better than they had done the preceding day. They had with them an old
man, who had before testified his probity and discretion; and he
appeared to be of superior rank to the rest. He came on board with
another Indian, when the Captain presented them with some nails, and two
pieces of cloth of English manufacture. _Tojava_ (which was the name of
the old man) informed Mr. Banks, that the natives had been in great
terror of the English; when he was informed, that the Captain and his
people had no ill design against the Indians; but, on the contrary,
wanted to establish a friendly intercourse, and to traffick with them.
Tojava then acquainted the Captain, that they were often visited by
freebooters from the north, who stripped them of all they could lay
their hands on, and often made captives of their children and wives; and
that being ignorant who the English were upon their first arrival, the
natives had taken the alarm upon the ship’s appearing off the coast, but
were now satisfied of their good intent. He added, that to secure
themselves from these plunderers, their houses were built contiguous
near the tops of rocks, where they are more able to defend themselves.
Probably their poverty and misery may be ascribed to the ravages of this
banditti, who often strip them of every necessary of life. Whilst they
were fishing for mullets in the bay, the Indians who were upon the banks
testified their friendship by every possible means, and gave them an
invitation to come on shore.
The assurances of friendship, which they had received from the gentlemen
on board, seemed to have a proper influence upon the natives, who were
now very tractable and submissive, and behaved with much civility to the
people in the long-boat, which was again dispatched into the bay to
fish, but with little success; the Indians however brought great
quantities of fish, dressed and dried; and though they were very
indifferent, they were purchased, that trade might not be discouraged.
In a word, the natives now treated the English with great hospitality; a
large supply of wood and good water was obtained, and the ship, being
very foul, was heeled, and her bottom scrubbed in the bay.
November the 8th the ship was visited by several canoes, in one of which
was Tojava, who perceiving two strange canoes paddling from the opposite
shore, suddenly turned about, and acquainted the Captain that he was
under apprehensions, the people in them were some of the freebooters,
but he soon found his mistake, and returned to the ship. The Indians
supplied the ship’s crew with as much excellent fish, resembling
mackrel, as was sufficient for all their dinners, for which they gave
them some pieces of cloth.
A great variety of plants were this day collected by Mr. Banks and Dr.
Solander; they had never observed any of the kind before. These
gentlemen remained on shore till near dark, when they observed the
manner of the natives disposing of themselves during the night. They lay
under some bushes; the men nearest the sea in a semicircular form, and
the women and children the most distant from it; their arms were placed
against trees very near them, to defend themselves in case of a surprize
from the freebooters. They had no king, whose sovereignty they
acknowledged, which was a circumstance unparalleled on any other parts
of the coast.
Early in the morning of the 9th, several canoes brought a prodigious
quantity of mackrel, one sort of which was no way different from the
mackrel caught on our coast. These canoes were succeeded by many others,
equally well loaded with the same sort of fish; and the cargoes
purchased were so great, that when salted, they might be considered as a
month’s provision for the whole ship’s company.
This being a very clear day, the astronomer (Mr. Green) and the other
gentlemen landed to observe the Transit of Mercury, and whilst the
observation was making, a large canoe, with various commodities on
board, came alongside the ship and Mr. Gore, the officer who had then
the command, being desirous of encouraging them to traffick, produced a
piece of Otaheitean cloth, of more value than any they had yet seen,
which was immediately seized by one of the Indians, who obstinately
refused either to return it, or give any thing in exchange; he paid
dearly however for his temerity, being shot dead on the spot.
The death of this young Indian alarmed all the rest; they fled with
great precipitancy, and for the present could not be induced to renew
their traffick with the English. But when the Indians on shore had heard
the particulars related by Tojava, who greatly condemned the conduct of
the deceased, they seemed to think that he merited his fate. His name
proved to be Otirreeoonooe.
This transaction happened, as has been mentioned, whilst the observation
was making of the Transit of Mercury, when the weather was so
favourable, that the whole Transit was viewed without a cloud
intervening. Mr. Green made the observation of the ingress, whilst
Captain Cook was engaged in ascertaining the time, by taking the sun’s
altitude. The Transit commenced at 7 hours, 20 min. 58 sec. by Mr.
Green’s observation the internal contact was at 12 hours, 8 min. 57 sec.
the external at 12 hours, 9 min. 54 sec. the latitude 30 deg. 48 min. 5
sec. In consequence of this observation having been made here, this bay
was called _Mercury Bay_.
On the 10th Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and the Captain went in boats to
inspect a large river that runs into the bay. They found it broader some
miles within than at the mouth, and intersected into a number of
streams, by several small islands, which were covered with trees. On the
east side of the river the gentlemen shot some shags, which proved very
good eating. The shore abounded with fish of various kinds, such as
cockles, clams and oysters; and here were also ducks, shags, seapies and
curlieus, with other wild fowl in great plenty. At the mouth of the
river there was good anchorage in five fathom water. The gentlemen were
received with great hospitality by the inhabitants of a little village,
on the east side of the river. There are the remains of a fort called
Eppah, in a peninsula that projects into the river, and it was well
calculated for defending a small number against a greater force. From
the remains, it nevertheless seemed to have been taken and partly
destroyed.
The Indians sup before sun-set, when they eat fish and birds baked or
roasted; they roast them upon a stick, stuck in the ground near the
fire, and bake them in the manner the dog was baked, which the gentlemen
ate at King George’s Island.
A female mourner was present at one of their suppers; she was seated
upon the ground, and wept incessantly, at the same, time repeating some
sentences in a doleful manner, but which Tupia could not explain; at the
termination of each period she cut herself with a shell upon her breast,
her hands or her face; notwithstanding this shocking, bloody spectacle
greatly affected the gentlemen present, yet all the Indians who sat by
her, except one, were quite unmoved. The gentlemen saw some, who from
the depth of their scars must, upon these occasions, have wounded
themselves still more violently.
November 11, great plenty of oysters were procured from a bed which had
been discovered, and they proved exceedingly good. Next day the ship was
visited by two canoes, with unknown Indians; after some invitation they
came on board, and they all trafficked without any fraud.
Two fortified villages being descried, the Captain, with Mr. Banks and
Dr. Solander, went to examine them: the smallest was romantically
situated upon a rock, which was arched; this village did not consist of
above five or six houses, fenced round. There was but one path, which
was very narrow, that conducted to it. The gentlemen were invited by the
inhabitants to pay them a visit, but not having time to spare, they took
another route, after making presents to the females. A body of men,
women and children now approached the gentlemen, who proved to be the
inhabitants of another town, which they proposed visiting. They gave
many testimonials of their friendly dispositions, among others they
uttered the word _Heromai_, which, according to Tupia’s interpretation,
implied Peace, and appeared much satisfied, when informed the gentlemen
intended visiting their habitations. Their town was named _Wharretouwa_;
it is seated on a point of land over the sea, on the north side of the
bay; it was paled round, and defended by a double ditch. Within the
ditch a stage is erected for defending the place in case of an attack;
near this stage, which they call _Porava_, quantities of darts and
stones are deposited to be in readiness to repel the assailants. There
is another stage to command the path that leads to the town, and there
are also some outworks. Upon the whole, the place seemed calculated to
hold out a considerable time against an enemy armed with no other
weapons than those of the inhabitants. It appeared however deficient in
water for a siege. They eat instead of bread fern root, which was herein
great plenty, with dried fish.
Very little land is here cultivated, sweet potatoes and yams being the
only vegetables they found. There are two rocks near the foot of this
fortification, both separated from the main land; they are very small,
nevertheless they are not without dwelling-houses and little
fortifications. They throw stones in their engagements with their hands,
being destitute of a sling, and those and lances are their only missile
weapons; they have, besides the _Pattoo Pattoo_, already described, a
staff about five feet in length, and another shorter.
They sailed from this bay, after taking possession of it in the name of
the King of Great Britain, on the 15th of November; Tojava, who visited
them in his canoe just before their departure, said he should, as soon
as the English were gone, prepare to retire to his fort, as the
relations of Otirreeoonooe had menaced to take his life, as a forfeit
for that of the deceased, Tojava being judged partial in this affair to
the English. A number of islands of different sizes appeared towards the
north-west, which were named _Mercury Islands_. Mercury bay lies in
latitude 36 deg. 47 min. south; longitude 184 deg. 4 min. west, and has
a small entrance at its mouth. On account of the number of oysters found
in the river, the Captain gave it the name of _Oyster river_. _Mangrove
river_ (which the Captain so called from the great number of those trees
that grew near it) is the most secure place for shipping, being at the
head of the bay. The north-west side of this bay and river is much more
fertile than the east side. The inhabitants, though numerous, have no
plantations; their canoes are very indifferently constructed, and are no
way ornamented; they lie under continual apprehensions of Teratu, being
considered by him as rebels.
Upon this shore iron sand is in plenty to be found, which proves that
there are mines of that metal up the country, it being brought down by a
rivulet from thence.
On the 18th, in the morning, the Endeavour steered between the main, and
an island which seemed very fertile, and as extensive as Uli Etea. Many
canoes filled with Indians came along-side, and the Indians sung their
war song, but the Endeavour’s people paying them no attention, they
threw a volley of stones, and then paddled away; but they presently
returned and renewed their insults. Tupia spoke to them, making use of
his old argument, that inevitable destruction would ensue if they
persisted; they answered with brandishing their weapons, intimating, at
the same time, that if the English dared to come on shore they would
destroy them all. Tupia still persisted in expostulating with them, but
to no purpose; and they soon gave another volley of stones; but upon a
musket being fired at one of their boats, they made a precipitate
retreat.
In the evening they cast anchor in 23 fathom, and early the next morning
they sailed up an inlet. Soon after two canoes came off, and some of the
Indians came on board; they claimed an acquaintance with Tojava, and
knew Tupia’s name; and after they had received some presents they
retired peaceably.
The Endeavour was now in the bay, called by the natives Ooahaouragee,
and Captain Cook, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, &c. went in the boats
to the bottom of the bay to examine it, and they did not return till
next morning. They had been up a fresh water river, at the bottom of the
bay, in three fathoms water, which would make a good harbour. They met
with an Indian town, and a hippah, or place of refuge, the inhabitants
of which invited them to land, and gave them a friendly reception. At
the entrance of a wood they met with a tree ninety-eight feet high from
the ground to the first branch, quite strait, and nineteen feet in
circumference and they found still larger trees of the same kind as they
advanced into the wood. The Captain called this river THAMES, being not
unlike our river of that name. They also found several young cabbage
trees, and a new species of the palm-nut, or _Pardanus_.
Captain Cook weighed anchor the same afternoon, sailing down the river
with the tide, the wind blowing fresh from north-north-west; the next
morning the flood obliged him to cast anchor again; and the Captain,
with Dr. Solander, went on shore to the west, but made no observations
worth relating. The ship, at their departure from it, was surrounded
with canoes, which induced Mr. Banks to remain on board, that he might
trade with the Indians. The chief object of these people was paper, for
which they exchanged their arms and cloaths, and took no unfair
advantages. Though the traders were honest in their dealings, there was
one amongst them, who took a fancy to a half-minute glass, but was
detected in secreting it, and he was punished with the cato’nine tails.
The other Indians endeavoured to save him from this punishment; but
being opposed, they got their arms from the canoes, and some of the
people in them attempted to get on board. Mr. Banks and Tupia now coming
upon deck, the Indians applied to Tupia but he having no influence upon
Mr. Hicks, the commanding officer, informed them of the nature of the
offender’s intended punishment, which pacified them, as they imagined he
was going to be put to death. The criminal not only received twelve
lashes, but afterwards a drubbing from an old man, who was thought to be
his father. The canoes immediately went off, the Indians saying, they
should be afraid to return again on board. Tupia, however, had so much
influence over them as to bring them back; but they seemed to have lost
that confidence, which they had before reposed in the English.
On the 23d the wind being still against them, they were obliged to tide
it down the river, anchoring between tides; they passed a point of land,
which the Captain called _Point Rodney_, and which is the north-west
extremity of the river. As they could not approach the land, on account
of the wind, they had but a distant view of the main for a course of
near thirty miles. Captain Cook comprehended, under the name of the
River Thames, the whole bay; and the promontory at the north-east
extremity, he called Cape Colville, in honour of the peer of that name.
This cape is in latitude 36 deg. 26 min. longitude 194 deg. 27 min. it
is distinguishable at a considerable distance by a very high rock. The
river runs south by east from the south point of this cape; it is, in
the narrowest parts, at least three leagues over for near fourteen
leagues, when it becomes narrower. It was thought to contain fish in
abundance, as there appeared many implements necessary for fishing; the
water was in some places twenty-six fathoms deep, and gradually
diminished. There are several small islands within cape Colville, which
appear to form tolerable harbours. There are also islands towards the
western shore. The anchorage is good in all parts of the bay, which is
defended from the sea by a number of small islands, which Captain Cook
named _Barrier Islands_.
The circumjacent country, which is pretty extensive, appeared to be but
thinly inhabited; the natives are a stout and active people, and are
painted red all over: their canoes were ornamented with carving, and
were constructed upon a good model.
On the 24th, they still continued steering along the shore, between the
islands and the main, and in the evening anchored in an open bay, in
about fourteen fathoms water. Here they caught a large number of fish of
the scienne, or bream kind; from which the Captain named this _Bream
Bay_, and the extreme points of it _Bream Head_. There are numbers of
rocks off this bay, which were called the _Hen and Chickens_; it is
situated in latitude 35 deg. 46 min. seventeen leagues north-west of
cape Colville. There is an extent of land of about thirty miles between
Point Rodney and Bream Head; it is woody and low. No inhabitants were
visible, but from the fires perceived at night, the gentlemen concluded
it was inhabited.
On the 25th, early in the morning, the Endeavour sailed out of the bay,
keeping to the northward near the shore. Some islands were soon after
discovered, about ten miles to the north-north-east, which they called
the _Poor Knights_; upon these islands there were some houses, and a few
towns that appeared fortified, and the land round them seemed
cultivated. Towards night several canoes, with a number of Indians, came
up to the ship, and some came on board. Two of the Chiefs received
presents, and told the gentlemen, that they had had an account of the
arrival of the English in those parts. After their departure other
Indians came up to trade, and soon began their usual fraudulent
practices; the gentlemen had recourse to the old remedy of firing some
small shot, and a round shot, which soon put them to flight.
Sunday the 26th, Captain Cook continued his course slowly along the
shore to the north. This day two canoes came up, and some of the Indians
came on board, when they trafficked very fairly. Two larger canoes soon
after followed them, and coming up to the ship, the people in them
hailed the others, when they conferred together, and afterwards came
along-side of the ship. The last two canoes were finely ornamented with
carving, and the people, who appeared to be of higher rank, were armed
with various weapons; they held in high estimation their _Patoo Patoos_,
which were made of stone and whalebone, and they had ribs of whale, with
ornaments of dog’s hair, which were very curious. These people were of a
darker complexion than those to the southward, and their faces were
stained blacker, with what they call Amoco; and their thighs were
striped with it, very small interstices of the flesh being left visible.
Though they all used the black _Amoco_, they applied it to different
parts, and in various forms. Most of them had the figure of volutes on
their lips, and one woman in particular was curiously marked upon
various parts of her body. These Indians seemed the superiors of the
others, they were nevertheless not free from the vice of pilfering, for
one of them having agreed to barter a weapon for a piece of cloth, he
was no sooner in possession of the cloth, than he paddled away without
paying the price of it; but a musquet being fired, he came back and
returned the cloth. All the canoes then returned ashore.
The Endeavour passed a remarkable point of land, which the Captain
called _Cape Bret_, in honour of the baronet of that name: this cape is
much higher than any of the adjacent land. Within a mile to the
north-east by north is a curious rocky island; it is arched, and has a
pleasing effect at a distance. The natives call this _Cape Motugogogo_:
it lies in latitude 35 deg. 10 min. 30 sec. south; and longitude 185
deg. 23 min. west. It forms a bay to the west, which contains many small
islands, and Captain Cook named the point at the north-west entrance
_Point Pococke_. There are many villages on the main as well as on the
islands, which appeared well inhabited, and several canoes, filled with
Indians, made to the ship, and after coming along-side to trade, shewed
the same itch for cheating as the others. One of the midshipmen was so
nettled at being imposed upon, that he had recourse to a whimsical
expedient by way of revenge; taking a fishing line, he threw the lead
with so much dexterity, that the hook caught the Indian who had imposed
upon him by the buttocks, when the line breaking, the hook remained in
his posteriors. These Indians were strong and well proportioned; their
hair was black, and tied up in a bunch stuck with feathers: the Chiefs
among them had garments made of fine cloth, ornamented with dog’s skin;
and they were tataowed like those who had last appeared.
On the 27th the Endeavour was among a number of small islands, from
which several canoes came off; but the Indians, from their frantic
gestures, seemed disordered in their minds; they threw their fish into
the ship by handfuls, without demanding any thing by way of barter. Some
other canoes also came up, who saluted the ship with stones. One of the
Indians, who was particularly active, threw a stick at one of the
Endeavour’s men. It was then judged time to bring them to reason, and a
musquet, with small shot was fired at him, when he fell down in the
canoe. A general terror was now spread amongst them, and they all made a
very precipitate retreat. Among the fish obtained from these canoes,
were _Cavalles_ in great plenty, and for this reason the Captain called
these islands by the same name.
For several days the wind was so very unfavourable, that the vessel
rather lost than gained ground; on the 29th, having weathered Cape Bret,
they bore away to leeward, and got into a large bay, where they anchored
on the south-west side of several islands, and suddenly came into four
fathom and a half water. Upon sounding, they found they had got upon a
bank, and accordingly weighed and dropped over it, and anchored again in
ten fathoms and a half; after which the ship was surrounded by
thirty-three large canoes, containing near three hundred Indians all
armed. Some of them were admitted on board, and Captain Cook gave a
piece of broad cloath to one of the Chiefs, and some small presents to
the others. They traded peaceably for some time, being terrified at the
fire arms, the effect of which they were not unacquainted with; but
whilst the Captain was at dinner, on a signal given by one of their
Chiefs, all the Indians quitted the ship, and they attempted to tow away
the buoy; a musquet was now fired over them, but it produced no effect;
small shot was then fired at them, but it did not reach them. A musquet,
loaded with ball, was therefore ordered to be fired, and _Otegoowgoow_
(son of one of the Chiefs) was wounded in the thigh by it, which induced
them immediately to throw the buoy overboard. To complete their
confusion a round shot was fired, which reached the shore, and as soon
as they landed they ran in search of it. If these Indians had been under
any kind of military discipline, they might have proved a much more
formidable enemy; but acting thus, without any plan or regulation, they
only exposed themselves to the annoyance of fire arms, whilst they could
not possibly succeed in any of their designs.