them came on board. From hence Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen
concluded, that their apprehensions were not intirely removed, more
especially as even Owhaw had forsaken them. The Captain, in consequence
of these disagreeable appearances, brought the ship nearer to shore, and
moored her so as to make her broad-side bear on the spot which had been
marked for erecting the fort. The Captain went on shore in the evening,
with some of the gentlemen, when the Indians assembled round them, and
they trafficked together in a friendly manner.
Mr. Banks had the misfortune of losing Mr. Buchan on the 17th.
The same day they received on board a visit from Tubora Tumaida and
Tootahah. As tokens of peace, they brought with them some plantain
branches, and would not risk themselves on board till these had been
received, being probably alarmed at the affair of the tent. They also
brought some bread-fruit and a hog ready dressed: in return for which
they received some nails.
The fort began to be erected on the 18th. Some of the company were
employed in throwing up intrenchments, whilst others were occupied in
cutting fascines and pickets, which the Indians of their own accord
chearfully assisted in bringing from the woods. Three sides of the fort
were fortified with intrenchments and pallisades; and on the other which
was flanked by a river, the water-casks being filled, were placed so as
to form a breast-work.
This day the natives brought down such quantities of bread-fruit and
cocoa-nuts, that it was necessary to reject them, and to intimate to
them, that the company would not want any for two days. Beads were
trafficked this day for every thing. Mr. Banks’s tent being got up, he,
for the first time, slept on shore. No Indian attempted to approach it
the whole night; however, a precaution had been taken to place proper
centinels about it.
Wednesday 19, Tubora Tumaida visited Mr. Banks at his tent, and brought
with him, besides his wife and family, the materials for erecting a
house, in the neighbourhood of the fort, where he designed to reside:
some time after he had reached the tent, he requested Mr. Banks to
accompany him back to the woods; on their arrival at a place where he
occasionally resided, he presented him with two garments, one of which
was of red cloth, and the other of very fine matting; in which, having
clothed Mr. Banks, he conducted him to the ship, and with his wife and
son staid to dinner: they had a dish served up, which was prepared by
one of Tubora Tumaida’s attendants, not unlike in taste to what in
England is called flummery; of this dish the natives seemed exceedingly
fond, but the English could not relish it. Tubora Tumaida had likewise
brought with him some food, which appeared like the flower of wheat;
this being mixed with cocoa-nut liquor, and some hot stones put into it,
was stirred about till it became a thick jelly; on tasting it, they
found it of an agreeable flavour, not very inferior to good blanc mange.
Without the lines a sort of market was established, which was tolerably
well supplied. Tubora Tumaida became Mr. Banks’s and the other
gentlemens frequent guest; he adopted their manners, and was the only
one of his countrymen who had attempted to use a knife and fork.
Mr. Monkhouse, the Surgeon, said he had seen, in his evening walk the
body of the man who had been shot at the tent. It was deposited in a
shed, close to the house where he had resided when alive, and others
were within ten yards of it. It was in length about fifteen feet, and
eleven in breadth, and the height was proportionable: the two sides and
one end were partly enclosed with a sort of wicker-work, the other end
was entirely open. The corps was deposited on a bier, the frame of which
was wood, with a matted bottom, supported by posts about five feet high.
The corps was covered with a matt, and over that a white cloth; by its
side lay a wooden mace, and towards the head two cocoa-nut shells:
towards the feet was a bunch of green leaves, and small dried boughs,
tied together and stuck in the ground, near which was a stone the size
of a cocoa-nut: here was also placed a young plantain-tree and a stone
axe. A great number of palm-nuts were hung in firings at the open end of
the shed; and the stem of a plantain-tree was stuck up without the shed;
upon this stem was placed a cocoa-nut shell filled with fresh water. At
the side of one of the posts, there hung a little bag with some roasted
pieces of bread-fruit. The natives did not seem pleased at his
approaching the body, their jealousy and uneasiness being very visibly
depicted in their countenances.
The flies on shore were so very tormenting, that they were obliged to
destroy them with musqueto nets and fly traps.
They had a specimen of the music of the country on the 22d; some of the
natives performing on flutes, which had only two stops; they were blown
like the German flute, but the performer blew with his nostril instead
of his mouth: several others sung, only one tune, to this instrument.
[Illustration: _A Musical Youth of the New Discovered Islands in the
Habit of his Profession._
_A Fly Fan_]
Some of the Indians brought the English axes to grind and repair, most
of which they had received from the Dolphin; but a French one occasioned
much speculation, and it at length appeared to have been left here by
Mr. de Bougainville.
On the 24th Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander made an excursion into the
country, which they found to be level and fertile for about two miles
along the shore to the eastward, after which the hills reached quite to
the water’s edge, and farther on they ran out into the sea. After
passing these hills, which continued about three miles, they discovered
a large plain, abounding with good houses, inhabited by people who
seemed to be in affluence. A very wide river issuing from a valley,
added greatly to the beauty of this place: they crossed this river, and
perceived the country to be again barren, which determined them to
return; but just as they had taken this resolution, they were offered
some refreshment by one of the natives, a man, as some authors describe
to be, mixed with many nations, but different from them all, his skin
being of a dead white, though some parts of his body were not so white
as others; his hair, eye-brows, and beard were as white as his skin. The
great joy of Tubora Tumaida and his women, who met them as they
returned, is not to be expressed.
On the 25th several of their knives were missing; upon which Mr. Banks,
who had lost his among the rest, accused Tubora Tumaida with having
stolen it, which caused him to be very unhappy, as he happened to be
innocent of the fact, Mr. Banks’s servant having mislaid it; and the
rest were produced in a rag by a native. The Indian was some time before
he would forget this accusation, the tears starting from his eyes, and
he made signs with the knife, that if he had ever been guilty of such an
action, as was imputed to him, he would suffer his throat to be cut.
However, in general, these people, from the highest to the lowest, are
the greatest thieves in the world.
On the 26th, six swivel guns were mounted upon the fort, which put the
natives into great consternation, and caused several fishermen, who
lived upon the point, to remove farther off, imagining they were to be
fired at in a few days.
The next day Tubora Tumaida, with a friend, a remarkable glutton, and
three of his women, dined at the fort; after which he set out for his
house in the wood. In a short time he returned in much agitation, to
acquaint Mr. Banks, that the ship’s butcher had threatened to cut his
wife’s throat, upon her refusing to sell him a stone hatchet, which he
had taken a fancy to, for a nail. It clearly appeared he had been
culpable, and he was flogged on board, in sight of several of the
Indians. As soon as the first stroke was given they interfered, and
earnestly intreated that he might be untied. This being refused, they
burst into tears, and shewed great concern.
On Friday 28, one of Tubora Tumaida’s female attendants, came down to
the fort in the greatest affliction, the tears gushing from her eyes,
and full of lamentation. Mr. Banks seeing her, insisted upon knowing the
cause; but instead of answering, she struck herself several times with a
shark’s tooth upon the head, till she caused a great effusion of blood;
while her distress was unnoticed by several other Indians, who continued
laughing and talking with the utmost unconcern. After this, she gathered
up some pieces of cloth, which she had thrown down to catch the blood,
and threw them into the sea, as if she wished to obliterate her absurd
behaviour. She then bathed herself in the river, and with remarkable
chearfulness returned to the tent, as if nothing extraordinary had
happened.
During the forenoon of this day, canoes were continually coming in, and
the tents at the fort were filled with people of both sexes. Mr.
Molineux, Master of the Endeavour, went on shore, and seeing a woman,
whose name was Oberea, he declared she was the person he judged to be
the queen of the island, when he came there on board the Dolphin in the
last voyage.
The eyes of every one were now fixed on her, who had made so
distinguished a figure, in the accounts that had been given by the first
discoverers of this island. The person of the queen Oberea was of a
large make, and tall; she was about forty years of age, her skin white;
her eyes had great expression and meaning in them; she had been
handsome, but her beauty was now upon the decline. She was soon
conducted to the ship, and went on board, accompanied with some of her
family. Many presents were made her, particularly a child’s doll, which
seemed the most to engross her attention. Captain Cook accompanied her
on shore; and as soon as they landed, she presented him with a hog, and
some plantains, which were carried to the fort in procession, Oberea and
the Captain bringing up the rear. They met Tootahah, who, though not
King, seemed to be at this time invested with a sovereign authority. He
immediately became jealous of the Queen’s having the doll; which made
them find it necessary to compliment him with one also. A doll now was
preferable to a hatchet, though it was not considered so long, as they
soon were looked upon as trifles of little or no value.
The ship’s provisions seemed to be very acceptable to the men, but the
women were shy of tasting any of them. They were solicited strongly,
this day, to dine with the gentlemen; but they refused, and chose to
partake of plantains with the servants; a mystery that could not be
explained.
On Saturday 29, in the forenoon, Mr. Banks paid a visit to Oberea, who
was still asleep under the awning of her canoe, whither he went with an
intention of calling her up. Upon entering her chamber, to his great
surprise, he found her in bed with a handsome young fellow, about five
and twenty; upon which he immediately retired with some precipitation,
not a little disconcerted at this discovery; but he was soon given to
understand, that such amours were by no means considered scandalous, and
that Obadie, the person found in bed with the queen, was by every one
known to have been selected by her as the object of her lascivious
hours. The queen soon got up and dressed herself to wait upon Mr. Banks.
After dressing him in a suit of fine cloth, they proceeded together to
the tents. Mr. Banks paid a visit in the evening to Tubora Tumaida, and
was greatly surprized to find him and his family all in tears; he in
vain attempted to discover the cause, and soon took leave of them. Upon
his return he was told by the officers, that Owhaw had foretold that the
guns would be fired in four days, and as this was the eve of the third
day, they were alarmed at the situation they judged themselves to be in.
In consequence of this intelligence they doubled the centries at the
fort, and the gentlemen slept under arms. Mr. Banks, about two in the
morning, went round the point, but finding every thing as he could wish,
he dropt all suspicions of the Indians having hostile intentions, and
dwelt quite secure, as the little fortification was now complete.
The next day, Sunday the 30th, Tomio came running to the tents, and
taking Mr. Banks by the arm, to whom they applied in all emergent cases,
told him that Tubora Tumaida was dying, owing to something which had
been given him to eat by his people, and prayed him to go instantly to
him. Accordingly Mr. Banks went, and found the Indian very sick. He was
told, that he had been vomiting, and had thrown up a leaf, which they
said contained some of the poison which he had taken. Upon examining the
leaf, Mr. Banks found it to be nothing more than tobacco, which the
Indian had begged of some of their people. He looked up to Mr. Banks,
while he was examining the leaf, as if he had not a moment to live. Mr.
Banks, now knowing his disorder, ordered him to drink of cocoa-nut milk,
which soon restored him to health, and he was as chearful as ever.
On the 1st of May Captain Cook produced an iron adze, made in imitation
of one of their stone ones, which had been brought home by Captain
Wallis, and shewed it to Tootahah, who took such a fancy to it, that
notwithstanding he was offered the choice of any of the things that were
in his chests, he snatched it up with the greatest eagerness, and would
accept of nothing else. The same day a Chief, who had dined on board a
few days before, accompanied by some of his women, who used to feed him,
came on board by himself, and when dinner was on table, the Captain
helped him to some victuals, thinking upon this occasion he would
condescend to feed himself; but he never attempted to eat, and had not
one of the servants fed him, he would certainly have gone without his
dinner.
In the afternoon they took the astronomical quadrant, with some other
instruments, on shore.
On Tuesday the 2d, having occasion to use the quadrant, to their great
astonishment and concern it was missing; this was the more
extraordinary, as a centinel had been posted the whole night within a
few yards of the tent in which it had been deposited; and it had never
been taken out of the case in which it was packed. Their own people were
at first suspected, imagining they might have mistaken the contents for
articles used in traffic. They searched the fort and the adjacent
places, and a considerable reward was offered, as the loss of this
instrument would have rendered it impossible for them to have made the
necessary observations respecting the Transit, one of the principal
objects of their voyage. After every fruitless search had been made, Mr.
Banks, accompanied by Mr. Green, and some other gentlemen, set out for
the woods, where he thought he might gain some intelligence of the
robbery, if it had been committed by the natives. In the course of their
journey they met Tubora Tumaida, with a few of the natives, who was made
by signs to understand, that some of his countrymen had stolen the
quadrant, and Mr. Banks insisted upon being conducted to the place where
it was concealed. Accordingly they proceeded together a few miles, and,
after some enquiry, Tubora Tumaida received information of the thief,
and that he was to be found at a place about four miles distant; as they
had no other arms but a brace of pistols, and the spot for which they
were destined was at so considerable a distance from the fort, they were
not without some apprehensions of danger. They accordingly dispatched
one of their company to Captain Cook, desiring him to forward another
party after them; having laid an embargo upon all the canoes in the bay;
a party accordingly set out, with the Captain at their head.
Mr. Banks and Mr. Green in the interim pursued their route, and at the
very place which had been mentioned were met by one of Tubora Tumaida’s
own people, with part of the quadrant; soon afterwards the box in which
it had been packed, containing the other parts of it, was recovered;
and, upon examination, though it had been taken to pieces, they had the
satisfaction to find it had received no material injury.
In the evening, when Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen, with Tubora
Tumaida, returned, they were very much surprized to find Tootahah
confined in the fort, the gate of which was surrounded by the natives,
who expressed the utmost dread and anxiety on the occasion, as they had
no other expectation but it was intended to put him to death.
Upon enquiry into this affair, it appeared that the Indians were so much
alarmed at Captain Cook’s going up into the country with a party of
armed men, that in the evening most of them forsook their habitations
near the fort; a canoe likewise attempted to leave the bay, which the
Lieutenant, who commanded on board the ship, and had been ordered not to
permit any canoe to go out, perceiving, dispatched a boat to detain her,
but she no sooner came near them than they jumped into the sea; among
this unfortunate number was Tootahah, who, being taken up, was sent by
the Lieutenant to the fort; and the commanding officer thought it his
duty to detain him.
He could not be persuaded that he was not to be put to death, till
Captain Cook gave orders for him to be conducted out of the fort. He was
received with great affection by the people, every one pressing forward
to embrace him.
On Wednesday the 3d, in the morning, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander attended
as usual to purchase provisions, but the Indians brought nothing to
market; nor could they procure any from some fishing-boats which came
a-breast of the tents, though they were in great want of cocoa-nuts and
bread fruit. Mr. Banks walked into the woods, and heard great complaints
from the people of the ill treatment of their Chief, who they said had
been beaten, and otherwise ill used, of which Mr. Banks declared he was
totally ignorant. The hogs which he had left as a present, were sent for
back by the Chief, which, probably, he was of opinion they had
ill-deserved. However, they would not send them till he came himself, by
which means they thought to procure a reconciliation, knowing that
absence would promote that coolness between them, to which the first
interview might put an end, especially as they were told, the Chief did
not intend coming to the fort for near a fortnight.
Their provisions now were extremely scarce, and the markets ill
supplied, the people resenting the ill usage their Chief had received.
The next day, with some difficulty, Mr. Banks obtained a few baskets of
bread-fruit from Tubora Tumaida in the woods, which were a very
seasonable relief. An axe and shirt were sent for this day by Tootahah,
in return for his two hogs which they promised to bring him the next
day. If they had not complied with this request, they could have
scarcely procured any provisions.
After his sending again early in the morning, on Friday 5, Mr. Banks and
Dr. Solander, with the Captain, set out in the pinnace, taking one of
Tootahah’s people with them, they soon reached Eparre, the place where
he dwelt, which was but a few miles to the west of the tents.
Upon their arrival, they found great numbers of people upon the shore
waiting for them. They were immediately conducted to the Chief, whilst
the people shouted round them, _Taio Tootahah_, “Tootahah is your
friend;” they found him sitting under a tree, and some old men standing
round him. As soon as he had made signs for them to sit down, he asked
for his axe, which Captain Cook presented to him, with a shirt and a
broad cloth garment, with which he seemed greatly pleased; and put the
garment on. After eating a mouthful together in the boat, they were
conducted to a large area, or court-yard, on one side of his house,
where an entertainment was provided for them, consisting of wrestling.
The Chief sat at the upper end of the area, with several of his
principal men on each side of him, by way of judges, from whom the
conquerors received applause.
Ten or twelve combatants entered the area, and after many simple
ceremonies of challenging each other, they engaged, endeavouring to
throw one another by dint of strength; then seizing hold of each other
by the thigh, the hand, the hair, or the cloaths, they grappled without
the least art, till one was thrown on his back; this conquest was
applauded by some words from the old men, and three huzzas. After one
engagement succeeded another, but if they could not throw each other
during the space of a minute, they parted either by consent, or the
intervention of their friends. Several women of rank were present; but
it was thought, they would not have attended this amusement, only in
compliment to the English gentlemen.
A man with a stick, who made way for them when they landed, officiated
here as master of the ceremonies, keeping order among the people.
When this entertainment was at an end, they were informed, that some
hogs and a quantity of bread-fruit were preparing for their dinner;
which intelligence was the more agreeable, as their appetites were at
this time exceedingly keen. But instead of dining either on shore or on
board of the boat, they had the mortification of going as far as the
ship by the desire of the Chief.
As soon as the Chief was known to be on board the ship, the people
brought plenty of bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other provisions to the
fort.
On Monday 8, early in the morning, Mr. Molineux, the Master, and Mr.
Green, set out in the pinnace to the eastward, in order to procure some
hogs or poultry; but after proceeding a considerable way, and seeing
many hogs and a turtle, they could not purchase either. They belonged to
Tootahah, and the people told them, that they could not sell them
without his consent; so absolute was the power of this man.
They were now obliged, for the first time, to bring out their nails to
purchase provisions; for one of the smallest size, they obtained near
twenty cocoa-nuts and some bread-fruit, so that they soon got great
plenty.
On Tuesday 9, in the forenoon, Oberea paid them a visit, accompanied by
her favourite Obadee; she presented them with a hog and some
bread-fruit.
The forge being now set up and frequently at work, became not only a new
subject of admiration to the Indians, but afforded the Captain an
additional opportunity of conferring obligations on them, by permitting
the smith, during his leisure hours, to convert the old iron, which they
were supposed to have procured from the Dolphin, into different kinds of
tools.
The natives, after repeated attempts, finding themselves incapable of
pronouncing the names of the English gentlemen, had recourse to new ones
formed from their own language, Mr. Cook was named Toote; Hicks, Hete;
Gore, Touara; Solander, Tolano; Banks, Opane; Green, Treene; and so on
for the greatest part of the ship’s crew.
As Mr. Banks was sitting in his boat, trading with them as usual, on
Friday the 12th, a very extraordinary ceremony was performed by some
ladies who were strangers, to whom the rest of the Indians giving way on
each side, and forming a passage, they advanced in procession towards
Mr. Banks, to whom they presented some parrots feathers, plantains, and
other plants. They then brought a large bundle of cloth, consisting of
nine pieces, which being divided into three parcels, one of the women,
who appeared to be the principal, stepping on one of the parcels, pulled
up all her cloaths as high as her waist, and then, with an air of
unaffected simplicity, turned round three times. This ceremony she
repeated in the same manner on the other two parcels of cloth, and the
whole being then presented to Mr. Banks, the ladies went and saluted
him; in return for which he made them such presents as he thought would
gratify them the most.
The next evening Mr. Banks was under the disagreeable necessity of
reprimanding, in very strong terms, Tubora Tumaida, for having the
insolence to snatch his gun from him, and firing it in the air; a thing
which surprised Mr. Banks greatly, as he imagined him totally ignorant
of the use of it. And as their safety in a great measure depended on
keeping them in that state, he told him, with threats, that his touching
his piece was the greatest of insults. The Indian made no reply, but set
off with his family to his house at Eparre. He being an useful man, Mr.
Banks, accompanied by Mr. Molineux, thought fit to go after him, and
they found him among a number of people, greatly dejected. However, as
Mr. Banks judiciously caused all animosity to cease, they brought him
back to supper; after which the Chief and his wife both slept in Mr.
Banks’s tent. One of the natives, not intimidated by their presence,
attempted that very evening to scale the walls of the fort, but was
prevented by the centinel. These Indians could not resist making
attempts to steal the iron and iron tools within the works.