I. The Straight-Through Tie-up for Ingrain Carpets._The Jacquard Machine Analyzed and Explained With an appendix on the preparation of jacquard cards, and practical hints to learners of jacquard designing

[Illustration: Fig. CVIII.]

Fig. CVIII., p. 73, represents the arrangement of the neck-cords with

the heddles (through the harness-cords). There are two separate bottom

boards in the machine, marked _A_, _B_, for ground and figure; also two

corresponding lifter-boards, which are illustrated separately by Fig.

CIX.

[Illustration: Fig. CIX.]

The four journals are clearly illustrated by Fig. CX. (each journal

carrying its own set of threads).

The first thread in the loom (left side)

will be found on the first journal.

" second " " "

" " " third "

" third " " "

" " " second "

" fourth " " "

" " " fourth "

[Illustration: Fig. CX.]

This arrangement of threads, 1, 3, 2, 4, is repeated throughout the

fabric. For an example, a carpet is shown termed “extra fine,” executed

on 26 “designs,” requiring 26 × 8, or 208 small squares for warp on the

designing paper. Ingrain carpets are generally woven one yard wide,

having in this width two repeats or divisions; hence the number of

harness-cords for the present example is as follows: 26 × 8 = 208 × 2,

for ground and figure; 416 × 2, for two divisions, = 832 harness-cords

(or 416 leashes) required for tying-up.

[Illustration: Fig. CXI.]

Fig. CXI. illustrates the adjustment of heddle (mail) and lingo through

the journal, _J_, by means of the heavy knot at _b_. This knot must be

large enough not to pass through the hole of the journal. The average

measures for the present drawing are as follows:

Lingo, _f_ to _g_ = 9 inches.

Heddle, _e_ to _f_ = 8 "

_c_ to _d_ = 10 "

Mail, _d_ to _e_ = 6/8 "

Height of journal, _b_ to _c_ = 1-1/8 inches.

Connecting cord of heddle to harness-cord, _a_ to _b_ = 6 inches.

This drawing will explain the principle of raising the warp either by

means of the harness-board, (arrow 1), or by means of the knot through

raising the journal, (arrow 2). If raised by means of the harness-cord,

the connecting heddle slides upwards in the hole provided for it in

the journal; or the journal takes the place of a common comber-board;

but if the journal be used for raising, the knot, _b_, will rise with

it, carrying the heddle the same as before, the harness-cords becoming

slack by this movement.

In Fig. CVIII., p. 73, the journals are arranged as follows:

1st journal, } for ground, { White, 1st set of threads. } For repeat,

2d " } { Olive, 3d " " } -- 238 times

3d " } for figure, { Red, 2d " " } over.

4th " } { Black, 4th " " }

In the same drawing are also represented the first eight heddles (in

both divisions), as connected with harness-cords 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7,

8; also the last four heddles of the rear journal (fourth) connected

with their corresponding cords, 404, 408, 412, 416.

The first row (1 to 8) illustrates the principle of tying-up the

harness and the leasing of the heddles; whereas the four heddles in the

rear (404, 408, 412, and 416) show the practical commencement of the

tie-up, _i. e._, four neck-cords in succession to four heddles of the

journal.

_A_ represents bottom-board in the machine where the neck-cords for the

ground harness-cords pass through. _B_, the bottom-board in the machine

where the neck-cords for the figure harness-cords pass through.

In Fig. CIX., showing the lifter-boards, _A_ is also used for the

ground, and _B_ for the figure; 26 rows of the machine are shown for

explaining the tie-up for a texture known as “extra fine,” or equal to

832 heddles in the width of loom (one yard).

Jacquard machines for two-ply ingrain carpets are usually constructed

with 34 rows, and 33-1/2 of these are used. 33-1/2 rows have 33-1/2

× 8, or 268 needles, which carry 1072 threads, the number actually

used in what is termed a full “extra super.” Should only 30 of these

be used, having 30 × 8, or 240 needles, and carrying 960 threads for

warp, the carpet is termed “super;” and if 25 rows, with 25 × 8 = 200

needles are used, carrying 800 threads, the product is called “fine”

ingrain, and represents about the lowest grade of these carpets. It

frequently happens that we find slight variations in the number of

threads used in the various grades of carpet named. The pattern may

require such a change, or economy in production may induce the maker to

use a smaller number; or, as is done in a few instances, a manufacturer

may always make his “extra super” on 32 rows; but all such changes are

done by a corresponding depreciation of the value of the fabric, as

compared with a full “extra super” of 33-1/2 rows.

[Illustration: Fig. CXII.]

[Illustration: Fig. CXIV.]

[Illustration: Fig. CXIII.]

Fig. CIX., p. 74, illustrates the full 34 rows, and indicates 26

rows used for illustration of tie-up (4 rows empty on each side).

In power-looms the raising of the different journals is generally

accomplished by an arrangement of cams, but in hand-looms it is done by

the lifter-boards.

In Fig. CIX. the four large holes on each side are made for this

purpose, and the wires for raising the journals are shown by heavy

lines in tie-up in Fig. CVIII., p. 73. Fig. CXII. represents the

process of lifting the journals, as follows:

First pick raises lifter-board _A_, journal 4; second pick raises

lifter-board _B_, journal 1; third pick raises lifter-board _A_,

journal 3; fourth pick raises lifter-board _B_, journal 2.

The two positions of the four “tails” in these four picks are

illustrated as follows: Fig. CXIII., hole in cylinder; CXIV., no hole

in cylinder. The black spots represent the knots, either as caught in

the slot or passing free in the hole.

Looms tied-up on the foregoing principles have but one operation of

the Jacquard needles for every two picks of the loom, there being an

operation of the ground and figure lifter-boards in succession between

the operations of the Jacquard needles. Each Jacquard needle controls

two tails, one connected with the warp for the figure, (red and black

in our example), and the other to the warp for the ground, (olive and

white in our example). The drawing of the lifter-boards shows the slots

for catching the tails in opposite directions from each other; hence,

when the figuring tail of the needle is adjusted so as to be lifted by

the figure lifter-board, the ground-tail will not be acted on by the

ground lifter-board when it rises.

To give a clear understanding of the foregoing explanations, a detailed

statement of the operations of the loom necessary in weaving a piece of

the fabric is shown in sectional cut Fig. CVII., as follows:

------+-----+------------+------------+--------------+-----------------

+--+ | for | for | Journal |

---+--------+------------+------------+--------------+-----------------

| | | | |

2 | Red. | At rest. | Lifts white| Red. | Black for

| | | | |

| | | | |

| | | | |

| | | | |

6 | Red. | At rest. | Lifts white| Red. | Black for

| | | | |

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26 | Red. | At rest. | Lifts white| Red. | Black to bind

| | | | |

| | | | |

| | | | |

| | | | |

30 | Red. | At rest. | Lifts white| Red. | Black to bind

| | | | |

| | | | |

---+--------+------------+------------+--------------+----------------

[Illustration: Fig. CXV.]

Fig. CXV., p. 76, illustrates a fabric design for an ingrain carpet,

straight-through tie-up, _a_ and _b_ forming one repeat, (or one

division), equal to one-half yard.

The Jacquard Machine Analyzed and Explained With an appendix on the preparation of jacquard cards, and practical hints to learners of jacquard designing · 第 44 / 86 题