the Foreland. The natives in canoes invited them hither, and behaved
very amicably. There appeared to be two Chiefs, who came on board: they
received presents of linen, which gave them much satisfaction; but they
did not hold spike-nails in such estimation as the inhabitants of some
of the islands. They were dressed in jackets, the one ornamented with
tufts of red feathers, the other with dog’s skin. The other Indians in
the canoes traded with the Endeavour’s people, without attempting any
imposition; and towards the evening the Chiefs returned. The Captain,
Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, now went on shore, and were courteously
received by the inhabitants, who did not appear in numerous bodies, to
avoid giving offence. They received several trifling presents, and the
Captain had the pleasure to find fresh water, in the course of a tour
round the bay. They remained on shore all night, and next day Mr. Banks
and the Doctor discovered several plants, and many beautiful birds,
particularly quails and large pigeons. There were some houses with
fences, to shelter them from the wind, and many stages for drying fish
near the place where the gentlemen landed. Dogs with small pointed ears,
and very ugly, were the only tame animals among them. At the
watering-place the Captain ordered a line to be drawn, and enjoined the
natives not to pass it, which injunction they civilly complied with.
Many houses were contiguous, and the lands in the adjacent vallies were
regular flats, neatly laid out in small plantations, the ground
appearing to be broken, as if designed for gardens. They have sweet
potatoes, like those of North America, in great quantities; and the
cloth plant grows here spontaneously. There is plenty of fish in the
bay, such as crabs, cray-fish, and ship-jacks or horse mackrel, which
are larger than those upon our coasts. The number of supple jacks that
grow in the adjacent woods, render them almost impassable; but they
thereby afford shelter to their feathered inhabitants: the flat land was
planted with cocos, and the hollow parts with gourds. Mr. Banks and Dr.
Solander visited several of the natives houses, and they met with a very
civil reception. Fish constituted their principal food at this time, and
the root of a sort of fern served them for bread, which when roasted
upon a fire, and divested of its bark, was sweet and clammy; in taste
not disagreeable, but unpleasant from its number of fibres. Vegetables
were, doubtless, at other seasons very plentiful. The women paint their
faces red, which so far from increasing, diminishes the very little
beauty they have. The mens faces were not in general painted, but some
were rubbed over with red ocre from head to foot, their apparel not
excepted. Though they could not be compared to the inhabitants of
Otaheite for cleanliness in general, they surpassed them in this respect
in some particulars. Every dwelling was supplied with a privy, and they
had dunghills for depositing dirt and filth. The women wore a girdle
made of the blade of grass under a petticoat, and to this girdle was
tied in front a bunch of fragrant leaves. They seemed to hold chastity
in but little estimation, many of the young females resorting to the
watering-place, where they bountifully bestowed every favour that was
requested. One of the officers on shore, meeting with an elderly woman,
he accompanied her to her house, and having presented her with some
cloth and beads, a young girl was singled out, and he was given to
understand he might retire with her. Soon after an elderly man, with two
women, came in as visitors, and with much formality saluted all the
company, according to the custom of the place, which is by gently
joining the tips of their noses together. The officer upon his return
was furnished with a guide, who led him a much better road than that he
had come, and whenever they came to a brook or rivulet, the Indian took
him upon his back to preserve him from being wet; several of the
inhabitants were curiously tataowed, and one old man, in particular, was
marked on the breast with various figures. There was an axe made of the
green stone, already mentioned, which could not be purchased, though
many things were offered in exchange. At night they danced in a very
uncouth manner, making antick gestures, lolling out their tongues, with
other strange grimaces; and in these dances old men with grey beards
were, as well as the young ones, capital performers. They carried their
civility so far, as to assist Mr. Banks and his company with one of
their canoes to carry them on board; but the Endeavour’s people being
unacquainted with the method of steering such a vessel, she was overset,
but no one was drowned; and they reached the ship without any farther
accident, some of the Indians having voluntarily engaged to conduct her.
During the stay of the gentlemen on shore, many of the natives went off
in their canoes, and trafficked with the ship’s company, preferring at
first the cloth of Otaheite to that of Europe; but it soon diminished in
its value. Several of the Indians went on board, and testified their
curiosity and surprise, with regard to the different parts of the ship.
Sunday 22, in the evening, they sailed from this bay, which by the
natives is called _Tegadoo_, and lies in latitude 38 deg. 10 min. south.
The wind being contrary, they put into another bay a little to the
south, called by the natives _Tolaga_, in order to complete their wood
and water, and extend their correspondence with the natives; in this bay
they came to an anchor in about eleven fathom water, with a good sandy
bottom. Several canoes appeared, with Indians on board, and they
trafficked very fairly for glass bottles and cloth. The Captain, Mr.
Banks, and the Doctor, went in the afternoon to examine the water, and
found it extremely good; here was also plenty of wood, and the natives
behaved with as much civility as those they had just departed from.
On the 24th, Mr. Gore and the marines were sent on shore, to guard the
people employed in cutting wood and filling water. Captain Cook, Mr.
Banks and the Doctor also went on shore; the two latter employed
themselves in collecting plants. In their route they found in the vales
many houses uninhabited, the natives residing chiefly in slight sheds,
on the ridges of the hills, which are very steep. In a valley between
two very high hills they saw a curious rock, that formed a large arch,
opposite to the sea; this cavity was in length above seventy feet, in
breadth thirty, and near fifty in height; it commanded a view of the
hills and the bay, which had a very happy effect. Indeed, the whole
country about the bay is agreeable beyond description, and if properly
cultivated would be a most fertile spot. The hills are covered with
beautiful flowering shrubs, intermixed with a great number of tall and
stately palms, which perfume the air, and make it most agreeably
odoriferous. Mr. Banks and the Doctor found the tree that produces the
cabbage, which, when boiled, was very good; and some other trees that
yielded a fine transparent gum. Between the hills were fruitful
villages, that might have been successfully cultivated, or turned into
pasturage. Various kinds of edible herbage, were met with in great
abundance, and there was reason to believe there were many trees that
produced fruit fit to eat, some of which the gentlemen examined. The
plant, from which the cloth is made, is a kind of Hemerocallis, the
leaves of which afford a strong glossy flax, equally adapted to
cloathing, as making of ropes. There are sweet potatoes and yam
plantations near their houses, which are carefully cultivated. These
gentlemen, upon their return, met an old man, who entertained them with
the military exercises of the natives, which are performed with the
_Patoo Patoo_, and the lance. The former has already been mentioned, and
is used as a battle-axe; the latter is ten or twelve feet in length,
made of extreme hard wood, and sharpened at each end. A stake was
substituted for their old warriors supposed enemy; he first attacked him
with his lance, when, having pierced him, the Patoo Patoo was used to
demolish his head, and the force with which he struck would at one blow
have split any man’s skull. This mode of fighting induced the gentlemen
to believe no quarter was ever given here in war. The natives in this
part are not very numerous; they are tolerably well shaped, but lean and
tall; their faces resemble those of Europeans; their noses are aqueline;
their eyes dark coloured; their hair is black, which is tied up on the
top of their heads, and their beards are of a moderate length. Their
tataowing is done very curiously in various figures, which makes their
skin resemble carving; it is confined to the principal men, the females
and servants using only red paint, with which they daub their faces,
that otherwise would not be disagreeable. Their cloth is white, glossy
and very even; it is worn principally by the men, though it is wrought
by the women, who, indeed, are condemned to all the drudgery and labour.
[Illustration: _View of a perforated Rock in Tolago Bay_]
[Illustration: _The Head of a new Zealand Chief curiously Tataowed._]
On the 25th an armourer’s forge was set up on shore for necessary uses.
Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went again in search of plants. Tupia, who
was with them engaged in a conversation with one of the priests, and
they seemed to agree in their opinions upon the subject of religion.
Tupia, in the course of this conference, enquired, whether the report of
their eating men was founded in truth; to which the priest replied it
was, but that they ate none but declared foes, after they were killed in
war. This idea is, however, horrid and barbarous, and proves that they
carry their resentment even beyond death.
Captain Cook and Dr. Solander went on the 27th to inspect the bay, when
the Doctor was not a little surprised to find the natives in the
possession of a boy’s top, which they knew how to spin by whipping it,
and he purchased it out of curiosity. Mr. Banks was during this time
employed in attaining the summit of a steep hill, that had previously
engaged their attention; and near it he found many uninhabited houses.
Here were two rows of poles about fourteen or fifteen feet high, covered
over with sticks, which made an avenue of about five feet in width,
extending near a hundred yards down the hill in an irregular line: the
intent of this erection was not discovered. When the gentlemen met at
the watering-place, the Indians, by desire, sung their war song, which
was a strange medley of shouting, sighing and grimace, at which the
women assisted. The next day Captain Cook and the other gentlemen went
upon an island at the entrance of the bay, and met with a canoe that was
sixty seven feet in length, six in breadth, and four in height; her
bottom, which was sharp, consisted of three trunks of trees, and the
sides and head were curiously carved. There was a large unfinished house
upon this island; the posts which supported it were ornamented with
carvings, that did not appear to be done upon the spot; and as the
inhabitants seem to set a great value upon works of this kind, future
navigators might find their advantage in carrying such articles to trade
with. Though the posts of this house were judged to be brought here, the
people have certainly a taste for carving, as their boats, paddles, and
tops of walking-sticks evince. Their favourite figure is a volute or
spiral, which is sometimes single, double and triple, and is done with
great exactness, though the only instruments the gentlemen saw were an
axe made of stone, and a chissel. Their taste, however, must be
acknowledged whimsical and extravagant, scarce ever imitating nature.
Their huts are built under trees; their form is an oblong square: the
door is low on the side, and the windows are at the ends; reeds, covered
with thatch, compose the walls; the beams of the eaves, which come to
the ground, are covered with thatch; most of the houses the gentlemen
saw had been deserted, through fear of the English upon their landing.
There are many beautiful parrots, and great numbers of birds of
different kinds, particularly one whose note resembled the European
black bird; but here is no ground fowl or poultry; nor were there any
quadrupeds, except rats and dogs, and these were not numerous. The dogs
are considered as delicate food, and their skins serve for ornaments to
their apparel. There is a great variety of fish in the bay: shell and
crayfish is very plentiful; some of the latter weigh near a dozen
pounds.
Sunday, Oct 29, they set sail from this bay, which is called by the
natives _Tolaga_. It is seated in latitude 38 deg. 22 min. south, four
leagues to the north of Gable end Foreland: there are two high rocks at
the entrance of the bay, which form a cove very convenient for procuring
wood and water. There is a high rocky island off the north point of the
bay, which affords good anchorage, having a fine sandy bottom, and from
seven to thirteen fathom water, and is likewise sheltered from all but
the north-east wind.
Captain Cook obtained nothing here in trade but some sweet potatoes, and
a little fish. This is a very hilly country, though it presents the eye
with an agreeable verdure, various woods, and many small plantations.
Mr. Banks met with a great number of trees in the woods, quite unknown
to Europeans; the firewood resembled the maple tree, and produced a gum
of whitish colour; other trees yielded a gum of deep yellow green. The
only roots they met with were yams and sweet potatoes, though the soil
appears very proper for producing every species of vegetables.
Sailing to the northward, they fell in with a small island, about a mile
distant from the north-east point of the main; and this being the most
eastern part of it, the Captain named it EAST CAPE, and the island EAST
ISLAND: it was but small, and appeared barren. The cape is in latitude
37 degrees 42 minutes 30 seconds south. There are many small bays from
Tolaga Bay to East Cape. When the Endeavour had doubled the cape, many
villages presented themselves to view, and the adjacent land appeared
cultivated. In the evening of the 30th, Lieutenant Hicks discovered a
bay, to which his name was given. Next morning, about nine, several
canoes came off from shore with a number of armed men, who appeared to
have hostile intentions. Before these had reached the ship, another
canoe, larger than any that had yet been seen, full of armed Indians
came off, and made towards the Endeavour with great expedition. The
Captain now judging it expedient to prevent, if possible, their
attacking him, ordered a gun to be fired over their heads; this not
producing the desired effect, another gun was fired with ball, which
threw them into such consternation, that they immediately returned much
faster than they came. This precipitate retreat, induced the Captain to
give the cape, off which it happened, the name of CAPE RUNAWAY, which
lies in latitude 37 degrees 32 minutes, longitude 181 degrees 48
minutes. Next morning, at day break, they saw between forty and fifty
canoes along shore, many of which came off in the manner they had done
the day before, shouting, and menacing an attack. One of their Chiefs in
the largest of the canoes made several harangues, and by the menacing
flourish of his pike, seemed to bid the ship defiance; but the gentlemen
continuing to invite them to trade, they at last came close along-side,
and the Chief who had been declaiming, after uttering a sentence, took
up a stone and threw it against the side of the ship, which appeared to
be a declaration of hostilities, as they instantly seized their arms;
Tupia told them, that immediate destruction would ensue, if they
persevered in their design, and at the same time assured them of the
gentlemens pacific intentions, and that they only wanted to traffick
with them. Neither his threats nor persuasions would probably have had
any effect, had he not at the same time shewn them some pieces of cloth,
which attracted their eye, and brought them to reason. The gentlemen now
purchased a great quantity of cray-fish, muscles and conger-eels. These
Indians did not attempt any fraud in their trading; but some others, who
succeeded them, took the goods from the ship without making proper
returns: one of them, who had been particularly culpable, and seemed to
pride himself upon his cunning, putting off with his canoe, was brought
back by a musquet being fired over his head, and this presently produced
good order. But when the sailors began to traffick with the Indians,
they renewed their former fraudulent practices, with great insolence.
One of them seized some linen that was hanging to dry, and made off with
it; a musquet was fired over his head to make him return, but this did
not prevail, and even after another was fired at him with small shot,
which hit him in the back, he still persevered in his design. Upon this
the rest of the Indians dropt a-stern at some distance, and set up their
song of defiance. They did not, however, make any preparations for
attacking the ship; but the Captain judged, that if he suffered them to
go off without convincing them of his power of avenging the insult, it
might give an unfavourable opinion of the English, to the natives on
shore. He accordingly fired a four pounder, which passed over them, and
the effect it had in the water terrified them so greatly, that they made
to shore with the utmost precipitancy. In the afternoon they descried a
high island to the west, and some time after perceived some other
islands and rocks in the same quarter; not being able to weather them
before night came on, they bore up between them and the main-land. About
seven in the evening a double canoe, built like those at Otaheite, but
carved after their peculiar manner, came up to the ship, and Tupia
entered into a friendly conversation with the Indians on board; when, on
a sudden, it being now dark, they pelted the ship with stones, and then
retreated. Tupia was told by the Indians in the canoe, that the island
close to which the Endeavour lay, was called _Mowtohera_; it was but a
few miles from the main-land, of no great extent, but pretty high. They
saw a high round mountain, south-west by west of _Mowtohera_, which the
Captain named MOUNT EDGECOMBE.
The next morning, November 2, many canoes made their appearance, and
one, which proved to be the same that gave the salute the night before,
came up, and Tupia again engaged in conversation with the people in her.
After behaving very peaceably about an hour, the fit of pelting again
seized them, and they gave the ship another volley of stones; but a
musquet being fired, they instantly took to their paddles.
In the forenoon, of the same day, the Endeavour sailed between a low
flat island and the main: the villages upon the latter were more
extensive than any they had yet seen. They were upon the high land next
the sea, and were surrounded by a bank with rails on the top of it, and
a ditch. There were some inclosures that resembled forts, and the whole
had the appearance of fortified places. The Endeavour passed the night
under an island about twenty miles from the main, which they named the
MAYOR. In the morning of the 3d, they gave the name of THE COURT OF
ALDERMEN to a number of small islands that lay contiguous, about twelve
miles from the main, between which there are several other small islands
mostly barren, but very high. The aspect of the main-land was now much
changed, the soil appearing barren, and the country very thinly
inhabited. The Chief, who governed the district from Cape _Turnagain_ to
this coast, was named _Teratu_.
On Friday the 3d, three canoes came a-longside with several Indians.
These canoes were built very different from the others, being formed of
the trunks of single trees, made hollow by burning: they were not
carved, or in any shape ornamented. These Indians were of a darker
complexion than the others, but made use of the same modes of defiance,
and threw several stones and some of their lances into the ship.
The same afternoon the Endeavour sailed towards an inlet they had
discovered, and anchored in seven fathom water. She was soon after
surrounded by several canoes, and the Indians at first did not shew any
signs that they intended committing hostilities. One of the Endeavour’s
people shot a bird, which the Indians conveyed on board, without
testifying any surprise at the event. For their civility, the Captain
gave them a piece of cloth. But this favour had a very opposite
influence to what was expected, for when it grew dark, they sung one of
their menacing songs, and attempted to carry off the anchor’s buoy. Some
musquets were now fired over them, which seemed rather to irritate than
terrify them, and upon their going off, they threatened to return the
next morning in greater numbers; they came back however the same night
about eleven o’clock, in hopes of surprising the ship’s crew; but
finding them on their guard, they again retired.
In the morning of the 4th, a great number of canoes, with near two
hundred men, armed with spears, lances and stones, made their
appearance, seemingly resolved to attack the ship, and desirous of
boarding her, but could not determine at what part, changing their
stations, and paddling round her. These motions kept the crew upon the
watch, in the rain, whilst Tupia, at the request of the Captain, used
every dissuasive argument he could suggest to prevent their carrying
their apparent designs into execution; but his expostulations did not
pacify them till some musquets were fired; they then laid aside their
hostile intentions, and began to trade: they sold two of their weapons
without fraud, but a third, for which they had received cloth, they
would not deliver up, and instead of paying any attention to the demand
that was made of it, they only laughed at them, and turned their
expostulations into ridicule. As the Captain proposed to stay some days
at this place, that he might observe the Transit of Mercury, he judged
it expedient to chastise these people for their insolence and knavery;
accordingly some small shot were fired upon the principal offender, and
a musquet-ball went through his canoe. His companions left him to his
fate, without taking the least notice of him, though he was wounded, and
continued to trade without any discomposure. They for some time traded
very fairly, but returning to their male practices, another canoe was
fired upon, and struck: they soon after paddled away, whilst a round
shot was fired over them.
Thus we find, that theft and chicane are as prevalent amongst the
inhabitants of New Zealand, as those of Otaheite; from whence we might
conclude, that in all uncivilized nations, probity is not considered as
a virtue, or theft as a vice. Having no punishment for crimes of this
kind, it may be urged, that they are not taught to consider them as
such; but if nature has implanted in us just ideas of right and wrong,
they must operate as forcibly upon the inhabitants under the line, as on
those of other climes; and a native of Otaheite must be equally
conscious of a breach of natural justice as the most polished European.
However, as this is establishing the doctrine of innate ideas, which
would lead us into a large field of controversy, we shall leave the
reader to his own opinion upon this subject.
In searching for a convenient anchoring-place, the Captain saw a village
upon a high point, near the head of the bay, fortified like those
villages already mentioned. Having met with a place to his mind near
where the Endeavour lay, he returned to the ship, and sailed to that
spot, where he cast anchor.