appeared to be well acquainted with their use. Probably the spot on
which Mr. Banks and the Doctor met them, was not a fixed habitation;
their houses not being erected to stand any length of time, and they
were destitute of a boat or canoe. They did not seem to have any form of
government among them, nor did there appear any kind of subordination.
These people appeared upon the whole to be the out-casts of human
nature, whose lives were passed in wandering in a forlorn manner over
dreary wastes--whose only dwelling was a wretched hovel, such as has
been described, and their cloaths scarcely sufficient to prevent their
perishing with cold in the summer of this country, much less in the
extreme severity of winter; their only food was shell-fish, which must
soon be exhausted at any one spot; destitute of every convenience
arising from the rudest art, or even an implement to dress their food.
Such were these people, who nevertheless appeared content; so little
does refinement or luxury promote happiness.
They observed no quadruped animals except seals, sea lions and dogs. Mr.
Banks saw, from a hill, the impression of the foot-steps of a large
beast on the surface of a bog, but he could not determine of what kind
it was. This gentleman observed no land-birds larger than an English
black-bird, except hawks and vultures; there were however ducks, and
other water fowl in abundance; likewise shell-fish, muscles, clams and
limpets in great plenty.
It is remarkable, that in this country, though uncleared, there was no
species of hurtful or troublesome animals. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander
found a great variety of plants. The beach and the birch may be used for
timber. The scurvy-grass and wild celery, it is imagined, contain
antiscorbutic qualities; and may therefore be of service to the crews of
such ships as hereafter touch at this place. The former is found in
abundance near springs and in damp places, particularly at the
watering-place in the Bay of Good Success, and resembles the
cuckow-flower or lady’s-smock in England. The wild-celery resembles the
celery in our gardens, but the leaves are of a deeper green. It grows in
great plenty near the beach, and upon the land above the spring-tides;
and tastes like parsley mixed with celery. In the morning of Sunday,
January 22, Captain Cook having got in his wood and water, sailed out of
the bay, and steered his course through the streight.
The generality of writers, who have described the island of Terra del
Fuego, have represented it as covered with snow, and destitute of wood.
In this however they are evidently mistaken, and their error must have
arisen from having visited it in the winter season, when it possibly is
covered with snow. The crew of the Endeavour perceived trees when they
were at a considerable distance from the island, and on their nearer
approach, they found the sea coast and the sides of the hills clothed
with an agreeable verdure. The summit of the hills are barren, but the
vallies are rich, and a brook is to be found at the foot of almost every
hill; the water has a reddish tinge, but is not ill tasted, and was some
of the best Captain Cook took in during his whole voyage.
The streight of Le Maire is bounded on the west by Terra del Fuego, and
on the east by the west end of Staten Land, and is near five leagues in
length, and as many in breadth. The bay of Good Success is seated about
the middle of it on the side of Terra del Fuego, which presents itself
upon entering the streight from the northward; and the south head of it
may be distinguished by a land-mark, resembling a road from the sea to
the country. It affords good anchorage, and plenty of wood and water.
Staten Land did not appear to Captain Cook in the manner described in
Lord Anson’s Voyage; the horror and wildness with which it is there
depicted was not discernable to Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen; on
the contrary, the land was neither destitute of wood nor verdure, nor
covered with snow, and on the north side there appeared bays and
harbours. This difference may also probably arise from their not having
visited the place in the same season of the year.
Thursday, January 26, Capt. Cook sailed from Cape Horn. The farthest
southern latitude he made was 60 degrees 10 minutes, by 74 degrees 30
minutes west. The weather being very calm, Mr. Banks sailed in a small
boat to shoot birds, when he killed some sheer-waters and albatrosses;
the latter were larger than those caught to the north of the streight;
the sheer-waters were less, and their backs darker coloured. The
albatrosses proved very good eating.
Notwithstanding the doubling of Cape Horn is represented as a very
dangerous course, and that it is generally thought passing through the
streight of Magellan is less perilous, the Endeavour doubled it with as
little danger as the North Foreland on the Kentish coast; the heavens
were fair, the wind temperate, the weather pleasant, and, being near
shore, they had a very distinct view of the coast.
Wednesday, March 1, Captain Cook was in latitude 38 degrees 44 minutes
south, and longitude 110 degrees 33 minutes west, as well by observation
as by the log; which concurrence, after a course of 660 leagues, was
judged very singular; from whence it was plain, he had no currents that
affected the ship, and most probably had not approached any land of
great extent, as there are always currents near lands of considerable
compass. Mr. Banks killed more than sixty birds in one day, and he
caught two forest flies of the same species, but never yet described: he
also found a cuttle fish, which had just been killed by the birds; it
was different from the fishes of this name, met with in the European
seas, having a double row of sharp talons, resembling those of a cat,
which issued or retracted at will. This fish made excellent soup.
Saturday, the 25th, on account of a squabble about a bit of seal-skin,
which he had taken in a frolic, but which was represented to his officer
as a theft, one of the marines, a young fellow about twenty, threw
himself overboard, and was drowned.
About 10 o’clock, Tuesday, April 4, Peter Briscoe, servant to Mr. Banks,
discovered land to the south, about three or four leagues distant. The
Captain immediately hauled up for it, and found it to be an island of an
oval form, with a lake or lagoon in the center, that extended over the
greatest part of it; the border of land which surrounded the lake was in
many places low and narrow, especially towards the south, where the
beach consisted of a reef of rocks; three places on the north side had
the same appearance. This dismembrance of the firm land, made the whole
resemble several woody islands. To the west was a large clump of trees,
and in the center two cocoa-nut trees. Captain Cook came within a mile
on the north side, but though he cast a line of 130 fathom, he found no
bottom, and could not meet with any anchorage. The island appeared
covered with trees of different sorts, but the gentlemen on board could
not ascertain any, with glasses, except palm-nuts and cocoa-nuts; there
were several natives visible on shore; they seemed tall, with remarkable
large heads, which might probably be increased by some bandage; their
hair was black, and their complexions copper colour. There appeared
along the beach, a-breast of the ship, some of these inhabitants, with
pikes or poles in their hands, which seemed twice the height of
themselves: they at this time appeared naked; but when they retired,
upon the ship’s passing the island, they put on a covering of a light
colour. Some clumps of palm-trees served them for habitations, and at a
distance resembled hilly ground, and the groves had a very happy effect.
This island was in latitude 18 degrees south longitude, 139 28 west, and
was named LAGOON ISLAND.
Captain Cook saw land again in the afternoon to the north-west. He
reached it by sun-set, when it appeared a low island covered with wood,
in form circular, about a mile in circumference. No inhabitants were
visible, nor any cocoa-nut trees; though the Endeavour had reached the
shore within half a mile, yet the island appeared covered with verdure
of various tinges. This island, which is distant from that of Lagoon,
about seven leagues north 62 west. The gentlemen on board named THRUMB
CAP.
Wednesday the 5th they continued their course with a fine trade wind,
and about three o’clock discovered land to the west. This was a low
island between 10 and 12 leagues in circumference; it resembled in form
a bow, the cord and arch forming the land, and the interstice marking
the water; the beach was flat, without any visible herbage upon it,
being covered with sea-weeds. Its length was between three and four
leagues, and its width about 200 yards; the bow terminated with two
large tufts of cocoa-nut trees; the arch was covered with trees of
various heights, and of different verdure; some parts of it, however,
was low, and resembled the cord. They sailed along the beach, within a
league, till sun-set, when they judged they were half-way between the
two tufts of trees; here they sounded. This island, from the smoke that
was discovered, appeared to be inhabited, and it was named BOW ISLAND.
Captain Cook’s second Lieutenant, Mr. Gore, said, after they had sailed
by the island, that he had perceived several of the natives under the
first clump of trees, that he had discriminated their houses, and
observed many canoes hauled up. But he was the only person who made
these observations, though there were several upon deck besides himself.
About noon, on Thursday the 6th, they saw land again to the west, and at
three o’clock they came up with it. This land seemed divided into two
islands, or rather collections of islands, their extent being near nine
leagues. The two largest were divided from each other by a streight of
near half a mile in breadth.
Some of these islands were ten miles or more in length, but appeared
like long narrow strings of land, not above a quarter of a mile broad;
they seemed, however, to produce trees of different kinds, among which
was the cocoa-nut tree. Several of the inhabitants came out in their
canoes, and two of them appeared to have a design of coming on board;
but they, with the rest, stopped at the reef. When Captain Cook had got
about a league from the shore, he perceived some of the natives
following in a canoe, with a sail: he did not think proper to wait for
her, and though she had passed the reef, she discontinued her course.
These people appeared to be about our size, and well made: their
complexion was brown, and they seemed naked; they had, for the most
part, two weapons in their hands; one was a thin long pole, with a kind
of spear at the end; the other resembled a paddle; some of their canoes
were constructed to carry not more than three men; others had on board
six or seven; one hoisted a sail, which, upon the falling of a shower of
rain, was taken down and converted into an awning. It could not be
determined whether the signals made by the people on shore were designed
to deter the Endeavour’s company from landing, or as an invitation to
come on shore; these waved their hats, the others answered by shouting.
The Captain did not judge it prudent or merciful to be convinced in this
respect, as the island appeared of no importance, and the crew were not
destitute of any thing it could produce; and as it must have proved a
bloody contest on the side of the unarmed Indians. This curiosity was
therefore laid aside, in expectation of soon discovering the island,
where they had been directed to make their astronomical observations,
the natives of which, it is reasonable to conjecture, would make no
opposition to the landing of the gentlemen on board, having already
experienced the danger of resistance.
Captain Cook discovered another island on the seventh, about six in the
morning, which was judged to be in compass about five miles. It was very
low, with a piece of water in the center, and appeared to abound in
wood, and to be covered with verdure, but no inhabitants were visible.
It was called BIRD ISLAND, from the number of birds that were flying
about.
Saturday 8, in the afternoon, they saw land to the north, and in the
evening came a-breast of it, at about five miles distance. This land
seemed to be a chain of low islands, it was of an oval figure, and
consisted of coral and sand, with a few clumps of small trees, and in
the middle of it was a lagoon. It was, from its appearance, called CHAIN
ISLAND. They saw smoke, which arose from different parts, by which they
were convinced it was inhabited.
On Monday the 10th, after a tempestuous night, Captain Cook saw
Osnaburgh Island; it is called by the natives Maite. This island is high
and circular, about four miles in circumference; it is partly naked and
rocky, and partly covered with trees.
The same day, upon their looking out for the island to which they were
destined, they saw land a-head. The next morning it appeared very high
and mountainous, and it was known to be King George the IIId’s Island,
so named by Captain Wallis, but by the natives called Otaheite. The
calms prevented the Endeavour from approaching it till the morning of
the 12th, when a breeze springing up, before 11 several canoes were
making towards the ship; only a few approached, and the people on board
those that came the nearest would not come on board Captain Cook. Each
canoe had in it young plantains, and branches of trees. They were
brought, as Captain Cook was afterwards informed, as tokens of peace and
friendship, and they were handed up the sides of the ship by the people
in one of the canoes, who made signals in a very expressive manner,
intimating, that they desired these emblems of pacification should be
placed in a conspicuous part of the ship; and they were accordingly
stuck amongst the rigging, at which they certified their approbation.
Their cargoes consisting of cocoa-nuts, bananas, bread fruit, apples and
figs, which were very acceptable to the crew, and were then purchased.
In the evening they opened the north-west point, and saw York Island, so
named by the crew of the Dolphin. They lay off and on all night, and in
the morning of the 13th they entered Port Royal Harbour, in the island
of Otaheite, and anchored within half a mile of the shore. A great
number of the natives immediately came off in their canoes, bringing
with them bananas, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, apples, and some hogs, which
they bartered with the snip’s crew for beads and other trinkets.
The tree that bears the bread-fruit is about the size of the
horse-chesnut; its leaves are near a foot and a half long, in shape
oblong, resembling, in almost every respect, those of the fig-tree; its
fruit is not unlike the cantaloupe melon, either in size or shape; it is
inclosed in a thin skin, and its core is as large as a person’s thumb;
it is somewhat of the consistency of new bread, and as white as the
blanched almon: it divides into parts, and they roast it before it is
eaten; it has little or no taste. An elderly man, named _Owhaw_, who was
known to Mr. Gore and others, who had visited this island with Captain
Wallis, came on board, and as he was considered a useful man, the
Captain endeavoured to gratify all his enquiries. Captain Cook now drew
up several necessary rules for the regulation of their traffic with the
inhabitants, and ordered that they should be punctually observed.
When the ship was properly secured, the Captain went on shore with Mr.
Banks and Dr. Solander, a party under arms, and their friend the old
Indian. They were received on shore by some hundreds of the natives, who
were struck with such awe, that the first who approached crept almost
upon his hands and knees. He also presented to them branches of trees,
the usual symbol of peace. This symbol was received, on the part of the
English gentlemen, with demonstrations of satisfaction and friendship;
and noticing, that while each of the Indians held one of these branches
in his hand, they gathered some, and followed the example of the
natives.
They were conducted by the old Indian, accompanied by his countrymen,
towards the place where the Dolphin had watered; here the ground being
cleared, the chiefs of the natives threw down their boughs, and the
Captain and his companions followed the example, after having drawn up
the marines, who, marching in order, dropped their branches upon those
of the Indians. When they came to the watering-place, the Indians
intimated, that they had their permission to occupy that ground, but it
was not suited to their purpose. In the course of this walk, and a
circuit through the woods, the Indians had got rid of their timidity,
and became familiarized. On the way they received beads and other small
presents, at which they expressed great pleasure.
The whole circuit was near four miles, thro’ groves, consisting of trees
of cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit. Beneath which trees were the habitations
of the natives, consisting of only a roof, destitute of walls. In this
peregrination the gentlemen were not a little disappointed at finding
very few fowls or hogs. Captain Cook was informed by such of the party
as had been here with the Dolphin, that none of the people hitherto seen
were of the first rank, and they imagined the Queen’s residence was
moved, no traces remaining of it. Next morning, before they left the
ship, several canoes came about her, filled with people, whose dress
denoted them of the superior class: two of these came on board, and each
of them fixed upon a friend; one of them chose Mr. Banks, and the other
Captain Cook. The ceremony consisted of taking off their cloaths in
great part, and putting them upon their adopted friends. This compliment
was returned, by presenting them some trinkets. They then made signs for
these gentlemen to go with them to the place of their abode; and the
Captain being desirous of meeting with a more convenient harbour, and
knowing more of the people, readily assented. Accordingly the Captain,
Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, with the Indians and other friends, got into
two boats. About three miles distance they landed, among several
hundreds of the natives, who conducted them to a large house. Upon their
entrance they saw a middle aged man, named _Tootahah_, who, as soon as
they were seated, ordered a cock and hen to be produced, which he
presented to Mr. Banks and the Captain, as well as a piece of perfumed
cloth; which compliment was returned by a present from Mr. Banks. They
were then conducted with great civility to several large houses,
constructed in the same manner as those already described; the ladies,
so far from shunning, invited, and even pressed them to be seated.
Whilst they were afterwards walking along the shore, they met,
accompanied by a great number of natives, another Chief, named _Tubora
Tumaida_, with whom they settled a treaty of peace, in the manner before
described. Tubora Tumaida intimated, he had provisions for them if they
chose to eat, and they accordingly dined heartily upon bread-fruit,
plantains and fish.
In the course of this visit, Tomio, the wife of the Chief, placed
herself upon the same matt with Mr. Banks, close by him, but she not
being young, nor appearing ever to have possessed many charms; to these
causes may be ascribed the little attention this gentleman paid her; and
Tomio received the additional mortification of Mr. Banks’s beckoning to
a pretty girl, who, with some reluctance, came and seated herself by
him. The Princess was somewhat mortified at the preference given to her
rival, nevertheless she continued her assiduities to him. This whimsical
scene was interrupted by an event of a serious nature. Dr. Solander
having discovered that he had lost an opera glass, they complained to
the Chief, and interrupted the convivial party. This complaint was
enforced, by Mr. Banks’s starting up and striking the butt end of his
musket on the ground, which struck the Indians with a panic, and they
all precipitately ran out of the house, except the Chief, and a few
others of the superior class.
The Chief appeared much concerned at this accident; not, as we had
reason afterwards to believe, that he had any aversion to knavish
practices, but because he feared that this early instance of dishonesty
might give us unfavourable suspicions of his countrymen, and thereby
deprive him of those advantages and emoluments which they expected to
gain from us, and which by various artifices they afterwards secured,
when our connexion with them became more intimate. The chief, therefore,
to obviate any disadvantageous impressions, gave us to understand, with
an appearance of great probity, that the place which the Doctor had
mentioned was not within his district, but that he would send to the
Chief of it, and endeavour, if possible to have the glass recovered; but
that if this could not be done, he would make the Doctor compensation,
by giving him as much new cloth, of which he shewed large quantities, as
should be thought equal to its value. The case however was in a little
time brought, and the glass itself soon after, which deprived us of the
merit we should otherwise have had in refusing the cloth which had been
offered us. But it afforded an opportunity of convincing the natives of
our generosity, by lavishing rewards on them for an action, to which
self-interest had been the motive, rather than any sentiment of probity;
to which, from numerous transactions, they appeared to be absolute
strangers. After this adventure was amicably terminated, they returned
to the ship about six o’clock in the evening.
Saturday the 15th in the morning, several of the Chiefs, one of whom was
very corpulent, came on board from the other point, bringing with them
hogs, bread-fruit, and other refreshments, in exchange for which they
gave them hatchets, linen, beads and other trinkets, but some of them
took the liberty of stealing the top of the lightening chain. This day
the Captain, attended by Mr. Banks and some of the other gentlemen, went
a-shore to fix on a proper spot to erect a small fort for their defence
during their stay on the island; and the ground was accordingly marked
out for that purpose. A great number of the natives looking on all the
while, and behaving in the most peaceable and friendly manner.
Mr. Banks having suspected, from seeing few hogs or poultry in their
walks, that they had, upon the ship’s arrival, been driven farther up
the country, it was resolved to penetrate into the woods; some marines
and a petty officer being appointed to guard the tent in the interim;
several of the natives accompanied the gentlemen in this excursion. Upon
crossing a little river Mr. Banks perceiving some ducks, fired, and
killed three. The Indians were struck with the utmost terror at this
event, which occasioned them to fall suddenly to the ground, as if they
had been shot at the same time; they recovered, however, presently from
their fright, and continued the march. Before this party had gone much
farther, they were alarmed by the discharge of two pieces, fired by the
tent-guard. Owhaw, after calling together the Captain’s party, dispersed
all the Indians except three, who broke branches of trees as pledges of
their fidelity. Upon their return to the tent, it appeared, that an
Indian had taken an opportunity to snatch away one of the centinels
musquets; whereupon a young midshipman, under whose command the party
was, very imprudently ordered the marines to fire, which they did
immediately amongst the thickest of the fugitive Indians, in number
above a hundred, several of whom were wounded, but as the criminal did
not fall, they pursued and shot him dead.
When Mr. Banks heard of the affair, he was greatly displeased with the
guard, and he used his utmost endeavours to accommodate the difference;
going across the river, and through the mediation of an old man,
prevailed on many of the natives to come over to them, bringing
plantain-trees, their usual signal of peace, and clapping their hands in
their breasts, they cried, _Tyau_, which signifies friendship. In a
short time they became social and chearful, and seemed, for the present,
to have buried in oblivion the wanton acts of cruelty which had been so
lately exercised on their fellow countrymen.