No. 21, in it will also be found excellent. By adding over each layer a
little flour it makes a thick rich sauce. Half fresh meat and salt ditto
will also be found excellent. The price of these pans is moderate, and
they last a long time--manufacturers, Messrs. Deane and Dray.[36]
SERIES OF SMALL RECEIPTS FOR A SQUAD, OUTPOST,
OR PICKET OF MEN,
Which may be increased in proportion of companies.
CAMP RECEIPTS FOR THE ARMY IN THE EAST.
(_From the Times of the 22nd January, 1855._)[37]
_No. 15. Camp Soup._--Put half a pound of salt pork in a saucepan, two
ounces of rice, two pints and a half of cold water, and, when boiling,
let simmer another hour, stirring once or twice; break in six ounces of
biscuit, let soak ten minutes; it is then ready, adding one teaspoonful
of sugar, and a quarter one of pepper, if handy.
_No. 16. Beef Soup._--Proceed as above, boil an hour longer, adding a
pint more water.
_Note._--Those who can obtain any of the following vegetables will find
them a great improvement to the above soups:--Add four ounces of either
onions, carrots, celery, turnips, leeks, greens, cabbage, or potatoes,
previously well washed or peeled, or any of these mixed to make up four
ounces, putting them in the pot with the meat.
I have used the green tops of leeks and the leaf of celery as well as
the stem, and found, that for stewing they are preferable to the white
part for flavour. The meat being generally salted with rock salt, it
ought to be well scraped and washed, or even soaked in water a few hours
if convenient; but if the last cannot be done, and the meat is therefore
too salt, which would spoil the broth, parboil it for twenty minutes in
water, before using for soup, taking care to throw this water away.
_No. 17._--For fresh beef proceed, as far as the cooking goes, as for
salt beef, adding a teaspoonful of salt to the water.
_No. 18. Pea Soup._--Put in your pot half a pound of salt pork, half a
pint of peas, three pints of water, one teaspoonful of sugar, half one
of pepper, four ounces of vegetables, cut in slices, if to be had; boil
gently two hours, or until the peas are tender, as some require boiling
longer than others--and serve.
_No. 19. Stewed Fresh Beef and Rice._--Put an ounce of fat in a pot, cut
half a pound of meat in large dice, add a teaspoonful of salt, half one
of sugar, an onion sliced; put on the fire to stew for fifteen minutes,
stirring occasionally, then add two ounces of rice, a pint of water;
stew gently till done, and serve. Any savoury herb will improve the
flavour. Fresh pork, veal, or mutton, may be done the same way, and half
a pound of potatoes used instead of the rice, and as rations are served
out for three days, the whole of the provisions may be cooked at once,
as it will keep for some days this time of the year, and is easily
warmed up again.
N.B. For a regular canteen pan triple the quantity.
NO. 20.--RECEIPTS FOR THE FRYING-PAN.
Those who are fortunate enough to possess a frying-pan will find the
following receipts very useful:--Cut in small dice half a pound of solid
meat, keeping the bones for soup; put your pan, which should be quite
clean, on the fire; when hot through, add an ounce of fat, melt it and
put in the meat, season with half a teaspoonful of salt; fry for ten
minutes, stirring now and then; add a teaspoonful of flour, mix all
well, put in half a pint of water, let simmer for fifteen minutes, pour
over a biscuit previously soaked, and serve.
The addition of a little pepper and sugar, if handy, is an improvement,
as is also a pinch of cayenne, curry-powder, or spice; sauces and
pickles used in small quantities would be very relishing; these are
articles which will keep for any length of time. As fresh meat is not
easily obtained, any of the cold salt meat may be dressed as above,
omitting the salt, and only requires warming; or, for a change, boil the
meat plainly, or with greens, or cabbage, or dumplings, as for beef;
then the next day cut what is left in small dice--say four ounces--put
in a pan an ounce of fat; when very hot, pour in the following:--Mix in
a basin a tablespoonful of flour, moisten with water to form the
consistency of thick melted butter, then pour it in the pan, letting it
remain for one or two minutes, or until set; put in the meat, shake the
pan to loosen it, turn it over, let it remain a few minutes longer, and
serve.
To cook bacon, chops, steaks, slices of any kind of meat, salt or fresh
sausages, black puddings, &c. Make the pan very hot, having wiped it
clean, add in fat, dripping, butter, or oil, about an ounce of either;
put in the meat, turn three or four times, and season with salt and
pepper. A few minutes will do it. If the meat is salt, it must be well
soaked previously.
NO. 21.--SUET DUMPLINGS.
Take half a pound of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter
teaspoonful of pepper, a quarter of a pound of chopped fat pork or beef
suet, eight tablespoonfuls of water, mixed well together. It will form a
thick paste, and when formed, divide it into six or eight pieces, which
roll in flour, and boil with the meat for twenty minutes to half an
hour. Little chopped onion or aromatic herbs will give it a flavour.
_A plainer way, when Fat is not to be obtained._--Put the same quantity
of flour and seasoning in a little more water, and make it softer, and
divide it into sixteen pieces; boil about ten minutes. Serve round the
meat.
One plain pudding may be made of the above, also peas and rice pudding
thus:--One pound of peas well tied in a cloth, or rice ditto with the
beef. It will form a good pudding. The following ingredients may be
added: a little salt, sugar, pepper, chopped onions, aromatic herbs, and
two ounces of chopped fat will make these puddings palatable and
delicate.
BILL OF FARE FOR LONDON SUPPERS.
In introducing the subjoined Bill of Fare, applicable to the London
suppers, I must here repeat that which I have previously mentioned,
that my idea is far from replacing the dishes now so much in vogue
both at the “Albion,” Simpson’s in the Strand, Evans’ Cider
Cellars, and such-like places; but now and then a couple of dishes
taken from these receipts cannot fail to prove agreeable to the
partakers, without much interfering with the regular routine of the
nightly business of such establishments.
NO. 1.--PLAIN MUTTON CHOPS AND RUMP STEAKS.
Though almost anybody can boast of being able to cook a plain steak or a
chop, very few can say they can do them to perfection. First of all, to
obtain this important point, either the mutton or beef ought to be kept
till properly set, according to season; secondly, the chop especially is
more preferable when cut and beat, some time before cooking, so as to
set the meat and prevent its shrinking; it at all times requires a sharp
fire (the broiling City fires may be taken as an example, and the
continual red heat of the gridiron); lay your gridiron over a sharp
fire, two minutes after lay on your chop or steak, turn three or four
times; when half done, season highly with salt and pepper, and when
done, serve _immediately_, on a very hot dish. Ten minutes will do a
steak of 1½lb., and about six minutes a chop.
NO. 2.--RUMPSTEAK AND POTATOES.
Of all steaks, rumpsteaks are far more preferable than any other, not
excepting the fillet of beef, as the meat in England is so rich, while
in France they eat only the fillet of beef--that being the only eatable
steak of a French ox. Have your steak cut as even as possible, nearly an
inch thick, and weighing from about 1½lbs. to 2lbs.; broil it sharply
as described above, season when properly done, lay it on a very hot
dish, put on 2oz. or more of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 2), turn it
three or four times on the dish quickly, when a most delicious gravy
will be formed, then place about a pound of fried potatoes round it, and
serve. For smaller steaks, for cooking be guided by size.
_Ditto with Anchovy Butter_, of which use 2oz. in lieu of the maître
d’hôtel butter, and omit the potatoes.
_Same with Pimento Butter._
_Same with Shalot Butter_, well rubbing the dish prior to putting the
steak on it.
NO. 3.--MUTTON AND LAMB CUTLETS A LA BOUCHERE.
The word à la bouchere, in English, means the butcher’s wife’s plain
fashion, and at one time had only the merit of economy; but a real
gourmet, the illustrious Cambaceres, who lived in the time of the first
Empire, being served with this dish at a little country inn, while
travelling, discovered the correctness of the proverb that “the nearer
the bone the sweeter the meat,” and on returning to Paris introduced it
to the fashionable circle, and for a long period this exquisite
cotelettes d’agneaux de maison, or house-lamb cutlet, and the dainty and
justly celebrated cutlets de presalé, were figuring on all the
banqueting tables of the Paris gourmets in perfect _negligé_, being
dressed in the following unceremonious manner:--Take either a neck of
lamb or mutton, neither too fat nor too lean, chop the cutlets about six
inches in length, cutting them as usual, leaving a bone in each; flatten
them with the chopper, not trimming them at all, season them highly with
salt and pepper, broil them very quick, and serve hot. Lamb, mutton, and
veal cutlets may be done the same.
For plain cutlets with fried potatoes, cut them either à la bouchere _or
trim them_, and proceed as for rumpsteak.
_Ditto for Cutlets_ à la maître d’hôtel.
For relishing sauce, see List of Sauces.
NO. 4--LAMB AND MUTTON CUTLETS, SEMI-BOUCHERE.
Cut your cutlets from the neck, one inch thick; beat them flat with a
chopper without trimming them, roll them in flour, butter over; season
with salt, pepper, a little chopped shalot; broil on a sharp fire, turn
three or four times, and serve.
NO. 5.--RELISHING STEAK.
(Mutton, Veal, Pork, Chops and Cutlets, Fowls, Pigeons, Grilled Bones,
Kidneys, &c.)
Chop fine a tablespoonful of green pickled chillies: mix with two pats
of butter, a little mustard, a spoonful of grated horseradish; have a
nice thick steak, spread the steak on both sides with the above, season
with half a teaspoonful of salt, put on a gridiron on a sharp fire, turn
three or four times; put on a hot dish with the juice of half a lemon
and two teaspoonfuls of walnut ketchup, and serve. If glaze is handy,
spread a little over the steak.
Mutton, lamb, veal, pork, chops and cutlets may be done the same; as
well as kidneys; also grilled fowls, pigeons--the latter may be egged
and bread-crumbed. Proceed the same for cooking according to size. Any
of the above may be half done before rubbing in the Chili butter.
NO. 6.--FILLET DE BŒUF, PARISIAN FASHION.
Cut a piece of the fillet of beef crosswise, including some fat, the
thickness of an inch; beat it slightly flat with a chopper, set on a
gridiron, put it on a very sharp fire, turn it two or three times; when
half done, season with a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, quarter that
of pepper, put on a hot plate, rub over with an ounce of maître d’hôtel
butter (as No. 2); serve up with fried potatoes.
Mutton chops, veal chops, and lamb chops may be dressed similar.
NO. 7.--FILLET OF BEEF, SEMI-CHATEAUBRIANT.
Cut it double the thickness of the above, butter lightly over, set on
the gridiron on a slowish fire, turn several times; when half done,
place it nearer the fire; season with half a teaspoonful of salt,
quarter one of pepper, a little cayenne, and serve with sauce à la
Mussulman (as No. 17). Maître d’hôtel butter or anchovy butter may be
used instead; serve fried chipped potatoes round.
NO. 8.--CHOPS, SEMI-PROVENÇAL, OR MARSEILLES FASHION.
When the chop is half broiled, scrape half a clove of garlic and rub
over on both sides of the chop; serve with the juice of a lemon. For
semi-Provençal, the clove of garlic is cut in two, and the flat part is
placed at the end of a fork and rubbed on the chop.
NO. 9.--CHOP OR STEAK A LA SULTANA.
Add a tablespoonful of Sultana sauce in a dish to each pound of meat;
place in a dish and serve; when the steak is done, turn it in it three
or four times, and it will make a most delicious gravy.
NO. 10.--MUSHROOM KIDNEY SANDWICH.
Broil 3 plain kidneys à la Brochette to keep them flat. Broil also 6
large mushroom heads; well season with salt and pepper (cayenne if
approved of). A few minutes will do them; then rub a little fresh butter
inside the mushrooms; dish up each kidney between two mushrooms while
very hot, and serve.
If a large quantity is required, proceed thus--well butter a sautépan,
lay in 20 or more heads of large mushrooms just washed, season well with
salt and pepper; let stew for twenty minutes gently in an oven, or till
done; make your kidney sandwich as above, add a tablespoonful of the
gravy over, and serve. The same may be served on thin toast; a
tablespoonful of the Sultana Sauce to every half-dozen kidneys, make a
dish worthy an Epicurean. The stems of the mushrooms may be stewed and
served with the dish.
NO. 11.--MINCED SANDWICHES.
Cut in small thin slices some dressed ham, ox tongue, game, or poultry,
with a few pickled gherkins and olives, the whole in equal portions; mix
well together; butter the bread and spread some mustard over, place the
cut meat over the butter, cover over with the other slice, cut small,
and serve.
NO. 12.--KIDNEYS SAUTE, WITH SHERRY, PORT, OR CHAMPAGNE.
Cut three kidneys each in five pieces, put an ounce of butter in the
pan; when very hot, and beginning to smoke, add the kidneys; stir round
for two or three minutes with a spoon till set; add a teaspoonful of
flour, quarter ditto of salt, the third part of that of pepper; mix
well; add half a gill of broth, a small wineglass of either of the above
wines; if no broth, use water, adding a little glaze. A tablespoonful of
colouring (No. 15) is a great improvement to the appearance of the
sauce. Ox, calf, or pig’s kidneys may be dressed the same, following the
proportions according to the quantity made. All the above are extremely
good on toast, which would require a little more liquor. A few mushrooms
are an improvement. If brown sauce can be obtained, omit the flour and
broth. Do not let them boil; a few minutes will do them.
NO. 13.--SEMI-CURRIED KIDNEYS.
Take three kidneys, which forms a portion, make a small incision in the
fleshy part, so as to enable you to remove the outer skin; cut each in
five pieces crosswise, put some butter in a stewpan, salt, pepper, a
little chopped onions, give it a fry, add the kidneys, stir them for a
few minutes till set, put four tablespoonfuls of curry sauce (No. 9),
and serve. If no curry sauce, add a quarter of a teaspoonful of curry
powder, one of flour, and one gill of broth; serve with rice.
NO. 14.--KIDNEY TOAST.
Split the kidney in two, remove the sinews and outer skin, mince it up,
and then chop fine; place in a stewpan some chopped eschalot and
parsley, with a small piece of butter, and fry the same lightly; when
done, add a small spoonful of Sultana Sauce, a little flour, and boil
again; while boiling, mix in the chopped kidneys; add salt, pepper, and
nutmeg to taste.
Spread the composition upon slices of toast slightly buttered; mask them
up with bread-crumbs mixed with Parmesan cheese, place in a sharp oven
for ten minutes, brown them with the salamander, and serve quite hot.
NO. 15.--MUTTON, LAMB, OR VEAL CUTLETS EN PAPILLOTE, OR WRAPPED IN
PAPER. DITTO, QUARTER OF FOWLS AND HALF PIGEONS, DEVILLED.
Cut two or three veal or mutton cutlets half an inch thick, then put in
a sauté, or frying-pan, four tablespoonfuls of oil, season your chops
thoroughly with salt and pepper, cook them gently in the pan, turning
them several times; before they are quite done, take them off, add in;
mix with oil remaining in the pan two tablespoonfuls of fine chopped
onions, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, fry these gently on the
fire for a few minutes, stirring continually; when they become a little
yellowish, add a tablespoonful of flour, mix quick, then put in a pint
of broth, boil till forming a thick sauce, add salt and pepper in
proportion; put back the chops into the pan, simmer a few minutes,
turning them; cut some paper in the shape of a heart, large enough to
envelope one chop, oil it well, put a tablespoonful of the sauce on the
paper, then place on it a chop, then more sauce, and plait the paper
round the edge of the cutlet to inclose it; then place in the pan in a
hot oven, or broil slowly. These cutlets might be prepared the day
before using, and placed more conveniently in paper when cold.
NO. 16.--PORK CHOPS A LA TARTARE,
Which has one great charm--simplicity. It is seldom to be obtained, even
in Crim Tartary, and when it is, the animal is in no very nice
condition. When procurable in a first-class Tartar family, they are
dipped in vinegar for about an hour prior to being fried or broiled.
Thin slices of raw onions are eaten with the above, and a kind of
cucumber peculiar to Russia, and most delicious when properly pickled;
they are cut in slices with the onions very thinly, the chop is then
placed over a layer while very hot, and another layer placed over the
chop, until it forms a vegetable sandwich. Such is the dish so much
relished by our hospitable Tartar families.
NO. 17.--LAMB CHOPS A L’AFRICAINE.
Cut a lamb chop as usual, broil it very sharply, turning it continually;
when nearly done, season highly with salt and pepper, rub over with
chutnee (about a teaspoonful to each chop) on both sides, then broil
another minute and serve. Light melted butter with a chopped girkin
makes a good variation for such as veal, pork, and broiled fowls,
pigeons, and also for devilled poultry.
I must also observe that chutnee is excellent with all kinds of broiled
devils; a little curry-powder may be introduced.
LAMB CHOPS A LA PRINTANIERE.
Add to the maître d’hôtel butter (as No. 2) chopped tarragon and chervil
instead of parsley.
PORK CHOPS WITH PIMENTO BUTTER.
Plain broil, and rub over, in proportion, half an ounce to each chop.
Add two tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup on the dish.
NO. 18.--LAMB CHOPS A LA BOULANGERE.
This lady, the boulangère, or baker’s wife, was invented by a lady of
the French Court, in opposition to the masculine manners of the
butcher’s wife.
Cut and trim neatly, eight, ten, or twelve small lamb cutlets, enough
for a small entrée; season lightly with salt, pepper, and a little
cayenne; dip them gently in olive oil, then in the flour box, and broil
very gently on a slow fire; while doing put a gill of cream in a
stewpan, set it on the fire, and when boiling add in two ounces of fresh
butter, a tablespoonful of chopped chervil, the juice of half a lemon, a
little salt and pepper; stir quick till the butter is melted and it
forms a nice smooth sauce, then pour it over your cutlets and serve
quick.
NO. 19.--STEWED TRIPE.
Select two pounds of double tripe, cut in strips of a quarter pound
each, put in a clean stew-pan, add a pint of water, ditto of milk, two
teaspoonfuls of salt, half that of pepper, eight middling-sized onions
carefully peeled, which put in; set to boil rather fast, then simmer
till done, which will be in half an hour or rather more; turn out into a
deep dish or tureen, and serve.
NO. 20.--CURRIED TRIPE.
Make about a pint of curry sauce, as No. 9; cut each half-pound in four
pieces; warm gently in it for half an hour, and serve with rice.
NO. 21.--GRATIN TRIPE IN SHELL.
Add to the above 2 yolks of eggs; mix quick; having taken the stewpan
off the fire, stir quick; put in the scolloped shells, throw breadcrumbs
over a little butter, put in an oven, salamander the top, and serve.
NO. 22.--TRIPE LYONNAISE FASHION.
When any cold tripe remains; cut in thin slices about the thickness of
an inch square, mince 2 onions, put some butter, in proportion, in a
frying-pan, add in the onions, fry till they are partly done, add the
tripe, let fry for about 10 minutes, tossing them; season with salt and
pepper, three teaspoonfuls of vinegar to each 1lb., and serve. This is a
very favourite dish in Lyons and Paris, both amongst the gourmet and the
gourmand. Well dry the tripe on a cloth before frying; it will take 3
ounces of butter to the pound.
NO. 23.--GRILLED CHICKEN WITH SHARP SAUCE.
Prepare your chicken as for grill, oil it over slightly, season with
salt and pepper in proportion to size, then place it on a gridiron, on a
rather fierce fire. When ready done, put by degrees two tablespoonfuls
of Sultana Sauce over it, losing none of it. When done, have on a dish
an ounce of butter; pour over the butter another tablespoonful of sauce;
mix well, and after turning the chicken two or three times, serve it up.
For Relishing Sauce proceed the same, pouring half a pint of that sauce
over it, No. 12.
NO. 24.--BROILING OR UNIVERSAL DEVIL.
Any kind of bones which are to undergo the process of broiling ought not
to exceed a quarter of a pound each in weight, a deep incision being
made in the fleshy part. The same for game and poultry. Rub each piece
with the Mixture No. 70, the quantity according to palate, and broil
very sharply, turning the bones often.
Strong plain gravy may be served under all.
NO. 25.--SANDWICHES FOR EVENING PARTIES.
Chop fine some cold dressed ham--say about a quarter of a pound, put it
in a basin with a tablespoonful of chopped gherkins and a teaspoonful of
mustard, a little pepper or cayenne; put about 6oz. of butter in a
basin, and with a spoon stir quickly till it forms a kind of cream; add
the ham and seasoning, mix all well; have the sandwich bread cut in thin
slices. Have already cut, thinly intermixed with fat, either cold roast
beef, veal, lamb, mutton, poultry, fowl, pheasant, grouse, partridge,
&c., either of which lay evenly, and not too thick, on your bread;
season with a little salt and pepper, cover over with another piece of
bread; when your sandwich is ready, cut them in any shape you like, but
rather small and tastily, and serve. You may keep them in a cold place,
if not wanted, as they will keep good under cover for twelve hours.
Chopped tongue may be introduced instead of ham, in thin slices.
NO. 26.--LAMB’S FRY.
Cut in middling-sized pieces about 1lb. of lamb’s fry, fairly mixed; put
one quart of water in a stew-pan; when boiling, add in the fry, boil
fast for ten minutes, lay the fry on a cloth, dry it well, have some
fine bread-crumbs ready made, to which you add a teaspoonful of salt,
two of chopped parsley, a little grated nutmeg, break and beat one or
two eggs well, dip the fry in by pieces, roll them in the breadcrumbs,
and slightly beat with a knife, to make the breadcrumbs adhere to the
fry; have some fat or lard very hot, though not burning, ready in a
frying-pan, in which place your fry for three or four minutes, when
nicely coloured take off, and dish very hot on a napkin; serve with
either fried parsley or chervel, free from water, which have ready in a
wire colander; dip the colander in the fat, which will fry the parsley
in less than a minute. For lamb fry devilled, rub over with mixture
prior to using. See receipt No. 70. This I consider a light dish for
supper.
NO. 27.--MUTTON OR LAMB CHOPS A LA TURC.
Cut either thin, put on a dish, season with salt and pepper, mince an
onion; pick out 20 leaves of parsley, add over a little oil, rub the
chop in it well, let them soak in it two hours; plain broil sharply, and
serve. This is an imitation of the Turkish kybob.
NO. 28.--LOBSTER CURRY.
Make about a pint of curry sauce, No. 9, take the flesh of a
middle-sized lobster, which cut in neat slices, let them simmer for ten
minutes in the sauce; serve on a dish, on toast, or in the shell, or
bordered by rice. Boiled as No. 8 in Hospital Receipts.
NO. 29.--LOBSTER CURRY IN THE SHELL.
Add one or two raw yolks of eggs to the above receipt while boiling hot,
mix quickly; when the eggs are set, put the meat back in the shells,
cover the surface with bread crumbs, a few small pieces of butter on
each; put in the oven; when nicely browned, serve. By extracting the
meat from the body, tail, and claws, without breaking the shells, they
can be filled again with the preparation, and put together as a whole
lobster; or split the lobster lengthways and serve in two halves.
SCALLOPED LOBSTER.
Put in scallop in lieu of shell. Proceed the same.
NO. 30.--LOBSTER AU GRATIN FOR THOSE THAT DO NOT LIKE CURRY.
Chop a middling-sized onion, and put it in a stewpan with 2oz. of
butter; fry of a light brown, add a small tablespoonful of flour, stir
together, pour over half a pint of milk, season with half a teaspoonful
of salt, a quarter of pepper, and an eighth of cayenne, a little sugar,
nutmeg, and chopped parsley; boil a few minutes, till rather thick, add
the lobster meat, give a boil, add the yolk of an egg, mix quick, fill
the shells--egg and bread-crumb, put in an oven for ten minutes, brown
on the top with a hot salamander or shovel, and serve.
NO. 31.--LOBSTER CUTLETS.
Cut a lobster in dice, letting the flesh weigh about half a pound; when
done, put in a pan 2oz. of butter, 2 teaspoonfuls of chopped onions; put
all on the fire, fry for a minute or two, add 1 teaspoonful of flour;
mix well, stir in for a minute; add half a pint of milk; season with
salt, pepper, and one saltspoonful of cayenne, two teaspoonfuls of
chopped parsley; let all boil for a minute or two, stirring all the
time; add in your lobster, give it a boil; add two yolks of eggs; mix
quick, put on a dish to cool. When quite cool and firm, divide in six
parts, giving each the shape of a small cutlet; egg and breadcrumb
twice. Put a piece of the very small claw to the end of each cutlet, so
as to form a bone; fry for a few minutes, like you would a sole, in
plenty of fat; lay on a cloth, and serve on a napkin, with plenty of
fried parsley; you may adopt any shape you choose, if cutlets are too
troublesome, as you would a croquette. No sauce is requisite.
The lobsters for the two preceding receipts may be prepared, shaped, and
bread-crumbed hours before wanted.
NO. 32.--CRABS AU GRATIN IN THE SHELL.
Have the crab prepared as for plain, lay in the empty shell a layer of
the soft part, then a layer of American crackers or biscuit, grated,
then add the fleshy part of the crab over, on which pour a tablespoonful
of mushroom ketchup, cover it with slices of cold, hard eggs, cut
crosswise; season with a little salt, pepper, and cayenne; cover all
with the remainder of the soft part of the crab, make it even with a
knife; egg, and breadcrumb over, or more grated biscuit; put a few nuts
of butter on the top, set in an oven for twenty minutes or half an hour,
and serve very hot.
NO. 33.--STEWED OYSTERS ON TOAST.
Open a dozen of oysters, put them in a small stew-pan, add to them two
grains of black pepper, a little salt, butter, cayenne, and sugar; set
on the stove for a few minutes until set--say three or four minutes;
having only given them a slight boil, put in a piece of butter as big as
a walnut, which you have mixed with half a teaspoonful of flour, shake
the stew-pan round by the handle, to melt the contents, put it back on
the fire just to simmer, and serve on toast. A drop of cream is an
improvement. If not enough liquor add a drop of milk.
Over-stewed oysters are as bad as over-cooked kidneys. For a large
quantity, proceed the same. The only thing to be observed is, that the
oysters are properly set before serving, they being neither raw nor
overdone.
NO. 34.--OYSTERS STEWED AMERICAN FASHION.
Take a dozen large oysters in their liquor, bring them to a boil, add
salt, pepper, and a piece of butter about the size of a nutmeg, and half
a teaspoonful of chopped chervil, and serve with cracker biscuits.
NO. 35.--FRIED OYSTERS, NEW YORK WAY.
Take 12 large raw oysters, dip them in Indian meal, throw them into the
hot fat immediately, like you would fried fish, and serve as soon as
browned.
NO. 36.--OYSTER SOUP, NEW YORK WAY, FOR A PARTY OF FIVE PERSONS.
Take 50 oysters and the liquor, place them in a pan with salt, cayenne
pepper, and a teaspoonful of chopped chervil; when boiling, add a
_liason_ (or thickening) of 5 yolks of eggs, with a piece of butter the
size of an egg, and serve.
Should the oysters not give liquor sufficient, add water and salt, if
necessary. One-fourth of this quantity may, of course, be made.
NO. 37.--GAME FOR SUPPER.
In spite of the petite soupers de la Régence, in the early part of the
reign of Louis XV., when the gastronomic art was nightly unfolding its
luxurious delicacies before the illustrious guests of the Court of
France, game, dressed in numerous shapes, forming the most succulent
dishes, used to adorn the bills of fare of those nocturnal bacchanalian
repasts which had almost triumphed over the daily festive board, the
dinners then at Court being only a secondary consideration when compared
with the suppers. For my part, I much prefer the former, which, as I
have already mentioned, forms the focus of sociability; but when you
are compelled to sup late, why not partake of game, which is much
lighter food than solid meat, overdone kidneys, or oysters; for what can
be more relishing and palatable for supper than the remains of either
pheasant, grouse, partridge, &c., devilled or plain broiled, while plain
roast game is also highly recommendable for such meals.
NO. 38.--SOYER’S GROUSE AND BLACK GAME SALAD.
This dish is also very commendable and relishing. Roast a young grouse,
not overdone; when cold, cut in eight pieces; put in a salad bowl enough
salad for two persons, lay the pieces of grouse over with 2 or 4 hard
eggs cut lengthwise; make the sauce thin, put in a basin a tablespoonful
of finely-chopped shalot, 1 ditto of parsley, ditto of pounded white
sugar, the yolks of 2 raw eggs, a teaspoonful of salt, quarter one of
pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of Chili vinegar, 4 of oil; mix all together
with a spoon, whip half a pint of cream, which add carefully to your
mixture; it will then constitute a delicious salad sauce; pour over your
salad, and mix carefully. Pheasants and partridges, when properly kept,
are also very good.
NO. 39.--LOBSTER SALAD, FOR TWO PERSONS.
Take a middle-sized lobster, break the claw carefully, extract the tail
without splitting it, cut your lobster in fine, though large, slices,
crosswise, put some salad in a bowl in proportion for two, either coss
or cabbage lettuce, or endive, or mixed salad, have boiled 3 or 4 hard
eggs, cut crosswise when cold, then form a crown on your salad by
intermixing alternate layers of egg and lobster, placing the soft part
of the interior of the fish in the centre. Cucumber and beet-root may be
used instead of eggs. Then put into a basin a small teaspoonful of salt,
quarter ditto of pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 4 of oil, a little
sugar, stir well together, pour over your salad, which mix gently with a
spoon and fork, and serve; the addition of chopped parsley, tarragon,
and chervil, or chopped shalot, is an improvement.
NO. 40.--CRAB SALAD, WITH EGGS.
Place the soft part of the crab in a bowl, having made it into a pulp;
add to it the quantum of oil, vinegar, salt, pepper; mix all well
together, as above. If too thick, add half a gill of milk, to form a
thinnish sauce; put your salad in a bowl according to proportion, over
which put lightly the meat of the crab; pour your sauce over, having cut
four eggs lengthwise in quarters; toss it well, stir round, and serve as
above.
NO. 41.--NEW SALAD, TARTAR FASHION.
Prepare your salad, well washed and dried; (cabbage or coss lettuce are
preferable); boil 4 onions; when cold cut in thick slices; cut also 4
pickled cucumbers, Israelite fashion, put a layer of the salad at the
bottom, then a bed of cucumber and onion, and another of salad, at the
top; have 2 mild salt herrings, ready broiled, with all the bones
extracted; cut it in small square pieces, season with salt, pepper,
vinegar, and oil, in proportion, tossing all well together, as this plan
is preferable to using a spoon and fork.
NO. 42.--PLAIN SALAD, WITH ANCHOVIES.
Put your salad in a bowl, wash and shake as above; wash and scrape a
dozen of anchovies; bone them by splitting them up; have 2 hard eggs,
chopped fine; put them over the salad; chop about 2oz. of either
piccalilli, pickle, or plain gherkin. The above is for four persons;
then add salad enough for that number; season with a teaspoonful of
salt, a quarter that of pepper, 4 tablespoons of oil, 2 of vinegar; stir
well, but lightly, and serve. Coss and cabbage lettuce are preferable.
Any one who does not object to oil, 5 tablespoonfuls may be used to 2 of
the best French vinegar. For mixed salads proceed the same. Anchovies,
eggs, and gherkins may be omitted, and yet will make an excellent salad.
NO. 43.--ENDIVE SALAD.
Highly appreciated by French gourmets.
Wash quickly four heads of very white endive. The French is much
preferable to the English, and is imported in abundance to the London
markets. Why they should be washed quickly is, that if they remain in
the water any length of time they become as bitter as gall. Take off the
green leaves, if any; cut the stem off and the leaf in two when too
long, shake well in a cloth to dry, and put in your salad bowl, which
you have previously rubbed with a piece of garlic; add in your salad, a
teaspoonful of salt, quarter one of pepper, 5 tablespoonfuls of oil, 2
of vinegar; rub a piece of garlic on two crusts of bread, each about the
size of a walnut; add them to your salad, which you stir well for a few
minutes with a spoon and fork, and serve. The garlic in this salad, far
from being objectionable, gives only a slight flavour, to which no one
can object, but which, on the contrary, is highly appreciated by the
gourmet. Garlic may be either increased or diminished according to
taste.
NO. 44.--OMELETTES WITH FINE HERBS.
Six eggs will make a nice omelette for two persons for supper; add a
teaspoonful of salt, quarter ditto of pepper, break them carefully in a
basin, as a tainted egg will spoil all the rest; add three-quarters of a
tablespoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper, two of chopped parsley,
half a one of fine chopped onions; beat them well; add 2oz. of butter in
a nice clean and dry frying-pan, place it then on the fire, and when the
butter is very hot then pour in your eggs, which keep mixing quick with
a spoon until all is delicately set, then let it slip to the edge of the
pan, _en masse_, laying hold of the handle, raising it slantwise, which
will give an elongated form to the omelette; turning the edges, let it
set a minute, turn on a dish, and serve.
NO. 45.--OMELETTES WITH MUSHROOMS.
Add in a couple of middling-sized mushrooms, cut very thin, and proceed
as above.
NO. 46.--FOR BACON AND HAM OMELETTES.
Cut 2oz. of either in small dice, not too salt, fry two or three minutes
in the butter before putting in the eggs,--and proceed as above.
NO. 47.--OMELETTES WITH SPRUE GRASS.
Cut the sprue half an inch in length, plain boil them in salt and water
till done, add two tablespoonfuls to your eggs,--and proceed as above.
NO. 48.--OMELETTES WITH PARMESAN.
For Parmesan omelettes, put into your eggs two tablespoonfuls of grated
Parmesan cheese--Gruyère or any good dry English cheese will do as well.
NO. 49.--POACHED EGGS WITH CREAM.
Put in a small pan a pint of water, a teaspoonful of salt, four of
vinegar; when boiling break carefully in the pan two, three, or four
nice fresh eggs, simmer for four or five minutes, or till properly set
firm, but not hard; serve either on toast or on a plain dish. Put in a
small stewpan half a gill of cream, a little salt, pepper, and sugar;
when the cream is on the boil add an ounce of fresh butter, take off the
stewpan, toss it round till the butter is melted, pour over and serve.
Fried ham and bacon may be laid on toast, poached eggs placed over, and
served plain. None other but fresh eggs will poach; the quality may be
ascertained by holding them up to the candle; if the shell is spotted,
they are useless for poaching, though of use for other purposes.
NO. 50.--POACHED EGGS WITH MAITRE D’HOTEL BUTTER.
Put two ounces of maître d’hôtel butter in a hot stewpan, and stir round
till melted; pour over your eggs which you have placed on toast.
NO. 51.--POACHED EGGS, SEMI-CURRIED, WITH HAM OR BACON.
Proceed as No. 56, pouring a gill of curry sauce over.
NO. 52.--BATTERED EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS.
Put in a stewpan 2oz. of butter, break over four fresh eggs, add a
tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms, half a teaspoonful of salt, quarter
that of pepper. Set on the fire, and stir continually with a wooden
spoon till it forms a thickish consistency; have buttered toast on a
plate, pour your eggs over, and serve.
NO. 53.--BATTERED EGGS WITH SPRUE GRASS.
Add 2 tablespoonfuls of boiled sprue grass (as No. 47), and proceed as
above.
NO. 54.--HAM WITH SHALOTS, PARSLEY, AND CHERVIL.
Cut in small dice 1 oz. of clean cooked ham, put in your eggs, and cook
as above. A spoonful of either shalot, parsley, or chervil will vary
this dish.
NO. 55.--MIRRORED EGGS.
Put 1 oz. of butter into a small tin pan, spreading it all over, in it
crack 4 eggs without breaking the yolk if possible, season over with
salt and pepper, and small nuts of butter here and there; put in an oven
before the fire till set, and serve.
NO. 56.--EGGS AU MIROIR, WITH HAM OR BACON.
Cut the ham or bacon in thin slices, fry a few minutes in a pan, put on
your plate, break your eggs over, set in oven till set, and serve, and
proceed as above. The ham may be cut in thicker slices if preferred, but
will take rather longer cooking.
NO. 57.--EGGS WITH CHOPPED HAM OR TONGUE.
Cut 2oz. of dressed ham in small dice, butter the bottom of the plate or
dish, and place the ham upon it; break the eggs over, season, and
proceed as before.
NO. 58.--EGGS AND MUSHROOMS.
Wash, peel, and slice a few mushrooms, butter the dish thickly, spread
the mushrooms over, season with salt and pepper, and set the dish in the
oven till the mushrooms are done; break the eggs over and proceed as
before.
NO. 59.--EGGS AND TRUFFLES.
Wash, peel, and cut in very thin slices, a fresh truffle, butter the
dish, add a tablespoonful of sherry; salt and pepper; lay the slices of
truffles flat over the bottom of the dish, and put it in the oven a few
minutes; when boiled a minute or two, break the eggs over and cook as
usual. English truffles are excellent for this purpose.
NO. 60.--EGGS WITH SPRUE GRASS.
Boil about a quarter of a pint of sprue grass; butter the dish as usual,
spread the grass over, season with a little powdered sugar, salt, and
pepper; break the eggs over, place in the oven, and proceed as before.
NO. 61.--EGGS A LA BONNE FEMME.
Cut a middle-sized onion in dice, put it in a stewpan with a pat of
butter, and fry of a light brown; when done add a teaspoonful of
vinegar; butter the dish lightly, spread the onions over, season with
pepper and salt, and break the eggs over; put in the oven; when done
mask the eggs with fried bread-crumbs, and serve.
NO. 62.--CURRIED EGGS.
Boil three eggs for ten minutes, put them in cold water; when, cold,
shell, cut them in two lengthwise, and throw them into a curry sauce,
give them a boil, dish them on the flat side in the form of a star; this
will make a very good and pretty dish. Eggs boiled too hard are very
unwholesome, especially for supper; done this way they will be perfect;
they may be put entire in the sauce, and cut when dished up; they will
take the flavour of the curry just the same.
NO. 63.--EGGS A LA TRIPE, OR ONION SAUCE.
Boil 3 eggs as above, cut them in slices, and put in a sauce you have
prepared thus:--
Cut 2 middle-sized onions in slices, put them in a stewpan with an ounce
of butter, and fry them till done without taking colour; add a small
tablespoonful of flour, and moisten with a teacupful of milk: season
with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, give a boil, toss the eggs up in the
sauce, and serve. The same may be served with tomato sauce.
NO. 64.--EGGS WITH TOMATO SAUCE.
Proceed as for curried eggs, using tomato sauce instead of curry.
NO. 65.--RAREBIT A LA SOYER, WITH SHERRY OR CHAMPAGNE.
Cut half a pound of rich cheese in small dice; put in a stewpan 2 pats
of butter with a teaspoonful of mixed Durham mustard, a little salt,
half a teaspoonful of pepper, one wineglass of sherry or champagne; put
on a slow fire, stir gently with a wooden spoon till properly melted,
though not stringy, which might occur if turned too quickly; have a nice
toast half an inch thick done at the last minute, pour your cheese over
and serve. Leaving it a few minutes in an oven is an improvement.
NO. 66.--FRIED POTATOES.
Fried potatoes being much lighter for supper than baked ones, would be
an excellent introduction to the London supper bill of fare. I shall
also observe that a potato when well fried does not retain a particle of
grease, and therefore is not rich, or likely to be so, when properly
done. Where a quantity are required, put in a wide stew-pan, three or
four pounds of either lard, beef, or mutton fat;--see receipt No. 20,
page 544, how to clarify the two last. Set it upon the fire, and while
heating, peel a pound of potatoes about the size of a large egg, cut
them in thin slices crosswise upon a clean cloth, to absorb the
moisture, taking care they are well separated; when the fat is hot, “but
not burning,” which you will ascertain by its giving out a light smoke,
or else dip your finger in cold water and let a drop fall in the fat--if
it hisses it is then at a proper heat; throw in the potatoes, and keep
moving them with a skimmer to prevent them sticking together; in about
three or four minutes they will be cooked and well fried, of a pale gold
colour; take; them out upon a cloth, sieve, or colander; sprinkle
scientifically with salt, and serve plain, or upon a napkin, or round a
steak, fillet of beef, &c.
NO. 67.--FRIED POTATOES WITH MAITRE D’HOTEL BUTTER.
While in the colander, and just having been fried, add to a portion of
potatoes about half an ounce of maître d’hôtel butter, toast till
melted, and serve either plain or round steak.
NO. 68.--FRIED POTATOES WITH CAYENNE PEPPER.
When just done throw half a saltspoonful of cayenne over them, toast
them, and serve.
NO. 69.--CHIPPED OR RIBBONED POTATOES.
Cut some potatoes crosswise about the thickness of an inch, then peel
them thinly in ribbons, fry as above--they will require a little longer
doing; when they are crisp take them out, place them on a clean cloth,
and sprinkle them over with salt, cayenne, and black pepper to fancy,
and serve.
NO. 70.--SOYER’S UNIVERSAL DEVIL MIXTURE,
Which will be found applicable to all devilled food.
To devil the same, rub each piece over with the following mixture,
laving made a deep incision in any article of food that may be subjected
to this Mephistophelean process. Put in a bowl a good tablespoonful of
Durham mustard, which mix with four tablespoonfuls of Chili vinegar; add
to it a tablespoonful of grated horseradish, two bruised shalots, a
teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of cayenne, ditto of black pepper, and
one of pounded sugar, two teaspoonfuls of chopped chillies, if handy;
add the yolks of two raw eggs,; take a paste-brush, and after having
slightly seasoned each piece with salt, rub over each piece with the
same, probing some in the incisions. First broil slowly, and then the
last few minutes as near as possible the Pandemonium fire. The yolks may
be omitted.
NO. 71.--A PLAINER WAY FOR THE MILLION.
Mix the mustard with plain vinegar; add one half more cayenne; use the
same quantity of salt, pepper, and sugar; use onions instead of shalots.
The liquor of pickles is even preferable to vinegar.
Proceed as above for grilling; remains of meat, game, and poultry are
very relishing when done as above, especially for an early luncheon or a
late supper.
NO. 72.--CHICKEN, AMERICAN FASHION.
Have a small fowl ready for grilling, season with salt, pepper, and a
little cayenne; beat an egg well, rub it over; mix some American grated
crackers with maize, roll it in and beat it with a knife to make it
adhere to the chicken; put it on a gridiron, and when hot through put
small nuts of butter here and there; broil to a very nice colour and
serve 2 doz. stewed oysters, as No. 33, on toast, which place under the
fowl. Any sharp sauce instead of oysters will do for this dish.
NO. 73.--HERRING A LA ROB ROY.
Well wash and clean a red herring, wipe it dry and place it in a
pie-dish, having cut off the head, and split it in two up the back; put
a gill or two of whiskey over the herring, according to size, hold it on
one side of the dish, so that it is covered with the spirit, set it
alight, and when the flame goes out the fish is done.
NO. 74.--COLD ASPARAGUS SALAD, WHILE IN SEASON.
A very refreshing and delicious dish for supper.
When this vegetable is in season, put in a soup plate a tablespoonful of
vinegar, two of oil, quarter teaspoonful of salt, half that of pepper,
mix together, a little chopped parsley may be introduced, and dip each
head of cold grass as you eat them in the mixture.
NO. 75.--NEW POTATO SALAD, GERMAN FASHION.
Boil some rather waxy potatoes, peel when just done, cut in slices, put
them in a bowl, add to every pound one tablespoonful of vinegar, two of
oil, half a teaspoonful of salt, quarter that of pepper toss up well,
and eat it cold. Add a little chopped parsley.
NO. 76.--NEW POTATO SALAD, FRENCH HARICOT, AND HARICOT BEANS.
Have your vegetables properly cooked, and when cold put a pound of
French or the other beans in a bowl, season with salt, pepper, oil,
vinegar, as above, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; toss well, and
serve. The French beans only require to be boiled in a plain way. The
French haricots--put a pint in two quarts of cold water, add one ounce
of butter, and boil very gently for two hours, or till tender, let it
get cold and make your salad. For lentils proceed the same as haricots.
NO. 77.--BOUILLABAISSE ANGLICISED.
The fish I would recommend in England for that far-famed dish would be
red mullet, whiting, and barble, or a small turbot, all cut up
crosswise, in pieces of about two ounces to a quarter of a pound each;
slice up two large onions, place them in a good-sized stewpan, large
enough to contain your fish all at the bottom--a flat wide pan is
preferable. Add to this two tablespoonfuls of olive oil, and fry the
onions of a pale brown colour; next place the pieces of fish in the pan,
cover them with warm water, only just to the depth of the contents. To
each pound of fish, sprinkle about half a teaspoonful of salt, or a
little more, a quarter that quantity of pepper, half a bay leaf, the
flesh of half a lemon, without pips or rind, cut in dice; cut also two
tomatos in dice, having extracted the seed, add a glass or two of sherry
or light wine, a few peppercorns, and half a clove of garlic, instead of
four, as done at Marseilles, as mentioned at page 61; set on a fierce
fire, and boil very fast from ten to twelve minutes. By this time the
liquor should be reduced to a third of its original quantity; add a
small portion of saffron, according to taste, a tablespoonful of fresh
chopped parsley; allow all to boil one minute longer, and remove from
the fire, for it is then ready for dishing up. (For which process see
page 61.)
_Second-class Bouillabaisse._--Use gurnet, plaice, soles, &c.
Bouillabaisse may be made also of fresh-water fish, such as perch,
tench, trout, and pike, proceeding precisely as above; if the broth is
required for an invalid, omit the wine and some of the seasoning,
according to the order of the doctor.
NO. 78.--SOYER’S CRIMEAN CUP A LA WYNDHAM.
Thinly peel the rind of half an orange, put it into a bowl with a
tablespoonful of crushed sugar, and macerate with the ladle for a
minute; then add one large wine-glass of Maraschino, half one of Cognac,
half one of Curaçoa. Mix well together, pour in two bottles of
soda-water, and one of champagne, during which time work it up and down
with the punch ladle, and it is ready.
Half a pound of Wenham Lake ice, if to be procured, is a great
improvement.
NO. 79.--SOYER’S BALAKLAVA NECTAR.
Thinly peel the rind of half a lemon, shred it fine, and put it in a
punch-bowl; add 2 tablespoonfuls of crushed sugar and the juice of 2
lemons, the half of a small cucumber sliced thin with the peel on; toss
it up several times, then add 2 bottles of soda-water, 2 of claret, 1 of
champagne, stir well together and serve.
NO. 80.--PIERCE’S CLARET AND CHAMPAGNE CUP A LA BRUNOW.
This gentleman, whose excellent and useful book I have quoted in the
body of this work, has favoured me with the following claret and
champagne cup, which ought, from its excellency, to be called, the
nectar of the Czar, as it is so highly appreciated in Russia, where for
many years it has enjoyed a high reputation amongst the aristocracy of
the Muscovite empire.
To three bottles of claret, take two-thirds of a pint of Curaçoa, one
pint of sherry, half ditto of brandy, two wine-glasses of ratafia, three
oranges, and one lemon, cut in slices; some sprigs of green balm, ditto
of borage, a small piece of rind of cucumber, two bottles of German
Seltzer-water, three ditto of soda-water; stir this together, and
sweeten with capillaire or pounded sugar until it ferments, let it stand
one hour, strain it, and ice it well; it is then fit for use.
The same for Champagne Cup.--Champagne instead of claret; noyeau instead
of ratafia.
This quantity is for an evening party of forty persons. For a smaller
number reduce the proportions.
SAUCES.
1.--MELTED BUTTER.
Put 2oz. of butter in a stew-pan holding about a quart, and 2oz. of
flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper; mix together
with a spoon till forming a thick paste, add a pint of cold water, place
all on a fire, stir continually; take the pan off the fire when it
simmers; add another of fresh butter in it, stir till melted; it is then
ready for use. A little grated nutmeg and a drop of vinegar is an
improvement. This sauce being the base of so many others, requires
attention in making, and as flour will sometimes be stronger than at
others, and likely to make it too thin or too thick, take for a rule
that the proper thickness when done ought to form a transparent coating
over the back of the spoon.
2.--BEURRE A LA MAITRE D’HOTEL, OR HOTEL KEEPER’S BUTTER.
Put on a plate a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a quarter of a
spoonful of salt, ditto of pepper, two of chopped parsley, the juice of
a middle-sized lemon (if no lemon, use vinegar), and a little grated
nutmeg; mix well together, and keep in a cool place till required. This
is excellent with kidneys and all broiled meats. Nutmeg may be omitted.
3.--ANCHOVY BUTTER, OR BEURRE D’ANCHOIX.
Take 6 anchovies from a bottle, scrape and wash them, pound and pulp
them, or bruise them on a board; mix 6oz. of fresh butter, pass through
a sieve, and use when required. Keep the sauce in a cold place.
4.--CHERVIL AND TARRAGON BUTTER.
To 2oz. of butter add a teaspoonful of chopped chervil and tarragon; add
salt, pepper, a little cayenne, 1 tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, or
the juice of half a lemon.
5.--PIMENTO, OR CHILI BUTTER.
For 2oz. of butter put a teaspoonful of chilies chopped fine, 1 of
parsley, a scrape of garlic as large as a pea; add to it half a
teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, and the juice of half a lemon; mix
well.
6.--SHALOT BUTTER.
Put a quarter of a pound of butter and a teaspoonful of chopped shalot
in a dish, a little cayenne, salt, pepper, half a teaspoonful of
mustard, the juice of a lemon; mix together.
7.--BLACK BUTTER, OR BEURRE NOIR.
Put 2oz. of butter in a stewpan, set it on the fire till it acquires a
brownish colour, throw in about 20 parsley leaves, 2 tablespoonfuls of
vinegar, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of pepper; boil together
one minute. It is also excellent with boiled mackerel and skate.
8.--ONION SAUCE, OR SAUCE A LA TRIPE.
Peel and cut 6 onions in slices, put them in a stewpan with 2oz. of
butter, a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, half one of pepper; place
on a slow fire to simmer till in pulp, stirring now and then, to prevent
getting brown; add a tablespoonful of flour, a pint of milk, and boil
till of a proper thickness. This sauce should be a little thicker than
melted butter.
9.--CURRY SAUCE.
Peel and cut 2 middling-sized onions in slices, 1 apple, cut in dice,
and an ounce of bacon; put them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter;
put it on the fire and fry gently for five or six minutes; add 3
teaspoonfuls of flour, 1 of curry powder, moisten with a pint and a half
of milk, add half a teaspoonful of salt, and 1 of sugar; boil till
rather thick; pass through a sieve, and serve with any article requiring
curry sauce.
10.--BREAD SAUCE.
Put in a stewpan 4 tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, a quarter of one of
salt, an eighth of pepper, 6 pepper corns; peel a small onion, cut it in
four, add it to the crumbs, with half a pint of milk and half an ounce
of butter. Boil for ten minutes, and you will have an excellent sauce.
Add more milk if requisite.
11.--MAITRE D’HOTEL SAUCE.
Mix 2oz. of maître d’hôtel butter to half a pint of hot melted butter
sauce, and shake, and when the butter is melted it is ready.
12.--RELISHING SAUCE,
For broiled bones, fowls, meat, fish, &c. &c.
Put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan, with 1 of Chili
vinegar, 1 of common vinegar, 3 of water, 2 of mushroom ketchup, 2 of
Harvey’s sauce, 1 of anchovies; add to it a pint of melted butter, as
receipt No. 1; let it simmer until it adheres to the back of the spoon;
add half a teaspoonful of sugar; it is then ready for use. The many
ingredients found in this are always to be obtained in every tavern.
13.--TOMATO SAUCE.
Cut in dice 2oz. of lean ham or bacon, put either in a stewpan, with
2oz. of butter, a sliced onion, a few sprigs of parsley, 4 peppercorns,
and 1 bay-leaf; fry on the fire till getting slightly brown; add in then
about 2lb. of fresh tomatoes, cut across, lightly extract the seed; let
them stew about fifteen minutes, or till in pulp; add to it 2
tablespoonfuls of flour; mix well; then about a pint of broth or milk, a
teaspoonful of salt, quarter that of pepper, one of sugar, a sprinkle of
cayenne, boil all ten minutes; pass through a sieve or colander; put
them back again in the stewpan; give another boil, it is then ready for
use when required. A tablespoonful of ketchup may be added; also a piece
of glaze, if handy.
14.--SEMI-SULTANA.
Add 3 tablespoonfuls to 1 pint of thin melted butter; boil a few
minutes; it is then ready.
15.--PICCALILLY SAUCE.
Cut in slices, or in small dice, 2oz. of mixed pickles, called
piccalilly, add it to half a pint melted butter, with 2 tablespoonfuls
of liqueur, and use when required.
16.--BROWNING FOR SAUCES.
Put half a pound of brown sugar into an iron saucepan, and melt it over
a moderate fire for about twenty-five minutes, stirring it continually,
until quite black, but it must become so by degrees, or too sudden a
heat will make it bitter, then add two quarts of water, and in ten
minutes the sugar will be dissolved. Bottle for use.
17.--NEW MAYONNAISE SAUCE.
Put a quarter of a pint of melted aspic or savoury jelly upon ice in a
stew-pan, which keep whisking until becoming a white froth, then add
half a pint of salad oil and six spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, by
degrees--first oil and then vinegar, continually whisking until it forms
a white smooth sauce, to all appearance like a cream; season with half
a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, and a little sugar;
whisk it a little more, and it is ready to serve; it is usually dressed
pyramidically over the article it is served with. The advantage of this
sauce (which is more delicate than any other) is, that you may dress it
to any height you like, and it will remain so for a long time; if the
temperature is not too hot, it will remain hours without melting or
appearing greasy.
NO. 18.--MUSSULMAN SAUCE.
Put in a pint stew-pan two yolks of eggs, a quarter of a pound of
butter, a quarter teaspoonful of salt, half that of pepper, the juice of
a middling-sized lemon; put on a slow fire, and stir round quickly till
the whole forms a thick rich sauce; it is then ready for using. This
must be done extremely quick, else it will turn to oil; two minutes will
do it. If too thick, add a drop of milk.
19.--TOMATOES, AMERICAN WAY.
Cut the tomatoes in two, leaving the seeds and juice in; cut a
middling-sized onion in dice, pass it in butter till slightly browned;
add the tomatoes, salt, pepper, a teaspoonful of vinegar, and sufficient
bread-crumbs to thicken them; stew gently for twenty minutes, and serve
with roast meat or poultry.
_Bread Crumbs._--Take a piece of the crumb of a stale loaf, not too
hard, put it in a cloth, bruise it with your hand well, till it falls in
crumbs; pass it through either a wire sieve or colander, and use when
required.
20.--HOW TO MELT FAT.
Take 3 or 4lbs. of either beef or mutton suet, cut in small dice; put in
a stewpan, with half a pint of water; place on the fire to melt,
stirring now and then; when the suet turns to a light yellow colour,
pour it through a colander, which you have already placed in a basin,
press the suet with the back of a spoon to extract the oil of the fat;
it is then ready for use, and will keep a long time without spoiling;
you may fry many times with the same.
21.--CHOPPING OF HERBS, PARSLEY, CHERVIL, &C.
This may appear a very simple thing to do well, yet it is often done
badly, by which the flavour is lost. The herbs should be well washed and
dried, and then the leaves taken in the left hand, pressing upon them
with your fingers, and chop as fine as possible, not by placing the
point of the knife on the board, and raising it and letting it fall, but
with a good sharp cut, so that they are cut, not pressed. Onions should
be peeled, and cut in halves lengthwise, and then with a thin knife cut
each half in slices, leaving them joined at the root; again cut into
slices contrariwise, and then from top to bottom; thus having cut into
very small squares, chop it with both hands with the knife. You may also
wash them. When half-chopped, press them in a cloth, and chop them still
finer, and use when required. Proceed the same for shalots.
RECEIPTS FOR THE NEEDY.
Having promised a friend, when first I commenced this work, that I would
insert in its pages a number of receipts for the poor, I fulfil my
obligation by re-publishing some receipts which I first brought out in
the year of the famine, 1847; and with all the intention I had of still
further simplifying them I find their improvement an impossibility. I
have, however, withdrawn some receipts of dishes, which were only
applicable to that period, and I have at the same time introduced a few
new ones, which I feel confident will tend to the comfort of humble
families.
In making the receipts Nos. 1 and 2 public, I did not suppose that they
would meet with the entire approbation of the nation, particularly by
those who imagine that nothing can be good except plenty of animal food
is used for the subsistence of man. I shall not enter into a culinary
digression to prove it, but I am so satisfied of the _failure_ of the
quantity of nourishment generally obtained by those who cannot make
anything good, even with plenty, for want of having the practical
judgment, that I make bold to affirm, that the little animal substance I
recommend, if closely followed, will produce all the nourishment
requisite when amalgamated in the way described.
As regards the peelings and ends of vegetables which I use in my
receipts, it is a well-known fact, that the exterior of every vegetable,
roots in particular, contains more flavour than the interior of it;
which is my reason for recommending only the washing well of those
vegetables before they are cut for use, thereby increasing the vegetable
produce of the country, and using that which has hitherto only increased
the “_malaria_” of our courts and alleys by its decomposition.
Having thus explained my reasons, I now give publicity to my receipts
for making soups and other dishes in this form; which I trust will prove
useful to the benevolent and the whole laborious and industrious
population of the county, and produce economy in all charitable
institutions, and comfort in every cottage.
Almost all the productions of nature can be made available, and produce
wholesome and nutritious food for man. The following is a short list,
taking them in rotation, according to the quantity of nutriment they
contain:--Beef, mutton, venison, pork, veal, lamb, hare, rabbits, bacon,
lard, dripping, butter, oil: _of farinaceous substances_,[38] Indian
corn, wheat, rice, barley, rye, buck-wheat, oats, peas, beans, lentils:
of _vegetables and roots_--yams, potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes,
parsnips, turnips, carrots, mangel wurzel, onions, leeks, green peas,
cauliflowers, celery, kelp, Irish moss, dillisk, French beans, greens,
spinach, sorrel, salads of all kinds: _of condiments_--as salt, pepper,
cayenne, curry, chilies, mustard, allspice, mace, cloves, ginger,
cinnamon, &c.: _of herbs_--savory, parsley, mint, thyme, marjoram,
basil, bay-leaf, and all sorts, both culinary and medicinal, or their
essences, all of which, when properly blended with food, add to its
nourishing qualities; but the grand secret is, to obtain from the above
all the nutriment they possess, which is done by following my receipts,
and reducing the animal and vegetable substances to a glaze, and mixing
it with the farinaceous, and thereby obtaining a palatable and agreeable
food, and economizing the productions of nature to an immense extent;
for, by the system at present adopted, more than fifty per cent. of the
animal and vegetable productions are lost, and the nutriment from the
farinaceous ingredients is rendered less, in consequence of being
unpalatable. In my visits to the different charitable institutions of
this city, I have been surprised at the want of knowledge manifested in
making of soups. In some parishes, I found 100 pounds of meat, cut into
pieces of a quarter of a pound each, put into 100 gallons of water, at
twelve o’clock of one day, to be boiled until twelve o’clock the next
day; by such proceedings the osmazome of the meat is lost by evaporation
from the boiler, and only the gelatine and fibrine is left; the former
has been proved by a medical board, instituted at Paris, for the purpose
of inquiring into the subject, to contain no nutriment whatever, and the
latter contains about the same as a piece of dry wood. What would be
said of a cook who would put a quarter of a pound of meat, or even a
piece weighing thirty pounds, to roast before a large fire for
twenty-four hours? What nutriment would it contain at the end of that
period? My principle is easily illustrated by putting twelve onions into
a gallon of water, and boiling them for as many hours; no smell arises
from it; but cut the half of one, and fry it, and the perfume will be
diffused over the whole house: thus I extract the aroma of every
ingredient which I employ, and any one carefully following the receipts
will produce a palatable and nourishing food.
The old plan of soaking farinaceous ingredients is not bad, but in many
instances it cannot be practised, in which case I would recommend that
peas be put into soft boiling water,[39] and that the ebullition does
not cease until the peas are reduced to a pulp. Indian meal must also be
put into boiling water, and be well boiled for two hours. Rice and
barley may be put into cold water, and be boiled until they can be
easily mashed between the fingers; the length of time depends upon
their quality.--All kinds of food made of farinaceous ingredients, as
Indian meal, peas, rice, &c., increase in quantity when made the day
previous, and require more water when warmed up.
It will be perceived that I have omitted all kinds of spice except in
those dishes which are intended expressly for them, as I consider they
only flatter the appetite and irritate the stomach, and make it crave
for more food; my object being not to create an appetite but to satisfy
it; and when those dishes in which spice is introduced are given to the
poor, it should only be done by the advice of the medical man; but in
those cases where they have been accustomed to have them, they must be
reduced by degrees until their taste is brought round to that point most
conducive to health.
NO. 1.--FOR TWO GALLONS.
Two ounces of dripping 0½
Quarter of a pound of solid meat, at 4d. per lb. (cut
into dice one inch square) 1
Quarter pound of onions, sliced thin
Quarter pound of turnips; the peel will do, or one
whole one cut into small dice 1
Two ounces of leeks; the green tops will do, sliced
thin
Three ounces of celery
Three quarters of a pound of common flour 1
Half a pound of pure barley, or one pound of Scotch 1½
Three ounces of salt }
Quarter of an ounce of brown sugar } 0¼
Fuel 0¾
Two gallons of water 0
--
6
I first put two ounces of dripping into a saucepan (capable of holding
two gallons of water), with a quarter of a pound of leg of beef without
bones,[40] cut into square pieces of about an inch; and two
middling-sized onions, peeled and sliced; I then set the saucepan over a
coal fire, and stirred the contents round for a few minutes with a
wooden (or iron) spoon until fried lightly brown. I had then ready
washed the peeling of two turnips, fifteen green leaves or tops of
celery, and the green part of two leeks; (the whole of which, I must
observe, are always thrown away.) Having cut the above vegetables into
small pieces, I threw them into the saucepan with the other ingredients,
stirring them occasionally over the fire for another ten minutes; then
added one quart of cold water, and three quarters of a pound of common
flour, and half a pound of pearl barley, mixing all well together; I
then added seven quarts of hot water, seasoned with three ounces of
salt, and a quarter of an ounce of brown sugar, stirred occasionally
until boiling, and allowed it to simmer very gently for three hours; at
the end of which time I found the barley perfectly tender. The above
soup has been tasted by numerous noblemen, members of parliament, and
several ladies who have lately visited my kitchen department, and who
have considered it very good and nourishing.
This soup will keep several days when made as above described; but I
must observe, not to keep it in a deep pan, but in rather a flat vessel,
where the air could act freely upon it. Stir it now and then, until
nearly cold: or otherwise the next day it will be in a state of
fermentation: this does not denote the weakness of the soup, because the
same evil exists with the very strongest of stock, or sauce, if not
stirred, or if confined in a warm place--(a fact known to every
first-rate cook).
The expenses make it come to three farthings per quart in London; but,
as almost everything can be had at less cost in the country, the price
of this soup will be still more reduced. In that case a little
additional meat might be used, and by giving away a small portion of
bread or biscuit, better support would be given to the poor at a
trifling cost, and no one, it is to be hoped, hereafter, would hear of
the dreadful calamity of starvation.
The same for one hundred gallons, to be made in the boilers, such as are
given by the different relief committees, or in any other vessel, either
iron or copper, in general use.
Twelve pounds of solid meat, at 4d. per lb., cut into
pieces one inch square, or sixteen pounds with
bones, at 3d. per lb. 4 0
Three pounds two ounces of dripping 1 0
Twelve pounds of onions, sliced thin 0 8
Six pounds of leeks, ditto }
Six pounds of celery, ditto } 3 1
Eight pounds of turnips, washed only, and cut into }
half an inch square }
Thirty-seven pounds and a half of flour, seconds 7 0
Twenty-five pounds of pearl barley previously
soaked 6 9
Nine pounds of salt 0 3
One pound seven ounces of sugar 0 9
--------
£1 1 8
Have ready a spatula, or a piece of board the shape of a cricket-bat,
about six inches wide, tapering towards the top as a handle (which must
be from one foot and a half to two feet above the surface of the
vessel), to stir with; take twelve pounds of solid meat, or sixteen
pounds with the bones (legs or clods of beef are excellent for the
purpose, but any kind of edible meat, from beef to doe venison will do),
cut in pieces about one inch square; put the dripping[41] in the
boiler; light the fire; when the fat is melted, add the onions: fry ten
minutes, stirring it all the time; add the vegetables and the meat; fry
for twenty minutes, or until a thick glaze is produced; then add the
salt and sugar, and four gallons of cold water; then add the flour; keep
stirring quickly, until quite smooth; add the barley, and fill by
degrees with hot water;[42] boil for three hours, or until the barley is
quite tender, and serve.[43]
In case either the barley or rice does not produce the thickness
required (as those ingredients may differ in quality), then add, if too
thin, a few pounds of flour or oatmeal, previously mixed with cold
water, to make it in a liquid batter, and pour it in when boiling about
twenty minutes before serving it out. But the proper thickness is easily
ascertained when the soup hangs lightly on the back of the spatula or
ladle, and near the consistence of a thin stirabout.
NO. 2.--FOR TWO GALLONS.
Quarter of a pound of beef, at 4d., cut into pieces of
one inch square 1
Two ounces of dripping, or melted suet 0½
Quarter of a pound of turnips or carrots, cut into dice
half an inch square 0¼
Four drops of essences 0¼
One and a half pound of maize flour 3
Three ounces of salt }
Quarter ounce of brown sugar } 0¼
One teaspoonful of black pepper, ground fine }
Fuel 0¾
--
6
Take two ounces of either dripping, American lard, or suet, to which add
the turnips or carrots; fry for ten minutes, add one quart of cold water
and the meal, well mixing, and moisten by degrees with seven quarts of
hot water; boil for two hours, and season with three ounces of salt, one
quarter ounce of brown sugar, one teaspoonful of black pepper, _two
drops_ of essence of garlic, _one drop_ of essence of mint, one drop of
essence of celery; stir quickly, and serve directly.
RECEIPT NO. 3.
No. 2. 6
As No. 2--and add one pound of potatoes 1
--
7
For those who have the chance of procuring a few potatoes once a week,
they may be used with advantage in the following manner:--
Having prepared the soup according to Receipt No. 2, when nearly done,
wash a pound of potatoes, pick out the black spots, if any, and cut them
in very small dice; put them into the soup to boil for twenty minutes,
or a little longer, until done, and the soup is ready, and will strongly
taste of potato; the short time of ebullition preserving all the aroma
of that inconstant root.
Having promised to make my receipts public, for the benefit of the
laborious classes of society, as well as for the poor, I think that if a
man could treat his family once a week with a food called potato soup,
each member of it, who had previously fed on that root, and who are
_now_ nearly deprived of that food, would worship the day of the week
when such a luxury should be displayed on their humble table.
RECEIPT NO. 4.
Quarter of a pound of bacon 1½
One ounce of dripping 0¼
Quarter of a pound of onions }
Quarter of a pound of turnips or carrots }
Two ounces of leeks and celery } 1
Quarter ounce of mint, shred fine }
Pound and a quarter of yellow peas 3½
Half-pound of common flour 1
Two ounces and a half of salt }
Half ounce of sugar } 0¼
--
7½
Have a quarter of a pound of fat bacon[44] cut into dice, peel and slice
two good-sized onions, or three small ones, and put both into a stewpan,
with one ounce of dripping; fry them gently until lightly brown, then
add two ounces of turnips, two ounces of carrots, and one ounce of
leeks, and one ounce of celery; cut them thin and slanting (but, as I
have before observed, any kind of vegetable will answer the purpose, if
the same proportion is used); fry for ten minutes, and fill up with
seven quarts of water, and, when boiling, add a pound and a quarter of
split peas, and let them simmer for two or three hours, until reduced to
a pulp, which depends on the quality of the pea; then add two ounces of
salt, half an ounce of sugar, quarter of an ounce of mint, mix one half
pound of flour in twelve ounces of water, to a thin batter, pour into
the soup, stir it well, boil one quarter of an hour, and serve.
NO. 5.--MEAGRE PEA SOUP.
This is the same as the former, with the exception that the bacon and
dripping are omitted, and oil or butter used in their stead. Buttermilk
could with advantage be used; in which case, add three ounces of salt.
Although this food is entirely deprived of animal substance, yet the
farinaceous ingredients will act generously on the digestive organs,
particularly to a stomach which has suffered from want of food.
NO. 6.--THE FISHERMAN’S FOOD FOR THE COAST.
Four pounds of fish 4
Three ounces of salt }
One half-ounce of sugar } 0¼
One quarter-ounce of pepper }
Bay-leaf, thyme 0½
Two pounds of oatmeal 4
--
8¾
Cut four pounds of fresh fish of any kind in large pieces; put it in
your pan, with three ounces of salt, half an ounce of sugar, a little
pepper, two bay leaves, a little thyme, one quart of water, and let it
stew gently; mix two pounds of oatmeal with seven quarts of lukewarm
water, and pour it over the fish; stir it gently, so as not to break it
too much; let it boil twenty minutes, and it is done.
A red herring or dried salt fish, previously soaked, is exceedingly good
to make this food; but omit the salt if all salt fish is used.
NO. 7.--CURRY FISH.
Four onions, sliced }
One bay-leaf } 0½
Two apples, sliced }
Quarter of a pound of fat 1½
Three ounces of salt }
Half an ounce of sugar } 0¼
One pound of rice 2
An ounce of curry powder 0¾
Six pounds of fish 6
---
11
Put into a stew-pan four onions, a small bunch of bay-leaf, thyme, and
savory; two apples, if convenient, with a quarter pound of fat, three
ounces of salt, and quarter ounce of sugar, and fry for fifteen minutes.
Put one pound of rice, and four quarts of water, and boil till tender:
add one ounce of curry powder, mixed in a little water. Cut up six
pounds of cheap fish into pieces of the size of an egg; add to the
above, and boil for twenty or thirty minutes, according to the kind of
fish. Salt and dried fish, previously soaked, cooked in this way, is
excellent, omitting the salt.
NO. 8.--FOOD FOR THE COAST.
Three haddocks 3
Two pounds of salt }
Quarter of an ounce of sugar } 0½
--
3½
Take three middle-sized haddocks; remove the gills and interior, and cut
open; rub them with two pounds of salt, a quarter of an ounce of sugar;
let them remain twenty-four hours, turning occasionally; pass a twig
through the eyes, and hang them in a cool, well ventilated place, until
rather dry.
Conger eel cut into slices one inch thick, halibut, plaice, mackerel,
treated in the same manner (if large they must be crimped) will keep for
some time; they can he boiled, baked, broiled, or fried. A pound haddock
will take twelve minutes broiling, from fifteen to twenty frying, twenty
minutes baking or boiling.
NO. 9.--SAVOURY RICE FOOD.
Six pounds of bones 3
Ten quarts of water }
Three ounces of salt }
Bay-leaf, &c. }
Two onions, cut thin } 1
Half an ounce of sugar }
Half a pound of vegetables, cut small }
Half a pound of oatmeal 1
Pound of rice 2½
Two ounces of dripping 0½
--
8
The bones can be sold after using for 2
--
6
Having saved the bones of the previous day, a very good food may be made
as follows:--Take six pounds of bones, which break into small pieces,
and boil in ten quarts of water for four hours; having added three
ounces of salt, a small bunch of thyme, bay-leaf and savory, put into a
stew-pan the fat, and two onions cut thin, half a pound of vegetables,
as carrots, turnips, celery, &c., cut very thin, half ounce of sugar;
put it on the fire for fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally; add half
a pound of oatmeal, and mix well; moisten with two gallons of the stock
from the bones, add one and a quarter pound of rice, previously soaked;
boil till tender, and serve.
NO. 10.--RICE PANADA.
One pound of rice 2
Three-quarters of an ounce of sugar }
Two ounces of salt } 0½
One pound of flour 2
Half an ounce of curry powder at 6d., or a
quarter of a pound of treacle 0½
--
5
Boil a pound of rice (previously washed) in one gallon of water, for one
hour; add three quarters of an ounce of sugar, two ounces of salt; mix
with some cold water, to make a thin paste, one pound of flour or
oatmeal, and half an ounce of curry powder; add it to the rice, and boil
for twenty minutes, and serve.
Should it be preferred sweet, add a quarter of a pound of treacle
instead of the curry.
This will make ten pounds of solid food.
NO. 11.--PEAS PANADA.
Quarter of a pound of fat bacon or American pork 2
Two ounces of dripping 0½
Four ounces of onions or leeks 0¼
One pound and a half of peas 3
Half an ounce of salt }
Half a pound of Indian meal } 1
--
6¾
Cut a quarter of a pound of fat bacon or American pork into small dice,
put it into a stew-pan with two onions or tops of leeks; well wash, and
cut them thin, and fry ten minutes; add one pound and a half of peas,
half ounce of salt, quarter ounce of sugar, and one gallon of water,
boil till it becomes a purée or pulp, then add sufficient oatmeal,
common flour, or Indian meal, to make it thick, and boil thirty
minutes.[45] This food is very strengthening, and might be made several
days previous to using; it will keep well--if no vegetable is to be
obtained, a small quantity of essence of herbs would improve it.
NO. 12.--PEAS PANADA, SWEET.
One pound of peas }
Half an ounce of salt } 2
An ounce of dripping 0½
Half a pound of Indian meal 1
Quarter pound of treacle 1
--
4½
Boil in one gallon of water, one pound of peas, add half an ounce of
salt, one ounce of dripping or melted suet, mix with it half a pound of
Indian meal, boil for two hours, stirring it well, add a quarter of a
pound of treacle; this can be eaten hot or cold.
NO. 13.--CHEESE STIRABOUT.
One pound of Indian meal 2
Three ounces of salt 0¼
Half a pound of cheese 2
Quarter ounce of mustard 0½
--
4¾
Put two gallons of water in a stewpan, and boil; take some Indian meal,
the quantity depends on the quality, and add it gradually to the water,
stirring it all the time so that it should be quite smooth and thick:
add three ounces of salt; simmer on the side of the fire for two hours,
taking care that it does not burn; add half a pound of strong cheese,
broken small or grated, with a little mustard: give it a boil and serve.
Or put it into baking tins, allow it to get cold, cut it into pieces,
which fry or bake.
NO. 14.--INDIAN MEAL POULLENTA.
One pound of meal 2
Quarter of a pound of sausage meat 1
--
3
Prepare the meal as above (which must be very thick) without the cheese;
place it in baking tins; place a thin layer of sausage meat or black
pudding upon it, and cover it with more of the meal; bake it for twenty
minutes and serve.
This is an excellent and cheap dish, and fit for the tables of the
wealthy if a strong gravy is poured over it when served.
NO. 15.--SAVOURY HOMINY.
Two quarts or four pounds of Indian corn 8
Quarter of a pound of dripping 1
Two onions }
Three ounces of salt } 0½
--
9½
Take two quarts of Indian corn and soak it for twenty-four hours in
water, put it into a pot containing two gallons of boiling water and
simmer for five hours; draw off the water, if any, add a quarter of a
pound of dripping, two onions, sliced thin, three ounces of salt, put it
on the fire for twenty minutes, keep stirring it all the time, so that
it does not burn, and serve. This will produce two gallons of excellent
food. The purée made from the whole corn, as above, is much sweeter and
more wholesome than that made from the ground meal. The great mistake at
present in the use of Indian meal is, that it is not cooked enough, it
being used similar to flour; it should, on the contrary, be well mixed
with boiling water and allowed to simmer for never less than two hours;
it then loses its raw taste and increases in quantity.
NO. 16.--ST. PATRICK’S SOUP.
One pound of meat at 4d. 4
Two ounces of dripping 0½
Vegetables 1
Salt, sugar
Flour 1
Spice }
Dillisk[46] } 0½
--
7
Take one pound of meat without bones, and cut into small pieces, put
into a stew-pan two ounces of dripping, one ounce of leeks, one ounce of
celery, one ounce of carrots, two ounces of turnips, and fry for ten
minutes; then add the meat with two ounces of salt, half ounce of sugar,
and fry until a thick glaze is produced; then add one quart of cold
water and half a pound of flour; then add two ounces of dillisk, well
washed and chopped fine; a little mixed spice and pepper. Boil
three-quarters of an hour, and serve.
NO. 17.--CHEAP OYSTER PORRIDGE.
On many parts of the coast oysters can be had for three shillings per
thousand; they can be made, without much trouble, into a nourishing and
palatable food, by putting two dozen into an earthen pan, with the
liquor from them, and add three spoonfuls of flour; place it on the
fire, stirring them round; add a little salt and pepper and they are
done. This can be added to the porridge made of the Indian corn and
rice, or in the other receipts, where fish is used; a little lard is an
improvement; also a bay-leaf, mint, and an onion sliced.
Mussels and cockles can be used in the same way in proportion of two
dozen to the quart.
NO. 18.--CABBAGE STIRABOUT.
Well wash two pounds of cabbage, take out the stalks, and cut it
slanting in slices; put into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of
dripping, lard, or butter; half ounce of salt, quarter ounce of pepper,
one ounce of sugar, put it on the fire for ten minutes, stir it well,
then cover it with water and stew for twenty minutes, and mix it with
stirabout, previously made of Indian corn meal.
Young nettles done in this way are exceedingly wholesome, and any kind
of green vegetables can be cooked in this manner.
NO. 19.--CONGER EELS.
Put a slice of about two pounds weight into a saucepan, or earthen pot,
with two onions sliced thin; a small quantity of dillisk, well washed
and chopped fine, quarter ounce of salt, and a little pepper, add two
quarts of water, and stew for one hour; ten minutes before using take
out the fish and thicken with a little flour, previously mixed with some
water; boil ten minutes, pour it over the fish, and serve--if onions or
dillisk are not to be had, use half a pound of any vegetable cut fine:
_halibut and similar fish_ can be cooked in the same manner.
RECEIPT NO. 20.
Take three dozen of mussels, wash them, and place them in a stewing pan
over the fire for five minutes, so that the shell is open; take them
off, and remove the upper shell: sometimes a small crab will be found in
them, which remove, as they are rather unwholesome; replace them, with
their liquor and bottom shell, in the pan, add a spoonful of flour,
mixed with some butter or lard, and a spoonful of chopped parsley; stir
it in, and stew for five minutes, and serve.
For a large quantity have ready the large boiler, put therein four
pounds of lard or butter, and four pounds of sliced onions, and fry for
five minutes; have ready two pails full of mussels with their liquor out
of their shell, which put in the boiler, with one pound of salt, two
ounces of pepper, two ounces of sugar, and two pounds of chopped
parsley; have ready two pounds of flour, mixed with water, to the
consistence of good cream, and put it into the boiler; boil for ten to
fifteen minutes, stir it gently with a wooden spatula, and serve; if not
required meagre, use instead of the flour and water the same quantity of
boiling stock, from the bones of meat, or from cow-heel, well stewed,
parts of which, cut small, can be added: any flavour of herbs may be
given, if liked.
NO. 21.--THE POOR MAN’S POTATO PIE.
Wash and peel six pounds of good potatoes, cut in slices, take one pound
of fat mutton or beef cut into small dice, mix the whole with pepper and
salt, cover with 51 paste, and bake one hour and half, and serve.
In all the foregoing receipts, a greater quantity of meat may be used by
those who can afford it, as I am a great advocate that every trade
should flourish and that wealth should support luxury. However great the
quantity of meat that may be used, no longer time should be used in
cooking it. Take the same proportion of the receipts for any larger
quantity.
ANECDOTES, ETC.
THE DUKE OF CAMBRIDGE’S HEAD-QUARTERS PRIOR TO THE BATTLE OF INKERMANN.
[Illustration: THE DAWN OF INKERMANN.]
His Royal Highness’s quarters were situate about one hundred and thirty
yards to the left of the windmill on the Woronzoff Road. Five parallel
bell-tents were occupied--one by the duke, the others by Colonel
Macdonald, Colonel Tyrwhitt, Major Clifton, and Dr. Gibson, his staff.
M. Comte, _chef de cuisine_ to the duke, and to whose devotion to all
who came in his way and needed help while in the Crimea I before have
had in this work occasion to allude, has since related to me that on the
morning of the Battle of Inkermann he got up at three o’clock, the
weather being chilly and damp and a thick heavy fog surrounding the
camp, and having lit his fire he made himself some tea, when, about
five, as he was quietly smoking his pipe _à la bivouacaire_, within
range of the fire (of his open-air battery) the duke came up to him,
exclaiming, “Halloo! M. Comte, you are about early this morning.”
“Yes, your Highness,” he replied; “the fact is, the weather is so cold
and damp, that for the life of me I could not sleep, therefore I turned
out and made myself a cup of tea.”
“You are right,” said the duke, warming his feet by the fire; “the
weather is truly wretched.”
Hardly had the duke said these words, than several volleys of musketry
and loud shouts reverberated through the camp, something like the growls
of thousands of wild animals. Leaving no doubt that it was an attack of
the enemy, the duke immediately left me and ran for his horse, and was
soon mounted, and started alone towards the scene of action; a few
minutes after, his staff followed in the wake of their gallant leader.
So sudden was his departure, that, having made a bowl of tea which I had
intended for him, though I ran after him with it in my hand, his
Highness started without partaking of it. Not till five o’clock in the
evening did the duke return, his horse wounded, and a bullet having
passed through his coat-sleeve without injuring him. Major Clifton had
been wounded in the cheek during the battle, and came back to quarters
during the day to have his wound dressed by Dr. Gibson. On returning
once more to the field of battle, he had his horse shot under him. When
he again returned he was seen carrying the saddle of his defunct animal
on his back. At the return of the staff in the evening, the outside of
the duke’s head-quarters had the appearance of a field hospital, M.
Comte having taken on himself to supply refreshment to all the wounded
who were brought to his nursing care. I have heard that no less than six
or seven hundred had been supplied with succour in the course of two or
three days by his Highness’s faithful _chef de cuisine_.
On the 11th of the same month, and while the duke was staying on board
the _Resolution_, in the harbour of Balaklava, our heroic _chef de
cuisine_ was ordered to remain in possession of the commandant’s house
in Balaklava, awaiting the return of his royal master, and also having
under his charge no less than fifteen female prisoners of war, whom he
was charged by the authorities to watch over with the aid of sentries,
as it was thought that these female Amazons might fire Balaklava.
Amongst them was the Governor’s wife and children. All the men being
ordered out of the establishment, the Governor’s lady, with a smile on
her lips, in very good French, inquired of M. Comte if two gentlemen
present would be allowed to remain, which favour, after serious
consideration on the part of the new Governor _pro tem._, was granted,
these gentlemen being of the advanced ages respectively of three and
five years. “Never did I feel a greater relief,” said M. Comte, “than
when these lady prisoners were taken out of my charge, as each day
discovered some fresh attempts at conspiracy.” It was during the
governorship of this semi-warrior that the dreadful storm took place in
the Bay of Balaklava, and uprooted the beautiful avenue of poplar trees
which ornamented his capital, and which, to his sorrow, much disfigured
the prettiest part of his dominions.
On a previous occasion, just after landing, before the battle of the
Alma, this indefatigable culinary artist, who by the bye is an old
traveller, was seen, under a heavy shower of rain, cooking beneath the
wings of an open umbrella, preparing a dish of fried croquettes, at a
time when the duke himself did not anticipate such a delicacy. The
umbrella was used to stop the rain falling in the pan, which would have
prevented the completion of this dainty dish, water and fat being
irreconcilable foes.
[Illustration: A STORM IN A FRYING-PAN.]
Early the following morning an alarm took place, when our warrior-cook
deserted his umbrella, and shouldered his gun in his right as
commander-in-chief of his own battery (_de cuisine_). The moon was
faintly shining, and with its rays appeared the duke, who indistinctly
seeing some one, exclaimed, “_Who’s there?_” when M. Comte replied, “It
is me, your Highness. Having heard the alarm, I considered your tent and
my battery could not be too well guarded, so I have just taken up this
musket to be on the defensive.” The duke replied, “Really, Comte, vous
êtes impayable;” and immediately started with his staff to the supposed
scene of action. After a few hours everything was restored to order,
when Comte grounded arms, inspected his battery, and had breakfast ready
to the minute as usual.
[Illustration: THE CULINARY SENTRY.]
A VISIT TO THE SULTAN’S NEW PALACE OF DOLMA BATCHI.