weeks before us, with M. Gerard and Mr Jay, who is appointed Minister
Plenipotentiary for Spain, has happily arrived, and made it
unnecessary for me to enlarge upon the general state of affairs in
America, which were upon the whole in a favorable train. I hope to
have the honor of saluting you at Passy in a few weeks, and am, with
great respect, Sir, your most obedient humble servant,
JOHN ADAMS.
* * * * *
TO THE PRESIDENT OF CONGRESS.
Ferrol, December 11th, 1779.
Sir,
I have the honor to inform Congress, that on the 13th of November I
embarked on board the French frigate, la Sensible, and on the 14th
came on board Mr Francis Dana, the Secretary to my commission, when we
fell down to King's Roads, and on the 15th we sailed for France.
A leak was soon discovered in the ship, which obliged us to ply the
pumps; as it seemed a steady leak, it gave little alarm at first, but
continuing to increase to such a degree as to make two pumps
constantly necessary night and day, obliging the passengers to take
their turns in common with the ship's people, the captain judged it
necessary to make the first port he could find. Accordingly, on the
7th of December, we happily discovered Cape Finisterre, and on the 8th
arrived in the magnificent Spanish port of Ferrol, where we found a
squadron of French ships of the line, the officers of which think we
were very happy in making this port, as the frigate, since she has
been in this harbor, is found to make seven or eight feet of water an
hour.
The advice of all the gentlemen here is to make the best of my way to
Paris by land, as it is the opinion of many, that the frigate will be
condemned, but if not, she certainly will not be ready to sail again
from this port in less than four or five weeks.
This is unfortunate to me, because, by all the information I can
obtain, travelling in this kingdom is attended with many difficulties
and delays, as well as a very great expense, there being no regular
posts as in France, and no possibility of passing over the mountainous
part of this country in carriages.
I find there has been no engagement in the European seas between the
English and the combined fleets of France and Spain, as was reported
in America. There has been an epidemic sickness on board the French
fleet, which caused it to return rather sooner than was intended.
There are twentyfive Spanish ships of the line in Brest harbor with
the French. It is reported that M. du Chaffault is appointed commander
in chief of the French fleet, and that the Count d'Orvilliers has
retired.
Captain Jones has done another brilliant action, by taking a fortyfour
gun ship, after an obstinate engagement, which he carried into the
Texel, but I cannot learn the particulars with much certainty or
exactness.
I have been treated with the utmost attention and politeness since my
arrival in this place, both by the Spanish and French officers,
particularly by the Spanish Lieutenant General of Marine, Don Joseph
St Vincent, who is commander in chief of the marine, by M. de Sade,
the French _Chef d'Escadré_, and by the French consul and vice consul,
who have all obligingly offered me every assistance in their power.
I shall endeavor to inform Congress of every step of my progress, as I
may find opportunity. I have heard nothing as yet, which makes it
probable to me, that I shall have anything to do openly and directly,
in pursuance of my commission very speedily. There is a confused rumor
here of a mediation of Russia and Holland, but I am persuaded without
foundation. It seems to be much more certain, that the English
continue in their old ill humor and insolent language, notwithstanding
their impotence grows every day more apparent.
I have the honor to be, &c.
JOHN ADAMS.
* * * * *
TO THE PRESIDENT OF CONGRESS.
Corunna, December 16th, 1779.
Sir,
By the opportunity of a small vessel accidentally in this harbor,
bound to Newburyport, I have the honor to inform Congress that I have
been detained by violent rains, and several accidents, in Ferrol until
yesterday, when I set out with my family for this place, and arrived
last evening without any accident. I awaited immediately on the
Governor of the province, and on the Governor of the town, and
received many civilities from both, and particularly from his
Excellency the Governor of the province of Galicia, an assurance that
he was not only disposed personally to render me every hospitality and
assistance in his power, but that he had received express orders from
his Court, to treat all Americans who should arrive here like their
best friends. These personages were very inquisitive about American
affairs, particularly the progress of our arms, and the operations of
the Count d'Estaing, and more particularly still about the appointment
of a Minister Plenipotentiary to the Court of Madrid. They requested
his name, character, nativity, age, whether he was a member of
Congress, and whether he had been President, with many other
particulars.
To all these questions I made the best answers in my power, and with
regard to his Excellency, the Minister Plenipotentiary at the Court
of Madrid, I gave them the most exact information, and such a
respectable character as the high offices he has sustained, and his
own personal merit require. It is the prevailing opinion here, that
the Court of Madrid is well disposed to enter into a treaty with the
United States, and that the Minister from Congress will be immediately
received, American independence acknowledged, and a treaty concluded.
The frigate la Sensible is found to be in so bad a condition, that I
am advised by everybody to go to France by land. The season, the
roads, the accommodations for travelling are so unfavorable, that it
is not expected I can get to Paris in less than thirty days. But if I
were to wait for the frigate, it would probably be much longer. I am
determined, therefore, to make the best of my way by land. And it is
possible that this journey may prove of some service to the public,
although it will be tedious and expensive to me, at least, I hope the
public will sustain no loss by it.
There are six battalions of Irish troops in Spain, in three regiments,
several of whose officers have visited me to assure me of their regard
to the United States. I have been this afternoon to the Tower de Fer
to see the Island of Cezarga, which was rendered famous in the course
of the last summer by being appointed the rendezvous of the French and
Spanish fleets. The French fleet arrived at this Island on the 9th of
June last, but were not joined by the Spanish fleet from Ferrol, till
some time in July, nor by the fleet from Cadiz till much later, so
that the combined fleets were not able to sail for the English
Channel, until the 30th of July. To prevent a similar inconvenience
another campaign, there are about twentyfive Spanish ships of the line
now in Brest, which are to winter there, and to be ready to sail with
the French fleets the approaching summer, at the first opening of the
season.
God grant them success and triumph, although no man wishes for peace
more sincerely than I, or would take more pleasure, or think himself
more highly honored in being instrumental in bringing it about, yet, I
confess, I see no prospect or hope of it, at least before the end of
another summer. America will be amused with rumors of peace, and
Europe too, but the English are not yet in a temper for it.
The Court of Russia has lately changed its Ambassador at the Court of
London, and sometime in the month of October, M. Simolin, the new
Minister Plenipotentiary from the Court of Petersburg to the Court of
London, passed through France in his way to England, and resided three
weeks in Paris. From this circumstance, a report has been spread in
Europe, that the Court of Russia is about to undertake the office of
mediator between the belligerent powers. But from conversation with
several persons of distinction since my arrival in Spain, particularly
with the Count de Sade, the Chef d'Escadré, commanding the French men
of war now in Ferrol, I am persuaded, that if Russia has any thoughts
of a mediation, the independence of the United States will be insisted
upon by her as a preliminary, and Great Britain will feel much more
reluctance to agree to this, than to the cession of Gibraltar, which
it is said Spain absolutely insists upon.
I have the honor to be, &c.
JOHN ADAMS.
* * * * *
TO THE GOVERNOR OF CORUNNA.
Corunna, December 18th, 1779.
Mr Adams presents his compliments to the Governor of Corunna, and
informs him, according to his desire expressed last evening, that the
names of the persons for whom he requests a passport from his
Excellency, the Governor of this Province, are as follows.
John Adams, a Minister Plenipotentiary from the United States of
America.
Francis Dana, Secretary to Mr Adams's commission, a member of
Congress, and a member of the Council of Massachusetts Bay.
John Thaxter, private Secretary to Mr Adams.
John Quincy Adams, a son of Mr Adams, about twelve years of age.
Charles Adams, another son of Mr Adams, nearly ten years of age.
Jeremiah Allen of Boston, in Massachusetts, a private gentleman
accidentally in company; he is a merchant travelling with the view of
establishing a private commerce in Spain, as well as France.
Samuel Cooper Johonnot, ten or eleven years of age, a grandson of a
particular friend of Mr Adams in Boston, going to Paris for an
education in the University there.
Joseph Stevens, a servant of Mr Adams.
John William Christian Frieke, a servant of Mr Dana.
Andrew Desmia, a servant of Mr Allen.
Mr Adams requests a passport for all these persons to go to Madrid,
and from thence to Bilboa, and from thence to Bayonne, in their way to
Paris; with liberty at the same time to go directly to Bayonne by the
nearest road, without going to Madrid, or to Bilboa; as it is
uncertain whether Mr Adams will have the time to gratify his
inclination with the sight of those cities.
* * * * *
M. DE SARTINE TO JOHN ADAMS.
Translation.
Versailles, December 31st, 1779.
Sir,
I have received the letter, which you did me the honor to write to me
on the 6th of October last.
I was well persuaded, that M. de Chavagne[55] would endeavor to
procure for you everything in his power to render your passage
agreeable. This was conformable to the instructions I had given him
respecting the intentions of the King.
I learn with pleasure, that, being again charged with an important
mission by Congress, you will be able to profit by the frigate
Sensible a second time in your voyage to France.
I have the honor to be, &c.
DE SARTINE.
FOOTNOTE:
[55] These instructions, and those for a treaty of commerce which
follow were agreed to unanimously in Congress on the 14th of August,
nearly six weeks before the Minister was chosen. They were drawn up by
Gouverneur Morris.
* * * * *
TO THE PRESIDENT OF CONGRESS.
Bilboa, January 16th, 1780.
Sir,
I have the honor to inform Congress, that last night, and not before,
I arrived at this place.
At Ferrol and Corunna I was advised by all the friends of America, to
undertake a journey by land. The consul of France and M. Lagoanere, a
gentleman who has acted for some time as the American agent at
Corunna, obligingly offered me all the assistance in their power, and
accordingly used their utmost diligence to procure me the necessary
mules and carriages, for the transportation of the small number of
persons in company with me, and the small quantity of baggage we found
it indispensably necessary to take with us, having left more than two
thirds of what we had with us to take the chance of a passage by sea
to France. From the 8th of December, when we arrived at Ferrol, to the
26th of the same month, when we set off from Corunna, we were detained
by the violent rains, and the impossibility of getting accommodations
for travelling. All our beds and provisions we were obliged to carry
with us. We travelled through the ancient kingdoms of Galicia, Leon,
Old Castile, and Biscay, and although we made the best of our way
without loss of time, we found it impossible to go more than eight
leagues a day, and sometimes not more than four. The roads and inns
are inconvenient to a degree that I should blush to describe, and the
pain we suffered in a cold season of the year for want of fire, in a
country where there are no chimnies, gave us all such violent colds,
that I was under great apprehensions of our being seized with fevers.
As we were so near Madrid, within about forty leagues, I balanced some
time in my own mind, whether to go to that fine city, but considering
that this would lengthen our journey near a hundred leagues, the
severe season of the year, and above all the political situation that
I might be in, my country not being yet acknowledged as a sovereign
State by any formal act of that Court, it being known, that another
gentleman had a commission for that Court, and he being expected soon
to arrive, I thought it upon the whole the least hazardous to the
public interest to avoid that route.
It may be of some use to my countrymen to transmit a few observations
upon the country I have passed through, because it appears to me that
a commerce extremely advantageous to both countries may be opened
between us and Spain, as soon as our independence shall be
acknowledged by that power, at least as soon as we shall obtain the
great object of all our wishes, peace.
The province of Galicia is one of the largest in Spain, and said to be
one of the best peopled. Corunna is in effect the principal city,
although St Jago, in respect to its patron Saint, or more probably to
the Archbishop who resides there, is in name the capital. This
province, one of those whereof the ancient Crown of Castile was
formed, is washed by the ocean for more than seventy leagues from
Ribadeo, on the frontiers of Asturias, to the mouth of the river
Minks, which separates it from Portugal. This coast, which is divided
by Cape Finisterre, is provided on both sides of the Cape with ports
equally safe and convenient, which nature seems to have prepared
around this Cape, an object oftentimes so necessary to be made by
navigators, both at their departure from Europe, and at their return,
as so many asylums both from the apprehensions and the consequences of
storms. The most known of these ports are Ribadeo, Ferrol, Corunna,
and Camarinas, to the eastward of Cape Finisterre; Corubios, Muros,
Pontevidia, and Vigo to the westward; all proper to receive vessels of
the first rate, especially Ferrol and Vigo; the first, the most
considerable department of the marine of Spain, is embellished with
everything that art and the treasures, profusely spent upon it for
thirty years past, could add to its happy situation. Vigo, represented
to be one of the most beautiful ports in the world, is another
department of the marine, more extensive and proper, for such an
establishment than Ferrol itself. Besides these ports, there are a
multitude of harbors and bays round Cape Finisterre, which afford a
safe and convenient shelter to merchant vessels. With all these
advantages for foreign commerce, this province has very little but
what is passive. It receives from abroad some objects of daily
consumption, some of luxury, some of convenience, and some even of the
first necessity. At present it offers little for exportation to
foreign countries. The Sardiné of its coast, the famous fish which it
furnishes to all Spain, the cattle which it fattens for the provision
of Madrid, and a few coarse linens which are its only manufacture, and
are well esteemed, are the objects of its active commerce, and form
its balance with the other provinces. The wine and the grain, the
chief productions of its lands, seldom suffice for its consumption,
and never go beyond it.
The liberty of commerce with the Windward Islands, granted by the
Court within a few years, and the particular establishment of ----
opened the ports of that part of the new world to this province; and
although without manufactures herself, or any of those productions
proper for America, she renders to foreign hands the product of those
which she receives from them and carries thither. In this circulation
of so many treasures, she enriches herself with parts that she
detaches from the whole.
The civil government of this province is formed by a superior tribunal
called the _Audience_, to which an appeal lies from all the subaltern
jurisdictions, public and private. This Court hears and determines,
as sovereign and without appeal, all civil affairs of a less value
than a thousand ducats, or three thousand livres. Appeals in those
which exceed that value are carried to the Chancery of Valladolid, or
to the Council of Castile. Although justice is gratis on the part of
the judges, who are paid by the government, it is said to be not less
costly, tedious, and vexatious. It may not be useless to observe that
the Criminal Chambers, whose decrees extend to the punishment of
death, and are executed without any application to the King or any
other authority, is composed only of three judges, and these three are
the youngest of the whole tribunal, and this order is generally
followed in Spain in the composition of the criminal tribunals,
although no one pretends to conjecture the motive of so singular a
reverse of the rational order of things. The administration of the
royal police belongs also to the Audience, and forms the third chamber
into which this tribunal is divided.
All the military authority, and the government of the troops in this
department, are in the hands of the Captain General of the province.
There is not any one under him who has even the title of commandant.
But in case of his death or absence, he is succeeded by the general
officer, the most ancient in the province. To this title of Captain
General is added, commonly, that of President of the Audience, a
prerogative which, by uniting in his hands the civil authority to all
that of his place, gives a power the most absolute and unlimited.
The inspection general, and all the economy of the affairs of the King
in the province, belong to the Intendant. The different branches of
the public revenue are all administered by officers appointed by the
King, as in the rest of the kingdom, and there are no Farmers-General
as in France. Their product is about twentysix millions of reals, or
six millions five hundred thousand livres, the expense of collection
being deducted. The expenses of the administration, including the
maintenance of three regiments of infantry scattered about in
different places, do not exceed two millions five hundred thousand
livres. The surplus goes into the dry docks, arsenals, and fund of
fortifications, to the support of which this sum is far from being
sufficient. Such is in general the government, military, political,
and civil of this province, and nearly pf all the others, except
Biscay, Guipuscoa, and Alaba.
There is not in this province any particular jurisdiction of commerce,
but there is a tribunal, under the name of the Judge Considerator of
Commerce, which takes cognizance of all their causes, civil and
criminal, except the case of contraband. At this day, the Judge
Considerator of Strangers is the governor of the province himself, and
the appeals from his judgment are carried directly to the Council of
War, which is said to be a precious privilege, by the form and brevity
of procedure compared with the expensive and insupportable delays of
the ordinary jurisdiction.
I cannot but think that if some measures could be taken to convince
the Court, that it is their interest to take off the vast duties with
which commerce is overloaded in this port, fifteen per cent being to
be paid upon all commodities exported and upon all imported, and if
the rigid prohibitions of tobacco could be relaxed or repealed,
several of the productions of America would find a good market here,
and a commerce be opened that would put a new face upon this province,
and be profitable to America too. The conveniency of such a number of
excellent ports would be a vast advantage, which Bilboa cannot have,
as her harbor is neither safe nor convenient, besides its being so
much further down the stormy, turbulent Gulf of Biscay; yet Biscay,
which is commonly used to comprehend Biscay proper, the principal city
of which is Bilboa, although Orduna is the capital; Guipuscoa, the
capital of which is St Sebastian, and Alaba, the capital of which is
Vittoria, three free provinces, whose laws the Kings of Spain have
hitherto been sworn to observe inviolate, have attracted almost the
whole of the American trade, because the King has no custom house or
officers here, and there are no duties to be paid.
It may seem surprising to hear of free provinces in Spain, but such is
the fact, that the high and independent spirit of the people, so
essentially different from the other provinces, that a traveller
perceives it even in their countenances, their dress, their air, and
their ordinary manner of speech, has induced the Spanish nation and
her kings to respect the ancient liberties of these people so far,
that each monarch at his accession to the throne takes an oath to
observe the laws of Biscay. The government here is therefore
diametrically opposite to that of Galicia, and the other provinces.
The King of Spain has never assumed any higher title than Lord of
Biscay. He has no troops of any sort in the lordship, nor is there any
standing array, instead of which every man is obliged to serve in the
militia. The King has no custom house officers, nor other revenue
officers, nor any other officers whatsoever in the lordship except a
corregidor, and lately a commissary of marine. This last is considered
as an encroachment and a grievance, and the authority of the
corregidor is very small, as there lies an appeal from his judgment
to another tribunal, that of the two deputy generals, who are
biennially elected by the people. Few of the grandees of Spain have
any considerable estates here. The Duke of Medina Coeli, and the Duke
of Berwick, have some lands here of no great value. The lands,
generally, belong to the inhabitants and possessors, who hold them of
no lord but the King of Spain, who is Lord of Biscay.
There is a Board of Trade here, which is annually instituted by the
merchants of the place, partly by lot and partly by election, which
decides all controversies arising in trade, and all the affairs of
strangers. They have never admitted any foreign consul to reside here,
although it has been solicited by Holland, England, and France.
It is not at all surprising, that a constitution in its nature so
favorable to commerce, should have succeeded.
In travelling through the provinces of Leon and Castile, and observing
the numerous flocks of sheep, with the most beautiful fleeces of wool
in the world, I could not but wish that some communication might be
opened, by which the United States of America might be furnished with
this necessary article from this country. There are few of our
articles of exportation but might be sent to the Spanish market to
advantage, rice, pitch, tar, turpentine, tobacco, wheat, flour, ship
timber, masts, yards, bowsprits, and salt fish might be supplied to
Spain, and at an advantage, and in return, she might furnish us wine,
oil, fruits, some silks, some linens, perhaps, and with any quantity
of wool, which is now exported to foreign countries for manufacture,
and might as well be sent to us, but above all with silver and gold.