hopes that some of the principal Indians might be present, but most of
them returned home before the time. However, Tubora Tumaida, and his
wife Tomio, were present; they behaved with great decency, but without
the least apparent curiosity. They made no enquiries with respect to the
ceremonies, and their brethren were as little inquisitive upon their
return. This evening several of their people were witnesses to an
entertainment of a very extraordinary nature, which consisted of the
most indecent acts of lewdness. For example, a young fellow cohabited in
public with a girl about eleven or twelve years of age, without the
least sense of shame; and what is still more extraordinary, Oberea, with
several other females of the first rank, were present during the whole
time.
On Monday the 15th, Mr. Banks detected Tubora Tumaida in having stolen
some nails. Mr. Banks having a good opinion of this Chief, was willing
to put his fidelity to the test, and several temptations were thrown in
his way, among the rest a basket of nails, which proved irresistible. He
confessed the fact, and upon Mr. Banks’s insisting upon restitution, he
declared the nails were at Eparre; this occasioned high words, and at
length the Indian produced one of them. He was to have been forgiven
upon restoring the rest, but not having resolution to fulfil his
engagement, he fled with his furniture and family before night.
On the 17th, one of the natives who came in the morning before day-light
to steal some casks, it not being the first offence, the centinel
snapped his gun at him, but it missing fire he escaped.
On Wednesday 24, Tootahah having sent many messages to request a visit
from the Captain, declaring that he would acknowledge the compliment by
a present of some hogs. Mr. Hicks the first Lieutenant was sent, in
hopes of getting the hogs without the visit. He was received in a very
friendly manner at a place called Tettehah, five miles farther to the
westward, where Tootahah had taken up his residence. He brought away one
hog only, which had been produced immediately upon his arrival, with a
promise of receiving more the next morning; but, when morning came, he
was obliged to depart without them. Mr. Banks, on the 25th, seeing
Tubora and his wife Tomio at the tent, for the first time after he stole
the nails, endeavoured to persuade him to restore them, but in vain. He
was treated with great coolness during his short stay, and his departure
was very abrupt.
On the 27th of May, Tootahah being removed to a place called
_Atahourou_, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Captain Cook, and some others, set
out in the pinnace to pay him a visit; after making presents of a few
trifling articles, they were invited to stay the night. Mr. Banks having
accepted of a place in Oberea’s canoe, left his companions, in order to
retire to rest. Notwithstanding the care Oberea took of his cloaths, by
having them in her own custody, they were stolen with his pistols,
powder-horn, and many other things that were in his waist-coat pockets.
The alarm was given to Tootahah, who slept in the next canoe, and who
went with Oberea in search of the thief, leaving Mr. Banks with only his
breeches on, and his musquet uncharged. They soon returned, but without
success; Mr. Banks thought proper to put up with the loss for the
present, and a second time endeavour to sleep. But he had scarce
composed himself, before he heard some musick, and perceived lights at a
small distance from shore; this proved to be a concert, which they call
Heiva. Mr. Banks judged it then necessary to get up and try to find his
companions. As soon as he approached the lights, he found the hut, where
Mr. Cook and three of his associates lay, and began to relate his
melancholy tale; but instead of receiving much comfort from them, he was
told, that they had shared the same fate, having lost their stockings
and jackets. However, this did not prevent their hearing out the
concert, which consisted of drums, flutes, and several voices, after
which they retired to rest.
The next morning Mr. Banks got his musquet from Tupia, with whom he had
intrusted it, and some cloaths from Oberea; in which he made a whimsical
appearance. They then got together, and were joined by Dr. Solander, who
was the only one among them that had not been robbed, having slept at a
house about a mile distant. As to the others they were obliged to put up
with their loss; their cloaths, &c. having never been heard of
afterwards. They set out for the boat not very well pleased, carrying
with them only one hog, which had been intended for their supper the
night before.
In their return to the boat, they were greatly amused by seeing some
Indians swimming for their diversion, amidst a surf, which no European
boat could have lived in, or the best swimmer in Europe have saved
himself from drowning, had he by accident been exposed to its fury. This
extraordinary surf breaks upon the shore in a few places, where access
to the island is not guarded by a reef, and makes it very dreadful and
dangerous.
Some Indians from a neighbouring island, to which Captain Wallis gave
the name of DUKE OF YORK’S ISLAND, informed them of more than twenty
islands in the neighbourhood of Otaheite.
They now began to make necessary preparations for observing the Transit
of Venus, and, from the hints Mr. Cook had received from the Royal
Society, he sent out two parties to make observations from different
spots, that in case they failed at Otaheite, they might succeed
elsewhere; they employed themselves in preparing their instruments, and
instructing such gentlemen with the use of them, as were to go out. And
on Thursday the 1st of June, the next Saturday being the day of the
Transit, they sent the long boat to Eimayo, having on board Mr. Gore,
Mr. Monkhouse, and Mr. Sporing, a friend of Mr. Banks; each furnished
with necessary instruments by Mr. Green. Mr. Banks and several of the
Indians went out with this party. Others were dispatched to find out a
convenient spot, at such a distance from their principal station, as
might suit their purpose.
Those who went to Eimayo in the long boat, after rowing the best part of
the night, by the help of some Indians aboard a canoe, which they
hailed, found a proper situation for their Observatory upon a rock,
which rose out of the water about one hundred and forty yards from the
shore, where they fixed their tents, and prepared the apparatus for the
following day’s observation.
On Saturday the 3d, as soon as it was light, Mr. Banks left them to go
to the island for fresh provisions. As he was trading with the natives
who belonged to Tarrao, the King of the island, his majesty arrived with
his sister, whose name was Nuna, in order to pay him a visit. It being
customary among these people to be seated during their conferences, Mr.
Banks spread on the ground his Indian cloth turban, that he wore instead
of a hat, on which they all sat down. After this the royal present was
brought, consisting of a hog and a dog, some cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit,
&c. A messenger was dispatched by Mr. Banks for an adze, a shirt, and
some beads, and they were presented to his majesty, who received them
with great pleasure. Tubora Tumaida and Tomio, Indians who had gone with
Mr. Banks upon the expedition, came from the Observatory: Tomio, said to
be related to Tarrao, brought him a long nail, and a shirt for Nuna, by
way of presents. Mr. Banks returned to the Observatory with Tarrao,
Nuna, and three beautiful young women, their chief attendants. He shewed
them the Transit of Venus over the Sun, and informed them, that he and
his companions had come from their own country solely to view it in that
situation.
[Illustration: _M^r. Banks receiving a Visit from the King of Duke of
Yorks Island._]
The produce of this island, according to the inspection of Mr. Banks,
proved to be much the same as that of Otaheite, the people also
resembling those of that island, many of them he had seen upon it, who
were well acquainted with the value of the trading articles.
Both the parties which were sent out, made their observation with great
success. They nevertheless differed in the accounts of the times of the
contacts more than might have been imagined.
Mr. Green’s Account was as follows.
Hours Min. Sec.
The first external contact, or first
appearance of Venus on the Sun, was 9 25 4 Morning.
The first internal contact or total
immersion was 9 44 4 Morning.
The second internal contact, or
beginning of the immersion 3 14 8 Afternoon.
The second external contact, or total
immersion 3 32 10 Afternoon.
Latitude of the Observatory 17° 29′ 15″.
Longitude 149° 32′ 30″ W. of Greenwich.
While they were viewing the Transit of Venus, some of the ship’s company
broke into one of the store-rooms, and stole a quantity of spike-nails.
As the circulation of these nails might have been greatly detrimental to
them, strict search was made, and one of the thieves was detected. He
had only a few in his custody; but was however punished with two dozen
lashes.
The death of an old woman of some distinction gave them an opportunity
of observing the manner of the Indians disposing of their dead, whom
they never bury. The kind of bier, on which the corpse is deposited, has
already been described, and the bread-fruit, &c. placed as before, which
Tubora Tumaida informed Mr. Banks was deposited as an offering to their
Gods. A sort of stile was placed in the front of the square, where the
relations of the deceased stood to testify their sorrow; beneath the
awning were several pieces of cloth, on which were the tears and blood
of the mourners, for upon these occasions they wound themselves with a
shark’s tooth. At a small distance two temporary houses were erected, in
one of which some of the relations of the deceased constantly remained,
and in the other the chief mourner resided, who was dressed in a
peculiar manner, to perform a particular ceremony. After the corpse is
rotten, the bones are buried near the spot. It was afterwards
discovered, that these repositories of the dead were used also for
religious worship.
There having been a scarcity of bread-fruit for some days, an enquiry
was made of the cause, and the reasons the Indians gave was, that there
being a great crop, the fruit had been gathered to make a sort of sour
paste, which the natives call _Mahie_, which, after fermentation, will
keep a long time, and supply them in times of dearth.
The funeral ceremony, in honour of the old woman, was performed on the
10th by the chief mourner, and Mr. Banks was so desirous to be a
spectator, that he agreed to take a part in the performance of this
ceremony, being informed, that he could not be present on any other
condition. He accordingly went in the evening to the place where the
body was deposited, there he was met by the relations of the deceased,
and afterwards joined by several other persons. The chief mourner was
Tubora Tumaida; his dress was whimsical, though not altogether
ungrateful. Mr. Banks was obliged to quit his European dress, and he had
no other covering than a small piece of cloth, which was tied round his
middle; his body was then blacked with charcoal and water, as were the
bodies of several others, particularly some females, who were as little
covered as himself; the procession then began. The chief mourner uttered
some words, that were judged to be a prayer, when he approached the
body; and he repeated it as he came up to his own house. After this the
procession went on, by permission, towards the fort. It is usual for the
Indians to shun these processions as much as possible; they accordingly
ran into the woods in great haste, as soon at it came in view. From the
fort it proceeded along the shore. Having crossed the river, it entered
the woods, passing several houses, which became immediately uninhabited;
and, during the rest of the procession, which continued above half an
hour, not a single Indian was visible, Mr. Banks filled an office they
called _Nineveh_, and there were two others in the same character. When
none of the other natives were to be seen, they approached the chief
mourner, saying, _imatata_; then those who had assisted at the ceremony
bathed in the river, and resumed their customary dress.
Such was this uncommon ceremony, in which Mr. Banks performed a capital
part, and met with the applause of Tubora Tumaida, the chief mourner.
Complaint was made on Monday the 12th to the Captain, that the Indians
had lost some bows and arrows, and strings of plaited hair; the affair
was enquired into, and the fact being well attested, two dozen lashes
were inflicted upon each of the criminals.
The bows and arrows of the Indians have not hitherto been noticed; but
this day Tubora Tumaida brought his hither, occasioned by a challenge he
had received from Mr. Gore. The Indian Chief imagined it was a trial of
skill who could shoot the farthest; but Mr. Gore proposed shooting at a
mark. The mistake being soon discovered, the champions declined the
trial. The Indian, however, to display his skill, drew his bow, and sent
an arrow, unfeathered, as they all were, nearly the sixth part of a
mile. They shoot kneeling, and drop the bow the instant the arrow is
discharged.
In this morning’s excursion, Mr. Banks met several of the natives, who
were itinerant musicians, and the place of the evening’s rendezvous
being known, all the English gentlemen went thither to partake of the
diversion. Their instruments were flutes and drums, and a great number
of the Indians were got together upon the occasion. The drummers sung to
the music, and to the astonishment of Mr. Banks and the rest of his
companions they found, that they were the chief subject of the minstrels
lays. These songs must, therefore, have been extemporaneous, the rewards
whereof were such necessaries as they required.
An iron coal rake for the oven being stole in the night of the 14th, and
many other things having at different times been taken by the Indians,
the Captain judged it of some consequence, if possible, to put an end to
these practices, by making it their common interest to prevent it. He
had already given strict orders, that the centinels should not fire upon
them, even if they were detected in the fact. About twenty-seven of
their double canoes with sails were just come in with cargoes of fish,
which the Captain seized, and then gave notice, that unless the rake,
and all the other things, which had at different times been stolen, were
returned, the vessels should be burnt. The Captain had, indeed, no such
design, as will appear by the event. The menace produced no other effect
than the restitution of the rake, all the other things remaining in
their possession; at length the Captain thought proper to give up the
cargoes, as the innocent natives were in great distress for want of
them; and at last, to prevent confusion, from the difficulty of
ascertaining to whom the different lots belonged, he promised also to
release the canoes.
About this time another event had nearly involved the English in a
quarrel with the Indians. The Captain having sent a boat on shore to get
ballast, the officer not meeting immediately with what he wanted, began
to pull down one of their sepulchral buildings: this measure was
strenuously opposed by the Indians. Mr. Banks, having received
intelligence of the affair, repaired to the spot, and the matter was
soon amicably terminated, there being stones sufficient found elsewhere.
This was the only opposition they had, hitherto, made, and the only
personal insult received (besides the affair of the musket at the tent,
for which the Indian forfeited his life) was by Mr. Monkhouse, who
having pulled a flower within one of their burial inclosures, was struck
by an Indian; the gentleman laid hold of him, but he was rescued by two
more, who pulling Mr. Monkhouse’s hair forced him to quit his hold,
after which they all ran off.
On the 19th in the evening, soon after dark, while the canoes were
detained by the Captain, Oberea the Queen, and several of her
attendants, paid the gentlemen a visit; she came from Tootahah’s palace,
in a double canoe, and brought with her a hog, bread-fruit, and other
presents, among which was a dog; but none of the things that had been
stolen; those she pleaded had been taken away by her gallant Obadee, for
which she had beaten him. She did not, however, seem to think her story
deserved credit, but appeared at first much terrified, though she
surmounted her fears with great fortitude; and was desirous of sleeping
with her attendants in Mr. Bank’s tent; but this being refused, she was
obliged to pass the night in her canoe. The Captain declined accepting
of her presents, at which she seemed very sorrowful. Mr. Banks and the
rest of the gentlemen retired to bed, and a whole tribe of the Indians
would have slept in the bell-tent, but were not permitted.
The next morning the Queen returned to the fort, and Captain Cook having
altered his mind accepted of her presents. Two of her attendants were
very earnest in getting themselves husbands, in which they succeeded, by
means of the Surgeon and one of the Lieutenants: they seemed very
agreeable till bed-time, and determined to lie in Mr. Banks’s tent,
which they accordingly did, till the Surgeon having some words with one
of them Mr. Banks thrust her out, and she was followed by the rest,
except Otea Tea, who cried for some time, till he turned her out also.
This had like to have become a serious affair, a duel being talked of
between Mr. Banks and Mr. Monkhouse, but it was happily avoided. Dogs
are esteemed here more delicate eating than pork; as those bred to be
eaten taste no animal food, but live entirely upon vegetables; and the
experiment was tried. Tupia undertook to kill and dress him, which he
did, by making a hole in the ground and baking him. It was agreed by
every one to be a very good dish.
They were visited on the 21st at the fort by many of the natives, who
brought various kinds of presents, and among the rest Oamo, a Chief of
several districts on the island, whom they had never before seen, who
brought with him a hog. This Chief was treated with great respect by the
natives, and was accompanied by a boy, and a young woman. The boy was
carried upon a man’s back, though he was very able to walk. Oberea and
some other of the Indians went out of the fort to meet them, their heads
and bodies being first uncovered as low as the waist. This was
considered as a mark of respect, they had not noticed it before, but
judged it was usually shewn to persons of distinguished rank among them.
Oamo entered the tent, but the young woman, who was about sixteen, could
not be prevailed upon to accompany him, tho’ she seemed to combat with
her curiosity and inclination. Dr. Solander took the youth by the hand,
and conducted him in; but the natives without, who had prevented the
girl’s entrance, soon found means to get him out again.
The curiosity of Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen being excited from
these circumstances, they made enquiry, who these strangers were, and
were informed, that Oamo was Oberea’s husband, but that by mutual
consent they had been for a considerable time separated; and that the
youth and girl were their offspring. The boy was named _Terridiri_, and
was heir apparent to the sovereignty of the island; and he was to
espouse his sister as soon as he had attained the proper age. The
present sovereign being a minor, called OUTOU, and son of Whappai;
Whappai, Oamo, and Tootahah, were all brothers; Whappai was the senior,
and Oamo the next; wherefore, Whappai having no child but Outou,
Terridiri, son of Oamo, was heir to the sovereignty. To us it will
appear singular, that a boy should reign during the life of his father;
but in the island of Otaheite, a boy succeeds to his father’s authority
and title as soon as he is born; when a regent is elected, which office
usually falls upon the father, till the boy becomes of age: at this
time, however, the election had fallen upon his uncle Tootahah, on
account of his warlike exploits. Oamo was very inquisitive with respect
to the English, and by his questions he appeared a man of understanding
and penetration.
A woman called Teetee, who came from the west of the island, presented
to the Captain an elegant garment, of a bright yellow ground, bordered
with red, and in the middle of it were several crosses, which they had
probably learned from the French.
On the 23d in the morning, one of their hands being missing, they
enquired for him among the natives, and were told that he was at Eparre,
Tootahah’s residence in the wood; and one of the Indians offered to
fetch him back, which he did that evening. On his return he informed
them, that he had been taken from the fort, and carried to the top of
the bay, by three men, who having stripped him, forced him into a canoe,
and conducted him to Eparre, where he received some cloaths from
Tootahah, who endeavoured to prevail on him to continue there. They had
great reason to suppose this account true, for the natives were no
sooner acquainted with his return, than they left the fort with much
precipitation.
Monday June 26, early in the morning, the Captain set out in the
pinnace, accompanied by Mr. Banks, to circumnavigate the island. They
sailed to the eastward, and in the forenoon they went on shore, in a
part of the island under the government of Ahio, a young Chief, who had
often visited them at the tents. They also found here some other natives
of their acquaintance. They then proceeded together to the harbour,
wherein M. Bougainville lay when he visited this island, and were shewn
the ground on which he fixed his tent, and the watering-place. They also
met with _Orette_, a Chief, who was their particular friend, whose
brother went away with M. Bougainville.
Having taken a survey of this harbour, and a large bay near which it is
situated, they proposed going to the opposite side of the bay, but
Titubaola, who was their conductor, not only refused to accompany them,
but endeavoured to dissuade the Captain and Mr. Banks from going,
saying, “That country was inhabited by people who were not subjects to
Tootahah, and who would destroy them all.” This information did not,
however, prevent the execution of their design; and upon loading their
pieces with ball, Titubaola took courage to go with them; they rowed
till it was dark, when they reached a narrow neck of land, that divided
the island into two peninsulas, which are distinct governments. As they
were not yet got into the hostile part of the country, they agreed to
spend the night on shore, where they were provided with supper and
lodging by Ooratooa, the lady who paid her compliments to Mr. Banks in
so remarkable a manner at the fort.
In the morning they pursued their passage for the other government.