The straight-through tie-up in three sections, which is illustrated by
drawings, Figs. LIX. and LX., is largely used in the manufacture of
fancy plushes and velvets, and also in the construction of any other
kinds of fabrics in which the face is figured in three systems of
warps, or in two systems of warps for the face and one system for the
binder.
If it were required, these fabrics could be made on the straight
tie-up, (Figs. XXV., XXVIII. and XXX.), but, as will readily be seen,
they may be worked to much better advantage, both for designing and
card-stamping, upon the method shown here.
[Illustration: Fig. LIX.]
Fig. LIX. illustrates the method of adjusting the leashes to the
neck-cords and threading the comber-board. In the example, we use for
describing the method a 900 Jacquard machine, and follow the English
system for placing it on the loom. The machine is divided into three
sections: Section 1, using hooks and needles 1 to 300; Section 2, using
hooks and needles 301 to 600; Section 3, using hooks and needles 601 to
900, leaving the two reserve rows (generally found in every machine)
out of the illustration.
The comber-board is divided into two divisions lengthways, (but the
same method must be observed if more than two divisions are used), and
also into three sections in its depth. The number of sections in the
comber-board must correspond to the number of sections in the machine.
The threading of the machine is done from the rear towards the front,
and from the left towards the right. The threading of the comber-board
is done in a corresponding manner. 300 ends for each section in one
division, divided by 4 rows deep each section, making 75 cross-rows.
Threading of the Jacquard harness is as follows:
No. 1 from Section 1, white.
301 " " 2, shaded.
601 " " 3, black.
2 " " 1, white.
302 " " 2, shaded.
602 " " 3, black.
3 " " 1, white.
303 " " 2, shaded.
603 " " 3, black.
4 " " 1, white.
304 " " 2, shaded.
604 " " 3. black.
5 " " 1, white.
305 " " 2, shaded.
605 " " 3, black.
[Illustration: Fig. LX.]
And so on; all of which are shown separately in Fig. LX.
_R_ and _R´´_ are for the two-lease strings; _S_, the successive
order of threads; _S´´_, the number of leashes. Hooks and needles
correspond with drawing _A_. White warp-threads indicate section 1;
shaded warp-threads, section 2; black warp-threads, section 3. The fine
lines in Fig. LIX. indicate the leashes for the first row deep of the
comber-board; the heavy lines indicate the last leash for each section.
Fig. LXI. illustrates a fabric designed for this tie-up. The various
small star effects are arranged on the principle of the 5-leaf satin.
[Illustration: Fig. LXI.]