Benares--Bathing in the Ganges--Water-carrying by
Women--Extent and Population of Benares--Attempted
Tax--Mosque of Aurungzebe--Observatory of Rajah Jey
Singh--Bazaars--Jewellery--Cultivation of Sugar--Secrole--Murder of
Mr. Cherry--State Prisoners--The Maharannee of Lahore.
WE anchored off the ancient and sacred city of Benares, at eight
o'clock in the evening. The Sanscrit name of the district of Benares
is Varanase, from "Vara" and "Nashi" ("two streams"); it is in the
Province of Allahabad, and was ceded to the East India Company by
Asophud-Dowlah, the Nawab of Oude, in 1775. Its national appellation
was "Kasi," or "the Splendid." It is built upon the left bank of the
Ganges, along which it stretches in a semi-circle for six or seven
miles. On the outer side of the curve, which is the most elevated,
stands the holy city of Benares. Generally speaking, the banks of every
river are higher on the side where its course is convex, and they are
always high alternately, if the river has a winding course, high on the
convex side, and low on the concave of the curve which it forms.
It is customary with the natives to build on rising spots of ground,
because such localities are more healthy, and can be easily drained.
Benares is seen to great advantage from Ramnuggur, on the opposite bank
of the Ganges. Its appearance is strikingly grand and picturesque; the
ground is covered with buildings even to the water's edge, and some of
the ghâts, which are constructed of large blocks of red chunar-stone,
have a flight of thirty or forty steps leading down to the river. Here
a most animated scene generally presents itself. Men and women, boys
and girls, may be seen bathing early in the morning, and evening, and,
during the cold season, also in the middle of the day; for the cold
does not deter even the gentler sex from adventuring into the river.
Hither, too, resort the girls and young women of Benares, to fetch
water from the sacred stream. Their figures are elegant and their
stature erect. They all carry two or three water-pots on their heads,
each successive pot being smaller than the one beneath it. Having
dipped them into the stream, and filled them with water, they replace
them upon their heads, and return homewards. This habit of carrying
their gharahs, or jars, filled with water, from their early youth, may
account, in a great measure, for their graceful carriage. They balance
their pitchers so equally as not even to require any assistance from
the hand. The sight of these women, with their water-pots, powerfully
recalls to mind passages in Holy Writ;[99] and many of them refer
to periods of so ancient a date, that we cannot avoid coming to the
conclusion that the Hindoos are a people of great antiquity.
As I ascended into the city, I found the streets so exceedingly
narrow that it was difficult to penetrate them, even on horseback.
The houses are crowded close to each other, with turrets rising from
their terraced roofs. They are built of stone, and some of them are
six stories high. The windows are always extremely small, to keep
the apartments cool, as the natives suppose, as well as to prevent
their neighbours from looking in, for the opposite sides of the street
approach very closely to each other, and, in some places, are united by
galleries. The natives in eastern countries generally sleep on their
flat roofs, in the verandah, or even in front of their dwellings. Here,
again, the Bible illustrates the practice of sleeping on the roofs.
According to an old Brahminical legend, Benares was originally built of
fine gold; but, owing to the depravity of its inhabitants, the gold was
converted into stone; and as they degenerated more and more, the houses
were transformed into brick and mud.
The number of stone and brick houses, from one to six stories high, was
estimated in the year 1815 to be upwards of 12,000, and the mud houses
above 16,000. I find by Shakespear's version of the Statistics of the
North-Western Provinces[100] that the Hindoos of the city of Benares
amounted to 147,082 persons, and the Mahomedans to 36,409, making a
total of 183,491, giving 34,621 inhabitants to a square mile, which is
the largest amount of population of any city.
Benares, as I have already observed, is a very crowded city. In
speaking of Kanoge, I stated that, according to Mr. Maurice,[101] it
was supposed to have been a hundred miles in circumference, with a
population of 2,500,000 or 3,000,000. Taking the former number to be
correct, there would have been 4,000 souls to every square mile. A
country is considered to be well peopled which has 100 inhabitants to
every square mile. Certainly, neither London, nor any city in Europe,
can have an amount of population equal to one-fourth of Benares. The
late Mr. James Prinsep took the census, between the years 1824 and
1827, and it is not called in question now. Recollecting, also, that
there are many six-storied houses, not only along the banks, but rising
in tiers, closely behind one another, with only a few feet space
between them, the European traveller will not be so much surprised at
the immense mass of habitations thus congregated together. In 1815,
Benares was computed to contain 8,000 houses, occupied by the families
of the Brahmins, who receive charitable contributions, and subsist
chiefly on the daily offerings of the wealthy inhabitants and pilgrims,
although many of them possess private property of their own.
In 1803, the supposed population of the city and suburbs of Benares
amounted to 582,000, exclusive of the attendants of the three Mogul
princes, who were reported to be 3,000, making an aggregate of 585,000
souls. At that time the Mahomedans were considered to be one to every
ten Hindoos. The above return gives 36,409 Mahomedans to 147,082
Hindoos, or a total of 183,491 in the city of Benares, making the
Hindoos to exceed the Mahomedans in the ratio of about four to one.
Mr. Prinsep took a census in 1824, and gave the returns at 181,482. It
is probably now 200,000. Mr. Prinsep's census gives six as the average
number of inhabitants to a chowk (yard or court), whether in the city
or in the rural outskirts, seven to a pucka (brick) house, and four and
a half to a kucha (mud) house.
In the year 1809, the Government resolved to impose a tax on all
the houses in the city; upon which thousands of Brahmins and other
inhabitants quitted it, and great excitement and uproar prevailed.
A serious riot would inevitably have taken place, had not Mr. W.W.
Bird, the late Deputy Governor of Bengal, an able and excellent
officer, hurried to the spot and promptly quelled the disturbance. The
inhabitants hereupon petitioned the Government; and vowed that if the
tax were persisted in, they would represent the matter at Calcutta.
The authorities, who had not displayed much judgment in the imposition
of the tax, had the good sense at once to abolish the obnoxious
impost; but in consequence of the _émeute_, the Government considered
it prudent to have a European corps at hand, in the event of any
future disturbance; and a royal regiment was accordingly stationed at
Ghazepore.
Notwithstanding its dense, close, and crooked streets, taken as a
whole, there are few cities that can carry off the palm from Benares,
with its gilded pagodas, its temples, and its mosques, their slender
minarets, rising in majestic grace amid countless domes and cupolas,
all standing out in bold relief, among the varied forms and foliage
of groves of mangoes, tamarinds, and plantains, the sombre cypress,
and the beauteous palm, beneath the deep blue canopy of heaven, and
lighted up by the glorious effulgence of an Eastern sun.
The most celebrated of these mosques is that built by the Emperor
Aurungzebe. In order to mortify the Hindoos, he destroyed their most
renowned temple, that of Vishnu, and not only raised his mosque upon
its site, but, as if to heighten the indignity, caused the materials
of their sacred edifice to be used in the construction of this rival
temple, which was to celebrate the triumph of the Koran over the laws
of Menu. What a contrast to the liberal spirit evinced by Akbar, in the
exercise of his power. That great emperor, at the solicitation of his
Brahmin prime minister, rescinded a caput tax, which had been imposed
upon all his Hindoo subjects. History and experience teach us by many a
lesson, how much we lose by harshly opposing the prejudices of others;
and how much we gain by the adoption of conciliatory measures--provided
no principle be involved--but alas! how slow we all are to learn this
important lesson.
This mosque rises in the centre of the noble range of temples, ghâts,
and edifices, that run along the left bank of the sacred Ganges. As
seen from the river, it presents a most striking appearance. It stands
at an elevation of eighty feet above the level of the Ganges, while its
graceful minarets, tapering as they rise, tower to a height of 147 feet
from their foundation. It is the most conspicuous edifice in the city,
being visible for many miles round. The precise date of its erection is
not known, but as the emperor died in 1707, we may assign 150 years ago
as the period.
I ascended one of the two lofty minarets which flank the principal
cupola. It had lately been restored to its original state by the
British government, under the able superintendence of Mr. James
Prinsep, British Resident at Benares. This was a most critical
undertaking; for the minars were more than a foot out of the
perpendicular. I enjoyed an extensive and magnificent view of the city
and adjacent country, which for ten miles round is held sacred by
the Hindoos. Indeed so highly is it venerated, that pilgrims resort
to it from all parts of India, and those who, from age, or other
circumstances, are unable to perform the lengthened journey themselves,
send willing proxies, to whom they pay considerable sums. Many come
there to wash away their sins; and not a few to die within its
hallowed precincts.
Looking down from this dizzy height, upon the almost miniature world
below, such a strange sensation came over me, that I could well
conceive the propensity of certain minds to precipitate themselves
from a lofty elevation. Several melancholy instances of this kind are
said to have occurred here; a few perhaps from impulse, others from
despair, and some from mere foolhardiness, with a view of immortalizing
their names. Among the last, I was told, was a Fakeer, or devotee, who,
whether by accident or design, contrived his fall so cleverly that
it was broken by his being caught midway by the matting of a roof,
and he alighted almost unscathed upon the floor. The people of course
considered this as a miracle; and the Fakeer would doubtless have been
idolized by them, had not his cupidity exceeded his love of notoriety,
and induced him to make his escape with sundry articles belonging to
the good Samaritan who had poured oil and wine into his bruises.
The city of Benares has long been known as the ancient seat of
Brahminical learning; and to this day it retains its fame. The arts
and sciences still flourish; and the schools and colleges for the
training of the priests are yet celebrated, while the laws of Menu
continue to be expounded in Sanscrit. But with all his erudition and
research, the learned Brahmin is sunk in the most abject ignorance;
and with all his wisdom, he degrades the nobler faculties of his mind,
by bowing down to worship the most disgusting of monster-idols. Here,
as elsewhere in our Indian possessions, the germs of Christianity
have been sown under the fostering care of various British Protestant
Missionary Societies, especially of the Church Missionary Society.
Benares already boasts of fifteen missionary schools, one of them
being founded by a wealthy Hindoo. All these schools are more or less
frequented by Hindoo children; and the public preaching of the Gospel
has been the means of making many of the natives acquainted with the
superiority of the Christian religion.
Next to the mosque of Aurungzebe, the most conspicuous object in the
city is the celebrated observatory of Rajah Jey Singh, of Jeypore,
so renowned as an astronomer. He was likewise the builder of the
observatory at Delhi. Here, too, everything is in character with the
mind of its great designer, the instruments, etc., being on a grand
scale. It is built of large blocks of red sand-stone; and, from its
elevated position, commands an extensive prospect over the river and
the surrounding country.
Benares is so well known, that I shall not attempt to give any further
description of its numerous interesting buildings, nor of the strange
sights and scenes which greet you at every turn.
Benares formerly possessed a mint for the coinage of rupees. It was
under the direction of the late Mr. James Prinsep, who was the last
mint-master. This gentleman was the youngest brother of a family, whose
eminent services and varied talents, have identified them with the
history of India. Mr. James Prinsep was a good Sanscrit scholar, and
deciphered the Sanscrit inscription upon the stone pillar in the fort
of Allahabad, as I said before, and which had baffled all previous
attempts. In short his was a mind to grasp all things. When the mint
at Benares was broken up, Mr. Prinsep was appointed assay-master at
Calcutta, and so highly was he esteemed, both as a public servant,
and as the liberal patron of everything good and noble, that upon
his early death, in 1840, his fellow-citizens erected a splendid
landing-place to his memory, one of the first objects of interest which
attracts the eye of the traveller on sailing up the Hoogly. It is
called Prinsep's Ghât.
I cannot take leave of Benares without saying a word or two about its
bazaars, which are most attractive, not only from possessing the usual
display of an Oriental mart and rendezvous of the most varied ranks,
tribes, and costumes, but also from the extreme beauty and costliness
of the native manufactures. Foremost among these, are the jewellery,
and the exquisite works in gold and silver. These are made of the pure
metal; and though they may not have the same strength and brilliancy
as the alloyed, they are more intrinsically valuable, and are held
in greater esteem by the natives. Many of these works are elaborate
and highly finished. I was particularly struck with the ingenuity
and delicacy displayed in the manufacture of a vine leaf, serving
the purpose of a tea-ladle; every portion of which was so finely and
minutely cut, as to leave only the slender fibres. The value of the
labour bestowed upon this little article, was at least a hundred and
fifty per cent. upon the cost of the original material. The price of
the silver might be four shillings, and the cost of the labour about
six. Precious stones, and especially the diamonds from the mines of
Bundelkund, form an extensive article in the trade in jewellery which
is carried on here, and are much sought after. The beautiful muslins
and Benares scarfs, of red and gold, are the admiration and envy both
of native and European ladies. The bazaars, too, abound in vessels of
various metals, especially copper; and in manufactures in peacocks'
feathers, and ingenious toys gaily painted, the colours of which are
very durable, and in no danger of being effaced.
The district of Benares is also famous for its growth and manufacture
of sugar; indeed, about half the quantity of sugar imported from
Calcutta is raised in this neighbourhood. Thus this sacred city
presents attractions to those who admire it on account of its
antiquity, or sanctity; the richness of its manufactures, or the
lucrativeness of its commerce.
The Rajah of Benares has a palace at Ramnuggur, on the right bank of
the Ganges, about four miles from the city. It has been the residence
of the Rajahs ever since the flight of Cheyte Singh from the city, in
1781.
The cantonments which are situated at Secrole, about four miles from
the river, contain the second company fifth battalion, with No. 4 Light
Field-battery, and third company fifth battalion, Foot Artillery,
48th and 65th Regts. Native Infantry; and 3rd Infantry Recruit depôt.
The church is a very good one. There is likewise a large theatre,
and a fine racket-court. The Society at Secrole is very agreeable;
independently of the military, it is the station of five or six
civilians, a chaplain, and eleven missionaries. The station is large
and very healthy; many of the residences are well built, and surrounded
by pleasant compounds and gardens; the best are those belonging to the
civilians, which, being situated across the Birnah, are united to it by
a bridge.
Benares is the scene of the treacherous murder of Mr. Cherry, the
British Resident, and three other gentlemen, in January, 1799, which
being well known, I will only briefly allude to. Upon the death of
Asoph-ud-Dowlah, Nawab of Oude, in 1797, he was succeeded in the
government by his illegitimate son, Mirza Ali; but being much disliked
he was deposed, and his uncle, Saadut Ali, placed upon the throne.
Mirza was at first permitted to reside at Benares; but as he was
suspected of hatching a conspiracy, the Marquis Wellesley determined
upon his removal, under strict surveillance, to Calcutta. Mirza Ali
was exceedingly indignant at the proposed change, and remonstrated
with the government. But as his application did not meet with a
favourable reply, he waited upon the British Resident; his bearing
and language were so intemperate, that the Resident admonished him
to be more careful, which so exasperated Mirza, that he rushed upon
Mr. Cherry sword in hand. This was a signal for his attendants to
follow his example. They made a general rush, and cruelly murdered
him upon the spot. This assassination was followed by that of three
other Englishmen; the murderers then made a similar attempt upon Mr.
Davis, the Judge; but he made a desperate resistance to save himself,
and his family. Armed with a short spear, he stood at the top of the
narrow winding staircase, on the roof of his house; like all circular
stairs, it only admitted a single person at a time. The first man who
came to the top was speared, and his dead body blocked up the passage,
and impeded the attack of those behind him. Mr. Davis succeeded in
warding off the blows, till the arrival of a body of Native Cavalry,
upon which Mirza and his attendants took to flight. The regiment was
at that time stationed at Sultanpore, seven miles distant. Saadut Ali,
notwithstanding the danger to which the suspected conspiracy against
his throne exposed him, was too imbecile to use any efforts in aiding
the British to capture the assassins, who successfully eluded the
vigilance of the government for some months. Mirza Ali even succeeded
in collecting a considerable number of adventurers; but upon some
offence they abandoned him, and he took refuge in the court of a petty
Rajah, who, however, refused to harbour him, and delivered him up to
the British government.
Amid the many strange vicissitudes of Indian history, it is by no means
unusual to find deposed sovereigns, and other persons of rank, residing
at Benares as state prisoners. Among these I would particularize Bajee
Row, the late Peishwah, who, after many changes of fortune, surrendered
to the English, in 1818. He agreed to abdicate the throne, and to
abandon the Deccan, on condition of his retaining all his treasures,
and receiving an annual pension from the British government of eight
lakhs of rupees, or £80,000 sterling. I visited his palace, and found
that the ex-Peishwah still retained some semblance of royalty, in the
person of one or two Sepoys, who were on duty at his gate. He died at
Benares, in 1851.
In February 1836, the deposed Rajah of Coorg came to Benares. He had
been attacked, in 1834, by a division of the Madras army, and his
capital, Mercara, taken. In March 1840, his Highness the ex-Rajah of
Sattarah was sent to Benares, on the plea of having attempted to tamper
with the loyalty of the British Sepoys. He has since died. Therefore,
though Benares is not "a refuge for the destitute," unless he be a high
caste Brahmin, it may nevertheless be called the "Asylum of deposed
Rajahs." Nor must I omit the name of the Maharannee, the mother of the
ex-Maharajah Dhuleep Singh, of Lahore, who in 1848 was sent from the
Punjaub to Benares, for causing a disaffection towards the British.
After residing here for a short time, her Highness was conveyed to
the more secure fort, as the officials thought, of Chunar, but from
whence she effected her escape, early in 1849, in the disguise of one
of her attendants, not being recognised by the sentries at the gates.
She is supposed to have reached Nepaul; but how she was received by
the Goorkhas--how she likes the country--where her Highness intends
to live--and by what funds supported--must be left to the imagination
of the reader. Certain it is, that the East India Government ought
not to regret the absence of so expensive a pensioner. She exerted
too powerful a control over the Maharajah, her son, to be allowed to
remain at Lahore with impunity. Her Highness, like many clever women,
is somewhat dangerous, particularly as being the mother of the King of
Lahore. But there is now no King of Lahore. The revenues of the Punjaub
belong to the East India Company, the territorial supremacy, however,
is vested in the crown; the Company being only the Trustees.
The life and adventures of this Queen-mother would form a most
extraordinary and amusing volume. So varied have been her
vicissitudes, that, while her intrigues and romantic amours might be
the subject of a novel, the history of the cruelties and murders which
have marked her steps since the death of her husband, Runjeet Singh,
would furnish matter for a tragedy.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 99: See Appendix XXII.]
[Footnote 100: 1848, p. 155, table xxx.]
[Footnote 101: Indian Antiquities, p. 36.]