way for the most part, but very steep up hills and down; on one of these
I Rode a pretty while w^{th} a great precipice on the Right hand down to
the river, it Looked hazardous, but the way was very broad. The River
Looked very reffreshing and y^e Cattle Coming to its sides and into it
where shallow to Coole themselves in the heate, for hitherto as I met
w^{th} noe Raines, notwithstanding the great raines y^t fell the 2 dayes
before I Left Woolsley, and y^e Little showers I had when I went to
Hollywell I was not annoy’d w^{th} wet nor Extream heat, the Clouds
being a shade to me by day and Gods good providence and protection all
wayes. This after noon was the hottest day I met with but it was
seasonable being in July. As I drew nearer and nearer to NewCastle I met
with and saw abundance of Little Carriages w^{th} a yoke of oxen and a
pair of horses together, w^{ch} is to Convey the Coales from y^e pitts
to y^e Barges on the river. There is Little sort of Dung-potts. I
suppose they hold not above 2 or three Chaudron. This is the sea Coale
which is pretty much small Coale tho’ some is round Coales, yet none
like the Cleft coales and this is what y^e smiths use and it Cakes in
y^e ffire and makes a great heate, but it burns not up Light unless you
put most round Coales w^{ch} will burn Light, but then its soon gone and
that part of y^e Coale never Cakes, there fore y^e small sort is as good
as any—if its black and shineing, that shows its goodness. This Country
all about is full of this Coale, y^e sulpher of it taints y^e aire and
it smells strongly to strangers,—upon a high hill 2 mile from NewCastle
I could see all about the Country w^{ch} was full of Coale pitts.
New-Castle Lies in a bottom very Low, it appears from this hill a greate
fflatt. I saw all by the river Tyne w^{ch} runns along to Tinmouth 5 or
6 miles off, w^{ch} Could see very plaine and y^e Scheld w^{ch} is the
key or ffort at the mouth of y^e river w^{ch} disembogues itself into
y^e sea; all this was in view on this high hill w^{ch} I descended—5
mile more, in all nine from that place.
NewCastle is a town and County of itself standing part in Northumberland
part in y^e Bishoprick of Durham, the river Tyne being y^e division. Its
a noble town tho’ in a bottom, it most resembles London of any place in
England, its buildings Lofty and Large, of brick mostly or stone. The
streetes are very broad and handsome and very well pitch’d, and many of
them w^{th} very ffine Cunduits of water in Each allwayes running into a
Large stone Cistern for Every bodyes use. There is one great streete
where in y^e Market Crosse, there was one great Cunduit with two spouts
w^{ch} falls into a Large ffountaine paved w^{th} stone which held at
Least 2 or 3 hodsheads for the jnhabitants. There are 4 gates w^{ch} are
all Double gates with a sort of Bridge between Each. The west gate
w^{ch} I entred I came by a Large building of bricke within bricke
walls, which is the hall for the assizes and sessions for the shire of
Northumberland. This is NewCastle on y^e Tyne and is a town and County.
There is a noble Building in the middle of the town all of stone for an
Exchange on stone pillars severall rows. On the top is a building of a
very Large hall for the judges to keep the assizes for the town; there
is another roome for y^e Major and Councill and another for the jury out
of the Large roome w^{ch} is the hall, and opens into a Balcony w^{ch}
Looks out on y^e River and y^e Key. Its a Lofty good building of stone,
very uniforme on all sides w^{th} stone pillars in the ffronts both to
the streete and market place and to the waterside. There is a ffine
Clock on the top just as y^e Royal Exchange has. The Key is a very ffine
place and Lookes itself Like an Exchange being very broad and soe full
of merchants walking to and againe, and it runs off a great Length
w^{th} a great many steps down to y^e water for the Conveniency of
Landing or boateing their goods, and is full of Cellars or ware houses.
Ye harbour is full of shipps but none that is above 2 or 300 tun Can
Come up quite to the Key: its a town of greate trade. There is one Large
Church built of stone w^{th} a very high tower finely Carv’d full of
spires and severall devises in the Carving—all stone. The Quire is neate
as is the whole Church and Curious Carving in wood on each side the
quire, and over the ffront is a great Piramidy of wood ffinely Carv’d
full of spires. There was a Castle in this town but now there is noe
remaines of it but some of y^e walls w^{ch} are built up in houses and
soe only appears as a great hill or ascent, w^{ch} in some places is 30
or 40 steps advance to the streetes that are built on y^e higher ground
where the Castle was. There was one place soe Like Snow Hill in London
w^{th} a fine Conduite. Their shops are good and are of Distinct trades,
not selling many things in one shop as is y^e Custom in most Country
towns and Cittys; here is one market for Corne, another for Hay, besides
all other things w^{ch} takes up two or three streetes. Satturday was
their biggest Market day w^{ch} was the Day I was there, and by Reason
of the extreame heate resolved to stay till the sun was Low ere I
proceeded farther, so had the opportunity of seeing most of the Market
w^{ch} is Like a ffaire for all sorts of provision, and good and very
Cheape. I saw one buy a quarter of Lamb ffor 3^d and 2^d a piece: good
Large poultry. Here is Leather, Woollen and Linnen and all sorts of
stands for baubles. They have a very jndifferent sort of Cheese—Little
things, Looks black on the outside. There is a very pleasant
bowling-green, a Little walke out of the town w^{th} a Large gravel
walke round it w^{th} two Rows of trees on Each side Makeing it very
shady: there is a fine entertaineing house y^t makes up the ffourth
side, before w^{ch} is a paved walke and Epyasses of bricke. There is a
pretty Garden, by y^e side a shady walk, its a sort of spring garden
where the Gentlemen and Ladyes walke in the Evening—there is a green
house in the garden, its a pleasant walke to the town by y^e walls.
There is one broad walke by the side of y^e town runns a good Length
made w^{th} Coale ashes and so well trodden, and the raines makes it
firm. There is a walke all round the walls of the town. There is a good
ffree school and 5 Churches. I went to see the Barber Surgeons Hall
w^{ch} was within a pretty garden walled in, full of flowers and greens
In potts and in the Borders; its a good neate building of Brick. There I
saw the roome w^{th} a round table in it railed round w^{th} seates or
Benches for y^e Conveniency in their disecting and anatomiseing a body,
and reading Lectures on all parts. There was two bodyes that had been
anatomised, one the bones were fastned w^{th} wires the other had had
the flesh boyled off and so some of y^e Ligeament remained and dryed
w^{th} it, and so the parts were held together by its own Muscles and
sinews that were dryed w^{th} it. Over this was another roome in w^{ch}
was the skin of a man that was taken off after he was dead, and dressed,
and so was stuff’d—the body and Limbs. It Look’d and felt Like a sort of
parchment. In this roome I Could take a view of the whole town, it
standing on high ground and a pretty Lofty building.
Just by is a very good Hospital for 14 widdows of tradesmen of the town,
2 good roomes a piece, a walke under a pyasse w^{th} pillars of
brickwork, as is the whole building: there is a Large ffountaine or
Cunduite of water for their use and an open Green before their house all
walled in, its in y^e major and aldermans disposition, there is 2 or 300
pound a yeare to it, I thinke its 10 pound a piece. There is a very good
fountaine belongs to it, and there is a fine bridge over the Tyne river
w^{th} 9 arches all built on as London bridge is, which Enters you into
Durham, and on this side of y^e Bridge are so many streets and buildings
just Like Southwarke. Its a Little town but all is in the Liberty of y^e
County town of New-Castle and soe Called, but its all in the Diocess of
Durham. Through part of this you do ascend a greate height and steepness
w^{ch} is full of Rocky stony stepps, and afterwards the hill Continues
when out of y^e town till it has set you as high as on the former hill
on the other side the town—w^{ch} I Entred out of Northumberland—and as
that gave a Large prospect of the town and whole Country aboute on that
side, soe this gives as pleasing a sight of it on this side and the
whole river and shipps in the harbour. Thence I proceeded a most
pleasant gravell Road on the Ridge of y^e hill and had the whole Country
in view, w^{ch} seems much on a flatt to this place, tho’ there be a few
Little steep up hills and descents, but the whole Country Looks Like a
fruitfull woody place and seemes to Equal most Countys in England. 7
mile to Chester streete w^{ch} is a Little Market town, and I Rode neare
Lumly Castle w^{ch} gives title and name to the Lord Lumly: the
buildings Looke very Nobly, its in a 4 square tower running up to the
top w^{th} three Round towers at the top between the windows—Lookes
well—its a front the four wayes, its not finely ffurnish’d.
At this Little Market town I pass’d over the River Weire w^{ch} runns to
Durham, w^{ch} is 7 mile farther over a pleasant Road and Country y^t
resembles Black heath, you see the towns and Countrys Round full of
Woods. One sees the Citty of Durham four mile off from a high hill, not
but the Citty stands on a great rise of Ground and is a mile and halfe
in Length. The river runs almost round the town and returns againe, that
Casts the Citty into a tryangular; its not Navigeable nor possible to be
made so because its so full of Rocks and vast stones, makes it difficult
for any such attempt. Durham Citty stands on a great hill, the middle
part much higher than the rest, the Cathedrall and Castle w^{ch} is y^e
pallace w^{th} y^e Colledge and all the houses of the Doctors of the
Churches is altogether built of stone and all Encompass’d w^{th} a wall
full of battlements above the walke, and this is about the middle of y^e
hill w^{ch} is a Round hill, and a steep descent into the rest of the
town, where is the market place w^{ch} is a spacious place, and a very
ffaire town hall on stone Pillars and a very Large Cunduite. From this
all the streets are in a pretty greate descent to y^e river, which
Lookes very pleasant by meanes of its turning and winding to and agen,
and so there are 3 Large Stone Bridges w^{th} severall arches apiece.
The abbey or y^e Cathedrall is very Large, the quire is good but nothing
Extraordinary, some good painting in the Glass of the windows and wood
Carving. There is over y^e alter a painting of a Large Catherine Wheele
which Encompasses the whole window and fills it up. The Bishops seate
has severall steps up, its Called y^e throne, with a Cloth of Gold
Carpet before it. The seate was King Charles the first, of Crimson
damaske. A good organ and a fine Clock in w^{ch} is the signes, w^{th}
Chimes, and finely Carved w^{th} four pirramidy spires on Each Corner, a
much Larger and higher one in the middle well Carv’d and painted. The
ffont is of marble, the top was Carv’d wood very high, and terminates in
a poynt and resembles the picture of y^e Building of Babel—its not
painted. The Cloysters are good. A Chapple Called S^t Marys now used for
to keep their spiritual Courts, and in the vestry I saw severall fine
Embroyder’d Coapes—3 or 4, I saw one above the rest was so Richly
Embroider’d w^{th} the whole Description of Christs nativity, Life,
Death and ascention; this is put on the Deanes shoulders at the
administration of the Lords supper, here is y^e only place that they use
these things in England, and severall more Cerimonyes and Rites retained
from the tymes of popery. There are many papists in the town, popishly
affected, and daily encrease. There was great striveing in the Choice of
the parliament men, w^{ch} I had the trouble of in most of my journeys,
y^e Randan they made in the publick houses, jndeed I happen’d to get
into a quiet good jnn a good accomodation, two Maiden sisters and
brother kept it—at y^e Naggs head.
The Castle w^{ch} is the Bishops pallace stands on a Round hill w^{ch}
has severall green walks round it, w^{th} high bancks to secure them one
above another, and on the top are the towers. About the Middle of the
hill is a broad Grass walk railed in and enters into a Dineing roome.
There are very stately good roomes, parlours, drawing roomes, and a
noble Hall, but the ffurniture was not very ffine the best being taken
down in the absence of my Lord Crew, who is not a Barron of England but
is a great prince as being Bishop of the whole principallity off Durham,
and has a great Royalty and authority, is as an absolute Prince and has
a great Command as well as revenue; his Spirituall is 5 or 6000^{lb} and
his temporalls since his brothers Death makes it much more. He Comes
sometymes hither but for the most part Lives at another Castle w^{ch} is
a noble seate about 12 mile off, which is very well ffurnish’d and
ffinish’d; he is the Governour as it were of the whole province. His
pallace here makes a good appearance w^{th} the severall walks one below
another with rows of trees, three or four descents and y^e wall at the
bottom. Just by the Castle is a place for the assizes, 2 open barrs
Lookes out into what is the space the College and Doctors houses are,
and there is in the Middle a very ffine Large Cunduite, the water
falling into the Cistern from 4 pipes, w^{ch} gives a pleaseing sound
and prospect, it being arch’d with stone, and stone pillars, and Carv’d,
and alsoe a high top arch ending in a ball; its the ffinest of this kind
I have seen and so I must say of the whole Citty of Durham, its the
noblest—Cleane and pleasant buildings, streetes Large, well pitch’d. The
market Crosse is Large, a fflatt Roofe on severall Rows of Pillars of
Stone and here is a good Cundit alsoe of stone. The walks are very
pleasant by the river side. I went by its banck of one end of the town
to the meeteing house w^{ch} stands just by the River, there was a
Company of hearers at Least 300, w^{ch} on the Consideration of its
being under the Dropings of y^e Cathedrall its very well. They have a
very good minister there, but its New-Castle that has the greate
meeteing place and many Descenters; they have two very Eminent men one
of their Name was D^r Gilpin whose book I have read in, but he not being
at home Could not have the advantage of hearing him.
In the Evening I walk’d out at Durham to another part of the town, by
another turn of the river along by its Banck, and the river here would
meete were it not for a Ridge of a hill runs between, it in w^{ch} are
buildings and ascends up a mile in Length, w^{ch} is one of the
Parishes. In walking by this river we Came to S^r Charles Musgroves
House w^{ch} is now old and ruinous but has been good. The Gardens are
flourishing still w^{th} good walks and much ffruite of w^{ch} I tasted;
its a place that is used Like our Spring Gardens for the Company of the
town to walk in the Evening, and its most pleasant by the river, w^{ch}
by means of severall bays or wires which is of Rock, the waters has
greate falls from thence, w^{ch} adds a murmuring sound acceptable to
the people passing. They have good ffish in the river but its full of
rocks; they talk much of makeing it Navigeable but I ffancy the many
Rocks all along in it will render it a Difficult work. I went a mile to
see the spaw waters and to see a salt spring in the Rock in the middle
of y^e river. In halfe a mile I came to a well w^{ch} had a stone Bason
in it and an arch of stone over it; the taste was Like y^e Sweete Spaw
in Yorkshire and the Tunbridge waters.
About halfe a mile farther I Came to a well w^{ch} is Like the Sulpher
Spaw, taste and Looke agreeing thereto, w^{ch} is from brimstone, but
its not quite soe strong for it was a Longer tyme before the silver was
Changed in it. Here I went a very bad and hazardous passage full of
stones Like stepps, the water trilling Down them, and a very narrow
passage by the Bushes and Bancks, but when I was got in there was noe
returning, so on I went to the river w^{ch} was a Large step to goe down
into, and all the river full of Shelves and Rocks.
The Spring is in the Cleft of the Rocks w^{ch} stands up in the river,
and soe springs up, but when much raines falls it washes down soe fast
upon it that weakens the taste. From this place I came back againe a
mile. Durham has about 7 Churches w^{th} the Cathedrall, its a noble
place and the aire so Cleer and healthy that persons Enjoy much health
and pleasure. From thence to Darlington w^{ch} is 14 pretty Long miles
but good way, but by the way I Lost some of my nightCloths and Little
things in a Bundle that the Guide I hired Carry’d. This is a Little
Market town, the Market day was on Munday w^{ch} was the day I passed
through it: it was a great Market of all things, a great quantety of
Cattle of all sorts but mostly Beeves—it seemes once in a fortnight its
much fuller. Two miles from Darlington I Came to the Ground the Hell
Kettles are they talk much of, its in Grounds just by the road where
Cattle were ffeeding, there are 2 pooles or ponds of Water the one
Larger than y^e other; y^e biggest seemed to me not to be the Deepest
nor is it Esteem’d soe deep; there was some sedge or flaggs growing
round that, but y^e fathermost w^{ch} was not soe bigg Looked a Cross
that had noe flaggs or sedge on its bancks but yet it Look’d to me to
Cast a green hew, Roleing waves of the water just in Coullour as the
sea, and as the wind moved the water it very much resembled the sea, but
the water when taken up in y^e hand Look’d White and y^e taste was not
the Least brackish but fresh. My Conception of the Cause of y^e greenish
Coullour was from the greate depth of water, for the reason they Call
them Hell Kettles is that there is noe sounding a bottom, w^{ch} has
been try’d by plumet and Line severall ffathoms down; the water is Cold
and as any other water when took up, it seemes not to Decrease in a tyme
of Drought nor to advance w^{th} great raines, it draines itself
insensibly into y^e ground.
This Leads me the ffarthest way to Richmond it being but 8 mile the
ready Road from Darlington to Richmond, but this way it was 10 miles and
very tedious miles. Three miles off Darlington I passed over Crafton
Bridge which Crosses y^e river Teese which Divides Durham ffrom
Yorkshire, and soe Entred the North Rideing of Yorkshire in which is
that they Call Richmondshire a shire of 30 miles. The way was good but
Long, I went through Lanes and woods an Enclosed Country; I passed by a
house of S^r Mark Melborn on a hill, a Brick building and severall
towers on the top, good gardens and severall rows of trees up to the
house, it standing on a hill, y^e trees Runns along on y^e Ridge of y^e
same—Looks very finely.
Richmondshire has in it 5 waking takes as they Call them, answerable to
that they Call hundreds in other Countys; Each waking takes has market
towns in them and are under a Baliffe Each, which are nominated by the
Earle of Holderness who is the Sole Lord of the whole—its 30 mile in
Extent. Richmond town one cannot see till just upon it, being
Encompass’d w^{th} great high hills: I descended a very steep hill to it
from whence saw the whole town which itself stands on a hill tho’ not so
high as these by it. Its buildings are all stone, y^e streetes are Like
rocks themselves, there is a very Large space for the Markets w^{ch} are
Divided for the ffish market, fflesh market, and Corn; there is a Large
market Crosse, a square space walled in with severall steps up, and its
flatt on the top and of a good height. There is by it a Large Church and
the ruines of a Castle, the pieces of the walls on a hill. I walked
round by the walls, the River running beneath a great descent to it, its
full of stones and Rocks and soe very Easye to Make or keep up their
wires or falls of water, w^{ch} in some places is naturall y^t y^e water
falls over Rocks w^{th} great force w^{ch} is Convenient for Catching
Salmon by speare when they Leap over those Bayes. All rivers are Low and
Dryer in the Summer soe I saw them at the greatest disadvantage being in
some places almost drye and the Rocks and stones appear bare, but by
those high and Large stone bridges I pass’d w^{ch} Lay aCross the Rivers
shewd the Great Depth and breadth they used to be y^e Winter tymes.
There was two good houses in y^e town, one was M^r Darcys the Earle of
Holderness’ brother, the other was M^r Yorkes, both stood then and were
Chosen Parliament men. They had good gardens walled in, all stone, as in
the whole town, though I must say it Looks Like a sad shatter’d town and
fallen much to Decay and Like a Disregarded place. I passed on towards
Burrowbridge and Came not farre from Hornby Castle the Earle of
Holderness, and also Suddber hall 2 mile off Richmond M^r Darcys house;
this Road was much on Lanes w^{ch} were narrow but Exceeding Long, some
3 or 4 mile before you Came to any open place and then I Came to a
Common w^{ch} was as tedious to me, at Least 5 or 6 mile before I Came
to an End of it, then I pass’d through a few Little villages and so I
Came the 19 mile to Burrowbridge in Yorkshire. Here I was the most
sensible of the Long Yorkshire Miles, this North Rideing of that County
is much Longer Miles than the other parts which I had been in before. At
Burrowbridge I pass’d the River Lid or Ouse on a Large stone Bridge:
this River affords very good ffish, salmon and Codffish and plenty of
Crawffish. Here I met w^{th} the Clutter of y^e Chooseing Parliament
men. Thence I went for Knarsebrough 5 mile more; this dayes journey was
a Long 24 miles, jndeed y^e wayes were very good and drye being y^e
midst of summer. Here I Came to my old Landlady Mason where I Lay the
yeare before to Drink the spaw, and from thence I went to Harragate over
Knarsbrough fforest to Leeds 12 mile, and I went by Harwood Castle—the
ruined walls some remaines. It was much in Lanes and uphills and Down
hills, some Little part was open Common; on the Hill that Leads down to
the town gives a pleaseing prospect of it. Leeds is a Large town,
severall Large streetes, Cleane and well pitch’d and good houses all
built of stone. Some have good Gardens and Steps up to their houses and
walls before them. This is Esteemed the Wealthyest town of its bigness
in the Country its manufacture is y^e woollen Cloth—the Yorkshire Cloth
in w^{ch} they are all Employ’d and are Esteemed very Rich and very
proud. They have provision soe plentiful y^t they may Live w^{th} very
Little Expense and get much variety; here if one Calls for a tankard of
Ale w^{ch} is allwayes a groate its the only dear thing all over
Yorkshire, their ale is very strong, but for paying this Groat for
yo^{ur} ale you may have a slice of meate Either hott or Cold according
to the tyme of day you Call, or Else butter and Cheese Gratis into the
bargaine; this was a Generall Custom in most parts of Yorkshire but now
they have almost Changed it, and tho’ they still retaine the great price
for the ale, yet Make strangers pay for their meate, and at some places
at great rates, notwithstanding how Cheape they have all their
provision. There is still this Custome on a Market day at Leeds, the
sign of ye bush just by the Bridge, any body y^t will goe and Call for
one tanchard of ale and a pinte of wine and pay for these only shall be
set to a table to Eate w^{th} 2 or 3 dishes of good meate and a dish of
sweetmeates after. Had I known this and y^e Day w^{ch} was their Market
I would have Come then but I happened to Come a day after y^e market,
however I did only pay for 3 tankards of ale and w^t I Eate, and my
servants was gratis. This town is full of discenters, there are 2 Large
meeting places, here is also a good schoole for young Gentlewomen; the
streetes are very broad, the Market Large. Thence I went to Eland 12
long mile more pretty much steep, up hills and down the same. I crossed
over a River at Leeds on a Large stone bridge; y^e Country is much on
Enclosures, good ground.
I goe by quarreys of stone and pitts of Coales w^{ch} are both very
good, soe that for fewell and building as well as good grounds for
feeding Cattle and for Corne they are so well provided that together
with their Industry they must needs be very Rich. All the hills about
Eland is full of jnclosures and Coverts of wood y^t Looks very pleasant.
This town gives title to y^e Marquis Hallifax son, as does Hallifax to
y^e Marquis. This Lyes but 5 or 6 mile hence, its a stony town and the
roads to it soe stony and difficult y^t I was Discouraged in going, the
town now being almost ruined and Come to Decay, and y^e Engine that that
town was famous for to behead their Criminalls at one stroake w^{th} a
pully this was destroyed since their Charter or Liberty was Lost or
taken from them, because most barbarously and rigourously acted Even
w^{th} an absolute power w^{ch} they had of all y^e town; on those
Informations I resolved not to goe to that ragged town tho’ there are
many good people and a Large meeteing.