we attended. The Honourable De Witt

Clinton, the Governor of the State, assured me, that had we not been

accompanied by a gentleman so conversant in the different routes and

modes of travelling as Mr. Buchanan, he would have sent his son with us,

or would himself have conducted us to the confines of the State.

From Albany, we travelled through Utica, Rochester, and Geneva, to

Leweston, in coaches, with more or less rapidity, according to the

condition of the roads; and, crossing the river Niagara, entered Canada,

and visited the Falls so justly celebrated as the first in the world for

grandeur. We next crossed Lake Ontario in a sailing boat, and came to

York the capital of Upper Canada, where we were kindly received by the

Lieutenant-Governor Sir Peregrine Maitland, and by Colonel Cockburn and

the Commissioners then employed on an inquiry respecting the value of

the Crown Lands. From York we passed on to Lake Simcoe, in carts and

other conveyances, halting for a night at the hospitable house of Mr.

Robinson of Newmarket. We crossed Lake Simcoe in canoes and boats, and

landed near the upper part of Kempenfeldt Bay, but not without being

obliged to break our way through the ice for a short distance. A journey

of nine miles, performed on foot, brought us to the River Nattawassaga,

which we descended in a boat; and passing through a part of Lake Huron,

arrived at Penetanguishene. At this place, we were hospitably

entertained by Lieutenant, now Captain Douglass, during eight days that

we waited for the arrival of our Canadian voyagers from Montreal.

We left Penetanguishene on St. George's day (23d April) in the two large

canoes, which had been deposited at that place in the preceding autumn,

our party, by the accession of the voyagers, now amounted to

thirty-three; and after a few days detention by ice, and bad weather, we

reached Sault de St. Marie on the 1st of May, being ten days or a

fortnight earlier than the oldest resident remembered a canoe from

Canada to have arrived. From the Sault de St. Marie, we coasted the

northern shore of Lake Superior to Fort William, formerly the great

depot of the N.W. Company, where we arrived on the 10th of May. We now

exchanged our two _canots de maitre_ for four small north canoes, in one

of which, more lightly laden, Dr. Richardson and I embarked, with the

view of proceeding as rapidly as possible to arrange supplies of

provision at the different posts, while Lieutenant Back was left to

bring up the three remaining and more deeply laden canoes.

We proceeded by the route delineated in the maps through Rainy Lake, the

Lake of the Woods, Lake Winipeg, and the Saskatchawan River to

Cumberland House, where we arrived on the 15th of June, and learned that

our boats had left that place on the 2d of the same month. We found also

with deep regret, that Thomas Mathews, the principal carpenter who had

accompanied the boats from England, had had the misfortune to break his

leg the evening before their departure. But, fortunately, an officer of

the Hudson's Bay Company then present, had sufficient skill to set it,

and Dr. Richardson now pronounced that in two months he would be able to

come on in one of the Company's canoes, and join us at Bear Lake, which

he was very desirous of doing. I therefore made arrangements to this

effect, and also concerning supplies for Mr. Drummond the Assistant

Naturalist, who was to be employed, during our stay in the north, in

making collections in the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains.

Having remained one night at Cumberland House, we resumed our voyage,

and passing through Pine Island Lake, Beaver Lake, crossing the Frog

Portage, and ascending the English River, with its dilatations, named

Bear Island, Sandfly, Serpent, Primeau, and Isle a la Crosse Lakes, we

came to the post situated on, and named from the latter sheet of water,

at four P.M. on the 25th June. In the course of this voyage, we met the

Gentlemen of the Hudson's Bay Company proceeding from the interior with

various brigades of canoes, carrying the returns of trade for the year

to York Factory, and I had not only the satisfaction of hearing frequent

news of the progress of our boats, but that the deposits of provisions I

had requested, and the other arrangements I had made, were all

punctually carried into effect. Mr. Spencer, the gentleman in charge at

Isle a la Crosse, informed us, that the boats had gone off a few hours

previous to our arrival, with the addition of a bateau laden with

pemmican, under the charge of Mr. Fraser, a clerk of the Hudson's Bay

Company.

I waited at this establishment one night to obtain astronomical

observations, and to bespeak an additional quantity of provisions, &c.,

which being satisfactorily done, we resumed our voyage on the 27th, and,

passing through Deep River, Clear and Buffalo Lakes, overtook the boats

in Methye River, at sunrise on the 29th of June.

Having brought this preliminary sketch up to the date at which the

ensuing Narrative of the proceedings of the Expedition commences, I turn

to the pleasing duty of rendering my best thanks to the many gentlemen

who have assisted me in forwarding its progress. To the Right Honourable

Earl Bathurst, I am greatly indebted for the readiness with which he

attended to every suggestion I had to make regarding the equipment of

the Expedition, and to the Right Honourable Wilmot Horton, the Under

Colonial Secretary, for his kindness and promptitude in facilitating all

my views. Nor can I feel less grateful to Lord Viscount Melville, and to

the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty for their patronage and

support, as well as to Sir Byam Martin, the Comptroller, and to the

Commissioners of the Navy and Victualling offices, for the arrangements

depending on their boards. Mr. Pelly, the Governor of the Hudson's Bay

Company, and Mr. Garry, the Deputy-Governor, as well as every Member of

its Committee, claim my most sincere thanks for their unremitting

endeavours to promote the welfare of the Expedition through its whole

progress; and I feel truly obliged to Mr. Simpson, the Governor in the

Fur Countries; to Mr. M'Tavish, Mr. Haldane, Mr. M'Donald, Mr. Leith,

Mr. Stuart, and Messrs. James and George Keith, Chief Factors, who,

acting in the spirit of their instructions, were very assiduous in

collecting provisions and stores for the use of my party, and in

forwarding all our supplies. There were other gentlemen resident in the

more northern parts of the country, to whom I am no less obliged for

advice and assistance; but the brevity requisite in this place

necessarily compels me to refer to the Narrative, where their names,

and the services they rendered, are mentioned.

I cannot, however, close this introductory Chapter, without expressing

the deepest obligation to those kind friends and excellent officers with

whom I had the happiness of being associated, who constantly aided me by

their most cordial co-operation, and whose best efforts were devotedly

applied to every pursuit which could be interesting to science. Nor can

I omit to mention the gratitude I owe to each of the seamen, marines,

British and Canadian voyagers who composed our party at the

winter-quarters, for their steady obedience and truly good conduct,

whether in the days of relaxation during the winter, or in the more

arduous exertions of our summer occupations.

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

_Downing-street, 31st Jan. 1825._

SIR,

His Majesty's Government having decided that an Expedition should be set

forth, for the purpose of exploring the Northern Coast of America,

between the Mouth of Mackenzie's River, and the Strait of Behring; and

confiding in your zeal and experience for the due execution of this

service, I have recommended you as a proper person to be charged with

the same. You are, therefore, to proceed with your party (a list of whom

is annexed) by the Packet from Liverpool to New York, and from thence

make the best of your way to Lake Huron, where the stores necessary for

your journey have already been sent. Embarking in Canoes, you are from

thence to follow the water communication to the western side of the

Great Bear Lake, where you are to establish your winter-quarters; and

having so done, your first care should be to endeavour to open a

friendly communication with the Esquimaux.

Early in the Spring of 1826, you are to proceed down the Mackenzie River

with all the necessary stores and provisions, in order to be prepared to

take advantage of the first opening of the ice on the Polar Sea, so as

to enable you to prosecute your voyage along the coast to Icy Cape,

round which you are to proceed to Kotzebue's Inlet, where you may expect

to find His Majesty's Ship Blossom, which the Lords Commissioners of the

Admiralty will order to proceed to that rendezvous, in the Summer of

1826. But if, on your arrival at Icy Cape, or the northern point of

Behring's Strait, you should be of opinion that you could, with safety,

return the same season to the established winter-quarters, you are at

liberty to do so, instead of proceeding to join the Blossom. You will,

therefore, without loss of time, settle with Captain Beechey, her

commander, such a plan as may appear to you, both, best adapted for

ensuring your meeting together, and establish a code of signals, or

devise such other means as may tend to give you information, if

possible, previous to your reaching the longitude of Icy Cape.

On your arrival at the mouth of Mackenzie River, you are to despatch Dr.

Richardson with Mr. Kendall and five or six men, in one of the boats, to

examine the intermediate coast between the Mackenzie and Coppermine

Rivers; but if you should find that the stores and provisions you have

been able to accumulate are not sufficient for your own and Dr.

Richardson's party, you are, in that case, to direct Dr. Richardson to

employ himself and party on shore, in examining the country contiguous

to the Mackenzie River, the Rocky Mountains, the shores of the Great

Bear Lake, the Copper Mountains, and as far round as he can with safety,

collecting specimens of the animals, plants, and minerals, and also

laying in a stock of provisions sufficient for both parties, if, by any

unforeseen accident, you should find yourself compelled to return

without reaching the Blossom.

If, in proceeding westerly towards Icy Cape, you should make but slow

progress, and find yourself impeded by ice or land jutting out to the

northward farther than is calculated upon, or from accidents to the

boats, or any other unforeseen circumstance, so that it remains doubtful

whether you will be able to reach the neighbourhood of Kotzebue's Inlet

the same season, you are not to consider yourself authorized to risk

yourself and party to the chance of being obliged to winter on the

coast, but commence your return about the 15th or 20th of August to the

established winter-quarters on Bear Lake, unless you should be satisfied

that yourself and party could pass the winter with safety among the

Esquimaux, and that there was afforded a certainty of your reaching

Behring's Strait the following Season, when the Blossom will again

proceed to the appointed rendezvous.

In the event of your reaching Kotzebue's Inlet, the first season,

Captain Beechey will be instructed to convey you and your party in the

Blossom to the Sandwich Islands or Canton, as may seem most advisable to

you, from whence you will be able to take a passage to England in one of

the Company's Ships or Private Traders; and you will leave such

instructions with Dr. Richardson for his guidance, in the event of your

being able to accomplish this point, as you may deem fit and proper for

his return to England.

In the event of your death, or any accident which may prevent your

proceeding, the command of the Expedition must necessarily devolve on

Lieutenant Back, who is to follow these Instructions; but he is not to

alter any arrangement with regard to Dr. Richardson's proceedings which

you may have settled for him to pursue, the principal object of Dr.

Richardson's accompanying you, being that of completing, as far as can

be done, our knowledge of the Natural History of North America.

Lieutenant Back will, therefore, in the event above-mentioned, act in

concert with Dr. Richardson, but not direct him and his party from any

plan of operations which he and you may previously have settled.

You will take care to inform me from time to time, as opportunities may

occur, of your proceedings, and the progress made in the Expedition,

with the direction of which you are hereby entrusted.

I have the honour to be,

Sir,

Your most obedient Servant,

BATHURST.

_To Captain Franklin, R.N.,

&c. &c. &c._

SECOND JOURNEY TO THE SHORES OF THE POLAR SEA.

CHAPTER I.

Join the boats in the Methye River--Cross the Long Portage--Arrival to

Fort Chipewyan--Departure from thence with the whole party for Mackenzie

River--Arrangements at Fort Norman--Descent to the Sea--Return to the

Winter Quarters at Great Bear Lake.

The boats of the Expedition had advanced from Hudson's Bay into the

interior, twelve hundred miles, before they were joined by the officers;

whilst the latter, from taking a more circuitous route by New York and

Canada, as shown in the introductory chapter, travelled two thousand and

eight hundred miles, to reach the same point.

[Sidenote: June 29.] This junction took place early in the morning of

the 29th of June, 1825, in the Methye River, latitude 56 degrees 10

minutes N., longitude 108 degrees 55 minutes W., which is almost at the

head of the waters that flow from the north into Hudson's Bay.

In no part of the journey was the presence of the officers more

requisite to animate and encourage the crews, because the river itself,

beside being obstructed by three impassable rapids, is usually so

shallow, through its whole course of forty miles, as scarcely to admit

of a flat-bottomed bateau floating with half its cargo, much less our

boats, which drew, when loaded, from eighteen to twenty inches. This

river and its impediments being surmounted, the Methye Portage, ten

miles and three quarters long, was at no great distance, which is always

held up to the inexperienced voyager as the most laborious part of the

journey. But whatever apprehensions the men might have entertained on

this subject, seemed to vanish on our landing amongst them; and Dr.

Richardson and myself were received by all with cheerful, delighted

countenances, and by none more warmly than by our excellent friend and

former interpreter Augustus the Esquimaux, and Ooligbuck, whom he had

brought from Churchill, as his companion. A breakfast was quickly

prepared by Mr. Fraser, a clerk of the Hudson's Bay Company, under whose

charge the boats had been, since their departure from Cumberland House;

and I then inspected the boats and stores, which I was rejoiced to find

were in good order. We had brought letters from the relatives of several

of the party, and another hour was allowed to read them.

At ten A.M. we began to ascend the stream, but very soon found that it

was necessary for the whole party to walk in the water, and drag the

boats through the mud. Nor could we long advance even by this mode, but

were compelled either to carry some of the cargo along the shore, where

walking was at all practicable, or else to take half the lading in a

boat to a part where the river was deeper, and then return for the

remainder. From thus travelling the distance twice over, it was the

fifth day before we reached the lake from whence its waters flow.

[Sidenote: Thursday, 30.] On the evening of the 30th of June, we

witnessed one of those violent but momentary gusts of wind which occur

not unfrequently in the spring and autumn, and which prove so

destructive to the forests in this country. It was preceded by calm and

very sultry weather, with loud thunder and vivid lightning. In an

instant the tents were overthrown, and even very large trees were bent

by its force into a horizontal position; indeed, for a few seconds, the

scene around us appeared one of almost entire devastation. When the

violence of the squall was past, we had great reason to be pleased at

its occurrence, for the strong steady breeze and heavy rain that

succeeded, carried away the myriads of musquitoes by which we had been

tormented the whole day.

[Sidenote: Monday, 4.] Having crossed the Methye Lake, we arrived at the

portage of that name. Here it was necessary to make an equal division of

the cargoes, and to devise means for the conveyance of the boats. The

packages amounted to one hundred and sixteen, weighing from seventy to

ninety pounds each, exclusive of the three boats and the men's personal

luggage; and there were nineteen men of the boats' crews, two

Canadians, and two boys, to carry these burdens. At first the packages

were equally distributed among this party; but several of the men, who

had been reduced by their previous exertions, became lame: among these

were the Esquimaux, and we were, therefore, compelled to make other

arrangements, and ultimately to employ the crew of my canoe, though the

great fatigue they had suffered in our rapid journey from

Penetanguishene, made me desirous of sparing them for the present.

The boats were the heaviest and most difficult articles to transport.

One of the small boats was carried on the shoulders of eight men, of

whom Mr. Fraser undertook to be one, as an example to the rest. Another

of the same size was dragged by another eight men; and the largest was

conveyed on a truck made for the purpose on the spot, to which service

the lame were attached.

Each day's journey, and also the intermediate stages, were determined by

the places where water could be procured, and our mode of travelling was

as follows:--Rising at three A.M., the men carried a part of their

burden to the first stage, and continued to go backwards and forwards

till the whole was deposited. They then slept for a few hours, and in

the cool of the evening the boats were brought up. [Sidenote: Monday,

11th.] By these means every thing was ready at the western end of the

portage early on Monday, the 11th of July. The slight injuries which the

boats had received, principally from exposure to the sun, were soon

repaired; they were put into the water to tighten, and the whole party

were allowed to rest.

With reference to the Methye Portage I may remark, that, except the

steep hill at its western extremity, the road is good and tolerably

level, and it appeared to us that much fatigue and suffering might have

been spared by using trucks. Accordingly two were made by our carpenters

at Fort Chipewyan, in 1827, for the return of the Expedition, and they

answered extremely well. I mention this circumstance, in the hope that

some such expedient will be adopted by the Traders for the relief of

their voyagers, who have twice in every year to pass over this ridge of

hills.

[Sidenote: Tuesday 12th.] Being now in a fair way to reach the Athabasca

Lake, Dr. Richardson and I embarked, on the 12th, in the canoe, to

proceed to Fort Chipewyan, for the purpose of preparing the gentleman in

charge for the reception of the party.

By noon we got over the four Portages on Clear-Water river, and

descended, with some trouble, the series of rapids that follow them.

Once below these, the passage to the lake is generally considered as

free from fatigue; but we did not find it so, for, owing to the

shallowness of the water, the men had to get out and drag the canoe in

several places. The difference between the depth of water now and in

other years at the same period, was attributed to the snow having fallen

in the preceding autumn before the frost was sufficiently intense to

harden the ground, and, consequently, much of the moisture had

penetrated the earth, which, under other circumstances, would have

remained in a frozen state, for the supply of the river at the spring

thaw.

In the course of the night we were under much alarm for one of our men,

who having incautiously lain down to sleep under a wet sail, while the

rain was pouring heavily, was seized with a cramp in the stomach, and

violent pain in the head. Having been brought into the tent and covered

with blankets, he became better before morning, but not sufficiently

strong to allow of our setting off at the usual hour. [Sidenote:

Wednesday, 13th.] We entered the Elk, or Athabasca River, at three P.M.,

on the 13th, and were carried swiftly down by its current to the

Hudson's Bay Company's post named Berens House, where we stayed the

night. Here we received a supply of dried meat. [Sidenote: Friday,

15th.] We safely arrived in the Athabasca Lake on the 15th, by the

channel of the "Riviere des Eaux remuees;" but in the subsequent

traverse between Bustard Island and Fort Chipewyan the canoe was in

danger of foundering in a sudden gale. Two large waves broke with full

force into it, and obliged us to bear away and steer for the nearest

shore; but the men having soon rested, and being now sheltered by

islands, we pushed on to Fort Chipewyan. Our arrival there caused great

surprise to its inmates, when they learned that we had come from England

to that advanced post so early in the season, being only two days later

than the time at which Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood had arrived in 1819,

though they passed the winter at Cumberland House.

The stores at Fort Chipewyan being well furnished with warm clothing,

and other articles, which we required for the use of the men and Indians

at winter-quarters, I availed myself of the permission which the chief

factor of this department, Mr. James Keith, had given me to complete our

stock of cloth, blankets, nets, and twine, to a quantity sufficient for

two years' consumption. A supply of twine was indispensable, because,

by a letter from Mr. Dease, I had learned that the meshes of the nets

made in England, of the size generally required for fishing throughout

this country, were too large for the smaller fish that frequent that

part of Bear Lake where our house was to be constructed. Mr. Campbell,

the clerk in charge, cheerfully gave me the benefit of his experience in

making out lists of such things as we were likely to want, and in

assorting and packing them.

[Sidenote: Monday, 18th.] The boats rejoined on the 18th, and the crews

were allowed the following day to recruit themselves. A party of Indians

came very opportunely with fresh meat, which is always an agreeable

change to the voyager, who has generally to live on dried provision. The

Indians, as well as the women and children of the fort, spent the

greater part of the day by the side of our boats, admiring their whole

equipment, but more especially the gay figures painted on them. Many of

these were different from any animals or representations they had seen,

and, judging from the bursts of laughter, some curious remarks were made

on them.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 20th.] It being necessary that I should await the

arrival of Lieutenant Back's canoes, Dr. Richardson undertook to proceed

with the boats towards Slave Lake. Their lading was now increased by the

bales already mentioned, as well as by several bags of pemmican, which

Mr. Keith had stored up for our use. The crews, however, were reduced by

the discharge of three Englishmen, at their own desire, who thought

themselves unequal to the fatigue of the service.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 23d.] I had the happiness, on the 23rd, of

welcoming my friends, Lieutenant Back and Mr. Kendall, on their arrival

with three canoes. Their journey from Fort William had been expeditious,

notwithstanding the detention of eighteen days, by bad weather, on the

road. A serious misfortune had happened at the very outset of the

journey, through the unskilfulness of one of the bowmen, in allowing his

canoe to turn round and get before the current, while attempting to

ascend the Barrier Rapid, by which it was driven against a stone with

such force, as to be overset and broken. The stores were fortunately

saved, though completely drenched; but many of the delicate

atmospherical instruments were broken. Mr. Kendall was despatched to

Fort William for another canoe while the things were drying.

On a subsequent occasion, in the Winipeg River, the same man placed his

canoe in such a situation, as to endanger its being hurried down a steep

fall, and had it not been for the coolness of a man, named Lavalle, who

jumped into the water and held the canoe, while the rest of the crew

arranged themselves so as to drag it into a place of safety, every life

must have been sacrificed. The success, indeed the safety of this kind

of river navigation, among currents and rapids, depends on the skill of

the bowman; and after these proofs of his incapacity, Lieutenant Back

very properly engaged a substitute at the first fort to which he came.

At another time, in the Sturgeon-weir River, the canoe in which Mr.

Kendall was embarked, having been accidentally driven before the

current, she was only saved from destruction by his own powerful

exertion and activity.

These short details will convey an idea of the anxiety and trouble these

officers experienced in their journey to Chipewyan.

The party and the stores having now passed the more difficult part of

the road, I discharged as many of the Canadians as could be spared, and

furnished them with a canoe to take them home. Some went to Montreal;

and they were the first persons who had ever gone from that place to

Chipewyan, and returned in the same season.

[Sidenote: Monday, 25th.] The greater part of the 25th was employed in

obtaining astronomical observations, the results of which, we were

delighted to find, placed Fort Chipewyan within a few seconds of

longitude of the position in which it had been laid down on the former

Expedition. Our present azimuth compasses showed an increase in

variation, since 1820, of 2 degrees 16 minutes E. The dip was observed

81 degrees 26 minutes 47 seconds.

Fort Chipewyan was this summer visited, for the first time, by a large

flight of swallows, resembling the house-martins of England. They came

in a body on the 25th of June, and immediately began to construct their

earthy nests under the ledge of the south-front of the house. Some barn

or forked-tail swallows also arrived on the 15th of June, and took

possession of the store-houses and garrets, as they had in former years

done. Some of the young of the last-mentioned birds were sporting on the

tops of the houses as early as the 17th of July.

At sunset we embarked in four canoes, one having been procured here. The

descent to Slave Lake occupied four days, and was unattended with any

circumstance deserving mention, except that two of the canoes were

broken in consequence of the guide mistaking the proper channel in a

rapid; fortunately, these bark vessels are soon repaired, and we had

only to regret the delay the accident occasioned.

We halted at the Salt River to take in salt, as we found, by a note left

here, Dr. Richardson had done. The geese were moulting at this time, and

unable to fly; they afforded us much sport in their chase, and an

excellent supper every night.

A body of Indians were waiting near the entrance of the lake to welcome

our arrival; they were so numerous, that we were forced to omit our

general custom of giving a small present to each native, and thus

incurred the charge of stinginess, which the loud vociferations they

raised on our setting sail, were probably meant to convey.

[Sidenote: Friday, 29th.] At six, on the evening of the 29th, we reached

Fort Resolution, the only establishment now at Slave Lake, and we felt

happy in being once more under the roof of our hospitable friend, Mr.

Robert M'Vicar, to whom I am much indebted for the excellent order in

which he had brought up our supplies from Canada in the preceding year.

Dr. Richardson, after a halt of two days, had gone forward with the

boats.

All the portages on the road to Bear Lake being now passed, the

Canadians made a request, that we would allow them to commemorate the

event by a dance. It met with a ready compliance; and though they had

been paddling for thirty-six out of the thirty-nine preceding hours,

they kept up their favourite amusement until daylight, to the music of

bagpipes, relieved occasionally by the Jews' harp.

We rejoiced to find at this post our worthy old Copper-Indian friends,

Keskarrah and Humpy, the brother of Akaitcho, who had been waiting two

months for the express purpose of seeing us. These excellent men showed

that their gratification equalled ours, by repeatedly seizing our hands

and pressing them against their hearts, and exclaiming, "How much we

regret that we cannot tell what we feel for you here!" Akaitcho had left

the fort about two months on a hunting excursion, hoping to return, with

plenty of provision for our use, by the middle of August, which was as

early as he thought we should arrive. Keskarrah confirmed the melancholy

report we had heard in the more southern districts, that most of the

hunters who had been in our service at Fort Enterprise, had been

treacherously murdered, with many others of the tribe, by the Dog-Ribs,

with which nation we also learned the Copper-Indians had been at war,

since the year of our departure from them, till the last spring. The

peace had been effected through the mediation of Messrs. Dease and

M'Vicar, and we were gratified to find that Akaitcho and his tribe had

been principally induced to make this reconciliation, by a desire that

no impediment might be placed in the way of our present expedition. "We

have too much esteem," said Akaitcho, "for our father, and for the

service in which he is about to be again engaged, to impede its success

by our wars, and, therefore, they shall cease;" and on being asked by

Mr. Dease whether he and some of his young men would go to hunt for the

party at our winter quarters, he replied, "Our hearts will be with them,

but we will not go to those parts where the bones of our murdered

brethren lie, for fear our bad passions should be aroused at the sight

of their graves, and that we should be tempted to renew the war by the

recollection of the manner of their death. Let the Dog-Ribs who live in

the neighbourhood of Bear Lake furnish them with meat, though they are

our enemies." Such sentiments would do honour to any state of

civilization, and show that the most refined feelings may animate the

most untutored people. Happily we were now so circumstanced as to be

able to reward the friendship of these good men by allotting from our

stores a liberal present to the principal persons. On the delivery of

the articles to Keskarrah and Humpy, I desired them to communicate to

Akaitcho, and the whole tribe, the necessity of their strictly adhering

to the terms of peace, and assured them that I should not fail to urge

the same obligations on the Dog-Ribs. A silver royal medal, such as is

given to the Indian chiefs in Upper Canada, was likewise left with Mr.

M'Vicar, to be presented to Akaitcho, as a further mark of our regard

for his former services and present good wishes.

[Sidenote: Sunday, 31st.] The party was detained at Fort Resolution

until this morning by a strong south-west gale; and even when we

embarked, the wind and waves were still high, but time was too precious

to allow of our waiting when there was a prospect of making any advance.

As our future course inclined to the westward, we now quitted the track

of the former journey to Fort Enterprise, along which we had been

travelling from Lake Winipeg. We first steered for the Buffalo River,

and then along the south shore of Slave Lake, obtained the latitude 61

degrees 1 minute N. at noon, and afterwards the longitude 114 degrees

18-1/2 minutes W. at the Isle of the Dead. The islands and shores of

this part of the lake are composed of horizontal beds of limestone,

containing pitch and shells.

A small party of Chipewyan Indians, with their principal chief, joined

us at the encampment, from whom we learned that they had supplied Dr.

Richardson with dried meat the preceding noon, at Hay River. The Chief

was very importunate for rum, but I steadily adhered to the

determination I had formed this time, on my entering the Fur Country, of

not giving spirits to any Indian. A share of our supper and tea, and

some tobacco, were offered to him, and accepted, though with a bad

grace. The Fur Company ceased the following season to bring any rum to

this quarter, and I learned that this man was one of the few natives who

were highly displeased at this judicious change.

[Sidenote: Monday, 1st.] We coasted this day along the low shore of the

lake, steering from point to point to avoid the sinuosities of several

deep bays, and passed the mouth of the Sandy and Hay Rivers, whose

positions we settled by astronomical observations.

[Sidenote: Tuesday, 2nd.] On the 2nd we came to the narrow part between

the Big Island of Mackenzie, and the main shore, and perceived that a

gentle current was setting towards the Mackenzie river. The water in

this strait is very shallow, and also in many places near the south

shore, though we know, from trial, on the former Expedition, that the

depth of the east end of the lake, at a distance from the land, exceeds

sixty and seventy fathoms. The beach, both of the north and south shores

of the strait, is strewed with drift timber. In clear weather the north

shore is visible from the point of the south shore nearest Big Island.

Below this _detroit_ the shores recede so as to form a small shallow

lake, about twenty-four miles long, by from four to twelve miles broad,

near the north-west end of which we encamped, in latitude 61 degrees 15

minutes N., longitude 117 degrees 6 minutes W. This spot may be

considered as the commencement of Mackenzie River. The ground is very

swampy, and nourishes willows only; but inland, at a short distance from

the beach, grow plenty of the spruce-fir, poplar, aspen, and birch

trees; and among the underwood, numerous shrubs and berry-bearing

plants.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 3rd.] On the 3rd we travelled to another

contraction of the river about one mile broad, through which the current

sets between high banks with such force as to form strong eddies. There

are likewise in this part many sandy islands, and through the channels

between them the current rushed with no less rapidity than in that we

descended. For distinction's sake, these islands have been named the

"Isles of the Rapid:" below them occurs another expansion, which is

called by the voyagers "The Little Lake;" and Sandy Point at its

north-west end, is considered by them as the commencement of the

Mackenzie River.

When abreast of this point, a favouring breeze enabled us to use the

sail as well as the paddles, and with the assistance of the current

great progress was made. We had occasional glimpses of the Horn and

Rein-Deer Mountains as we passed along; but, until we were some way

below the rapids, our view was very limited, owing to the woods being on

fire in almost every direction. This I should have mentioned to have

been the case in many parts between Isle a la Crosse and the Mackenzie.

The cause of these extensive conflagrations I could not learn; some

attributed them to voluntary acts of the Indians, and others to their

negligence in leaving their fires burning.

We put up at sunset on a beach of gravel under a well-wooded bank of

moderate height, and the party regaled themselves with raspberries and

other indigenous fruits.

[Sidenote: Thursday, 4th.] At half past two A.M., on the 4th, the canoes

were again on the water, and being driven by sail and current, made good

way. We stopped at the Trout River, which flows in from the southward,

and ascertained its longitude 119 degrees 47 minutes W. The breadth of

the Mackenzie is here about two miles, and its banks are composed of a

muddy clay: the stones on the beach mostly limestone, with some boulders

of primitive rocks. The trees are of the kinds we had seen north of the

Athabasca Lake: they are here of a smaller size. Five miles below this

part, the Mackenzie is divided into several channels by islands, and the

current runs with increased swiftness, and strong eddies.

The latitude 61 degrees 26 minutes 30 seconds N. was obtained at noon;

it was the same as on the preceding day; so that our course, in the

interval, had been due west.

The banks now were higher, and for the next forty miles the breadth of

the stream did not exceed one mile, nor was less than half a mile; its

course inclined more to the north. We passed the site of the first

establishment that the North-West Company had made in these parts, which

was erected by Mr. Livingstone, one of the partners, who, with the whole

of the crew of his canoe, except one individual, were massacred by the

Esquimaux on the first attempt to open a trade with them.

At three P.M. a picturesque view opened upon us of a distant range of

mountains running east and west, and nearly at right angles to the

course of the river. The current being considerably increased by the

contribution of some streams near this place, we descended very swiftly.

Six miles below Pine Island, there is a strong but not a dangerous

rapid; and about fifteen miles farther is Fort Simpson, the principal

depot of the Hudson Bay Company for this department, at which we arrived

by eight P.M., and thus escaped a very wet, comfortless night. Dr.

Richardson had departed for Fort Norman the preceding day.

This establishment, three hundred and thirty-eight miles from Fort

Resolution on Slave Lake, is situated at the confluence of the River of

the Mountains and the Mackenzie. The former is the channel of

communication with a fur post not far distant from the Rocky Mountain

Range, from whence the residents here procure much of their provision,

including a tolerable supply of potatoes, which have been recently

introduced from the southern parts. Mr. Smith, the chief factor of the

district, was fortunately at Fort Simpson, so that I had the opportunity

of arranging with him as to supplies of provision or stores that my

party might require during its residence at Bear Lake. He cheerfully

acceded to every suggestion that was made, and likewise furnished me

with a letter of instruction to the same effect, addressed to the

gentleman in charge of the lower posts.

I learned from Mr. Smith that, as yet, a few only of the Indians who

live nearest the mouth of the river, and none of the Esquimaux, had been

apprized of our intended visit, the traders at the lower posts having

considered that it would be better to defer this communication until we

should arrive in the river, for fear of disappointing these people,

which might have been attended with unpleasant results.

There were two Canadians here belonging to the Expedition, whom Mr.

Dease had sent to serve as guides to Bear Lake. By letters which they

brought, I was informed that Indian hunters were engaged, and the

necessary buildings in course of preparation for our reception. As Fort

Simpson had been short of ammunition during the summer from some

accidental cause, I was glad to find that Mr. Dease had been enabled to

lend from our stores a barrel of powder, and a bag of balls and I now

increased the loan, so as to meet the probable demands of the Indians,

until the Company's supplies should arrive, when they would return to

Fort Norman the whole of what we had lent. Cloudy weather limited our

astronomical observations at this place to the dip of the needle, which

was observed 81 degrees 54 minutes.

[Sidenote: Friday, 5th.] We quitted the fort on the 5th, soon after noon,

whence the river preserving nearly a straight course for fifteen miles,

gradually extends itself to nearly two miles in breadth; in its channel

there are three islands. At two P.M. we obtained the first glimpse of

the Rocky Mountains, and kept them in view until we encamped, which was

early, as the canoes required gumming. The outline of the mountains was

very peaked, and at their easternmost part was a cone-shaped hill,

higher than the rest, whose summit was veiled by clouds. The general

appearance of the range somewhat reminded me of the east end of Jamaica.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 6th.] The morning of the 6th was beautifully fine:

we embarked at 2h 30m A.M., and by seven came within six or seven miles

of the mountain range, where the river suddenly changes its course from

W.b.N. to north, in longitude 123 degrees 31 minutes W.

A distinct stratification was perceptible on the face of the nearest

mountain: on one side of a nearly perpendicular ravine the strata dip to

the southward at an angle of 25 degrees; whilst on the other they are

nearly horizontal. There was a large accumulation of debris at its base:

every part of the hill was destitute of vegetation. Its altitude was

guessed at one thousand two hundred feet.

At noon, in latitude 62 degrees 49 minutes N., we saw a chain of

mountains, on the eastern side of the river, similar in their outline

and general character to those hitherto seen only on the opposite bank.

Between these ranges the river flowed in a channel two miles broad; but

as we advanced we receded from those on the western side, their

direction being W.N.W. In the brilliancy of the sunshine, the surfaces

of some of the eastern hills, which were entirely bare, appeared white

as marble, and for some time we fancied them to be covered with snow. By

four P.M. we reached the Rocky Island mentioned by Mackenzie, where,

from the river being contracted, the current flowed with great rapidity,

and soon brought us opposite to the remarkable hill close by the river

side, which that persevering traveller ascended in July, 1789. His

account renders a description of it unnecessary. It is composed of

limestone, and is about four hundred feet high.

We continued a N.b.W. course for eight miles, and encamped at sunset,

having travelled this day one hundred and twenty miles. A small supply

of fresh deer's meat was obtained from some Dog-Rib Indians. Their

canoes were made of the bark of the pine-tree, sewn at the ends and top

with the fibrous parts of the root of that tree, leaving only a space

sufficient for the legs of the sitter.

[Sidenote: Sunday, 7th.] We pursued our course at dawn of day, and at

the end of a few miles came to a more winding part of the river, where

the stream is interrupted by numerous sand banks and shoals which we had

some trouble to get round. Mr. Kendall, in his Journal, remarks of this

part, "That bubbles of air continually rose to the surface with a

hissing noise resembling the effervescence produced by pouring water on

quick lime."

We arrived at Fort Norman at ten, A.M., distant two hundred and

thirty-six miles from Fort Simpson, and five hundred and seventy-four

from Fort Resolution.

Being now only four days' journey from Bear Lake, and there remaining

yet five or six weeks of open season, I resolved on following up a plan

of a voyage to the sea, which I had cherished ever since leaving

England, without imparting it to my companions, until our departure from

Fort Chipewyan, because I was apprehensive that some unforeseen accident

might occur in the course of the very intricate and dangerous river

navigation between Fort William and the Athabasca Lake, which might

delay our arrival here to too late a period of the year. It was

arranged, _first_, that I should go down to the sea, accompanied by Mr.

Kendall, and collect whatever information could be obtained, either from

actual observation, or from the intelligence of the Loucheux Indians, or

the Esquimaux, respecting the general state of the ice in the summer and

autumn; the direction of the coast, east and west of the Mackenzie; and

whether we might calculate upon any supply of provision. _Secondly_, Dr.

Richardson, on his own suggestion was to proceed in a boat along the

northern shore of Bear Lake, to the part where it approached nearest to

the Coppermine River, and there fix upon a spot to which he might bring

the party the following year, on its return from the mouth of that

river. And, _thirdly_, that these undertakings might not interfere with

the important operations necessary for the comfortable residence and

subsistence of the Expedition during the following winter, Lieutenant

Back was to superintend them during my absence, with the assistance of

Mr. Dease, chief trader of the Hudson Bay Company, whose suggestions,

relative to the proper distribution of the Indian hunters, and the

station of the fishermen, he was to follow. Accordingly, Dr. Richardson,

on his quitting this place two days previous to our arrival, had left

the largest of the boats, the Lion, for my use and a well-selected crew

of six Englishmen, and Augustus the Esquimaux.

Lieutenant Back was directed to take the canoes forward to Bear Lake,

laden with such supplies as would be required for the winter, and was

further instructed to furnish Dr. Richardson with one of the boats, and

a good crew. The services of the Canadians who had brought the canoes

from Penetanguishene, being no longer required, I desired Lieutenant

Back to discharge them, and also all the voyagers of Mr. Dease's party

who could be spared. They were sent in canoes to Slave Lake, where I had

arranged with Mr. M'Vicar for their being supplied with the means of

gaining subsistence by fishing, during the winter; and the following

spring, they were to be forwarded to Canada, at the expense of

Government, according to the terms of their agreement.

Fort Norman being situated in our way to the sea, the pemmican and other

stores, intended for the voyage along the coast next season, were

deposited here, by permission of Mr. Smith, under the care of Mr.

Brisbois, the clerk in charge. Our observations place this establishment

in latitude 64 degrees 40 minutes 30 seconds N., and longitude 124

degrees 53 minutes 22 seconds W.

[Sidenote: Monday, 8th.] The above matters being satisfactorily settled,

and a few articles packed up as presents to the Indians and Esquimaux,

Mr. Kendall and I embarked on the 8th, at noon, taking, in addition to

our crew, a voyager, who was reported to be able to guide us through the

proper channels to Fort Good Hope, of which, however, we found him

altogether ignorant. We were accompanied by Lieutenant Back, with the

three canoes, each manned by five men. The crews of the canoes imagining

they could easily pass our English boat, were much surprised, on putting

it to the proof, to find the boat take and maintain the lead, both under

sail and with oars.

A few miles above the Bear Lake River, and near its mouth, the banks of

the Mackenzie contain much wood coal, which was on fire at the time we

passed, as it had been observed to be by Mackenzie in his voyage to the

sea. Its smell was very disagreeable. On a subsequent trial of this coal

at our winter quarters, we found that it emitted little heat, and was

unfit for the blacksmith's use. The banks likewise contain layers of a

kind of unctuous mud, similar, perhaps, to that found on the borders of

the Orinoco, which the Indians, in this neighbourhood, use occasionally

as food during seasons of famine, and even, at other times, chew as an

amusement. It has a milky taste, and the flavour is not disagreeable. We

used it for whitening the walls of our dwellings; for which purpose it

is well adapted.

The entrance of the Bear Lake River is distinguished by a very

remarkable mountain, whose summit displays a variety of insulated peaks,

crowded in the most irregular manner. It is composed of limestone; and

from the lower cliffs, which front the river, a dark, bituminous liquid

oozes and discolours the rock. There are likewise two streams of

sulphureous water that flow from its base into the Mackenzie. At this

place we parted from our friend, Lieutenant Back, who entered the clear

and beautiful stream that flows from Bear Lake, of whose pure waters we

had also the benefit, till they were overpowered by the muddy current of

the Mackenzie. The day was fine, the wind fair, the current swift, and

every circumstance concurred to put the party in high glee. There was

little in the scenery to attract our attention, now that we had become

familiar with the general appearance of the Mackenzie, and we passed

island after island, of the same alluvial mud, without further regard

than the delineation of them in the survey book. At length, however, a

most picturesque view of the Rocky Mountain range opened before us, and

excited general admiration, and we had also some portions of the

mountain range on the eastern side of the river, in view for the

remainder of the day's journey. The outline of these mountains is very

irregular, the highest parts being peaked hills. The general direction

of the ranges is between N.W. and N.W.b.W.

Being unwilling to lose the advantage of the wind, we only put ashore to

sup, and after two hours' delay, resumed our voyage under easy sail.

[Sidenote: Tuesday, 9th.] When the sun rose, the oars were used; and

then, as the current set at the rate of two miles and a half per hour,

the boat travelled swiftly down the stream. The eastern bank of the

river, along which we were passing, is about one hundred and twenty feet

high, almost perpendicular, and is composed of thin strata of bituminous

shale. Amongst the fragments of shale which strewed the beach, we found

many pieces of brown wood-coal. A reach, eighteen miles in length,

followed. It is bounded on both sides by high cliffs of sand-stone. We

landed to breakfast, and to obtain the longitude, 128 degrees 23 minutes

W.

From the reach here described, are seen two hills, named by me the East

and West Mountains of the rapid, which seem to present a barrier to the

further progress of the stream; but the river, bending suddenly between

them to the north, dilates into a kind of basin, and, by so doing, opens

by far the most interesting view of the Rocky Mountains which the

Mackenzie affords. The river, too, makes its nearest approach to those

mountains at this spot, and probably, the easiest communication with

them would be by ascending a small stream that flows in here on the

western side. Here too are found the first rapids mentioned by

Mackenzie, which continue in succession for two miles, when the water is

low. The centre of the basin is occupied by low sandy islands; and the

channel on the western side is the deepest. The beauty of this scene

furnished employment for the able pencil of Lieutenant Back, on a

subsequent occasion. As the Mackenzie, in its further descent, continues

to hold a northerly course, and the range of mountains runs N.W.b.N., we

did not obtain any other view of them till we approached the sea.

At one P.M. we saw a party of Indians encamped on the beach of a small

stream, whom we invited to come off to us. They hesitated at first,

being doubtful who we were, from our boat being different in shape from

any they had seen, and carrying two sails; but after some time they

launched their canoes, and brought us a good supply of fresh deer's

meat. The sight of our boats seemed to delight them as much as the

ammunition and tobacco which they received. These were Hare Indians, the

tribe that follows next to the Dog-Ribs, in the line of country below

Bear Lake; and, like them, they speak a dialect of the Chipewyan

language. We admired the shape and appearance of their canoes, which

were larger than those used by the Chipewyans, and had the fore part

covered with bark, to fit them for the navigation of this broad river,

where the waves are often high.

The river varied from two to four miles in breadth, and its course was

interrupted by several small islands and sand-banks. At six P.M. we came

to an open space, bounded by lofty walls of sandstone. In this expansion

are found the second rapids of Mackenzie: at the first appearance they

seem dangerous, but are not so. The river becomes again contracted, and

rushes with great force for the space of seven miles through a kind of

defile, varying in breadth from four hundred to eight hundred yards,

which has been appropriately named "The Ramparts," by the traders. The

walls of this defile are from eighty to one hundred and fifty feet high,

and are composed of limestone, containing numerous shells: for a part of

the way the stone is very white, and in the rest it is blue. Several

streams of water were running over the summits of the cliffs, which had

worn the stone in some places, into a turreted shape; while the heaps,

overthrown by its action at their base, resemble mounds for defence. To

these appearances were occasionally added cavernous openings, and other

hollow parts, not unlike the arched windows or gateways of a castellated

building. I could not help fancying what delight a visit to this spot

would afford to any person of a romantic turn, especially at the time we

first saw it, when the broad shadows of a declining sun gave effect to

the picture. This is a place of resort for the Hare Indians to fish, and

we were visited by a large party of men and women of that tribe, who

brought fish, berries, and meat. They were all neatly clothed in new

leathern dresses, highly ornamented with beads and porcupine quills. The

paintings of animals on the sides of our boats were very attractive to

them; they scanned every figure over and over, bursting into laughter

whenever they recognised any of the animals. We encamped near a small

river below the ramparts, one hundred and ninety-three miles from Fort

Norman. Two young Indians followed us in their canoes, bringing some

musk-rat skins, and fish for sale. We purchased the fish, but declined

taking the furs. They were so pleased with their reception, that they

passed the night by our fire.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 10th.] At daylight we again embarked, and

descended the river pleasantly and swiftly under sail, having the

benefit of a strong current, especially where it was narrowed by islands

or sand-banks. The sides of the river are generally high cliffs of

limestone or sandstone, and its breadth from two to three miles. The

intervals between these cliffs are mostly occupied by hills of sand,

from eighty to one hundred feet high, whose intermediate valleys are

well wooded; and whenever these occur, the channel of the river is much

interrupted by banks, on which, as well as on the beach, there are vast

collections of drift timber, piled, in some places, twenty feet high, by

the spring floods.

At eleven P.M. we arrived at Fort Good Hope, the lowest of the

Company's establishments; it is distant from Fort Norman three hundred

and twelve miles, and is in latitude 67 degrees 28 minutes 21 seconds

N., and longitude 130 degrees 51 minutes 38 seconds W.: the variation of

the compass being 47 degrees 28 minutes 41 seconds E. Our arrival at

this period of the year, at least two months earlier than that of the

Company's boats from York Factory, caused great astonishment to the few

inmates of this dreary dwelling, and particularly to its master, Mr.

Charles Dease, who scarcely recovered from his surprise until we had

been seated some time in his room. But this over, he quickly put every

one in motion to prepare a meal for us, of which we stood in much need,

as it was then verging on midnight, and we had breakfasted at eight in

the morning. This post had been but recently established for the

convenience of the tribe of Indians whom Mackenzie calls the

Quarrellers, but whom the traders throughout the fur country name

Loucheux. As this name is now in general use, I shall adopt it, though

it is but justice to the people to say, that they have bright sparkling

eyes, without the least tendency to that obliquity which might be

inferred from the term. The fact is, that Loucheux, or Squinter, was

intended to convey the sense of the Indian name of the tribe--Deguthee

Dennee, which means "the people who avoid the arrows of their enemies,

by keeping a look out on both sides." None of the tribe was at this time

at the fort; but from Mr. Dease we learned the interesting fact, that

the Loucheux and Esquimaux, who are generally at war, had met amicably

the preceding spring, and that they were now at peace. We procured from

the store an assortment of beads, and such things as were most in

request with the Loucheux, and made up a small package of clothing to be

presented to each chief of that tribe, whose favour it was thought

advisable by this means to propitiate, as they were the next neighbours

to the Esquimaux.

[Sidenote: Thursday, 11th.] After the latitude had been observed, we

embarked, and were accompanied by Mr. Dease as far as Trading River,

where he expected there might still be a party of Indians, which did not

prove the case. This river being the usual limit of the trader's travels

towards the sea, the voyager who had come with us from Fort Norman

declined going any farther, and by permission of Mr. Dease he was

exchanged for a young half-breed named Baptiste, the interpreter of the

fort, who went under the promise of being left with the chief of the

Loucheux, to whom he was to introduce the party.

The reach below Trading River is remarkable, from the banks on the

eastern side consisting of hills of a light yellow marl-slate, nearly

uniform in shape, and strongly resembling piles of cannon shot. The name

of Cannon-Shot Reach was, therefore, bestowed on it. The channel of the

river is very intricate, winding amongst numerous sand-banks, and some

low alluvial islands, on which willows only grow. Its breadth is about

two miles, and the depth of water, in the autumn, from six to twelve

feet. In passing through Cannon-Shot Reach, we were hailed by an Indian

from the shore, and landed immediately, to inform him of the purport of

our visit. As soon as Baptiste had explained these matters to him, the

man, deeming it of importance that we should be properly introduced to

his relatives, offered to accompany us to the next party, providing we

would undertake to carry his baggage. This we consented to do, little

expecting, from the appearance of poverty in himself and his family, and

still less from that of his tent, a mere covering of bark and pine

branches, supported on three poles, that load upon load of unsavoury

fish would be tossed into the boat. However, we were unwilling to

retract our promise, and suffered our vessel to be completely lumbered.

We then pushed off, leaving the family to follow in the canoe, but in a

short time our ears were assailed by the loud cries of the man demanding

that we should stop. On his coming up, we found he was apprehensive of

the canoe sinking, it being very leaky and overloaded, and of his losing

his wife and infant child. The water being thrown out, the man proposed

going forward and keeping by our side. There was nothing now to fear,

yet the lamentations of the woman became louder and louder, and at last

the poor creature threw off her only covering, raised the most piteous

cries, and appeared a perfect object of despair. We learned from

Baptiste that she was mourning the loss of two near relatives who had

recently died near the spot we were passing. In this manner do these

simple people show their sorrow for the death of their connexions. As we

drew near the tents of the party on shore, the husband proclaimed with a

stentorian voice who we were; this produced a long reply, of which

Baptiste could only collect enough to inform us that many persons were

lying sick in the lodges, and that two had died the preceding day. Not

choosing to expose ourselves to the hazard of contagion, we put the

baggage of our friend on shore at some distance below the lodges. All

those who were able to manage a canoe, came off to receive presents, and

to see Augustus, the principal object of attraction. Each person

crowded to the side on which he sat to shake him by the hand; and two of

the party, who had been occasionally with the Esquimaux, contrived to

make him understand that, being accompanied by him, we need apprehend no

violence from them, though they were a treacherous people. At the end of

five miles farther we put on shore to sup, and afterwards slept in the

boat; but Augustus spread his blankets on the beach before the fire, and

allowed four of the Loucheux, who had followed us from the tents, to

share them with him.

[Sidenote: Friday, 12th.] At daylight we loosened from the beach, and

continued with the descent of the river; winding, in our course, as

numerous sand-banks rendered necessary. In a few hours we descried

another collection of Indian lodges. One of the party happened to be

examining his nets nearer to us than the tents; on espying the boat, he

immediately desisted, and paddled towards his friends with the utmost

speed, bawling the whole way for them to arm. The women and children

were seen hurrying up the bank to hide themselves; and by the time we

had got abreast of the lodges, the whole party were in a state of

defence. They stood on the beach gazing at us evidently with much

distrust; and for some time no one would accept our invitations to

approach. At length an adventurous youth, distinguishable among the rest

by the gaiety of his dress, and the quantity of beads that were

suspended around his neck, launched his canoe and paddled gently towards

the boat, till he discovered Augustus, whom he knew by his countenance

to be an Esquimaux; then rising from his seat, he threw up his hands for

joy, and desired every one of the party to embark at once. The summons

was instantly obeyed, and a friendly intercourse followed; each person

that had a gun discharging its contents, and taking the iron heads and

barbs from the arrows, to show their entire confidence. On landing to

breakfast, we found that the dialect of this party was different from

that of the men we had seen yesterday, and that Baptiste did not

understand their language; consequently our communications were carried

on by signs, except when they attempted to speak Esquimaux, which

Augustus, with difficulty, made out. He was still the centre of

attraction, notwithstanding Mr. Kendall and myself were dressed in

uniform, and were distributing presents to them. They caressed Augustus,

danced and played around him, to testify their joy at his appearance

among them, and we could not help admiring the demeanour of our

excellent little companion under such unusual and extravagant marks of

attention. He received every burst of applause, every shake of the hand,

with modesty and affability, but would not allow them to interrupt him

in the preparation of our breakfast, a task which he always delighted to

perform. As soon as we had finished our meal, he made his friends sit

down, and distributed to each person a portion of his own, but without

any affectation of superiority. When we were on the point of embarking,

the oldest Indian of the party intimated his desire that we should stop

until some one whom he had sent for should come. This proved to be his

son, in a very sickly state. Though the day was warm, the lad was

shivering with cold, and it was evident he was suffering from fever,

which the father had no doubt we could cure. The only remedy we could

apply was some warm tea, with a little brandy in it, which we afterwards

learned had the desired effect of restoring the invalid. Again we were

preparing to set off, when the same old man begged us to stop until the

women should come; these were no less pleased with Augustus, and with

the presents they received, than the men had been.

This good-natured tribe is distinguished by the traders as the Lower

Loucheux, but the literal meaning of their Indian name is the Sharp

Eyes. They are decidedly a well-looking people: in manner, and general

appearance, they resemble the Esquimaux near the mouth of the Mackenzie,

though not in their eyes, which are prominent and full. Their canoes,

too, are shaped like those of the Esquimaux, and made of birch bark,

which, by some process, is striped from the gunwale perpendicularly

downwards, for the purpose of ornament. Their summer dress, like that of

the Upper Loucheux and Esquimaux, is a jacket of leather, prolonged to a

point before and behind: the leggings, of the same material, are sewn to

the shoes, and tied by a string round the waist. The outer edges of

their dress are cut into fringes, coloured with red and yellow earth,

and generally decorated with beads. Beads are so much coveted by them,

that, for some years, they were the principal article of trade exchanged

for their furs; and even now the successful hunter, or the favourite

son, may be known by the quantity of strings of different coloured beads

which he has about his neck. These Indians are the only natives of

America, except the Esquimaux, whom I have seen with the septum of the

nose perforated, through which, like the Esquimaux, they thrust pieces

of bone, or small strings of shells, which they purchase from that

people. Few of them have guns, but each man is armed with a bow and

arrows. The bows are constructed of three pieces of wood, the middle one

straight, and those at each end crooked, and bound with sinews, of which

the string is also made. The dress of the women only differs from that

of the men by the hood being made sufficiently wide to admit of their

carrying a child on their back.

At ten A.M. we resumed our journey, followed by the young man who had

first spoken to us, and his brother, in their canoes, and in the course

of two hours came abreast of a remarkable round-backed hill, on which we

were informed Mr. Livingstone and his party had encamped in 1795, the

night before they were massacred. This hill marks the commencement of

another contraction of the river, which is here pent in between very

steep cliffs of blue limestone, which I have denominated the Narrows.

The Red River contributes its waters to the Mackenzie at the lower part

of the Narrows, in latitude 67 degrees 27 minutes N., longitude 133

degrees 31 minutes W.; and, though of inconsiderable size, is remarkable

as being the boundary between the lands claimed by the Loucheux Indians

and those of the Esquimaux, and likewise as the spot where the amicable

meeting between these tribes had been held in the preceding spring. We

did not find the chief of the Loucheux here, as had been expected, and

therefore passed on. The banks of the river, now entirely composed of

sand and sandstone, became gradually lower, and more bare of trees. At

the end of eight miles we arrived at a very spacious opening, in which

were numerous well-wooded islands, and various channels. The rocky

mountains on the west once more appeared in view, extending from S.W. to

N.W. and preserving a N.W.1/2W. direction; and of this range a very

lofty peak, and a table mountain, which I have named after the late Mr.

Gifford, form the most conspicuous features. We steered into the eastern

channel, as being that through which the current seemed to run swiftest;

and as soon as we came to a high bank we landed, for the purpose of

taking a survey of the surrounding scene. But even from its summit our

view was very limited, and all we could discover was, that we were

certainly in that expansion of the river that Mackenzie delineates in

his chart, and, therefore, in the fair way to the sea, whatever channel

we took. This might have been inferred, from the sudden departure of our

two Indian companions, who dropped behind and turned their canoes round,

without further ceremony, as soon as they saw our intention of entering

the eastern channel. Baptiste, who was asleep at the time, expressed

surprise at their having gone back, but consoled himself with the idea

of meeting the Indian chief the next morning, at a place he called the

Forks. We were amused at conjecturing how great his surprise would be

should he next be disturbed by the hallowing of a party of Esquimaux,

whom he greatly dreaded. At the end of twenty-three miles descent in the

middle channel, having passed one that branched off to the eastward, we

put up at an early hour, and caused the guns to be cleaned, and two

sentinels appointed to watch, lest the Esquimaux should come upon us

unawares. The banks of the river, as well as the islands, are entirely

alluvial, and support willows at the lower parts, and the spruce-fir

trees at the summits. The beach on which we were encamped was much

intersected with the recent tracts of the moose and rein-deer.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 13th.] We embarked at three A.M. on the 13th; and

as we were in momentary expectation of meeting the Esquimaux with whom I

wished to have an interview, the masts were struck, lest they should

discover the boat at a distance, and run off. We soon passed two of

their huts, which did not seem to have been recently inhabited. The

longitude 134 degrees 20 minutes 30 seconds W., and variation 51 degrees

4 minutes 20 seconds E., were observed at the time we halted to

breakfast, and the latitude 68 degrees 15 minutes 50 seconds N., at

noon. The Rein-deer mountains on the eastern side, came in view before

noon. The range on the west was also occasionally visible: we were

descending between the M'Gillivray and Simpson islands, in a channel

that did not exceed half a mile in breadth. A fine breeze sprung up

after noon, of which we took advantage by setting the sails, not having

seen any recent traces of the Esquimaux. At the extremity of Simpson

island there is a broad channel, which pours its waters into the one in

which we were, at a place where the stream is contracted by a small

island, and a strong rapid is the consequence of this junction. Here we

found many huts, and other indications of its being a place of resort

for fishing; here, too, it is supposed Mr. Livingstone and his crew fell

a sacrifice to the first party of Esquimaux whom they met. Several other

openings branched off to the eastward; but we continued to follow the

largest channel, in which the current was very strong, and kept nearly

parallel to, and about ten miles from, the Rein-deer mountains. Their

outline, viewed from this distance, appeared very regular, the only

remarkable parts being some eminences that were tinged with a deep pink

colour. Sailing by one of the huts at a quick rate, every one's

attention was arrested at hearing a shrill sound, which was supposed to

be a human voice; but on landing to ascertain the fact, we could find no

person, nor any footsteps. We, therefore, continued our journey. As we

proceeded, the river became more devious in its course, the huts on the

Esquimaux were now more frequent; none of them, however, seemed to have

been recently inhabited. The islands were of the same alluvial kind as

those seen yesterday, and the wood on them equally plentiful and large.

We stopped to sup at nine, extinguished the fire as soon as we had

finished, and then retired to sleep in the boat, keeping two men on

guard.

[Sidenote: Sunday, 14th.] We set off aided by a fresh breeze this

morning, and at the end of seven miles came to the last of the fir

trees, in latitude 68 degrees 40 minutes N., the only wood beyond this

being stunted willows, which became still more dwarfish at thirty miles

from the mouth of the river. There was plenty of drift-wood on the

borders of the islands, and some even on the higher parts, at a distance

from the water; from which it would appear that at certain seasons they

are inundated. At length the main stream took a turn to the S.S.W.,

which we followed, though there was a branch northwards, but it seemed

to be much impeded by mud-banks.[1] At the end of eight miles the river

again inclined to the north of west, round the southern extremity of

Halkett island, and there were openings to the north and south, which we

did not stop to examine. A fog-bank hung over the northern horizon,

which gave us no little uneasiness, from its strong resemblance to a

continuous line of ice-blink; and the clouds, from the sun-beams falling

on them, had the exact appearance of icebergs. However, the sun became

sufficiently powerful in the afternoon to dissipate the cause of this

illusion, and relieve us from anxiety on that score. A body of water,

nearly equal to that we were descending, poured in between the Colville

and Halkett islands with such force as to cause a very strong ripple at

the point of junction, which we avoided by keeping close to the shore of

Langley island. The channel, after the union of these streams, increased

to a breadth of two miles, preserving a N.N.W. course. We stood twelve

miles in this direction, and two to the westward, when we were gratified

by the delightful prospect of the shore suddenly diverging, and a wide

space of open water to the northward, which we doubted not would prove

to be the sea. Just at this time a seal made its appearance, and sported

about the boat as if in confirmation of this opinion. We attempted to

coast along the shore of Ellice island, but found the water too shallow,

and that the boat grounded whenever we got out of the channel of the

river, which was near the western side. The wind and waves were too high

for us to make any progress in the middle of the stream, and as the

clouds threatened more boisterous weather, we went to Pitt island to

encamp. The haze which had hidden all distant objects since five P.M.

passed off as the sun set, and we gained a very magnificent view of that

portion of the rocky mountain which I have called after my companion Dr.

Richardson, and of which the remarkable conical peak, named in honour of

my friend Dr. Fitton, President of the Geological Society, and the

Cupola mountain, are the most conspicuous objects. These were

subsequently found to be near sixty miles distant. The water was

entirely fresh, and there was no perceptible rise of tide. Our drowsy

companion Baptiste, when he looked upon the vast expanse of water, for

the first time, expressed some apprehension that we had passed the

Forks, and that there was a doubt of our seeing the Indian chief; but he

was by no means convinced of the fact until the following day, when he

tasted salt water, and lost sight of the main shore. After our Sunday

evening's supper, the party assembled in the tent to read prayers, and

return thanks to the Almighty, for having thus far crowned our labours

with success.

[Sidenote: Monday, 15th.] In the morning of the fifteenth the wind blew

a gale, as it had done through the night, and every object was obscured

by a thick fog. About six A.M. we took advantage of a temporary

abatement of the wind to cross over to some higher land on the eastern

side, which we had seen the preceding evening, appearing like islands.

Owing to the thickness of the fog, we were guided in our course at

starting solely by the compass. When we reached the channel of the

river, the gale returned with increased violence, and its direction

being opposite to the current, such high waves were raised, that the

boat took in a good deal of water. The fog now cleared away, and the

three eminences mistaken for islands were ascertained to be conical

hummocks, rising above the low eastern shore. We pushed for the nearest,

and landed a short distance from its base at eight A.M. On going to the

summit of this eminence, in the expectation of obtaining the bearings of

several distant points, we were a little disappointed to find that only

the low shores of Pitt Island were visible, extending from S.E. to

W.N.W., though we were repaid for our visit by observing two moose deer

quietly browsing on the tops of the willows, a short distance from us.

Mr. Kendall hastened down to despatch Baptiste in pursuit of them, who

returned an hour afterwards to inform us that he had wounded one, which

he had been prevented from following by the loss of his powder-horn. As

there was no possibility of our getting forward until the gale abated,

Baptiste and Augustus were sent out to hunt, there being numerous tracks

of moose and rein-deer in the neighbourhood of the tent. I also

despatched Mr. Kendall, with two seamen, to walk some distance into the

interior, and endeavour to clear up the doubt whether we were upon the

main shore, or upon an island. The astronomical observations obtained at

the encampment place it in latitude 69 degrees 3 minutes 45 seconds N.,

longitude 135 degrees 44 minutes 57 seconds W. A tide-pole was put up

immediately on our landing, and we perceived the water to rise about

three inches in the course of the forenoon, and to fall the same

quantity in the evening. The temperature of the air did not exceed

forty-eight degrees all this day: when in the river, it used to vary

from 55 degrees to 70 degrees. Mr. Kendall came back in the evening,

bringing the agreeable intelligence that he had assisted in killing a

female moose and her calf, and that Augustus had shot a rein-deer. Some

men were sent to carry the meat to the borders of a river which Mr.

Kendall had discovered, while the boat went round to its entrance about

one mile from the encampment. They returned at sunset. Many geese and

ducks were seen by our hunters. Throughout the whole of Mr. Kendall's

walk, of twelve or fourteen miles, he saw only the same kind of flat

land, covered with the dwarf willow and the moose-berry plant, as was

discovered from the tent, except one small lake, and the river that has

been mentioned, issuing from it.

[Sidenote: Tuesday, 16th.] The atmosphere was so thick on the morning of

the 16th as to confine our view to a few yards; we therefore remained at

the encampment till the sun had sufficient power to remove the fog:

temperature of the air 39 degrees. Embarking at eleven A.M., we

continued our course along the shore of Ellice Island, until we found

its coast trending southward of east. There we landed, and were rejoiced

at the sea-like appearance to the northward. This point is in latitude

69 degrees 14 minutes N., longitude 135 degrees 57 minutes W., and forms

the north-eastern entrance to the main channel of the Mackenzie River,

which, from Slave Lake to this point, is one thousand and forty-five

miles according to our survey. An island was now discovered to the

N.E., looking blue from its distance, towards which the boat was

immediately directed. The water, which for the last eight miles had been

very shallow, became gradually deeper, and of a more green colour,

though still fresh, even when we had entirely lost sight of the eastern

land. In the middle of the traverse, we were caught by a strong contrary

wind, against which our crews cheerfully contended for five hours,

though drenched by the spray, and even by the waves, which came into the

boat. Unwilling to return without attaining the object of our search,

when the strength of the rowers was nearly exhausted, as a last

resource, the sails were set double-reefed, and our excellent boat

mounted over the waves in the most buoyant manner. An opportune

alteration of the wind enabled us, in the course of another hour, to

fetch into smoother water, under the shelter of the island. We then

pulled across a line of strong ripple which marked the termination of

the fresh water, that on the seaward side being brackish; and in the

further progress of three miles to the island, we had the indescribable

pleasure of finding the water decidedly salt.

The sun was setting as the boat touched the beach, and we hastened to

the most elevated part of the island, about two hundred and fifty feet

high, to look around; and never was a prospect more gratifying than that

which lay open to us. The Rocky Mountains were seen from S.W. to

W.1/2N.; and from the latter point, round by the north, the sea appeared

in all its majesty, entirely free from ice, and without any visible

obstruction to its navigation. Many seals, and black and white whales

were sporting on its waves; and the whole scene was calculated to excite

in our minds the most flattering expectations as to our own success, and

that of our friends in the Hecla and the Fury. There were two groups of

islands at no great distance; to the one bearing south-east I had the

pleasure of affixing the name of my excellent friend and companion Mr.

Kendall, and to that bearing north-east the name of Pelly was given, as

a tribute justly due to the Governor of the Hudson Bay Company, for his

earnest endeavours to promote the progress and welfare of the

Expedition. A similar feeling towards my much esteemed friend Mr. Garry,

the Deputy Governor of the Company, prompted me to appropriate his name

to the island on which we stood,--a poor, indeed, but heartfelt

expression of gratitude, for all his active kindness and indefatigable

attention to the comfort of myself and my companions.

During our absence the men had pitched the tent on the beach, and I

caused the silk union-flag to be hoisted, which my deeply-lamented wife

had made and presented to me, as a parting gift, under the express

injunction that it was not to be unfurled before the Expedition reached

the sea. I will not attempt to describe my emotions as it expanded to

the breeze--however natural, and, for the moment, irresistible, I felt

that it was my duty to suppress them, and that I had no right, by an

indulgence of my own sorrows, to cloud the animated countenances of my

companions. Joining, therefore, with the best grace that I could

command, in the general excitement, I endeavoured to return with

corresponding cheerfulness, their warm congratulations on having thus

planted the British flag on this remote island of the Polar Sea.

Some spirits, which had been saved for the occasion, were issued to the

men; and with three fervent cheers they drank to the health of our

beloved monarch, and to the continued success of our enterprize. Mr.

Kendall and I had also reserved a little of our brandy, in order to

celebrate this interesting event; but Baptiste, in his delight of

beholding the sea, had set before us some salt water, which having been

mixed with the brandy before the mistake was discovered, we were

reluctantly obliged to forego the intended draught, and to use it in the

more classical form of a libation poured on the ground.

Baptiste, on discovering that he had actually reached the ocean, stuck

his feathers in his hat, and exultingly exclaimed, "Now that I am one of

the _Gens de la mer_, you shall see how active I will be, and how I will

crow over the _Gens du nord_," the name by which the Athabasca voyagers

are designated. No fresh water was found on Garry Island until Augustus

discovered a small lake, the streams that poured down from the cliffs

being as salt as the sea. The temperature of the sea water was 51

degrees; the fresh water we had left at five miles from the island 55

degrees; and that of the air 52 degrees.

Garry Island is about five miles long, by two broad, and seems to be a

mass of frozen mud, which, in the parts exposed to the air and sun, has

a black earthy appearance. It is terminated to the north-west by a steep

cliff, through which protrude, in a highly inclined position, several

layers of wood-coal, similar to that found in the Mackenzie. There was

likewise observed a bituminous liquid trickling down in many parts, but

particularly near the south-west point of the cliff where the bank had

been broken away, and a hollow cavity was formed. The ravines and

gullies were still filled with ice, though none was seen on the level

ground. There were no stones above the sea level; those on the beach

consisted of granite, greenstone, quartz, and lydian-stone, of a small

size and completely rounded. The vegetable productions were grasses, a

few mosses, and some shrubs, the latter in flower. Four foxes were the

only land animals we saw; and a small hawk, some gulls, dotterels, and

phaleropes, composed the list of birds. A large medusa was found on the

beach.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 17th.] The sky was cloudless on the morning of the

17th, which enabled us to ascertain the position of our encampment to be

in latitude 69 degrees 29 minutes N., longitude 135 degrees 41 minutes

W., and the variation of the magnetic needle to be 51 degrees 42 minutes

E. We likewise found that it was high water that day at one P.M. with a

rise and fall of eight inches, but the direction of the flood could not

be ascertained. I wrote for Captain Parry an account of our progress,

with such information as he might require, in case he wished to

communicate either with the Company's Post at Fort Good Hope, or our

party, and deposited my letter, with many others that I had in charge

for himself and the officers of the ships, under a pole erected for the

purpose, on which we left a blue and red flag flying, to attract his

attention. Another statement of our proceedings was encased in a

waterproof box, and committed to the sea, a mile to the northward of the

island. The wind blew strong off the land at the time, and there was a

gale from the north-west the next day, so that there is every chance of

the letter having made good way to the eastward.

Having completed the observations, we embarked at two P.M., and pulled

along the western shore of the island three miles to the sandy spit at

its south-west end, on which there was a vast quantity of drift-wood

piled by the action of the waves. From this point we launched forth to

cross towards the Mackenzie under double-reefed sails, as the wind was

blowing strong, and the waves high in the offing; but finding the boat

very stiff and buoyant, the sail was increased, and reaching the eastern

point of Ellice Island by seven P.M. we encamped at the foot of the

outermost of the three hummocks mentioned on the 15th of August. As we

passed along the shore of the island, we disturbed some moose and

rein-deer, and several geese, cranes, and swans, that were quietly

feeding near the water. At this period of the year, therefore, there

would be no lack of food, in this country, for the skilful hunter. In

the course of the evening I found that a piece of the wood-coal from

Garry's Island, which I had placed in my pocket, had ignited

spontaneously, and scorched the metal powder-horn by its side.

Our enterprising precursor, Sir Alexander Mackenzie, has been blamed for

asserting that he had reached the sea, without having ascertained that

the water was salt. He, in fact, clearly states that he never did reach

the salt water. The danger to which his canoe was exposed in venturing

two or three miles beyond Whale Island, (which lies to the eastward of

our route,) at a time when the sea was covered with ice to the north, is

a sufficient reason for his turning back; and we can abundantly testify

that those frail vessels are totally unfitted to contend against such

winds and seas as we experienced in advancing beyond the volume of fresh

water poured out by the Mackenzie. It is probable, therefore, that even

had the sea been free from ice at the time of his visit, he could not

have gone far enough to prove its saltness, though the boundless

horizon, the occurrence of a tide, and the sight of porpoises and

whales, naturally induced him to say that he had arrived at the ocean.

The survey of the Mackenzie made on this Expedition, differs very little

in its outline from that of its discoverer, whose general correctness we

had often occasion to admire. We had, indeed, to alter the latitude and

longitude of some of its points, which he most probably laid down from

magnetic bearings only; and it is proper to remark, that in comparing

our magnetic bearings with his, throughout the whole course of the

river, they were found to be about fifteen degrees more easterly; which

may, therefore, be considered as the amount of increase in variation

since 1789. In justice to the memory of Mackenzie, I hope the custom of

calling this the Great River, which is in general use among the traders

and voyagers, will be discontinued, and that the name of its eminent

discoverer may be universally adopted.

[Sidenote: Thursday, 18th.] The excursions to Garry Island having made

us acquainted with the state of the sea to the northward, and having

shown that, the bank at the mouth of the river being passed, there was

no visible impediment to a boat's proceeding eastward, I was desirous of

making further examination in aid of the future operations of the

Expedition, by going over to the western shore, and of reaching, if

possible, the foot of the Rocky Mountains. With these intentions we

embarked at nine A.M., but before we could get half way to the nearest

part of Pitt Island, a gale of wind came on from N.W., followed by

violent squalls, which, from the threatening appearance of the clouds,

and the rapid descent of the thermometer from 68 degrees to 51 degrees,

seemed likely to be of some continuance. The design was, therefore,

abandoned, and the boat's head directed towards the entrance of the

river. It proved, however, no easy task to get into the proper channel;

and to effect this object the officers and crew had to drag the boat

half a mile over a bar, while the waves were beating into it with such

force as to make us apprehensive of its being swamped. As soon as we

were in deep water, all the sail was set that the boat could bear, and

at two P.M. we arrived at the narrow part. Here, likewise, the waves

were high and breaking, and for the purpose of avoiding these and the

strength of the current, we kept as close to the shore as possible,

going through the water at seven miles an hour, and about four over the

current. The wild fowl, warned by the sudden change of the weather, took

advantage of this fair wind, and hastened away in large flights to the

southward. At ten P.M., the boat having twice grounded, from our not

being able to see our way clearly, we halted to sup, and laid down to

sleep before a good fire. Temperature at 45 degrees.

[Sidenote: Friday, 19th.] When daylight permitted us to distinguish the

channels, we embarked again, and scudded under the foresail before the

gale, which this day blew with increased violence. We halted to

breakfast near some winter habitations of the Esquimaux, which we

supposed, from the freshness of the wood-shavings, and the implements of

fishing that were scattered about them, had been abandoned only in the

preceding spring; and as it was probable they would revisit this spot,

we fixed to the pole of a tent a present of a kettle, knife, hatchet,

file, ice-chisel, some beads, and pieces of red and blue cloth. These

huts were constructed of drift wood, in a similar manner to those which

will be described in a subsequent part of the narrative. A second

present was deposited at some other huts, and a third at those below the

rapids. We imagined that some, if not all, of these would be found by

the Esquimaux, and would make them acquainted with our visit. By noon we

had advanced as far as the rapid, which we ascended under sail; and at a

few miles above this point, owing to the fogginess of the atmosphere, we

took a more western channel than that by which we descended. This proved

circuitous, though it ultimately brought us to the former route. It was

quite dark before we could find a secure place for the boat, and a

sheltered spot for the tent. The gale continued without abatement, the

weather was raw and cold, and it was with difficulty we collected some

sticks to kindle a fire. Temperature 40 degrees.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 20th.] On the 20th the wind was moderate. We

resumed our journey at four A.M.; past our sleeping-place of the 12th by

noon, and at sunset encamped at the narrow part of the river where the

numerous channels commence. Large flights of geese and swans were

observed passing to the southward all this day. The musquitoes again

made their appearance, though the temperature was at 45 degrees:

scarcely any of them had been seen on the descent to the sea.

[Sidenote: Sunday, 21st.] Temperature at day light, on the 21st, 37

degrees. We commenced our labour under oars, but a strong gale from the

southward soon rendered this mode of ascending the river ineffectual.

The men were, therefore, divided into two parties, who towed the boat by

line, relieving each other at intervals of an hour and a half. At fifty

minutes past one P.M. we were abreast of the Red River, and there met a

large party of the lower Loucheux Indians, who had assembled to wait our

arrival. They welcomed our return with every demonstration of joy, more

particularly that of Augustus and Baptiste, and at first cheerfully

assisted the men in towing, but, like Indians in general, they soon

became tired of this labour, and rather impeded than forwarded our

progress. So we distributed to each a present; made known as well as

well as we could by signs, that at our next visit we would purchase

whatever fish or meat they might collect, and took our leave of them.

Owing to the detention these men and another party occasioned, we were

caught by a heavy gale from N.W. before we could reach our encampment at

the head of the Narrows, and had to pitch the tent in pelting rain.

Temperature 43 degrees.

[Sidenote: Monday, 22nd.] On the 22nd, we started at four in a thick wet

fog, which gave place to snow and sleet, and sailed the whole day before

a strong N.W. wind, much to the annoyance of several Indians who tried

to keep pace with the boat, by running along the shore: each of them had

a present of tobacco thrown to him. We encamped near the bottom of

Cannon-Shot Reach; the weather was extremely cold, and, during the

night, ice was formed in the kettle. [Sidenote: Tuesday, 23rd.] On the

next day the wind came contrary from S.E., which obliged us to have

recourse to the tow-line. The frequent recurrence of sand-banks, to

avoid which we had either to pull round or cross the river, made this

day's operations very tedious. In turning round one of the points, we

came suddenly upon a party of Indians, who had not seen us on our way

down. Our appearance, therefore, created great alarm; the women and

children were instantly despatched to the woods, and the men came down

to the beach with their guns and arrows prepared, and knives drawn; but

the explanation that Baptiste gave, soon allayed their fears. They were,

indeed, objects of pity; all their property had been destroyed to

testify their grief at the death of some of their relations, and the

bodies of several were still sore from the deep gashes they had

inflicted on themselves in their demonstrations of sorrow. We

distributed such useful articles among them as we had remaining, but the

supply was not at all equal to their necessities. Several of them

attempted to follow us in their canoes by poling, which they dexterously

perform by pushing at the same time with a pole or paddle in each hand;

the boat however, was towed faster than they could ascend the stream,

and they were soon far behind. We arrived at six P.M. at the Trading

River, and there met another party of the Loucheux, among whom was the

woman whose tears had excited our sympathy on the 11th, now in high

glee, and one of the most importunate for beads. The boy was likewise

there to whom the tea had been given as a remedy for his fever,

completely recovered, which was, no doubt, ascribed to the efficacy of

the medicine. Not choosing to encamp near these people, we crossed the

river, and towed four hours longer, when we reached Fort Good Hope. Mr.

Dease, and all his fort, were overjoyed on seeing us again, because the

Indians had begun to surmise, and in fact had brought a report that we

had all been massacred by the Esquimaux; and had we been detained

another week, this statement would have gained entire credence, and, in

all probability, spread throughout the country.

The Indian whose fish we carried on our way down, happened to be at the

fort, and he cheerfully communicated, through the interpreter, a female,

all the information that he or his tribe possessed respecting the mouth

of the river, the sea-coast, and the Esquimaux, all topics highly

interesting to us, but we subsequently found that his knowledge of these

matters was very imperfect. We made known to him our wish that the

Esquimaux should be informed of our arrival as soon as possible, and

signified that a very substantial present would be given to any person

that would carry the intelligence to them in the course of the following

winter. Mr. Dease pressed this point strongly on his consideration. This

gentleman, indeed, was anxious to promote our desires in every respect,

and promised that his utmost exertions should be used to procure a good

supply of provision for our next summer's voyage, though he represented

the hunters in this vicinity as unskilful and inactive, and begged of me

not to rely too much on his collection. We left in his charge five bags

of pemmican, and the superfluous stores, to lighten the boats. We

quitted the fort in the afternoon with a contrary wind, and towed twenty

miles up the stream before we encamped, though the beach was composed of

sharp stones, which rendered walking very unpleasant.

The wind being contrary during the four following days, we could only

ascend the river by using the tracking line. Our crew cheerfully

performed this tedious service, though three of them had been much

reduced by dysentery, brought on by previous fatigue, exposure to wet,

and by their having lived for some time on dried provision. These men,

however, had gradually been gaining strength since the fresh meat was

procured on Ellice Island.

On the 25th we came to the aspen, poplar, and larch, in latitude 67

degrees 10 minutes N., and were not a little surprised to observe the

change in their foliage within the last fortnight. Their leaves had

assumed the autumnal tint, and were now fast falling. The wild fowl were

hastening in large flocks to the south, and every appearance warned us

that the fine season drew near its close.

[Sidenote: 28th.] In the passage through the rampart defile, several

families of the Hare Indians were observed encamped on the heights, for

the purpose of gathering berries which were at this time ripe, and in

the best flavour. At the first sight of the boat the women and children

scampered down wherever descent was practicable, to get at their canoes,

that they might cross over to us, but we travelled so fast that only a

few could overtake the boat. The Indians who reside near this river,

from their want of skill in hunting, principally subsist, from spring to

autumn, on the produce of their fishing nets, and on wild berries. At

the influx of small streams, or wherever there is any eddy, a net is

set. In shallow water it is suspended upon sticks planted in a

semicircle, so as to enclose the mouth of the river, or the sweep of the

eddy; but where the water is deep, and the shore bold or rocky, two

stout poles are firmly secured at a short distance from the water's

edge, the breadth of a net apart, to the ends of which pliable rods are

fastened, of a length sufficient to hang over the water, and to these

the net is attached. In the winter these Indians snare hares, which are

very abundant in this quarter.

[Sidenote: 29th.] On the 29th we arrived at the upper rapids, which were

scarcely discernible at the time of our descent; but from the falling of

the water since that time, there was a dry sand-bank of considerable

extent in the centre, and the waters on each side of it were broken and

covered with foam. Augustus being tired with tracking, had wandered from

us to the extremity of this bank, from whence he could not be extricated

without great hazard, unless by making him return to the bottom of the

rapid. As this, however, would have compelled the poor fellow to pass

the night upon the sand-bank, Mr. Kendall undertook to bring him off,

by running with the current to the point at the commencement of the

rapids, which he effected in a masterly manner, although the boat struck

twice, and was in considerable danger from the violence of the eddies.

We found, at the place of our encampment, a solitary old woman, sitting

by a small fire, who seemed somewhat alarmed at her visitors, until she

was joined, after dark, by her husband and son. As soon as the man

understood from our signs that we were desirous of having some fish for

supper, he instantly embarked to examine his nets; but as they proved to

be empty, the woman generously dragged a pike out of a bundle on which

she was sitting, and presented it to us, though it was evidently

reserved for their own meal. In return we furnished them with a more

substantial supper, and made them some useful presents. The weather was

extremely sultry throughout this day; at two P.M. the thermometer stood

in the shade at 66 degrees, and at 76 degrees when exposed to the sun.

The refraction of the atmosphere, which we had often remarked to be

unusually great since we had entered the Mackenzie, was this day

particularly powerful. The mountains were distorted into the most

extraordinary shapes, and the banks of the river, which we knew to be

only from thirty to sixty feet high, appeared to have such an elevation,

that it would have been impossible for us to recognise the land. The air

became cooler in the evening, and the atmosphere less refractive. Soon

after sunset the objects appeared in their proper form, and we enjoyed

the prospect of the delightful mountain scenery that distinguishes this

rapid.

[Sidenote: Tuesday, 30th.] Favoured by a N.W. gale, we made great

progress on the 30th. The temperature of the air varied in the course of

the day from 62 degrees to 41 degrees. The brulots and sand-flies were

very teazing wherever we landed; but these, unlike the musquitoes,

disappear with the sun.

The upper parts of the Rocky Mountains on the western side of the river

were, at this time, covered with snow, but not those of the eastern

side, which are, probably, less elevated than the former. We had no

opportunity of ascertaining their height, though we conjectured that the

loftiest did not exceed two thousand feet, as it was free from snow in

the early part of August.

[Sidenote: September, 1st.] At sunset this evening we quitted the muddy

waters of the Mackenzie, and entered the clear stream that flows from

the Great Bear Lake; but owing to the shallowness of the water near its

mouth, and the beach being a mere collection of stones, we had to grope

our way long after dark in search of a place for an encampment,

stumbling and falling at every step. At length we espied a light about a

mile further up the river on the opposite shore; we, therefore, crossed

over, at the expense of some heavy blows to the boat, and tracked along

the base of a steep bank, until we reached the fire. There we found a

Canadian and two Indian boys who had been sent from Bear Lake three days

before in a canoe, to procure some white mud from the banks of the

MacKenzie to decorate our house. This man was the bearer of a letter

from Lieutenant Back to me, which detailed the proceedings at the Fort.

[Sidenote: Friday, 2nd.] We embarked at daylight, having the canoe in

company. The weather was cold and raw throughout the day; the

temperature from 34 degrees to 45 degrees; but the party were kept in

constant exercise, either in tracking or walking; the steersman and

bowman only being required in the boat. Except where the river was

bounded by steep cliffs, the path was pretty good. Its general breadth

varied from three hundred to five hundred yards, and its banks were

tolerably well wooded, but the trees were small.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 3rd.] This morning the ground was firmly frozen,

and the thermometer stood at 28 degrees, when we commenced our

operations. Early in the afternoon we arrived at the lower part of the

mountain, and which we had kept in view this day, and the greater part

of the preceding. As we had now to ascend a succession of rapids for

fifteen miles, and two of our crew were lame, I directed the canoe to be

laid up on the shore, and took the Canadian and the boys to assist at

the tow-line. We had not advanced more than two miles before we met with

an accident that was likely to have been attended with serious

consequences: in the act of hauling round a projecting point, and in the

strength of the current, the tow-line broke, and the boat was driven

with great force against a large stone at some distance from the shore,

having deep water on every side. There it lay with the broadside exposed

to the whole pressure of the current, beating violently against the

stone; and from this situation it could not have been extricated, had

not Gustavus Aird, the strongest man of the party, ventured to wade into

the river at the imminent risque of being swept off his feet, until he

could catch the rope that was thrown to him from the boat. As soon as it

was dragged to the shore, we found that part of the keel was gone, and

the remainder much twisted, and all the fastenings of the lowest plank

were loosened. The carpenter set to work to repair this mischief in the

best manner he could with the materials he had, and before night the

boat was again launched. The leaks, however, could not be quite stopped,

and in our further progress one of the men was constantly employed

baling out the water.

[Sidenote: Sunday, 4th.] The next day's operations were tedious and

hazardous as long as the rapids continued. The men had to walk with the

tow-line along a narrow ledge that jutted out from the base of a steep

rocky cliff, which was very slippery from the rain that had fallen in

the night: a false step might have proved fatal; and we rejoiced when,

having passed the rapids, we found earthy banks and a better path. The

services of Augustus and the Indian lads being no longer required, I

despatched them to the Fort, to apprize the party there of our approach.

We had a severe frost this night: at daylight in the morning the

thermometer was down to 20 degrees, and a raw fog contributed to make

the weather very cold and comfortless. The sun shone forth about eleven,

and soon dispersed the fog, and then the temperature gradually rose to

54 degrees.

[Sidenote: Monday, 5th.] At four P.M. we arrived at the foot of the

upper rapid, and in two hours afterwards entered the Great Bear Lake,

and reached the house at seven. Dr. Richardson having returned from his

voyage to the northern part of the lake, the members of the Expedition

were now, for the first time, all assembled. We heartily congratulated

each other on this circumstance, and also on the prospect of being

snugly settled in our winter-quarters before the severe weather. Dr.

Richardson had surveyed the Bear Lake to the influx of Dease's River,

near its N.E. termination, at which point it is nearest to the

Coppermine River. He fixed upon the first rapid in Dease River as the

best point to which the eastern detachment of the Expedition could

direct its steps, on its return from the mouth of the Coppermine River

the following season. The rapid was, by observation, in latitude 66

degrees 53 minutes N., and longitude 118 degrees 35 minutes W., and the

variation of the magnetic needle there, was 47 degrees 29 minutes E.

THE FOLLOWING TABLE CONTAINS THE DISTANCES TRAVELLED BY THE EXPEDITION

DURING THE SUMMER OF 1825.

Principal Places. Statute Miles.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From New York to Penetanguishene, by the route we travelled 760

Lake Huron 250

Lake Superior 406

From Fort William to Cumberland House 1018

Cumberland House to Fort Chipewyan 840

Chipewyan to Fort Resolution, Slave Lake 240

Fort Resolution to the commencement of the Mackenzie 135

Head of the Mackenzie to Fort Simpson 103

Fort Simpson to Bear Lake River 271

Bear Lake River to, and the return from, Garry Island 1206

Length of the Bear Lake River to the Fort 91

Dr. Richardson's excursion to the north-east termination of }

Bear Lake } 483

----

Distance travelled 5803

----

Number of Miles surveyed 2593

FOOTNOTES:

[1] An attentive perusal of Sir Alexander Mackenzie's Narrative leads me

to the conclusion, that it was this northern branch which that traveller

pursued in his voyage to Whale Island.