Navigation of the Polar Sea, in two Canoes, as far as Cape
Turnagain, to the Eastward, a distance exceeding Five Hundred and
Fifty Miles--Observations on the probability of a North-West
Passage.
1821. July 20.
We intended to have embarked early this morning, and to have launched
upon an element more congenial with our habits than the fresh-water
navigations, with their numerous difficulties and impediments which we
had hitherto encountered, but which was altogether new to our Canadian
voyagers. We were detained, however, by a strong north-east gale, which
continued the whole day, with constant thunder showers; the more
provoking as our nets procured but few fish, and we had to draw upon our
store of dried meat; which, with other provision for the journey,
amounted only to fifteen days' consumption. Indeed, we should have
preferred going dinnerless to bed rather than encroach on our small
stock, had we not been desirous of satisfying the appetites, and
cheering the spirits of our Canadian companions at the commencement of
our voyage. These thoughtless people would, at any time incur the
hazard of absolute starvation, at a future period, for the present
gratification of their appetites; to indulge which they do not hesitate,
as we more than once experienced, at helping themselves secretly; it
being,{28} in their opinion, no disgrace to be detected in pilfering
food.
Our only luxury now was a little salt, which had long been our
substitute both for bread and vegetables. Since our departure from Point
Lake we had boiled the Indian tea plant, _ledum palustre_, which
produced a beverage in smell much resembling rhubarb; notwithstanding
which we found it refreshing, and were gratified to see this plant
flourishing abundantly on the sea-shore, though of dwarfish growth.
_July 21_.--The wind, which had blown strong through the night became
moderate in the morning, but a dense fog prevented us from embarking
until noon, when we commenced our voyage on the Hyperborean Sea. Soon
afterwards we landed on an island where the Esquimaux had erected a
stage of drift timber, and stored up many of their fishing implements
and winter sledges, together with a great many dressed seal, musk-ox,
and deer skins. Their spears headed with bone, and many small articles
of the same material, were worked with extreme neatness, as well as
their wooden dishes, and cooking utensils of stone; and several
articles, very elegantly formed of bone, were evidently intended for
some game, but Augustus was unacquainted with their use. We took from
this deposit four seal-skins to repair our shoes, and left in exchange a
copper-kettle, some awls and beads.
We paddled all day along the coast to the eastward, on the inside of a
crowded range of islands, and saw very little ice; the "blink" of it,
however, was visible to the northward, and one small iceberg was seen at
a distance. A tide was distinguishable among the islands by the foam
floating on the water, but we could not ascertain its direction. In the
afternoon St. Germain killed on an island a fat deer, which was a great
acquisition to us; it was the first we had seen for some months in good
condition.
Having encamped on the main shore, after a run of thirty-seven miles, we
set up a pole to ascertain the rise and fall of the water, which was
repeated at every halting-place, and Hepburn was ordered to attend to
the result. We found the coast well covered with vegetation, of moderate
height, even in its outline, and easy of approach. The islands are rocky
and barren, presenting high cliffs of a columnar structure. I have named
the westernmost group of those we passed "Berens' Isles," in honour of
the Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company; and the easternmost{29}, "Sir
Graham Moore's Islands." At the spot where we landed some muscle-shells
and a single piece of sea-weed lay on the beach; this was the only spot
on the coast where we saw shells. We were rejoiced to find the beach
strewed with abundance of small drift wood, none of it recent.
It may be remarked that the Copper-Mine River does not bring down any
drift-wood; nor does any other known stream except Mackenzie's River;
hence, from its appearance on this part of the coast an easterly current
may be inferred. This evening we were all in high glee at the progress
we had made; the disappearance of the ice, and the continuance of the
land in an eastern direction, and our future prospects, formed an
enlivening subject of conversation. The thermometer varied during the
day between 43° and 45°. The fishing nets were set, but produced
nothing.
On the 22nd we embarked at four A.M., and having the benefit of a light
breeze continued our voyage along the coast under sail, until eleven,
when we halted to breakfast, and to obtain the latitude. The coast up to
this point presented the same general appearance as yesterday, namely, a
gravelly or sandy beach, skirted by green plains; but as we proceeded,
the shore became exceedingly rocky and sterile; and, at last,
projecting considerably to the northward, it formed a high and steep
promontory. Some ice had drifted down upon this cape, which, we feared,
might check our progress; but, as the evening was fine, we ventured upon
pushing the canoes through the small channels formed among it. After
pursuing this kind of navigation, with some danger and more anxiety, we
landed and encamped on a smooth rocky point; whence we perceived, with
much satisfaction, that the ice consisted only of detached pieces, which
would be removed by the first breeze. We sounded in seventeen fathoms,
close to the shore, this day. The least depth ascertained by the lead,
since our departure from the river, was six fathoms; and any ship might
pass safely between the islands and the main. The water is of a light
green colour, but not very clear; and much less salt than that of the
Atlantic, judging from our recollection of its taste. In the course of
the day we saw geese and ducks with their young, and two deer; and
experienced very great variations of temperature, from the light breezes
blowing alternately from the ice and the land. The name of "Lawford's
Islands" was bestowed on a group we passed in the course of the day, as
a mark of my respect for Vice-Admiral Lawford, under whose auspices I
first entered the naval service.
A fresh breeze blowing through the night had driven the ice from the
land, and opened a channel of a mile in width; we, therefore, embarked
at nine A.M. to pursue our journey along the coast, but at the distance
of nine miles were obliged to seek shelter in Port Epworth, the wind
having become adverse, and too strong to admit of our proceeding. The
Tree River of the Esquimaux, which discharges its waters into this bay,
appears to be narrow, and much interrupted by rapids. The fishing-nets
were set, but obtained only one white fish and a few bull-heads. This
part of the coast is the most sterile and inhospitable that can be
imagined. One trap-cliff succeeds another with tiresome uniformity, and
their _debris_ cover the narrow valleys that intervene, to the exclusion
of every kind of herbage. From the summit of these cliffs the ice
appeared in every direction.
We obtained the following observations during our stay; latitude 67° 42'
15" N., longitude 112° 30' 00" W., variation 47° 37' 42" E.
The wind abating, at eight P.M. we re-embarked, and soon afterwards
discovered, on an island, a rein-deer, which the interpreters
fortunately killed. Resuming our voyage we were much impeded by the
ice, and, at length, being unable to force a passage through a close
stream that had collected round a cape, we put ashore at four A.M. On
the 24th, several stone fox-traps and other traces of the Esquimaux were
seen near the encampment. The horizontal refraction varied so much this
morning, that the upper limb of the sun twice appeared at the horizon
before it finally rose.
For the last two days the water rose and fell about nine inches. The
tides, however, seemed to be very irregular, and we could not determine
the direction of the ebb or flood. A current setting to the eastward was
running about two miles an hour during our stay. The ice having removed
a short distance from the shore, by eleven A.M. we embarked, and with
some difficulty effected a passage; then making a traverse across Gray's
Bay[9], we paddled up under the eastern shore against a strong wind. The
interpreters landed here, and went in pursuit of a deer, but had no
success. This part of the coast is indented by deep bays, which are
separated by peninsulas formed like wedges, sloping many miles into the
sea, and joined by low land to the main: so that often mistaking them
for islands, we were led by a circuitous route round the bays. Cliffs
were numerous on the islands, which were all of the trap formation.
[9] Named after Mr. Gray, principal of the Belfast Academy.{30} An
island which lies across the mouth of this bay bears the name of
our English sailor Hepburn.
At seven, a thunder-storm coming on, we encamped at the mouth of a river
about eighty yards wide and set four nets. This stream, which received
the name of Wentzel, after our late companion, discharges a considerable
body of water. Its banks are sandy and clothed with herbage. The
Esquimaux had recently piled up some drift timber here. A few ducks,
ravens, and snow birds were seen to-day. The distance made was
thirty-one miles.
_July 25_.--We had constant rain with thunder during the night. The nets
furnished only three salmon-trout. We attributed the want of greater
success to the entrance of some seals into the mouth of the river.
Embarking at six A.M. we paddled against a cold breeze, until the
spreading of a thick fog caused us to land. The rocks here consisted of
a beautiful mixture of red and gray granite, traversed from north to
south by veins of red felspar, which were crossed in various directions
by smaller veins filled with the same substance.
At noon the wind coming from a favourable quarter tempted us to proceed,
although the fog was unabated. We kept as close as we could to the main
shore, but having to cross some bays, it became a matter of doubt
whether we had not left the main, and were running along an island. Just
as we were endeavouring to double a bold cape, the fog partially cleared
away, and allowed us an imperfect view of a chain of islands on the
outside, and of much heavy ice which was pressing down upon us. The
coast near us was so steep and rugged that no landing of the cargoes
could be effected, and we were preserved only by some men jumping on the
rocks, and thrusting the ice off with poles. There was no alternative
but to continue along this dreary shore, seeking a channel between the
different masses of ice which had accumulated at the various points. In
this operation both the canoes were in imminent danger of being crushed
by the ice, which was now tossed about by the waves that the gale had
excited. We effected a passage, however, and keeping close to the shore,
landed at the entrance of Detention Harbour, at nine P.M., having come
twenty-eight miles. An old Esquimaux encampment was traced on this spot;
and an ice chisel, a copper knife, and a small iron knife were found
under the turf. I named this cape after Mr. Barrow of the Admiralty, to
whose exertions are mainly owing the discoveries recently made in
Arctic geography. An opening on its eastern side received the
appellation of Inman Harbour, after my friend the Professor at the Royal
Naval College, Portsmouth; and to a group of islands to seaward of it,
we gave the name of Jameson, in honour of the distinguished Professor of
Mineralogy at Edinburgh.
We had much wind and rain during the night; and by the morning of the
26th a great deal of ice had drifted into the inlet. We embarked at four
and attempted to force a passage, when the first canoe got enclosed, and
remained for some time in a very perilous situation: the pieces of ice,
crowded together by the action of the current and wind, pressing
strongly against its feeble sides. A partial opening, however,
occurring, we landed without having sustained any serious injury. Two
men were then sent round the bay, and it was ascertained that instead of
having entered a narrow passage between an island and the main, we were
at the mouth of a harbour, having an island at its entrance; and that it
was necessary to return by the way we came, and get round a point to the
northward. This was, however, impracticable, the channel being blocked
up by drift ice; and we had no prospect of release except by a change
of wind. This detention was extremely vexatious, as we were losing a
fair wind, and expending our provision. In the afternoon the weather
cleared up, and several men went hunting, but were unsuccessful. During
the day the ice floated backwards and forwards in the harbour, moved by
currents, not regular enough to deserve the name of tide, and which
appeared to be governed by the wind. We perceived great diminution by
melting in the pieces near us. That none of this ice survived the summer
is evident, from the rapidity of its decay; and because no ice of last
year's formation was hanging on the rocks. Whether any body of it exists
at a distance from the shore, we could not determine.
The land around Cape Barrow, and to Detention Harbour, consists of steep
craggy mountains of granite, rising so abruptly from the water's edge,
as to admit few landing-places even for a canoe. The higher parts attain
an elevation of fourteen or fifteen hundred feet; and the whole is
entirely destitute of vegetation.
On the morning of the 27th, the ice remaining stationary at the
entrance, we went to the bottom of the harbour, and carried the canoes
and cargoes about a mile and a half across the point of land that forms
the east side of it; but the ice was not more favourable there for our
advancement than at the place we had left. It consisted of small pieces
closely packed together by the wind, extending along the shore, but
leaving a clear passage beyond the chain of islands with which the whole
of this coast is girt. Indeed, when we left the harbour we had little
hope of finding a passage; and the principal object in moving was, to
employ the men, in order to prevent their reflecting upon and discussing
the dangers of our situation, which we knew they were too apt to do when
leisure permitted. Our observations place the entrance of Detention
Harbour in latitude 67° 53' 45", longitude 110° 41' 20" W., variation
40° 49' 34" E. It is a secure anchorage, being sheltered from the wind
in every direction; the bottom is sandy.
_July 28_.--As the ice continued in the same state, several of the men
were sent out to hunt; and one of them fired no less than four times at
deer, but unfortunately without success. It was satisfactory, however,
to ascertain that the country was not destitute of animals. We had the
mortification to discover that two of the bags of pemmican, which was
our principal reliance, had become mouldy by wet. Our beef too had been
so badly cured, as to be scarcely eatable, through our having been
compelled, from haste, to dry it by fire instead of the sun. It was not,
however, the quality of our provision that gave us uneasiness, but its
diminution, and the utter incapacity to obtain any addition. Seals were
the only animals that met our view at this place, and these we could
never approach.
Dr. Richardson discovered near the beach a small vein of galena,
traversing gneiss rocks, and the people collected a quantity of it in
the hope of adding to our stock of balls; but their endeavours to smelt
it, were, as may be supposed, ineffectual. The drift timber on this part
of the coast consists of pine and taccamahac, (_populus balsamifera_),
most probably from Mackenzie's, or some other river to the westward of
the Copper Mine. It all appears to have lain long in the water, the bark
being completely worn off, and the ends of the pieces rubbed perfectly
smooth. There had been a sharp frost in the night, which formed a pretty
thick crust of ice in a kettle of water that stood in the tents; and for
several nights thin films of ice had appeared on the salt water amongst
the cakes of stream ice[10]. Notwithstanding this state of temperature,
we were tormented by swarms of musquitoes; we had persuaded ourselves
that these pests could not sustain the cold in the vicinity of the sea,
but it appears they haunt every part of this country in defiance of
climate. Mr. Back made an excursion to a hill at seven or eight miles'
distance, and from its summit he perceived the ice close to the shore as
far as his view extended.
[10] This is termed _bay-ice_ by the Greenland-men.
On the morning of the 29th the party attended divine service. About noon
the ice appearing less compact, we embarked to change our situation,
having consumed all the fuel within our reach. The wind came off the
land just as the canoes had started, and we determined on attempting to
force a passage along the shore; in which we happily succeeded, after
seven hours' labour and much hazard to our frail vessels. The ice lay so
close that the crews disembarked on it, and effected a passage by
bearing against the pieces with their poles; but in conducting the
canoes through the narrow channels thus formed, the greatest care was
requisite, to prevent the sharp projecting points from breaking the
bark. They fortunately received no material injury, though they were
split in two places.
At the distance of three miles, we came to the entrance of a deep bay,
whose bottom was filled by a body of ice so compact as to preclude the
idea of a passage through it; whilst at the same time, the traverse
across its mouth was attended with much danger, from the approach of a
large field of ice, which was driving down before the wind. The dread of
further detention, however, prevented us from hesitating; and we had the
satisfaction of landing in an hour and a half on the opposite shore,
where we halted to repair the canoes and to dine. I have named this bay
after my friend Mr. Daniel Moore of Lincoln's Inn; to whose zeal for
science, the Expedition was indebted for the use of a most valuable
chronometer. Its shores are picturesque; sloping hills receding from the
beach, and clothed with verdure, bound its bottom and western side; and
lofty cliffs of slate clay, with their intervening grassy valleys, skirt
its eastern border. Embarking at midnight, we pursued our voyage without
interruption, passing between the Stockport and Marcet Islands and the
main, until six A.M. on July 30th; when, having rounded Point Kater, we
entered Arctic Sound, and were again involved in a stream of ice, but
after considerable delay extricated ourselves, and proceeded towards the
bottom of the inlet in search of the mouth of a river, which we supposed
it to receive, from the change in the colour of the water.
About ten A.M. we landed, to breakfast on a small deer which St.
Germain had killed; and sent men in pursuit of some others in sight, but
with which they did not come up. Re-embarking, we passed the river
without perceiving it, and entered a deep arm of the sound; which I have
named Baillie's Cove, in honour of a relative of the lamented Mr. Hood.
As it was too late to return, we encamped, and by walking across the
country discovered the river, whose mouth being barred by low sandy
islands and banks, was not perceived when we passed it. Course and
distance from Galena Point to this encampment were S.E.3/4S.--forty-one
miles.
From the accounts of Black-meat{31} and Boileau at Fort Chipewyan, we
considered this river to be the Anatessy; and Cape Barrow to be the
projection which they supposed to be the N.E. termination of America.
The outline of the coast, indeed, bears some resemblance to the chart
they sketched; and the distance of this river from the Copper Mine,
nearly coincides with what we estimated the Anatessy to be, from their
statements. In our subsequent journey, however, across the barren
grounds we ascertained that this conjecture was wrong, and that the
Anatessy, which is known to come from Rum Lake, must fall into the sea
to the eastward of this place.
Our stock of provision being now reduced to eight days' consumption, it
had become a matter of the first importance to obtain a supply; and as
we had learned from Terregannoeuck that the Esquimaux frequent the
rivers at this season, I determined on seeking a communication with them
here, in the hope of obtaining relief for our present wants, or even
shelter for the winter if the season should prevent us from returning
either to the Hook's party, or Fort Enterprise; and I was the more
induced to take this step at this time, as several deer had been seen
to-day, and the river appeared good for fishing: which led me to hope we
might support the party during our stay, if not add to our stock by our
own exertions in hunting and fishing. Augustus, Junius, and Hepburn,
were therefore furnished with the necessary presents, and desired to go
along the bank of the river as far as they could, on the following day,
in search of the natives, to obtain provision and leather, as well as
information respecting the coast.
They started at four A.M., and at the same time our hunters were sent
off in search of deer: and the rest of the party proceeded in the canoes
to the first cascade in the river, at the foot of which we encamped, and
set four nets. This cascade, produced by a ridge of rocks crossing the
stream, is about three or four feet in height, and about two hundred and
fifty yards wide. Its position by our observations in latitude 67° 19'
23" N., longitude 109° 44' 30" W., variation 41° 43' 22", dip 88° 58'
48". I have named this river Hood, as a small tribute to the memory of
our lamented friend and companion. It is from three to four hundred
yards wide below the cascade, but in many places very shallow. The
banks, bottom, and adjacent hills, are formed of a mixture of sand and
clay. The ground was overspread with small willows and the dwarf birch,
both too diminutive for fuel; and the stream brought down no drift wood.
We were mortified to find the nets only procured one salmon and five
white fish, and that we had to make another inroad upon our dried meat.
_August 1_.--At two this morning the hunters returned with two small
deer and a brown bear. Augustus and Junius arrived at the same time,
having traced the river twelve miles further up, without discovering any
vestige of inhabitants. We had now an opportunity of gratifying our
curiosity respecting the bear so much dreaded by the Indians, and of
whose strength and ferocity we had heard such terrible accounts. It
proved to be a lean male of a yellowish brown colour, and not longer
than a common black bear. It made a feeble attempt to defend itself,
and was easily despatched. The flesh was brought to the tent, but our
fastidious voyagers supposing, from its leanness, that the animal had
been sickly, declined eating it; the officers, however, being less
scrupulous, boiled the paws, and found them excellent.
We embarked at ten A.M., and proceeding down the river, took on board
another deer that had been killed by Crédit last evening. We then ran
along the eastern shore of Arctic Sound, distinguished by the name of
Banks' Peninsula, in honour of the late Right Honourable Sir Joseph
Banks, President of the Royal Society; and rounding Point Wollaston at
its eastern extremity, opened another extensive sheet of water; and the
remainder of the afternoon was spent in endeavouring to ascertain, from
the tops of the hills, whether it was another bay, or merely a passage
enclosed by a chain of islands. Appearances rather favouring the latter
opinion, we determined on proceeding through it to the southward. During
the delay four more deer were killed, all young and lean. It appeared
that the coast is pretty well frequented by rein-deer at this season;
but it was rather singular, that hitherto we had killed none (excepting
the first) but young ones of last season, which were all too lean to
have been eaten by any but persons who had no choice.
We paddled along the western shore with the intention of encamping, but
were prevented by the want of drift wood on the beach. This induced us
to make a traverse to an island, where we put up at midnight, having
found a small bay, whose shores furnished us with a little fire-wood. A
heavy gale came on from the westward, attended with constant rain, and
one of the squalls overthrew our tents. The course and distance made
this day were north-east sixteen miles and a half. I may here mention,
that Arctic Sound appeared the most convenient, and perhaps the best
place for ships to anchor that we had seen along the coast; at this
season especially, when they might increase their stock of provision, if
provided with good marksmen. Deer are numerous in its vicinity,
musk-oxen also may be found up Hood's River, and the fine sandy bottom
of the bays promises favourably for fishing with the seine. The hills on
the western side are even in their outline and slope gradually to the
water's edge. The rocks give place to an alluvial sandy soil, towards
the bottom of the Sound; but on Banks' Peninsula rocky eminences again
prevail, which are rugged and uneven, but intersected by valleys, at
this time green; along their base is a fine sandy beach. From Point
Wollaston to our encampment the coast is skirted with trap cliffs, which
have often a columnar form, and are very difficult of access. These
cliffs lie in ranges parallel to the shore, and the deer that we killed
were feeding in small marshy grassy plats that lie in the valleys
between them.
Being detained by the continuance of the gale, on the 2d of August some
men were sent out to hunt, and the officers visited the tops of the
highest hills, to ascertain the best channels to be pursued. The wind
abating, at ten P.M., we embarked and paddled round the southern end of
the island, and continued our course to the south-east. Much doubt at
this time prevailed as to the land on the right being the main shore, or
merely a chain of islands. The latter opinion was strengthened by the
broken appearance of the land, and the extensive view we had up Brown's
Channel, (named after my friend Mr. Robert Brown,) the mouth of which we
passed, and were in some apprehension of being led away from the main
shore; and, perhaps, after passing through a group of islands, of coming
to a traverse greater than we durst venture upon in canoes: on the other
hand, the continuous appearance of the land on the north side of the
channel, and its tending to the southward excited the fear that we were
entering a deep inlet.
In this state of doubt we landed often, and endeavoured, from the
summits of the highest hills adjoining the shore, to ascertain the true
nature of the coast, but in vain, and we continued paddling through the
channel all night against a fresh breeze, which, at half-past four,
increased to a violent gale, and compelled us to land. The gale
diminished a short time after noon on the 3d, and permitted us to
re-embark and continue our voyage until four P.M., when it returned with
its former violence, and finally obliged us to encamp, having come
twenty-four miles on a south-east three-quarter south course.
From the want of drift wood to make a fire we had fasted all day, and
were under the necessity, in the evening, of serving out pemmican, which
was done with much reluctance, especially as we had some fresh deers'
meat remaining. The inlet, when viewed from a high hill adjoining to our
encampment, exhibited so many arms, that the course we ought to pursue
was more uncertain than ever. It was absolutely necessary, however, to
see the end of it before we could determine that it was not a strait.
Starting at three A.M., on the 4th, we paddled the whole day through
channels, from two to five or six miles wide, all tending to the
southward. In the course of the day's voyage we ascertained, that the
land which we had seen on our right since yesterday morning, consisted
of several large islands, which have been distinguished by the names of
Goulburn, Elliott, and Young; but the land on our left preserved its
unbroken appearance, and when we encamped, we were still uncertain
whether it was the eastern side of a deep sound or merely a large
island. It differed remarkably from the main shore, being very rugged,
rocky, and sterile, whereas the outline of the main on the opposite side
was even, and its hills covered with a comparatively good sward of
grass, exhibiting little naked rock. There was no drift timber, but the
shores near the encampment were strewed with small pieces of willow,
which indicated our vicinity to the mouth of a river. This fuel enabled
us to make a hearty supper from a small deer killed this evening.
The shallows we passed this day were covered with shoals of _capelin_,
the angmaggoeük of the Esquimaux. It was known to Augustus, who informed
us that it frequents the coast of Hudson's Bay, and is delicate eating.
The course and distance made was, south by east-half-east, thirty-three
miles.
After paddling twelve miles in the morning of the 5th, we had the
mortification to find the inlet terminated by a river; the size of which
we could not ascertain, as the entrance was blocked by shoals. Its mouth
lies in latitude 66° 30' N., longitude 107° 53' W. I have named this
stream Back, as a mark of my friendship for my associate[11]. We were
somewhat consoled for the loss of time in exploring this inlet, by the
success of Junius in killing a musk-ox, the first we had seen on the
coast; and afterwards by the acquisition of the flesh of a bear, that
was shot as we were returning up the eastern side in the evening. The
latter proved to be a female, in very excellent condition; and our
Canadian voyagers, whose appetite for fat meat is insatiable, were
delighted.
[11] From subsequent conversation with the Copper Indians, we were
inclined to suppose this may be the Thlueetessy{32}, described by
Black-meat, mentioned in a former part of the narrative.
We encamped on the shores of a sandy bay, and set the nets; and finding
a quantity of dried willows on the beach, we were enabled to cook the
bear's flesh, which was superior to any meat we tasted on the coast. The
water fell two feet at this place during the night. Our nets produced a
great variety of fish, namely, a salmon-trout, some round fish,
tittameg, bleak, star-fish, several herrings, and a flat fish
resembling plaice, but covered on the back with horny excrescences.
On the 6th we were detained in the encampment by stormy weather until
five P.M., when we embarked and paddled along the northern shore of the
inlet; the weather still continuing foggy, but the wind moderate.
Observing on the beach a she bear with three young ones, we landed a
party to attack them: but being approached without due caution, they
took the alarm and scaled a precipitous rocky hill, with a rapidity that
baffled all pursuit. At eight o'clock, the fog changing into rain, we
encamped. Many seals were seen this day, but as they kept in deep water
we did not fire at them.
On August 7th the atmosphere was charged with fog and rain all the day,
but as the wind was moderate we pursued our journey; our situation,
however, was very unpleasant, being quite wet and without room to
stretch a limb, much less to obtain warmth by exercise. We passed a cove
which I have named after my friend Mr. W. H. Tinney; and proceeded along
the coast until five P.M., when we put up on a rocky point nearly
opposite to our encampment on the 3d, having come twenty-three miles on
a north-north-west course.
We were detained on the 8th by a northerly gale, which blew violently
throughout the day, attended by fog and rain. Some of the men went out
to hunt, but they saw no other animal than a white wolf, which could not
be approached. The fresh meat being expended, a little pemmican was
served out this evening.
The gale abated on the morning of the 9th; and the sea, which it had
raised, having greatly subsided, we embarked at seven A.M., and after
paddling three or four miles, opened Sir J. A. Gordon's Bay, into which
we penetrated thirteen miles, and then discovered from the summit of a
hill that it would be vain to proceed in this direction, in search of a
passage out of the inlet.
Our breakfast diminished our provision to two bags of pemmican, and a
single meal of dried meat. The men began to apprehend absolute want of
food, and we had to listen to their gloomy forebodings of the deer
entirely quitting the coast in a few days. As we were embarking,
however, a large bear was discovered on the opposite shore, which we had
the good fortune to kill; and the sight of this fat meat relieved their
fears for the present. Dr. Richardson found in the stomach of this
animal the remains of a seal, several marmots (_arctomys Richardsonii_),
a large quantity of the liquorice root of Mackenzie (_hedysarum_) which
is common on these shores, and some berries. There was also intermixed
with these substances a small quantity of grass.
We got again into the main inlet, and paddled along its eastern shore
until forty minutes after eight A.M. when we encamped in a small cove.
We found a single log of drift wood; it was pine, and sufficiently large
to enable us to cook a portion of the bear, which had a slight fishy
taste, but was deemed very palatable.
_August 10_.--We followed up the east border of the inlet about
twenty-four miles, and at length emerged into the open sea; a body of
islands to the westward concealing the channel by which we had entered.
Here our progress was arrested by returning bad weather. We killed a
bear and its young cub of this year, on the beach near our encampment.
We heartily congratulated ourselves at having arrived at the eastern
entrance of this inlet, which had cost us nine invaluable days in
exploring. It contains several secure harbours, especially near the
mouth of Back's River, where there is a sandy bottom in forty fathoms.
On the 3d and 4th of August we observed a fall of more than two feet in
the water during the night. There are various irregular and partial
currents in the inlet, which may be attributed to the wind. I have
distinguished it by the name of Bathurst's Inlet, after the noble
Secretary of State, under whose orders I had the honour to act. It runs
about seventy-six miles south-east from Cape Everitt, but in coasting
its shores we went about one hundred and seventy-four geographical
miles. It is remarkable that none of the Indians with whom we had spoken
mentioned this inlet; and we subsequently learned, that in their
journeys, they strike across from the mouth of one river to the mouth of
another, without tracing the intermediate line of coast.
_August 11_.--Embarking at five A.M. we rounded Point Everitt, and then
encountered a strong breeze and heavy swell, which by causing the canoes
to pitch very much, greatly impeded our progress. Some deer being seen
grazing in a valley near the beach, we landed and sent St. Germain and
Adam in pursuit of them, who soon killed three which were very small and
lean. Their appearance, however, quite revived the spirits of our men,
who had suspected that the deer had retired to the woods. It would
appear, from our not having seen any in passing along the shores of
Bathurst's Inlet, that at this season they confine themselves to the
sea-coast and the islands. The magpie-berries (_arbutus alpina_) were
found quite ripe at this place, and very abundant on the acclivities of
the hills. We also descended the highest hill and gained a view of a
distant chain of islands, extending as far as the eye could reach, and
perceived a few patches of ice still lingering round to some of them;
but in every other part the sea was quite open. Resuming our voyage
after noon, we proceeded along the coast, which is fringed by islands;
and at five P.M., entered another bay, where we were for some time
involved in our late difficulties by the intricacy of the passages; but
we cleared them in the afternoon, and encamped near the northern
entrance of the bay, at a spot which had recently been visited by a
small party of Esquimaux, as the remains of some eggs containing young,
were lying beside some half-burnt fire-wood. There were also several
piles of stones put up by them. I have named this bay after my friend,
Captain David Buchan, of the Royal Navy. It appears to be a safe
anchorage, well sheltered from the wind and sea, by islands; the bottom
is sandy, the shores high, and composed of red sand-stone. Two deer were
seen on its beach, but could not be approached. The distance we made
to-day was eighteen miles and three quarters.
Embarking at four on the morning of the 12th, we proceeded against a
fresh piercing north-east wind, which raised the waves to a height that
quite terrified our people, accustomed only to the navigation of rivers
and lakes. We were obliged, however, to persevere in our advance,
feeling as we did, that the short season for our operations was
hastening away; but after rounding Cape Croker the wind became so strong
that we could proceed no further. The distance we had made was only six
miles on a north-east by east course. The shore on which we encamped is
formed of the debris of red sand-stone, and is destitute of vegetation.
The beach furnished no drift wood, and we dispensed with our usual meal
rather than expend our pemmican. Several deer were seen, but the hunters
could not approach them; they killed two swans. We observed the latitude
68° 1' 20", where we had halted to breakfast this morning.
_August 13_.--Though the wind was not much diminished, we were urged, by
the want of fire-wood, to venture upon proceeding. We paddled close to
the shore for some miles, and then ran before the breeze with reefed
sails, scarcely two feet in depth. Both the canoes received much water,
and one of them struck twice on sunken rocks. At the end of eighteen
miles we halted to breakfast in a bay, which I have named after
Vice-Admiral Sir William Johnstone Hope, one of the Lords of the
Admiralty.
We found here a considerable quantity of small willows, such as are
brought down by the rivers we had hitherto seen; and hence we judged,
that a river discharges itself into the bottom of this bay. A paddle was
also found, which Augustus, on examination, declared to be made after
the fashion of the White Goose Esquimaux, a tribe with whom his
countrymen had had some trading communication, as has been mentioned in
a former part of the Narrative.
This morning we passed the embouchure of a pretty large stream, and saw
the vestiges of an Esquimaux encampment, not above a month old. Having
obtained the latitude 68° 6' 40" N., we recommenced our voyage under
sail, taking the precaution to embark all the pieces of willow we could
collect, as we had found the drift-wood become more scarce as we
advanced. Our course was directed to a distant point, which we supposed
to be a cape, and the land stretching to the westward of it to be
islands; but we soon found ourselves in an extensive bay, from which no
outlet could be perceived but the one by which we had entered. On
examination, however, from the top of a hill, we perceived a winding
shallow passage running to the north-west, which we followed for a short
time, and then encamped having come twenty-three miles north by east
half east.
Some articles left by the Esquimaux attracted our attention; we found a
winter sledge raised upon four stones, with some snow-shovels, and a
small piece of whalebone. An ice-chisel, a knife and some beads were
left at this pile. The shores of this bay, which I have named after Sir
George Warrender, are low and clayey, and the country for many miles is
level, and much intersected with water; but we had not leisure to
ascertain whether they were branches of the bay or fresh-water lakes.
Some white geese were seen this evening, and some young gray ones were
caught on the beach being unable to fly. We fired at two rein-deer, but
without success.
On August 14th we paddled the whole day along the northern shores of the
sound, returning towards its mouth. The land which we were now tracing
is generally so flat, that it could not be descried from the canoes at
the distance of four miles, and is invisible from the opposite side of
the sound, otherwise a short traverse might have saved us some days. The
few eminences that are on this side were mistaken for islands when seen
from the opposite shore; they are for the most part cliffs of basalt,
and are not above one hundred feet high; the subjacent strata are of
white sand-stone. The rocks are mostly confined to the capes and shores,
the soil inland being flat, clayey, and barren. Most of the headlands
shewed traces of visits from the Esquimaux, but none of them recent.
Many ducks were seen, belonging to a species termed by the voyagers from
their cry, "caccawees." We also saw some gray geese and swans. The only
seal we procured during our voyage, was killed this day; it happened to
be blind, and our men imagining it to be in bad health would not taste
the flesh; we, however, were less nice.
We encamped at the end of twenty-four miles' march, on the north-west
side of a bay, to which I have given the name of my friend Capt. Parry,
now employed in the interesting research for a North-West Passage. Drift
wood had become very scarce, and we found none near the encampment; a
fire, however, was not required, as we served out pemmican for supper,
and the evening was unusually warm.
On the following morning the breeze was fresh and the waves rather high.
In paddling along the west side of Parry's Bay, we saw several deer,
but owing to the openness of the country, the hunters could not approach
them. They killed, however, two swans that were moulting, several cranes
and many gray geese. We procured also some caccawees, which were then
moulting, and assembled in immense flocks. In the evening, having
rounded Point Beechy, and passed Hurd's Islands, we were exposed to much
inconvenience and danger from a heavy rolling sea; the canoes receiving
many severe blows, and shipping a good deal of water, which induced us
to encamp at five P.M. opposite to Cape Croker, which we had passed on
the morning of the 12th; the channel which lay between our situation and
it, being about seven miles wide. We had now reached the northern point
of entrance into this sound, which I have named in honour of Lord
Viscount Melville, the first Lord of the Admiralty. It is thirty miles
wide from east to west, and twenty from north to south; and in coasting
it we had sailed eighty-seven and a quarter geographical miles. Shortly
after the tents were pitched, Mr. Back reported from the steersmen that
both canoes had sustained material injury during this day's voyage. I
found on examination that fifteen timbers of the first canoe were
broken, some of them in two places, and that the second canoe was so
loose in the frame that its timbers could not be bound in the usual
secure manner, and consequently there was danger of its bark separating
from the gunwales if exposed to a heavy sea. Distressing as were these
circumstances, they gave me less pain than the discovery that our
people, who had hitherto displayed in following us through dangers and
difficulties no less novel than appalling to them, a courage beyond our
expectation, now felt serious apprehensions for their safety, which so
possessed their minds that they were not restrained even by the presence
of their officers from expressing them. Their fears, we imagined, had
been principally excited by the interpreters, St. Germain and Adam, who
from the outset had foreboded every calamity; and we now strongly
suspected that their recent want of success in hunting had proceeded
from an intentional relaxation in their efforts to kill deer in order
that{33} the want of provision might compel us to put a period to our
voyage.
I must now mention that many concurrent circumstances had caused me,
during the few last days, to meditate on the approach of this painful
necessity. The strong breezes we had encountered for some days, led me
to fear that the season was breaking up, and severe weather would soon
ensue, which we could not sustain in a country destitute of fuel. Our
stock of provision was now reduced to a quantity of pemmican only
sufficient for three days' consumption, and the prospect of increasing
it was not encouraging, for though rein-deer were seen, they could not
be easily approached on the level shores we were now coasting, besides
it was to be apprehended they would soon migrate to the south. It was
evident that the time spent in exploring the Arctic and Melville Sounds,
and Bathurst's Inlet, had precluded the hope of reaching Repulse Bay,
which at the outset of the voyage we had fondly cherished; and it was
equally obvious that as our distance from any of the trading
establishments would increase as we proceeded, the hazardous traverse
across the barren grounds, which we should have to make, if compelled to
abandon the canoes upon any part of the coast, would become greater.
I this evening communicated to the officers my sentiments on these
points, as well as respecting our return, and was happy to find that
their opinions coincided with my own. We were all convinced of the
necessity of putting a speedy termination to our advance, as our hope of
meeting the Esquimaux and procuring provision from them, could now
scarcely be retained; but yet we were desirous of proceeding, until the
land should be seen trending again to the eastward; that we might be
satisfied of its separation from what we had conceived, in passing from
Cape Barrow to Bathurst's Inlet, to be a great chain of islands. As it
was needful, however, at all events, to set a limit to our voyage, I
announced my determination of returning after four days' examination,
unless, indeed, we should previously meet the Esquimaux, and be enabled
to make some arrangement for passing the winter with them. This
communication was joyfully received by the men, and we hoped that the
industry of our hunters being once more excited, we should be able to
add to our stock of provision.
It may here be remarked that we observed the first regular return of the
tides in Warrender's and Parry's Bays; but their set could not be
ascertained. The rise of water did not amount to more than two feet.
Course to-day south one quarter east--nine miles and a quarter.
_August 16_.--Some rain fell in the night, but the morning was unusually
fine. We set forward at five A.M., and the men paddled cheerfully along
the coast for ten miles, when a dense fog caused us to land on
Slate-clay Point. Here we found more traces of the Esquimaux, and the
skull of a man placed between two rocks. The fog dispersed at noon, and
we discerned a group of islands to the northward, which I have named
after Vice Admiral Sir George Cockburn, one of the Lords of the
Admiralty. Re-embarking, we rounded the point and entered Walker's Bay,
(so called after my friend Admiral Walker,) where, as in other
instances, the low beach which lay between several high trap cliffs,
could not be distinguished until we had coasted down the east side
nearly to the bottom of the bay. When the continuity of the land was
perceived, we crossed to the western shore, and on landing, discovered a
channel leading through a group of islands. Having passed through this
channel, we ran under sail by the Porden Islands, across Riley's Bay,
and rounding a cape which now bears the name of my lamented friend
Captain Flinders, had the pleasure to find the coast trending
north-north-east, with the sea in the offing unusually clear of islands;
a circumstance which afforded matter of wonder to our Canadians, who had
not previously had an uninterrupted view of the ocean.
Our course was continued along the coast until eight P.M. when a change
in the wind and a threatening thunder squall induced us to encamp; but
the water was so shallow, that we found some difficulty in approaching
the shore. Large pieces of drift-wood gave us assurance that we had
finally escaped from the bays. Our tents were scarcely pitched before
we were assailed by a heavy squall and rain, which was succeeded by a
violent gale from west-north-west, which thrice overset the tents during
the night. The wind blew with equal violence on the following day, and
the sea rolled furiously upon the beach. The Canadians had now an
opportunity of witnessing the effect of a storm upon the sea; and the
sight increased their desire of quitting it.
Our hunters were sent out, and saw many deer, but the flatness of the
country defeated their attempts to approach them; they brought, however,
a few unfledged geese. As there was no appearance of increasing our
stock of provision, the allowance was limited to a handful of pemmican,
and a small portion of portable soup to each man per day. The
thermometer this afternoon stood to 41°. The following observations were
obtained: latitude 68° 18' 50" N., longitude 110° 5' 15" W.; but 109°
25' 00" W. was used in the construction of the chart, as the
chronometers were found, on our return to Hood's River, to have altered
their rates; variation 44° 15' 46" E., and dip of the needle 89° 31'
12".
On August 18th the stormy weather and sea continuing, there was no
prospect of our being able to embark. Dr. Richardson, Mr. Back, and I,
therefore, set out on foot to discover whether the land within a day's
march, inclined more to the east. We went from ten to twelve miles along
the coast, which continued flat, and kept the same direction as the
encampment. The most distant land we saw had the same bearing
north-north-east, and appeared like two islands, which we estimated to
be six or seven miles off; the shore on their side seemingly tended more
to the east, so that is it probable Point Turnagain, for so this spot
was named, forms the pitch of a low flat cape.
Augustus killed a deer in the afternoon, but the men were not able to
find it. The hunters found the burrows of a number of white foxes, and
Hepburn killed one of these animals, which proved excellent eating,
equal to the young geese, with which it was boiled, and far superior to
the lean deer we had upon the coast. Large flocks of geese passed over
the tents, flying to the southward. The lowest temperature to-day was
38°.
Though it will appear from the chart, that the position of Point
Turnagain is only six degrees and a half to the east of the mouth of the
Copper-Mine River; we sailed, in tracing the deeply-indented coast, five
hundred and fifty-five geographic miles, which is little less than the
direct distance between the Copper-Mine River and Repulse Bay;
supposing the latter to be in the longitude assigned to it by Middleton.
When the many perplexing incidents which occurred during the survey of
the coast are considered, in connexion with the shortness of the period
during which operations of the kind can be carried on, and the distance
we had to travel before we could gain a place of shelter for the winter,
I trust it will be judged that we prosecuted the enterprise as far as
was prudent, and abandoned it only under a well-founded conviction that
a further advance would endanger the lives of the whole party, and
prevent the knowledge of what had been done from reaching England. The
active assistance I received from the officers, in contending with the
fears of the men, demands my warmest gratitude.
Our researches, as far as they have gone, favour the opinion of those
who contend for the practicability of a North-West Passage. The general
line of coast probably runs east and west, nearly in the latitude
assigned to Mackenzie's River, the Sound into which Kotzebue entered,
and Repulse Bay; and I think there is little doubt of a continued sea,
in or about that line of direction. The existence of whales too, on this
part of the coast, evidenced by the whalebone we found in Esquimaux
Cove, may be considered as an argument for an open sea; and a connexion
with Hudson's Bay is rendered more probable from the same kind of fish
abounding on the coasts we visited, and on those to the north of
Churchill River. I allude more particularly to the Capelin or Salmo
Arcticus, which we found in large shoals in Bathurst's Inlet, and which
not only abounds, as Augustus told us, in the bays in his country, but
swarms in the Greenland firths[12]. The portion of the sea over which we
passed is navigable for vessels of any size; the ice we met,
particularly after quitting Detention Harbour, would not have arrested a
strong boat. The chain of islands affords shelter from all heavy seas,
and there are good harbours at convenient distances. I entertain,
indeed, sanguine hopes that the skill and exertions of my friend Captain
Parry will soon render this question no longer problematical. His task
is doubtless an arduous one, and, if ultimately successful, may occupy
two and perhaps three seasons; but confiding as I do, from personal
knowledge, in his perseverance and talent for surmounting difficulties,
the strength of his ships, and the abundance of provisions with which
they are stored, I have very little apprehension of his safety. As I
understand his object was to keep the coast of America close on board,
he will find in the spring of the year, before the breaking up of the
ice can permit him to pursue his voyage, herds of deer flocking in
abundance to all parts of the coast, which may be procured without
difficulty; and, even later in the season, additions to his stock of
provision may be obtained on many parts of the coast, should
circumstances give him leisure to send out hunting parties. With the
trawl or seine nets also, he may almost every where get abundance of
fish even without retarding his progress. Under these circumstances I do
not conceive that he runs any hazard of wanting provisions, should his
voyage be prolonged even beyond the latest period of time which is
calculated upon. Drift timber may be gathered at many places in
considerable quantities, and there is a fair prospect of his opening a
communication with the Esquimaux, who come down to the coast to kill
seals in the spring, previous to the ice breaking up; and from whom, if
he succeeds in conciliating their good-will, he may obtain provision,
and much useful assistance.
[12] Arctic Zoology, vol. ii, p. 394.
If he makes for Copper-Mine River, as he probably will do, he will not
find it in the longitude as laid down on the charts; but he will
probably find, what would be more interesting to him, a post, which we
erected on the 26th August at the mouth of Hood's River, which is
nearly, as will appear hereafter, in that longitude, with a flag upon
it, and a letter at the foot of it, which may convey to him some useful
information. It is possible, however, that he may keep outside of the
range of islands which skirt this part of the coast.