This method of tying-up is based upon the straight-through tie-up
principle, arranged as follows: The design in the fabric repeats from
its centre equally towards each selvedge.
[Illustration:
Centre.
| ^ |
| / | \ |
| / | \ |
| / | \ |
/ \
Selvedge. Selvedge.]
[Illustration: Fig. CXVI.]
[Illustration: Fig. CXVII.]
Figs. CXVI. and CXVII. illustrate two fabric designs, _a_ to _b_, the
width of the fabric or one yard on the loom; _c_ is the centre or point
of the design; _b_ to _d_ is the repeat of _a_ to _c_, where the widths
are sewed together.
[Illustration: Fig. CXVIII.]
Fig. CVIII., p. 73, shows the first and last rows, also the two centre
rows of the journals threaded to the neck-cords (tail-cords) of the
machine. Each cord is numbered to correspond. _a_, _b_, _c_, _d_,
represent the cords for lifting the journals, on the same principle as
in the straight-through tie-up. In power-looms this is done by a cam
arrangement.
Fig. CXIX., p. 80, is designed to give a thorough understanding of
the adjustment of harness-cords to heddles, as well as the leasing of
the latter. The numbers selected for indicating the different cords
correspond with those used in Fig. CXVIII.
Journal 1 = white, } ground.
" 2 = olive, }
" 3 = red, } figure.
" 4 = black, }
Arrangement of threading; _a_ to _b_, 51 times repeated, = 408 cords.
The last row in the half width illustrated separately
by _c_ to _d_, which is the same as _a_ to _b_, = 8 " 416
---
_S_ forms the centre or point; _e_ to _f_, first row of
each journal, near centre, (repeat of centre-cord for
ground or figure omitted; see _o_ on
journals 2 and 4), = 6 "
_g_ to _h_, 50 times repeated, = 400 "
_i_ to _k_, last row, same as _g_ to _h_, = 8 " 414
--- ---
Total number of cords used, 830
The following is the method employed in drawing for indicating the
different colors of warp-threads:
Blank for white, } ground.
Light shaded for olive, }
Heavy shaded for red, } figure.
Black for black, }
[Illustration: Fig. CXIX.]
[Illustration: Fig. CXX.]
The beauty of an ingrain carpet consists in its color combination.
In hand-looms the common batten is used in connection with a shuttle
which is somewhat curved, a form most suitable to being thrown by the
hand. The batten naturally falls towards the weaver by its own gravity,
being usually worked a little out of a vertical line for that purpose.
In this method the shed forms its own shuttle-race, or bed upon which
the shuttle slides. When two or more shuttles are used, they are laid
on the woven piece of carpet before the weaver, and he selects them
as required. If a solid shuttle-race is connected to the batten, the
warp-threads are pressed down upon it and the shuttle slides upon the
ridge of the warp-threads. In this case the “fly-shuttle” is used, and
also the “drop-box;” the latter being operated by some of the reserve
needles of the Jacquard machine.
[Illustration: Fig. CXXI.]
Fig. CXX. shows a shuttle-box mechanism for carpet hand-looms. As
already stated, the four journals in power-looms are lifted by cams or
similar contrivances. In Fig. CXXI. (representing the Crompton carpet
loom) this cam arrangement is clearly visible; the cams are situated
above the journals, the latter being lifted by means of the journal
rods from above. The loom carries four shuttle-boxes at each end of the
lathe; any one of the series at either end can be brought into line
with the shuttle-race at any pick.
[Illustration: Fig. CXXII.]
In some looms the journals are also lifted from below, as shown in Fig.
CXXII., representing the “Knowles” carpet loom. In this the journals
are controlled by a chain motion, instead of a cam, operating either
journal at will, which can not be done on a loom where the journals are
actuated by cams. This permits the shading of a fabric to be changed
without cutting out the warp and re-drawing it. The box mechanism (four
boxes on each side of the lathe) is positive, and controlled by a chain
on the same shaft as the journals, and may be used with the chain
alone, or with the chain in combination with the cards. The motion can
be run forward or reversed at will, and any box called as desired.
Before closing this article, it is necessary to mention the method
of working the loom built with a stationary “shuttle-raceway” and an
independent “comb,” the latter having a reciprocating movement for
beating up the filling, and a rising and falling motion for bringing
the comb up into, and taking it out of the warp; it has also yielding
racks and filling forks, and a cam so timed for operating the forks,
that the latter will seize the filling and carry it forward in front of
the range of the said comb.
Fig. CXXIII. illustrates the side view of the comb and its lay;
also the parts necessary to be shown for working the same: _k_, the
independent lay; _d_, the comb; _c_, the reed; _a_, its lathe; _b_,
the shuttle-race; _c_, the breast beam of loom; oval ring, _d_, _e_,
_g_, represents the motion of the comb in beating up the filling; _e_,
_r_, upper shed of the warp; _e_, _t_, lower shed of the warp; _x_,
the shed; _h_, stud fixed to the loom framing; _h_, _i_, to _i_, _k_,
toggle connection of lay to stud, _h_; _i_, _m_, to _m_, _l_, crank
connected at _i_ to the toggles; _l_, crank shaft; _p_, _o_, lever for
raising and lowering the lay, _k_; _n_, its fulcrum; _s_, grooved cam
for working lever, _p_, _o_.
[Illustration: Fig. CXXIII.]
[Illustration: Fig. CXXIV.]
The vibratory movement of the comb-lay for beating up the filling is
produced by the action of the cranks upon the toggle connections; and
the upward and downward movement of the lay, to produce the entrance of
the comb into the warp and its withdrawal therefrom, is produced by the
action of the lever upon the grooved cam. The comb, _d_, is constructed
of teeth, which are secured together by a bolt passing through them,
and which have their bases of dovetail form to enable them to be
secured between a dovetail lip, on the lay, and a dovetail clamping
plate, secured to the lay by bolts.
Fig. CXXIV. illustrates the method of lifting the journals from below.
The journals, of which there are four, are arranged to work in upright
fixed guides on the loom framing, _d_, _e_, _f_, _g_, and are operated
by treadles, which are arranged in pairs below, each journal being
connected with one pair of treadles by two rods at its opposite ends.
These treadles are operated by cams for each pair of treadles and each
journal.
[Illustration: Fig. CXXV.]
Fig. CXXV. represents the top view of the “fixed guides” containing
the journals. This loom is provided with ten shuttle-boxes, (seven for
the revolver, three upright), for each side, and built by the Furbush
Machine Company, being a combination of their older carpet loom known
as the “Murkland,” and the “Duckworth Carpet Loom.”
[Illustration]