III. The Substitution of Tail-cords for Hooks.

Jacquard machines having this construction are generally employed in

the manufacture of ingrain carpets.

[Illustration: Fig. CV.]

Fig. CV. represents the sectional cut of one row of needles across

the machine; also the necessary boards for guiding and operating the

tail-cords. This machine consists of two divisions (I. and II.,) which

are worked alternately for the common 2-ply ingrain carpet.

_A_, represents the top board, to which the tail-cords are fastened

around a wire by knot shown below the boards. Each board is 6-1/4 by

3/4 inches, with a distance of 1-1/4 inches between them.

_B_, represents the “Lifter-boards” (trap-boards) which are shown in

top view in the special article devoted to the manufacture of ingrain

carpets. (Fig. CIX., p. 74.) Its dimensions are 6-1/4 inches by 1 inch.

Distance from top-boards to lifter-boards, 9-1/4 inches. _C_ to _D_,

needle-board. Arrow, _S_, the direction of working the cylinder towards

the needles. _F_ to _G_, the needle-box with its pin for holding the

needles in position. Each needle is connected to two tail-cords, as

indicated in the drawing, one for figure and one for ground. _H_ and

_L_ are the two guide-boards for the tail-cords. Distance from _B_ to

_H_, 7-1/4 inches, from _H_ to _L_, 8-1/2 inches. Dimensions of each

guide-board, 6-1/4 inches by 3/4 inch. Each tail-cord is weighted by a

small lead weight, as shown at _K_ in drawing.

In this machine the springs for the needles are omitted, and a board

large enough to cover the ends of all the needles, substituted. [See

arrow, _P_.]

[Illustration: Fig. CVI.]

Fig. CVI. illustrates the rear view of the needle-box, _B_, and the

board for pressing the needles, _A_. _C_ shows the hanger, which is

attached (movable) to the top of the machine. [See _E_, in Fig. CV.]

Tying-up of Jacquard Harness for Two-ply Ingrain Carpets.

With a General Description of the Working of the Loom and Construction

of the Fabric.

Two-ply Ingrain Carpet is an article composed of two fabrics, produced

on the regular double-cloth system. These two fabrics are arranged

in the loom to form figures by a simple exchanging of positions.

A great variety of colors may be put into each of these separate

fabrics, (ground and figure), and the most elaborate designs may be

used. On every part of the carpet where these two fabrics do not

exchange, each works on the plain weave. The exchanging of these two

fabrics binds both into one, thus forming the ingrain carpet. In the

manufacture of this carpet four sets of warp-threads, and also four

sets of filling-threads are generally employed; but, if occasionally

more or less should be used, in warp or in filling, or in both, in

the same fabric, the principle of exchanging is still observed. If

employing four sets in warp and filling, two sets of each are used

for forming the figure, the other two sets forming the ground, each

of the figure-threads having as its mate one of the ground-threads.

These threads are so arranged that when a figure-thread appears upon

the face of the fabric its mate appears upon the back, and when the

figure-thread appears upon the back the corresponding ground-thread

appears upon the face.

[Illustration: Fig. CVII.]

To give a clearer understanding of the foregoing, a sectional cut of an

Ingrain carpet fabric is given in Fig. CVII.

Suppose the filling-threads for the figure to be:

RED, indicated by heavy shaded circles;

picks 2, 6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26, 30.

BLACK, indicated by full black circles;

picks 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32.

And the filling-threads for the ground to be:

WHITE, indicated by empty circles;

picks 1, 5, 9, 13, 17, 21, 25, 29.

OLIVE, indicated by light shaded circles;

picks 3, 7, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31.

A careful examination of the drawing shows that the white threads mate

with the red, and the black threads with the olive, so that when one of

these colors shows upon the face the mating color will show upon the

back, and _vice versa_.

As a general rule, these warp-threads are of the same color as the

weft-threads; hence, every filling pick, appearing either on face or

back, is bound by a warp-thread of the same color. The sectional cut

represents four distinct effects with 32 picks, thus allowing 8 picks

for the illustration of each part.

1st effect, picks 1 to 8,

is ground up (white and olive).

2d " " 9 to 16,

is figure up (red and black).

3d " " 17 to 24,

is 1st effect in “_shot about_” (red and olive up).

4th " " 25 to 32,

is 2d " " " (white and black up).

Two methods of tying-up Jacquard harness are in use:

1st, the “straight-through” principle,

(known to the trade as “cross-point”).

2d, the “point” method,

(known to the trade as “centre-tie”).

The Jacquard Machine Analyzed and Explained With an appendix on the preparation of jacquard cards, and practical hints to learners of jacquard designing · 第 43 / 86 题