Steamers on the Ganges--Native Pilots--Course of the River--Mr. Sims
proposes Shields to the Banks--Shoals--Tributary Streams--Rapids--The
Jumna--Mirzapore--Benares--Trimbuckjee Danglia--Chunar--Sultanpore.
THERE is a regular steam communication between Calcutta and Allahabad;
but as the steamers proceed no further than that city, it may not
be out of place to give the reader a few words on Steam Navigation,
at least so far as the Ganges is concerned. Until steamers were
introduced, the only way of proceeding by water from Calcutta to
Allahabad, and the intermediate stations, was by boats, the largest
of which are called budgerows and pinnaces. About twenty years ago,
the East India Company ordered four steamers to be built for the
navigation of the Ganges, much against the advice of many, who urged
the impossibility of using steam in consequence of the shifting
sands. They were accordingly built in England, and shipped in pieces
to Calcutta, where they were put together by able engineers. For many
years these government boats were the only steamers seen on the Ganges;
but latterly two Companies have been started, the one called "the India
General Steam Navigation Company," established in 1844, and the other,
"the Ganges Company." The control of the government steamers is under
the judicious management of Captain J.H. Johnston, R.N. The number of
boats on the Ganges belonging to government alone, is as follows:--ten
steamers, three accommodation, three cargo, and two troop-boats. On an
average, one steamer leaves Calcutta every ten or fourteen days, having
an accommodation-boat, or sometimes one or two cargo or troop-boats,
in tow. This is a striking and novel sight. Every one is aware that a
ship at sea will take another in tow, which is effected by the ship to
be towed sending out hawsers; but in very bad weather they disengage
themselves by casting off the towing-hawsers. Besides these hawsers
for joining one with the other, there is a plank of wood, twenty-five
feet in length, a foot in width, and six inches in thickness, placed
between two short masts, one at the bow of the accommodation, cargo or
troop-boat, the other at the stern of the steamer, to each of which it
is bound by chains. This plank serves as a mutual convenience to the
crews of the two vessels, without its being requisite to lower a boat;
besides, if it were not for this more solid material, accidents would
frequently happen by the vessel in tow running foul of her leader;
whereas, as it is, should the steamer touch ground unexpectedly, the
other sheers quietly alongside.
The steamers are of iron, and (I am now speaking only of those
belonging to government) are fitted up with two engines of thirty horse
power each, and carry sail. The fires are never wholly extinguished,
for although the steamers anchor at sunset, yet they are again under
steam at the first dawn of day. The fares and prices of the two
Companies correspond exactly with those of the government; the charges
for the whole trip from Calcutta to Allahabad, being for a first-class
cabin, 300 rupees, for a second, 250, and for a third, 200. The charges
for the downward passage are only two-thirds those of the upward.
The hours for meals are generally, breakfast at nine, luncheon twelve,
dinner four, and tea seven. Anything required between meals, is charged
extra. For supplying these, each passenger pays the Commander three
rupees per diem. Wines, spirits, etc., are extra, and charged for
according to the consumption.
The boats of the two private Companies are differently constructed from
those of the Government; for, like the steamers on the American rivers,
the steam and accommodation centre in one boat, but some of them, have
one or two cargo-boats in tow. The Ganges boats, it is said, draw too
much water. The Company's boats draw three feet, and their steamers
three-and-a-quarter feet each. Hindoo servants, who are forbidden by
caste to cook on board, are landed every evening, if practicable, as
soon as the steamer casts anchor. From the Mahomedan servants, one
of whom is allowed to each passenger, without cost for the trip, the
Commander receives a quarter of a rupee a-day, which each has to pay
for his food.
A native pilot is taken on board every twenty or twenty-five miles;
he is responsible in some measure, that the vessel does not touch
the bottom, or run upon a sand-bank. The poor men, who receive only a
scanty pittance for this trouble, are extremely careful; and it is very
rare indeed, for any serious accident or interruption to occur. The
steamers have a commander, a mate, and about twenty Lascars, or native
sailors, and the other boats about the same number. The cabins are
generally light and airy, though many of them abound with mosquitoes,
cockroaches and ants, and not unfrequently with rats. The dining-room
is spacious, being the whole width of the vessel, and would be very
comfortable if a punkah could be introduced. The cabins contain no
furniture save a bedstead, so that the traveller is required to furnish
it with a mattress, table, chair, chillumchee or wash-stand, and
mosquito curtains.
The river Ganges is called by the natives "Gunga Jee;" "Gung" signifies
_river_, and "Gunga" _the_ river; "Jee" denotes _sir_, _lord_,
_master_, _mistress_, and is used as a mark of religious respect, the
Ganges being pre-eminently the king of rivers--the sacred river. The
Hindoos swear by the waters of the Ganges, as we do on the Testament,
or the Mahomedans on the Koran. The Ganges has a very uncertain
channel, in consequence of its tortuous course; sometimes dashing
across from the right to the left bank, and forming a new bed. To
obviate this, various clever plans have been proposed; but I shall now
merely allude to that of Mr. Sims, Civil Engineer to the East India
Company, who was sent out some time back, to select and survey the
district which he should consider suitable for a railroad. The scheme
fell into abeyance, but is once more revived. A Board was appointed
in England, comprising a committee, secretary, engineer, etc.; two
of the official staff arrived in Calcutta in February, 1848, for the
purpose of collecting the unpaid capital, and the money is fast coming
in. Meantime, the Government has desired Mr. Sims to propose a plan
for controlling the freaks and sudden changes of this river, which is
at the same time one of the most beneficial in the world. The task is
a difficult one, and the expense enormous; however, the first sod has
been since turned up, and this is some earnest of its completion.
I collect from the Report, that Mr. Sims proposes to form extensive
shields at certain points of the banks. Just as in fencing, we guard
right and left where the thrust is expected, so the shields are to be
erected on the right and left, according as the river rushes in. Brunel
used shields in making the Thames tunnel, but they were above, while
Mr. Sims's shields are to be perpendicular to the river, and parallel
to the banks. Wherever a shoal may be forming, Mr. Sims proposes to
make a diversion by means of a channel, which is to be kept open by
bamboos and other material, so as to prevent the sand from filling
up the excavations. The expense of the operation is not clearly
ascertained; but the cost of each shield is £60,000! Until we know how
many of these shields are required, we can have no means of estimating
the total outlay.
Major Rowland Hill, late 70th Regt. Bengal Native Infantry, and
commanding 4th Irregular Cavalry, when at Sultanpore, Benares, tried
the following plan, in 1846. Placing several large boats with their
prows facing up the river, he cut through the sand-bank, upon which the
force of the current drove away the sand to the right and left of the
boats.
There are so many points along the Ganges which demand the attention
of the engineer, that nothing short of a careful examination of every
hundred yards, on both banks, can solve the problem. Thus, having
formed a shield in one locality, who can say where the next may be
required? or, again, whether the river driving with full force to a new
point, the evil may not break out at another? The natives never thought
of such schemes in days of yore. Being a sacred river, the Ganges could
do no wrong: if a man lost his boat, it was his destiny (_nuseeb_): the
will of God in anger for his sins! Æsop's fables have been translated
by a Brahmin; and an Englishman having read, to a Hindoo, the fable of
the waggoner's complaint to Jupiter, the man shook his head and laughed.
It would seem possible, that by carefully examining this river during
the dry season, from October to April, the channels might be found
out. In the Bhauguretty, and smaller Indian rivers, dredging machines
are used. The practicability of the plan could be ascertained, and
that, too, at no great cost, by buoying off the river, and placing it
in sections; this could be done by a native establishment, with some
Europeans as supervisors.
The steam-boats often run aground, although they have native pilots,
and are frequently not got off for several days. Sometimes, when the
river is low, steamers can only reach Sirsah, twenty-six miles below
Allahabad.
I must remind the reader, that the first rise of the river is caused
by the melting of the snows in the Himalaya mountains during the warm
weather, before the rainy season sets in, and that the rains afterwards
keep it up to the high-water mark, until the month of October. The
fall of rain in Assam, south-east of Calcutta, has been 240 inches in
a year. At Bombay, up to the middle of August, 1849, it was eighty-six
or eighty-seven inches; which is about the same quantity that falls in
Calcutta during the whole of the rainy season.
I must not omit to mention, that some years since, an attempt was
made to get a steamer up to Ghurrumkteesur Ghât, on the Ganges, about
thirty miles from Meerut. But it proved a failure, for the Ganges
from Allahabad to Cawnpore is shoaly, and above the latter place
more so than below it, in addition to which hinderance, there was
not a sufficient depth of water. By dint of great exertions, Captain
Templeton did get the steamer up to Cawnpore; but he first took the
precaution to unlade it. The steamers carry freight, as well as the
cargo-boats; they are also more capable of enduring bad weather, yet
during the rains of 1849, a gale blew so violently that the steamer
turned aside, nearly to her opposite gunwale. In the month of August,
the river is so rapid opposite Dinapore, that the steamers lose ground,
or fall below their starting-point, even in crossing from one side of
the river to the other. They go down the river at the rate of twelve or
fourteen miles an hour.
There are many rivers that fall into the Ganges below Allahabad. The
Ganges, I may remark, rises at Gangoutrie, in the Himalayas, that
enormous chain of snow-capped mountains, which extends from Cabool
along the north of Hindoostan to China. It flows for more than 1,200
miles through rich fields to the Bay of Bengal, which it enters by a
delta of about sixteen miles in extent. In its course, it receives
eleven tributary streams, none of which is smaller than the Thames.
Below Allahabad, there are on the left bank, the Goomtee, Birnah,
Koosee, Dewah, or Gograh, and the Great and Little Gundruk. On the
right, at and below Allahabad, the rivers Jumna and Sone, all of
which, except the latter, which rises near to the Nerbudda in the
Deccan, flow from the Himalaya mountains. As there is no large stream
which falls into the Ganges above Allahabad, it will easily be
understood, that its greatest width and depth must be below that place.
The next attempt was to steam up the Jumna, but meeting with a shoal at
Kulna, the steamer could proceed no further. The rocks which formerly
existed in this river, were blasted by the late Lieutenant-Colonel
Joseph Taylor, of the Engineers.
The question naturally arises, why the same remedy could not be applied
as at Gottenburg, in Sweden, where rapids have been passed by making
a canal outside; and why, in India, canals are never resorted to for
out-flanking an impediment in a river? This, however, is an enquiry to
which no satisfactory reply has ever yet been given.
The Nerbudda[97] offers similar difficulties, having rocks and rapids
interspersed at intervals, in quick succession. It has a course of 750
miles, rising at Omercote, and emptying itself below Baroda into the
sea. Attempts have been made to navigate the Nerbudda, from the centre
downwards, where there are no rocks.
Having referred to Gottenburg, I will quote a passage from the Travels
of the late Bishop James, of Calcutta[98]:--
"For the purpose of avoiding the falls or cataracts that for many
ages obstructed the communications of the country, a navigable canal
had been excavated in the solid rock of granite, which being near two
English miles in length, and carried to a depth, in one part, of 150
feet, was a scheme that few minds would have originated, and still
fewer even have ventured to put into execution. The great undertaking
was completed, after six years' labour, in the year 1830; and it
already pays, as we were informed, an interest of 42,000 rix-dollars
per annum, upon a capital of 358,988 rix-dollars, originally expended:
a return amounting to nearly 12 per cent., and sufficient to afford the
most unequivocal testimony both of its success and of its great public
utility."
This stupendous work was undertaken by a private Company unaided by
the Government. It was necessary to float the timber down the river
in order to save the great expense of land carriage. It is true that
in the American rivers they contrive to stop the boats short of the
rapids, unlade, and then re-ship the goods; but the Swedish plan is
preferable. As a commercial speculation, where, the interest of money
as in Sweden is two and two-and-a-half per cent., it was a great
result. The river Jumna abounds in shoals at certain places, but small
canals overcome such impediments; for instance, near Kulna. As the
railroad will, probably, not reach that portion of India for many
years to come, the Jumna would transport goods thither. The course is
estimated at 780 miles. It is fordable at times at Agra, and I believe
also at Delhi. It is time, however, that I should resume my narrative.
At noon on the 20th of May, 1846, my servants with the baggage left
Berrill's Hotel in a boat for the steamer "Megna," at Sirsah, the water
being too low to permit the steamer to proceed higher, than within
twenty-six miles of Allahabad, which, as I have before observed, is
frequently the case. I left the hotel about 3 P.M., in company with
the Commander of the "Soorma," accommodation boat, and reached that
vessel in tow of the "Megna," about 9 P.M., at Sirsah. Before leaving
the hotel I paid the Commander of the "Soorma" 217 rupees, 10 annas,
_i.e._ 166 rupees, 10 annas, for a cabin to Calcutta; and 51 rupees for
seventeen days' messing; being 3 rupees per diem, exclusive of wines,
beer, and other extras: or £21 15_s._
On the 23rd, at about 3 P.M., we anchored off Mirzapore, nearly ninety
miles from Allahabad. It is one of the largest inland trading towns
in Hindoostan, and the great mart for cotton. It is noted for its
manufacture of carpets, somewhat resembling those of Turkey, and used
all over India. I bought a very handsome bedside carpet, entirely
made of wool, and as soft as velvet, for only six shillings. Silk is
imported into Mirzapore from Bengal, and despatched to the west of
India for sale, particularly among the Maharattas, and the central
parts of Hindoostan. There are also fabrics of cotton manufacture,
plantations of indigo, etc.
The town has many handsome European houses and native dwellings, with
clusters of Hindoo temples, crowding the right bank of the Ganges, on
which it stands. The appearance from the river is very imposing. Close
to the main ghât stand two temples, the top of one of which is most
elaborately and beautifully carved. On the other side of the river,
which is here not very broad, stands the elegant residence of the Rajah
of Benares.
As the steamers stop here to take in coal, as well as to land and
receive passengers and goods, I took a stroll on shore. A traveller
intending to visit Bombay and the west of India, should take the
steamer as far as Mirzapore; this is better than going to Allahabad,
which lies too far north; besides which, the navigation is not so
pleasant, in consequence, as I have before observed of the shoaly state
of the river between Mirzapore and Allahabad.
Mirzapore may be termed central between Allahabad and Benares, the
distance from the former, by land, being forty-four miles, and from
the latter, thirty-three miles, but situated on the left bank of
the Ganges. There are six civilians at this station, and, at the
time of which I am writing, a wing of the Shekawattee Battalion--an
irregular Infantry corps--was quartered here and at Juanpore, on the
opposite side of the river. The Church Missionary Society have a
church and chapel here. A beautiful and magnificent Chowk, or Square,
was in course of construction; and on my return, in September, 1849,
when proceeding up the river, in the India General Steam Navigation
Company's steamer, "General Macleod," I had the pleasure of seeing
it completely finished. On this latter occasion, I again visited
this bustling and thriving place, in company with my friend and
fellow-countyman, Lord Frederick Montagu, at this time an officer
in the 24th Foot. And here I may be permitted to render a tribute
of thanks to Mr. Lord, a resident of Mirzapore, for the sumptuous
hospitality with which he received his lordship and myself, both of us
having been entire strangers to him previously.
The country around is pretty, and the officers' bungalows are most
pleasantly situated on the bank of the river, in the midst of large
compounds, or gardens, which are not exuberant with vegetation. The
population of Mirzapore is between 70,000 and 80,000, the people
are particularly industrious and active, and have great commercial
enterprise. On leaving Mirzapore, on Sunday, the 24th, we mustered
six in number, at the cuddy table, namely, Mrs. Lushington, Mr. T.A.
Lushington, civil service, since deceased, Mrs. Swayne, widow of Major
Swayne, killed during the rebellion at Cabool, in 1842, Captain G.R.
Siddons, 1st Bengal Light Cavalry, Mr. W.R. Baillie, of the Bengal
Secretariat, and myself.
On the 24th of May, at eight o'clock in the evening, we anchored off
Benares, forty-nine miles from Mirzapore, having passed Chunar at about
two o'clock. Chunar was acquired by the East India Company in 1775,
along with the Zumindary of Benares. The fort is erected on a freestone
rock several hundred feet in height, and is built of red Chunar-stone
(limestone), and fortified after the Indian manner, with walls and
towers. It is of considerable strength, and lies on the right bank of
the Ganges, which runs close under the very walls and bastions of the
fort, thus rendering it secure against the attacks of any native army.
On the left, or opposite bank, the water is not very deep. The troops
in the garrison are two Companies of European Artillery Invalids, and
two of European Infantry Invalids, one European Veteran Company, and a
detachment of the Shekawattee Battalion. It also contains a military
magazine, which supplies Benares and the other adjacent stations with
ammunition, arms, stores, etc. It was formerly used as a kind of
state prison, and amongst the names of the compulsory inmates were
Trimbuckjee Danglia, a fearful murderer, and the treacherous minister
of the ex-Peishwah; and also Hadjee Khan Kakur, who was instrumental in
Dost Mahomed's escape, soon after the fall of Ghuznee and Cabool.
There is much treachery in the character of some of the high Hindoos;
but the most infamous scheme to destroy an adversary was executed by
Sevajee, the founder of the Maharatta Empire. He invited a certain
Nawab, under the pretext that he had some urgent and friendly business
with him, and requested him to give him a meeting unaccompanied by his
suite, or any other person, stipulating that he himself would also be
unattended. The Nawab agreed to the proposition. He arrived at the
place of rendezvous, at the time appointed. He came unattended, and
saw no person but Sevajee, who immediately went up and embraced him
with the ardour of a friend; but he had iron claws about his arms. He
clasped the Nawab and held him so tight that he could not resist, and
then drawing his dagger, stabbed him to the heart. But Sevajee himself
did not long go unpunished, for soon after he was seized by the emperor
of Delhi and thrown into prison. Cunning and crafty, he determined on a
plan of escape. He pretended to become very charitable, and daily gave
away large baskets filled with food and sweetmeats. At length he bribed
a man to personate him, and having made him lie down in his bed, he
crept into one of the baskets, which was accordingly lowered from the
window; thus he effected his escape from Delhi, and reached the Deccan
or South of India in safety.
The cantonments for invalids at Chunar, are situated outside the fort.
The houses are all built of stone, and are generally two stories high;
the residence belonging to the stone-cutter, which stands near the
crowded cemetry, is a handsome structure. This last resting-place for
the dead, is situated on the slope of the hill, which is crowned by
the fort; the white monuments contrasting forcibly with the red stone
fortress. The Major-General commanding the Division used to reside
in the fort, up to the early part of this century, and in 1807, the
chaplain, the Rev. Daniel Corrie, afterwards Archdeacon of Calcutta,
and lately Bishop of Madras, lived here. There is now a resident
chaplain, and some missionaries.
The fortress, as I observed above, fell into the power of the English,
in 1775. They had been repulsed in an attempt to assault it by night,
but it surrendered shortly after, without a siege. It was formerly
a place of great importance, but Allahabad being more north, has
superseded it as a military depôt.
In the hills near Chunar, which run parallel to the right bank of the
Ganges, and are clothed with heath and brushwood, are to be found
some of the largest snakes in India; many of them, it is said, being
eighteen feet in length and half the thickness of a man's thigh, but
they are not venomous like the cobra de capella, and the short, thin,
green snake. The difference between the bite of the snake and the sting
of a scorpion, is contained in the following Oriental distich:--
"He that's bitten by a serpent sleeps:
But he that's bitten by a scorpion weeps."
Sultanpore, about four miles from Chunar, is prettily situated; a
regiment of Native Cavalry was formerly stationed here.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 97: "Narmada," Sanscrit, "rendering soft," Colebrooke, Wilks,
etc.]
[Footnote 98: See Appendix XXI.]