Journey across the barren grounds--Difficulty and delay in crossing
Copper-Mine River--Melancholy and fatal Results thereof--Extreme
Misery of the whole Party--Murder of Mr. Hood--Death of several of
the Canadians--Desolate State of Fort Enterprise--Distress suffered
at that Place--Dr. Richardson's Narrative--Mr. Back's
Narrative--Conclusion.
1821. August 17.
My original intention, whenever the season should compel us to
relinquish the survey, had been to return by the Copper-Mine River, and
in pursuance of my arrangement with the Hook to travel to Slave Lake
through the line of woods extending thither by the Great Bear and Marten
Lakes, but our scanty stock of provision and the length of the voyage
rendered it necessary to make for a nearer place. We had already found
that the country, between Cape Barrow and the Copper-Mine River, would
not supply our wants, and this it seemed probable would now be still
more the case; besides, at this advanced season, we expected the
frequent recurrence of gales, which would cause great detention, if not
danger in proceeding along that very rocky part of the coast.
I determined, therefore, to make at once for Arctic Sound, where we had
found the animals more numerous than at any other place; and entering
Hood's River, to advance up that stream as far as it was navigable, and
then to construct small canoes out of the materials of the larger ones,
which could be carried in crossing the barren grounds to Fort
Enterprise.
_August 19_.--We were almost beaten out of our comfortless abodes by
rain during the night, and this morning the gale continued without
diminution. The thermometer fell to 33°. Two men were sent with Junius
to search for the deer which Augustus had killed. Junius returned in the
evening, bringing part of the meat, but owing to the thickness of the
weather, his companions parted from him and did not make their
appearance. Divine service was read. On the 20th we were presented with
the most chilling prospect, the small pools of water being frozen over,
the ground covered with snow, and the thermometer at the freezing point
at mid-day. Flights of geese were passing to the southward. The wind,
however, was more moderate, having changed to the eastward. Considerable
anxiety prevailing respecting Belanger and Michel, the two men who
strayed from Junius yesterday, the rest were sent out to look for them.
The search was successful, and they all returned in the evening. The
stragglers were much fatigued, and had suffered severely from the cold,
one of them having his thighs frozen, and what under our present
circumstances was most grievous, they had thrown away all the meat. The
wind during the night returned to the north-west quarter, blew more
violently than ever, and raised a very turbulent sea. The next day did
not improve our condition, the snow remained on the ground, and the
small pools were frozen. Our hunters were sent out, but they returned
after a fatiguing day's march without having seen any animals. We made a
scanty meal off a handful of pemmican, after which only half a bag
remained.
The wind abated after midnight, and the surf diminished rapidly, which
caused us to be on the alert at a very early hour on the 22d, but we had
to wait until six A.M. for the return of Augustus, who had continued out
all night on an unsuccessful pursuit of deer. It appears that he had
walked a few miles farther along the coast, than the party had done on
the 18th, and from a sketch he drew on the sand, we were confirmed in
our former opinion that the shore inclined more to the eastward beyond
Point Turnagain. He also drew a river of considerable size, that
discharges its waters into Walker's Bay; on the banks of which stream he
saw a piece of wood, such as the Esquimaux use in producing fire, and
other marks so fresh that he supposed they had recently visited the
spot. We therefore left several iron materials for them; and embarking
without delay, prepared to retrace our steps[13]. Our men, cheered by
the prospect of returning, shewed the utmost alacrity; and, paddling
with unusual vigour, carried us across Riley's and Walker's Bays, a
distance of twenty miles, before noon, when we landed on Slate-clay{34}
Point, as the wind had freshened too much to permit us to continue the
voyage. The whole party went to hunt, but returned without success in
the evening, drenched with the heavy rain which commenced soon after
they had set out. Several deer were seen, but could not be approached in
this naked country; and as our stock of pemmican did not admit of
serving out two meals, we went dinnerless to bed.
[13] It is a curious coincidence that our Expedition left Point
Turnagain on August 22d,--on the same day that Captain Parry
sailed out of Repulse Bay. The parties were then distant from
each other 539 miles.
Soon after our departure this day, a sealed tin-case, sufficiently
buoyant to float, was thrown overboard, containing a short account of
our proceedings, and the position of the most conspicuous points. The
wind blew off the land, the water was smooth, and as the sea is in this
part more free from islands than in any other, there was every
probability of its being driven off the shore into the current; which as
I have before mentioned, we suppose, from the circumstance of
Mackenzie's River being the only known stream that brings down the wood
we have found along the shores, to set to the eastward.
_August 23_.--A severe frost caused us to pass a comfortless night. At
two P.M. we set sail, and the men voluntarily launched out to make a
traverse of fifteen miles across Melville Sound, before a strong wind
and heavy sea. The privation of food, under which our voyagers were then
labouring, absorbed every other terror; otherwise the most powerful
persuasion could not have induced them to attempt such a traverse. It
was with the utmost difficulty that the canoes were kept from turning
their broadsides to the waves, though we sometimes steered with all the
paddles. One of them narrowly escaped being overset by this accident,
which occurred in a mid-channel, where the waves were so high that the
masthead of our canoe was often hid from the other, though it was
sailing within hail.
The traverse, however, was made; we were then near a high rocky lee
shore, on which a heavy surf was beating. The wind being on the beam,
the canoes drifted fast to leeward; and, on rounding a point, the
recoil of the sea from the rocks was so great that they were with
difficulty kept from foundering. We looked in vain for a sheltered bay
to land in; but, at length, being unable to weather another point, we
were obliged to put ashore on the open beach, which fortunately was
sandy at this spot. The debarkation was effected fortunately, without
further injury than splitting the head of the second canoe, which was
easily repaired.
Our encampment being near the spot where we killed the deer on the 11th,
almost the whole party went out to hunt, but returned in the evening
without having seen any game. The berries, however, were ripe and
plentiful, and, with the addition of some country tea, furnished a
supper. There were some showers in the afternoon, and the weather was
cold, the thermometer being 42°, but the evening and night were calm and
fine. It may be remarked that the musquitoes disappeared when the late
gales commenced.
_August 24_.--Embarking at three A.M., we stretched across the eastern
entrance of Bathurst's Inlet, and arrived at an island, which I have
named after the Right Hon. Colonel Barry, of Newton Barry. Some deer
being seen on the beach, the hunters went in pursuit of them, and
succeeded in killing three females, which enabled us to save our last
remaining meal of pemmican. They saw also some fresh tracks of musk-oxen
on the banks of a small stream which flowed into a lake in the centre of
the island. These animals must have crossed a channel, at least, three
miles wide, to reach the nearest of these islands. Some specimens of
variegated pebbles and jasper were found here imbedded in the
amygdaloidal rock.
Re-embarking at two P.M., and continuing through what was supposed to be
a channel between two islands, we found our passage barred by a gravelly
isthmus of only ten yards in width; the canoes and cargoes were carried
across it, and we passed into Bathurst's Inlet through another similar
channel, bounded on both sides by steep rocky hills. The wind then
changing from S.E. to N.W. brought heavy rain, and we encamped at seven
P.M., having advanced eighteen miles.
_August 25_.--Starting this morning with a fresh breeze in our favour,
we soon reached that part of Barry's Island where the canoes were
detained on the 2d and 3d of this month, and contrary to what we then
experienced, the deer were now plentiful. The hunters killed two, and
relieved us from all apprehension of immediate want of food. From their
assembling at this time in such numbers on the islands nearest to the
coast, we conjectured that they were about to retire to the main shore.
Those we saw were generally females with their young, and all of them
very lean.
The wind continued in the same direction until we had rounded Point
Wollaston, and then changed to a quarter, which enabled us to steer for
Hood's River, which we ascended as high as the first rapid and encamped.
Here terminated our voyage on the Arctic Sea, during which we had gone
over six hundred and fifty geographical miles. Our Canadian voyagers
could not restrain their joy at having turned their backs on the sea,
and passed the evening in talking over their past adventures with much
humour and no little exaggeration. The consideration that the most
painful, and certainly the most hazardous part of the journey was yet to
come, did not depress their spirits at all. It is due to their character
to mention that they displayed much courage in encountering the dangers
of the sea, magnified to them by their novelty.
The shores between Cape Barrow and Cape Flinders, including the
extensive branches of Arctic and Melville Sounds, and Bathurst's Inlet,
may be comprehended in one great gulf, which I have distinguished by the
appellation of George IV.'s Coronation Gulf, in honour of His Most
Gracious Majesty, the latter name being added to mark the time of its
discovery. The Archipelago of islands which fringe the coast from
Copper-Mine River to Point Turnagain, I have named in honour of His
Royal Highness the Duke of York.
It may be deserving of notice that the extremes in temperature of the
sea water during our voyage were 53° and 35°, but its general
temperature was between 43° and 48°. Throughout our return from Point
Turnagain we observed that the sea had risen several feet above marks
left at our former encampments. This may, perhaps, be attributed to the
north-west gales.
_August 26_.--Previous to our departure this morning an assortment of
iron materials, beads, looking-glasses, and other articles were put up
in a conspicuous situation for the Esquimaux, and the English Union was
planted on the loftiest sand-hill, where it might be seen by any ships
passing in the offing. Here also, was deposited in a tin box, a letter
containing an outline of our proceedings, the latitude and longitude of
the principal places, and the course we intended to pursue towards Slave
Lake.
Embarking at eight A.M. we proceeded up the river which is full of sandy
shoals, but sufficiently deep for canoes in the channels. It is from
one hundred to two hundred yards wide, and is bounded by high and steep
banks of clay. We encamped at a cascade of eighteen or twenty feet high,
which is produced by a ridge of rock crossing the river, and the nets
were set. A mile below this cascade Hood's River is joined by a stream
half its own size, which I have called James' Branch. Bear and deer
tracks had been numerous on the banks of the river when we were here
before, but not a single recent one was to be seen at this time. Crédit,
however, killed a small deer at some distance inland, which, with the
addition of berries, furnished a delightful repast this evening. The
weather was remarkably fine, and the temperature so mild, that the
musquitoes again made their appearance, but not in any great numbers.
Our distance made to-day was not more than six miles.
The next morning the net furnished us with ten white fish and trout.
Having made a further deposit of iron work for the Esquimaux we pursued
our voyage up the river, but the shoals and rapids in this part were so
frequent, that we walked along the banks the whole day, and the crews
laboured hard in carrying the canoes thus lightened over the shoals or
dragging them up the rapids, yet our journey in a direct line was only
about seven miles. In the evening we encamped at the lower end of a
narrow chasm through which the river flows for upwards of a mile. The
walls of this chasm are upwards of two hundred feet high, quite
perpendicular, and in some places only a few yards apart. The river
precipitates itself into it over a rock, forming two magnificent and
picturesque falls close to each other. The upper fall is about sixty
feet high, and the lower one at least one hundred; but perhaps
considerably more, for the narrowness of the chasm into which it fell
prevented us from seeing its bottom, and we could merely discern the top
of the spray far beneath our feet. The lower fall is divided into two,
by an insulated column of rock which rises about forty feet above it.
The whole descent of the river at this place probably exceeds two
hundred and fifty feet. The rock is very fine felspathose
sand-stone{35}. It has a smooth surface and a light red colour. I have
named these magnificent cascades "Wilberforce Falls," as a tribute of my
respect for that distinguished philanthropist{36} and christian. Messrs.
Back and Hood took beautiful sketches of this majestic scene.
The river being surveyed from the summit of a hill, above these falls,
appeared so rapid and shallow, that it seemed useless to attempt
proceeding any farther in the large canoes. I therefore determined on
constructing out of their materials two smaller ones of sufficient size
to contain three persons, for the purpose of crossing any river that
might obstruct our progress. This operation was accordingly commenced,
and by the 31st both the canoes being finished, we prepared for our
departure on the following day.
The leather which had been preserved for making shoes was equally
divided among the men, two pairs of flannel socks were given to each
person, and such articles of warm clothing as remained, were issued to
those who most required them. They were also furnished with one of the
officers' tents. This being done, I communicated to the men my intention
of proceeding in as direct a course as possible to the part of Point
Lake, opposite our spring encampment, which was only distant one hundred
and forty-nine miles in a straight line. They received the communication
cheerfully, considered the journey to be short, and left me in high
spirits, to arrange their own packages. The stores, books, _&c._, which
were not absolutely necessary to be carried, were then put up in boxes
to be left _en cache_ here, in order that the men's burdens might be as
light as possible.
The next morning was warm, and very fine. Every one was on the alert at
an early hour, being anxious to commence the journey. Our luggage
consisted of ammunition, nets, hatchets, ice chisels, astronomical
instruments, clothing, blankets, three kettles, and the two canoes,
which were each carried by one man. The officers carried such a portion
of their own things as their strength would permit; the weight carried
by each man was about ninety pounds, and with this we advanced at the
rate of about a mile an hour, including rests. In the evening the
hunters killed a lean cow, out of a large drove of musk-oxen; but the
men were too much laden to carry more than a small portion of its flesh.
The alluvial soil, which towards the mouth of the river spreads into
plains, covered with grass and willows, was now giving place to a more
barren and hilly country; so that we could but just collect sufficient
brushwood{37} to cook our suppers. The part of the river we skirted this
day was shallow, and flowed over a bed of sand; its width about one
hundred and twenty yards. About midnight our tent was blown down by a
squall, and we were completely drenched with rain before it could be
re-pitched.
On the morning of the 1st of September a fall of snow took place; the
canoes became a cause of delay, from the difficulty of carrying them in
a high wind, and they sustained much damage through the falls of those
who had charge of them. The face of the country was broken by hills of
moderate elevation, but the ground was plentifully strewed with small
stones, which, to men bearing heavy burdens, and whose feet were
protected only by soft moose skin shoes, occasioned great pain. At the
end of eleven miles we encamped, and sent for a musk-ox and a deer,
which St. Germain and Augustus had killed. The day was extremely cold,
the thermometer varying between 34° and 36°. In the afternoon a heavy
fall of snow took place, on the wind changing from north-west to
south-west. We found no wood at the encampment, but made a fire of moss
to cook the supper, and crept under our blankets for warmth. At sunrise
the thermometer was at 31°, and the wind fresh from north-west; but the
weather became mild in the course of the forenoon, and the snow
disappeared from the gravel. The afternoon was remarkably fine, and the
thermometer rose to 50°. One of the hunters killed a musk-ox. The hills
in this part are lower, and more round-backed than those we passed
yesterday, exhibiting but little naked rock; they were covered with
lichens.
Having ascertained from the summit of the highest hill near the tents,
that the river continued to preserve a west course; and fearing that by
pursuing it further we might lose much time, and unnecessarily walk over
a great deal of ground, I determined on quitting its banks the next day,
and making as directly as we could for Point Lake. We accordingly
followed the river on the 3d, only to the place where the musk-ox had
been killed last evening, and after the meat was procured, crossed the
river in our two canoes lashed together. We now emerged from the valley
of the river, and entered a level, but very barren, country, varied only
by small lakes and marshes, the ground being covered with small stones.
Many old tracks of rein-deer were seen in the clayey soil, and some more
recent traces of the musk-ox. We encamped on the borders of Wright's
River, which flows to the eastward; the direct distance walked to-day
being ten miles and three-quarters. The next morning was very fine, and,
as the day advanced, the weather became quite warm. We set out at six
A.M., and, having forded the river, walked over a perfectly level
country, interspersed with small lakes, which communicated with each
other, by streams running in various directions. No berry-bearing plants
were found in this part, the surface of the earth being thinly covered
in the moister places with a few grasses, and on the drier spots with
lichens.
Having walked twelve miles and a half, we encamped at seven P.M., and
distributed our last piece of pemmican, and a little arrow-root for
supper, which afforded but a scanty meal. This evening was warm, but
dark clouds overspread the sky. Our men now began to find their burdens
very oppressive, and were much fatigued by this day's march, but did not
complain. One of them was lame from an inflammation in the knee. Heavy
rain commenced at midnight, and continued without intermission until
five in the morning, when it was succeeded by snow on the wind changing
to north-west, which soon increased to a violent gale. As we had nothing
to eat, and were destitute of the means of making a fire, we remained in
our beds all the day; but the covering of our blankets was insufficient
to prevent us from feeling the severity of the frost, and suffering
inconvenience from the drifting of the snow into our tents. There was no
abatement of the storm next day; our tents were completely frozen, and
the snow had drifted around them to a depth of three feet, and even in
the inside there was a covering of several inches on our blankets. Our
suffering from cold, in a comfortless canvass tent in such weather, with
the temperature at 20°, and without fire, will easily be imagined; it
was, however, less than that which we felt from hunger.
The morning of the 7th cleared up a little, but the wind was still
strong, and the weather extremely cold. From the unusual continuance of
the storm, we feared the winter had set in with all its rigour, and that
by longer delay we should only be exposed to an accumulation of
difficulties; we therefore prepared for our journey, although we were in
a very unfit condition for starting, being weak from fasting, and our
garments stiffened by the frost. We had no means of making a fire to
thaw them, the moss, at all times difficult to kindle, being now covered
with ice and snow. A considerable time was consumed in packing up the
frozen tents and bed clothes, the wind blowing so strong that no one
could keep his hands long out of his mittens.
Just as we were about to commence our march, I was seized with a
fainting fit, in consequence of exhaustion and sudden exposure to the
wind; but after eating a morsel of portable soup, I recovered so far as
to be able to move on. I was unwilling at first to take this morsel of
soup, which was diminishing the small and only remaining meal for the
party; but several of the men urged me to it, with much kindness. The
ground was covered a foot deep with snow, the margins of the lakes were
incrusted with ice, and the swamps over which we had to pass were
entirely frozen; but the ice not being sufficiently strong to bear us,
we frequently plunged knee-deep in water. Those who carried the canoes
were repeatedly blown down by the violence of the wind, and they often
fell, from making an insecure step on a slippery stone; on one of these
occasions, the largest canoe was so much broken as to be rendered
utterly unserviceable. This we felt was a serious disaster, as the
remaining canoe having through mistake been made too small, it was
doubtful whether it would be sufficient to carry us across a river.
Indeed we had found it necessary in crossing Hood's River, to lash the
two canoes together. As there was some suspicion that Benoit, who
carried the canoe, had broken it intentionally, he having on a former
occasion been overheard by some of the men to say, that he would do so
when he got it in charge, we closely examined him on the point; he
roundly denied having used the expressions attributed to him, and
insisted that it was broken by his falling accidentally; and as he
brought men to attest the latter fact, who saw him tumble, we did not
press the matter further. I may here remark that our people had murmured
a good deal at having to carry two canoes, though they were informed of
the necessity of taking both, in case it should be deemed advisable to
divide the party; which it had been thought probable we should be
obliged to do if animals proved scarce, in order to give the whole the
better chance of procuring subsistence, and also for the purpose of
sending forward some of the best walkers to search for Indians, and to
get them to meet us with supplies of provision. The power of doing this
was now at an end. As the accident could not be remedied, we turned it
to the best account, by making a fire of the bark and timbers of the
broken vessel, and cooked the remainder of our portable soup and
arrow-root. This was a scanty meal after three days' fasting, but it
served to allay the pangs of hunger, and enabled us to proceed at a
quicker pace than before. The depth of the snow caused us to march in
Indian file, that is in each other's steps; the voyagers taking it in
turn to lead the party. A distant object was pointed out to this man in
the direction we wished to take, and Mr. Hood followed immediately
behind him, to renew the bearings, and keep him from deviating more than
could be helped from the mark. It may be here observed, that we
proceeded in this manner throughout our route across the barren grounds.
In the afternoon we got into a more hilly country, where the ground was
strewed with large stones. The surface of these was covered with lichens
of the genus _gyrophora_, which the Canadians term _tripe de roche_. A
considerable quantity was gathered, and with half a partridge each,
(which we shot in the course of the day,) furnished a slender supper,
which we cooked with a few willows, dug up from beneath the snow. We
passed a comfortless night in our damp clothes, but took the precaution
of sleeping upon our socks and shoes to prevent them from freezing. This
plan was afterwards adopted throughout the journey.
At half past five in the morning we proceeded; and after walking about
two miles, came to Cracroft's River, flowing to the westward, with a
very rapid current over a rocky channel. We had much difficulty in
crossing this, the canoe being useless, not only from the bottom of the
channel being obstructed by large stones, but also from its requiring
gumming, an operation which, owing to the want of wood and the frost, we
were unable to perform. However, after following the course of the river
some distance we effected a passage by means of a range of large rocks
that crossed a rapid. As the current was strong, and many of the rocks
were covered with water to the depth of two or three feet, the men were
exposed to much danger in carrying their heavy burdens across, and
several of them actually slipped into the stream, but were immediately
rescued by the others. Junius went farther up the river in search of a
better crossing-place and did not rejoin us this day. As several of the
party were drenched from head to foot, and we were all wet to the
middle, our clothes became stiff with the frost, and we walked with much
pain for the remainder of the day. The march was continued to a late
hour from our anxiety to rejoin the hunters who had gone before, but we
were obliged to encamp at the end of ten miles and a quarter, without
seeing them. Our only meal to-day consisted of a partridge each (which
the hunters shot,) mixed with _tripe de roche_. This repast, although
scanty for men with appetites such as our daily fatigue created, proved
a cheerful one, and was received with thankfulness. Most of the men had
to sleep in the open air, in consequence of the absence of Crédit, who
carried their tent; but we fortunately found an unusual quantity of
roots to make a fire, which prevented their suffering much from the
cold, though the thermometer was at 17°.
We started at six on the 9th, and at the end of two miles regained our
hunters, who were halting on the borders of a lake amidst a clump of
stunted willows. This lake stretched to the westward as far as we could
see, and its waters were discharged by a rapid stream one hundred and
fifty yards wide. Being entirely ignorant where we might be led by
pursuing the course of the lake, and dreading the idea of going a mile
unnecessarily out of the way, we determined on crossing the river if
possible; and the canoe was gummed for the purpose, the willows
furnishing us with fire. But we had to await the return of Junius before
we could make the traverse. In the mean time we gathered a little _tripe
de roche_, and breakfasted upon it and a few partridges that were killed
in the morning. St. Germain and Adam were sent upon some recent tracks
of deer. Junius arrived in the afternoon and informed us that he had
seen a large herd of musk-oxen on the banks of Cracroft's River, and had
wounded one of them, but it escaped. He brought about four pounds of
meat, the remains of a deer that had been devoured by the wolves. The
poor fellow was much fatigued, having walked throughout the night, but
as the weather was particularly favourable for our crossing the river,
we could not allow him to rest. After he had taken some refreshment we
proceeded to the river. The canoe being put into the water was found
extremely ticklish, but it was managed with much dexterity by St.
Germain, Adam, and Peltier, who ferried over one passenger at a time,
causing him to lie flat in its bottom, by no means a pleasant position,
owing to its leakiness, but there was no alternative. The transport of
the whole party was effected by five o'clock and we walked about two
miles further and encamped, having come five miles and three quarters on
a south-west course. Two young alpine hares were shot by St. Germain,
which, with the small piece of meat brought in by Junius, furnished the
supper of the whole party. There was no _tripe de roche_ here. The
country had now become decidedly hilly, and was covered with snow. The
lake preserved its western direction, as far as I could see from the
summit of the highest mountain near the encampment. We subsequently
learned from the Copper Indians, that the part at which we had crossed
the river was the _Congecatha-wha-chaga_ of Hearne, of which I had
little idea at the time, not only from the difference of latitude, but
also from its being so much further east of the mouth of the Copper-Mine
River, than his track is laid down; he only making one degree and three
quarters' difference of longitude, and we, upwards of four. Had I been
aware of the fact, several days' harassing march, and a disastrous
accident would have been prevented by keeping on the western side of
the lake, instead of crossing the river. We were informed also, that
this river is the Anatessy or River of Strangers, and is supposed to
fall into Bathurst's Inlet; but although the Indians have visited its
mouth, their description was not sufficient to identify it with any of
the rivers whose mouths we had seen. It probably discharges itself in
that part of the coast which was hid from our view by Goulbourn's or
Elliott's Islands.
_September 10_.--We had a cold north wind, and the atmosphere was foggy.
The thermometer 18° at five A.M. In the course of our march this
morning, we passed many small lakes; and the ground becoming higher and
more hilly as we receded from the river, was covered to a much greater
depth with snow. This rendered walking not only extremely laborious, but
also hazardous in the highest degree; for the sides of the hills, as is
usual throughout the barren grounds, abounding in accumulations of large
angular stones, it often happened that the men fell into the interstices
with their loads on their backs, being deceived by the smooth appearance
of the drifted snow. If any one had broken a limb here, his fate would
have been melancholy indeed; we could neither have remained with him,
nor carried him on. We halted at ten to gather _tripe de roche_, but it
was so frozen, that we were quite benumbed with cold before a
sufficiency could be collected even for a scanty meal. On proceeding our
men were somewhat cheered, by observing on the sandy summit of a hill,
from whence the snow had been blown, the summer track of a man; and
afterwards by seeing several deer tracks on the snow. About noon the
weather cleared up a little, and to our great joy, we saw a herd of
musk-oxen grazing in a valley below us. The party instantly halted, and
the best hunters were sent out; they approached the animals with the
utmost caution, no less than two hours being consumed before they got
within gun-shot. In the mean time we beheld their proceedings with
extreme anxiety, and many secret prayers were, doubtless, offered up for
their success. At length they opened their fire, and we had the
satisfaction of seeing one of the largest cows fall; another was
wounded, but escaped. This success infused spirit into our starving
party. To skin and cut up the animal was the work of a few minutes. The
contents of its stomach were devoured upon the spot, and the raw
intestines, which were next attacked, were pronounced by the most
delicate amongst us to be excellent. A few willows, whose tops were seen
peeping through the snow in the bottom of the valley, were quickly
grubbed, the tents pitched, and supper cooked, and devoured with
avidity. This was the sixth day since we had had a good meal; the _tripe
de roche_, even where we got enough, only serving to allay the pangs of
hunger for a short time. After supper, two of the hunters went in
pursuit of the herd, but could not get near them. I do not think that we
witnessed through the course of our journey a more striking proof of the
wise dispensation of the Almighty, and of the weakness of our own
judgment than on this day. We had considered the dense fog which
prevailed throughout the morning, as almost the greatest inconvenience
that could have befallen us, since it rendered the air extremely cold,
and prevented us from distinguishing any distant object towards which
our course could be directed. Yet this very darkness enabled the party
to get to the top of the hill which bounded the valley wherein the
musk-oxen were grazing, without being perceived. Had the herd discovered
us and taken alarm, our hunters in their present state of debility would
in all probability have failed in approaching them.
We were detained all the next day by a strong southerly wind, and were
much incommoded in the tents by the drift snow. The temperature was 20°.
The average for the last ten days about 24°. We restricted ourselves to
one meal this day, as we were at rest, and there was only meat
remaining sufficient for the morrow.
The gale had not diminished on the 12th, and, as we were fearful of its
continuance for some time, we determined on going forward; our only
doubt regarded the preservation of the canoe, but the men promised to
pay particular attention to it, and the most careful persons were
appointed to take it in charge. The snow was two feet deep and the
ground much broken, which rendered the march extremely painful. The
whole party complained more of faintness and weakness than they had ever
done before; their strength seemed to have been impaired by the recent
supply of animal food. In the afternoon the wind abated, and the snow
ceased; cheered with the change, we proceeded forward at a quicker pace,
and encamped at six P.M., having come eleven miles. Our supper consumed
the last of our meat.
We set out on the 13th, in thick hazy weather, and, after an hour's
march, had the extreme mortification to find ourselves on the borders of
a large lake; neither of its extremities could be seen, and as the
portion which lay to the east seemed the widest, we coasted along to the
westward portion in search of a crossing-place. This lake being bounded
by steep and lofty hills, our march was very fatiguing. Those sides
which were exposed to the sun, were free from snow, and we found upon
them some excellent berries. We encamped at six P.M., having come only
six miles and a half. Crédit was then missing, and he did not return
during the night. We supped off a single partridge and some _tripe de
roche_; this unpalatable weed was now quite nauseous to the whole party,
and in several it produced bowel complaints. Mr. Hood was the greatest
sufferer from this cause. This evening we were extremely distressed, at
discovering that our improvident companions, since we left Hood's River
had thrown away three of the fishing-nets, and burnt the floats; they
knew we had brought them to procure subsistence for the party, when the
animals should fail, and we could scarcely believe the fact of their
having wilfully deprived themselves of this resource, especially when we
considered that most of them had passed the greater part of their
servitude in situations where the nets alone had supplied them with
food. Being thus deprived of our principal resource, that of fishing,
and the men evidently getting weaker every day, it became necessary to
lighten their burdens of every thing except ammunition, clothing, and
the instruments that were required to find our way. I, therefore, issued
directions to deposit at this encampment the dipping needle, azimuth
compass, magnet, a large thermometer, and a few books we had carried,
having torn out of these, such parts as we should require to work the
observations for latitude and longitude. I also promised, as an
excitement to the efforts in hunting, my gun to St. Germain, and an
ample compensation to Adam, or any of the other men who should kill any
animals. Mr. Hood, on this occasion, lent his gun to Michel, the
Iroquois, who was very eager in the chase, and often successful.
_September 14_.--This morning the officers being assembled round a small
fire, Perrault presented each of us with a small piece of meat which he
had saved from his allowance. It was received with great thankfulness,
and such an act of self-denial and kindness, being totally unexpected in
a Canadian voyager, filled our eyes with tears. In directing our course
to a river issuing from the lake, we met Crédit, who communicated the
joyful intelligence of his having killed two deer in the morning. We
instantly halted, and having shared the deer that was nearest to us,
prepared breakfast. After which, the other deer was sent for, and we
went down to the river, which was about three hundred yards wide, and
flowed with great velocity through a broken rocky channel. Having
searched for a part where the current was most smooth, the canoe was
placed in the water at the head of a rapid, and St. Germain, Solomon
Belanger, and I, embarked in order to cross. We went from the shore very
well, but in mid-channel the canoe became difficult to manage under our
burden as the breeze was fresh. The current drove us to the edge of the
rapid, when Belanger unluckily applied his paddle to avert the apparent
danger of being forced down it, and lost his balance. The canoe was
overset in consequence in the middle of the rapid. We fortunately kept
hold of it, until we touched a rock where the water did not reach higher
than our waists; here we kept our footing, notwithstanding the strength
of the current, until the water was emptied out of the canoe. Belanger
then held the canoe steady whilst St. Germain placed me in it, and
afterwards embarked himself in a very dextrous manner. It was
impossible, however, to embark Belanger, as the canoe would have been
hurried down the rapid, the moment he should have raised his foot from
the rock on which he stood. We were, therefore, compelled to leave him
in his perilous situation. We had not gone twenty yards before the
canoe, striking on a sunken rock, went down. The place being shallow, we
were again enabled to empty it, and the third attempt brought us to the
shore. In the mean time Belanger was suffering extremely, immersed to
his middle in the centre of a rapid, the temperature of which was very
little above the freezing point, and the upper part of his body covered
with wet clothes, exposed in a temperature not much above zero, to a
strong breeze. He called piteously for relief, and St. Germain on his
return endeavoured to embark him, but in vain. The canoe was hurried
down the rapid, and when he landed he was rendered by the cold incapable
of further exertion, and Adam attempted to embark Belanger, but found it
impossible. An attempt was next made to carry out to him a line, made of
the slings of the men's loads. This also failed, the current acting so
strongly upon it, as to prevent the canoe from steering, and it was
finally broken and carried down the stream. At length, when Belanger's
strength seemed almost exhausted, the canoe reached him with a small
cord belonging to one of the nets, and he was dragged perfectly
senseless through the rapid. By the direction of Dr. Richardson, he was
instantly stripped, and being rolled up in blankets, two men undressed
themselves and went to bed with him: but it was some hours before he
recovered his warmth and sensations. As soon as Belanger was placed in
his bed, the officers sent over my blankets, and a person to make a
fire. Augustus brought the canoe over, and in returning he was obliged
to descend both the rapids, before he could get across the stream; which
hazardous service he performed with the greatest coolness and judgment.
It is impossible to describe my sensations as I witnessed the various
unsuccessful attempts to relieve Belanger. The distance prevented my
seeing distinctly what was going on, and I continued pacing up and down
upon the rock on which I landed, regardless of the coldness of my
drenched and stiffening garments. The canoe, in every attempt to reach
him, was hurried down the rapid, and was lost to view amongst the rocky
islets, with a rapidity that seemed to threaten certain destruction;
once, indeed, I fancied that I saw it overwhelmed in the waves. Such an
event would have been fatal to the whole party. Separated as I was from
my companions, without gun, ammunition, hatchet, or the means of making
a fire, and in wet clothes, my doom would have been speedily sealed. My
companions too, driven to the necessity of coasting the lake, must have
sunk under the fatigue of rounding its innumerable arms and bays, which,
as we have learned from the Indians, are very extensive. By the goodness
of Providence, however, we were spared at that time, and some of us have
been permitted to offer up our thanksgivings, in a civilized land, for
the signal deliverances we then and afterwards experienced.
By this accident I had the misfortune to lose my portfolio{38},
containing my journal from Fort Enterprise, together with all the
astronomical and meteorological observations made during the descent of
the Copper-Mine River, and along the sea-coast, (except those for the
dip and variation.) I was in the habit of carrying it strapped across my
shoulders, but had taken it off on entering the canoe, to reduce the
upper weight. The results of most of the observations for latitude and
longitude, had been registered in the sketch books, so that we preserved
the requisites for the construction of the chart. The meteorological
observations, not having been copied, were lost. My companions, Dr.
Richardson, Mr. Back, and Mr. Hood, had been so careful in noting every
occurrence in their journals, that the loss of mine could fortunately be
well supplied. These friends immediately offered me their documents, and
every assistance in drawing up another narrative, of which kindness I
availed myself at the earliest opportunity afterwards.
_September 15_.--The rest of the party were brought across this morning,
and we were delighted to find Belanger so much recovered as to be able
to proceed, but we could not set out until noon, as the men had to
prepare substitutes for the slings which were lost yesterday. Soon after
leaving the encampment we discerned a herd of deer, and after a long
chase a fine male was killed by Perrault, several others were wounded
but they escaped. After this we passed round the north end of a branch
of the lake, and ascended the Willingham Mountains, keeping near the
border of the lake. These hills were steep, craggy, and covered with
snow. We encamped at seven and enjoyed a substantial meal. The party
were in good spirits this evening at the recollection of having crossed
the rapid, and being in possession of provision for the next day.
Besides we had taken the precaution of bringing away the skin of the
deer to eat when the meat should fail. The temperature at six P.M. was
30°.
We started at seven next morning and marched until ten, when the
appearance of a few willows peeping through the snow induced us to halt
and breakfast. Recommencing the journey at noon, we passed over a more
rugged country, where the hills were separated by deep ravines, whose
steep sides were equally difficult to descend and to ascend, and the
toil and suffering we experienced were greatly increased.
The party was quite fatigued, when we encamped, having come ten miles
and three quarters. We observed many summer deer roads, and some recent
tracks. Some marks that had been put up by the Indians were also
noticed. We have since learned that this is a regular deer pass, and on
that account, annually frequented by the Copper Indians. The lake is
called by them Contwoy-to, or Rum Lake; in consequence of Mr. Hearne
having here given the Indians who accompanied him some of that liquor.
Fish is not found here.
We walked next day over a more level country, but it was strewed with
large stones. These galled our feet a good deal; we contrived, however,
to wade through the snow at a tolerably quick pace until five P.M.,
having proceeded twelve miles and a half. We had made to-day our proper
course, south by east, which we could not venture upon doing before, for
fear of falling again upon some branch of the Contwoy-to. Some deer were
seen in the morning, but the hunters failed of killing any, and in the
afternoon we fell into the track of a large herd, which had passed the
day before, but did not overtake them. In consequence of this want of
success we had no breakfast, and but a scanty supper; but we allayed the
pangs of hunger, by eating pieces of singed hide. A little _tripe de
roche_[14] was also obtained. These would have satisfied us in ordinary
times, but we were now almost exhausted by slender fare and travel, and
our appetites had become ravenous. We looked, however, with humble
confidence to the Great Author and Giver of all good, for a continuance
of the support which had hitherto been always supplied to us at our
greatest need. The thermometer varied to-day between 25° and 28°. The
wind blew fresh from the south.
[14] The different kinds of _gyrophora_, are termed indiscriminately
by the voyagers, _tripe de roche_.
On the 18th the atmosphere was hazy, but the day was more pleasant for
walking than usual. The country was level and gravelly, and the snow
very deep. We went for a short time along a deeply-beaten road made by
the rein-deer, which turned suddenly off to the south-west, a direction
so wide of our course that we could not venture upon following it. All
the small lakes were frozen, and we marched across those which lay in
our track. We supped off the _tripe de roche_ which had been gathered
during our halts in the course of the march. Thermometer at six P.M.
32°.
Showers of snow fell without intermission through the night, but they
ceased in the morning, and we set out at the usual hour. The men were
very faint from hunger, and marched with difficulty, having to oppose a
fresh breeze, and to wade through snow two feet deep. We gained,
however, ten miles by four o'clock, and then encamped. The canoe was
unfortunately broken by the fall of the person who had it in charge. No
_tripe de roche_ was seen to-day, but in clearing the snow to pitch the
tents we found a quantity of Iceland moss, which was boiled for supper.
This weed, not having been soaked, proved so bitter, that few of the
party could eat more than a few spoonfuls.
Our blankets did not suffice this evening to keep us in tolerable
warmth; the slightest breeze seeming to pierce through our debilitated
frames. The reader will, probably, be desirous to know how we passed our
time in such a comfortless situation: the first operation after
encamping was to thaw our frozen shoes, if a sufficient fire could be
made, and dry ones were put on; each person then wrote his notes of the
daily occurrences, and evening prayers were read; as soon as supper was
prepared it was eaten, generally in the dark, and we went to bed, and
kept up a cheerful conversation until our blankets were thawed by the
heat of our bodies, and we had gathered sufficient warmth to enable us
to fall asleep. On many nights we had not even the luxury of going to
bed in dry clothes, for when the fire was insufficient to dry our shoes,
we durst not venture to pull them off, lest they should freeze so hard
as to be unfit to put on in the morning, and, therefore, inconvenient to
carry.
On the 20th we got into a hilly country, and the marching became much
more laborious, even the stoutest experienced great difficulty in
climbing the craggy eminences. Mr. Hood was particularly weak, and was
obliged to relinquish his station of second in the line, which Dr.
Richardson now took, to direct the leading man in keeping the appointed
course. I was also unable to keep pace with the men, who put forth their
utmost speed, encouraged by the hope, which our reckoning had led us to
form, of seeing Point Lake in the evening, but we were obliged to encamp
without gaining a view of it. We had not seen either deer or their
tracks through the day, and this circumstance, joined to the
disappointment of not discovering the lake, rendered our voyagers very
desponding, and the meagre supper of _tripe de roche_ was little
calculated to elevate their spirits. They now threatened to throw away
their bundles, and quit us, which rash act they would probably have
committed, if they had known what track to pursue.
_September 21_.--We set out at seven this morning in dark foggy weather,
and changed our course two points to the westward. The party were very
feeble, and the men much dispirited; we made slow progress, having to
march over a hilly and very rugged country.
Just before noon the sun beamed through the haze for the first time for
six days, and we obtained an observation in latitude 65° 7' 06" N.,
which was six miles to the southward of that part of Point Lake to which
our course was directed. By this observation we discovered that we had
kept to the eastward of the proper course, which may be attributed
partly to the difficulty of preserving a straight line through an
unknown country, unassisted by celestial observations, and in such thick
weather, that our view was often limited to a few hundred yards; but
chiefly to our total ignorance of the amount of the variation of the
compass.
We altered the course immediately to west-south-west, and fired guns to
apprize the hunters who were out of our view, and ignorant of our having
done so. After walking about two miles we waited to collect the
stragglers. Two partridges were killed, and these with some _tripe de
roche_, furnished our supper. Notwithstanding a full explanation was
given to the men of the reasons for altering the course, and they were
assured that the observation had enabled us to discover our exact
distance from Fort Enterprise, they could not divest themselves of the
idea of our having lost our way, and a gloom was spread over every
countenance. At this encampment Dr. Richardson was obliged to deposit
his specimens of plants and minerals, collected on the sea-coast, being
unable to carry them any farther. The way made to-day was five miles and
a quarter.
_September 22_.--After walking about two miles this morning, we came
upon the borders of an extensive lake, whose extremities could not be
discerned in consequence of the density of the atmosphere; but as its
shores seemed to approach nearer to each other to the southward than to
the northward, we determined on tracing it in that direction. We were
grieved at finding the lake expand very much beyond the contracted part
we had first seen, and incline to the eastward of south. As, however, it
was considered more than probable, from the direction and size of the
body of water we were now tracing, that it was a branch of Point Lake;
and as, in any case, we knew that by passing round its south end, we
must shortly come to the Copper-Mine River, our course was continued in
that direction. The appearance of some dwarf pines and willows, larger
than usual, induced us to suppose the river was near. We encamped early,
having come eight miles. Our supper consisted of _tripe de roche_ and
half a partridge each.
Our progress next day was extremely slow, from the difficulty of
managing the canoe in passing over the hills, as the breeze was fresh.
Peltier who had it in charge, having received several severe falls,
became impatient, and insisted on leaving his burden, as it had already
been much injured by the accidents of this day; and no arguments we
could use were sufficient to prevail on him to continue carrying it.
Vaillant was, therefore, directed to take it, and we proceeded forward.
Having found that he got on very well, and was walking even faster than
Mr. Hood could follow, in his present debilitated state, I pushed
forward to stop the rest of the party, who had got out of sight during
the delay which the discussion respecting the canoe had occasioned. I
accidentally passed the body of the men, and followed the tracks of two
persons who had separated from the rest, until two P.M., when not seeing
any person, I retraced my steps, and on my way met Dr. Richardson, who
had also missed the party whilst he was employed gathering _tripe de
roche_, and we went back together in search of them. We found they had
halted among some willows, where they had picked up some pieces of skin,
and a few bones of deer that had been devoured by the wolves last
spring. They had rendered the bones friable by burning, and eaten them
as well as the skin; and several of them had added their old shoes to
the repast. Peltier and Vaillant were with them, having left the canoe,
which, they said, was so completely broken by another fall, as to be
rendered incapable of repair, and entirely useless. The anguish this
intelligence occasioned may be conceived, but it is beyond my power to
describe it. Impressed, however, with the necessity of taking it
forward, even in the state these men represented it to be, we urgently
desired them to fetch it; but they declined going, and the strength of
the officers was inadequate to the task. To their infatuated obstinacy
on this occasion, a great portion of the melancholy circumstances which
attended our subsequent progress may, perhaps, be attributed. The men
now seemed to have lost all hope of being preserved; and all the
arguments we could use failed in stimulating them to the least exertion.
After consuming the remains of the bones and horns of the deer we
resumed our march, and in the evening, reached a contracted part of the
lake, which, perceiving it to be shallow, we forded, and encamped on the
opposite side. Heavy rain began soon afterwards, and continued all
night. On the following morning the rain had so wasted the snow, that
the tracks of Mr. Back and his companions, who had gone before with the
hunters, were traced with difficulty; and the frequent showers during
the day almost obliterated them. The men became furious at the
apprehension of being deserted by the hunters, and some of the strongest
throwing down their bundles, prepared to set out after them, intending
to leave the more weak to follow as they could. The entreaties and
threats of the officers, however, prevented their executing this mad
scheme; but not before Solomon Belanger was despatched with orders for
Mr. Back to halt until we should join him. Soon afterwards a thick fog
came on, but we continued our march and overtook Mr. Back, who had been
detained in consequence of his companions having followed some recent
tracks of deer. After halting an hour, during which we refreshed
ourselves with eating our old shoes, and a few scraps of leather, we set
forward in the hope of ascertaining whether an adjoining piece of water
was the Copper-Mine River or not, but were soon compelled to return and
encamp, for fear of a separation of the party, as we could not see each
other at ten yards' distance. The fog diminishing towards evening,
Augustus was sent to examine the water, but having lost his way he did
not reach the tents before midnight, when he brought the information of
its being a lake. We supped upon, _tripe de roche_, and enjoyed a
comfortable fire, having found some pines, seven or eight feet high, in
a valley near the encampment.
The bounty of Providence was most seasonably manifested to us next
morning, in our killing five small deer out of a herd, which came in
sight as we were on the point of starting. This unexpected supply
re-animated the drooping spirits of our men, and filled every heart with
gratitude.
The voyagers instantly petitioned for a day's rest which we were most
reluctant to grant, being aware of the importance of every moment at
this critical period of our journey. But they so earnestly and strongly
pleaded their recent sufferings, and their conviction, that the quiet
enjoyment of two substantial meals, after eight days' famine, would
enable them to proceed next day more vigorously, that we could not
resist their entreaties. The flesh, the skins, and even the contents of
the stomachs of the deer were equally distributed among the party by Mr.
Hood, who had volunteered, on the departure of Mr. Wentzel, to perform
the duty of issuing the provision. This invidious task he had all along
performed with great impartiality, but seldom without producing some
grumbling amongst the Canadians; and, on the present occasion, the
hunters were displeased that the heads and some other parts, had not
been added to their portions. It is proper to remark, that Mr. Hood
always took the smallest portion for his own mess, but this weighed
little with these men, as long as their own appetites remained
unsatisfied. We all suffered much inconvenience from eating animal food
after our long abstinence, but particularly those men who indulged
themselves beyond moderation. The Canadians, with their usual
thoughtlessness, had consumed above a third of their portions of meat
that evening.
We set out early on the 26th, and after walking about three miles along
the lake, came to the river which we at once recognised, from its size,
to be the Copper-Mine. It flowed to the northward, and after winding
about five miles, terminated in Point Lake. Its current was swift, and
there were two rapids in this part of its course, which in a canoe we
could have crossed with ease and safety. These rapids, as well as every
other part of the river, were carefully examined in search of a ford;
but finding none, the expedients occurred, of attempting to cross on a
raft made of the willows which were growing there, or in a vessel framed
with willows, and covered with the canvass of the tents; but both these
schemes were abandoned, through the obstinacy of the interpreters and
the most experienced voyagers, who declared that they would prove
inadequate to the conveyance of the party, and that much time would be
lost in the attempt. The men, in fact, did not believe that this was the
Copper-Mine River, and so little confidence had they in our reckoning,
and so much had they bewildered themselves on the march that some of
them asserted it was Hood's River, and others that it was the
Bethe-tessy. (A river which rises from a lake to the northward of Rum
Lake, and holds a course to the sea parallel with that of the
Copper-Mine.) In short, their despondency had returned, and they all
despaired of seeing Fort Enterprise again. However, the steady
assurances of the officers that we were actually on the banks of the
Copper-Mine River, and that the distance to Fort Enterprise did not
exceed forty miles, made some impression upon them, which was increased
upon our finding some bear-berry plants (_arbutus uva ursi_,) which are
reported by the Indians not to grow to the eastward of that river. They
then deplored their folly and impatience in breaking the canoe, being
all of opinion, that had it not been so completely demolished on the
23d, it might have been repaired sufficiently to take the party over. We
again closely interrogated Peltier and Vaillant as to its state, with
the intention of sending for it; but they persisted in the declaration,
that it was in a totally unserviceable condition. St. Germain being
again called upon to endeavour to construct a canoe frame with willows,
stated that he was unable to make one sufficiently large. It became
necessary, therefore, to search for pines of sufficient size to form a
raft; and being aware that such trees grow on the borders of Point Lake,
we considered it best to trace its shores in search of them; we,
therefore, resumed our march, carefully looking, but in vain, for a
fordable part, and encamped at the east end of Point Lake.
As there was little danger of our losing the path of our hunters whilst
we coasted the shores of this lake, I determined on again sending Mr.
Back forward, with the interpreters to hunt. I had in view, in this
arrangement, the further object of enabling Mr. Back to get across the
lake with two of these men, to convey the earliest possible account of
our situation to the Indians. Accordingly I instructed him to halt at
the first pines he should come to, and then prepare a raft; and if his
hunters had killed animals, so that the party could be supported whilst
we were making our raft, he was to cross immediately with St. Germain
and Beauparlant, and send the Indians to us as quickly as possible with
supplies of meat.
We had this evening the pain of discovering that two of our men had
stolen part of the officers' provision, which had been allotted to us
with strict impartiality. This conduct was the more reprehensible, as it
was plain that we were suffering, even in a greater degree than
themselves, from the effects of famine, owing to our being of a less
robust habit, and less accustomed to privations. We had no means of
punishing this crime, but by the threat that they should forfeit their
wages, which had now ceased to operate.
Mr. Back and his companions set out at six in the morning, and we
started at seven. As the snow had entirely disappeared, and there were
no means of distinguishing the footsteps of stragglers, I gave strict
orders, previously to setting out, for all the party to keep together:
and especially I desired the two Esquimaux not to leave us, they having
often strayed in search of the remains of animals. Our people, however,
through despondency, had become careless and disobedient, and had ceased
to dread punishment, or hope for reward. Much time was lost in halting
and firing guns to collect them, but the labour of walking was so much
lightened by the disappearance of the snow, that we advanced seven or
eight miles along the lake before noon, exclusive of the loss of
distance in rounding its numerous bays. At length we came to an arm,
running away to the north-east, and apparently connected with the lake
which we had coasted on the 22nd, 23rd, and 24th, of the month.
The idea of again rounding such an extensive piece of water and of
travelling over so barren a country was dreadful, and we feared that
other arms, equally large, might obstruct our path, and that the
strength of the party would entirely fail, long before we could reach
the only part where we were certain of finding wood, distant in a direct
line twenty-five miles. While we halted to consider of this subject, and
to collect the party, the carcase of a deer was discovered in the cleft
of a rock into which it had fallen in the spring. It was putrid, but
little less acceptable to us on that account, in our present
circumstances; and a fire being kindled, a large portion was devoured on
the spot, affording us an unexpected breakfast, for in order to husband
our small remaining portion of meat, we had agreed to make only one
scanty meal a day. The men, cheered by this unlooked-for supply, became
sanguine in the hope of being able to cross the stream on a raft of
willows, although they had before declared such a project
impracticable, and they unanimously entreated us to return back to the
rapid, a request which accorded with our own opinion, and was therefore
acceded to. Crédit and Junius, however, were missing, and it was also
necessary to send notice of our intention to Mr. Back and his party.
Augustus being promised a reward, undertook the task, and we agreed to
wait for him at the rapid. It was supposed he could not fail meeting
with the two stragglers on his way to or from Mr. Back, as it was likely
they would keep on the borders of the lake. He accordingly set out after
Mr. Back, whilst we returned about a mile towards the rapid, and
encamped in a deep valley amongst some large willows. We supped on the
remains of the putrid deer, and the men having gone to the spot where it
was found, scraped together the contents of its intestines which were
scattered on the rock, and added them to their meal. We also enjoyed the
luxury to-day of eating a large quantity of excellent blue-berries and
cran-berries (_vaccinium uliginosum_ and _v. vitis idæa_) which were
laid bare by the melting of the snow, but nothing could allay our
inordinate appetites.
In the night we heard the report of Crédit's gun in answer to our signal
muskets, and he rejoined us in the morning, but we got no intelligence
of Junius. We set out about an hour after day-break{39}, and encamped at
two P.M. between the rapids, where the river was about one hundred and
thirty yards wide, being its narrowest part.
Eight deer were seen by Michel and Crédit, who loitered behind the rest
of the party, but they could not approach them. A great many shots were
fired by those in the rear at partridges, but they missed, or at least
did not choose to add what they killed to the common stock. We
subsequently learned that the hunters often secreted the partridges they
shot, and ate them unknown to the officers. Some _tripe de roche_ was
collected, which we boiled for supper, with the moiety of the remainder
of our deer's meat. The men commenced cutting the willows for the
construction of the raft. As an excitement to exertion, I promised a
reward of three hundred livres to the first person who should convey a
line across the river, by which the raft could be managed in
transporting the party.
_September 29_.--Strong south-east winds with fog in the morning, more
moderate in the evening. Temperature of the rapid 38°. The men began at
an early hour to bind the willows in fagots for the construction of the
raft, and it was finished by seven; but as the willows were green, it
proved to be very little buoyant, and was unable to support more than
one man at a time. Even on this, however, we hoped the whole party might
be transported, by hauling it from one side to the other, provided a
line could be carried to the other bank. Several attempts were made by
Belanger and Benoit, the strongest men of the party, to convey the raft
across the stream, but they failed for want of oars. A pole constructed
by tying the tent poles together, was too short to reach the bottom at a
short distance from the shore; and a paddle which had been carried from
the sea-coast by Dr. Richardson, did not possess sufficient power to
move the raft in opposition to a strong breeze, which blew from the
other side. All the men suffered extremely from the coldness of the
water, in which they were necessarily immersed up to the waists, in
their endeavours to aid Belanger and Benoit; and having witnessed
repeated failures, they began to consider the scheme as hopeless. At
this time Dr. Richardson, prompted by a desire of relieving his
suffering companions, proposed to swim across the stream with a line,
and to haul the raft over. He launched into the stream with the line
round his middle, but when he had got a short distance from the bank,
his arms became benumbed with cold, and he lost the power of moving
them; still he persevered, and, turning on his back, had nearly gained
the opposite bank, when his legs also became powerless, and to our
infinite alarm we beheld him sink. We instantly hauled upon the line and
he came again on the surface, and was gradually drawn ashore in an
almost lifeless state. Being rolled up in blankets, he was placed before
a good fire of willows, and fortunately was just able to speak
sufficiently to give some slight directions respecting the manner of
treating him. He recovered strength gradually, and through the blessing
of God was enabled in the course of a few hours to converse, and by the
evening was sufficiently recovered to remove into the tent. We then
regretted to learn, that the skin of his whole left side was deprived of
feeling, in consequence of exposure to too great heat. He did not
perfectly recover the sensation of that side until the following summer.
I cannot describe what every one felt at beholding the skeleton which
the Doctor's debilitated frame exhibited. When he stripped, the
Canadians simultaneously exclaimed, "Ah! que nous sommes maigres!" I
shall best explain his state and that of the party, by the following
extract from his journal: "It may be worthy of remark that I should have
had little hesitation in any former period of my life, at plunging into
water even below 38° Fahrenheit; but at this time I was reduced almost
to skin and bone, and, like the rest of the party, suffered from degrees
of cold that would have been disregarded in health and vigour. During
the whole of our march we experienced that no quantity of clothing could
keep us warm whilst we fasted, but on those occasions on which we were
enabled to go to bed with full stomachs, we passed the night in a warm
and comfortable manner."
In following the detail of our friend's narrow escape, I have omitted to
mention, that when he was about to step into the water, he put his foot
on a dagger, which cut him to the bone; but this misfortune could not
stop him from attempting the execution of his generous undertaking.
In the evening Augustus came in. He had walked a day and a half beyond
the place from whence we turned back, but had neither seen Junius nor
Mr. Back. Of the former he had seen no traces, but he had followed the
tracks of Mr. Back's party for a considerable distance, until the
hardness of the ground rendered them imperceptible. Junius was well
equipped with ammunition, blankets, knives, a kettle, and other
necessaries; and it was the opinion of Augustus that when he found he
could not rejoin the party, he would endeavour to gain the woods on the
west end of Point Lake, and follow the river until he fell in with the
Esquimaux, who frequent its mouth. The Indians too with whom we have
since conversed upon this subject, are confident that he would be able
to subsist himself during the winter. Crédit, on his hunting excursion
to-day, found a cap, which our people recognised to belong to one of the
hunters who had left us in the spring. This circumstance produced the
conviction of our being on the banks of the Copper-Mine River, which all
the assertions of the officers had hitherto failed in effecting with
some of the party; and it had the happy consequence of reviving their
spirits considerably. We consumed the last of our deer's meat this
evening at supper.
Next morning the men went out in search of dry willows, and collected
eight large fagots, with which they formed a more buoyant raft than the
former, but the wind being still adverse and strong, they delayed
attempting to cross until a more favourable opportunity. Pleased,
however, with the appearance of this raft, they collected some _tripe de
roche_, and made a cheerful supper. Dr. Richardson was gaining strength,
but his leg was much swelled and very painful. An observation for
latitude placed the encampment in 65° 00' 00" N., the longitude being
112° 20' 00" W., deduced from the last observation.
On the morning of the 1st of October, the wind was strong, and the
weather as unfavourable as before for crossing on the raft. We were
rejoiced to see Mr. Back and his party in the afternoon. They had traced
the lake about fifteen miles farther than we did, and found it
undoubtedly connected, as we had supposed, with the lake we fell in with
on the 22nd of September; and dreading, as we had done, the idea of
coasting its barren shores, they returned to make an attempt at crossing
here. St. Germain now proposed to make a canoe of the fragments of
painted canvass in which we wrapped our bedding. This scheme appearing
practicable, a party was sent to our encampment of the 24th and 25th
last, to collect pitch amongst{40} the small pines that grew there, to
pay over the seams of the canoe.
In the afternoon we had a heavy fall of snow, which continued all night.
A small quantity of _tripe de roche_ was gathered; and Crédit, who had
been hunting, brought in the antlers and back bone of a deer which had
been killed in the summer. The wolves and birds of prey had picked them
clean, but there still remained a quantity of the spinal marrow which
they had not been able to extract. This, although putrid, was esteemed a
valuable prize, and the spine being divided into portions, was
distributed equally. After eating the marrow, which was so acrid as to
excoriate the lips, we rendered the bones friable by burning, and ate
them also.
On the following morning the ground was covered with snow to the depth
of a foot and a half, and the weather was very stormy. These
circumstances rendered the men again extremely despondent; a settled
gloom hung over their countenances, and they refused to pick _tripe de
roche_, choosing rather to go entirely without eating, than to make any
exertion. The party which went for gum returned early in the morning
without having found any; but St. Germain said he could still make the
canoe with the willows, covered with canvass, and removed with Adam to a
clump of willows for that purpose. Mr. Back accompanied them to
stimulate his exertion, as we feared the lowness of his spirits would
cause him to be slow in his operations. Augustus went to fish at the
rapid, but a large trout having carried away his bait, we had nothing to
replace it.
The snow-storm continued all the night, and during the forenoon of the
3d. Having persuaded the people to gather some _tripe de roche_, I
partook of a meal with them; and afterwards set out with the intention
of going to St. Germain to hasten his operations, but though he was only
three quarters of a mile distant, I spent three hours in a vain attempt
to reach him, my strength being unequal to the labour of wading through
the deep snow; and I returned quite exhausted, and much shaken by the
numerous falls I had got. My associates were all in the same debilitated
state, and poor Hood was reduced to a perfect shadow, from the severe
bowel complaints which the _tripe de roche_ never failed to give him.
Back was so feeble as to require the support of a stick in walking; and
Dr. Richardson had lameness superadded to weakness. The voyagers were
somewhat stronger than ourselves, but more indisposed to exertion, on
account of their despondency. The sensation of hunger was no longer felt
by any of us, yet we were scarcely able to converse upon any other
subject than the pleasures of eating. We were much indebted to Hepburn
at this crisis. The officers were unable from weakness to gather _tripe
de roche_ themselves, and Samandrè, who had acted as our cook on the
journey from the coast, sharing in the despair of the rest of the
Canadians, refused to make the slightest exertion. Hepburn, on the
contrary, animated by a firm reliance on the beneficence of the Supreme
Being, tempered with resignation to his will, was indefatigable in his
exertions to serve us, and daily collected all the _tripe de roche_ that
was used in the officers' mess. Mr. Hood could not partake of this
miserable fare, and a partridge which had been reserved for him was, I
lament to say, this day stolen by one of the men.
_October 4_.--The canoe being finished, it was brought to the
encampment, and the whole party being assembled in anxious expectation
on the beach, St. Germain embarked, and amidst our prayers for his
success, succeeded in reaching the opposite shore. The canoe was then
drawn back again, and another person transported, and in this manner by
drawing it backwards and forwards, we were all conveyed over without any
serious accident. By these frequent traverses the canoe was materially
injured; and latterly it filled each time with water before reaching the
shore, so that all our garments and bedding were wet, and there was not
a sufficiency of willows upon the side on which we now were, to make a
fire to dry them.
That no time might be lost in procuring relief, I immediately despatched
Mr. Back with St. Germain, Solomon Belanger, and Beauparlant, to search
for the Indians, directing him to go to Fort Enterprise, where we
expected they would be, or where, at least, a note from Mr. Wentzel
would be found to direct us in our search for them. If St. Germain
should kill any animals on his way, a portion of the meat was to be put
up securely for us, and conspicuous marks placed over it.
It is impossible to imagine a more gratifying change than was produced
in our voyagers after we were all safely landed on the southern banks of
the river. Their spirits immediately revived, each of them shook the
officers cordially by the hand, and declared they now considered the
worst of their difficulties over, as they did not doubt of reaching Fort
Enterprise in a few days, even in their feeble condition. We had,
indeed, every reason to be grateful, and our joy would have been
complete had it not been mingled with sincere regret at the separation
of our poor Esquimaux, the faithful Junius.
The want of _tripe de roche_ caused us to go supperless to bed. Showers
of snow fell frequently during the night. The breeze was light next
morning, the weather cold and clear. We were all on foot by day-break,
but from the frozen state of our tents and bed-clothes, it was long
before the bundles could be made, and as usual, the men lingered over a
small fire they had kindled, so that it was eight o'clock before we
started. Our advance, from the depth of the snow, was slow, and about
noon, coming to a spot where there was some _tripe de roche_, we
stopped to collect it, and breakfasted. Mr. Hood, who was now very
feeble, and Dr. Richardson, who attached himself to him, walked together
at a gentle pace in the rear of the party. I kept with the foremost men,
to cause them to halt occasionally, until the stragglers came up.
Resuming our march after breakfast, we followed the track of Mr. Back's
party, and encamped early, as all of us were much fatigued, particularly
Crédit, who having to-day carried the men's tent, it being his turn so
to do, was so exhausted, that when he reached the encampment he was
unable to stand. The _tripe de roche_ disagreed with this man and with
Vaillant, in consequence of which, they were the first whose strength
totally failed. We had a small quantity of this weed in the evening, and
the rest of our supper was made up of scraps of roasted leather. The
distance walked to-day was six miles. As Crédit was very weak in the
morning, his load was reduced to little more than his personal luggage,
consisting of his blanket, shoes, and gun. Previous to setting out, the
whole party ate the remains of their old shoes, and whatever scraps of
leather they had, to strengthen their stomachs for the fatigue of the
day's journey. We left the encampment at nine, and pursued our route
over a range of black hills. The wind having increased to a strong gale
in the course of the morning, became piercingly cold, and the drift
rendered it difficult for those in the rear to follow the track over the
heights; whilst in the valleys, where it was sufficiently marked, from
the depth of the snow, the labour of walking was proportionably great.
Those in advance made, as usual, frequent halts, yet being unable from
the severity of the weather to remain long still, they were obliged to
move on before the rear could come up, and the party, of course,
straggled very much.
About noon Samandrè coming up, informed us that Crédit and Vaillant
could advance no further. Some willows being discovered in a valley near
us, I proposed to halt the party there, whilst Dr. Richardson went back
to visit them. I hoped too, that when the sufferers received the
information of a fire being kindled at so short a distance they would be
cheered, and use their utmost efforts to reach it, but this proved a
vain hope. The Doctor found Vaillant about a mile and a half in the
rear, much exhausted with cold and fatigue. Having encouraged him to
advance to the fire, after repeated solicitations he made the attempt,
but fell down amongst the deep snow at every step. Leaving him in this
situation, the Doctor went about half a mile farther back, to the spot
where Crédit was said to have halted, and the track being nearly
obliterated by the snow drift, it became unsafe for him to go further.
Returning he passed Vaillant, who having moved only a few yards in his
absence, had fallen down, was unable to rise, and could scarcely answer
his questions. Being unable to afford him any effectual assistance, he
hastened on to inform us of his situation. When J. B. Belanger had heard
the melancholy account, he went immediately to aid Vaillant, and bring
up his burden. Respecting Crédit, we were informed by Samandrè, that he
had stopped a short distance behind Vaillant, but that his intention was
to return to the encampment of the preceding evening.
When Belanger came back with Vaillant's load, he informed us that he had
found him lying on his back, benumbed with cold, and incapable of being
roused. The stoutest men of the party were now earnestly entreated to
bring him to the fire, but they declared themselves unequal to the task;
and, on the contrary, urged me to allow them to throw down their loads,
and proceed to Fort Enterprise with the utmost speed. A compliance with
their desire would have caused the loss of the whole party, for the men
were totally ignorant of the course to be pursued, and none of the
officers, who could have directed the march, were sufficiently strong to
keep up at the pace they would then walk; besides, even supposing them
to have found their way, the strongest men would certainly have deserted
the weak. Something, however, was absolutely necessary to be done, to
relieve them as much as possible from their burdens, and the officers
consulted on the subject. Mr. Hood and Dr. Richardson proposed to remain
behind, with a single attendant, at the first place where sufficient
wood and _tripe de roche_ should be found for ten days' consumption; and
that I should proceed as expeditiously as possible with the men to the
house, and thence send them immediate relief. They strongly urged that
this arrangement would contribute to the safety of the rest of the
party, by relieving them from the burden of a tent, and several other
articles; and that they might afford aid to Crédit, if he should
unexpectedly come up. I was distressed beyond description at the thought
of leaving them in such a dangerous situation, and for a long time
combated their proposal; but they strenuously urged, that this step
afforded the only chance of safety for the party, and I reluctantly
acceded to it. The ammunition, of which we had a small barrel, was also
to be left with them, and it was hoped that this deposit would be a
strong inducement for the Indians to venture across the barren grounds
to their aid. We communicated this resolution to the men, who were
cheered at the slightest prospect of alleviation to their present
miseries, and promised with great appearance of earnestness to return to
those officers, upon the first supply of food.
The party then moved on; Vaillant's blanket and other necessaries were
left in the track, at the request of the Canadians, without any hope,
however, of his being able to reach them. After marching till dusk
without seeing a favourable place for encamping, night compelled us to
take shelter under the lee of a hill, amongst some willows, with which,
after many attempts, we at length made a fire. It was not sufficient,
however, to warm the whole party, much less to thaw our shoes; and the
weather not permitting the gathering of _tripe de roche_, we had nothing
to cook. The painful retrospection of the melancholy events of the day
banished sleep, and we shuddered as we contemplated the dreadful effects
of this bitterly cold night on our two companions, if still living. Some
faint hopes were entertained of Crédit's surviving the storm, as he was
provided with a good blanket, and had leather to eat.
The weather was mild next morning. We left the encampment at nine, and a
little before noon came to a pretty extensive thicket of small willows,
near which there appeared a supply of _tripe de roche_ on the face of
the rocks. At this place Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood determined to
remain, with John Hepburn, who volunteered to stop with them. The tent
was securely pitched, a few willows collected, and the ammunition and
all other articles were deposited, except each man's clothing, one tent,
a sufficiency of ammunition for the journey, and the officers' journals.
I had only one blanket, which was carried for me, and two pair of shoes.
The offer was now made for any of the men, who felt themselves too weak
to proceed, to remain with the officers, but none of them accepted it.
Michel alone felt some inclination to do so. After we had united in
thanksgiving and prayers to Almighty God, I separated from my
companions, deeply afflicted that a train of melancholy circumstances
should have demanded of me the severe trial of parting, in such a
condition, from friends who had become endeared to me by their constant
kindness and co-operation, and a participation of numerous sufferings.
This trial I could not have been induced to undergo, but for the reasons
they had so strongly urged the day before, to which my own judgment
assented, and for the sanguine hope I felt of either finding a supply of
provision at Fort Enterprise, or meeting the Indians in the immediate
vicinity of that place, according to my arrangements with Mr. Wentzel
and Akaitcho. Previously to our starting, Peltier and Benoit repeated
their promises, to return to them with provision, if any should be found
at the house, or to guide the Indians to them, if any were met.
Greatly as Mr. Hood was exhausted, and indeed, incapable as he must have
proved, of encountering the fatigue of our very next day's journey, so
that I felt his resolution to be prudent, I was sensible that his
determination to remain, was chiefly prompted by the disinterested and
generous wish to remove impediments to the progress of the rest. Dr.
Richardson and Hepburn, who were both in a state of strength to keep
pace with the men, besides this motive which they shared with him, were
influenced in their resolution to remain, the former by the desire which
had distinguished his character, throughout the expedition, of devoting
himself to the succour of the weak, and the latter by the zealous
attachment he had ever shown towards his officers.
We set out without waiting to take any of the _tripe de roche_, and
walking at a tolerable pace, in an hour arrived at a fine group of
pines, about a mile and a quarter from the tent. We sincerely regretted
not having seen these before we separated from our companions, as they
would have been better supplied with fuel here, and there appeared to be
more _tripe de roche_ than where we had left them.
Descending afterwards into a more level country, we found the snow very
deep, and the labour of wading through it so fatigued the whole party,
that we were compelled to encamp, after a march of four miles and a
half. Belanger and Michel were left far behind, and when they arrived at
the encampment appeared quite exhausted. The former, bursting into
tears, declared his inability to proceed, and begged me to let him go
back next morning to the tent, and shortly afterwards Michel made the
same request. I was in hopes they might recover a little strength by the
night's rest, and therefore deferred giving any permission _until_
morning. The sudden failure in the strength of these men cast a gloom
over the rest, which I tried in vain to remove, by repeated assurances
that the distance to Fort Enterprise was short, and that we should, in
all probability, reach it in four days. Not being able to find any
_tripe de roche_, we drank an infusion of the Labrador tea plant,
(_ledum palustre_), and ate a few morsels of burnt leather for supper.
We were unable to raise the tent, and found its weight too great to
carry it on; we, therefore, cut it up, and took a part of the canvass
for a cover. The night was bitterly cold, and though we lay as close to
each other as possible, having no shelter, we could not keep ourselves
sufficiently warm to sleep. A strong gale came on after midnight, which
increased the severity of the weather. In the morning Belanger and
Michel renewed their request to be permitted to go back to the tent,
assuring me they were still weaker than on the preceding evening, and
less capable of going forward; and they urged, that the stopping at a
place where there was a supply of _tripe de roche_ was their only chance
of preserving life; under these circumstances, I could not do otherwise
than yield to their desire. I wrote a note to Dr. Richardson and Mr.
Hood, informing them of the pines we had passed, and recommending their
removing thither. Having found that Michel was carrying a considerable
quantity of ammunition, I desired him to divide it among my party,
leaving him only ten balls and a little shot, to kill any animals he
might meet on his way to the tent. This man was very particular in his
inquiries respecting the direction of the house, and the course we
meant to pursue; he also said, that if he should be able, he would go
and search for Vaillant, and Crédit; and he requested my permission to
take Vaillant's blanket, if he should find it, to which I agreed, and
mentioned it in my notes to the officers.
Scarcely were these arrangements finished, before Perrault and Fontano
were seized with a fit of dizziness, and betrayed other symptoms of
extreme debility. Some tea was quickly prepared for them, and after
drinking it, and eating a few morsels of burnt leather, they recovered,
and expressed their desire to go forward; but the other men, alarmed at
what they had just witnessed, became doubtful of their own strength,
and, giving way to absolute dejection, declared their inability to move.
I now earnestly pressed upon them the necessity of continuing our
journey, as the only means of saving their own lives, as well as those
of our friends at the tent; and, after much entreaty, got them to set
out at ten A.M.: Belanger and Michel were left at the encampment, and
proposed to start shortly afterwards. By the time we had gone about two
hundred yards, Perrault became again dizzy, and desired us to halt,
which we did, until he, recovering, offered to march on. Ten minutes
more had hardly elapsed before he again desired us to stop, and,
bursting into tears, declared he was totally exhausted, and unable to
accompany us further. As the encampment was not more than a quarter of a
mile distant, we recommended that he should return to it, and rejoin
Belanger and Michel, whom we knew to be still there, from perceiving the
smoke of a fresh fire; and because they had not made any preparation for
starting when we quitted them. He readily acquiesced in the proposition,
and having taken a friendly leave of each of us, and enjoined us to make
all the haste we could in sending relief, he turned back, keeping his
gun and ammunition. We watched him until he was nearly at the fire, and
then proceeded. During these detentions, Augustus becoming impatient of
the delay had walked on, and we lost sight of him. The labour we
experienced in wading through the deep snow induced us to cross a
moderate sized lake, which lay in our track, but we found this operation
far more harassing. As the surface of the ice was perfectly smooth, we
slipt at almost every step, and were frequently blown down by the wind
with such force as to shake our whole frames.
Poor Fontano was completely exhausted by the labour of this traverse,
and we made a halt until his strength was recruited, by which time the
party was benumbed with cold. Proceeding again, he got on tolerably well
for a little time; but being again seized with faintness and dizziness,
he fell often, and at length exclaimed that he could go no further. We
immediately stopped, and endeavoured to encourage him to persevere,
until we should find some willows to encamp; he insisted, however, that
he could not march any longer through this deep snow; and said, that if
he should even reach our encampment this evening, he must be left there,
provided _tripe de roche_ could not be procured to recruit his strength.
The poor man was overwhelmed with grief, and seemed desirous to remain
at that spot. We were about two miles from the place where the other men
had been left, and as the track to it was beaten, we proposed to him to
return thither, as we thought it probable he would find the men still
there; at any rate, he would be able to get fuel to keep him warm during
the night; and, on the next day, he could follow their track to the
officers' tent; and, should the path be covered by the snow, the pines
we had passed yesterday would guide him, as they were yet in view.
I cannot describe my anguish on the occasion of separating from another
companion under circumstances so distressing. There was, however, no
alternative. The extreme debility of the rest of the party put the
carrying him quite out of the question, as he himself admitted; and it
was evident that the frequent delays he must occasion if he accompanied
us, and did not gain strength, would endanger the lives of the whole. By
returning he had the prospect of getting to the tent where _tripe de
roche_ could be obtained, which agreed with him better than with any
other of the party, and which he was always very assiduous in gathering.
After some hesitation he determined on going back, and set out, having
bid each of us farewell in the tenderest manner. We watched him with
inexpressible anxiety for some time, and were rejoiced to find, though
he got on slowly, that he kept on his legs better than before. Antonio
Fontano was an Italian, and had served many years in De Meuron's
regiment. He had spoken to me that very morning, and after his first
attack of dizziness, about his father; and had begged, that should he
survive, I would take him with me to England, and put him in the way of
reaching home.
The party was now reduced to five persons, Adam, Peltier, Benoit,
Samandrè, and myself. Continuing the journey, we came, after an hour's
walk, to some willows, and encamped under the shelter of a rock, having
walked in the whole four miles and a half. We made an attempt to gather
some _tripe de roche_, but could not, owing to the severity of the
weather. Our supper, therefore, consisted of tea and a few morsels of
leather.
Augustus did not make his appearance, but we felt no alarm at his
absence, supposing he would go to the tent if he missed our track.
Having fire, we procured a little sleep. Next morning the breeze was
light and the weather mild, which enabled us to collect some _tripe de
roche_, and to enjoy the only meal we had had for four days. We derived
great benefit from it, and walked with considerably more ease than
yesterday. Without the strength it supplied, we should certainly have
been unable to oppose the strong breeze we met in the afternoon. After
walking about five miles, we came upon the borders of Marten Lake, and
were rejoiced to find it frozen, so that we could continue our course
straight for Fort Enterprise. We encamped at the first rapid in Winter
River amidst willows and alders; but these were so frozen, and the snow
fell so thick, that the men had great difficulty in making a fire. This
proving insufficient to warm us, or even thaw our shoes, and having no
food to prepare, we crept under our blankets. The arrival in a
well-known part raised the spirits of the men to a high pitch, and we
kept up a cheerful conversation until sleep overpowered us. The night
was very stormy, and the morning scarcely less so; but, being desirous
to reach the house this day, we commenced our journey very early. We
were gratified by the sight of a large herd of rein-deer on the side of
the hill near the track, but our only hunter, Adam, was too feeble to
pursue them. Our shoes and garments were stiffened by the frost, and we
walked in great pain until we arrived at some stunted pines, at which we
halted, made a good fire, and procured the refreshment of tea. The
weather becoming fine in the afternoon, we continued our journey, passed
the Dog-rib Rock, and encamped among a clump of pines of considerable
growth, about a mile further on. Here we enjoyed the comfort of a large
fire for the first time since our departure from the sea-coast; but this
gratification was purchased at the expense of many severe falls in
crossing a stony valley, to get to these trees. There was no _tripe de
roche_, and we drank tea and ate some of our shoes for supper. Next
morning after taking the usual repast of tea, we proceeded to the house.
Musing on what we were likely to find there, our minds were agitated
between hope and fear, and, contrary to the custom we had kept up, of
supporting our spirits by conversation, we went silently forward.
At length we reached Fort Enterprise, and to our infinite disappointment
and grief found it a perfectly desolate habitation. There was no deposit
of provision, no trace of the Indians, no letter from Mr. Wentzel to
point out where the Indians might be found. It would be impossible to
describe our sensations after entering this miserable abode, and
discovering how we had been neglected: the whole party shed tears, not
so much for our own fate, as for that of our friends in the rear, whose
lives depended entirely on our sending immediate relief from this place.
I found a note, however, from Mr. Back, stating that he had reached the
house two days before and was going in search of the Indians, at a part
where St. Germain deemed it probable they might be found. If he was
unsuccessful, he purposed walking to Fort Providence, and sending
succour from thence: but he doubted whether either he or his party could
perform the journey to that place in their present debilitated state. It
was evident that any supply that could be sent from Fort Providence
would be long in reaching us, neither could it be sufficient to enable
us to afford any assistance to our companions behind, and that the only
relief for them must be procured from the Indians. I resolved therefore,
on going also in search of them: but my companions were absolutely
incapable of proceeding, and I thought by halting two or three days they
might gather a little strength, whilst the delay would afford us the
chance of learning whether Mr. Back had seen the Indians.
We now looked round for the means of subsistence, and were gratified to
find several deer-skins, which had been thrown away during our former
residence. The bones were gathered from the heap of ashes; these with
the skins, and the addition of _tripe de roche_, we considered would
support us tolerably well for a time. As to the house, the parchment
being torn from the windows, the apartment we selected for our abode was
exposed to all the rigour of the season. We endeavoured to exclude the
wind as much as possible, by placing loose boards against the apertures.
The temperature was now between 15° and 20° below zero. We procured fuel
by pulling up the flooring of the other rooms, and water for cooking, by
melting the snow. Whilst we were seated round the fire, singeing the
deer-skin for supper, we were rejoiced by the unexpected entrance of
Augustus. He had followed quite a different course from ours, and the
circumstance of his having found his way through a part of the country
he had never been in before, must be considered a remarkable proof of
sagacity. The unusual earliness of this winter became manifest to us
from the state of things at this spot. Last year at the same season, and
still later there had been very little snow on the ground, and we were
surrounded by vast herds of rein-deer; now there were but few recent
tracks of these animals, and the snow was upwards of two feet deep.
Winter River was then open, now it was frozen two feet thick.
When I arose the following morning, my body and limbs were so swollen
that I was unable to walk more than a few yards. Adam was in a still
worse condition, being absolutely incapable of rising without
assistance. My other companions happily experienced this inconvenience
in a less degree, and went to collect bones, and some _tripe de roche_
which supplied us with two meals. The bones were quite acrid, and the
soup extracted from them excoriated the mouth if taken alone, but it was
somewhat milder when boiled with _tripe de roche_, and we even thought
the mixture palatable, with the addition of salt, of which a cask had
been fortunately left here in the spring. Augustus to-day set two
fishing lines below the rapid. On his way thither he saw two deer, but
had not strength to follow them.
On the 13th the wind blew violently from south-east, and the snow
drifted so much that the party were confined to the house. In the
afternoon of the following day Belanger arrived with a note from Mr.
Back, stating that he had seen no trace of the Indians, and desiring
further instructions as to the course he should pursue. Belanger's
situation, however, required our first care, as he came in almost
speechless, and covered with ice, having fallen into a rapid, and, for
the third time since we left the coast, narrowly escaped drowning. He
did not recover sufficiently to answer our questions, until we had
rubbed him for some time, changed his dress, and given him some warm
soup. My companions nursed him with the greatest kindness, and the
desire of restoring him to health, seemed to absorb all regard for their
own situation. I witnessed with peculiar pleasure this conduct, so
different from that which they had recently pursued, when every tender
feeling was suspended by the desire of self-preservation. They now no
longer betrayed impatience or despondency, but were composed and
cheerful, and had entirely given up the practice of swearing, to which
the Canadian voyagers are so lamentably addicted. Our conversation
naturally turned upon the prospect of getting relief, and upon the means
which were best adapted for obtaining it. The absence of all traces of
Indians on Winter River, convinced me that they were at this time on the
way to Fort Providence, and that by proceeding towards that post we
should overtake them, as they move slowly when they have their families
with them. This route also offered us the prospect of killing deer, in
the vicinity of Rein-Deer{41} Lake, in which neighbourhood, our men in
their journey to and fro last winter, had always found them abundant.
Upon these grounds I determined on taking the route to Fort Providence
as soon as possible, and wrote to Mr. Back, desiring him to join me at
Rein-Deer Lake, and detailing the occurrences since we parted, that our
friends might receive relief, in case of any accident happening to me.
Belanger did not recover sufficient strength to leave us before the
18th. His answers as to the exact part of Round-Rock Lake in which he
had left Mr. Back, were very unsatisfactory; and we could only collect
that it was at a considerable distance, and that he was still going on
with the intention of halting at the place where Akaitcho was encamped
last summer, about thirty miles off. This distance appeared so great,
that I told Belanger it was very unsafe for him to attempt it alone,
and that he would be several days in accomplishing it. He stated,
however, that as the track was beaten, he should experience little
fatigue, and seemed so confident, that I suffered him to depart with a
supply of singed hide. Next day I received information which explained
why he was so unwilling to acquaint us with the situation of Mr. Back's
party. He dreaded that I should resolve upon joining it, when our
numbers would be so great as to consume at once every thing St. Germain
might kill, if by accident he should be successful in hunting. He even
endeavoured to entice away our other hunter, Adam, and proposed to him
to carry off the only kettle we had, and without which we could not have
subsisted two days. Adam's inability to move, however, precluded him
from agreeing to the proposal, but he could assign no reason for not
acquainting me with it previous to Belanger's departure. I was at first
inclined to consider the whole matter as a fiction of Adam's, but he
persisted in his story without wavering; and Belanger, when we met
again, confessed that every part of it was true. It is painful to have
to record a fact so derogatory to human nature, but I have deemed it
proper to mention it, to shew the difficulties we had to contend with,
and the effect which distress had in warping the feelings and
understanding of the most diligent and obedient of our party; for such
Belanger had been always esteemed up to this time.
In making arrangements for our departure, Adam disclosed to me, for the
first time, that he was affected with oedematous swellings in some parts
of the body, to such a degree as to preclude the slightest attempt at
marching; and upon my expressing my surprise at his having hitherto
concealed from me the extent of his malady, among other explanations the
details of the preceding story came out. It now became necessary to
abandon the original intention of proceeding with the whole party
towards Fort Providence, and Peltier and Samandrè having volunteered to
remain with Adam, I determined on setting out with Benoit and Augustus,
intending to send them relief by the first party of Indians we should
meet. My clothes were so much torn, as to be quite inadequate to screen
me from the wind, and Peltier and Samandrè fearing that I might suffer
on the journey in consequence, kindly exchanged with me parts of their
dress, desiring me to send them skins in return by the Indians. Having
patched up three pair of snow shoes, and singed{42} a quantity of skin
for the journey, we started on the morning of the 20th. Previous to my
departure, I packed up the journals of the officers, the charts, and
some other documents, together with a letter addressed to the
Under-Secretary of State, detailing the occurrences of the Expedition up
to this period, which package was given in charge to Peltier and
Samandrè with directions that it should be brought away by the Indians
who might come to them. I also instructed them to send succour
immediately on its arrival to our companions in the rear, which they
solemnly promised to do, and I left a letter for my friends, Richardson
and Hood, to be sent at the same time. I thought it necessary to
admonish Peltier, Samandrè, and Adam, to eat two meals every day, in
order to keep up their strength, which they promised me they would do.
No language that I can use could adequately describe the parting scene.
I shall only say there was far more calmness and resignation to the
Divine will evinced by every one than could have been expected. We were
all cheered by the hope that the Indians would be found by the one
party, and relief sent to the other. Those who remained entreated us to
make all the haste we could, and expressed their hope of seeing the
Indians in ten or twelve days.
At first starting we were so feeble as scarcely to be able to move
forwards, and the descent of the bank of the river through the deep
snow was a severe labour. When we came upon the ice, where the snow was
less deep, we got on better, but after walking six hours we had only
gained four miles, and were then compelled by fatigue to encamp on the
borders of Round-Rock Lake. Augustus tried for fish here, but without
success, so that our fare was skin and tea. Composing ourselves to rest,
we lay close to each other for warmth. We found the night bitterly cold,
and the wind pierced through our famished frames.
The next morning was mild and pleasant for travelling, and we set out
after breakfast. We had not, however, gone many yards before I had the
misfortune to break my snow shoes by falling between two rocks. This
accident prevented me from keeping pace with Benoit and Augustus, and in
the attempt I became quite exhausted. Feeling convinced that their being
delayed on my account might prove of fatal consequence to the rest, I
resolved on returning to the house, and letting them proceed alone in
search of the Indians. I therefore halted them only whilst I wrote a
note to Mr. Back, stating the reason of my return, and desiring he would
send meat from Rein-Deer Lake by these men, if St. Germain should kill
any animals there. If Benoit should miss Mr. Back, I directed him to
proceed to Fort Providence, and furnished him with a letter to the
gentleman in charge of it, requesting that immediate supplies might be
sent to us.
On my return to the house, I found Samandrè very dispirited, and too
weak, as he said, to render any assistance to Peltier; upon whom the
whole labour of getting wood and collecting the means of subsistence
would have devolved. Conscious, too, that his strength would have been
unequal to these tasks, they had determined upon taking only one meal
each day; so that I felt my going{43} back particularly fortunate, as I
hoped to stimulate Samandrè to exertion, and at any rate could
contribute some help to Peltier. I undertook the office of cooking, and
insisted they should eat twice a day whenever food could be procured;
but as I was too weak to pound the bones, Peltier agreed to do that in
addition to his more fatiguing task of getting wood. We had a violent
snow storm all the next day, and this gloomy weather increased the
depression of spirits under which Adam and Samandrè were labouring.
Neither of them would quit their beds, and they scarcely ceased from
shedding tears all day; in vain did Peltier and myself endeavour to
cheer them. We had even to use much entreaty before they would take the
meals we had prepared for them. Our situation was indeed distressing,
but in comparison with that of our friends in the rear, we thought it
happy. Their condition gave us unceasing solicitude, and was the
principal subject of our conversation.
Though the weather was stormy on the 26th, Samandrè assisted me to
gather _tripe de roche_. Adam, who was very ill, and could not now be
prevailed upon to eat this weed, subsisted principally on bones, though
he also partook of the soup. The _tripe de roche_ had hitherto afforded
us our chief support, and we naturally felt great uneasiness at the
prospect of being deprived of it, by its being so frozen as to render it
impossible for us to gather it.