_A.--Using machine and comber-board in two equal sections._
[Illustration: Fig. LIV.]
This tie-up, Fig. LIV., is used on fabrics having two different
kinds of warp, which, as a rule, are of different colors. One of
these warps is shown working at _B_ in the comber-board, and also at
the bottom-board. The other warp employed for the figure effect is
shown working at _A_. Fabrics that are made on this tie-up can also
be made on the common straight-through; but the work of designing
and card stamping will be largely increased. In the illustration
all the figure-threads, and also all the threads used for the
weave (binder-threads) can be designed without interruption to each
other. The breaking off of the figures is thus avoided, a thing
quite impossible where the regular straight-through tie-up is used.
The drawing given herewith represents this straight-through tie-up
in sections applied to a 200 Jacquard machine. The reserve rows are
omitted. The machine and the comber-board, it will be observed, are
divided into two even parts. In one part, the rear of _A_, of the
comber-board we thread only in the leashes from needles 1 to 100,
and in the other part, front of _B_, from needles 101 to 200. Hence,
the first row of the comber-board contains leashes 1 to 4 and 101 to
104; the second row will contain leashes 5 to 8 and 105 to 108; the
third row will contain leashes 9 to 12 and 109 to 112, and so on, each
division finishing on the last row (25th) with leashes 97 to 100 and
197 to 200.
The leasing of the threads is always done by alternately threading the
harness-cords of section _A_ with section _B_. Hence, first thread of
the warp draws in first mail of leash No. 1; second thread of the warp
draws in first mail of leash No. 101; third thread of the warp draws
in first mail of leash No. 2; fourth thread of the warp draws in first
mail of leash No. 102.
[Illustration: Fig. LV.]
Fig. LV., a fabric design for cloaking for straight-through tie-up in
two sections. _A_, face warp, black silk; _B_, back warp, black cotton.
_B. Using two machines and a comber-board having equal sections._
[Illustration: Fig. LVI.]
Sometimes two or more machines are employed in producing fabrics having
two systems of warps; each machine working on its own system. In this
manner Fig. LVI. is executed, representing a straight-through tie-up
arranged for two Jacquard machines, _S_ and _H_, in which the warp is
drawn in the Jacquard harness as follows: one end from machine _S_,
one end from machine _H_. For explanation two 100 Jacquard machines
are used for the purpose of simplifying the arrangements of laying
out and threading the comber-board. A larger Jacquard machine for the
illustrations would require more leashes, and the explanation would be
more difficult.
The comber-board, _a_, _b_, _c_, _d_, is divided into two equal parts,
_S_ and _H_. Each part containing the harness-cord for one machine
only. The drawing of the tie-up is arranged for two divisions, and also
readily explains any tie-up for more divisions.
The leasing of the Jacquard harness, _K_, is arranged (as illustrated
in the drawing by leash-rods _p_ and _r_) to commence as follows:
1st end: harness-cord fastened to No. 1 needle of machine, _S_; 2d end
to No. 1º needle of machine, _H_; 3d end to No. 2 needle of machine,
_S_; 4th end to No. 2º needle of machine, _H_; 5th end to No. 3 needle
of machine, _S_; 6th end to No. 3º needle of machine, _H_; 7th end to
No. 4 needle of machine, _S_; 8th end to No. 4º needle of machine, _H_.
These eight ends, forming the first complete row of the comber-board,
will use the first row of both machines; the second row of the
comber-board will use the second row of both machines; and so on,
until every row of the comber-board, with corresponding row of the
Jacquard machine, is taken up. In the drawing we have indicated, as
usual, besides the first row, the last row of the machine and the
comber-board; or, in other words, we show the threading of
Warp end 193: harness-cord fastened to No. 97 needle of harness _S_.
" 194: " " " 97º " " _H_.
" 195: " " " 98 " " _S_.
" 196: " " " 98º " " _H_.
" 197: " " " 99 " " _S_.
" 198: " " " 99º " " _H_.
" 199: " " " 100 " " _S_.
" 200: " " " 100º " " _H_.
This method of using two Jacquard machines, on the principle explained,
is employed on Jacquard looms for dressgoods figured with an extra
warp, on upholstery goods, and similar textile fabrics.
[Illustration: Fig. LVII.]
Fig. LVII. shows a fabric design for a curtain, to be executed on the
straight-through tie-up in two sections.
_C.--Using one machine and one comber-board: the machine unequally
divided and the comber-board equally divided._
To explain, take the regular upholstery fabric tie-up known as “petty
point,” on a 600 machine 12 rows in depth. 600 ÷ 12 = 50 + 2 rows
reserve = 52 rows in width. We find used--
1 row for selvedge.
10 rows for binders (_B_).
41 rows for figure (_A_).
--
52 rows.
41 (rows figure) × 12 (needles for one row) = 492 needles to be used
for figure.
10 (rows binder) × 12 (needles for one row) = 120 needles to be used
for binder.
Suppose we have four divisions in loom, hence, four harness-cords
to one leash, for the figure section, or 492 × 4 = 1968 ends of
warp used for figure. 1968 threads of figure warp require the same
number of threads of ground warp, which must be divided by 120, the
number of needles and hooks set apart for it in the machine, or--as
each needle and hook carries one leash--120 leashes. 1968 ÷ 120 = 16
repeats; and 48 leashes, or four rows in the machine, must each have 17
harness-cords carrying 816 threads; and 72 leashes, or six rows in the
machine, must each have 16 harness-cords carrying 1152 threads, = 1968.
VII. Tying-up a Jacquard Harness for Figuring Part of the Design with
an Extra Warp, (part for Two Sections, part for Single).
This tie-up (the character of which is indicated in Fig. LVIII.) is
used for textile fabrics having two distinct warps in part of the
fabric, and a single warp in the remainder, for ground only. It will
readily be seen in the drawing which explains this tie-up that one
part of the fabric will have to contain more ends of warp per inch
than the other, as the figuring is done with an extra warp upon the
regular ground cloth. The number of ends of ground warp per inch will,
as a general rule, be the same throughout the fabric. In Fig. LVIII.,
explaining this method of tying-up, the texture is twice as high in the
figure stripe as in the ground part of the fabric. If 40 ends of warp
per inch are used for the ground, 80 ends per inch must be used in the
figured part, _B_ to _C_, _B´_ to _C´_.
[Illustration: Fig. LVIII.]
A 200 machine is used in the illustration, divided as follows:
150 needles for the ground over the entire fabric, _A_ to _B´´_.
50 needles for the figure effects, _B_ to _C_, and _B´_ to _C´_.
The comber-board, therefore, must be arranged accordingly, (2-2/3
divisions in drawing executed). The depth of the comber-board is
divided into two parts: _H_, _M_, _N_, _K_, the first; _M_, _N_, _O_,
_P_, the second. The first contains leashes fastened to neck-cords
attached to needles 151 to 200, or the figure part, _F_ and _F´_; the
second contains leashes fastened to neck-cords attached to the needles
1 to 150, or the ground part for the entire fabric. In the drawing of
lines showing the harness-cords of the Jacquard harness we have only
indicated:
_A._ The ground part, leashes Nos. 1, 2, 3 and 4 in rotation, and No.
150. This last leash of the ground warp we have indicated by a heavy
line.
_B._ For the figure part, needles 151 to 200 are used. Leashes 151,
152, 153, 154, are indicated in rotation, also the leash operated by
hook 200; this latter one being also lined more distinctly than the
others.
These explanations readily show how to adapt the tying-up for any
textile fabric made upon this principle to any number Jacquard machine.