_A.--For fabrics requiring for their centres a straight-through tie-up
and for their borders a point tie-up, one-half division of it for each
border._
These tie-ups are used to a great extent for napkins, handkerchiefs,
scarfs, and similar damask fabrics, in which the centre part of the
fabric is worked on the straight-through method; the borders on each
side on the point tie-up, repeating equally from centre towards the
selvedge. In the other two borders to be woven at the beginning and the
end of the fabric, the same principle is observed, thus producing four
corner squares, only two of which need be designed, as the other two
repeat through the arrangement of the tie-up, which must repeat equally
towards both sides of the border at the connecting places.
[Illustration: Fig. XXXVIII.]
Fig. XXXVIII. illustrates this method of tying-up a 200 machine, using
192 hooks and needles, equal to 24 long rows of a regular 8-row deep
machine. The machine is divided into two sections, as follows:
Needles 1 to 96 for the 1st section or centre.
" 97 " 192 " 2d " " the border.
4 repeats of centre, = 4 x 96 = 384 ends.
2 repeats of border, one for each side, = 2 x 96 = 192
----
576 ends in fabric,
not including selvedge.
[Illustration]
The drawing represents four divisions for the centre, hence four
harness-cords for each leash. The border, having only two repeats
in the fabric, will contain only two harness-cords to one leash. In
the drawing the first full row of the machine is indicated, which
is equal to the first row deep of every centre division; containing
harness-cords 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. We also show (heavy line)
the last centre leash, No. 96 being the last hook of row 12 of the
machine. The borders _A´_ and _A´´_ are from the same design, but
the figure runs in an opposite direction in each one, as indicated
by the arrows in the comber-board above. Border _A´_ commences with
harness-cord from leash 192, ending with harness-cord from leash 97,
near the centre design. Border _A´´_ commences with harness-cord from
leash 97, near the centre design, ending with harness-cord from leash
192 near the selvedge. The great difficulty to be overcome in arranging
these patterns for the loom is in the union of the two tie-ups, the
straight-through and the point.
As previously stated, the borders _A´_ and _A´´_ are made with the
point tie-up, while the remainder of the borders are made with the
straight-through tie-up. The combination of these two tie-ups occurs in
the corner squares of the border, and the arrangement must be such as
will permit the two sides of the corner patterns to properly unite with
the design for the balance of the border.
Ground plan for above fabric: Letters _A_, _C_, _D_, _B_, _F_,
correspond to same letters as used on the outside of fabric design.
_S_, _S´_, _S´´_, _S´´´_, _S´´´´_, also correspond for centre division.
[Illustration: Fig. XXXIX.]
For the purpose of giving a correct comprehension of the foregoing
explanation of tying-up, but under a different arrangement, Fig. XXXIX.
was designed for a 600 machine, having the same arrangement of the
borders, viz.: point tie-up, using one-half division for each side; the
centre a straight tie-up, but employing only one repeat. The following
particulars will explain the entire procedure:
200 needles and hooks are used for borders, point tie-up, once through,
equals 1/2 division for each border. [See letters _B_ and _B´_ on
comber-board.]
[Illustration: Fig. XL.]
400 needles and hooks are used for centre, straight tie-up, one repeat.
[See letter _C_ on comber-board.]
200 ends for each border, = 400 warp-threads.
" centre, = 400 "
----
800 warp-threads.
In the ground plan of the fabric _A_ is the centre; _B_, _B´_, _B´´_,
_B´´´_, borders; _C_, _C´_, _C´´_, _C´´´_, corners.
Fig. XL. is a fabric design executed on this principle: _a_ to _b_,
border; _c_ to _d_, centre; _b_ to _a_, repeat of the first border.
Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined.
_B.--For fabrics requiring for their centres a straight-through tie-up,
and for their border on point tie-up one full division for each border._
This arrangement of both foundation tie-ups resembles the preceding.
The only difference is found in employing the full division of the
centre or point tie-up for each border instead of the half division.
[Illustration: Fig. XLI.]
Fig. XLI. illustrates this method of tying-up adjusted to a 600
Jacquard machine. The centre of the fabric requires 400 needles and
hooks in 6 repeats or divisions, or 400 × 6 = 2400 warp-threads. The
border calls for 204 needles and hooks, point tie-up, one full division
for each side, or 204 × 2 x 2 = 816 warp-threads. The arrangement of
margin and selvedge, as applied on each side, is explained separately
through ground plan of comber-board by fig. XLII. The margin calls for
8 needles and 8 hooks in machine, 6 repeats of same for each side, or
96 warp-threads. The selvedge is formed by 2, 4 or 8 needles, (working
plain), and has 24 heddles for each side or 48 selvedge-threads in
warp. These selvedge ends may, if preferred, be drawn two ends in one
heddle. By adding these different systems of threads we find:
Centre = 2400 warp-threads.
Borders = 816 " " (814 if point drawn only once.)
Margin = 96 " "
Selvedge = 48 " "
-----
3360 threads in warp.
For the centre part of the fabric, needle and hook 1 to 400 are used.
" border " " " " 401 " 604 "
" margin " " " " 605 " 612 "
Leaving one complete row of the reserve to use for selvedge, etc., if
required.
[Illustration: Fig. XLII.]
[Illustration: Fig. XLIII.]
In drawing, Fig. XLI., we only illustrate centre and border of the
tie-up, so as not to confuse the eye by too many lines, and, as
mentioned at the beginning, employed Fig. XLII. for illustrating
the ground plan for selvedge and margin. In selvedge and margin the
harness-cords are indicated by consecutive numbers, thus:
Margin, 1 to 48.
Selvedge, 1 " 24.
When threading margin in comber-board:
1, 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, call for the same leash.
2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, " " "
3, 11, 19, 27, 35, 43, " " "
4, 12, 20, 28, 36, 44, " " "
5, 13, 21, 29, 37, 45, " " "
6, 14, 22, 30, 38, 46, " " "
7, 15, 23, 31, 39, 47, " " "
8, 16, 24, 32, 40, 48, " " "
Leashes in centre part of fabric, 1 to 400 call for 6 harness-cords.
" border " 401 " 604 " 4 " "
" margin " 605 " 612 " 12 " "
" for selvedge if using 4 hooks, 613 " 616 " 12 " "
This tie-up is the one most frequently employed in the manufacture of
damask table-covers. Not only will drawings and explanations lead to
a thorough understanding of the procedure, but they will also readily
show the great variety of textile fabrics to which the principle of
this tie-up may be applied.
Fig. XLIII. illustrates the margin arranged 8 threads for each row,
and 5 rows or 40 threads for each side. The selvedge in this drawing
is illustrated by one complete row of 12 double threads for each
side. The selvedge and margin holes are all represented shaded. The
selvedge is marked _S_ in addition to the number. The five margin rows
are indicated each by figures 1 to 8. The nearest row of border is
also represented, being numbered 401 to 412, corresponding to Fig.
XLI. This method of using only 8 rows of the 12-row deep comber-board
is extensively used in fabrics of a common texture, employing an 8
harness satin for the margin as weave, which repeats once for each row
in comber-board. Besides, a great advantage results from being able to
tie-up 8 leashes threaded 8 rows deep in comber-board to the 8 hooks in
1 row of the machine, which the weave calls for.
[Illustration: Fig. XLIV.]
[Illustration: Fig. XLV.]
Fig. XLIV. and Fig. XLV. represent designs for fabrics executed on this
method of tying-up.
Fig. XLIV.--_A_ to _B_ = border, _C_ the centre.
_B_ " _D_ = margin, between centre and border.
_D_ " _E_ = 1 repeat of the centre, 6 times
over in width of fabric.
Fig. XLV.--_A_ to _B_ = border, _C_ its centre.
_B_ " _D_ = centre, 6 times over in width of fabric.
Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined.
_C.--For fabrics having the centre for straight-through, with the
border for straight-through and point tie-ups, (half divisions),
combined._
[Illustration: Fig. XLVI.]
[Illustration: Fig. XLVII.]
This method of tying-up is illustrated in Fig. XLVI., and the
fabric produced in Fig. XLVII. With this method of tying-up is
usually introduced an extra margin for the purpose of separating the
ornamentation of the design, so as to permit of a clearer definition.
This is tied-up on 8 needles and hooks, situated between border and
centre, (24 ends) shown at margin _B_ in the design. The centre of the
fabric, (two divisions only illustrated out of ten actually used), is
tied-up on the straight-through method, requiring for its working,
harness-cords 1 to 240. The border has the point tie-up in half
sections; these half sections have a straight-through tie-up design in
its centre. Harness-cords 241 to 456 are used for the straight-through
section, and 457 to 600 for the point tie-up section. The margin is
produced by harness-cords 601 to 608, leaving 16 needles and hooks
of the machine unemployed, which may be used for selvedge or other
purposes. The drawing of this tie-up and fabric illustrates only the
right-hand side. The complete design requires, in addition to the
borders and margins, 10 divisions or repeats in the centre. The figure
shows only two of these repeats and border and margins of one side. The
number of ends in the fabric is found as follows:
Centre, 10 × 240 = 2400 ends.
Border, {point, 4 × 144 = 576} = 1008 "
{straight, 2 × 216 = 432}
Margin, {between border and centre, 24 × 2 = 48} = 144 "
{between border and selvedge, 48 × 2 = 96}
Selvedge, not indicated in drawing of tie-up, = 48 "
----
3620 ends in warp.
Number of harness-cords required for each leash:
Leashes 1 to 240 = 10 cords to 1 leash.
" 241 " 456 = 2 " 1 "
" 457 " 600 = 4 " 1 "
" 601 " 608 = 18 " 1 "
Selvedge leashes, if worked by 4 needles and hooks, = 12 cords to 1
leash.
[Illustration: Fig. XLVIII.]
Fig. XLVIII., on page 42, illustrates another fabric design to be
executed on this method of tie-up.
_A_ to _D_ = Border { _A_ to _B_ = point tie-up with _C_ to _D_.
{ _B_ to _C_ = straight-through part.
_D_ to _E_ = Centre, first repeat, division, for straight-through.
Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined.
_D.--For fabrics composed of the straight-through tie-up for centre;
the point tie-up, half divisions, and the point tie-up, full divisions,
for borders._
This method of tie-up is used to a great extent in the manufacture
of damask napkins, containing in its centre the monogram of hotels,
restaurants, or private names. This effect is produced by floating the
filling.
[Illustration: Fig. XLIX.]
In this manner, we find tie-up, Fig. XLIX., and fabric sample, Fig.
L., executed, using for explanation a 400 Jacquard machine, certainly
very low texture for these fabrics. In case of a higher texture being
necessary, each effect must be proportionally increased. The machines
most generally used for this class of fabrics are of the 900-1200
denomination.
[Illustration: Fig. L.]
Taking the present tie-up into consideration, we find the centre
for forming the monogram, containing 200 harness-cords tied-up
straight-through the borders on each side of the monogram, is
executed on the point tie-up, one-half section for each side, taking
100 needles and hooks, or harness-cords. The outside border on each
side is executed on the point tie-up, using one complete division of
it for each side; and in addition, 100 harness-cords for the working.
Adding these various divisions of the harness-cords gives the number of
warp-threads as follows, viz.:
Border, _N_, 100 needles on point = 200 threads,
(199 if omitting the
point the second time).
" _M_, 100 needles on straight = 100 "
Centre, _L_, 200 " " straight = 200 "
Border, _M´_, 100 " " return = 100 "
" _N´_, 100 " " point = 200 "
(199 if omitting the
----- double point.)
800 threads.
For number of harness cords to each leash we find:
Needles and hooks, 1 to 100 = 4 cords to each leash.
" " 101 " 200 = 2 " " "
" " 201 " 400 = 1 cord " "
Fig. LI. illustrates a fabric, damask table-cover, to be executed on
the same principle.
[Illustration: Fig. LI.]
Margin = _a_ to _b_ and _h_ to _i_.
{ small = {_b_ to _c_ and return _c_ to _d_} Point.
Border { {_f_ " _g_ " " _g_ " _h_}
{ main = _d_ " _e_ " " _e_ " _f_ "
Centre = 1st division _i_ to _k_, straight-through.
This fabric can also be executed on the tie-up explained through Fig.
XLI., as follows:
Border = _a_ to _i_ on point tie-up, _e_ for centre or point.
Centre = 1st division _i_ to _k_, straight-through.
Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined.
_E.--Mixed Tie-up._
Containing in one repeat of the design the straight-through tie-up and
the point tie-up, one full division, for the centre; the point tie-up,
in half divisions, repeating once through on each side of the fabric,
to make the border. These arrangements of tie-ups are used to a great
extent in the manufacture of damask fabrics of every denomination.
The principle of using mixed tie-ups, Fig. LII., is found in the
necessity of producing large designs, containing varied effects, with a
proportionally smaller Jacquard machine. Under whatever management the
straight-through and the point tie-ups are combined, their principle
remains undisturbed. Every time we arrange a Jacquard loom on a mixed
tie-up, we must consider that any subsequent design must be arranged
with reference to the same principle as the one in use, otherwise the
work must all be rearranged, which would have to be done even for the
smallest change in the number of ends for each effect.
[Illustration: Fig. LII. Fig. LIII.]
Take for illustration a damask fabric, Fig. LIII., handkerchief, bureau
scarf, art square, etc. The details given will make the work quite
plain:
Part of comber-board from _A_ to _B_, or _D_ to _C_, illustrates
one-half of the board and procedure of tying-up. The design below also
shows only one-half of the fabric. Arrow, _G_, near comber-board,
and arrow, _M_, near fabric, are placed to indicate the direction
in which a repeat is obtained. The fabric will form its centre at
_D_, repeating towards each border and selvedge. This is illustrated
in the comber-board by the 1-row deep, outside of line _A_, _D_.
Harness-cords indicated by dotted lines. The threading of this last
mentioned row, as well as the threading of the half division of the
point tie-up, is indicated by arrows _H_ and _K_, forming the centre
by means of harness-cords 193 and 193. The straight-through tie-up
part of the fabric is found between _E_ and _F_, containing 12 repeats
in the centre, and also the same number in the lower border. In the
comber-board is illustrated this arrangement, repeating the first row,
containing harness-cords 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, twelve times, and
the last hole of the third row containing harness-cord No. 24, twelve
times. On the bottom of the comber-board these 12 repeats are indicated
by 12 small arrows between parts _E_ to _F_.
The first row in the first division of the straight-through tie-up is
completely threaded; the other eleven have only the harness-cord from
leash 1, as indicated; this is done so as not to confuse the eye with
too many lines. The border of the fabric is arranged for harness-cords
25 to 192 on the point tie-up, having one-half division on each side.
Arrow _L_ indicates the right-hand border. The border on the left
requires the same harness-cords which are threaded in comber-board from
right to left; hence the borders of the fabric contain the same design
repeating from the centre towards the selvedge.
At the beginning we stated that the use of mixed tie-ups made it
possible to employ a smaller size Jacquard machine for large designs
containing various effects. The following analysis of Fig. LII. shows
very clearly how this is done.
Number of warp-ends in one complete repeat in width of the fabric:
Border, right-hand, = 168 threads.
Centre, straight-tie, = 288 "
" point-tie, { = 168 "
{ = 168 "
" straight-tie, = 288 "
Border, left-hand, = 168 "
----
1248 ends warp in fabric.
Number of needles required to produce the design:
Border, = 168 needles. Centre on straight-tie, = 24 needles.
Centre on point-tie, = 168 needles. 360 needles required for
producing the complete design, thus saving the difference
between 1248 and 360, or 888 needles; all of which is
accomplished through the use of the mixed tie-up.
Number of harness-cords required for each leash:
Leashes 1 to 24 contain 24 cords for one repeat of the entire design.
Leashes 25 to 360 contain 2 cords for one repeat of the entire design.
It is not always practicable to reduce the effects in a design to
the lowest possible number of needles. On account of the changes in
styles, it is best to arrange these tie-ups with a view to giving as
much opportunity as possible to the designer. In the present tie-up
experience teaches that it will be more advantageous to arrange the
straight-through tie-up either for 6 divisions to 48 ends each, or 4
divisions to 72 ends each. 360 needles, as figured at the beginning,
require a 400 machine, or, counting reserve rows, 416 needles; hence we
can, without disadvantage, increase 360 needles to 384 or 408, which
will give a greater scope, if required, to make a new design.