large bay, and discovered another party of the natives standing at the
end of it, armed in the same manner as those they had already seen. The
boat’s crew now rowed towards the shore, and began to make preparations
for landing, upon which a canoe, with some of the natives on board, came
off towards them; they ordered Tupia to acquaint these people, that they
did not intend doing them any injury, but wanted to traffick with them
with nails, which they shewed them; this information encouraged them to
come along-side the boat, and they accepted of some nails, which were
given them with much apparent pleasure and satisfaction; it soon
appeared, however, to be nothing more than dissimulation; for, in a few
minutes, several of them unexpectedly boarded the boat, with an
intention of dragging her on shore; some musquets were immediately
discharged over their heads, which had the desired effect, all of them
leaping directly into the sea; and as soon as they reached the canoe,
they put back to the shore as fast as they could paddle, where a vast
concourse of their countrymen were assembled to receive them. They were
followed to the shore by the people in the boat, who found the surf so
violent, that they did not think it safe to attempt landing. They
therefore coasted along the shore, in hopes of finding a place where
they might land with less danger; presently after the canoe got on
shore, a man with a lance in his hand ran along opposite to the boat,
flourishing his weapon, and calling out with a shrill voice, which, upon
enquiry of Tupia, they were informed was a mark of defiance.
Not being able to find a more convenient landing place, they returned,
with a design of attempting it at the place where the canoe went on
shore: as they were going back, the same mode of defiance was repeated
by another warrior of a more formidable appearance than the first;
having a high cap on, made of the tail feathers of a bird, and his body
painted with streaks of a variety of colours. When this man retired,
another advanced in years, with a grave and sedate countenance, made his
appearance upon the beach, and asked them several questions, such as
from whence they came, whither they were bound, and who they were. Tupia
having answered these questions, and repeated his assurances, that our
intentions were amicable, they appeared to be somewhat pacified. The
people in the boat now proposed going on shore, to trade with them for
such articles as they chose to dispose of, if they would quit their
weapons; but they would not agree to this proposal on any other terms,
than the English leaving their musquets behind them in the boat; with
this, however, prudence would not permit them to comply, especially as
they had so lately experienced the dissembling nature of these people.
They therefore gave over all hopes of establishing a friendly
intercourse with them, and returned to the ship. And as neither the bay
which the boat entered, nor any other part of the island afforded either
harbour or anchorage, the Captain did not think it worth while to
attempt a second landing.
The people of this island are very tall, well proportioned, and have
long hair, which, like the inhabitants of the other islands, they tie in
a bunch on the top of their head; they are likewise tataowed on
different parts of their bodies, but not on their posteriors.
This island does not shoot up into high peaks, like the others which
they visited, but is more level and uniform, and divided into small
hillocks, some of which are covered with groves of trees; they saw no
bread-fruit, and not many cocoa-nut trees, but great numbers of the tree
called Etoa, were planted all along the shore.
Their cloth, as well as the manner of wearing it, differed in many
respects from any they had met with; all that they saw was died yellow,
and painted on the outside with a variety of colours. Their habit
consisted only of one piece with a hole made in the middle of it, thro’
which they put their head; it reaches as low as their knees, and is tied
close round their bodies with a kind of yellow sash; some of them wear
caps of the same kind as that already mentioned, and others bind their
heads with a piece of cloth resembling a turban.
On Tuesday, the 15th of August, they sailed from this island to the
Southward, with a fine breeze from the north, and clear pleasant
weather; and on the 16th it being rather hazy, they were deceived by an
appearance like several high peaks of land, for which they bore away,
but the weather clearing up, convinced them of their mistake, and they
resumed their course to the south.
On Friday the 25th, they celebrated the anniversary of their leaving
England, from whence they had now been absent one year: a large Cheshire
cheese, which had been carefully preserved for that purpose, was brought
out, and a barrel of porter tapped, which proved to be as good as any
they had ever drank in England. On the 29th John Raden, the Boatswain’s
mate, died; this man’s death was occasioned by drinking too freely of
some rum which was given him by the Boatswain. On the 30th, about four
o’clock in the morning, they saw a large comet about 60 degrees above
the horizon.
On Thursday the 7th of October, they discovered land at west by north,
and in the afternoon, of the next day, they came to an anchor opposite
the mouth of a little river about a mile and a half from the shore. The
Captain, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and some other gentlemen,
accompanied by a party of marines, went on shore in the evening, in the
pinnace and yawl.
Having left the pinnace at the entrance of the river, Captain Cook, Mr.
Banks, &c. proceeded a little farther up, when they landed, and leaving
the yawl to the care of some of their boys, went up to a few small
houses which they saw at a little distance. Taking the advantage of
their absence from the boat, some of the natives, who had concealed
themselves behind the bushes, suddenly rushed out, and ran towards it,
brandishing the long wooden lances which they had in their hands in a
threatening manner. The boys perceiving them, instantly dropt down the
stream, but were very closely pursued by the Indians; the Cockswain of
the pinnace therefore fired a musquetoon over their heads, which did not
seem to intimidate them, as they still continued their pursuit; he then
fired a second time over their heads, but with no better effect; alarmed
at the situation of the boat, as they were now got near enough to
discharge their lances at it, the Cockswain levelled his piece at them,
and shot one man dead on the spot. Struck with astonishment at the fall
of their companion, the others stood motionless for some time, but as
soon as they recovered from their fright, retreated to the woods with
the utmost precipitation. The report of the gun soon brought the
advanced party back to the boats, and both the pinnace and yawl
immediately returned to the ship.
On Monday the 9th in the morning, a great number of the natives were
seen near the place where the gentlemen in the yawl had landed the
preceding evening, and the greatest part of them appeared to be unarmed.
The long-boat, pinnace and yawl, being ordered out, and manned with
marines and sailors, Captain Cook, together with Mr. Banks, the rest of
the gentlemen and Tupia went on shore, and landed on the opposite side
of the river, over against several Indians who were sitting on the
ground; as soon as the gentlemen began to land, they immediately started
up, each producing either a long pike, or a kind of truncheon made of
stone, with a string through the handle of it, which they twisted round
their wrist. Tupia was ordered to speak to them in his language; and the
gentlemen were agreeably surprized to find that he was well understood,
the natives speaking the Otaheitean language, only in a different
dialect. Their intentions at first appeared to be very hostile,
brandishing their weapons in the usual threatening manner; upon which a
musquet was fired at some distance from them, at the effect of which the
ball happening to strike the water, they appeared rather terrified, and
desisted from their menaces. The marines being drawn up, the Captain,
with four or five of the gentlemen and Tupia, advanced nearer to the
side of the river; Tupia again spoke to them, and informed them, that
they wanted to traffick with them for provisions. They readily consented
to trade, and requested the English gentlemen to cross the river and
come over to them; which was agreed to, upon condition that the natives
would quit their weapons; but this the most solemn assurances of
friendship could not prevail on them to comply with. Not thinking it
prudent therefore to cross the river, as they would not be persuaded to
lay by their arms, the gentlemen in their turn intreated the Indians to
come over to them, which after some time they prevailed on one of them
to do; he was presently followed by several others, bringing their
weapons with them. They did not appear to set any great value on the
beads, iron, &c. which was presented to them, nor would they give any
thing in return, but proposed to exchange their weapons for those
belonging to the English, which being consequently objected to, they
endeavoured several times to snatch them out of their hands. But as the
gentlemen were on their guard, from the information given them by Tupia
that they were still their enemies, their attempts to seize the arms
were repeatedly frustrated, and Tupia, by the direction of the
gentlemen, gave them notice, that any further offer of violence would be
punished with instant death. One of them had, nevertheless, the audacity
to snatch Mr. Green’s hanger, and retiring a few paces, flourished it
over his head; he, however, paid for this temerity with his life, Mr.
Monkhouse firing at him with a musquet loaded with ball; and that
gentleman afterwards, with some difficulty, recovered the hanger, one of
the Indians endeavouring to seize it.
This behaviour of the natives, added to the want of fresh water, induced
Captain Cook to continue his course round the head of the bay. He was
still in hopes of getting some of the Indians on board, and by presents,
added to civil usage, convey through them a favourable idea of the
English to their fellow countrymen; and thereby settle a good
correspondence with them. Soon after an event occured, though attended
with disagreeable circumstances, that promised to facilitate this
design. Two canoes appeared making towards land, and Captain Cook
proposed intercepting them with his boats. One of them got clear off,
but the Indians in the other finding it impossible to escape the boats,
began to attack them with their paddles: this compelled the Endeavour’s
people to fire upon them, when four of the Indians were killed, and the
other three, who were youths, jumped into the water, and endeavoured to
swim to shore: they were however taken up and brought on board. They
were at first greatly terrified, thinking they should be killed; but
Tupia, by repeated assurances of friendship, removed their fears, and
they afterwards eat very heartily of the ship’s provisions. When they
retired to rest, in the evening, they appeared perfectly easy in their
minds, and slept very quietly for some hours, but in the middle of the
night their fears again returned, and they appeared in great agitation,
frequently making loud and dismal groans. After some time, however, the
friendly promises and kind caresses of Tupia again prevailed over their
fears, and they became so calm and resigned as to sing a song, the tune
of which was solemn and slow, and, at the dead of night, when an
universal silence prevailed throughout the ship, had an awful and
pleasing effect. The next morning, after they were dressed and
ornamented, according to the mode of their country, with necklaces and
bracelets, Captain Cook proposed setting them on shore, that they might
give a favourable report to their countrymen of the reception they had
met with. They testified much satisfaction when told they were going to
be released: but seemed under great apprehensions of danger, at finding
the boat approach Captain Cook’s first landing-place, intimating, that
the inhabitants here were their foes, and that they always killed and
ate their enemies. The Captain, nevertheless, judged it expedient to
land near the same spot, which he accordingly did with Mr. Banks, Dr.
Solander and Tupia, resolving at the same time to protect the youths
from any injury that might be offered them. The gentlemen had not been
long on shore before the boys left them, but on seeing two large parties
of the Indians advancing hastily towards them, they returned, and again
put themselves under their protection. As the Indians drew nearer, one
of the boys discovered his uncle amongst them, and a conversation took
place between them across the river, in which the lad gave a very just
account of the hospitality he had met with, and took great pains to
display their cloaths and finery. Soon after the uncle swam across the
river, bringing with him a green bow, as a token of friendship, which
was received as such, and several presents were made him. The body of
the Indian, who was shot the day before, lay in the same place where he
fell: one of the boys had covered it with part of his cloaths; and after
the gentlemen had retired, the Indian performed a kind of ceremony over
it, by throwing a green branch towards it, and the body was afterwards
carried in a raft across the river. Notwithstanding the presence of the
uncle of one of the boys, all three of them, by their own desire,
returned to the ship, but as the Captain intended sailing the next
morning, he sent them on shore again in the evening, though much against
their inclination; the names of these boys were Taahourange, Koikerange
and Maragovete. They informed Captain Cook, that there was a particular
kind of deer upon the island, likewise taro, eapes, romara, yams, a kind
of long pepper, bald coote, and black birds.
On the 11th Captain Cook set sail, in hopes of finding a better
anchoring place, after giving this bay (called by the natives Toaneora)
the name of _Poverty Bay_; and the south-west point he called _Young
Nick’s Head_, on account of its being first perceived by a lad on board
named Nicholas Young. They were becalmed in the afternoon, and several
canoes came off from the shore with Indians, who received many presents,
and afterwards bartered even their cloaths, and some of their paddles,
so eager were they of being possessed of as many European commodities as
possible. A single tree formed the bottom of their canoes, and the upper
part consisted of two planks sewed together: they sat on thwarts; their
paddles were painted red, representing many uncommon figures, and were
curiously wrought.
They were armed with bludgeons made of wood, and of the bone of a large
animal; they called them _Patoo, Patoo_, and they were well contrived
for close fighting.
After they had finished their traffic, they set off in such a hurry,
that they forgot three of their companions, who remained on board all
night.
They testified their fears and apprehensions, notwithstanding Tupia took
great pains to convince them they were in no danger; and about seven the
next morning a canoe came off, with four Indians on board. It was at
first with difficulty the Indians in the ship could prevail on those in
the canoe to come near them; and it was not till after the former had
assured them that the English did not eat men, that they came along-side
the Endeavour. The Chief came on board, whose face was tataowed, with a
remarkable patoo patoo in his hand; and in this canoe the three Indians
left the ship. Captain Cook gave the name of _Cape Table_ to a point of
land about seven leagues to the south of Poverty Bay, its figure greatly
resembling a table; and the island, called by the natives _Teabowry_, he
named _Portland Island_, it being very similar to that of the same name
in the British Channel. It is joined to the main by a chain of rocks,
near a mile in length, partly above water. There are several shoals,
called shambles, about three miles to the north-east of Portland, one of
which the Endeavour narrowly escaped; there is, however, a passage
between them with 20 fathom water. Some parts of Portland Island, as
well as the Main, were cultivated; and pumice-stone in great quantities
lying along the shore, within the bay, indicated that there is a volcano
in the island. High pailings upon the ridges of hills were also visible
in two places, which were judged to be designed for religious purposes.
On the 12th several Indians came off in a canoe; they were disfigured in
a strange manner, danced and sung, and appeared at times to be peaceably
inclined, and at others to menace hostilities; but, notwithstanding
Tupia strongly invited them to come on board, none of them would quit
the canoe. Whilst the Endeavour was getting clear of the shambles, five
canoes full of Indians came off, and seemed to threaten the people on
board, by brandishing their lances, and other hostile gestures; a four
pounder, loaded with grape shot, was therefore ordered to be fired, but
not pointed at them. This had the desired effect, and made them drop
a-stern. Two more canoes came off, whilst the Endeavour lay at anchor;
but the Indians on board behaved very peaceably and quiet, and received
several presents, but would not come on board.
On Friday the 13th, in the morning, they made for an inlet, but finding
it not sheltered they stood out again, and were chaced by a canoe,
filled with Indians, but the Endeavour out-sailed them. She pursued her
course round the bay, but did not find an opening.
The next morning they had a view of the inland country; it was
mountainous, and covered with snow in the interior parts, but the land
towards the sea was flat and uncultivated, and in may places there were
groves of high trees. Nine canoes full of Indians came from the shore,
and five of them, after having consulted together, pursued the
Endeavour, apparently with an hostile design. Tupia was desired to
acquaint them that immediate destruction would ensue, if they persevered
in their attempts; but words had no influence, and a four pounder, with
grape shot, was fired, to give them some notion of the arms of their
opponents. They were terrified at this kind of reasoning, and paddled
away faster than they came. Tupia then hailed the fugitives, and
acquainted them, that if they came in a peaceable manner, and left their
arms behind, no annoyance would be offered them: one of the canoes
submitting to these terms, came along side the ship, and received many
presents; but the other canoes returning, and persisting in the same
menacing behaviour, interrupted this friendly intercourse.
The following day, Sunday the 15th, they were visited by some fishing
boats, the people in which conducted themselves in an amicable manner;
though the fish which they had on board had been caught so long that
they were not eatable, Captain Cook purchased them, merely for the sake
of promoting a traffick with the natives. In the afternoon a large
canoe, with a number of armed Indians, came up, and one of them who was
remarkably cloathed, with a black skin, found means to defraud the
Captain of a piece of red baize, under pretence of bartering the skin he
had on for it. As soon as he had got the baize into his possession,
instead of giving the skin in return agreeable to his bargain, he rolled
them up together, and ordered the canoe to put off from the ship,
turning a deaf ear to the repeated remonstrances of the Captain against
his unjust behaviour. After a short time this canoe, together with the
fishing boats which had put off at the same time, came back to the ship,
and trade was again begun. During this second traffick with the Indians,
one of them unexpectedly seized Tupia’s little boy Tayota, and pulling
him into his canoe instantly put her off, and paddled away with the
utmost speed; several musquets were immediately discharged at the people
in the canoe, and one of them receiving a wound they all let go the boy,
who before was held down in the bottom of the canoe. Tayota taking the
advantage of their consternation, immediately jumped into the sea, and
swam back towards the Endeavour, he was taken on board, without having
received any harm; but his strength was so much exhausted with the
weight of his cloaths, that it was with great difficulty he reached the
ship. In consequence of this attempt to carry off Tayota, Captain Cook
called the Cape off which it happened _Cape Kidnappers_, lying in
latitude 39 deg. 43 min. and longitude 182 deg. 24 min. west, and is
very distinguishable by high cliffs and white rocks, that surround it.
Its distance from Portland Island is about 13 leagues, forming the south
point of a bay, which the Captain named _Hawke’s Bay_, in honour of Sir
Edward, who then presided at the admiralty board.
As every circumstance that tends to elucidate the manners and customs of
these people must attract the attention of the curious reader, we cannot
omit Tayota’s behaviour upon recovering from his fright, occasioned by
his being kidnapped. He produced a fish, and acquainted Tupia, that he
designed to make an offering of it to his God, or Eatua, as a
testimonial of his gratitude for his deliverance. Tupia approved of his
intention, and by his direction the fish was cast into the sea. This is
an evident proof, that even these unenlightened savages, by the mere
impulse of nature, believe in the existence of a particular providence.
The Endeavour now passed a small island, white and high, supposed to be
inhabited only by fishermen, as it appeared quite barren, and was named
_Bare Island_. On the 17th Captain Cook gave the name of Cape _Turn
Again_ to a head-land, in latitude 40 deg. 34 min. S. longitude, 182
deg. 55 min. west, because the Endeavour here turned again. Before the
Endeavour touched at New Zealand, it was not certainly known whether it
was an island, or part of the continent, wherefore the lords of the
admiralty had, by their instructions, directed Captain Cook to sail
along the coasts as far as 40 degrees south latitude, and from thence,
if the land appeared to extend farther, to return again to the
northward. Agreeable to these instructions, the Captain being opposite
to Cape _Turn Again_, changed his course from south to north; and the
wind having likewise veered to the south, he returned nearly in his
former track, sailing along the coast. This Cape is remarkable for a
stratum of clay of a bright brown colour; its prominence gradually
diminishes towards the north-side, but to the south its descent is not
so regular.
The land between this Cape and Kidnapper’s Bay is unequal, and resembles
the high downs of England. There appeared numerous inhabitants, and
several villages. Wednesday the 18th the Endeavour came a-breast of a
peninsula in Portland Island, named _Terakako_, when a canoe, with five
Indians, came up to the ship. Two Chiefs who were in this canoe came on
board, where they remained all night, and were treated with great
civility. One of the Chiefs was a remarkable comely man, and his
countenance was open and prepossessing. Their curiosity was uncommon,
and their acknowledgments, for the trifling presents they received, were
extremely grateful. The Chiefs would neither eat nor drink, but the
servants made up for their masters abstinence, by their voracious
appetites. The three boys had given these natives an account of the
hospitality and liberality of the English, which had prevailed upon them
to pay this visit.
Thursday the 19th the Endeavour passed a remarkable head land, which
Captain Cook named _Gable End Foreland_. It is distinguished by a rock,
in the shape of a church spire, which is very near it. Here three canoes
came up, and one Indian came on board; he received some small presents,
and retired to his companions. He wore a new garment of white silky
flax, with a border of black, red and white.
Many of the Indians had pieces of green-stone round their necks, by way
of necklaces; they were transparent, like an emerald, and appeared, on
examination, to be a species of Nephritic-stone, of which all their
ornaments of this kind consisted. Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen
obtained several pieces of it.
The dialect of these Indians was not so guttural as that of the others,
and they spoke the most like the inhabitants of Otaheite. The
physiognomy of some was agreeable, their noses being rather prominent
than flat.