Willows and so makes it an jsland, part of w^{ch} turns Mills. Thence I
went 4 mile where I Cross y^e River Thames on a stone Bridge, this runs
to Whitborne and is a very Rapid Streame Especially after raines, w^{ch}
Just before we begun our Journey had fallen and made the roads, w^{ch}
are all Lanes full of stones and up hills and down, so steep that w^{th}
y^e raines y^e waters stood or Else ran down y^e hills, w^{ch} made it
Exceeding bad for travelling. When we had gone 7 mile, at a Little
Parish, you Enter out of Worcester into Herriffordshire and soe 7 mile
ffarther to Stretton Grandsorm and new house, my Cos’n Fiennes’s. This
is the worst way I ever went in Worcester or Herriffordshire, its
allwayes a deep sand and soe in the winter and w^{th} muck is bad way,
but this being in August it was strange and being so stony made it more
Difficult to travell. From thence I went to Stoake 4 miles, where I saw
M^r Folies new house w^{ch} was building and will be very ffine when
Compleated. There is to be 3 flat ffronts to y^e Gardens sides; the
Right Wing of y^e house is the severall appartments for the ffamily, 2
drawing roomes and bed Chambers and Closets opening both on a terrass of
free stone pavements, Each End and the middle there is stone stepps goes
down on Each side, w^{th} half paces to the garden w^{ch} is by more
stepps descending one below another. The other wing is to y^e other
Garden and are to be Roomes of State w^{ch} Lookes towards Herrifford
town. this is to be Coupled together w^{th} a Large Hall w^{ch} Composes
the ffront and is of stone work, the rest is brick only Coyn’d w^{th}
stone and y^e windows stone, and is in forme of a halfe moone Each side
w^{th} arches to the several offices and stables. To this ffront w^{ch}
is to be the Entrance Large opening Iron spike gates w^{ch} Lookes into
their Grounds and Meddowes below it, of a Great Length w^{th} Rows of
trees to y^e river. The Roofe is Cover’d w^{th} slatt w^{ch} shines and
very much represents Lead, its adorn’d round y^e Edges w^{th} stone
ffigures and flower potts. There is a noble parck and woods behind—it
will be very ffine when ffinished, now I saw it only in the outside
shell and platt form. thence I returned to Newhouse 4 mile. Thence I
went to Canaan Ffroom a mile and one mile back w^{ch} was 2 mile more,
then to Stretton four tymes and back w^{ch} was 8 mile, then from
Newhouse to Aldbery 5 miles, thence to Marlow 3 mile and there Entred
Gloucestershire. They are pretty long miles and in the winter deep way,
though now it was pretty good travelling its 8 mile beyond to
Glocestertown tho’ in most places near London this would be reckon’d 20
miles; you may see the town 4 miles off. Glocester town Lyes all along
on the bancks of y^e Severn and soe Look’d Like a very huge place, being
stretch’d out in Length, its a Low Moist place therefore one must travel
on Causeys which are here in good repaire. I pass’d over a Bridge where
two armes of the river meetes where y^e tyde is very high and rowles in
the sand in many places and Causes those Whirles or Hurricanes that will
Come on storms w^{th} great jmpetuosity.
Thence I proceeded over another Bridge into y^e town whose streetes are
very well pitch’d, Large and Cleane. There is a faire Market place and
Hall for y^e assizes w^{ch} happened just as we Came there, soe had y^e
worst Entertainem^t and noe accomodation but in a private house. Things
ought not to be Deare here, but Strangers are allwayes imposed on and at
such a publick tyme alsoe they make their advantages. Here is a very
Large good Key on the river, they are supply’d w^{th} Coales by y^e
shipps and Barges w^{ch} makes it plentifull; they Carry it on sledges
thro’ y^e town—its the great Warwickshire Coale I saw unloading. Here
they follow knitting stockings, gloves wauscoates and peticoates and
sleeves all of Cotten, and others spinn the Cottens. The Cathedrall or
minster is Large, Lofty and very neate, the Quire pretty. At y^e
Entrance there is a seate over head for y^e Bishop to sit in to hear the
sermon preached in y^e body of y^e Church, and therefore the organ is in
the Quire on one side w^{ch} used to be at y^e Entrance. There was a
tomb stone in y^e middle w^{th} a statue of Duke Roberts, second son to
William the Conquerours son, w^{th} his Legs across as is the manner of
all those that went to the holy warre; this is painted and resembles
marble tho’ it is but wood and soe Light as by one ffinger you may move
it up, there is an jron Grate over it. At y^e alter the painting is soe
ffine that y^e tapistry and pillars and ffigure of Moses and Aaron soe
much to the Life you would at Least think it Carv’d. There are 12
Chappells all stone finely Carv’d on y^e walls and rooffs, the windows
are pretty Large and high w^{th} very good painting, there is a Large
window just over y^e Alter but between it and y^e alter is a hollow
walled in on each side w^{ch} is a Whispering place; speake never so Low
just in the Wall at one End the person at y^e other End shall heare it
plaine tho’ those w^{ch} stand by you shall not heare you speake—its y^e
Wall Carrys y^e voyce. This seems not quite soe wonderfull as I have
heard, for y^e Large roome in Mountague house soe remarkable for fine
painting I have been in it, and when y^e Doores are shutt its so well
suited in y^e Walls you Cannot tell where to find the Doore if a
stranger, and its a Large roome Every way. I saw a Lady stand at one
Corner and turn herself to the wall and whisper’d, y^e voice Came very
Cleer and plaine to y^e Company that stood at y^e Crosse Corner y^e
roome soe y^t it Could not be Carry’d by y^e side wall, it must be the
arch overhead w^{ch} was a great height.—But to return to y^e Church,
the tower was 203 stepps, the Large bell I stood upright in but it was
not so bigg as y^e great Tom of Lincoln, this bell at Glocester is
raised by ten and rung by 6 men. On the tower Leads you have a prospect
of y^e whole town, gardens and buildings and grounds beyond and y^e
river Severn in its twistings and windings. Here are y^e fine Lamprys
taken in great quantetys in their season, of w^{ch} they make pyes and
potts and Convey them to London or Else where, such a present being fitt
for a king; this and y^e Charr fish are Equally rare and valuable. Here
are very good Cloysters finely adorn’d with ffretwork, here is the
Colledge and Library but not stored w^{th} many books. I think this was
all the remarkable in Glocester. From thence I went in Company all this
while w^{th} my Cos’n Ffilmer and family. We Came to Nymphsffield after
having ascended a very steep narrow and stony hill, 10 mile to
Nympsfield all bad way, but the 20 mile afterwards made up for its
badness, for these were Exceeding good wayes. 2 mile to Cold harbour
thence 15 Landsdon—Long, but bowling green way. Here I passed by
Babington, the Duke of Beaufforts house stands in a Parke on an advanc’d
Ground w^{th} rows of trees on all sides w^{ch} runns a good Length, and
you may stand on y^e Leads and Look 12 wayes down to y^e parishes and
Grounds beyond all thro Glides or visto of trees. The Gardens are very
fine and water works. On Landsdon hill Summersetshire begins w^{ch} is a
very pleasant hill for to Ride on for aire and prospect; I went 3 mile
over it w^{ch} Leads to y^e Bath down a vast steep descent of a stony
narrow way as is all y^e wayes down into y^e town. The Bath is a pretty
place full of good houses all for y^e accomodation of the Company that
resort thither to Drink or Bathe in the summer. The streetes are faire
and well pitch’d, they Carry most things on sledges, and y^e Company all
y^e morning y^e Chaires of Bayes to Carry them to the Bath—soe they have
the Chaire or Sedan to Carry them in visits. There is a very fine hall
w^{ch} is set on stone pillars w^{ch} they use for y^e balls and
dancing. This is the only new thing since I was at y^e Bath before,
Except the fine adornements on y^e Cross in the Cross bath, fine Carving
of stone w^{th} the English arms and Saints and Cupids, according to the
phaneze and Religion of King James the Seconds Queen Mary of Modina, as
part of her thanks and acknowledgments to y^e saints or Virgin Mary for
the Welsh Prince she Imposed on us. From the Bath I went westward to
Bristol over Landsdown 10 mile, and passed thro’ Kingswood and was met
w^{th} a great many horses passing and returning Loaden w^{th} Coales
Dug just thereabout; they give 12 pence a horse Load w^{ch} Carrys two
Bushells, it makes very good ffires, this is y^e Cakeing Coale. Bristol
Lyes Low in a bottom the Greatest part of the town, tho’ one End of it
you have a pretty rise of ground.
There are 19 Parish Churches beside the Cathedrall, w^{ch} has nothing
fine or Curious in it. The Buildings of y^e town are pretty high, most
of timber work, the streetes are narrow and something Darkish because
the roomes on y^e upper storys are more jutting out, soe Contracts y^e
streete and the Light. The Suburbs are better buildings and more
spacious streetes. There are at one place as you Enter the town 2
almshouses, 6 men and 6 women a piece at Each. There is alsoe at another
part of y^e town a Noble almshouse more Like a Gentlemans house, y^t is
all of stone work, a handsome Court w^{th} gates and Pallisadoes before
four grass plotts divided by paved walks and a walk round y^e same. The
one side is for y^e women the other for y^e men, the middle building is
2 Kitchins for Either and a middle roome in Common for washing and
brewing, over all is a Chappell. They have Gardens behind it w^{th} all
things Convenient. They have their Coales and 3 shillings p^r weeke
allowed to Each to maintain them, this is for decayed tradesmen and
wives that have Lived well; its set up and allowed to by M^r Coleson a
merch^t in London. This town is a very great tradeing Citty as most In
England, and is Esteemed the Largest next London. The river Aven y^t is
flowed up by the sea into y^e Severn and soe up the Aven to the town,
Beares shipps and Barges up to the Key, where I saw y^e harbour was full
of shipps carrying Coales and all sorts of Commodityes to other parts.
The bridge is built over w^{th} houses just as London bridge is, but its
not so bigg or Long—there are 4 arches here. They have Little boates
w^{ch} are Call’d Wherryes such as we use on the Thames, soe they use
them here to Convey persons from place to place, and in many places
there are signes to many houses that are not Publick houses just as it
is in London, the streetes are well pitch’d, and preserved by their
useing sleds to Carry all things about. There is a very faire market
place and an Exchange set on stone Pillars. In another place there is a
very high and magnificent Cross built all of y^e stone or sort of Marble
of y^e Country, its in the manner of Coventry Cross a Piramedy fform
running up of a great height, w^{th} severall divisions in nitches where
is King Johns Effigy and severall other, adorned w^{th} armes and
figures of Beasts and birds and flowers. Great part of it Gilt and
painted and soe terminates in a spire on y^e top, the Lower part is
white Like Marble. Just by the water side is a Long rope yard w^{ch} is
Encompass’d w^{th} trees on Either side w^{ch} are Lofty and shady,
therefore its made Choice of for y^e Company of y^e town to take y^e
Diversion of walking in the Evening. This Compasses round a Large space
of ground w^{ch} is Called y^e marsh—a green ground. There was noe
remaines of the Castle. There are 12 gates to y^e Citty, there is a very
Large Conduit by y^e Key finely Carv’d, all stone, this Conveys the
water about y^e town but all y^e water has a Brackish taste. There is
one Church w^{ch} is an Entire worke all of stone, noe timbers but ye
Rafters and beames belonging to y^e Roofe and y^e seates they sit in.
Y^e Leads are very high and Large and very neate kept, the tower 15
stepps upon w^{ch} the whole Citty is discover’d, w^{ch} by reason of
the good gardens and grounds within its walls is a very Large tract of
ground in y^e whole. There you see the Colledge green in w^{ch} stands
the Cathedrall and y^e Doctors houses, w^{ch} are not very fine, built
of stone. There are some few monuments in this Church w^{th} good
Carvings of stone round y^e tombs and some Effigies, there are 8 bells
in this Church, there is 2 men goes to y^e ringing y^e biggest bell.
From thence I went 2 miles to y^e hott spring of water w^{ch} Lookes
Exceeding Cleer and is as warm as new milk and much of that sweetness.
This is just by S^t Vincents Rocks y^t are Great Clifts w^{ch} seeme as
bounds to y^e river Aven, this Channell was hewn out of those Rocks.
They Digg y^e Bristol Diamonds w^{ch} Look very Bright and sparkling and
in their native Rudeness have a great Lustre and are pointed and Like
y^e Diamond Cutting; I had a piece just as it Came out of y^e Rock
w^{th} y^e Rock on y^e back side and it appeared to me as a Cluster of
Diamonds polish’d and jrregularly Cut. Some of these are hard and will
Endure the Cutting and pollishing by art and soe they make rings and
Earings of them, the harder the stone is more valuable, w^{ch}
differences y^e true Diamond that will bear the fire or y^e greatest
force, and Cannot be divided nor Cut but by some of itself, diamond dust
being y^e only way they Can Cut diamonds that itself is Capable of
Impressing Carracters on Glass. Here I fferry’d over the Avon that Comes
up to y^e town w^{th} a Great tyde in two parts; about 6 mile off it
joyns y^e Severn w^{ch} now begins to swell into a vast river of 7 mile
over before it Enters the sea. Then I went to Aston a mile from y^e
water side thro’ a fine park, an old Large house, and thence I passed
over Large downs and saw 2 other good houses built of stone, w^{th}
towers on y^e top, and severall Rows of trees Leading to them which made
them appear very fine. Soe to Oakey Hole w^{ch} from y^e water side
where I ferry’d is Esteemed but 15 long mile, its y^e same Distance from
Bristole but I would not goe back to y^e town, but twere better I had,
for I made it at Least 17 mile that way. Oakey Hole is a Large Cavity
under ground Like Poole Hole in Darbyshire, only this seemes to be a
great hill above it. Its full of great Rocks and stones Lying in it just
as if they were hewen out of a quarry and Laid down all in y^e ground,
y^e wall and Roofe is all a Rocky stone, there is a Lofty space they
Call the hall and another y^e parlour, and another the Kitchen, the
Entrance of Each one out of another is w^{th} greate stooping under
Rocks y^t hang down almost to touch y^e ground, beyond this is a Cistern
allwayes full of water, it Looks Cleer to the bottom w^{ch} is all full
of stones as is the sides, just Like Candy or Like the Branches they put
in the boyling of Copperace for y^e Copperice to Crust about it, in the
same manner so y^t y^e water Congeales here into stone and does as it
were bud or grow out one stone out of another. Where Ever this water
drops it does not weare y^e Rock in hollow as some other such
subterranian Caves does but it hardens and does Encrease y^e stone and
that in a Roundness as if it Candy’d as it fell, w^{ch} I am of opinion
it does; so it makes y^e Rocks grow and meete Each other in some places.
They ffancy many Resemblances in the Rocks, as in one place an organ and
in another 2 little Babys and in another part a head w^{ch} they Call
the porters head and another a shape like a dog. They phancy one of y^e
Rocks resembles a woman w^{th} a great belly w^{ch} the Country people
Call the witch w^{ch} made this Cavity under ground for her
Enchantments. The rocks are Glistering and shine Like diamonds and some
you Climbe over where one meetes w^{th} y^e Congealed Drops of water
just Like jceicles hanging down. Some of the stone is white Like
alabaster and Glisters Like mettle. You walke for y^e most part in y^e
Large spaces Called y^e Roomes on a sandy floore, the Roofe so Lofty one
Can scarce discern the top and Carry’s a Great Eccho, soe that takeing
up a great stone as much as a man Can heave up to his head and letting
it fall gives a report Like a Cannon w^{ch} they frequently trye and
Call y^e Shooteing y^e Cannons. At y^e farther End you Come to a water
Call’d y^e well, its of a greate depth and Compass tho’ by the Light of
y^e Candles you may discern the Rock Encompassing it as a wall round.
These hollows are generally very Cold and damp by reason of y^e waters
distilling Continually w^{ch} is very Cold, as jce almost when I put my
hand into y^e Cistern. These Roads are full of hills, and those some of
them high Ridge of hills w^{ch} does discover a vast prospect all wayes,
behind me I saw a Great valley full of jnclosures and Lessar hills by
which you ascend these heights, w^{ch} are all very fruitfull and woody.
Alsoe I Could see the Severn when Encreased to its breadth of 7 mile
over, and there it Disembogues into ye sea; then it gave me a prospect
forward of as Large a vale replenish’d w^{th} fruitefull hills and trees
and good Ground, thence I Could discern Glassenbury tower; this was
Maiden Hill just beyond ye Little town of same name and soe by degrees
descending from a higher to a Lower hill w^{ch} had its ascents as well
as its descents w^{ch} makes y^e miles seem and are Indeed Long tracts
of ground.
From Ocley Hole I went to Wells w^{ch} was on an Even ground one mile
farther, this Wells is what must be Reckoned halfe a Citty this and y^e
Bath makeing up but one Bishops See. Here are two Churches w^{th} y^e
Cathedrall. Y^e Cathedrall has y^e greatest Curiosity for Carv’d work in
stone, the West front is full of all sorts of ffigures, y^e 12 apostles,
y^e K and Q w^{th} angells and figures of all forms, as thick one to
another as Can be, and soe almost all round y^e Church.
The assizes was in the town w^{ch} filled it Like a faire, and Little
stands for selling things was in all the streetes. There I saw y^e town
hall. The streetes are well pitch’d, and a Large market place and
shambles. The Bishops pallace is in a park moated round, nothing worth
notice in it. S^t Andrews well w^{ch} gives name to the town Bubbles up
so quick a spring and becomes the head of two Little rivers w^{ch}
Encreases a Little way off into good rivers. Thence I went to Glasenbury
4 miles, a pretty Levell way till just you Come to the town, then I
ascended a stony hill and went just by the tower w^{ch} is on a green
Round riseing ground. There is only a Little tower remaines Like a
Beacon, it had Bells formerly in it and some superstition observ’d
there, but now its broken down on one side. From this I descended a very
steep stony way into the town; Glasenbury tho’ in ancient tymes was a
Renowned place where was founded the first monastery, its now a Ragged
poor place and the abbey has only the Kitchen remaining in it w^{ch} is
a distinct Building, round like a pigeon house all stone. The walls of
y^e abbey here and there appeares and some Little places and y^e Cellar
or vault w^{ch} if they Cast a stone into the place it gives a great
Echo, and y^e Country people says its y^e Devil set there on a tun of
money w^{ch} makes y^e noise Least they should take it away from him.
There is the holly thorn growing on a Chimney, this the superstitious
Covet much and have gott some of it for their gardens and soe have
almost quite spoiled it, w^{ch} did grow quite round a Chimney tunnell
in the stone. Here is a very pretty Church a good tower well Carv’d all
stone 160 stepps up. Walking in the tower I Could have a prospect of the
whole place w^{ch} appeared very Ragged and decayed. The Church is
neate, there is the Effigee of the abbot on a tombstone Carved all about
w^{th} Eschuteons of a Camell, and round it an jnscription or motto in
old Latin and an old Caracter. It was a phancy of his Stewards who was a
very faithfull Dilligent servant, and as he made use of those Creatures
in his masters service y^t were strong and Industrious so y^e motto
described his services under that resemblance. The Effigee was very
Curious and w^{th} rings on the fingers, but in Monmouths tyme the
soldiers defaced it much.
From thence to Taunton 16 miles through many small places and scattering
houses, through Lanes full of stones and by the Great raines just before
full of wet and Dirt. I passed over a Large Common or bottom of Deep
black Land which is bad for the Rider but good for the abider as the
proverb is; this was 2 or 3 mile long and pass’d and repass’d a river as
it twin’d about at Least ten tymes over stone bridges. This river Comes
from Bridge water 7 mile, the tyde Comes up beyond Bridge water, Even
within 3 mile of Taunton its flowed by the tyde w^{ch} brings up the
Barges w^{th} Coale to this place, after having pass’d a Large Common
w^{ch} on Either hand Leads a great waye, good rich Land w^{th} ditches
and willow trees all for feeding Cattle, and here at this Little place
where the boates unlade the Coale y^e packhorses Comes and takes it in
sacks and so Carryes it to y^e places all about. This is y^e sea Coale
brought from Bristole, the horses Carry 2 Bushell at a tyme w^{ch} at
the place Cost 18^d and when its brought to Taunton Cost 2 shillings.
The roads were full of these Carryers going and returning.
Taunton is a Large town haveing houses of all sorts of buildings both
brick and stone, but mostly timber and plaister, its a very neate place
and Looks substantial as a place of good trade. You meete all sorts of
Country women wrapp’d up in the mantles Called West Country rockets, a
Large mantle doubled together of a sort of serge, some are Linsywolsey
and a deep fringe or ffag at the Lower End, these hang down some to
their feete some only just below y^e wast, in the summer they are all in
white garments of this sort, in the winter they are in Red ones. I Call
them garments because they never go out w^{th} out them and this is the
universal ffashion in Sommerset and Devonshire and Cornwall. Here is a
good Market Cross well Carv’d and a Large Market house on Pillars for
the Corn. I was in the Largest Church, it was mending, it was pretty
Large, the alter stood table wayes in the middle of the Chancell, there
was one good stone Statue stood in the wall, the Effigee was very tall
in a Ruff and Long Black dress Like some Religious w^{th} his Gloves and
book in his hand. There were severall Little monuments with Inscriptions
Round them, they have Encompass’d the Church yard with a new Brick wall
and handsom Iron gates, there is a Large space Called the Castle yard
and some remaines of the Castle walls and Buildings w^{ch} is fitted up
for a good dwelling house. From thence I went to Wellington, they Call
it but 5 mile but its a Long 7 tho’ the way was pretty good; this is a
Little Market town. Thence to Culimton 13 mile more, but Indeed these
were very long Miles, y^e hostler at Tanton did say tho’ they were
reckon’d but 16 miles it really was a good 20 miles and I am much of
that mind. I mostly pass’d through Lanes, I entred Into Devonshire 5
mile off from Wellington, just on a high ridge of hills w^{ch} discovers
a vast prospect on Each side full of Inclosures and Lesser hills w^{ch}
is the Description of most part of the West. You Could see Large tracts
of grounds full of Enclosures good Grass and Corn beset with quicksetts
and hedge rows, and these Lesser hills w^{ch} are scarce perceivable on
y^e Ridge of the uppermost, yet the Least of them have a steep ascent
and descent to pass them. Culimton is a good Little market town, and
market Cross and another set on stone pillars, such a one was at
Wellington but on Brick work pillars. Here was a Large meeteing of neer
4 or 500 people, they have a very good minister but a young man, I was
glad to see soe many tho’ they were but of the meaner sort, for Indeed
its the poor Receive the Gospell and there are in most of the market
towns in the West very good meeteings. This Little place was one
Continued Long streete but few houses y^t struck out of the streete.
From thence 10 mile to Exetter, up hills and down as before, till one
attaines those uppermost Ridges of all w^{ch} discovers the whole
valley, then you sometymes goe a mile or two on a Down till the Brow of
the hill begins in a Descent on the other side. This Citty appears to
view 2 mile distant from one of those heights, and also the River Ex
w^{ch} runs to Topshum where y^e shipps Comes up to the Barre; this is 7
mile by water from w^{ch} they are attempting to make navigeable to the
town, which will be of Mighty advantage to have shipps Come up Close to
the town to take in their Serges w^{ch} now they are forced to send to
Topshum on horses by Land, w^{ch} is about 4 mile by Land. They had just
agreed w^{th} a man that was to accomplish this work for w^{ch} they
were to give 5 or 6000^£, who had made a beginning on it.