CHAPTER X[6].

[6] It will be seen hereafter that I had the misfortune to lose my

portfolio containing my journals from Fort Enterprise to the 14th

of September. But the loss has been amply redeemed by my brother

officers' journals, from which the narrative up to that period has

been chiefly compiled.

Departure from Fort Enterprise--Navigation of the Copper-Mine

River--Visit to the Copper Mountain--Interview with the

Esquimaux--Departure of the Indian Hunters--Arrangements made with

them for our return.

1821. June 14.

The trains for the canoes having been finished during the night, the

party attached to them commenced their journey at ten this morning. Each

canoe was dragged by four men assisted by two dogs. They took the route

of Winter Lake, with the intention of following, although more

circuitous, the water-course as far as practicable, it being safer for

the canoes than travelling over land. After their departure, the

remaining stores, the instruments, and our small stock of dried meat,

amounting only to eighty pounds, were distributed equally among Hepburn,

three Canadians, and the two Esquimaux; with this party and two Indian

hunters, we quitted Fort Enterprise, most sincerely rejoicing that the

long-wished-for day had arrived, when we were to proceed towards the

final object of the Expedition.

We left in one of the rooms a box, containing a journal of the

occurrences up to this date, the charts and some drawings, which was to

be conveyed to Fort Chipewyan by Mr. Wentzel, on his return from the

sea, and thence to be sent to England. The room was blocked up, and, by

the advice of Mr. Wentzel, a drawing representing a man holding a dagger

in a threatening attitude, was affixed to the door, to deter any Indians

from breaking it open. We directed our course towards the Dog-rib Rock,

but as our companions were loaded with the weight of near one hundred

and eighty pounds each, we of necessity proceeded at a slow pace. The

day was extremely warm, and the musquitoes, whose attacks had hitherto

been feeble, issued forth in swarms from the marshes, and were very

tormenting. Having walked five miles we encamped near a small cluster of

pines about two miles from the Dog-rib Rock. The canoe party had not

been seen since they set out. Our hunters went forward to Marten Lake,

intending to wait for us at a place where two deer were deposited. At

nine P.M. the temperature of the air was 63°.

We resumed our march at an early hour, and crossed several lakes which

lay in our course, as the ice enabled the men to drag their burdens on

trains formed of sticks and deers' horns, with more ease than they could

carry them on their backs. We were kept constantly wet by this

operation, as the ice had broken near the shores of the lakes, but this

was little regarded as the day was unusually warm: the temperature at

two P.M. being at 82-1/2°. At Marten Lake we joined the canoe party, and

encamped with them. We had the mortification of learning from our

hunters that the meat they had put _en cache_ here, had been destroyed

by the wolverenes, and we had in consequence, to furnish the supper from

our scanty stock of dried meat. The wind changed from S.E. to N.E. in

the evening, and the weather became very cold, the thermometer being at

43° at nine P.M. The few dwarf birches we could collect afforded fire

insufficient to keep us warm, and we retired under the covering of our

blankets as soon as the supper was despatched. The N.E. breeze rendered

the night so extremely cold, that we procured but little sleep, having

neither fire nor shelter; for though we carried our tents, we had been

forced to leave the tent-poles which we could not now replace; we

therefore gladly recommenced the journey at five in the morning, and

travelled through the remaining part of the lake on the ice. Its surface

being quite smooth, the canoes were dragged along expeditiously by the

dogs, and the rest of the party had to walk very quick to keep pace with

them, which occasioned many severe falls. By the time we had reached the

end of the lake, the wind had increased to a perfect gale, and the

atmosphere was so cold that we could not proceed further with the canoes

without the risk of breaking the bark, and seriously injuring them: we

therefore crossed Winter River in them, and put up in a well-sheltered

place on a ridge of sand hills; but as the stock of provision was

scanty, we determined on proceeding as quick as possible, and leaving

the canoe-party under the charge of Mr. Wentzel. We parted from them in

the afternoon, and first directed our course towards a range of hills,

where we expected to find Antonio Fontano, who had separated from us in

the morning. In crossing towards these hills I fell through the ice into

the lake, with my bundle on my shoulders, but was soon extricated

without any injury; and Mr. Back, who left us to go in search of the

straggler, met with a similar accident in the evening. We put up on a

ridge of sand hills, where we found some pines, and made a large fire

to apprize Mr. Back and Fontano of our position. St. Germain having

killed a deer in the afternoon, we received an acceptable supply of

meat. The night was stormy and very cold.

At five the next morning, our men were sent in different directions

after our absent companions; but as the weather was foggy, we despaired

of finding them, unless they should chance to hear the muskets our

people were desired to fire. They returned, however, at ten, bringing

intelligence of them. I went immediately with Hepburn to join Mr. Back,

and directed Mr. Hood to proceed with the Canadians, and halt with them

at the spot where the hunters had killed a deer. Though Mr. Back was

much fatigued he set off with me immediately, and in the evening we

rejoined our friends on the borders of the Big Lake. The Indians

informed us that Fontano only remained a few hours with them, and then

continued his journey. We had to oppose a violent gale and frequent

snow-storms through the day, which unseasonable weather caused the

temperature to descend below the freezing point this evening. The

situation of our encampment being bleak, and our fuel stunted green

willows, we passed a very cold and uncomfortable night.

_June 18_.--Though the breeze was moderate this morning, the air was

piercingly keen. When on the point of starting, we perceived Mr.

Wentzel's party coming, and awaited his arrival to learn whether the

canoes had received any injury during the severe weather of yesterday.

Finding they had not, we proceeded to get upon the ice on the lake,

which could not be effected without walking up to the waist in water,

for some distance from its borders. We had not the command of our feet

in this situation, and the men fell often; poor Junius broke through the

ice with his heavy burden on his back, but fortunately was not hurt.

This lake is extensive, and large arms branch from its main course in

different directions. At these parts we crossed the projecting points of

land, and on each occasion had to wade as before, which so wearied every

one, that we rejoiced when we reached its north side and encamped,

though our resting-place was a bare rock. We had the happiness of

finding Fontano at this place. The poor fellow had passed the three

preceding days without tasting food, and was exhausted by anxiety and

hunger. His sufferings were considered to have been a sufficient

punishment for his imprudent conduct in separating from us, and I only

admonished him to be more cautious in future.

Having received information that the hunters had killed a deer, we sent

three men to fetch the meat, which was distributed between our party and

the canoe-men who had been encamped near to us. The thermometer at three

P.M. was 46°, at nine 34°.

We commenced the following day by crossing a lake about four miles in

length, and then passed over a succession of rugged hills for nearly the

same distance. The men being anxious to reach some pine-trees, which

they had seen on their former journey, walked a quick pace, though they

were suffering from swelled legs and rheumatic pains; we could not,

however, attain the desired point, and therefore encamped on the

declivity of a hill, which sheltered us from the wind; and used the

rein-deer moss for fuel, which afforded us more warmth than we expected.

Several patches of snow were yet remaining on the surrounding hills. The

thermometer varied to-day between 55° and 45°.

On the 20th of June we began our march by crossing a small lake, not

without much risk, as the surface of the ice was covered with water to

the depth of two feet, and there were many holes into which we slipped,

in spite of our efforts to avoid them. A few of the men, being fearful

of attempting the traverse with their heavy loads, walked round the

eastern end of the lake. The parties met on the sandy ridge, which

separates the streams that fall into Winter Lake from those that flow to

the northward; and here we killed three deer. Near the base of this

ridge we crossed a small but rapid stream, in which there is a

remarkable cascade of about fifty feet. Some Indians joined us here, and

gave information respecting the situation of Dr. Richardson's tent,

which our hunters considered was sufficient for our guidance, and

therefore proceeded as quickly as they could. We marched a few miles

farther in the evening, and encamped among some pines; but the comfort

of a good fire did not compensate for the torment we suffered from the

host of musquitoes at this spot. The temperature was 52°.

We set off next morning at a very early hour. The men took the course of

Point Lake, that they might use their sledges, but the officers pursued

the nearest route by land to Dr. Richardson's tent, which we reached at

eleven A.M. It was on the western side of an arm of the lake and near

the part through which the Copper-Mine River runs. Our men arrived soon

after us, and in the evening Mr. Wentzel and his party, with the canoes

in excellent condition. They were much jaded by their fatiguing journey

and several were lame from swellings of the lower extremities. The ice

on the lake was still six or seven feet thick, and there was no

appearance of its decay except near the edges; and as it was evident

that, by remaining here until it should be removed, we might lose every

prospect of success in our undertaking, I determined on dragging our

stores along its surface, until we should come to a part of the river

where we could embark; and directions were given this evening for each

man to prepare a train for the conveyance of his portion of the stores.

I may remark here, as a proof of the strong effect of radiation from the

earth in melting the ice, that the largest holes in the ice were always

formed at the base of the high and steep cliffs, which abound on the

borders of this lake.

We found Akaitcho and the hunters encamped here, but their families, and

the rest of the tribe, had gone off two days before to the Beth-see-to,

a large lake to the northward, where they intended passing the summer.

Long-legs and Keskarrah had departed, to desire the Hook to collect as

much meat as he could against our arrival at his lodge. We were

extremely distressed to learn from Dr. Richardson, that Akaitcho and his

party had expended all the ammunition they had received at Fort

Enterprise, without having contributed any supply of provision. The

Doctor had, however, through the assistance of two hunters he kept with

him, prepared two hundred pounds of dried meat, which was now our sole

dependance for the journey. On the following morning I represented to

Akaitcho that we had been greatly disappointed by his conduct, which was

so opposite to the promise of exertion he had made, on quitting Fort

Enterprise. He offered many excuses, but finding they were not

satisfactory, admitted that the greater part of the ammunition had been

given to those who accompanied the women to the Beth-see-to, and

promised to behave better in future. I then told him, that I intended in

future to give them ammunition only in proportion to the meat which was

brought in, and that we should commence upon that plan, by supplying him

with fifteen balls, and each of the hunters with ten.

The number of our hunters was now reduced to five, as two of the most

active declined going any further, their father, who thought himself

dying, having solicited them to remain and close his eyes. These five

were furnished with ammunition, and sent forward to hunt on the south

border of the lake, with directions to place any meat they might

procure near the edge of the lake, and set up marks to guide us to the

spots. Akaitcho, his brother, the guide, and three other men, remained

to accompany us. We were much surprised to perceive an extraordinary

difference in climate in so short an advance to the northward as fifty

miles. The snow here was lying in large patches on the hills. The

dwarf-birch and willows were only just beginning to open their buds,

which had burst forth at Fort Enterprise many days before our departure.

Vegetation seemed to be three weeks or a month later here than at that

place. We had heavy showers of rain through the night of the 22d, which

melted the snow, and visibly wasted the ice.

On the 23d, the men were busily employed in making their trains, and in

pounding the meat for pemmican. The situation of the encampment was

ascertained, latitude 65° 12' 40" N., longitude 113° 8' 25" W., and the

variation 43° 4' 20" E. The arrangements being completed, we purposed

commencing our journey next morning, but the weather was too stormy to

venture upon the lake with the canoes. In the afternoon a heavy fall of

snow took place, succeeded by sleet and rain. The north-east gale

continued, but the thermometer rose to 39°.

_June 25_.--The wind having abated in the night, we prepared for

starting at an early hour. The three canoes were mounted on sledges, and

nine men were appointed to conduct them, having the assistance of two

dogs to each canoe. The stores and provisions were distributed equally

among the rest of our men, except a few small articles which the Indians

carried. The provision consisted of only two bags of pemmican, two of

pounded meat, five of suet, and two small bundles of dried provision,

together with fresh meat sufficient for our supper at night. It was

gratifying to witness the readiness with which the men prepared for and

commenced a journey, which threatened to be so very laborious, as each

of them had to drag upwards of one hundred and eighty pounds on his

sledge.

Our course led down the main channel of the lake, which varied in

breadth from half a mile to three miles; but we proceeded at a slow

pace, as the snow, which fell last night, and still lay on the ice, very

much impeded the sledges. Many extensive arms branched off on the north

side of this channel, and it was bounded on the south by a chain of

lofty islands. The hills on both sides rose to six or seven hundred

feet, and high steep cliffs were numerous. Clusters of pines were

occasionally seen in the valleys. We put up, at eight P.M., in a spot

which afforded us but a few twigs for fuel. The party was much fatigued,

and several of the men were affected by an inflammation on the inside of

the thigh attended with hardness and swelling. The distance made to-day

was six miles.

We started at ten next morning. The day was extremely hot, and the men

were soon jaded; their lameness increased very much, and some not

previously affected began to complain. The dogs too shewed symptoms of

great weakness, and one of them stretched himself obstinately on the

ice, and was obliged to be released from the harness. We were,

therefore, compelled to encamp at an early hour, having come only four

miles. The sufferings of the people in this early stage of our journey

were truly discouraging to them, and very distressing to us, whose

situation was comparatively easy. I, therefore, determined on leaving

the third canoe, which had been principally carried to provide against

any accident to the others. We should thus gain three men, to lighten

the loads of those who were most lame, and an additional dog for each of

the other canoes. It was accordingly properly secured on a stage erected

for the purpose near the encampment. Dried meat was issued for supper,

but in the course of the evening the Indians killed two deer, for which

we immediately sent.

The channel of the lake through which we had passed to-day was bounded

on both sides by islands of considerable height, presenting bold and

rugged scenery. We were informed by our guide, that a large body of the

lake lies to the northward of a long island which we passed.

Another deer was killed next morning, but as the men breakfasted off it

before they started, the additional weight was not materially felt. The

burdens of the men being considerably lightened by the arrangements of

last evening, the party walked at the rate of one mile and three

quarters an hour until the afternoon, when our pace was slackened, as

the ice was more rough, and our lame companions felt their sores very

galling. At noon we passed a deep bay on the south side, which is said

to receive a river. Throughout the day's march the hills on each side of

the lake bore a strong resemblance, in height and form, to those about

Fort Enterprise. We encamped on the north main shore, among some spruce

trees, having walked eight miles and a half. Three or four fish were

caught with lines through holes, which the water had worn in the ice. We

perceived a light westerly current at these places.

It rained heavily during the night, and this was succeeded by a dense

fog on the morning of the 28th. Being short of provisions we commenced

our journey, though the points of land were not discernible beyond a

short distance. The surface of the ice, being honeycombed by the recent

rains, presented innumerable sharp points, which tore our shoes and

lacerated the feet at every step. The poor dogs, too, marked their path

with their blood.

In the evening the atmosphere became clear, and, at five P.M., we

reached the rapid by which Point Lake communicates with Red-Rock Lake.

This rapid is only one hundred yards wide, and we were much disappointed

at finding the Copper-Mine River such an inconsiderable stream. The

canoes descended the rapid, but the cargoes were carried across the

peninsula, and placed again on the sledges, as the next lake was still

frozen. We passed an extensive arm, branching to the eastward, and

encamped just below it, on the western bank, among spruce pines, having

walked six miles of direct distance. The rolled stones on the beach are

principally red clay slate, hence its Indian appellation, which we have

retained.

We continued our journey at the usual hour next morning. At noon the

variation was observed to be 47° east. Our attention was afterwards

directed to some pine branches, scattered on the ice, which proved to be

marks placed by our hunters, to guide us to the spot where they had

deposited the carcasses of two small deer. This supply was very

seasonable, and the men cheerfully dragged the additional weight.

Akaitcho, judging from the appearance of the meat, thought it had been

placed here three days ago, and that the hunters were considerably in

advance. We put up at six P.M., near the end of the lake, having come

twelve miles and three quarters, and found the channel open by which it

is connected with the Rock-nest Lake. A river was pointed out, bearing

south from our encampment, which is said to rise near Great Marten Lake.

Red-Rock Lake is in general narrow, its shelving banks are well clothed

with wood, and even the hills, which attain an elevation of four hundred

or five hundred feet, are ornamented half way up, with stunted pines.

On June 30, the men having gummed the canoes, embarked with their

burdens to descend the river; but we accompanied the Indians about five

miles across a neck of land, when we also embarked. The river was about

two hundred yards wide, and its course being uninterrupted, we cherished

a sanguine hope of now getting on more speedily, until we perceived that

the waters of Rock-nest Lake were still bound by ice, and that recourse

must again be had to the sledges. The ice was much decayed, and the

party were exposed to great risk of breaking through in making the

traverse. In one part we had to cross an open channel in the canoes, and

in another were compelled to quit the Lake, and make a portage along the

land. When the party had got upon the ice again, our guide evinced much

uncertainty as to the route. He first directed us towards the west end

of the lake; but when we had nearly gained that point, he discovered a

remarkable rock to the north-east, named by the Indians the Rock-nest,

and then recollected that the river ran at its base. Our course was

immediately changed to that direction, but the traverse we had then to

make was more dangerous than the former one. The ice cracked under us at

every step, and the party were obliged to separate widely to prevent

accidents. We landed at the first point we could approach, but having

found an open channel close to the shore, were obliged to ferry the

goods across on pieces of ice. The fresh meat being expended we had to

make another inroad on our pounded meat. The evening was very warm, and

the musquitoes numerous. A large fire was made to apprize the hunters of

our advance. The scenery of Rock-nest Lake is picturesque, its shores

are rather low, except at the Rock's nest, and two or three eminences on

the eastern side. The only wood is the pine, which is twenty or thirty

feet high, and about one foot in diameter. Our distance to-day was six

miles.

_July 1_.--Our guide directed us to proceed towards a deep bay on the

north side of the lake, where he supposed we should find the river. In

consequence of the bad state of the ice, we employed all the different

modes of travelling we had previously followed in attaining this place;

and, in crossing a point of land, had the misfortune to lose one of the

dogs, which set off in pursuit of some rein-deer. Arriving at the bay,

we only found a stream that fell into it from the north-east, and looked

in vain for the Copper-Mine River. This circumstance confused the guide,

and he confessed that he was now doubtful of the proper route; we,

therefore, halted, and despatched him, with two men, to look for the

river from the top of the high hills near the Rock-nest. During this

delay a slight injury was repaired, which one of the canoes had

received. We were here amused by the sight of a wolf chasing two

rein-deer on the ice. The pursuer being alarmed at the sight of our men,

gave up the chase when near to the hindmost, much to our regret, for we

were calculating upon the chance of sharing in his capture.

At four P.M. our men returned, with the agreeable information that they

had seen the river flowing at the base of the Rock-nest. The canoes and

stores were immediately placed on the ice, and dragged thither; we then

embarked, but soon had to cut through a barrier of drift ice that

blocked up the way. We afterwards descended two strong rapids, and

encamped near the discharge of a small stream which flows from an

adjoining lake. The Copper-Mine River, at this point, is about two

hundred yards wide, and ten feet deep, and flows very rapidly over a

rocky bottom. The scenery of its banks is picturesque, the hills shelve

to the water-side, and are well covered with wood, and the surface of

the rocks is richly ornamented with lichens. The Indians say that the

same kind of country prevails as far as Mackenzie's River in this

parallel; but that the land to the eastward is perfectly barren.

Akaitcho and one of the Indians killed two deer, which were immediately

sent for. Two of the hunters arrived in the night, and we learned that

their companions, instead of being in advance, as we supposed, were

staying at the place where we first found the river open. They had only

seen our fires last evening, and had sent to examine who we were. The

circumstance of having passed them was very vexatious, as they had three

deer _en cache_, at their encampment. However, an Indian was sent to

desire those who remained to join us, and bring the meat.

We embarked at nine A.M. on July 2nd, and descended a succession of

strong rapids for three miles. We were carried along with extraordinary

rapidity, shooting over large stones, upon which a single stroke would

have been destructive to the canoes; and we were also in danger of

breaking them, from the want of the long poles which lie along their

bottoms and equalize their cargoes, as they plunged very much, and on

one occasion the first canoe was almost filled with the waves. But there

was no receding after we had once launched into the stream, and our

safety depended on the skill and dexterity of the bowmen and steersmen.

The banks of the river here are rocky, and the scenery beautiful;

consisting of gentle elevations and dales wooded to the edge of the

stream, and flanked on both sides at the distance of three or four miles

by a range of round-backed barren hills, upwards of six hundred feet

high. At the foot of the rapids the high lands recede to a greater

distance, and the river flows with a more gentle current, in a wider

channel, through a level and open country consisting of alluvial sand.

In one place the passage was blocked up by drift ice, still deeply

covered with snow. A channel for the canoes was made for some distance

with the hatchets and poles; but on reaching the more compact part, we

were under the necessity of transporting the canoes and cargoes across

it; an operation of much hazard, as the snow concealed the numerous

holes which the water had made in the ice. This expansion of the river

being mistaken by the guide for a lake, which he spoke of as the last on

our route to the sea, we supposed that we should have no more ice to

cross, and therefore encamped after passing through it, to fit the

canoes properly for the voyage, and to provide poles, which are not only

necessary to strengthen them when placed in the bottom, but essentially

requisite for the safe management of them in dangerous rapids. The guide

began afterwards to doubt whether the lake he meant was not further on,

and he was sent with two men to examine into the fact, who returned in

the evening with the information of its being below us, but that there

was an open channel through it. This day was very sultry, and several

plants appeared in flower.

The men were employed in repairing their canoes to a late hour, and

commenced very early next morning, as we were desirous of availing

ourselves of every part of this favourable weather. The hunters arrived

in the course of the night. It appeared that the dog which escaped from

us two days ago came into the vicinity of their encampment, howling

piteously; seeing him without his harness, they came to the hasty

conclusion that our whole party had perished in a rapid; and throwing

away part of their baggage, and leaving the meat behind them, they set

off with the utmost haste to join Long-legs. Our messenger met them in

their flight, but too far advanced to admit of their returning for the

meat. Akaitcho scolded them heartily for their thoughtlessness in

leaving the meat, which we so much wanted. They expressed their regret,

and being ashamed of their panic, proposed to remedy the evil as much as

possible by going forward, without stopping, until they came to a

favourable spot for hunting, which they expected to do about thirty or

forty miles below our present encampment. Akaitcho accompanied them, but

previous to setting off he renewed his charge that we should be on our

guard against the bears, which was occasioned by the hunters having

fired at one this morning as they were descending a rapid in their

canoe. As their small canoes would only carry five persons, two of the

hunters had to walk in turns along the banks.

In our rambles round the encampment, we witnessed with pleasure the

progress which vegetation had made within the few last warm days; most

of the trees had put forth their leaves, and several flowers ornamented

the moss-covered ground; many of the smaller summer birds were observed

in the woods, and a variety of ducks, gulls, and plovers, sported on the

banks of the river. It is about three hundred yards wide at this part,

is deep and flows over a bed of alluvial sand. We caught some trout of

considerable size with our lines, and a few white fish in the nets,

which maintained us, with a little assistance from the pemmican. The

repair of our canoes was completed this evening. Before embarking I

issued an order that no rapid should in future be descended until the

bowman had examined it, and decided upon its being safe to run. Wherever

the least danger was to be apprehended, or the crew had to disembark for

the purpose of lightening the canoe, the ammunition, guns and

instruments, were always to be put out and carried along the bank, that

we might be provided with the means of subsisting ourselves, in case of

any accident befalling the canoes.

The situation of our encampment was ascertained to be 65° 43' 28" N.,

longitude 114° 26' 45" W., and the variation 42° 17' 22" E.

At four in the morning of July 4th we embarked and descended a

succession of very agitated rapids, but took the precaution of landing

the articles mentioned yesterday, wherever there appeared any hazard;

notwithstanding all our precautions the leading canoe struck with great

force against a stone, and the bark was split, but this injury was

easily repaired, and we regretted only the loss of time. At eleven we

came to an expansion of the river where the current ran with less force,

and an accumulation of drift ice had, in consequence, barred the

channel; over this the canoes and cargoes were carried. The ice in many

places adhered to the banks, and projected in wide ledges several feet

thick over the stream, which had hollowed them out beneath. On one

occasion as the people were embarking from one of these ledges, it

suddenly gave way, and three men were precipitated into the water, but

were rescued without further damage than a sound ducking, and the canoe

fortunately (and narrowly) escaped being crushed. Perceiving one of the

Indians sitting on the east bank of the river, we landed, and having

learned from him that Akaitcho and the hunters had gone in pursuit of a

herd of musk oxen, we encamped, having come twenty-four miles and a

half.

In the afternoon they brought us the agreeable intelligence of having

killed eight cows, of which four were full grown. All the party were

immediately despatched to bring in this seasonable supply. A young cow,

irritated by the firing of the hunters, ran down to the river, and

passed close to me when walking at a short distance from the tents. I

fired and wounded it, when the animal instantly turned, and ran at me,

but I avoided its fury by jumping aside and getting upon an elevated

piece of ground. In the mean time some people came from the tents, and

it took to flight.

The musk oxen, like the buffalo, herd together in bands, and generally

frequent the barren grounds during the summer months, keeping near the

rivers, but retire to the woods in winter. They seem to be less watchful

than most other wild animals, and when grazing are not difficult to

approach, provided the hunters go against the wind; when two or three

men get so near a herd as to fire at them from different points, these

animals instead of separating or running away, huddle closer together,

and several are generally killed; but if the wound is not mortal they

become enraged and dart in the most furious manner at the hunters, who

must be very dextrous to evade them. They can defend themselves by their

powerful horns against the wolves and bears, which, as the Indians say,

they not unfrequently kill.

The musk oxen feed on the same substances with the rein-deer, and the

prints of the feet of these two animals are so much alike, that it

requires the eye of an experienced hunter to distinguish them. The

largest killed by us did not exceed in weight three hundred pounds. The

flesh has a musky disagreeable flavour, particularly when the animal is

lean, which unfortunately for us was the case with all that we now

killed.

During this day's march the river varied in breadth from one hundred to

two hundred feet, and except in two open spaces, a very strong current

marked a deep descent the whole way. It flows over a bed of gravel, of

which also its immediate banks are composed. Near to our encampment it

is bounded by cliffs of fine sand from one hundred to two hundred feet

high. Sandy plains extend on a level with the summit of these cliffs,

and at the distance of six or seven miles are terminated by ranges of

hills eight hundred or one thousand feet high. The grass on these plains

affords excellent pasturage for the musk oxen, and they generally

abound here. The hunters added two more to our stock in the course of

the night. As we had now more meat than the party could consume fresh,

we delayed our voyage next day to dry it. The hunters were supplied with

more ammunition, and sent forward; but Akaitcho, his brother, and

another Indian, remained with us.

It may here be proper to mention, that the officers had treated Akaitcho

more distantly since our departure from Point Lake, to mark their

opinion of his misconduct. The diligence in hunting, however, which he

had evinced at this place, induced us to receive him more familiarly

when he came to the tent this evening. During our conversation he

endeavoured to excite suspicions in our minds against the Hook, by

saying, "I am aware that you consider me the worst man of my nation; but

I know the Hook to be a great rogue, and, I think he will disappoint

you."

On the morning of the 6th we embarked, and descended a series of rapids,

having twice unloaded the canoes where the water was shallow. After

passing the mouth of the Fairy[7] Lake River the rapids ceased. The

main stream was then about three hundred yards wide, and generally deep,

though, in one part, the channel was interrupted by several sandy banks,

and low alluvial islands covered with willows. It flows between banks of

sand thinly wooded, and as we advanced the barren hills approached the

water's edge.

[7] This is an Indian name. The Northern Indian fairies are six inches

high, lead a life similar to the Indians, and are excellent

hunters. Those who have had the good fortune to fall in with their

tiny encampments have been kindly treated, and regaled on venison.

We did not learn with certainty whether the existence of these

delightful creatures is known from Indian tradition, or whether

the Indians owe their knowledge of them to their intercourse with

the traders, but think the former probable.

At ten we rejoined our hunters, who had killed a deer, and halted to

breakfast. We sent them forward; one of them, who was walking along the

shore afterwards, fired upon two brown bears, and wounded one of them,

which instantly turned and pursued him. His companions in the canoes put

ashore to his assistance, but did not succeed in killing the bears,

which fled upon the reinforcement coming up. During the delay thus

occasioned we overtook them, and they continued with us the rest of the

day.

We encamped at the foot of a lofty range of mountains, which appear to

be from twelve to fifteen hundred feet high; they are in general round

backed, but the outline is not even, being interrupted by craggy conical

eminences. This is the first ridge of hills we have seen in this

country, that deserves the appellation of a mountain range; it is

probably a continuation of the Stony Mountains crossed by Hearne. Many

plants appeared in full flower near the tents, and Dr. Richardson

gathered some high up on the hills. The distance we made to-day was

fifty miles.

There was a hoar frost in the night, and the temperature, at four next

morning, was 40°: embarking at that hour, we glided quickly down the

stream, and by seven arrived at the Hook's encampment, which was placed

on the summit of a lofty sand cliff, whose base was washed by the river.

This chief had with him only three hunters, and a few old men and their

families, the rest of his band having remained at their snares in Bear

Lake. His brother, Long-legs, and our guide, Keskarrah, who had joined

him three days before, had communicated to him our want of provision,

and we were happy to find that, departing from the general practice of

Indian chiefs, he entered at once upon the business, without making a

long speech. As an introductory mark of our regard, I decorated him with

a medal similar to those which had been given to the other leaders. The

Hook began by stating, "that he was aware of our being destitute of

provision, and of the great need we had of an ample stock, to enable us

to execute our undertaking; and his regret, that the unusual scarcity of

animals this season, together with the circumstance of his having only

just received a supply of ammunition from Fort Providence, had prevented

him from collecting the quantity of meat he had wished to do for our

use. The amount, indeed," he said, "is very small, but I will cheerfully

give you what I have: we are too much indebted to the white people, to

allow them to want food on our lands, whilst we have any to give them.

Our families can live on fish until we can procure more meat, but the

season is too short to allow of your delaying, to gain subsistence in

that manner." He immediately desired, aloud, that the women should bring

all the meat they had to us; and we soon collected sufficient to make

three bags and a half of pemmican, besides some dried meat and tongues.

We were truly delighted by this prompt and cheerful behaviour, and would

gladly have rewarded the kindness of himself and his companions by some

substantial present, but we were limited by the scantiness of our store

to a small donation of fifteen charges of ammunition to each of the

chiefs. In return for the provision they accepted notes on the

North-West Company, to be paid at Fort Providence; and to these was

subjoined an order for a few articles of clothing, as an additional

present. I then endeavoured to prevail upon the Hook to remain in this

vicinity with his hunters until the autumn, and to make deposits of

provision in different parts of the course to the sea, as a resource for

our party, in the event of our being compelled to return by this route.

He required time, however, to consider this matter, and promised to give

me an answer next day. I was rejoiced to find him then prepared to meet

my wish, and the following plan was agreed upon:--As the animals abound,

at all times, on the borders of Bear Lake, he promised to remain on the

east side of it until the month of November, at that spot which is

nearest to the Copper-Mine River, from whence there is a communication

by a chain of lakes and portages. There the principal deposit of

provision was to be made; but during the summer the hunters were to be

employed in putting up supplies of dried meat at convenient distances,

not only along the communication from this river, but also upon its

banks, as far down as the Copper Mountain. They were also to place

particular marks to guide our course to their lodges. We contracted to

pay them liberally, whether we returned by this way or not; if we did,

they were to accompany us to Fort Providence to receive the reward;

and, at any rate, I promised to send the necessary documents by Mr.

Wentzel, from the sea-coast, to ensure them an ample remuneration. With

this arrangement they were perfectly satisfied, and we could not be less

so, knowing they had every motive for fulfilling their promises, as the

place they had chosen to remain at is their usual hunting-ground. The

uncommon anxiety these chiefs expressed for our safety, appeared to us

likely to prompt them to every care and attention, and I record their

expressions with gratitude. After representing the numerous hardships we

should have to encounter in the strongest manner, though in language

similar to what we had often heard from our friend Akaitcho, they

earnestly entreated we would be constantly on our guard against the

treachery of the Esquimaux; and no less forcibly desired we would not

proceed far along the coast, as they dreaded the consequences of our

being exposed to a tempestuous sea in canoes, and having to endure the

cold of the autumn on a shore destitute of fuel. The Hook, having been

an invalid for several years, rejoiced at the opportunity of consulting

Dr. Richardson, who immediately gave him advice, and supplied him with

medicine.

The pounded meat and fat were converted into pemmican, preparatory to

our voyage.

The result of our observations at the Hook's encampment was, latitude

66° 45' 11" N., longitude 115° 42' 23" W., variation of the compass 46°

7' 30" E.

We embarked at eleven to proceed on our journey. Akaitcho and his

brother, the guide, being in the first canoe, and old Keskarrah in the

other. We wished to dispense with the further attendance of two guides,

and made a proposition that either of them might remain here, but

neither would relinquish the honour of escorting the Expedition to the

sea. One of our hunters, however, was less eager for this distinction,

and preferred remaining with Green Stockings, Keskarrah's fascinating

daughter. The other four, with the Little Singer, accompanied us, two of

them conducting their small canoes in turns, and the rest walking along

the beach.

The river flows over a bed of sand, and winds in an uninterrupted

channel of from three quarters to a mile broad, between two ranges of

hills, which are pretty even in their outline, and round backed, but

having rather steep acclivities. The immediate borders of the stream

consist either of high banks of sand, or steep gravel cliffs; and

sometimes, where the hills recede to a little distance, the intervening

space is occupied by high sandy ridges.

At three P.M., after passing along the foot of a high range of hills,

we arrived at the portage leading to the Bear Lake, to which we have

previously alluded. Its position is very remarkable, being at the most

westerly part of the Copper-Mine River, and at the point where it

resumes a northern course, and forces a passage through the lofty ridge

of mountains, to which it has run parallel for the last thirty miles. As

the Indians travel from hence, with their families, in three days to the

point where they have proposed staying for us, the distance, I think,

cannot exceed forty miles; and admitting the course to be due west,

which is the direction the guide pointed, it would place the eastern

part of Bear Lake in 118-1/4° W. longitude.

Beyond this spot the river is diminished in breadth and a succession of

rapids are formed; but as the water was deep, we passed through them

without discharging any part of the cargoes. It still runs between high

ranges of mountains, though its actual boundaries are banks of mud mixed

with clay, which are clothed with stunted pines. We picked up a deer

which the hunters had shot, and killed another from the canoe; and also

received an addition to our stock of provision of seven young geese,

which the hunters had beaten down with their sticks. About six P.M. we

perceived a mark on the shore, which on examination was found to have

been recently put up by some Indians: and, on proceeding further, we

discerned stronger proofs of their vicinity; we, therefore, encamped,

and made a large fire as a signal, which they answered in a similar way.

Mr. Wentzel was immediately sent, in expectation of getting provision

from them. On his return, we learned that the party consisted of three

old Copper Indians, with their families who had supported themselves

with the bow and arrow since last autumn, not having visited Fort

Providence for more than a year; and so successful had they been, that

they were enabled to supply us with upwards of seventy pounds of dried

meat, and six moose skins fit for making shoes, which were the more

valuable as we were apprehensive of being barefooted before the journey

could be completed. The evening was sultry, and the musquitoes appeared

in great numbers. The distance made to-day was twenty-five miles.

On the following morning we went down to these Indians, and delivered to

them notes on the North-West Company, for the meat and skins they had

furnished; and we had then the mortification of learning, that not

having people to carry a considerable quantity of pounded meat, which

they had intended for us, they had left it upon the Bear Lake Portage.

They promised, however to get it conveyed to the banks of this river

before we could return, and we rewarded them with a present of knives

and files.

After re-embarking we continued to descend the river, which was now

contracted between lofty banks to about one hundred and twenty yards

wide; the current was very strong. At eleven we came to a rapid which

had been the theme of discourse with the Indians for many days, and

which they had described to us as impassable in canoes. The river here

descends for three quarters of a mile, in a deep, but narrow and

crooked, channel, which it has cut through the foot of a hill of five

hundred or six hundred feet high. It is confined between perpendicular

cliffs, resembling stone walls, varying in height from eighty to one

hundred and fifty feet, on which lies a mass of fine sand. The body of

the river pent within this narrow chasm, dashed furiously round the

projecting rocky columns, and discharged itself at the northern

extremity in a sheet of foam. The canoes, after being lightened of part

of their cargoes, ran through this defile without sustaining any injury.

Accurate sketches of this interesting scene were taken by Messrs. Back

and Hood. Soon after passing this rapid, we perceived the hunters

running up the east side of the river, to prevent us from disturbing a

herd of musk oxen, which they had observed grazing on the opposite bank;

we put them across and they succeeded in killing six, upon which we

encamped for the purpose of drying the meat. The country below the Rocky

Defile Rapid consists of sandy plains; broken by small conical eminences

also of sand; and bounded to the westward by a continuation of the

mountain chain, which we had crossed at the Bear Lake Portage; and to

the eastward and northward, at the distance of twelve miles, by the

Copper Mountains, which Mr. Hearne visited. The plains are crowned by

several clumps of moderately large spruces about thirty feet high.

This evening the Indians made a large fire, as a signal to the Hook's

party that we had passed the _terrific_ rapid in safety.

The position of our encampment was ascertained to be, latitude 67° 1'

10" N., longitude 116° 27' 28" W., variation of the compass 44° 11' 43"

E., dip of the needle 87° 31' 18".

Some thunder showers retarded the drying of the meat, and our

embarkation was delayed till next day. The hunters were sent forward to

hunt at the Copper Mountains, under the superintendence of Adam, the

interpreter, who received strict injunctions not to permit them to make

any large fires, lest they should alarm straggling parties of the

Esquimaux.

The musquitoes were now very numerous and annoying, but we consoled

ourselves with the hope that their season would be short.

On the 11th we started at three A.M., and as the guide had represented

the river below our encampment to be full of shoals, some of the men

were directed to walk along the shore, but they were assailed so

violently by the musquitoes, as to be compelled to embark very soon; and

we afterwards passed over the shallow parts by the aid of the poles,

without experiencing much interruption. The current ran very rapidly,

having been augmented by the waters of the Mouse River and several small

streams. We rejoined our hunters at the foot of the Copper Mountains,

and found they had killed three musk oxen. This circumstance determined

us on encamping to dry the meat, as there was wood at the spot. We

availed ourselves of this delay to visit the Copper Mountains in search

of specimens of the ore, agreeably to my instructions{18}; and a party

of twenty-one persons, consisting of the officers, some of the voyagers,

and all the Indians, set{19} off on that excursion. We travelled for

nine hours over a considerable space of ground, but found only a few

small pieces of native copper. The range we ascended was on the west

side of the river, extending W.N.W. and E.S.E. The mountains varied in

height from twelve to fifteen hundred feet. The uniformity of the

mountains is interrupted by narrow valleys traversed by small streams.

The best specimens of metal we procured were among the stones in these

valleys, and it was in such situations, that our guides desired us to

search most carefully. It would appear, that when the Indians see any

sparry substance projecting above the surface, they dig there; but they

have no other rule to direct them, and have never found the metal in its

original repository. Our guides reported that they had found copper in

large pieces in every part of this range, for two days' walk to the

north-west, and that the Esquimaux come hither to search for it. The

annual visits which the Copper Indians were accustomed to make to these

mountains, when most of their weapons and utensils were made of copper,

have been discontinued since they have been enabled to obtain a supply

of ice chisels and other instruments of iron by the establishment of

trading posts near their hunting grounds. That none of those who

accompanied us had visited them for many years was evident, from their

ignorance of the spots most abundant in metal.

The impracticability of navigating the river upwards from the sea, and

the want of wood for forming an establishment, would prove insuperable

objections to rendering the collection of copper at this part worthy of

mercantile speculation.

We had the opportunity of surveying the country from several elevated

positions. Two or three small lakes only were visible, still partly

frozen; and much snow remained on the mountains. The trees were reduced

to a scanty fringe on the borders of the river, and every side was beset

by naked mountains.

The day was unusually warm, and, therefore, favourable for drying the

meat. Our whole stock of provision, calculated for preservation, was

sufficient for fourteen days, without any diminution of the ordinary

allowance of three pounds to each man per day. The situation of our

tents was 67° 10' 30" N., longitude 116° 25' 45" W.

_July{20} 12_.--The Indians knowing the course of the

river below this point to be only a succession of rapids, declined

taking their canoes any further; but as I conceived one of them would be

required, should we be compelled to walk along the coast, two of our

men were appointed to conduct it.

As we were now entering the confines of the Esquimaux country, our

guides recommended us to be cautious in lighting fires, lest we should

discover ourselves, adding that the same reason would lead them to

travel as much as possible in the valleys, and to avoid crossing the

tops of the hills. We embarked at six A.M., taking with us only old

Keskarrah. The other Indians walked along the banks of the river.

Throughout this day's voyage the current was very strong, running four

or five miles an hour; but the navigation was tolerable, and we had to

lighten the canoes only once, in a contracted part of the river where

the waves were very high. The river is in many places confined between

perpendicular walls of rock to one hundred and fifty yards in width, and

there the rapids were most agitated. Large masses of ice twelve or

fourteen feet thick, were still adhering to many parts of the bank,

indicating the tardy departure of winter from this inhospitable land,

but the earth around them was rich with vegetation. In the evening two

musk-oxen being seen on the beach, were pursued and killed by our men.

Whilst we were waiting to embark the meat, the Indians rejoined us, and

reported they had been attacked by a bear, which sprung upon them

whilst they were conversing together. His attack was so sudden that they

had not time to level their guns properly, and they all missed except

Akaitcho, who, less confused than the rest, took deliberate aim, and

shot the animal dead. They do not eat the flesh of the bear, but knowing

that we had no such prejudice, they brought us some of the choice

pieces, which upon trial we found to be excellent meat.

The Indians having informed us that we were now within twelve miles of

the rapid where the Esquimaux have invariably been found, we pitched our

tents on the beach, under the shelter of a high hill whose precipitous

side is washed by the river, intending to send forward some persons to

determine the situation of their present abode. Some vestiges of an old

Esquimaux encampment were observed near the tents, and the stumps of the

trees bore marks of the stone hatchets they use. A strict watch was

appointed, consisting of an officer, four Canadians, and an Indian, and

directions were given for the rest of the party to sleep with their arms

by their side. That as little delay as possible might be experienced in

opening a communication with the Esquimaux, we immediately commenced

arrangements for sending forward persons to discover whether there were

any in our vicinity. Akaitcho and the guides proposed that two of the

hunters should be despatched on this service, who had extremely quick

sight, and were accustomed to act as scouts, an office which requires

equal caution and circumspection. A strong objection, however, lay

against this plan, in the probability of their being discovered by a

straggling hunter, which would be destructive to every hope of

accommodation. It was therefore determined to send Augustus and Junius,

who were very desirous to undertake the service. These adventurous men

proposed to go armed only with pistols concealed in their dress, and

furnished with beads, looking-glasses, and other articles, that they

might conciliate their countrymen by presents. We could not divest our

minds of the apprehension, that it might be a service of much hazard, if

the Esquimaux were as hostile to strangers as the Copper Indians have

invariably represented them to be; and we felt great reluctance in

exposing our two little interpreters, who had rendered themselves dear

to the whole party, to the most distant chance of receiving injury; but

this course of proceeding appeared in their opinion and our own to offer

the only chance of gaining an interview. Though not insensible to the

danger, they cheerfully prepared for their mission, and clothed

themselves in Esquimaux dresses, which had been made for the purpose at

Fort Enterprise. Augustus was desired to make his presents, and to tell

the Esquimaux that the white men had come to make peace between them and

all their enemies, and also to discover a passage by which every article

of which they stood in need might be brought in large ships. He was not

to mention that we were accompanied by the Indians, but to endeavour to

prevail on some of the Esquimaux to return with him. He was directed to

come back immediately if there were no lodges at the rapid.

The Indians were not suffered to move out of our sight, but in the

evening we permitted two of them to cross the river in pursuit of a

musk-ox, which they killed on the beach, and returned immediately. The

officers, prompted by an anxious solicitude for Augustus and Junius,

crawled up frequently to the summit of the mountain to watch their

return. The view, however, was not extensive, being bounded at the

distance of eight miles by a range of hills similar to the Copper

Mountains, but not so lofty. The night came without bringing any

intelligence of our messengers, and our fears for their safety increased

with the length of their absence.

As every one had been interested in the welfare of these men through

their vivacity and good{21} nature, and the assistance they had

cheerfully rendered in bearing their portion of whatever labour might be

going on, their detention formed the subject of all our conversation,

and numerous conjectures were hazarded as to the cause.

Dr. Richardson, having the first watch, had gone to the summit of the

hill and remained seated, contemplating the river that washed the

precipice under his feet, long after dusk had hid distant objects from

his view. His thoughts were, perhaps, far distant from the surrounding

scenery, when he was roused by an indistinct noise behind him, and on

looking round, perceived that nine white wolves had ranged themselves in

form of a crescent, and were advancing, apparently with the intention of

driving him into the river. On his rising up they halted, and when he

advanced they made way for his passage down to the tents. He had his gun

in his hand, but forbore to fire, lest there should be Esquimaux in the

neighbourhood. During Mr. Wentzel's middle watch, the wolves appeared

repeatedly on the summit of the hill, and at one time they succeeded in

driving a deer over the precipice. The animal was stunned by the fall,

but recovering itself, swam across the stream, and escaped up the river.

I may remark here, that at midnight it was tolerably dark in the valley

of the river at this time, but that an object on the eminence above

could be distinctly seen against the sky.

The following observations were taken at this encampment, latitude 67°

23' 14" N., longitude 116° 6' 51" W., variation 49° 46' 24" E.

Thermometer 75° at three P.M. Sultry weather.

Augustus and Junius not having returned next morning, we were more

alarmed respecting them, and determined on proceeding to find out the

cause of their detention, but it was eleven A.M. before we could prevail

upon the Indians to remain behind, which we wished them to do lest the

Esquimaux might be suspicious of our intentions, if they were seen in

our suite. We promised to send for them when we had paved the way for

their reception; but Akaitcho, ever ready to augur misfortune, expressed

his belief that our messengers had been killed, and that the Esquimaux,

warned of our approach, were lying in wait for us, and "although," said

he, "your party may be sufficiently strong to repulse any hostile

attack, my band is too weak to offer effectual resistance when separated

from you; and therefore, we are determined to go on with you, or to

return to our lands." After much argument, however, he yielded and

agreed to stay behind, provided Mr. Wentzel would remain with him. This

gentleman was accordingly left with a Canadian attendant, and they

promised not to pass a range of hills then in view to the northward,

unless we sent notice to them.

The river during the whole of this day's voyage flowed between alternate

cliffs of loose sand{22} intermixed with gravel, and red sand-stone

rocks, and was every where shallow and rapid. As its course was very

crooked, much time was spent in examining the different rapids previous

to running them, but the canoes descended, except at a single place,

without any difficulty. Most of the officers and half the men marched

along the land to lighten the canoes, and reconnoitre the country, each

person being armed with a gun and a dagger. Arriving at a range of

mountains which had terminated our view yesterday, we ascended it with

much eagerness, expecting to see the rapid that Mr. Hearne visited near

its base, and to gain a view of the sea; but our disappointment was

proportionably great, when we beheld beyond, a plain similar to that we

had just left, terminated by another range of trap hills, between whose

tops the summits of some distant blue mountains appeared. Our reliance

on the information of the guides, which had been for some time shaken

was now quite at an end, and we feared that the sea was still far

distant. The flat country here is covered with grass, and is devoid of

the large stones, so frequent in the barren grounds, but the ranges of

trap hills which seem to intersect it at regular distances are quite

barren. A few decayed stunted pines were standing on the borders of the

river. In the evening we had the gratification of meeting Junius, who

was hastening back to inform us that they had found four Esquimaux tents

at the Fall which we recognised to be the one described by Mr. Hearne.

The inmates were asleep at the time of their arrival, but rose soon

afterwards, and then Augustus presented himself, and had some

conversation across the river. He told them the white people had come,

who would make them very useful presents. The information of our

arrival, seemed to alarm them very much, but as the noise of the rapid

prevented them from hearing distinctly, one of them approached him in

his canoe, and received the rest of the message. He would not, however,

land on his side of the river, but returned to the tents without

receiving the present. His language differed in some respects from

Augustus's, but they understood each other tolerably well. Augustus

trusting for a supply of provision to the Esquimaux, had neglected to

carry any with him, and this was the main cause of Junius's return. We

now encamped, having come fourteen miles. After a few hours' rest,

Junius set off again to rejoin his companion, being accompanied by

Hepburn, who was directed to remain about two miles above the fall, to

arrest the canoes on their passage, lest we should too suddenly surprise

the Esquimaux. About ten P.M. we were mortified by the appearance of the

Indians with Mr. Wentzel, who had in vain endeavoured to restrain them

from following us. The only reason assigned by Akaitcho for this conduct

was, that he wished for a reassurance of my promise to establish peace

between his nation and the Esquimaux. I took this occasion of again

enforcing the necessity of their remaining behind, until we had obtained

the confidence and good-will of their enemies. After supper Dr.

Richardson ascended a lofty hill about three miles from the encampment,

and obtained the first view of the sea; it appeared to be covered with

ice. A large promontory, which I named Cape Hearne, bore N.E., and its

lofty mountains proved to be the blue land we had seen in the forenoon,

and which had led us to believe the sea was still far distant. He saw

the sun set a few minutes before midnight from the same elevated

situation. It did not rise during the half hour he remained there, but

before he reached the encampment its rays gilded the tops of the hills.

The night was warm, and we were much annoyed by the musquitoes.

_July{23} 15_.--We this morning experienced as much difficulty as before

in prevailing upon the Indians to remain behind, and they did not

consent until I had declared that they should lose the reward which had

been promised, if they proceeded any farther, before we had prepared the

Esquimaux to receive them. We left a Canadian with them, and proceeded,

not without apprehension that they would follow us, and derange our

whole plan by their obstinacy. Two of the officers and a party of the

men walked on the shore, to lighten the canoes. The river, in this part,

flows between high and stony cliffs, reddish slate clay rocks, and

shelving banks of white clay, and is full of shoals and dangerous

rapids. One of these was termed Escape Rapid, both the canoes having

narrowly escaped foundering in its high waves. We had entered the rapid

before we were aware, and the steepness of the cliffs preventing us from

landing, we were indebted to the swiftness of our descent for

preservation. Two waves made a complete breach over the canoes; a third

would in all probability have filled and overset them, which must have

proved fatal to every one in them. The powder fortunately escaped the

water, which was soon discharged when we reached the bottom of the

rapid. At noon we perceived Hepburn lying on the left bank of the river,

and landed immediately to receive his information. As he represented the

water to be shoal the whole way to the rapid (below which the Esquimaux

were,) the shore party were directed to continue their march to a sandy

bay at the head of the fall, and there await the arrival of the canoes.

The land in the neighbourhood of the rapid, is of the most singular

form: large irregular sand-hills bounding both banks, apparently so

unconnected that they resemble icebergs; the country around them

consisting of high round green hills. The river becomes wide in this

part, and full of shoals, but we had no difficulty in finding a channel

through them. On regaining the shore party, we regretted to find that

some of the men had incautiously appeared on the tops of the hills, just

at the time Augustus was conversing with one of the Esquimaux, who had

again approached in his canoe, and was almost persuaded to land. The

unfortunate appearance of so many people at this instant, revived his

fears, and he crossed over to the eastern bank of the river, and fled,

with the whole of his party. We learned from Augustus that this party,

consisting of four men and as many women, had manifested a friendly

disposition. Two of the former were very tall. The man who first came to

speak to him, inquired the number of canoes that we had with us,

expressed himself to be not displeased at our arrival, and desired him

to caution us not to attempt running the rapid, but to make the portage

on the west side of the river. Notwithstanding this appearance of

confidence and satisfaction, it seems they did not consider their

situation free from danger, as they retreated the first night, to an

island somewhat farther down the river, and in the morning they returned

and threw down their lodges, as if to give notice to any of their nation

that might arrive, that there was an enemy in the neighbourhood. From

seeing all their property strewed about, and ten of their dogs left, we

entertained the hope that these poor people would return after their

first alarm had subsided; and therefore I determined on remaining until

the next day, in the expectation of seeing them, as I considered the

opening of an early communication a matter of the greatest importance in

our state of absolute ignorance respecting the sea-coast. The canoes and

cargoes were carried across the portage, and we encamped on the north

side of it. We sent Augustus and Junius across the river to look for

the runaways, but their search was fruitless. They put a few pieces of

iron and trinkets in their canoes, which were lying on the beach. We

also sent some men to put up the stages of fish, and secure them as much

as possible from the attacks of the dogs. Under the covering of their

tents were observed some stone kettles and hatchets, a few fish spears

made of copper, two small bits of iron, a quantity of skins, and some

dried salmon, which was covered with maggots, and half putrid. The

entrails of the fish were spread out to dry. A great many skins of small

birds were hung up to a stage, and even two mice were preserved in the

same way. Thus it would appear that the necessities of these poor people

induce them to preserve every article than can be possibly used as food.

Several human skulls which bore the marks of violence, and many bones

were strewed about the ground near the encampment, and as the spot

exactly answers the description given by Mr. Hearne, of the place where

the Chipewyans who accompanied him perpetrated the dreadful massacre on

the Esquimaux, we had no doubt of this being the place, notwithstanding

the difference in its position as to latitude and longitude given by

him, and ascertained by our observation. We have, therefore, preserved

the appellation of Bloody Fall, which he bestowed upon it. Its

situation by our observations is, in latitude 67° 42' 35" N., longitude

115° 49' 33" W., variation 50° 20' 14" E. This rapid is a sort of

shelving cascade, about three hundred yards in length, having a descent

of from ten to fifteen feet. It is bounded on each side by high walls of

red sand-stone upon which rests a series of lofty green hills. On its

north side, close to the east bank, is the low rocky island which the

Esquimaux had deserted. The surrounding scenery was accurately

delineated in a sketch taken by Mr. Hood. We caught forty excellent

salmon and white fish in a single net below the rapid. We had not seen

any trees during this day's journey; our fuel consisted of small willows

and pieces of dried wood that were picked up near the encampment. The

ground is well clothed with grass, and nourishes most of the shrubs and

berry-bearing plants that we have seen north of Fort Enterprise; and the

country altogether has a richer appearance than the barren lands of the

Copper Indians. We had a distinct view of the sea from the summit of a

hill behind the tents; it appeared choked with ice and full of islands.

On the morning of the 16th three men were sent up the river to search

for dried wood to make floats for the nets. Adam, the interpreter, was

also despatched with a Canadian, to inform Akaitcho of the flight of the

Esquimaux. We were preparing to go down to the sea in one of the canoes,

leaving Mr. Back to await the return of the men who were absent; but

just as the crew were putting the canoe in the water, Adam returned in

the utmost consternation, and informed us that a party of Esquimaux were

pursuing the men whom we had sent to collect floats. The orders for

embarking were instantly countermanded, and we went with a part of our

men to their rescue. We soon met our people returning at a slow pace,

and learned that they had come unawares upon the Esquimaux party, which

consisted of six men, with their women and children, who were travelling

towards the rapid with a considerable number of dogs carrying their

baggage. The women hid themselves on the first alarm, but the men

advanced, and stopping at some distance from our men, began to dance in

a circle, tossing up their hands in the air, and accompanying their

motions with much shouting, to signify, I conceive, their desire of

peace. Our men saluted them by pulling off their hats, and making bows,

but neither party was willing to approach the other; and, at length, the

Esquimaux retired to the hill, from whence they had descended when first

seen. We proceeded in the hope of gaining an interview with them, but

lest our appearance in a body should alarm them, we advanced in a long

line, at the head of which was Augustus. We were led to their baggage,

which they had deserted, by the howling of the dogs; and on the summit

of the hill we found, lying behind a stone, an old man who was too

infirm to effect his escape with the rest. He was much terrified when

Augustus advanced, and probably expected immediate death; but that the

fatal blow might not be unrevenged, he seized his spear, and made a

thrust with it at his supposed enemy. Augustus, however, easily

repressed the feeble effort, and soon calmed his fears by presenting him

with some pieces of iron, and assuring him of his friendly intentions.

Dr. Richardson and I then joined them, and, after receiving our

presents, the old man was quite composed, and became communicative. His

dialect differed from that used by Augustus, but they understood each

other tolerably well.

It appeared that his party consisted of eight men and their families,

who were returning from a hunting excursion with dried meat. After being

told who we were, he said, that he had heard of white people from

different parties of his nation which resided on the sea-coast to the

eastward; and to our inquiries respecting the provision and fuel we

might expect to get on our voyage, he informed us that the rein-deer

frequent the coast during summer, the fish are plentiful at the mouths

of the rivers, the seals are abundant, but there are no sea-horses nor

whales, although he remembered one of the latter, which had been killed

by some distant tribe, having been driven on shore on his part of the

coast by a gale of wind. That musk oxen were to be found a little

distance up the rivers, and that we should get drift wood along the

shore. He had no knowledge of the coast to the eastward beyond the next

river, which he called Nappa-arktok-towock, or Tree River. The old man,

contrary to the Indian practice, asked each of our names; and, in reply

to a similar question on our part, said his name was Terregannoeuck, or

the White Fox; and that his tribe denominated themselves

Nagge-ook-tormoeoot, or Deer-Horn Esquimaux. They usually frequent the

Bloody Fall during this and the following moons, for the purpose of

salting salmon, and then retire to a river which flows into the sea, a

short way to the westward, (since denominated Richardson's River,) and

pass the winter in snow-houses.

After this conversation Terregannoeuck proposed going down to his

baggage, and we then perceived, he was too infirm to walk without the

assistance of sticks. Augustus, therefore, offered him his arm, which he

readily accepted, and, on reaching his store, he distributed pieces of

dried meat to each person, which, though highly tainted, were

immediately eaten; this being an universal token among the Indians of

peaceable intention.

We then informed him of our desire to procure as much meat as we

possibly could, and he told us that he had a large quantity concealed in

the neighbourhood, which he would cause to be carried to us when his

people returned.

I now communicated to him that we were accompanied by some Copper

Indians, who were very desirous to make peace with his nation, and that

they had requested me to prevail upon the Esquimaux to receive them in a

friendly manner; to which he replied, he should rejoice to see an end

put to the hostility that existed between the nations, and therefore

would most gladly welcome our companions. Having despatched Adam to

inform Akaitcho of this circumstance, we left Terregannoeuck, in the

hope that his party would rejoin him; but as we had doubts whether the

young men would venture upon coming to our tents, on the old man's bare

representation, we sent Augustus and Junius back in the evening, to

remain with him until they came, that they might fully detail our

intentions.

The countenance of Terregannoeuck was oval, with a sufficiently

prominent nose, and had nothing very different from a European face,

except in the smallness of his{24} eyes, and, perhaps, in the narrowness

of his forehead. His complexion was very fresh and red, and he had a

longer beard than I had seen on any of the aboriginal inhabitants of

America. It was between two and three inches long, and perfectly white.

His face was not tattooed. His dress consisted of a shirt, or jacket

with a hood, wide breeches, reaching only to the knee, and tight leggins

sewed to the shoes, all of deer skins. The soles of the shoes were made

of seal-skin, and stuffed with feathers instead of socks. He was bent

with age, but appeared to be about five feet ten inches high. His hands

and feet were small in proportion to his height. Whenever Terregannoeuck

received a present, he placed each article first on his right shoulder,

then on his left; and when he wished to express still higher

satisfaction, he rubbed it over his head. He held hatchets, and other

iron instruments, in the highest esteem. On seeing his countenance in a

glass for the first time, he exclaimed, "I shall never kill deer more,"

and immediately put the mirror down. The tribe to which he belongs

repair to the sea in spring, and kill seals; as the season advances they

hunt deer and musk oxen at some distance from the coast. Their weapon

is the bow and arrow, and they get sufficiently nigh the deer, either by

crawling, or by leading these animals by ranges of turf towards a spot

where the archer can conceal himself. Their bows are formed of three

pieces of fir, the centre piece alone bent, the other two lying in the

same straight line with the bowstring; the pieces are neatly tied

together with sinew. Their canoes are similar to those we saw in

Hudson's Straits, but smaller. They get fish constantly in the rivers,

and in the sea as soon as the ice breaks up. This tribe do not make use

of nets, but are tolerably successful with the hook and line. Their

cooking utensils are made of pot-stone, and they form very neat dishes

of fir, the sides being made of thin deal, bent into an oval form,

secured at the ends by sewing, and fitted so nicely to the bottom as to

be perfectly water-tight. They have also large spoons made of the horns

of the musk oxen.

Akaitcho and the Indians arrived at our tents in the evening, and we

learned that they had seen the Esquimaux the day before, and

endeavoured, without success, to open a communication with them. They

exhibited no hostile intention, but were afraid to advance. Akaitcho,

keeping out of their sight, followed at a distance, expecting that

ultimately finding themselves enclosed between our party and his, they

would be compelled to come to a parley with one of us. Akaitcho had seen

Terregannoeuck soon after our departure; he was much terrified, and

thrust his spear at him as he had done at Augustus; but was soon

reconciled after the demonstrations of kindness the Indians made, in

cutting off the buttons from their dress to present to him.

_July 17_.--We waited all this forenoon in momentary expectation of the

return of Augustus and Junius, but as they did not appear at two P.M., I

sent Mr. Hood with a party of men, to inquire into the cause of their

detention, and to bring the meat which Terregannoeuck had promised us.

He returned at midnight with the information, that none of the Esquimaux

had yet ventured to come near Terregannoeuck except his aged wife, who

had concealed herself amongst the rocks at our first interview; and she

told him the rest of the party had gone to a river, a short distance to

the westward, where there was another party of Esquimaux fishing.

Augustus and Junius had erected the tent, and done every thing in their

power to make the old man comfortable in their absence. Terregannoeuck

being unable to walk to the place where the meat was concealed, readily

pointed the spot out to Mr. Hood, who went thither; but after

experiencing much difficulty in getting at the column of rock on which

it was deposited, he found it too putrid for our use. The features of

Terregannoeuck's wife were remarkable for roundness and flatness; her

face was much tattooed{25}, and her{26} dress differed little from the

old man's.

In the afternoon a party of nine Esquimaux appeared on the east bank of

the river, about a mile below our encampment, carrying their canoes and

baggage on their backs; but they turned and fled as soon as they

perceived our tents. The appearance of so many different bands of

Esquimaux terrified the Indians so much, that they determined on leaving

us the next day, lest they should be surrounded and their retreat cut

off. I endeavoured, by the offer of any remuneration they would choose,

to prevail upon one or two of the hunters to proceed, but in vain; and I

had much difficulty even in obtaining their promise to wait at the

Copper Mountains for Mr. Wentzel and the four men, whom I intended to

discharge at the sea.

The fears which our interpreters, St. Germain and Adam, entertained

respecting the voyage, were now greatly increased, and both of them came

this evening to request their discharge, urging that their services

could be no longer requisite, as the Indians were going from us. St.

Germain even said that he had understood he was only engaged to

accompany us as long as the Indians did, and persisted in this falsehood

until his agreement to go with us throughout the voyage had been twice

read to him. As these were the only two of the party on whose skill in

hunting we could rely, I was unable to listen for a moment to their

desire of quitting us, and lest they should leave us by stealth, their

motions were strictly watched. This was not an unnecessary precaution,

as I was informed that they had actually laid a plan for eloping; but

the rest of the men knowing that their own safety would have been

compromised had they succeeded, kept a watchful eye over them. We knew

that the dread of the Esquimaux would prevent these men from leaving us

as soon as the Indians were at a distance, and we trusted to their

becoming reconciled to the journey when once the novelty of a sea voyage

had worn off.

_July 18_.--As the Indians persevered in their determination of setting

out this morning, I reminded them, through Mr. Wentzel and St. Germain,

of the necessity of our having the deposit of provision made at Fort

Enterprise, and received a renewed assurance of their attending to that

point. They were also desired to put as much meat as they could _en

cache_ on the banks of the Copper-Mine River on their return. We then

furnished them with what ammunition we could spare, and they took their

departure, promising to wait three days for Mr. Wentzel at the Copper

Mountains. We afterwards learned that their fears did not permit them to

do so, and that Mr. Wentzel did not rejoin them until they were a day's

march to the southward of the mountains.

We embarked at five A.M. and proceeded towards the sea, which is about

nine miles beyond the Bloody Fall. After passing a few rapids, the river

became wider, and more navigable for canoes, flowing between banks of

alluvial sand. We encamped at ten on the western bank at its junction

with the sea. The river is here about a mile wide, but very shallow,

being barred nearly across by sand banks, which run out from the main

land on each side to a low alluvial island that lies in the centre, and

forms two channels; of these the westernmost only is navigable even for

canoes, the other being obstructed by a stony bar. The islands to

seaward are high and numerous, and fill the horizon in many points of

the compass; the only open space, seen from an eminence near the

encampment, being from N.bE. to N.E.bN. Towards the east the land was

like a chain of islands, the ice apparently surrounding them in a

compact body, leaving a channel between its edge and the main of about

three miles. The water in this channel was of a clear green colour, and

decidedly salt. Mr. Hearne could have tasted it only at the mouth of the

river, when he pronounced it merely brackish. A rise and fall of four

inches in the water was observed. The shore is strewed with a

considerable quantity of drift timber, principally of the _populus

balsamifera_, but none of it of great size. We also picked up some

decayed wood far out of the reach of the water. A few stunted willows

were growing near the encampment. Some ducks, gulls, and partridges were

seen this day. As I had to make up despatches for England to be sent by

Mr. Wentzel, the nets were set in the interim, and we were rejoiced to

find that they produced sufficient fish for the party. Those caught

were, the Copper-Mine River salmon, white fish, and two species of

pleuronectes. We felt a considerable change of temperature on reaching

the sea-coast, produced by the winds changing from the southward to the

N.W. Our Canadian voyagers complained much of the cold, but they were

amused with their first view of the sea, and particularly with the

sight of the seals that were swimming about near the entrance of the

river, but these sensations gave place to despondency before the evening

had elapsed. They were terrified at the idea of a voyage through an icy

sea in bark canoes. They speculated on the length of the journey, the

roughness of the waves, the uncertainty of provisions, the exposure to

cold where we could expect no fuel, and the prospect of having to

traverse the barren grounds to get to some establishment. The two

interpreters expressed their apprehensions with the least disguise, and

again urgently applied to be discharged; but only one of the Canadians

made a similar request. Judging that the constant occupation of their

time as soon as we were enabled to commence the voyage would prevent

them from conjuring up so many causes of fear, and that familiarity with

the scenes on the coast, would in a short time enable them to give scope

to their natural cheerfulness, the officers endeavoured to ridicule

their fears, and happily succeeded for the present. The manner in which

our faithful Hepburn viewed the element to which he had been so long

accustomed, contributed not a little to make them ashamed of their

fears.

On the morning of the 19th, Dr. Richardson, accompanied by Augustus,

paid another visit to Terregannoeuck, to see if he could obtain any

additional information respecting the country to the eastward; but he

was disappointed at finding that his affrighted family had not yet

rejoined him, and the old man could add nothing to his former

communication. The Doctor remarked that Terregannoeuck had a great

dislike to mentioning the name of the Copper-Mine River, and evaded the

question with much dexterity as often as it was put to him; but that he

willingly told the name of a river to the eastward, and also of his

tribe. He attempted to persuade Augustus to remain with him, and offered

him one of his daughters for a wife. These Esquimaux strike fire with

two stones, catching the sparks in the down of the catkins of a willow.

The despatches being finished were delivered this evening to Mr.

Wentzel, who parted from us at eight P.M. with Parent, Gagnier, Dumas,

and Forcier, Canadians, whom I had discharged for the purpose of

reducing our expenditure of provision as much as possible. The remainder

of the party, including officers, amounted to twenty persons. I made Mr.

Wentzel acquainted with the probable course of our future proceedings,

and mentioned to him that if we were far distant from this river, when

the season or other circumstances rendered it necessary to put a stop to

our advance, we should, in all probability be unable to return to it,

and should have to travel across the barren grounds towards some

established post: in which case I told him that we should certainly go

first to Fort Enterprise, expecting that he would cause the Indians to

place a supply of dried provision there, as soon as possible after their

arrival in its vicinity. My instructions to him were, that he should

proceed to Point Lake, transport the canoe that was left there to Fort

Enterprise, where he was to embark the instruments and books, and carry

them to Slave Lake, and to forward the box containing the journals, &c.,

with the present despatches, by the next winter packet to England. But

before he quitted Fort Enterprise, he was to be assured of the intention

of the Indians to lay up the provision we required, and if they should

be in want of ammunition for that purpose to procure it if possible from

Fort Providence, or the other forts in Slave Lake, and send it

immediately to them by the hunters who accompanied him thither. I also

requested him to ascertain from Akaitcho and the other leading Indians,

where their different parties would be hunting in the months of

September and October, and to leave this information in a letter at Fort

Enterprise, for our guidance in finding them, as we should require their

assistance. Mr. Wentzel was furnished with a list of the stores that

had been promised to Akaitcho and his party as a remuneration for their

services, as well as with an official request to the North-West Company

that these goods might be paid to them on their next visit to Fort

Providence, which they expected to make in the latter part of November.

I desired him to mention this circumstance to the Indians as an

encouragement to exertion in our behalf, and to promise them an

additional reward for the supply of provision they should collect at

Fort Enterprise.

If Mr. Wentzel met the Hook, or any of his party, he was instructed to

assure them that he was provided with the necessary documents to get

them payment for any meat they should put _en cache_ for our use; and to

acquaint them, that we fully relied on their fulfilling every part of

the agreement they had made with us. Whenever the Indians, whom he was

to join at the Copper-Mountains, killed any animals on their way to Fort

Enterprise, he was requested to put _en cache_ whatever meat could be

spared, placing conspicuous marks to guide us to them; and I

particularly begged he would employ them in hunting in our service,

immediately after his arrival at the house.{27}

When Mr. Wentzel's party had been supplied with ammunition, our

remaining stock consisted of one thousand balls, and rather more than

the requisite proportion of powder. A bag of small shot was missing, and

we afterwards discovered that the Canadians had secreted and distributed

it among themselves, in order that when provision should become scarce,

they might privately procure ducks and geese, and avoid the necessity of

sharing them with the officers.

The situation of our encampment was ascertained to be, latitude 67° 47'

50" N., longitude 115° 36' 49" W., the variation of the compass 46° 25'

52" E., and dip of the needle 88° 5' 07".

It will be perceived, that the position of the mouth of the river, given

by our observations, differs widely from that assigned by Mr. Hearne;

but the accuracy of his description, conjoined with Indian information,

assured us that we were at the very part he visited. I therefore named

the most conspicuous cape we then saw "Cape Hearne," as a just tribute

to the memory of that persevering traveller. I distinguished another

cape by the name of Mackenzie, in honour of Sir Alexander Mackenzie, the

only other European[8] who had before reached the Northern Ocean. I

called the river which falls into the sea, to the westward of the

Copper-Mine, Richardson, as a testimony of sincere regard for my friend

and companion Dr. Richardson; and named the islands which were in view

from our encampment, "Couper's Isles," in honour of a friend of his. The

sun set this night at thirty minutes after eleven, apparent time.

[8] Captain Parry's success was at this time unknown to us.

The travelling distance from Fort Enterprise to the North of the

Copper-Mine River, is about three hundred and thirty-four miles. The

canoes and baggage were dragged over snow and ice for one hundred and

seventeen miles of this distance.