the miles I Came to a great Precipice or vast descent of a hill as full
of stones as if paved and Exceedingly steep; I take it to be much
steeper than Blackstone Edge tho’ not soe long. Y^e End of this steep
was a Little village all stony alsoe. These parts have some resemblance
to Darbyshire only here are more woody places and jnclosures. Then I
Came to Blackstone Edge noted all over England for a dismal high
precipice and steep in the ascent and descent on Either End; its a very
moorish ground all about and Even just at the top, tho’ so high, that
you travel on a Causey w^{ch} is very troublesome as its a moist ground
soe as is usual on these high hills; they stagnate the aire and hold
mist and raines almost perpetually. As I ascended, y^e Morning was
pretty faire, but a sort of mist met me and small raine just as I
attained y^e top, w^{ch} made me feare a wet day and y^t the aire would
have been so thick to have quite Lost me y^e sight of y^e Country, but
when I attained y^e top where is a great heap raised up w^{ch} parts
Yorkshire—and there I entred Lancashire—the mist began to Lessen, and as
I descended on this side y^e ffog more and more went off and a Little
raine fell tho’ at a Little distance in our view, the sun shone on y^e
vale w^{ch} Indeed is of a Large Extent here, and y^e advantage of soe
high a hill w^{ch} is at Least 2 mile up discovers the grounds beneath
as a fruitfull valley full of jnclosures and Cut hedges and trees. That
w^{ch} adds to the formidableness of Blackstone Edge is that on y^e one
hand you have a vast precipice almost the whole way both as one ascends
and descends, and in some places y^e precipice is on Either hand. This
hill took me up Much tyme to gaine the top and alsoe to descend it and
put me in mind of the Description of y^e Alpes in Italy, where the
Clouds drive all about and as it were below them, w^{ch} descends Lower
into Mists, then into raines and soe tho’ on the top it hold snow and
haile falling on the passengers, w^{ch} at Length the Lower they go
Comes into raine and so into sun-shine—at the foote of those valleys,
fruitfull, y^e sunshine and singing of birds. This was y^e accō My
father gave of those Alps when he passed them and I Could not but think
this Carryed some resemblance tho’ in Little, yet a proportion to that.
From y^e foot of this Blackstone I went to Rochdale 4 mile, a pretty
neate town built all of stone; here I went to an acquaintances house M^r
Taylor and was Civilly Entertained. Here is a good Large Meeteing place
well filled; these parts Religion does better flourish than in places
where they have better advantages. Here I observ’d the Grounds were all
Enclosed with Quicksetts Cut smoothe and as Even on fine Green Bancks,
and as well kept as for a Garden, and so most of my way to Manchester I
Rode between such hedges, its a thing remarked by most their great
Curiosity in this kind.
Manchester Lookes exceedingly well at the Entrance,—very substantiall
buildings, the houses are not very Lofty but mostly of Brick and stone,
the old houses are timber work; there is a very Large Church all stone
and stands high soe that walking round the Churchyard you see the whole
town. There is good Carving in wood in the Quire of y^e Church and
severall Little Chappells where in are some Little Monuments; there is
one that was y^e founder of y^e Colledge and Library where hangs his
pictures, for just by the Church is the Colledge w^{ch} is a pretty
neate building w^{th} a Large space for y^e boys to play in, and a good
Garden walled in; there are 60 blew Coate boys in it, I saw their
appartments and was in the Cellars and Dranke of their beer w^{ch} was
very good; I alsoe saw y^e Kitchen and saw their bread Cutting for their
supper and their piggins for their beer. There is a Cloyster round a
Court, in it is a Large roome for y^e judges to Eate in, and also for
y^e roomes for heareing and dispatching their buissness, there is a
Large Library—2 Long walls full of books on Each side,—there is alsoe
y^e globes at y^e End and Maps, there is alsoe a Long whispering
trumpet, and there I saw y^e skinn of y^e Rattle Snake 6 ffoote Long
w^{th} many other Curiositys, their anatomy of a man wired together, a
jaw of a shark; there was a very ffine Clock and weather glass. Out of
y^e Library there are Leads on w^{ch} one has the sight of y^e town
w^{ch} is Large, as alsoe y^e other town that Lyes below it Called
Salfor and is Divided from this by the river Ouall over w^{ch} is a
stone bridge w^{th} many arches. Salfor has only a Little Chappell of
Ease and is belonging to y^e Parish of Manchester.
There is another river Called the Shark w^{ch} runs into y^e Uval. The
market place is Large, it takes up two streetes Length when the Market
is kept for their Linnen Cloth, Cottentickings w^{th} is the manufacture
of y^e town. Here is a very fine Schoole for young Gentlewomen as good
as any in London, and musick and danceing and things are very plenty
here—this is a thriveing place. Hence I went a very pleasant roade Much
on y^e downs mostly Campion ground, some few Enclosures, I went by Dunum
the Earle of Warringtons house w^{ch} stands in a very fine parcke, it
stands Low but appeared very well to sight, its old fashioned building
w^{ch} appeares more in y^e Inside, and the furniture old, but good
gardens walled in. I also passed by severall Gentlemens seates, one was
M^r Cholmonlys, another M^r Listers, surrounded w^{th} good Walks and
shady trees in rows, and severall Large pooles of water some Containeing
severall acres. I passed over two or three stone bridges Cross Little
rivers, so to Norwitch w^{ch} is 14 mile. I Entred Cheshire 3 mile
before I Came to y^e town, its not very Large, its full of Salt works
the brine pitts being all here about, and so they make all things
Convenient to follow y^e makeing the salt so y^t y^e town is full of
smoak from y^e salterns on all sides. They have within these few yeares
found in their brine pitts a hard Rocky salt that Lookes Cleer Like
Suger Candy and its taste shews it to be salt, they Call this Rock salt,
it will make very good brine w^{th} fresh water to use quickly. This
they Carry to the water side into Wales and by those Rivers that are
flow’d w^{th} y^e tyde, and soe they boile these pieces of Rock in some
of the salt water when y^e tyde’s in, w^{ch} produces as strong and good
salt as the others. Thence I went to Sandy head 3 mile farther. There
was 12 salterns together at Norwitch—all y^e witches are places they
make salt in—Nantwitch and Droctwitch they make salt, for at Each place
they have the salt hills where the brine pits springs: this is not farre
from y^e place whence they digg the mill stones.
From Sandy Lane head where I baited, to Whit Church is 16 long miles
over a Long heath for 4 or 5 mile, then to Bestonwood and Came by Beston
Castle on a very high hill, y^e walls remaineing round it, w^{ch} I Left
a Little on my Right hand just at y^e foote of y^e hill, and so I
Crossed y^e great Road w^{ch} Comes from Nantwitch to Chester being then
just y^e midd way to Either, being 7 mile to Each. There I think I may
say was y^e only tyme I had reason to suspect I was Engaged w^{th} some
highway men. 2 fellows all on a suddain from y^e wood fell into y^e
Road, they Look’d truss’d up w^{th} great Coates and as it were bundles
about them w^{ch} I believe was pistolls, but they dogg’d me one before
y^e other behind and would often Look back to Each other, and frequently
justle my horse out of y^e way to get between one of my servants horses
and mine, and when they first Came up to us did disown their knowledge
of y^e way and would often stay a little behind and talke together, then
Come up againe, but the providence of God so order’d it as there was men
at work in y^e fields haymakeing, and it being market day at WhitChurch,
as I drew neer to y^t in 3 or 4 mile was Continually met w^{th} some of
y^e market people, so they at Last Called Each other off and soe Left us
and turned back; but as they Rode w^{th} us 3 or 4 miles at Last they
described the places we should Come by, and a high pillar finely painted
in y^e Road about 3 mile off of Whitchurch (w^{ch} accordingly we saw as
we pass’d on) w^{ch} shew’d them noe strangers to y^e Road as they at
first pretended. I passed over a Little brooke a mile before I Came to
WhitChurch w^{ch} Entred me into Shropshire. This is a Large market
town, here are two very fine gardens, one belongs to an apothecary, full
of all fruites and greens; y^e other was at y^e Crown jnn where I staid,
it was exceeding neate w^{th} oring and Lemmon trees, Mirtle, striped
and gilded hollytrees, box and ffilleroy finely Cut, and ffirrs and
merumsuratum w^{ch} makes the fine snuff, and fine flowers all things
almost in a little tract of Garden Ground. From thence its 14 mile to
Shrewsbury and pretty Level way. Ye miles were long and y^e wind blew
very Cold, I went on a Causey 2 or 3 miles to y^e town, so y^t in y^e
winter the way is bad and deep but on the Causey.
Y^e town stands Low, y^e spires of 2 of y^e Churches stand high and
appear Eminent above y^e town, there is y^e remaines of a Castle, y^e
walls and battlements and some towers w^{ch} I walked round, from whence
had y^e whole view of y^e town w^{ch} is walled round w^{th} battlements
and walks round, some of which I went on. Its here the fine river Severn
Encompasses y^e greatest part of y^e town and twines and twists its self
about, its not very broad here but its very deep and is Esteemed y^e
finest river in England to Carry such a depth of water for 80 or more
miles together Ere it runns into y^e sea w^{ch} is at Bristol. This
Comes out of Wales, Ross and Monmouthshire, there it turns about and
Comes to y^e town. On Each side there are 3 bridges over it, in y^e town
one of them y^t I walked over had some few houses built on it, as London
bridge, at one End of it. Its pleasant to walk by y^e river; there is
just by it the Councill house an old building. Here are three free
schooles together, built of free stone, 3 Large roomes to teach the
Children, w^{th} severall masters. Y^e first has 150£ a year y^e second
100 y^e third 50^£ a year and teach Children from reading English till
fit for y^e University, and its free for Children not only of y^e town
but for all over England if they Exceed not y^e numbers. Here is a very
fine Market Cross of stone Carv’d, in another place there is an
Exchequer or hall for y^e towns affaires, there is alsoe a hall for y^e
Welsh manufacture. There is a water house w^{ch} supplys y^e town
through pipes w^{th} water, but its drawn up w^{th} horses and it seemes
not to be a good and Easye way, so they jntend to make it with a water
Engine in the town. There are many good houses but mostly old buildings,
timber; there is some remaines of a great abbey and just by it y^e great
Church, but nothing fine or worth notice save y^e abbey Gardens w^{th}
gravell walks set full of all sorts of greens—orange and Lemmon trees: I
had a paper of their flowers—were very fine,—there was alsoe ffirrs,
myrtles and hollys of all sorts and a green house full of all sorts of
Curiosityes of flowers and greens—there was y^e aloes plant. Out of this
went another Garden much Larger w^{th} severall fine grass walks kept
Exactly Cut and roled for Company to walke in. Every Wednesday most of
y^e town y^e Ladyes and Gentlemen walk there as in S^t James’ parke, and
there are abundance of people of Quality Lives in Shrewsbury, more than
in any town Except Nottingham; its true there are noe fine houses but
there are many Large old houses that are Convenient and stately, and its
a pleasant town to Live in and great plenty w^{ch} makes it Cheap
Living. This is very near bordering on Wales and was reckon’d formerly
one of y^e Welsh County’s as was Herifordshire. Here is a very good
schoole for young Gentlewomen for Learning work and behaviour and
musick.
From Shrewsbury I went through the great ffaire w^{ch} was just kept
that day there, full of all sorts of things and all the roade for 10
mile at Least I met y^e people and Commoditys going to the ffaire. 2
mile thence I passed over the River Cern on a Large stone bridge, this
is deep and joyns the Severn and soe I Rode by the great hill Called the
Reeke noted for the highest piece of ground in England, but it must be
by those that only Live in the heart of y^e Kingdom and about London,
for there are much higher hills in the north and West and alsoe not 40
mile distant from it; Manborn hills seems vastly higher. This hill
stands just by itself a round hill and does raise its head much above
y^e hills neare it, and on the one side does Looke a great steepe down,
but still my thoughts of the ffells in Cumberland and Westmoreland are
soe farr beyond it in height that this would not be mentioned there; it
is seen 20 mile off and soe may many other hills, but when I Rode just
under it I was full Convinc’d its height was not in Compẽtion w^{th}
those in other parts that I have seen.
There are great hills all about w^{ch} I pass’d over full of Coale
pitts. Here I Came into y^e Whatling Streete w^{ch} is one of y^e great
roads of England w^{ch} divided y^e Land into so many Kingdoms under y^e
Saxons. The roads are pretty good but y^e miles are Long, from
Shrewsbury to y^e Reeke is 9 mile, from thence to S^r Thomas Patsells
house 10 mile more; here I went to see his Gardens w^{ch} are talk’d off
as y^e finest and best kept, y^e house is old and Low, if y^e Gentleman
had Lived he Did design a new house, its now his sons who is an Infant.
Before you Come to y^e house for a quarter of a mile you Ride between
fine Cut hedges, and y^e nearer y^e approach the finer still, they are
very high and Cut Smoothe and Even just Like y^e hedges at Astrop
waters, and of Each side beyond are woods, some regular Rows, some in
its native Rudeness, w^{th} ponds beyond in grounds beneath it. Y^e End
of this walke you Enter a Large gate of open Iron grates, w^{th} as many
more jron grates on Each side as the Breadth of y^e gate, opposite to
this is just another that opens into those grounds I first mention’d.
There is a Large pitched Court w^{th} some open jron gates and grates at
Each End, y^t gives the visto quite a Cross through to other Rows of
trees w^{ch} runs up all about y^e severall avenues.
In this Court stands two Dyals between w^{ch} is an open gate and
pallasadoes, the whole breadth of y^e front of this jron work w^{ch}
Leads to the jnner Court, and on y^e other side just in front, is
another Large gate Carv’d Iron w^{th} pillars brick and stone and flower
potts; and on Each side to take the whole Breadth of y^e house to w^{ch}
it faces and soe give the sight of the garden is open pallisadoes, and a
Little beyond are two more such open Pallisadoes that are Corner wayes,
and discovers the Groves whose walks Looks Every way, so y^t to stand in
this outward Court you May see the house, and Court full of statues in
Grass plotts, w^{th} a broad pav’d walke to the house. In y^e middle on
y^e one side are flower gardens and y^e parke, y^e other side other
grounds w^{th} rows of trees and by it very handsome stables and Coach
houses, and then in the ffront this Large opening to this garden where
is a ffountaine all wayes playing very high, the water, the Gravel
walks, and fine flowers and greens of all sorts in potts and on the
borders. This gate I mention’d had brick pillars w^{th} stone heads on
w^{ch} stood a turky Cock on each Cut in stone and painted proper. Y^e
grove I mention’d is the finest I Ever saw, there are six walks thro’ it
and just in the Middle you Look twelve wayes w^{ch} Discovers as Many
severall prospects, Either to y^e house or Entrance or fountaines or
Gardens or ffields. The Grove itself is peculiar being Composed of all
sorts of greens that hold their verdure and beauty all the yeare, and
flourishes most in y^e winter season when all other Garden beautys
fades, of ffirrs, both silver, Scots, Noroway, Cyprus, Yew, Bays &c; the
severall squares being set full of these Like a Maze; they are Compassed
round Each square w^{th} a hedge of Lawrell about a y^d high Cut Exactly
smooth and Even, there are also box trees in the middle. There are two
other Large Gardens w^{th} Gravell walkes, and grass plotts full of
stone statues, the stone is taken out of y^e quarry’s about this
Country, w^{ch} is not a very firme stone and so the Weather Cracks
them.
In one of these Gardens just the side of y^e house into w^{ch} it opens
w^{th} glass doors and just over against it is a Large Avery of birds
w^{th} branches of trees stuck into the Ground; by it is a Little Summer
house neately painted, beyond this is another Garden w^{th} a broad
Gravel walke quite round. In the middle is a Long as well as Large
ffountaine or pond w^{ch} is Called a sheete of water, at y^e four
Corners are seates shelter’d behind and on y^e top and sides w^{th}
boards painted, on w^{ch} you sit secured from the weather, and Looks on
the water w^{ch} has 348 Lead pipes at y^e brims of it w^{ch} takes in
the sides and End and w^{th} the turning a sluce they streame at once
into the fountaine w^{ch} Looks well and makes a pleaseing sound. If
those pipes were but turned in a bow it would Cast the water in an arch
and so would augment the Beauty of y^e prospect. There are 2 Large
Images stands in the Midst y^t Cast out water and 4 sea horses all
Casting out water. In the other Gardens there were Little figures w^{ch}
bedewed the borders w^{th} their showers.
This Large pond I spoke of before is very deep and good ffish Encreasing
in it. There is another great pond in a ground beyond, w^{ch} Lyes to
view thro’ those green pallasadoes and is stored w^{th} much good ffish.
Thence I went to Aubery 2 miles, a Little Market town, thence to
Pauckeridge and passed through some parcks w^{ch} belongs to some
Gentlemens seate. I went by one M^r Peirpoynts, and S^r Walter Rochlys
house, w^{ch} stands on a hill in a thicket of trees, and soe Came
againe to the Whatling-street way and soe over Kankewood to Woolsly—in
all 14 mile ffarther. From Woolsly to Haywood parke 2 mile, and home
againe 2 mile, from Woolsley to Kanktown 6 mile, thence to
Woolverhampton 6 mile. I went more in sight of S^r Walter Rochly w^{ch}
stands very finely on a hill and woods by it—Lookes very stately. These
miles are very Long thro’ Lanes. I passed by a fine house Prestwitch M^r
Philip Ffolies, a pretty seate in a parke, a mile beyond there is
another house of y^e same Gentlemans. Here we had y^e Inconveniency of
meeteing the Sherriffs of Staffordshire Just going to provide for y^e
Reception of y^e Judges and officers of y^e Assizes, whose Coaches and
Retinue Meeteing our Company w^{ch} was encreased w^{th} Cosen Ffiennes’
Coach and horsemen, w^{ch} made us difficult to pass Each other in the
hollow wayes and Lanes.
Thence to the Seven Starres where we baited, thence 2 miles ffarther we
Entred out of Staffordshire into Worcestershire to Broad water, a place
where are severall ffullers and Dyers mills.
Thence on y^e Right hand are fforging mills for jron works w^{ch} belong
to M^r Tho: Ffolie, there is a Rocky hill in w^{ch} is a Roome Cut out
in the Rocks.
On y^e Left hand you goe 7 mile to Ambusly, a very sad heavy way all
sand, you goe just at Kederminster town End w^{ch} is a Large town much
Employ’d about y^e worstead trade, spinning and weaving. We also Rode by
S^r John Packingtons house on the Left hand on the hill just by
Droitwitch where are the 3 salt springs, divided by a ffresh spring that
runs by it; of this salt water they boyle much salt that turns to good
amount. All y^e way from the Seven Starrs where we baited to Ambusly y^e
Road was full of y^e Electers of y^e Parliament men Coming from the
Choice of y^e Knights of the Shire, w^{ch} spake as they were affected,
some for one some for another, and some were Larger in their judgments
than others, telling their reason much according to the good Liquors
operation, and of these people all the publick houses were filled that
it was a hard Matter to get Lodging or Entertainm^t.
We entered Worcester town next day just as y^e Cerimony of the Election
was performing, and soe they Declared it in favour of M^r Welsh and S^r
John Packington. 4 mile more to this town—from broad water in all is 11
mile. Worcester town w^{ch} is washed by the river Severn is a Large
Citty—12 Churches, the streetes most of them broad, the buildings some
of them are very good and Lofty, its Encompass’d w^{th} a wall w^{ch}
has 4 gates that are very strong. The Market place is Large, there is a
Guildhall besides the Market house w^{ch} stands on pillars of stone.
The Cathedrall stands in a Large yard, pitch’d, its a Lofty Magnificent
building, the Quire has good Wood Carv’d and a pretty organ, there is
one tombstone stands in the Middle of y^e quire by the railes on which
Lyes the Effigies of King John, the Left side of alter is prince Arthurs
tomb of plaine Marble in a ffine Chappell w^{ch} is made all of stone
ffinely Carv’d, both the Inside and the outside is very Curiously Carv’d
in all sorts of works and Arms, beasts and flowers, under it Lyes the
statues of severall Bishops, beyond this are two tombstones w^{th} y^e
ffigure of y^e body in their proper dress, of 2 Saxon Bishops on y^e
pavement.
The painting of y^e Windows are good and they are pretty Large and Lofty
tho’ Nothing Comparable to the Cathedrall at york. The tower is high and
about the Middle of it you may walke round y^e Inside and Look down into
the body of y^e Church just as it is in york. Just against y^e pulpit in
y^e body of the Church is a Little organ to set the Psalme. Y^e ffont is
all of white marble and a Carv’d Cover of wood.
From Worcester we pass’d a Large stone bridge over the Severn on w^{ch}
were many Barges that were tow’d up by strength of men 6 or 8 at a tyme.