Indians in the canoes soon after came on shore. The gentlemen were now
in a small cove, and they were presently surrounded by near four hundred
armed Indians; but the Captain not suspecting any hostile design on the
part of the natives, remained peaceably disposed. The gentlemen marching
towards them, drew a line, intimating that they were not to pass it;
they did not infringe upon this boundary for some time, but at length
they sung the song of defiance, and began to dance, whilst a party
attempted to draw the Endeavour’s boats on shore; these signals for an
attack being immediately followed by the Indians breaking in upon the
line, the gentlemen judged it time to defend themselves, and accordingly
the Captain fired his musquet, loaded with small shot, which was
seconded by Mr. Banks discharging his piece, and two of the men followed
his example. This threw the Indians into confusion, and they retreated;
but were rallied again by one of their Chiefs, who shouted and waved his
patoo patoo. The Doctor now pointed his musquet at this hero, and hit
him; this stopt his career, and he took to flight with the other
Indians. They retired to an eminence in a collective body, and seemed
dubious whether they should return to the charge. They were now at too
great a distance for ball to reach them; but these operations being
observed from the ship, she brought her broad side to bear, and by
firing over them soon dispersed them. The Indians had in this skirmish
two of their people wounded, but none killed. Peace being thus restored,
the gentlemen began to gather celery and other herbs; but suspecting
some of the natives were lurking about with evil designs, they repaired
to a cave, which was at a small distance; here they found the Chief, who
had that day received a present from the Captain; he came forth with his
wife and brother, and solicited their clemency. It appeared, that one of
the wounded Indians was a brother of this Chief, who was under great
anxiety lest the wound should prove mortal; but his grief was in a great
degree alleviated, when he was made acquainted with the different
effects of small shot and ball; he was at the same time assured, that
upon any future hostilities being committed ball would be used. This
interview terminated very cordially, after some trifling presents were
made to the Chief and his companions.
The prudence of the gentlemen upon this occasion, cannot be much
commended. Had these four hundred Indians boldly rushed in upon them at
once with their weapons, the musquetry could have done very little
execution; but supposing twenty or thirty of the Indians had been
wounded, for it does not appear their pieces were loaded with ball, but
only small shot, there would have remained a sufficient number to have
massacred them, as it appears they do not give any quarter, and none
could have been expected upon this occasion. It is true, when the ship
brought her broad-side to bear, she might have made great havock amongst
the Indians; but this would have been too late to save the party on
shore.
Being again in their boats, they rowed to another part of the same
island, when landing and gaining an eminence, they had a very agreeable
and romantic view of a great number of islands, well inhabited and
cultivated. The inhabitants of an adjacent town approached unarmed, and
testified great humility and submission. Some of the party on shore, who
had been very violent for having the Indians punished for their
fraudulent conduct, were now guilty of trespasses equally reprehensible,
having forced into some of the plantations, and dug up potatoes. The
Captain upon this occasion shewed strict justice in punishing each of
the offenders with twelve lashes: one of them being very refractory upon
the occasion, and complaining of the hardship, thinking an Englishman
had a right to plunder an Indian with impunity, was flogged out of this
opinion with six additional lashes. Probably his adding “that in this,
he had only followed the example of his superiors,” might have had no
little weight in procuring him this last sentence.
It being a dead calm on the 30th, two boats were sent to sound the
harbour, and many canoes came up, and traded with great probity: the
gentlemen went again on shore, and met with a very civil reception from
the natives; and this friendly intercourse continued all the time they
remained in the bay, which was several days. Being upon a visit to the
old Chief, he shewed them the instruments used in tataowing, which were
very like those at Otaheite employed upon the like occasion. They saw
the man who had been wounded by the ball, when the attempt was made to
carry off the ship’s buoy; and though it had gone through the fleshy
part of his arm, it did not seem to give him the least pain or
uneasiness.
On Tuesday the 5th, in the morning, they weighed anchor, but were soon
becalmed, and a strong current setting towards the shore, they were
driven in with such rapidity, that they expected every moment to run
upon the breakers, which appeared above water not more than a cable’s
length distance; they were so near the land, that Tupia, who was totally
ignorant of the danger, held a conversation with the Indians, who were
standing on the beach. They were happily relieved, however, from this
alarming situation by a fresh breeze, suddenly springing up from the
shore.
The bay which they had left was called the _Bay of Islands_, on account
of the numerous islands it contains; they catched but few fish while
they lay there, but procured great plenty from the natives, who are
extremely expert at fishing, and display great ingenuity in the form of
their nets, which are made of a kind of grass; they are two or three
hundred fathoms in length, and remarkably strong; and they have them in
such plenty, that it is scarce possible to go a hundred yards upon the
beach, without meeting with numbers lying in heaps. These people did not
appear to be under the government of any particular Chief or Sovereign,
and they seemed to live in a perfect state of friendship,
notwithstanding their villages were fortified. According to their
observations upon the tides, the flood comes from the south, and there
is a current from the west.
Dec. 7, several canoes put off and followed the Endeavour, but a breeze
arising, Captain Cook did not wait for them: on the 8th they tacked, and
stood in for the shore: and on the 9th, they were about seven leagues to
the westward of the Cavalles, and soon after came to a deep bay, which
the Captain named _Doubtless Bay_. The wind prevented their putting in
here, and being soon after becalmed, they were visited by several canoes
from shore, with whom they trafficked. From these Indians they learnt,
they were about two days sail from _Moore Whennua_, where the land
changed its shape, and instead of extending to the westward, turned to
the south; and that to the north-north-west there was an extensive
country, named _Ulimaroah_, where the inhabitants lived upon hogs, which
they called _Booah_, and was the same name given them by the inhabitants
of the islands in the South Seas. They saw upon the coast several
plantations, of the Eaowte, or cloth trees, and some of the Koomarra.
They beat to windward four days, and made but little way. On the 10th,
the land appeared low and barren, but was not destitute of inhabitants;
the next morning, they stood in with the land, which forms a peninsula,
and which the Captain named _Knuckle Point_. Another bay, that lies
contiguous, Captain Cook called _Sandy Bay_, in the middle of it is a
high mountain, which was named _Mount Camel_, on account of its
resembling that animal. Several canoes put off, but could not reach the
ship, which now tacked and stood to the northward, till the afternoon of
the 12th, when she stood to the north-east. Towards night it began to
rain and blow, and in the morning it was so tempestuous, as to split the
main-top-sail, and the fore mizen-top-sails. Early in the morning of the
14th, they saw land to the southward; and on the 15th, they tacked and
stood to the westward; next day they discovered land from the mast-head
to the south-south-west; and on the 16th came off the northern extremity
of New Zealand, which the Captain called NORTH CAPE. It lies in latitude
34 deg. 22 min. south, longitude 186 deg. 55 min. west, and forms the
north point of Sandy Bay. Their situation varied but little till the
24th, when they discovered land, which they judged to be the islands of
the Three Kings, though they did not resemble the description of them in
Dalrymple’s account. The chief island is in latitude 34 deg. 12 min.
south, longitude 187 deg. 48 min west, between fourteen or fifteen
leagues from North Cape. Mr. Banks went out in the small boat, and
caught some birds that greatly resembled geese, and they were very good
eating. On the 27th, it blew very hard from the east all day,
accompanied with heavy showers of rain, and they brought the ship under
a reef main-sail. On the 30th they saw land, bearing north-east, which
was thought to be Cape Maria Van Diemen, but the sea being very
boisterous, they did not venture to approach it, but tacked about and
stood to the north-west.
January 1, 1770, they tacked and stood to the eastward; and on the 3d
they saw land again; it was high and flat, and tended away to the
south-east, beyond the reach of the naked eye. It is remarkable, that
the Endeavour was three weeks in making ten leagues to the westward, and
that she met with a violent gale of wind in latitude 35 deg. south, at
Midsummer. On the morning of the 4th they stood along the shore, the
coast appearing sandy and barren, dreary and inhospitable; steering
northward on the 6th they saw land again, which they imagined to be Cape
Maria: on the 7th, they had light breezes, and were sometimes becalmed,
when they saw a sun-fish, short and thick in figure, with two large
fins, but scarce any tail, resembling a shark in colour and size. They
continued steering east till the 9th, when they perceived land, and were
soon after a-breast of a point, which Captain Cook named _Woody-head_.
From the south-west there is a small island, which the Captain called
_Gannet Island_. Another point remarkably high to the east-north-east,
the Captain named _Albetross Point_, on the north side of which a bay is
formed that promises good anchorage. At about two leagues distance from
Albetross Point to the north-east, they discovered a remarkable high
mountain, equal in height to that, of Teneriffe, the summit of which was
covered with snow, and it was named Mount _Egmont_. It is in latitude 39
deg. 16 min. longitude 185 deg. 15 min. west, and the country round it
is pleasant, presenting an agreeable verdure, intersected with woods:
the coast forms an extensive cape, which the Captain likewise called
cape Egmont, in honour of the nobleman of that name. It is about
twenty-seven leagues to the south-south-west of Albetross Point, having
two small islands to the north, near a very high point of a conic
figure. This day some very heavy showers of rain fell, accompanied with
thunder and lightening. The Captain proposed careening the ship here,
and taking in wood and water; and accordingly, on the 15th, steered for
an inlet; when it being almost a calm, the ship was carried by the
current very near the shore, but got clear with the assistance of the
boats. Whilst this was doing a sea lion made its appearance; it is a
very curious creature, and answers the description given of it in Lord
Anson’s Voyage. The Captain sent the pinnace to examine a small cove
that appeared, but soon after recalled her, on seeing the natives launch
and arm their canoes. The Endeavour anchored in a commodious part of the
bay, in sailing towards which spot an Indian town was descried, when the
inhabitants waved their hands, seemingly to invite the Endeavour’s
people to land. In passing the point of the bay, they observed an armed
centinel on duty, who was twice relieved. Four canoes came from shore to
visit the ship, but none of the Indians would venture on board, except
an old man, who seemed of elevated rank: his countrymen took great pains
to prevent his coming on board, but they could not divert him from his
purpose, and he was received with the utmost civility and hospitality.
Tupia and the old man joined noses, according to the custom of the
country, and after receiving several presents, he returned to his
associates, when they began to dance and laugh, and soon after retired.
The Captain and the other gentlemen now went on shore, where they met
with plenty of wood and water, and were very successful in fishing,
catching some hundred weight in a short time.
On the 16th the Endeavour’s people were engaged in careening her, when
three canoes came off with a great number of Indians, and brought
several of their women with them. This circumstance was judged a
favourable presage of their peaceable disposition, but they soon gave
proofs of the contrary, by attempting to stop the long-boat that was
sent on shore for water, when Captain Cook had recourse to the old
expedient of firing some shot, which intimidated them for the present;
but they soon gave fresh proofs of their insidious designs. One of them
snatched some paper from the Endeavour’s people who were trading with
them, and brandishing his patoo patoo, put himself in a threatening
posture; upon which it was judged expedient to fire some small shot at
him, which wounded him in the knee; this step put an end to the
correspondence with regard to trade; but Tupia still continued
conversing with them, and making many inquiries concerning the
curiosities of New Zealand; he also asked them, if they had ever before
seen a ship of the magnitude of the Endeavour; to which they replied,
they had never seen such a vessel, nor ever heard that one had been upon
the coast, though Tasman certainly touched here, which was only fifteen
miles south of Murderer’s bay. There is great plenty of fish in all the
coves of this bay; among others here are cuttle fish, large breams,
small grey breams, small and large baracootas, flying gurnards, horse
mackrel, dog fish, soles, dabs, mullets, drums, scorpenas, or rock fish,
cole fish, shags, chimeras, &c. The inhabitants catch their fish as
follows; their net is cylindrical, extended by several hoops at the
bottom, and contracted at the top; the fish going in to feed upon what
is put in the net, are caught in great abundance; there are also birds
of various kinds, and in great numbers, particularly parrots, wood
pigeons, water hens, hawks, and many different singing birds. An herb, a
species of _Philadelphus_, was used here instead of tea; and a plant,
called Teegoomme, resembling rug cloaks, served the natives for
garments. The environs of the cove where the Endeavour lay is covered
entirely with wood, and the supple jacks are so numerous, that it is
with difficulty passengers can pursue their way; here is a numerous
sand-fly that is very disagreeable. The tops of many of the hills are
covered with fern. The air of the country is very moist, and has some
qualities that promote putrefaction, as birds that had been shot but a
few hours were found with maggots in them. The women who accompanied the
men in the canoes wore a head-dress, which the gentlemen had no where
met with before. It was composed of black feathers, tied in a bunch on
the top of the head, which greatly increased its height. The manner of
their disposing of their dead is very different to what is practised in
the South-sea islands, they tie a large stone to the body, and throw it
into the sea: the gentlemen saw the body of a woman which had been
disposed of this way, but which by some accident had disengaged itself
from the stone, floating upon the water. The Captain, Mr. Banks, and the
Doctor visited another cove, about two miles from the ship. There was a
family of Indians who were greatly alarmed at the approach of the
gentlemen, all running away except one; but upon Tupia’s conversing with
him the others returned. They found, by the provisions of this family,
that they were cannibals, here being several human bones that had been
lately dressed and picked; and it appeared, that a short time before,
six of their enemies having fallen into their hands, they had killed
four and eaten them, and that the other two were drowned in endeavouring
to make their escape. They made no secret of this abominable custom, but
answered Tupia, who was desired to ascertain the fact, with great
composure, that his conjectures were just, that they were the bones of a
man, and testified by signs, that they thought human flesh delicious
food. Upon being asked, why they had not eaten the body of the woman
that had been seen floating upon the water? They replied, she had died
of a disorder, and that moreover she was related to them, and they never
ate any but their enemies. Upon Mr. Banks’s still testifying some doubts
concerning the fact, one of the Indians drew the bone of a man’s arm
through his mouth, and this gentleman had the curiosity to bring it away
with him. There was a woman in this family whose arms and legs were cut
in a shocking manner, and it appeared she had thus wounded herself,
because her husband had lately been killed and eaten by the enemy.
Some of the Indians brought four skulls one day to sell, which they
rated at a very high price. The brains had been taken out, and probably
eaten, but the scalp and hair remained. They seemed to have been dried
by fire, in order to preserve them from putrefaction. The gentlemen
likewise saw the bail of a canoe, which was made of a human skull. In a
word, their ideas were so horrid and brutal, that they seemed to pride
themselves upon their cruelty and barbarity, and took a peculiar
pleasure in shewing the manner in which they killed their enemies, it
being considered as very meritorious to be expert at this destruction.
The method used was to knock them down with their patoo patoos, and then
rip up their bellies.
An amazing number of birds usually began their melody about two o’clock
in the morning, and serenaded the gentlemen till the time of their
rising. This harmony was very agreeable, as the ship lay at a convenient
distance from the shore, to hear it. These feathered choiristers, like
the English nightingales, never sing in the day time.
On the 17th, the ship was visited by a canoe from the hippah, or
village; it contained, among others, the aged Indian, of superior
distinction, who had first visited the English upon their arrival. In a
conference which Tupia had with him, he testified his apprehensions,
that their enemies would very soon visit them, and repay the compliment,
for killing and eating the four men.
On the 18th they received no visit from the Indians, but going out in
the pinnace to inspect the bay, they saw a single man in a canoe,
fishing in the manner already described. It was remarkable, that this
man did not pay the least attention to the people in the pinnace, but
continued to pursue his employment even when they came along-side of
him, without once looking at them. Some of the Endeavour’s people being
on shore found three human hip bones, close to an oven: these were
brought on board, as well as the hair of a man’s head, which was found
in a tree. The next day a forge was set up to repair the iron work, and
some Indians visited the ship with plenty of fish, which they bartered
very fairly for nails.
On the 20th, Mr. Banks purchased of the old Indian a man’s head, which
he seemed very unwilling to part with; the skull had been fractured by a
blow, and the brains were extracted, and like the others it was
preserved from putrefaction. From the care with which they kept these
skulls, and the reluctance with which they bartered any, it was imagined
they were considered as trophies of war, and testimonials of their
valour. In this day’s excursion they did not meet with a single native;
the ground on every side was quite uncultivated; but they discovered a
very good harbour. The succeeding day the ship’s company were allowed to
go on shore for their amusement, and the gentlemen employed themselves
in fishing, in which they were very successful. Some of the company in
their excursion met with fortifications that had not the advantage of an
elevated situation, but were surrounded by two or three wide ditches,
with a draw-bridge, which, tho’ simple in its structure, is capable of
answering every purpose against the arms of the natives. Within these
ditches is a fence, made with stakes, fixed in the earth. A decisive
conquest or victory over the besieged occasions an entire depopulation
of that district, as the vanquished, not only those who are killed, but
the prisoners likewise are devoured by the victors. From what has been
related by such unquestionable authority, there can remain no doubt with
the unprejudiced reader, that the inhabitants of this part of the globe
are cannibals. There are, indeed, some closet travellers, who treat
every thing as visionary, that they have not been eye-witnesses of, and
therefore disbelieve all they read, related by real travellers, that
does not square with their own notions and ideas; but as it may be
impossible to convince these sceptical readers, we shall leave them to
amuse themselves with their doubts and objections.
[Illustration: _View of an Arched Rock on the Coast of New Zealand,
with a place of Retreat on the Top of it._]
The 22d was employed by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander in collecting of
plants, whilst Captain Cook made some observations on the main land on
the south-east side of the inlet, which consisted of a chain of high
hills, and formed part of the south-west side of the streight; the
opposite side extended far to the east. He also discovered a village,
and many houses that had been deserted, and another village that
appeared to be inhabited. There were many small islands round the coast
that seemed entirely barren, and what few inhabitants were upon them
then lived principally upon fish. On the 24th they visited a hippah,
which was situated on a very high rock, hollow underneath, forming a
fine natural arch, one side of which joined to the land, and the other
rose out of the sea. The inhabitants received the gentlemen with great
civility, and very readily shewed them every thing that was curious.
This hippah was partly surrounded with a pallisade, and it had a
fighting stage like that already described. Here they met with a cross
resembling a crucifix, which was ornamented with feathers, and which was
erected as a monument for a deceased person; but they could not learn
how his body was disposed of. From a conversation that Tupia had with
these people, a discovery was made, that an officer being in a boat near
this village, and some canoes coming off made him imagine they had
hostile designs, and he fired upon them with ball, which made them
retire with much precipitation, but they could not effect their retreat
before one of them was wounded. What made this rash action the more to
be lamented was, that the Indians afterwards gave every possible
assurance that their intentions, upon this occasion, were entirely
friendly.
On the 25th the Captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander went on shore to
shoot, when they met with a numerous family, who were among the creeks
catching fish: they behaved very civilly, and received some trifling
presents from the gentlemen. The next day they went to take a view of
the streight, that passes between the eastern and western seas: they
accordingly attained the summit of a hill, but it being cloudy weather,
they could not see at any considerable distance. Here, however, they
erected a pile, leaving in it musket balls, small shot, beads, &c. as a
testimonial of this place having been visited by Europeans. Upon their
return they met with another Indian family, who behaved to them very
respectfully, and assisted in procuring them water. They also visited
another hippah upon a rock that was almost inaccessible; it consisted of
about ninety houses, and had a fighting stage. The gentlemen made the
inhabitants some small presents, and they in return furnished them with
dried fish.
The ship’s company were, on the 27th and 28th, engaged in making
necessary repairs, and getting her ready for sea. The next day they were
visited by Topoa, their old friend, and some other Indians. They said,
that the man who had received a wound from the officer, near the hippah,
was dead; but this assertion proved afterwards groundless. The Doctor
and Mr. Banks often went on shore whilst the ship was preparing for sea,
and made several observations upon the coast to the north-west: they
perceived an island, at about ten leagues distance, between which and
the main there were several smaller islands. The Captain also went on
shore, and erected another pyramid of stones, in which he put some
bullets, beads, &c. as before, with the addition of a piece of silver
coin, and placed part of an old pendant on the top, to distinguish it.
Some of the people who had been sent out to gather celery, met with
several of the natives, among whom were some women, whose husbands had
lately fallen into the hands of the enemy, and they were cutting many
parts of their body in the most shocking manner with sharp stones, in
testimony of their excessive grief. What made this ceremony appear
ridiculous as well as shocking, was, that the male Indians, who were
with them, paid not the least attention to it, but with the greatest
unconcern imaginable, employed themselves in repairing some empty huts
upon the spot.