consists chiefly of shops occupied by trading people. In the center of
the square is a fountain supplied with water from a spring at the
distance of three miles, from which it is brought by an aqueduct. From
this fountain both the shipping and inhabitants are supplied with water,
the place being continually crowded with negroes of both sexes waiting
to fill their jars. At every corner of the streets is an altar. The
market-place extends from the north-east end of the square along the
shore; and this situation is very convenient for the fishing-boats, and
those who bring vegetables from the other side of the river to market.
Negroes are almost the only people employed in selling the different
commodities exposed in the market, and they employ their leisure time in
spinning of cotton.
Without the Jesuits college on the shore is a village called Neustra
Seignora del Gloria, which is joined to the town by a very few
intervening houses. Three or four hundred yards within the Jesuits
convent stands a very high castle, but it is falling to decay. The
bishop’s palace is about three hundred yards behind the Benedictine
convent, and contiguous to it is a magazine of arms, surrounded by a
rampart.
The gentry here keep their chaises, which are drawn by mules; the ladies
however use a sedan chair, boarded before and behind, with curtains on
each side, which is carried by two negroes, depending from a pole
connected to the top of the chair by two iron rods coming from under its
bottom, one on each side, and resting at the top. The inhabitants
likewise use hammocks or rajas, supported in the same manner, and
surrounded with curtains.
In this town the apothecaries shops commonly serve the purposes of a
coffee-house, people meeting in them to drink capillaire, and play at
back-gammon. The gentry when seen abroad are well dressed, though at
home they are but loosely covered: the shopkeepers have commonly short
hair, and wear linen jackets with sleeves. Beggars, who infest the
streets of most European cities, are not to be found in this.
With regard to the women, it is on all hands agreed, that the females of
the Portuguese and Spanish settlements in South America, are less averse
to granting amorous favours, than those of any other civilized part of
the globe. According to Dr. Solander’s account, as soon as the evening
began, females appeared on all sides in every window, and particularized
those of the male sex they liked by giving them nosegays; the Doctor and
two other gentlemen received so many of these bouquets, that they threw
handfuls away.
The climate of Rio de Janeiro is both agreeable and healthy, being free
from many inconveniencies that are incident to other tropical countries.
The air is but seldom immoderately hot, as the sea breeze constantly
begins to blow about ten o’clock in the morning, and continues until
night, when it is generally succeeded by a land wind, though this does
not always happen. The seasons are divided into rainy and dry; though
their stationary periods have lately become very irregular and
uncertain: indeed the rainy seasons had almost entirely failed the four
years preceding their arrival, at which time the rains had just begun,
and they fell in large quantities during their stay: formerly the
streets have been overflowed by the rain, and rendered impassable except
with canoes.
The adjacent country is mountainous, and chiefly covered with wood, but
a small part of it appearing to be cultivated. The soil near the town is
loose and sandy, but farther from the river it is a fine black mould. It
produces all the tropical fruits, such as oranges, lemons, limes,
melons, mangoes, cocoa-nuts, &c. in great abundance, and without much
cultivation; a circumstance which is very agreeable to the inhabitants,
who are very indolent.
The mines, which lie far up in the country, are very rich; but their
situation is concealed, and nobody can view them, except those who work
in them. The experiment is very dangerous, for every one found upon the
road which leads to them is hung upon the next tree, unless he can give
a satisfactory account of the cause of his being in that situation.
About twelve months before their arrival, the government had detected
several jewellers in carrying on an illicit trade for diamonds with the
slaves in the mines; and immediately after a law passed, making it
felony to work at the trade, or have any tools in possession, the civil
officers having indiscriminately seized on all that could be found. Near
forty thousand negroes are annually imported to dig in the mines; these
works are so pernicious to the human frame, and occasion so great a
mortality amongst the poor wretches employed in them, that in the year
1766 twenty thousand more were draughted from the town of Rio, to supply
the deficiency of the former number.
There are several courts of justice in the town, at all of which the
Viceroy presides; in criminal causes the sentence is regulated by a
majority of voices in the supreme court. The Viceroy has a Council
appointed from Europe by the king, to assist him in his private
department, where he has two voices.
The inhabitants of Rio de Janeiro maintain a whale-fishery, which
supplies them with lamp-oil. They import their brandy from the Azores,
their slaves and East India goods from their settlements in Africa,
their wine from Madeira, and their European goods from Lisbon.
The current coin is Portuguese, which is struck here; the silver pieces
are called Petacks, of different value; and the copper are five and ten
ree pieces.
Rio de Janeiro is very useful for ships that are in want of refreshment;
the harbour is safe and commodious, and may be distinguished by a
remarkable hill, in the shape of a cone, at the west point of the bay.
The entrance is not wide, but it is easy, from the sea breeze, which
prevails from noon to sun-set, for any ship to enter before the wind.
The entrance of the narrow part is defended by two forts, La Cruz and
Lozia; they are about three quarters of a mile from each other. The
bottom being rocky, renders it dangerous to anchor here, but this may be
avoided by keeping the middle of the channel. The whole coast abounds
with a very great variety of fish, among which are dolphins and mackrel.
On the 9th of December they took out of the sea an incredible number of
atoms, of a yellowish colour, few of them more than the 50th part of an
inch in length; it could not even with a microscope be determined
whether they were animal or vegetable substances. These atoms tinged the
sea in such a manner, as to cover it with broad streaks of a colour
similar to themselves, the greatest part of a mile in length, and
several hundred yards in width.
Thursday, December 8, 1768, having procured all necessary supplies, they
left Rio de Janeiro; they did not meet with any material occurrence from
this time to the 22d, when they discovered numerous birds of the
Prosillaria genus, in latitude 39 degrees 37 minutes south, and
longitude 49 degrees 16 minutes west; they were also frequently
surrounded by great numbers of porpoises, of a singular species, which
were about fifteen feet in length, and of an ash-colour. On the 23d they
observed an eclipse of the moon; and about seven o’clock in the morning
a small white cloud appeared in the west, from which a train of fire
issued, extending itself westerly: about two minutes after they heard
two distinct loud explosions, immediately succeeding each other like
canon, after which the cloud soon disappeared.
On the 24th they caught a large loggerhead tortoise, weighing one
hundred and fifty pounds. They likewise shot several birds, among which
was an albetross, measuring between the tips of its wings nine feet and
an inch; and from its beak to the tail two feet one inch and an half. On
the 30th they ran upwards of fifty leagues, through vast numbers of land
insects, some in the air, and others upon the water; they appeared to
resemble exactly the flies that are seen in England, though they were
thirty leagues from land, and some of these insects never quit it beyond
a few yards. Captain Cook imagined he was at this time nearly opposite
to the bay called Sans fond (without bottom) where it is supposed, by
some writers, that the continent of America is divided by a passage; but
it was the opinion of the gentlemen on board, that there might be a
large river, which probably had occasioned an inundation. The 31st they
had much thunder, lightning, and rain: this and the three following days
they saw several whales, and likewise several birds, about the size of a
pidgeon, with white bellies and grey beaks.
January 4, 1769, they saw an appearance of land, which they mistook for
Pepys’ island; but on their standing towards it, it proved, what the
sailors call a Fog Bank. The ship’s crew were about this time, on their
complaining of cold, furnished with each a pair of trowsers, and a
jacket made of the stuff called Fearnought. They saw on the 11th, after
passing Falkland’s Island, at about four leagues distance, Terra Del
Fuego. Smoke was perceived, which they took for a signal, as it did not
continue after they had passed along the shore to the south-east. On the
14th they entered the streight of Le Maire; but the tide being against
them, they were driven out with great violence, and the waves ran so
high, that the ship’s bowsprit was frequently under water; at length
however they got anchorage, at the entrance of a little cove, which
Captain Cook called ST. VINCENT’S BAY.
The weeds, which here grow upon rocky ground, are very remarkable; they
appear above the surface in eight and nine fathoms water; the leaves are
four feet in length, and many of the stalks, though not more than an
inch and a half in circumference, above 100. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander
having been on shore some hours, they returned with more than a hundred
different plants and flowers, hitherto unnoticed by the European
botanists. The country in general near the bay was flat, and the bottom
particularly was a plain covered with grass; here was plenty of wood,
water and fowl, winter’s bark was found in great abundance. The trees
are a species of the birch, but are neither lofty nor large; the wood is
white, and they bear a small leaf. Here are also white and red
cranberries.
Sunday 15, having anchored in 12 fathoms, upon coral rocks, before a
small cove, distant from shore about a mile, two of the natives came
down upon the beach, in expectation that they would land; but this
situation affording little shelter, the Captain got under sail again,
and the natives retired.
About two o’clock they anchored in the bay of Good Success, and the
Captain went on shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, to
search for a watering-place, and confer with the Indians. These
gentlemen proceeded about a hundred yards before the Captain, when two
of the Indians having advanced forward and seated themselves, they rose,
upon Mr. Banks and the Doctor’s coming up, and each of them threw away a
small stick, which they had before in their hands; this they did in such
a direction, that the sticks flew both from themselves and the
strangers, which they meant as a token of peace, and a testimonial of
their renouncing weapons; they then returned briskly towards their
companions, who had remained at some distance behind, and made signs to
the strangers to advance, which they accordingly complied with. The
reception the gentlemen met with was friendly, though the manner was
uncouth. The civility was returned, by the distribution of beads and
ribbons, with which the Indians were much pleased. After a mutual
confidence had been thus established, the rest of the English party
joined, and a general conversation, though of a singular kind, ensued.
Three of the Indians now returned with the Captain and his friends to
the ship, whom they cloathed with jackets, and gave them bread, jerked
beef, &c. part of which they eat, and carried the remainder on shore.
They refused to drink rum or brandy, after tasting them, intimating by
signs that it burnt their throats. This circumstance may perhaps
corroborate the opinion of those who think water the natural drink of
mankind, as of all other animals. One of these Indians made several long
and loud speeches, though no part of either was intelligible to any of
us. Another of them stole the covering of a globe, which he concealed
under his skin garment. After remaining on board about two hours, they
returned on shore, Mr. Banks accompanying them. He conducted them to
their companions, who appeared no way curious to know what their friends
had seen, and the latter were as little disposed to relate as the others
were to enquire. None of these people exceeded five feet ten inches in
height, yet their bodies appeared large and robust, though their limbs
were small. They had broad flat faces, low foreheads, high cheeks, noses
inclining to flatness, wide nostrils, small black eyes, large mouths,
small but indifferent teeth, and black strait hair, falling down over
their ears and forehead, which was commonly smeared with brown and red
paints; and, like all the original natives of America, they were
beardless. Their garments were the skins of guanicos and seals, which
they wrapped round their shoulders. The men likewise wear on their heads
a bunch of yarn, spun from the wool of guanicos, which falls over their
foreheads, and ties behind with the sinews or tendons of some animal.
Many of both sexes were painted in different parts of their bodies, with
red, white, and brown colours; and had also three or four perpendicular
lines pricked across their cheeks and noses. The women have a small
string tied round each ancle, and wear each a flap of skin tied round
the middle. They carry the children on their backs, and are generally
employed in domestic labour and drudgery.
Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, attended by servants, set out from the ship
on the 16th, in the morning, with the design of going into the country
as far as they could that day, and returning in the evening. Having
entered a wood, they ascended the hill through a pathless wilderness
till the afternoon. After they had reached what they had taken for a
plain, they were greatly disappointed in finding it a swamp, covered
with birch, the bushes interwoven, and so inflexible they could not be
divided; however, as they were not above three feet high, they stept
over them; but they were up to the ancles in the boggy ground. The
morning had been very fine, but the weather now became cold and
disagreeable; the blasts of wind were very piercing, and a shower of
snow fell. They nevertheless pursued their route, in expectation of
finding a better road. Before they had got over this swamp, an accident
happened that greatly disconcerted them; Mr. Buchan, one of the
draughtsmen Mr. Banks had brought out, fell into a fit. It was
absolutely necessary to stop and kindle a fire, and such as were most
fatigued remained to assist him; but Messrs. Banks, Solander, Green and
Monkhouse, proceeded and attained the spot they had in view. Here they
found a great variety of plants, that gratified their curiosity, and
repaid them for their toil.
Upon returning to the rest of the company, amidst the snow which fell in
greater abundance, and being pinched with the cold that was now become
more intense, they found Mr. Buchan much recovered. They had previously
sent Mr. Monkhouse and Mr. Green back to Mr. Buchan, and those who
remained with him, in order to bring them to a hill, which was
conjectured to lie in a better track for returning to the wood, and was
accordingly fixed on as a place of rendezvous. They resolved from this
hill to pass through the swamp, which this way did not appear to be more
than half a mile in extent, into the covert of the wood, in which they
proposed building a hut and kindling a fire, to defend them from the
severity of the weather. The whole party accordingly met at the place
appointed about eight in the evening, whilst it was still day-light, and
proceeded towards the next valley. Dr. Solander having often passed
mountains in cold countries, was sensible that extreme cold, when joined
with fatigue, occasions a drowsiness, that is not easily resisted; he
accordingly intreated his friends to keep in motion, however
disagreeable it might be to them; his words were, “Whoever sits down,
will sleep; and whoever sleeps, will wake no more.” Every one seemed
accordingly armed with resolution; but on a sudden the cold became so
very intense, as to threaten the most direful effects. It was very
remarkable, that Dr. Solander himself, who had so forcibly admonished
and alarmed his party, should be the first who insisted upon being
suffered to repose. In spite of the most earned intreaties of his
friends, he lay down amidst the snow, and it was with great difficulty
they kept the Doctor awake. One of the black servants became also weary
and faint, and was upon the point of following the Doctor’s example. Mr.
Buchan was therefore detached with a party to make a fire at the first
commodious spot they could meet with. Mr. Banks, with four more,
remained with the Doctor and Richmond the black, who, with the utmost
difficulty, were induced to come on; but when they had traversed the
greatest part of the swamp, they expressed their inability of going any
farther. When the black was informed, that if he remained there he would
soon be frozen to death; he replied, that he was so exhausted with
fatigue, that death would be a relief to him. Doctor Solander said he
was not unwilling to go, but that he must first take some sleep,
notwithstanding what he had before declared to the company. Thus
resolved, they both sat down, supported by bushes, and in a short time
fell fast asleep. Intelligence now came from the advanced party, that a
fire was kindled about a quarter of a mile farther on the way. Mr. Banks
then waked the Doctor, who had almost lost the use of his limbs already,
though it was but a few minutes since he sat down; he nevertheless
consented to go on. Every measure taken to relieve the black proved
ineffectual, he remained motionless, and they were obliged to leave him
to the care of the other black servant and a sailor, who appeared to
have been the least hurt by the cold, and they were to be relieved, as
soon as two others were sufficiently warmed to supply their places. The
Doctor was with much difficulty got to the fire. Those who were sent to
relieve the companions of Richmond, returned in about half an hour,
without being able to find them. What rendered the mortification still
greater was, that a bottle of rum, the whole stock of the party, could
not be found, and was judged to have been left to one of the three who
were missing. There was a fall of snow, which incessantly continued for
near two hours, and there remained no hopes of seeing the three
absentees again, at least, alive. About 12 o’clock, however, a great
shouting was heard at a distance, which gave inexpressible satisfaction
to every one present. Mr. Banks and four others went forth and met the
sailor, with just strength enough to walk; he was immediately sent to
the fire, and they proceeded to seek for the two others. They found
Richmond upon his legs, but incapable of moving them; the other black
was lying senseless upon the ground. All endeavours to bring them to the
fire were fruitless, nor was it possible to kindle one upon the spot, on
account of the snow that had fallen, and was still falling, so that
there was no alternative, and they were compelled to leave the two
unfortunate negroes to their fate, making them, however, a bed of boughs
of trees, and covering them very thick with the same.
As all hands had been employed in endeavouring to move the two blacks to
the fire, and had therefore been exposed to the cold for near an hour
and a half, some of them began to be afflicted in the same manner as
those they went to relieve. Briscoe, another of Mr. Banks’s servants, in
particular, began to lose his sensibility. They at length reached the
fire, and passed the night in a very disagreeable manner. The party that
set out from the ship consisted of twelve, of whom two were already
judged to be dead: it was doubtful whether a third would be able to
return on board; and Mr. Buchan, a fourth, seemed threatened again with
his fits. The ship was at the distance of a long day’s journey, through
an unfrequented wood, in which they might probably be bewildered till
night; and being equipped only for a journey of a few hours, they had
not provisions left sufficient to afford the company a single meal.
On the 17th in the morning, at day-break, nothing presented itself to
view all around but snow, the trees being equally covered with it as the
ground; and the blasts of wind were so violent and frequent, that their
journey was rendered impracticable, and there was much reason to dread
perishing with cold and famine. However, about six in the morning they
were flattered with a dawn of hope of being delivered, by discovering
the sun through the clouds, which gradually diminished. Previous to
their setting out, messengers were dispatched to the unhappy negroes,
who returned with the melancholy news of their death.
Though the sky had flattered their hopes, the snow still continued
falling very fast, which prevented them beginning their journey so soon
as was proposed; but a breeze springing up about 8 o’clock, added to the
influence of the sun, began to clear the air; and the snow falling in
large flakes from the trees, announced a thaw. The force of hunger
prevailed over every other consideration, and induced them, after having
equally divided the small remains of their provisions, to set forward on
their journey about 10 in the morning.
In about three hours, to their great astonishment and satisfaction, they
found themselves upon the shore, much nearer to the ship than their most
sanguine expectations could have flattered them. When they took a
retrospect of their former route from the sea, they found, that instead
of ascending the hill in a direct line, they had made a circle almost
round the country. The congratulations every one on board expressed at
their return, can better be imagined than expressed.
On the 20th Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went again on shore, and landed
in the bottom of the bay, when they collected many shells and plants
hitherto unknown. They returned on board to dinner, and afterwards went
to visit an Indian town about two miles up the country. The access was
difficult on account of the mud. When they approached the town, two of
the Indians came out to meet them: they began to shout in the same
unmeaning manner as they had before done on board the ship. After this
had continued for some time, they conducted Mr. Banks and the Doctor to
the town. It was seated on a small hill, over-shaded with wood, and
consisted of about a dozen huts; constructed without art or regularity.
They were composed of a few poles inclining towards each other, in the
shape of a sugar loaf, which were covered on the weather-side with grass
and boughs; and on the other side a space was left open, which served at
once for a fire-place and a door. The huts that had been seen in St.
Vincent’s Bay were of the same kind. A little grass served for beds and
chairs, and their utensils consisted of a basket for the hand, a satchel
to hang upon the back, and a bladder for water; out of which they drank
through a hole near the top. This town was inhabited by a small tribe,
consisting of about 50 men, women and children. Their bows and arrows
were constructed with neatness and ingenuity: they were made of wood
highly polished; and the point, which was either glass or flint, was
fitted with much skill. Mr. Banks observed glass and flint amongst them
unwrought, with cloth, canvass, rings and buttons, &c. it was therefore
judged, that they travelled at times to the north, as no ship had
touched at this part of Terra del Fuego for some years.
[Illustration: _View of a Town in the Island of Terra del Fuego._]