the ship at Onrust, whither a pilot attended her, and where she came to
an anchor on the 22d of June; but as the wharfs were pre-engaged by
other ships, the repairs did not commence till the 24th of July. On
examination, the vessel was found in so very rotten and decayed a
condition, that the Dutch carpenter would not undertake her repair,
without shifting her whole bottom, till the Captain had certified under
his hand, that what should be done was in consequence of his own express
direction. This the Dutchman thought necessary, lest the ship should
never reach England, and the blame consequently rest with him.
During Captain Carteret’s stay at this port, he frequently visited M.
Houting, an Admiral in the service of the Dutch, a gentleman remarkable
for his politeness and affability, from whom the Captain received
several distinguishing marks of kindness.--The Governor of Batavia lives
with the state of a sovereign Prince. When he goes publicly abroad he is
escorted by horse-guards, and has two black footmen who run before his
coach. When any other coach meets that of the Governor, it is drawn on
one side, and the persons in it get out to pay their respects; nor, if a
coach is behind, must it be driven by the Governor’s, whatever necessity
may require its greater speed. The like homage is paid to the members of
the Council, only that the person does not quit his carriage, but
salutes them standing in it; one black man, with a stick in his hand,
runs before the coach of a member of the Council, and thinks himself at
liberty to punish those who do not make a proper obedience.
It was hinted to Captain Carteret, by the landlord of the hotel where he
lodged, that his carriage must stop, if he should meet the Governor’s,
or those of the Council; but the Captain disdaining to pay a degree of
homage to the servants of the States of Holland, which is not paid to
the King of Great Britain, refused to comply; and when the black men
were mentioned, he said he knew how to defend himself, and pointed to
his pistols. In a few hours afterwards he was told, from the Governor,
that he might act as he pleased.
Captain Carteret having engaged some English seamen, sailed from Onrust
on the 15th of September, and came to an anchor off Princes Island, in
the Streight of Sunda, on the following day. Having here taken in wood
and water, they sailed on the 25th with a fine gale of wind, which held
them during a passage of 700 leagues; and on the 23d of November they
came to an anchor in Table Bay in the Cape of Good Hope. The Captain
having received numberless civilities from the Governor and other
gentlemen of this place, sailed on the 6th of January, and on the 20th
anchored off the Island of St. Helena, from whence he again sailed on
the 24th. On the 31st of January they anchored in a bay off the Island
of Ascension, where they found an abundance of turtle, many of which
were taken; and the ship sailed again on the following day.
It had been accustomed to leave on this island (which is uninhabited) a
letter in a bottle, containing an account of the name and destination of
any ship which might touch there; and with this custom Captain Carteret
complied.
On the 20th of this month a ship which had been seen the preceding day
far to the leeward, but had out-sailed the Swallow in the night, tacked
and stood towards her. A boat was sent on board, in which was a young
officer, who, by many artful questions, endeavoured to learn from
Captain Carteret all the most important particulars of his voyage; and
this piece of ill manners was aggravated, by his inventing a tale to
disguise those of his own voyage; for the vessel he had just left was no
other than that of M. Bougainville, which was then returning from a
voyage round the world. Captain Carteret learnt this circumstance
afterwards from the Lieutenant; for the boat’s crew, which had brought
the French officer on board, had discovered every secret to one of the
English crew who spoke French. Happily, Captain Carteret had kept his
own secret so well, that Monsieur Bougainville was not at all the wiser
for the time he had lost in the negotiation of this illiberal business.
The Frenchman learnt the name of the English ship from the letter left
in the bottle at the island of Ascension.
Our adventurers had sight of the western islands on the 7th of March
1769, and came to an anchor at Spithead on the 20th of the same month,
without meeting with any accident worth recording.
Considering the extreme unfitness of the Swallow to perform such a
voyage; the length of time she was in doing it; the amazing dangers she
escaped; and the apparently insurmountable difficulties she went
through; to what can we ascribe her arriving safe in England at last,
but the merciful interposition of a particular providence.
CAPTAIN
COOK’s
VOYAGE
ROUND THE WORLD.
In 1768, 1769, 1770 and 1771.
Mr. Banks, a gentleman of considerable fortune in Lincolnshire, was
induced to undertake this voyage from his natural curiosity, and
invincible desire of attaining knowledge. He had already visited the
banks of Newfoundland and Labradore, and was now happy in having an
opportunity of observing the transit of Venus in the southern part of
America. He accordingly engaged his friend Dr. Solander to accompany him
in this voyage. This gentleman, who was born in Sweden, and educated
under the celebrated Linnæus, had, from his extensive learning, been
appointed to a place been appointed to a place in the British Museum,
and given the greatest satisfaction in that capacity. Mr. Banks also
took with him two draftsmen, one to delineate views and figures; the
other to paint such subjects of natural history as might present
themselves. He had besides a secretary and four servants.
On the 26th of August, 1768, the Endeavour sailed from Plymouth, and on
the 2d of September they saw land between Cape Finister and Cape
Ortegal, on the coast of Gallicia in Spain. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander
had, during this course, an opportunity of viewing many marine animals,
hitherto unnoticed; among these was a new species of an angular figure,
near three inches in length and one in thickness, having a hollow quite
through it, and a brown spot at one end. Four of these animals were
joined together; but upon being put into water they separated and swam
about. They resembled a gem in brightness, and shone in the water with
fine colours. There was another animal of a more beautiful and lively
colour, which was not unlike an opal. About ten leagues from Cape
Finister, various birds were observed, which had not been described by
Linnæus.
The islands of Puerto Santo and Madeira were discovered on the 12th, and
the next day they anchored in Fonchial road. In heaving the anchor, Mr.
Weir, the Master’s mate, was carried overboard and drowned. Mr. Banks
found at Madeira a tree, called by the natives _Vigniatico_, the _Laura
indicus_ mentioned by Linnæus. The wood of this tree can scarce be
distinguished from mahogany, which induced this gentleman to believe,
that the wood called in England Madeira mahogany, was the _Laura
indicus_; as no mahogany is exported from this island. The only article
of trade in Madeira is wine, which is made in the following manner; the
grapes are put into a square wooden vessel, the size of which is
proportioned to the quantity; then the persons employed take off their
cloaths, get into the vessel, and with their elbows and feet press out
as much of the juice as they can; in this manner the stalks are then
tied together, and pressed under another square piece of wood, by a
lever and a stone, to extract the remainder of the juice. A whole
vintage is frequently spoiled by the bad grapes being mixed with the
others, which the inhabitants obstinately refuse throwing out, as the
quantity of wine is increased by them.
There are no wheel-carriages in this island; the only resemblance of
them is a hollow board, that may be called a sledge, and which serves to
carry their wine vessels. The soil is so rich, and there is such a
variety in the climate, between the hills and plains, that there is no
object of luxury which grows either in India or Europe, that might not
probably be cultivated here. Walnuts, chesnuts and apples, flourish
almost without culture upon the hills. The pine-apple, the mango, the
guava and the banana, grow almost spontaneously in the town. The corn is
large grained and fine, and it might be produced in great abundance;
nevertheless, the greatest part of what is consumed is imported. The
beef, mutton, and pork, are likewise remarkably good, particularly the
first, which induced the Captain to take some on board. _Foncho_, which
is fennel in Portuguese, gave name to the town of Fonchial, that lies in
latitude 20 degrees 33 minutes north, and longitude 16 degrees 49
minutes west. It is seated at the bottom of a bay, poorly built, though
extensive in proportion to the island; the streets are narrow, and very
badly paved. In the churches there are great numbers of ornaments, with
pictures and images of saints; the first are, for the most part, done by
mere daubers, and the latter are cloathed in laced habits. A better
taste prevails in some of the convents, particularly that of the
Franciscans; here simplicity and neatness unite, and give us a very
favourable idea of these good fathers. The infirmary is also a building
that does honour to the architect, and is the most considerable edifice
in the whole place. There are many very high hills; Pico Ruivo is near
5100 feet in height, perpendicularly from its base. These hills are
covered round with vines to a certain height, above which there are
great numbers of chesnut and pine trees, and above them various sorts of
timber, so thick as to form forests. The _Mirmulano_ and _Paobranco_,
which are found amongst them, are unknown in Europe. The latter is very
beautiful, and would be greatly ornamental in our gardens. The
inhabitants are computed to be between 70 and 80,000; and the revenue
arising from the customs is supposed to amount to 20 or 30,000 pound
sterling per annum. Water, wine, fruit and onions, are here in plenty;
sweet-meats are also to be had without any difficulty; but permission
must be obtained from the Governor for poultry and fresh meat. The
Endeavour sailed from Madeira September 19. On the 22d they saw the
Islands of Salvages, northward of the Canaries. The chief of these
islands was about 5 leagues to the south one half west. These islands
appear to lie in latitude 30 degrees 11 minutes north. On the 23d they
saw the Peak of Teneriffe, bearing west by south. This mountain is near
15,400 feet high. On the 29th they saw Bona Vista, one of the Cape de
Verd Islands, lying in latitude 16 degrees north, and longitude 21
degrees 48 minutes west. From Teneriffe to Bona Vista they observed
flying fish in great numbers, which appeared very beautiful, their sides
resembling burnished silver. Mr. Banks went out in a boat on the 7th of
October, and caught what is called a Portuguese man of war, together
with several marine animals of the _Molusca_ tribe. They had now
variable winds, with some showers of rain; and the dampness of the air
did great injury to their iron utensils. October 19th Mr. Banks shot the
black-toed gull, which has not been described by Linnæus. The dung of
this bird is of a lively red.
They crossed the line with the usual ceremonies on the 25th of October.
When the Endeavour was, on the 28th of October, in the latitude of
Ferdinand Noronha, and in longitude 32 degrees 5 minutes west, they
looked out for the island, and the shoals which, according to the
charts, lie between it and the main; but neither the island or the
shoals could be discovered. On the 29th, in the evening, they saw the
luminous appearance of the sea, mentioned by navigators: it emitted rays
of light, resembling those of lightning. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, not
being inclined to adopt any of the opinions that had prevailed with
regard to the causes of this luminous appearance (such as its being
caused by fish darting at its prey, by the putrefaction of fish and
other inhabitants of the sea, and even by electricity) threw out a
casting net, when they were confirmed in their suggestion, that it was
occasioned by some luminous animal. A species of the _medusa_ was
caught, which resembled a metallic substance greatly heated, emitting a
whitish light. Some crabs were brought up at the same time, which,
though exceeding small, gave a very glittering appearance. These animals
had hitherto escaped the observation of all naturalists.
Provisions beginning to fall short, it was determined to put into Rio de
Janeiro. They saw the coast of Brazil on the 8th of November, and spoke
with the people on board a Portuguese fishing-boat, who informed them,
that the land which they saw was to the south of _Sancto Espirito_. Mr.
Banks bought some fish of the people in the boat, and was much surprised
to find that they refused Spanish silver, and wanted English shillings.
Their interpreters, who were a Venetian and Portuguese, informed them,
that the crew of the fishing vessel declared, they had not seen a ship
for eight years; this however they supposed to be a mistake, as they
spoke such imperfect English, that it was almost impossible to
understand them.
On the 13th, in the morning, we made sail for the harbour of Rio de
Janeiro. Mr. Hicks, the first Lieutenant, was sent before in the pinnace
to the city, to inform the Governor, we put in there for refreshments
and water, and to obtain a pilot. The pinnace returned without the
Lieutenant, who was detained by the Viceroy till the Captain came on
shore. When the Endeavour came to an anchor, a ten-oared boat filled
with soldiers came up, and rowed round the ship, without any
conversation taking place. Soon after another boat came up, with several
of the Viceroy’s officers; they enquired whence the Endeavour came; what
her cargo consisted of; her number of men and guns; and her destination.
These and several other questions were justly answered without
equivocation; when they apologized for detaining the Lieutenant, and the
other steps they had taken, pleading its being customary.
Captain Cook went on shore on the 14th, and obtained leave to purchase
provisions, on condition of employing an inhabitant as a factor: to this
the Captain objected, but in vain, as well as to the sending a soldier
in the boat every time she went from the shore to the ship. Having
requested, that the gentlemen on board might remain on shore whilst they
sojourned, and that Mr. Banks might go up the country to collect plants;
these requests were peremptorily refused. Captain Cook judging the
Viceroy imagined they were come to trade, the Captain endeavoured to
convince him of his mistake, by acquainting him, that they were bound to
the southward, to observe the transit of Venus over the sun; a very
interesting object to the advancement of navigation, of which phenomenon
he appeared to be totally ignorant. An officer was appointed to attend
the Captain; this, which he was told was meant as a compliment, he would
have declined; but the Viceroy was too polite to allow his dispensing
with the honour.
Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were greatly disappointed upon the Captain’s
return, to find they were not permitted to reside on shore, and go up
the country; and their chagrin was still farther increased, to hear they
were not allowed even to leave the ship; the Viceroy having ordered,
that only the Captain, and such sailors as were necessary to be upon
duty, should be suffered to come on shore; probably its being reported,
that these gentlemen came upon this voyage to make discoveries and
observations, and possessed extraordinary abilities for such business,
might occasion these rigid orders. They attempted, nevertheless, to come
on shore, but were prevented by the guard-boat; though several of the
crew, unknown to the centinel, stole out of the cabin window at
midnight, letting themselves down by a rope into the boat, and driving
away by the tide till they were out of hearing; they then rowed to some
unfrequented part of the shore, where they landed, and made excursions
up the country, though not so far as they could have wished. When the
Captain went on shore to remonstrate with the Viceroy respecting these
restrictions, the only answer that could be obtained was, that he acted
in consequence of his Master’s orders. Thus situated, the Captain
resolved to go no more on shore, rather than be a prisoner in his own
boat, as the officer, who complimented him with his company, waited upon
him both from and to the shore. It was now resolved to draw up two
memorials to the Viceroy; one was written by the Captain, the other by
Mr. Banks: they produced answers no way satisfactory. Captain Cook and
Mr. Banks replied, and several written remonstrances and answers passed
between them and the Viceroy, but to no purpose. The Captain judging it
necessary, in vindication of his compliance, to urge the Viceroy to some
act of force in the execution of his orders, he sent Lieutenant Hicks
with a packet (on the 20th) ordering him not to allow a guard in his
boat. The officer of the guard-boat finding the Lieutenant resolved to
obey the Captain’s command, did not oppose him by force, but
accompanying the Lieutenant on shore, went to the Viceroy, and
acquainted him with what had passed, which induced his Excellency to
refuse opening the packet, commanding the Lieutenant to return. He found
a guard had been put on board his boat in his absence, and insisted upon
the soldiers quitting it. The officer now seized the boat’s crew, and
conducted them to prison, under an escorte; and the Lieutenant was sent
back to the ship under a guard. When Mr. Hicks had acquainted the
Captain with these transactions on shore, the latter wrote to the
Viceroy, demanding his boat and men, and inclosed the memorial, which he
would not receive from the hands of the Lieutenant. The bearer of this
express was a petty officer, in order to avoid continuing the dispute
about a guard, which a commissioned officer must have kept up. Having
delivered his packet, an answer was promised.
In the interim, in a sudden gust of wind, the long-boat, with four pipes
of rum (by the rope breaking that was thrown her from the ship) went
a-drift windward of her, with a small skift of Mr. Banks’s that was
fastened to her. The misfortune was still greater as the pinnace was on
shore. The yawl was manned immediately, but did not return till next
morning, when she brought all the people on board. From them Captain
Cook learnt, that the long-boat having filled with water, they had
brought her to a grappling, and quitted her, and falling in with a reef
of rocks on their return, they were compelled to cut a-drift the little
boat belonging to Mr. Banks. In this situation the Captain dispatched
another letter to the Viceroy, acquainting him with the accident, at the
same time desiring he would assist them with a boat to recover their
own: this was accompanied with a fresh demand of the pinnace and her
crew. His Excellency at length complied with both the request and
demand; and the same day they fortunately recovered the long-boat and
skift. In the Viceroy’s answer to the Captain’s remonstrance, he
expressed some doubts of the Endeavour being a King’s ship, and accused
the crew of smuggling. Mr. Banks’s servants had, its true, by stratagem,
got on shore (the 22d) early in the morning, and remained till night,
but brought on board only plants and insects. In Mr. Cook’s reply, he
said he was willing to shew his Excellency his commission again, the
Viceroy having already seen it; and that if any attempt to carry on a
contraband trade should be repeated, desired his Excellency would take
the offender into custody. Thus terminated the dispute.
Mr. Banks (on the 26th in the morning) artfully eluded the vigilance of
the guard, and went on shore: he avoided the town, and passed the day in
the fields, where the chief objects of his curiosity lay. The people
behaved with civility, invited him to their habitations, and he
purchased a young pig for eleven shillings, and some other things. But
the next day it was reported, that search was making for him and Dr.
Solander, which induced them to lay aside all thoughts of going again on
shore.
Being prepared for sea, with water and provisions, they took on board a
pilot the 1st of December, but the wind being contrary, they were
prevented getting out. The next day a Spanish packet arrived from Buenos
Ayres, for Spain, when the Captain politely offered to take Mr. Cook’s
dispatches to Europe; and he accordingly sent, by that conveyance, all
the papers that had passed between him and the Viceroy, leaving
duplicates with his Excellency for his court.
The Endeavour did not get under sail till the 7th, when having passed
the Fort the pilot was discharged, and the guard-boat quitted them at
the same time. During the last three or four days of their remaining at
Rio de Janeiro, the air was covered with butterflies, chiefly of one
kind.
From the observations of the writer of the first account of this voyage,
we have the following description of the town and country. Rio de
Janeiro, is supposed to have been thus named on account of its being
discovered on the festival of saint Januarius. The town, which is the
capital of the dominions of the Portuguese, in America, borrows its name
from the river Januarius.
It is situated on the west side of the river, from which it extends
itself about three quarters of a mile. The ground on which it stands is
a level plain; it is defended on the north side by a hill that extends
from the river, leaving a small plain, which contains the suburbs and
the King’s dock. On the south side is another hill, running towards the
mountains which are behind the town. Some of its streets run parallel
from north to south, and are intersected by others at right angles. The
principal street is near an hundred feet in width, and extends from St.
Benedict to the foot of Castle-hill; the other streets are commonly
twenty or thirty feet wide. The houses adjoining to the principal street
have three stories, but in other places they are very irregular, though
built after the same manner as in Lisbon. In the town are four convents;
the first is that of the Benedictines, situated near its northern
extremity; this structure affords an agreeable prospect, and contains an
elegant chapel, which is ornamented with several valuable paintings. The
second is that of the Carmelites, which forms the centre angle of the
royal square, and fronts the harbour; its church had fallen some time
before, but it is again rebuilding in a very elegant manner, with fine
free-stone brought thither from Lisbon. The third is that of St.
Anthony, situated on the point of a hill on the south side of the town;
before this convent stands a large bason of brown granite, in the form
of a parallelogram, which is employed in washing. The fourth is situated
at the eastern extremity of the town, and was formerly the Jesuits
convent, but is now converted into a military hospital.
The Viceroy’s palace forms the right angle of the royal square: the
palace, mint, stables, goal, &c. compose but one large building, which
has two stories, and is ninety feet from the water. In passing through
the palace, the first entrance is to a large hall or guard-room, to
which there is an ascent of three or four steps. In the guard-room are
stationed the body guards who attend the Viceroy, and are relieved every
morning between eight and nine. Adjoining to the hall are the stables,
the prison being in the back part of the building. Within the guard-room
is a flight of stairs for ascending to the upper story; this divides at
a landing-place about half way, and forms two branches, one leading to
the right, and the other to the left. The former enters a saloon, where
there are two officers in constant attendance; the Viceroy’s aid-du-camp
at the same time waiting in an anti-chamber to receive messages and
deliver orders.