which I procured by great favour, to visit this huge pile of marble,
prior to its final completion and occupation by his Majesty the Sultan
and his harem; and although many parts of it were open to the public by
ticket, yet very few visitors could boast of having seen so much of the
interior as myself of this stupendous and most elegant area, where the
modern houri of Mahomet were shortly to be located, they at this time
still remaining in the old palace on the Bosphorus. The large room
preparing for the reception of the Sultan’s favourites had but very
little moveable furniture, but at the same time was most elegantly
decorated. Nothing but couches were placed round the room, while the
flooring was of highly-polished wood of a most tasty design; the whole
of the hangings and coverings were of a rich satin of a lavender colour,
with a large flowery pattern; twenty chandeliers, of immense
dimensions--about seven feet in height--sprang from the ground, proudly
bearing each more than one hundred wax-lights. The wall was after the
Oriental fashion, which I do not much admire, here and there painted _al
fresco_, representing various views of either landscape, colonnades,
palaces, &c. In spite of this defect, the effect was so peculiar at the
first glance, that it produced on me a most extraordinary sensation. To
my surprise I found the ceiling remarkably low, but which I found, on
consideration, would not appear so to its future innumerable tenants,
from their habit of squatting on the floor. The effect of the light on
this apartment had been tried two nights before, and the ends of the
wax-lights still remained in the sockets of the chandeliers, and which,
when lit, must have had a most extraordinary effect. Here for the first
time I had an uninterrupted view from the interior of a harem, through
the latticed windows, which are now made on an improved principle to the
old Turkish style, which give you more than ever an opportunity to see
from the inside without being seen, the exterior of which is also
painted with views of landscapes, which are visible from the Bosphorus.
At the further end of this stupendous kind of drawing-room were several
apartments for the favourites, most gorgeously decorated by valuable
Oriental tapestry, hanging curtains, ottomans, &c. Next I was shown a
narrow corridor with three doors; I learned that these were the
penitential cells for any of the naughty beauties who might need
correction; however, the dungeons did not bear a very dreadful aspect.
From here we went to the Sultan’s bedroom, which was gorgeously
decorated with deep golden fringe and crimson velvet hangings of the
richest description; the decorations of this room are almost
indescribable. We then visited another room, called the Sultan’s Cabinet
de Travail, where I was much struck to see it entirely fitted up in the
European style, quite _à la Française_, after the style of Louis XV.
Upon inquiring of my ciceroni, I learned that the whole of the furniture
of the apartment had been presented to the Sultan by the Emperor of the
French, Napoleon III., and I must say that the quiet, though superb,
manner in which it was fitted was a most pleasant relief to me after
wandering through so many gaudy and superfluously grand apartments. The
Sultan had already occupied himself in this room. The carpet and table
were covered with the finest red French cloth, while the ceiling was of
a good elevation; in fact, the Tuileries (which I have lately visited)
cannot boast a more tasty or better fitted-up apartment. The staircase
leading to the harem was very striking, the lantern at the summit being
covered with paintings, representing windows with pots of flowers,
vases, birds, &c.; yet the whole of these, though well painted,
presented quite a theatrical aspect to the really charming appearance of
the marble staircase. My guide had observed to me while in the Cabinet
de Travail, that he never recollected any stranger entering it before;
he then showed me the chef-d’œuvres of the palace, which were the
ladies’ baths--the most expensive and luxurious part of this costly
palace, the bath being the greatest luxury of the Turks, the whole of
them being inlaid with sapphire stone boldly carved. We then passed
through the Throne Room, which I have already described in this work: it
is a regular _facsimile_ of St. Sophia, but more gaudy. We then walked
through the Reception Room for the ambassadors, which is simply
decorated with gold and white, in the European style. On turning to the
left, we came to the grand crystal staircase with its thousand jets of
red light. I then begged to be shown the kitchen, which request at first
I perceived was objected to by my guide, who expressed himself that it
was impossible; but being armed with formidable letters, and making use
of M. Roco Vido’s name, who is well known to the Sultan’s grand hatchi
batchi, or chief cook, I at length prevailed on him to induct me to this
pandæmonium of scientific handicraft, where between three and four
hundred cooks were busily engaged manipulating the most _recherché_
dishes _à la_ Turk, many of which I had the pleasure of tasting. The
appearance and bustle of the kitchen, which was quite new to me, put me
more in mind of a public market than what it really was; every man-cook
was dressed in the Oriental fashion, all looking very clean. The copper
vessels which they use are daily tinned--which fact I learnt from the
_Chef_,--and shone like so much silver. The process of the Turkish
cookery, though slow, I much approve of, as the succulence and aroma of
every kind of food are retained, and it is far superior to our system,
everything being cooked or stewed on the top of red-hot ashes laid on
slabs of stone or marble. The floor of the kitchen was rather ill-paved,
and the attendants were in the habit of strewing everything on the
ground not wanted for use--an untidy trick. I could trace from the
interior of this monster establishment no less than twenty huge shaft
chimneys sprouting out from the roof of this gastronomic temple. It was
now near twelve o’clock, when a shower of tray-bearers made their
appearance in the kitchen, and with the greatest celerity were loaded
with heaps of dishes belonging to the first, second, and third course. I
ascertained on inquiry that these were for the dinners of the ladies of
the harem. White snowy-looking cloths were thrown over each tray, and
they were carried, to my astonishment, to the old palace on the
Bosphorus, a distance of nearly half a mile, on the bearers’ heads,--the
large kitchen at the latter place having been destroyed by fire, and the
Sultan’s meals only being prepared there in a private kitchen, his
Majesty always dining alone; which order was instituted by Mahomed II.,
the story being, that that monarch had so little confidence in those
around him, that he always feared they would rob him of his food while
carrying it from plate to mouth. Delighted with my visit, I deposited in
my cicerone’s hands the golden key, in the shape of bakschish, with
which I had so successfully opened the palace door of the Sublime
Porte.
THE PARISIAN KITCHEN FOR THE WORKING-CLASSES,
OR FOURNEANT DE L’IMPERATRICE
The kitchens for the working-classes are sixty-eight in number, each
capable of supplying from one thousand to twelve hundred mechanics with
good food, for which each one pays about two-thirds of the value
received, although nothing is given gratuitously. They are attended by
Sisters of Charity, and kept extremely clean, while the deficit is, I
believe, made up by her Majesty the Empress and the municipality of
Paris, from whom these institutions derive their name of Fourneant de
l’Impératrice. The provisions are supplied from the central market of
Paris, the Halle au Blé, which is under the superintendence of the
Comptroller-General, M. Durand, by whom I was treated with the greatest
courtesy while drawing up the report I made to his Majesty by imperial
command; and I much regret that want of space prevents my giving it at
full length here, although the report had chiefly a local importance.
Wagons take the different articles of food early in the morning to all
the establishments. These are most useful institutions, and in case of a
scarcity of food, provisions could always, at a trifling expense, be
dressed here for the needy. Indeed, every metropolis, and all large
mercantile towns, ought to follow this excellent example, which, I
believe, owes its origin to England.
THE TRAVELLING GENTLEMEN OF THE CRIMEA.
I cannot pass without notice the following little anecdote, related to
me by Colonel Carleton of the Coldstreams--the principal personage
connected with it. The day after the battle of Inkermann (said the
gallant colonel) the field was visited by many T. G.’s, some of them
contorting their optics with eye-glasses, and taking a survey of the
many dead on the field, near to the spot where he was busily engaged in
paying the last duty to the remains of the defunct brave; whereupon he
made inquiry of one of his men if the gentlemen were known who seemingly
took such an interest in the awful spectacle. He then desired them to
come to him, which request, with a kind smile, they soon obeyed; but
much were they disappointed when, instead of addressing them in a
friendly manner, the Colonel ordered them to take their coats off and
shoulder a pick and dig graves, which disagreeable task they could not
avoid, as discipline was the order of the day, though very disgusting
the task to our curious and no doubt wealthy pleasure-hunters. They
were, the Colonel afterwards ascertained, merchants from one of our
great commercial cities. When trapped, it was morning; when they
finished their task, it was night. Thus our amateur gravediggers had not
only a hard day’s work, but a very unpleasant one in the bargain.
THE CONSUMPTION HOSPITAL, BROMPTON.
_A Visit to the Kitchen, by Request._
While at the Reform Club, Captain Lyons, R.M., requested me to visit the
kitchen of the above hospital, in the anticipation that I might be able
to make some improvements in that department, if any should be
requisite. The day following I went and found the place in the most
perfect order, while all at once a stove of a very showy structure
caught my eye, in which were placed eight or ten copper caldrons, well
fixed in either iron or brick frames, each being labelled beef-tea,
coffee, tea, &c. I could not but approve of the elegant appearance these
utensils presented, but at the same time give my disapprobation of their
having copper in use, while screwed down so tightly that but a small
chance remained of their being properly tinned. In removing the lid, I
remarked to the Captain that not the slightest particle of tin remained,
and that therefore the cooking could not be done in any other but a
highly dangerous manner. I then explained to the woman cook where the
danger lay; when she quietly answered that there could be no danger, as
she had each boiler cleansed two or three times a day; which of course
was the root of the evil, having no doubt been the cause of the entire
disappearance of the tin. In asking her how long it was since they were
tinned, she replied,--“Not since she had been engaged there, nor,
probably, since they had been fixed up;” when I explained to her the sad
mistake in not having well tinned all such boilers, in large
establishments such as this, where the utensils are in daily use, as
they ought to be tinned at least once in every three months. I then made
about a gallon of beef-tea with the hospital rations, in less than an
hour, to which quick process she much objected, saying that she was
certain the patients would not like it, as in that time it could not be
thoroughly done, as she always stewed it for at least six or seven
hours, by which time the meat was done to ribbons. I begged the Captain
to allow several basins of my broth to be sent to the different wards to
various patients, which was done, whom we afterwards visited. When the
Captain inquired of one how he felt, he answered that he felt a great
deal better that day, his taste having returned to him, which was a
proof of the superiority of my plan over that of their cook’s--a system,
I regret to say, practised in many large establishments. (For Beef-tea,
see Hospital Diets.)
COPIES OF LETTERS
FROM THE MILITARY AUTHORITIES, ADDRESSED TO M. SOYER DURING HIS
STAY IN TURKEY AND THE CRIMEA.
HEAD-QUARTERS, SCUTARI, _August 3rd, 1855_.
DEAR MONSIEUR SOYER,--As you are about to leave the hospitals at
Scutari for Balaklava, I think, in justice to your unremitting
attention and zeal in your endeavours to improve the culinary
department, it is incumbent on me, as the military commanding
officer of the troops in the Bosphorus and Dardanelles, to express
to you how much the sick and wounded of this army, as well as those
who have their interest at heart, are indebted to you for the
improvement you have made in the cooking of these establishments.
Your alterations of the kitchens and stoves must add much to the
economy of fuel, which is of the greatest consequence here; and
your successful attempts, combined with simplicity of making such
palatable beverages and soups out of so small a portion of
ingredients, is highly advantageous.
Wishing you a pleasant voyage, and hoping to find the cooking in
camp as much improved as the cooking here,
I am, yours ever faithfully,
(Signed) W. PAULET, _Brigadier-General_.
I am sure General Simpson will afford you every assistance in
carrying out your wishes.
HEAD-QUARTERS, SCUTARI, _20th Nov., 1855_.
MY DEAR MONSIEUR SOYER,--I regret exceedingly to learn that you
have been ill, and hope you are recovered by this time. When do you
leave for the Crimea? I hope to have the pleasure of seeing you
before you depart. The British army owes you much, and is grateful
for all you have done.
Thanks to your exertions, we have at least ameliorated our military
system of cookery, and we thank you sincerely for it.
Accept my best wishes, and believe me, yours truly,
H. K. STORKS,
_Brigadier-General_.
HEAD-QUARTERS, SCUTARI, _March 22nd, 1856_.
MY DEAR MONSIEUR SOYER,--I cannot allow you to leave Scutari
without expressing my perfect satisfaction with all you have done
to ameliorate the culinary system for our soldiers. The kitchens
you have established at Scutari answer admirably, and I am
satisfied that we are as much redevable, if not more so, to the
cooks for the good health we now enjoy, as to the doctors.
Pray receive, my dear Monsieur Soyer, the assurance of my
sentiments of kind regard.
Yours truly,
H. K. STORKS,
_Brigadier-General_.
To Monsieur Alexis Soyer.
SOYER’S VILLARETTE, _May 15th, 1856_.
After doubting many of your enthusiastic views as to cooking, I
acknowledge that I am fairly beaten. Every one to his trade.
Yours very truly,
C. A. WINDHAM,
_Major-General, Commander of Staff_.
CAMP, FIRST DIVISION, _May 25th, 1856_.
MONSIEUR SOYER,--I accept, with many thanks, the portable
cooking-stove you have been kind enough to present me; and I
perceive it will henceforth be the means of my eating after a
civilized fashion, so long as I have a coat-pocket to carry it in.
I beg your acceptance of an inkstand, made with a Russian
grapeshot. It bears upon its surface the proof of having been
projected during the siege, and will, therefore, serve you as a
lasting reminiscence of your sojourn in the camp.
I also hope it will cause you to bear in mind the assurance of the
value I attach to all the exertions and arrangements you have made
to ameliorate the position of our brave soldiers, by teaching them
to utilize their rations, and improve the cooking of their
food--formerly so often spoiled or wasted.
Pray accept the assurance of my highest consideration.
ROKEBY.
HEAD-QUARTERS, SCUTARI, _May, 1856_.
DEAR MONSIEUR SOYER,--Many thanks for your obliging letter of the
29th April.
I thank you for the trouble you have taken with Marshal Pelissier,
and am much flattered by the cordial acknowledgment of his
Excellency. Should you have occasion to see him again, pray tell
him so.
I sincerely compliment you upon the success of your stoves. The
British army owes you much; and I assure you we are highly
sensible of the value of your devotion, and the disinterested and
honourable sentiments you have displayed.
Our system of military cookery much required reform, and in
introducing a new one you have rendered us immense service.
Pray accept, my dear Monsieur Soyer, the assurance of my esteem and
highest consideration.
H. K. STORKS,
_Brigadier-General_.
LIGHT DIVISION CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _June 7th, 1856_.
General Lord William Paulet, commanding Light Division, having
inspected the camp cooking-stoves issued by Monsieur Soyer for
trial to the ten regiments composing his division, has much
pleasure in stating that they answer in every respect. They consume
not a quarter so much fuel; they boil the meat more regularly, and
the vegetables, and therefore make better soup; they never smoke,
which is invariably the case with all barrack cook-houses. You can
use them either out of doors or inside, and would prove useful in
all standing camps or barracks; and may be issued to the troops
according to the number required occupying a barrack, and the
remainder being kept in store, they being so portable.
Lord William would like to see them in all quarters occupied by
troops where the cook-houses are not good, and the saving of fuel
would pay the expense.
SCUTARI BARRACKS HOSPITAL, _April 9th, 1855_.
It gives me great pleasure to testify, after visiting Monsieur
Soyer’s kitchen in the above establishment, and comparing the
quality and economy of the many excellent preparations made for the
use of the sick, that those prepared from his formulæ are very
superior to those previously supplied.
I consider, if the suggestions of Monsieur Soyer be acted on, that
he will have conferred a great boon on the sick and convalescent
soldier, and for such improvement will deserve the thanks of every
person having feeling for the British soldier, and who desires to
ameliorate his condition.
HUGH BIRT, F.R.C.S.E.,
_Civil Surgeon of the 1st Class to the Scutari Hospital_.
HYDER PASHA HOSPITALS, SCUTARI, _May 1st, 1855_.
This is to certify that Monsieur Soyer has, in his visits to the
above hospitals, rendered a very important service, by clearly
demonstrating that the dietary for the sick may, by his improved
method of cooking, be greatly enhanced in value by making it, out
of the usual materials, more nutritious, more palatable, and more
advantageous for every purpose.
H. G. W. MACELLERY,
_1st Class S. Surgeon, Superintending Medical Officer,
Hyder Pasha Hospitals_.
BALAKLAVA, _June 15th, 1855_.
MY DEAR SIR,--In reply to your letter of the 7th instant, there
will be no difficulty whatever in giving to the troops occasionally
salt beef and pork on the same day, should they wish it.
Trusting soon to have the pleasure of seeing you in the Crimea,
I remain, yours very truly,
WILLIAM FILDER.
A. Soyer, Esq.,
&c. &c. &c.
_June 16th, 1855._
MY DEAR SIR,--I am much obliged to you for the trouble you have
taken in my behalf, and feel confident that any arrangement entered
into by you will be as excellent as the other results I have
witnessed, of that ability and energy by which our poor fellows
have so much benefited. I will deliver your message to Colonel
Daniell.
Believe me, my dear Sir, yours very truly,
J. W. CARLETON.
_3rd September, 1855._
MY DEAR SIR,--I was not well the day of your former feast, which
unfortunately deprived me of the pleasure of tasting your good
things; and to-day I am compelled to go down to Balaklava to see
after stores for the troops embarking for Kertch. But I know all
will do well under your able direction, and hereafter I shall have
the satisfaction of witnessing the beneficial results of your
labours in the camp kitchens.
Sincerely yours,
J. HALL.
PURVEYOR-IN-CHIEF’S OFFICE, SCUTARI,
_August 8th, 1855_.
MY DEAR SIR,--I have much pleasure in acknowledging the receipt of
your letter. If I have done anything to help you, it is because I
have seen it to be my duty to the public, and because your
admirable arrangements have all the object of making the sick man
delight in his diet, which, I fear, was not the case previous to
your arrival.
I can, perhaps, more than any one appreciate the good you have
done. Why, then, should I not heart and soul help you in an object,
the attainment of which induced you to leave England?--viz., the
good of the soldier.
Go on, and success to you. I will endeavour to help you as much as
I can at Balaklava, as I have felt it my duty and pleasure to do
here.
I am, my dear Sir, yours truly,
J. SCOTT ROBERTSON.
Monsieur Alexis Soyer,
Balaklava.
GUARDS’ CAMP, FIRST DIVISION, SEBASTOPOL,
_October 16th, 1855_.
I hereby acknowledge the receipt of five of Monsieur A. Soyer’s
field-kitchens or camp stoves, which are now in active use by the
cooks of the Coldstream Guards. And I hereby further acknowledge
the receipt of a sixth camp-stove from Monsieur Soyer, for the use
of the hospital of the said regiment. I cannot speak too highly in
praise of these camp-kitchens for the great comfort and convenience
they afford, the great economy and diminution of fuel, whether
placed in the open air or under cover, and enabling the cooks to
soak their salt meat properly; also to make puddings of rice and
other things; and in cases of emergency, any quantity of
rice-water, barley-water, or lemonade can be made, as well as soup,
beef-tea, &c. If split peas were issued as rations by the
Commissariat once or twice a week, when salt pork and beef are
given, it would be a great addition to the soldier’s comfort, as
well as a most wholesome and nutritious food, and very strongly
recommended by Monsieur Soyer. Speaking for the Brigade of Guards,
which I have the honour at this time to command, I have to thank
Monsieur Soyer for all his kindness, and the very great boon he has
given us by granting us the use of his stoves, which are the models
for the rest of the army in the Crimea.
GORDON DRUMMOND, Colonel,
_Commanding Brigade of Guards_.
Monsieur A. Soyer, Guards’ Encampment, Sebastopol.
BALAKLAVA, _9th Dec., 1855_.
DEAR MONSIEUR SOYER,--I am favoured with your letter of 29th ult.,
and am glad to hear so favourable a report of the compressed
vegetables which have recently arrived out.
I sent to Constantinople some time ago for a supply of haricot
beans, with, the view to being issued with salt pork, as you
recommended; and their introduction generally will be greatly
benefited by your personal superintendence and advice, as you
propose.
We shall all have great pleasure in seeing you here again, and
availing ourselves of your valuable suggestions and services.
The winter has fairly set in, after two months of beautiful
weather. Cold, damp, and discomfort prevail to a certain extent,
and we move about in a sea of mud; but, as a set-off, we have
abundance of supplies of all kinds, including fuel--the men are
well clothed, and the erection of the huts is well advanced,
notwithstanding their late arrival and the difficulty in
transporting them to the front.
I remain, dear Monsieur Soyer,
Yours very faithfully,
GEO. MACLEAN.
Monsieur Soyer, &c.,
Scutari.
P. S.--I have written for a six months’ supply of Chorlet’s
compressed vegetables as a reserve, and to guard against unforeseen
contingencies. We have fresh vegetables, potatoes, and onions, more
regularly; but cannot always expect this will continue. The
quantity sent for will be about 10,000,000 of rations.--G. M.
CAMP, _May 11th, 1856_.
SIR,--One of your cooking-stoves was tried by me yesterday and
to-day.
It answers to perfection; I never tasted better soup than was this
day made by a soldier out of _the regular rations_.
The quantity of fuel saved by this stove is enormous.
I trust that your information is correct--viz., that Government
have made arrangements to supply the army with these
cooking-stoves.
I have the honour to be, Sir,
Your obedient servant,
ALEXANDER MAXWELL, Lieut.-Col.,
_Commanding 46th Regiment_.
Monsieur Alexis Soyer.
CAMP, SEVASTOPOL, _May 21st, 1856_.
MY DEAR MONSIEUR SOYER,--I can have no hesitation in saying that
your stove is the best I have seen, and the men of my regiment are
very much pleased with it.
I think you told me that ovens could be fitted to them also; if so,
they will be a boon conferred on the British soldier, which he
will, I am sure, highly appreciate.
Yours very faithfully,
B. DAUBENEY,
_Commanding 55th Regiment_.
CAMP, NEAR SEBASTOPOL, _May 23rd, 1856_.
SIR,--I have the honour to report that the result of the
experimental cooking by Monsieur Soyer’s stove and boiler has been
most satisfactory.
The small quantity of fuel required is a great advantage, a small
stick carried by each man of a company would afford sufficient fuel
to cook a meal.
I have the honour to be, Sir,
Your most obedient humble servant,
W. SPARKE, Lieut.-Col.,
_Commanding 38th Regiment_.
The Major of Brigade.
CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _May 25th, 1856_.
SIR,--I have to acknowledge your letter of this morning, and have
much pleasure in stating that during the short period we had the
opportunity of using your field-stove, nothing could be more
satisfactory, both in its superiority as a means of cooking a large
quantity of rations in a short time, and also from the small
quantity of fuel used in doing so. I must also give it as my
opinion, that it is admirably suited for operations in the field,
but requires to have the outer casing protected in some way;
probably an open netting of iron wire would do so, with a couple of
loops, so that two stoves could be attached and carried by one mule
or horse.
I remain, Sir,
Yours very faithfully,
RAMSAY STUART,
_Lieutenant-Colonel 21st Fusiliers_.
Alexis Soyer, Esq.,
&c. &c. &c.,
Crimea.
CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _26th May, 1856_.
SIR,--I beg leave to state that I approve most highly of your
field-stoves.
Each company in my regiment has had good opportunities of fully
testing their qualities; and both in the cooking of fresh and salt
meat have been found to answer the purpose for which they were
intended, remarkably well.
I have the honor to be, Sir,
Your most obedient humble servant,
B. RILEY, Lieut.-Col.,
_Commanding 48th Regiment_.
Monsieur A. Soyer.
FOURTH DIVISION, CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _26th May, 1856_.
MONSIEUR SOYER,--In reply to your letter of the 21st of this month,
relative to the field-stoves, I beg to state that the stove has
been tried by the 57th Regiment, and I am of opinion that it is
well adapted for the purpose intended.
It affords every facility for cooking, and saves a considerable
quantity of fuel; and two of the stoves to one company on the march
would be far preferable to the camp-kettles now in use.
I have the honour to be,
JOHN A. STREET, Lieut.-Col.,
_Commanding 57th Regiment_.
Monsieur Soyer,
Fourth Division.
CAMP, SEVASTOPOL, _27th May, 1856_.
SIR,--I have the honour to state, for the information of the
Major-General commanding the Fourth Division, that Monsieur Soyer’s
cooking-stove has been tried in the 57th Regiment, and I am of
opinion that it is well adapted for the purpose intended; there is
a very considerable saving of fuel, and little difficulty in
cooking; and two stoves per company would be far preferable to the
camp-kettles now in use.
I have the honour to be, Sir,
Your obedient servant,
JOHN A. STREET, Lieut.-Col.,
_Commanding 57th Regiment_.
Lieut.-Col. Smith, A.A.G.,
Fourth Division.
CAMP BEFORE SEBASTOPOL, _26th May, 1856_.
SIR,--With reference to No. 3 of this day’s order, I have the
honour to state that during the short period we had the opportunity
of using Monsieur Soyer’s field-stove, nothing could be more
satisfactory, both in its superiority as a means of cooking a large
quantity of rations in a short time, and also from the small
quantity of fuel used in doing so.
I must also give it as my opinion that it is admirably suited for
operations in the field, but requires to have the outer casing
protected in some way; probably an open netting of iron wire would
do so, with a couple of loops, so that two stoves could then be
attached and carried by one mule or horse.
I have the honour to be, Sir, your most obedient servant,
RAMSAY STUART, Lieut.-Col.,
_Commanding 21st Fusiliers_.
The Assistant-Adjutant-General, &c. &c. &c., Fourth Division.
CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _26th May, 1856_.
SIR,--In compliance with Division Order No. 3 of this day’s date, I
beg leave to state that I approve most highly of the Soyer
field-stoves.
Each company in my regiment has had good opportunities of fully
testing their qualities; and both in the cooking of fresh and salt
meat, they have been found to answer the purpose for which they
were intended, remarkably well.
I have the honour to be, Sir,
Your most obedient humble servant,
B. RILEY, Lieut.-Col.,
_Commanding 48th Regiment_.
The Brigade-Major,
Second Brigade,
Fourth Division Camp.
CAMP, FOURTH DIVISION, _27th May, 1856_.
SIR,--In compliance with divisional orders of yesterday’s date,
directing officers commanding corps to report on Monsieur Soyer’s
stove,
I have the honour to state I consider Monsieur Soyer’s stove cooks
the men’s rations infinitely better than the ordinary way. The
saving of fuel, also, to Government is a very important
consideration; and moreover I am informed by Monsieur Soyer that
the men’s rations can easily be baked by his stove, which I
consider very desirable, so as to enable the men to have a change
in the way of cooking their dinner.
I have the honour to be, Sir,
Your most obedient servant,
F. C. EVELEGH, Lieut.-Col.,
_Commanding 20th Regiment_.
The Assistant-Adjutant-General,
Fourth Division.
CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _27th May, 1856_.
SIR,--Having had one of your field-stoves in use for some weeks,
for the men of the 23d Fusiliers, and all the companies having
taken their turn of cooking with it, I am happy to be able to bear
testimony to the great improvement you have effected in the
soldiers’ cooking. Your field-stoves are clean, easy to use, and
very economical of fuel; they cook the soldiers’ food extremely
well, and the men like them very much, each company having been
anxious to retain the stove as long as possible. The great saving
of fuel, also, renders these stoves particularly valuable in a camp
like this.
I am, Sir,
Your obedient servant,
HENRY W. BUNBURY, Lieut.-Col.,
_Commanding 23rd Fusiliers_.
Monsieur Alexis Soyer,
&c. &c. &c.
LIGHT DIVISION CAMP, _May 27th, 1856_.
SIR,--I beg to acknowledge the receipt of your letter respecting
the field-stove, and have no hesitation in giving my testimony as
to its great efficiency, both as to economy of fuel and the simple
method of cooking, the result of which can scarcely fail to be
satisfactory, even with the most ignorant and unskilful performer.
I have the honour to be, Sir,
Your most obedient servant,
PERCY HILL, Lieut.-Col.,
_Commanding 2nd Bat. Rifle Brigade_.
Monsieur Soyer,
Fourth Division Camp.
CAMP OF THE LIGHT DIVISION BEFORE SEBASTOPOL,
_27th May, 1856_.
MY DEAR SIR,--I am happy to inform you that your new stove has been
used, with great success, in the 77th Regiment.
It dresses the men’s dinners remarkably well, and a great saving of
fuel is effected by using it--about a stone of coals a day.
I consider it admirably adapted for cooking in the field, and it is
very portable.
I am, my dear Sir,
Very faithfully yours,
R. J. STRATON, Lieut.-Col.,
_Commanding 77th Regiment_.
Monsieur Soyer, &c. &c.
CAMP BEFORE SEVASTOPOL, _28th May, 1856_.
SIR,--Having tried your stove, I consider it the best possible
cooking apparatus for the army, whether in barracks or standing
camp.
I have the honour to be, Sir,
Your most obedient servant,
A. RUSSELL, Major,
_Commanding 1st Bat. Rifle Brigade_.
Monsieur A. Soyer, Camp, Fourth Division.
CAMP, SEVASTOPOL, _28th May 1856_.
MONSIEUR SOYER,--The cooking-stove sent to my regiment on trial was
in use one week, and I am glad to be able to tell you was highly
approved of.
The soup was richer and superior in flavour, and the meat better
boiled.
It has the great advantage of cleanliness, also being capable of
service in the open air, needing only a shed to keep the weather
off those employed.
Yours very obediently,
W. H. WELLESLEY, Colonel,
_Commanding Royal Fusiliers_.
Monsieur A. Soyer.
CRIMEA, _31st May, 1856_.
I hereby certify that Soyer’s field-kitchen for fifty men has
recently been tried in the battalion under my command, in cooking
soldiers’ rations, and that it appears perfectly to answer all
purposes. It possesses many advantages--viz., the small quantity of
fuel required, its lightness and portability, and requiring, when
in use, the attendance of only one man. It is in every respect
preferable to the cooking coppers generally used in barracks.
R. W. HUEY, Lieut.-Col.,
_Commanding 2nd Bat. 1st Royal Regiment_.
CAMP, KAMARA, _1st June, 1856_.
I have much pleasure in bearing my testimony to the great advantage
of Monsieur Soyer’s field-stove over the usual method of cooking
practised by an army, from the economy in fuel, the little
attention it requires when the fire is once lighted, and its
construction enabling the soldier to cook in the open air in all
weathers. The slow process of boiling, also, which is easily
regulated by the men after a day’s instruction, produces a more
nutritious soup, and renders the meat more tender than when cooked
in the ordinary way. Altogether, I consider the improvement one of
great utility.
JOHN DOUGLAS, Lieut.-Col.,
_Commanding 79th Highlanders_.
To Monsieur Alexis Soyer.
CRIMEA, _June 2nd, 1856_.
SIR,--I have much pleasure in bearing testimony in favour of your
stove, which is highly approved by my men; and from its
cleanliness, and economy in fuel, I think it must supersede the old
method of cooking.
I remain, Sir,
Your obedient servant,
EDWARD W. WALKER, Colonel,
_Commanding Fusilier Guards_.
Monsieur Soyer, &c. &c.
CAMP, KAMARA, _2nd June, 1856_.
SIR,--In answer to yours of the 21st May last, I am of opinion that
your “field-stove,” if taken into general use in the army, would be
a great improvement over the old system of cooking with
camp-kettles. It requires but little attendance, a great deal less
fuel, without the least regard to situation, and may be used with
perfect freedom in any description of weather.
I have the honour to be, Sir,
Your obedient servant,
A. LEITH HAY, Lieut.-Col.,
_Commanding 93rd Highlanders_.
Monsieur Alexis Soyer, Cathcart’s Hill, Crimea.
LIGHT DIVISION CAMP, _4th June, 1856_.
SIR,--I have much pleasure in being able to bear testimony to the
efficacy of your field-stoves. Their extreme simplicity and their
consuming so little fuel, render them particularly applicable to
the use of soldiers. The men of the regiment under my command all
approve of them.
I have the honour to be, Sir,
Your obedient servant,
A. C. GOODENOUGH, Lieut.-Col.,
_Commanding 34th Regiment_.
Monsieur Alexis Soyer, Cathcart’s Hill.
CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _7th June, 1856_.
I have witnessed the working of Monsieur Soyer’s patent portable
kitchen for troops, and consider it most excellent--the process
simple, saving of fuel great, and always insuring a good meal to
the soldier, in camp or barrack, it will be a great boon, should it
be generally adopted.
THOMAS KELLY, Lieut.-Col.,
_Commanding 31st Regiment_.
CAMP BEFORE SEBASTOPOL, FOURTH DIVISION,
_June 14th, 1856_.
Major-General Garrett approves highly of the cooking-stoves
introduced by Monsieur Soyer, which have been made trial of by all
the regiments of the Fourth Division, and have given great
satisfaction to the men, and have been approved by commanding
officers.
In a standing camp, or in quarters, they are admirable; they can be
put up in an instant anywhere, either in or out of doors, and they
never smoke. If attention is paid to the proportions of meat,
water, and the necessary ingredients, when cooking commences, the
most careless soldier can scarcely fail in making a good mess.
There is also a great saving of fuel; and as only a certain amount
of fire can be kept going, a steady and even process of cooking is
insured, by which, without any great skill on the part of the
soldier, a good dinner is in due course produced.
A. GARRETT, Major-General,
_Commanding Fourth Division_.
LIGHT DIVISION CAMP, CRIMEA, _14th June, 1856_.
MY DEAR SIR,--It gives me great pleasure to send you my opinion of
your camp-stove--the 90th Light Infantry under my command having
had one on trial for some weeks, during which time I watched it
very closely. If generally used in the army, I consider it will be
as great a boon to soldiers as it must be a saving to the public.
Its portability for camp purposes, where one mule can carry two
stoves to cook everything for one hundred men, and without the
necessity for a cook-house, is an important consideration; but the
more so when its portability does not affect its qualities for
general purposes in barracks, &c. The smallest quantity of fuel is
required to light it and to keep it sufficiently hot, and the
degree of heat being so well and simply regulated, waste of fuel
becomes impossible, and the cooking much improved over ordinary
coppers in the usual barrack cook-houses. With the addition of your
very simple receipts, it appears to me that there is everything we
can require, not only to make the most of a soldier’s rations, but
to render them both wholesome and palatable.
You were good enough to superintend personally at my
cook-houses--until that time, the soldiers threw away, or used for
other purposes than intended, the fat of the pork ration; with your
plain instructions, they afterwards spread it on their bread as
butter, and no wonder they were exceedingly fond of it, for it was
pure and sweet, and far superior to the rank bad butter they
purchased in the canteens, &c., in the Crimea. It will not be
wasted again. I am happy to have this opportunity to acknowledge a
great service rendered, and I wish that your camp-stoves may meet
with the success they deserve, that they may be generally used in
the army, not only in camp, but in quarters, hospitals, &c.
I am, dear Sir, very faithfully yours,
ROBERT CAMPBELL, Colonel,
_Commanding 90th Light Infantry_.
Monsieur Alexis Soyer, &c. &c.
CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _14th June, 1856_.
MY DEAR SIR,--I have just received your letter.
In reply, I have now to state, from what I have seen of your
stoves, that they are most admirably adapted for the purpose
intended. They economize fuel, which is a great thing; and they
will be a great “boon” to the soldier, in every respect.
I am, yours very truly,
THOMAS INGRAM, Lieut-Col.,
_Commanding 97th Regiment_.
To Monsieur Soyer, &c. Barrack Hospital, Scutari.
HEAD-QUARTERS, SEBASTOPOL, _19th June, 1856_.
SIR,--In acknowledging your letter of the 15th instant, I have to
observe that one of your camp-stoves has been in constant use in
the 56th Regiment for the last two months, and from inquiries from
the men themselves, and my own observation, I am decidedly of
opinion that they possess very considerable advantages over any
other means of cooking at present in use in the British army, and I
would strongly advocate their being furnished to all barracks, not
only on account of their superiority in rendering the soldiers’
ration much more wholesome than when prepared by the means
ordinarily used, but also for their great economy of fuel and
labour.
All these advantages were clearly demonstrated on the occasion of
Lord Gough’s visit to the camp of the 56th, when, with ten of the
stoves in operation, you superintended so successfully the cooking
of five hundred men’s rations.
I remain, your very obedient servant,
A. W. LACY, Lieut.-Col.,
_Commanding 56th Regiment_.
Monsieur Soyer, &c. &c.
CAMP, KADIKOI, _June 26th, 1856_.
DEAR MONSIEUR SOYER,--The kitchen which you were kind enough to
leave in our camp has been working admirably; the men are quite
delighted with it, because it saves them so much trouble and cooks
their rations so far superior to the old way: the saving in fuel
must be immense. I trust, when we get back to England, every
regiment may be served with them.
Believe me, very truly yours,
W. PEEL, Lieut.-Col.,
_Commanding 11th Hussars_.
SCUTARI, _August 11th, 1856_.
MY DEAR SIR,--The department to which I belong having been broken
up consequent on the return of the English army from the East, I
hope you will allow me, before I leave this country, to express to
you the obligation I feel for your invaluable services in the
hospitals here and at Kululee. To the important information and
improvements which from the first you brought to bear upon the
culinary department at each hospital, have the sick been indebted
for much of the comforts they enjoyed when in hospital; nothing
does tend to console a patient, or to restore him, so much as the
nicety of the food which is given him: on the other hand, the
badly-cooked food which is so often found in hospitals where the
cooks have not been trained, retard no doubt the convalescence of
the sick, the patient rather turning from his meal than desiring
it. It was not so, however, with the hospitals here from the time
you commenced your improvements in the kitchens.
I could not, for myself, have desired anything better than the
meals which, through your management, were furnished daily to the
patients. I think the general management of the kitchen has been
admirable, and, considering the vast numbers which had to be cooked
for, in every way successful. I believe your system introduced into
the general hospitals of the army generally, would be attended with
incalculable advantage in every way, to the sick as well as the
convalescents, and, I have no doubt, with much economy.
You are aware how much pleasure it gave me to see the working of
your excellent field-kitchens at the First Division, when I visited
the Crimea in September last on duty. So much was I struck with
their excellence, and the little expense attending them, that I
addressed a letter to Sir Benjamin Hawes on the subject at the
time, suggesting the propriety of at once introducing them into the
hospitals in the front, where I believe they were very much wanted.
I can only hope that ere long not a regiment in the service will be
without them; and I am sure that will be the wish of all who have
seen them in operation.
Wishing you a happy return to England, where you left your family
and friends with the patriotic and humane object of rendering your
gratuitous services to the army in the East at a time when so much
suffering was endured by the soldiers both in hospital and in the
field, and with my thanks for your valuable assistance to my
department,
Believe me to be, yours very sincerely,
T. SCOTT ROBERTSON,
_Purveyor-in-Chief_.
To Monsieur Soyer.
MALTA, _September 8th, 1856_.
SIR,--In reply to your letter requesting me to give you my opinion
on the subject of your military cooking stove, I now beg to give
you the opinion I have formed of them.
I will first mention that the stove was used by each of the
companies of the 47th Regiment in succession. The non-commissioned
officers and soldiers all spoke most favourably of it.
The portable cooking stove has, in my mind, many important
advantages to recommend it--one very important one being that it
can cook in any situation whatsoever, and in any weather, and with
the smallest possible consumption of fuel of any kind which may be
available--a very great consideration in localities where fuel is
scarce or difficult of access. I imagine those stoves would have
answered admirably for cooking in the trenches before Sebastopol,
taking little room, consuming little fuel, and showing but little
smoke, and cooking the food as securely and perfectly in bad
weather as in fine.
For field hospitals they would answer admirably, _especially as
carrying their own fuel_ on a march. The cooking for the sick could
commence instantly on the halt taking place.
I think here at Malta they would be very useful in many of the
encampments; in fact, anywhere that troops are suddenly placed they
(the cooking stoves) would be found of great use. Even they could
answer very well in the event of troops having on any emergency to
embark in vessels inadequately provided with cooking apparatus.
Fully convinced of their merits, I wish the invention all the
military success and encouragement it deserves.
I have the honour to be your very obedient servant,
M. J. HALEY,
_Colonel commanding 47th Regiment_.
To Monsieur Alexis Soyer.
P.S. There is one observation I cannot help adding, which is that,
however desirable it is to give the army improved utensils for
cooking, little progress will be made in military cookery and
teaching the soldiers to turn such rations or other articles of
food to account in the most advantageous and ready manner, unless
it is some one person’s particular business to teach cooking. We
ought to have a non-commissioned officer for the special duty, and
who would be responsible for imparting instruction in that most
essential craft; recollecting a most important _maxime de
guerre_:--“C’est la soupe qui fait le soldat.”
13, KENSINGTON PARK TERRACE NORTH, _July, 1857_.
DEAR SIR,--I understand that you are about to publish some
observations respecting your valuable labours in the culinary
department in the military hospitals of Scutari and the Crimea. If
you permit me, I shall be happy to add a few remarks, such as
occurred to me during the period I was engaged by the Government as
one of the physicians in the Barrack Hospital. One of the first
duties in the treatment of the sick was to ascertain the quality of
the food adapted to invalids labouring under every form of fever,
of acute and chronic diarrhœa, and especially dysentery. It is
in vain to attempt to cure these diseases by medicines only; a
carefully regulated diet was of the first consequence; and I was
early disappointed and embarrassed by the wretched state of the
kitchens and diet intended for the sick. I was in the habit of
frequenting the kitchen which belonged to the division of the
hospital in which I was doing duty, and observing the mode of
cooking, and soon found that the soldier-cooks were quite ignorant
of their art. I have constantly examined and tasted the mutton and
fowls, the soups, the vegetables, and the puddings, and I do not
hesitate to affirm that they were as unpalatable and unsavoury and
as objectionable as they could be. The practice of cooking the
fowls was to put them into nets--a dozen or more in one net;
several nets were placed in large coppers; and then to boil them as
rapidly as possible, with fierce heat. I have many times examined
their quality after this process of rapid boiling, and always found
them extremely tough and uneatable, and generally the sick soldier
could not masticate them, especially as so many of the sick were
suffering from spongy gums and decayed teeth, the effects of
scurvy. The mutton, generally bad in quality, was always very badly
cooked, and the broths or soups very destitute of flavour. No one,
sir, can know so well as a physician the great value of palatable
and easily digestible food--it is of more consequence than the
whole contents of the apothecary’s shop.
I do not desire to flatter you, nor unnecessarily to disparage the
former miserable system of cooking. Your presence in that essential
department of the healing art inspired us with new hopes. In a few
days we discovered the superiority of your successful efforts to
unite the agreeable and nutritive qualities of food. Under your
instructions, the meat became savoury and eatable--the soups were
relished--the puddings were pleasant, and enjoyed--the tea and
coffee were refreshing. Those invalids who before your arrival
seemed to yield most patiently to their hard lot of
semi-starvation, and often went without the medical comforts, now
looked out anxiously for the hour when these creature blessings
were usually distributed. The Government, with a proper generosity,
gave almost a _carte blanche_ to the Medical Staff to order every
medical comfort to the poor sick soldier who could no longer wield
a sword or shoulder a musket, and who were perishing by diseases
aggravated by improper diet and bad cooking. The art of the
_cuisine_ yields not in importance to medicine itself--it is the
handmaid of the physician; and I would rather trust to its curative
powers than to the physic of the doctors, if I were limited to the
alternative of either the one or the other.
I am, dear Sir, your obedient servant,
ROBERT WOOLLASTON, _M.D. Lond., F.S.C.S.,
Late one of the Physicians of the Barrack
Hospital at Scutari_.
To Monsieur Soyer.
_Copy of Letter addressed by the Author to the Right Honourable the Lord
Panmure, K.T., &c. &c. &c., relating to the completion of his Mission,
in the shape of a Journal._
MY LORD,--I beg to close this little journal by stating the reason
of my long absence since the treaty of peace. It was with the
intention of writing a work which will, I hope, perpetuate the
ameliorations I have been enabled (through the confidence reposed
in me by your lordship) to introduce in the diets for the
hospitals, as well as the cooking for the army. And this can be
effected in a very short time, without increasing the expense to
the nation, but will, on the contrary, be likely to tend to
economy, it being well recognised by the faculty that change of
food is as essential to the soldier in health as change of diet is
to the invalid. This work will also, with little trouble, have the
effect of making cooks of the soldiers, and teach them at the same
time to make the most of their rations either in camp or in
barracks.
With the most profound respect, I have the honour to remain,
Your Lordship’s obedient servant,
A. SOYER.
USEFUL INVENTIONS
SOYER’S SCUTARI TEAPOT.
This teapot, which is registered, is manufactured by Messrs. Deane and
Dray, London Bridge, and sold by all ironmongers in the kingdom.
[Illustration]
The top of the minaret forms the lid, and the tube which holds the tea,
being moveable, allows every facility for cleaning, and amongst its many
advantages the most prominent are its cheapness, elegance, and
simplicity. It can be made any size.
PATENT ROTARY KNIFE-CLEANER.
Amongst the many tribulations of small families, one of the worst is
knife-cleaning, which is one of the most disagreeable of all household
duties--and what is worse than a dirty knife? Yet where is the house
where the housewife is not well up in the household duties who does not
experience this inconvenience? A gentleman named Detheir, a nephew of
the celebrated Detheir of the Great Northern Hotel, has really invented
a knife-cleaner which ought to be introduced in all public institutions,
commercial houses, and private families. So much do I approve of this
machine as a public boon, that I trust they will be made at such a
moderate price as to come within the reach of all.
INDEX TO ADDENDA.
HOSPITAL DIETS.
Apple Barley Water, 523
Arrowroot Milk, 517
Arrowroot Water, 517
Baked Apple Toast-and-Water, 522
Barley Water, 518
Batter Pudding, 519
Beef Soup, 514
Beef Tea, 514
Boiled Rice, 521
Bread-and-Butter Pudding, 520
Bread Pudding, 520
Browning for Soups, 522
Calf’s-foot Jelly, 516
Cheap Plain Rice Pudding for Campaigning, 519
Chicken Broth, 515
Citronade, 523
Currant Syrup, 523
Custard Pudding, 520
Date Water, 523
Effervescent Beverages, 523
Essence of Beef Tea, 515
Figs and Apple Beverages, 521
Fig Water, 523
French Herb Broth, 522
Jelly Stock, 517
Macaroni Pudding, 520
Mulberry Water, 523
Mutton and Veal Tea, 115
Orange-Flower Water, 523
Pine Apple Syrup, 523
Plain-boiled Rice, 515
Plain Lemonade, 523
Plain Oatmeal, 516
Raisin Water, 523
Raspberry Water, 523
Rice with Gravy, 516
Rich Rice Pudding, 520
Rice Water, 518
Sago Jelly, 517
Sago Pudding, 521
Semi-citric Lemonade, 518
Semi-stewed Mutton and Barley Soup for one hundred Men, 513
Soyer’s Cheap Lemonade, 519
Soyer’s Plain Lemonade, 518
Spring Drink, 523
Stewed French Plums, 521
Stewed Macaroni, 520
Strengthening Beef Tea, 515
Summer Drink, 523
Sweet Rice, 516
Syrup of Orgeat, 523
Tapioca Pudding, 521
Tartaric Lemonade, 519
Thick Arrowroot Milk, 517
Thick Beef Tea, 515
Toast-and-Water, 522
ARMY RECEIPTS.
Army Soup for fifty Men, 526
Baking and Roasting with the Field Stove, 528
Baking in Oven, 529
Beef Soup, 532
Camp Soup, 531
Cocoa for eighty Men, 530
Coffee for ten or eighty Men, 529
Easy way of Cooking in Earthen Pan, 530
French Beef Soup, or Pot-au-Feu, 530
How to Soak and Plain-boil Rations of Salt Beef and
Pork on Land and at Sea, 525
How to Cook for a Regiment of one thousand Men, 527
Pea Soup, 532
Plain Irish Stew for fifty Men, 527
Receipts for Frying-pan, 532
Salt Meat for fifty Men, 525
Salt Pork, with Mashed Peas, for one hundred Men, 562
Salt Pork and Pudding, with Cabbage and Potatoes, 527
Semi-Frying, Camp Fashion, 530
Soyer’s Food for one hundred Men, for using two stoves, 527
Stewed Salt Beef and Pork for one hundred Men, or a Regiment
of one thousand Men, 526
Stewed Fresh Beef and Rice, 532
Suet Dumplings, 533
Tea for eighty Men, 529
Turkish Pilaff for one hundred Men, 528
BILL OF FARE FOR LONDON SUPPERS.
Battered Eggs with Mushrooms, 546
Battered Eggs with Sprue Grass, 546
Bouillabaisse Anglicised, 550
Ditto, Second Class, 550
Chicken, American fashion, 549
Chipped or ribboned Potatoes, 548
Chop or Steak à la Sultana, 536
Chops semi-Provençal, or Marseilles fashion, 536
Cold Asparagus Salad, 549
Crab Salad, 543
Crabs au Gratin in the Shell, 541
Curried Eggs, 547
Curried Tripe, 539
Eggs with Tomato Sauce, 547
Eggs with chopped Ham or Tongue, 546
Eggs with Mushrooms, 546
Eggs with Truffles, 546
Eggs with Sprue Grass, 547
Eggs à la Bonne Femme, 547
Eggs au Miroir with Ham or Bacon, 546
Eggs à la Tripe or Onion Sauce, 547
Endive Salad, 544
Fillet de Bœuf, Parisian fashion, 535
Fillet de Bœuf, semi-Chateaubriant, 536
Fried Oysters, New York way, 542
Fried Potatoes, 547
Fried Potatoes with Maître d’Hôtel Butter, 548
Fried Potatoes with Cayenne Pepper, 548
Game for Supper, 542
Gratin Tripe in Shell, 539
Grilled Chicken with Sharp Sauce, 539
Ham and Bacon Omelettes, 545
Ham with Shalots, Parsley, and Chervil, 546
Herring à la Rob Roy, 549
Kidneys Saute, with Sherry, Port, or Champagne, 537
Kidney Toast, 537
Lamb Chops à l’Africaine, 538
Lamb Chops à la Printaniere, 538
Lamb Chops à la Boulogne, 538
Lamb’s Fry, 540
Lobster Curry, 540
Lobster Curry in Shell, 540
Lobster au Gratin, 540
Lobster Cutlets, 540
Lobster Salad, 543
Minced Sandwiches, 536
Mirrored Eggs, 546
Mushroom Kidney Sandwich, 536
Mutton and Lamb Cutlets à la Bouchère, 535
Mutton and Lamb Cutlets semi-Bouchère, 535
Mutton, Lamb, or Veal Cutlets, en Papillote, 537
Mutton or Lamb Chops à la Turc, 540
New Potato Salad, German fashion, 549
Ditto, with French or Haricôt Beans, 549
Omelettes with fine Herbs, 544
Omelettes with Mushrooms 545
Omelettes with Sprue Grass, 545
Omelettes with Parmesan, 545
Oysters stewed American fashion, 542
Plain Mutton Chops and Steaks, 535
Plain Salad with Anchovies, 544
Poached Eggs with Cream, 545
Poached Eggs with Maître d’Hôtel Butter, 545
Poached Eggs semi-curried with Ham or Bacon, 545
Pork Chops à la Tartare, 538
Pork Chops with Pimento Butter, 538
Rarebit à la Soyer, with Sherry or Champagne, 547
Relishing Steak, 535
Rumpsteak and Potatoes, 534
Salad, new, Tartar fashion, 543
Sandwiches for Evening Parties, 540
Sauces, List of, 551 to 554
Scalloped Lobster, 540
Semi-curried kidneys, 537
Soyer’s Broiling or Universal Devil, 539
Soyer’s Grouse Salad, 543
Soyer’s Universal Devil Mixture, 548
Ditto for the Million, 549
Soyer’s Balaklava Nectar, 560
Soyer’s Crimean Cup à la Wyndham, 550
Stewed Tripe, 539
Stewed Oysters on toast, 542
Tripe Lyonnaise fashion, 539
A SERIES OF RECEIPTS FOR THE NEEDY, 555 TO 566.
ANECDOTES, ETC.
The Duke of Cambridge’s Head-Quarters prior to the Battle of Inkermann, 567
A Visit to Dolma Batchi Palace, 570
The Travelling Gentleman of the Crimea, 573
The Consumption Hospital, 574
Copies of Letters, 575 to 591
Patent Rotary Knife Cleaner, 593
LONDON:
SAVILL AND EDWARDS, PRINTERS, CHANDOS STREET,
COVENT-GARDEN.
* * * * *
SOYER’S SULTANA’S SAUCE, Analysed by Dr. Hassall.
I have examined with much care several samples of M. SOYER’S NEW EASTERN
OR SULTANA SAUCE, and I am of opinion that it is an excellent
preparation. While it is a good stomachic, its flavour is delicious;
moreover the ingredients of which it is composed are of the purest and
most wholesome description.
ARTHUR WILLIAM HASSALL, M.D.,
Author of “Food and its Adulterations,” “Adulterations
Detected,” &c. &c.
8, BENNETT STREET, ST. JAMES’S STREET,
_14th August, 1857_.
[Illustration]
SOLE AGENTS--MESSRS. CROSSE AND BLACKWELL.
[Illustration: THE SULTANA’S SAUCE
Is an entirely New Concoction, in which most wholesome Oriental
Ingredients and Aromatic Herbs are introduced. It is at once appetizing
and nutritious, and applicable to all kinds of cold Meat, Hashes, Stews,
Chops, Steaks, Fish, Soups, Poultry, and above all, Salads. A small
quantity will suffice to give a most exquisite relish to any of the
above dishes.]
FOOTNOTES:
[1] He also approved of my observation, that I was well aware that
people could not expect to find those dishes on the bill of fare every
day, but only one or two nightly. To insure success, I would advise the
proprietors of all extensive supper-houses to adopt the plan I so
successfully introduced at the Reform Club many years since, which was
to make a small bill of fare of eight or ten dishes which were ready,
and cross out such as run short during the evening, recommending only
those which remained. This saved time, words, and confusion; besides
giving an opportunity of introducing one or two novelties daily, which
would pay well if properly attended to. It would also gratify the
consumer, who should not be kept waiting for his supper till fresh
provisions were sent for and cooked, as at that hour many persons would
content themselves with a less variety of dishes rather than wait.
[2] For Receipts, see Addenda.
[3] This spot is little known to the English in general, and to many who
have travelled over the world; but as no such delightful place exists
anywhere but in England, how can it possibly interest an Englishman?
First of all, it is too close for the wealthy, and too far for the
people, being six miles by coach from either Windsor or Staines. During
the five months I spent there last summer, the greatest number of
visitors I counted daily was about twenty or thirty round the lake,
which is seven and a half miles in circumference. I should also observe
that Louis Napoleon, being a man of great taste, has imitated it in the
Bois de Bologne as nearly as possible; and by going there, every
Englishman will have an idea of that which he possesses at home, without
troubling himself, while in London, to go as far as Virginia Water.
[4] I have since learned that this gentleman during the campaign did so
much good, and was so earnest in his endeavours to relieve the
sufferings of the wounded at the battle of Inkermann, the allied as well
as the Russian troops, that I intend to devote a page of this work to
him, and also mention the names of the generals and others who spoke in
such high terms of his exertions.
[5] I had bought a cash-belt, but upon trying it, on the point of our
departure, I found it too short. This circumstance caused me to place
everything in my pocket-book.
[6] That his Majesty was going early in March to the Crimea I can assert
as a positive fact. Having met with many unbelievers on this subject in
the Crimea is the cause of my relating this anecdote; and no doubt
nothing but the following unexpected news could have prevented his
majesty from following out his determination.
[7] A magnificent palace, dedicated to the Empress Eugénie, designed by
the Emperor, is now in course of erection near the spot.
[8] This remark may probably come to the notice of his friends, and lead
to a monument being erected to his memory, which, no doubt, he well
deserves.
[9] I earnestly recommend the adoption of this plan in every public
institution, civil or military. For example, put in the caldron, which
we will suppose holds fifty gallons, so much water, so many pounds of
meat, vegetables, salt, pepper, and sugar; add the barley, light the
fire; stir now and then with a long wooden spaddle to prevent the barley
sticking at the bottom of the caldron; when boiling, reduce the fire.
Simmer gently two and a half hours, if mutton is used; if beef, three
hours. Never skim it, only take the fat off, if any, which use for other
purposes, or instead of butter (see Hospital receipt in Addenda). If two
or more boilers are required, the quantities given in the scale only
need increasing.
[10] If I dwell so minutely upon these apparently frivolous details, it
is only because I wish to show that I did not introduce anything until
it had first met with the approval of the medical gentlemen.
[11] I believe I am correct in stating that, in the French army, one
soldier has to cook for a squad of sixteen men, while in camp: and that
he has charge of two canteen kettles. I always saw five or six men
cooking for a company in each kitchen; there were ten kitchens to a
regiment of ten companies. This the soldiers told me themselves.
I make this remark to corroborate what I afterwards said in Paris before
several French officers who contradicted me, but who, I believe, were
not in the Crimean war. They stated that they only had two cooks to one
company while campaigning. Upon making inquiries of a corporal who had
charge of that department in his regiment while in the Crimea, he
assured me that it was one man to each kettle, and not one to
two--afterwards divided into two messes, forming a squad of nine or ten
men, which would be equal to one hundred men to a regiment of one
thousand in strength, instead of eight, as I at first calculated, or
about ten squads to a company. While in barracks, comparatively
speaking, it only requires a few men per regiment.
[12] If I have here related this anecdote, it is with the intention of
showing the effect produced by the report upon all engaged in the
hospitals, who felt that a gentleman of that age, though very capable,
might, with his antique notions, upset what was then going on so well.
[13] I have such confidence in the nutritive qualities and the
importance to the army and navy of these bread-biscuits, that I intend
to recommend their adoption in both departments. For a campaign they are
invaluable; and at sea they would make an excellent change, being as
light as bread.
[14] The difficulty of recollecting the names and the rank of military
men in the Crimea is great. This is particularly the case with me. The
performance of my manifold duties compelled me to cross and re-cross
hundreds of times from vessel to vessel, hospital to hospital, and camp
to camp. I met and received attentions and aid from numbers, of whom it
is impossible to retain more than a slight photographic sketch of their
noble Saxon countenances. From the peculiarity of my costume, I was
almost as well known to every one in the camp as a _chien du régiment_.
I offer this explanation as an apology to any one whom I may have
inadvertently annoyed--if any such there be--in my account of my Crimean
campaign, by not giving the proper rank or name.
[15] A peculiar kind of turbot found in the Black Sea, with scales, each
scale something like the head of a large iron nail; and though, when the
fish is thickly covered, it in a measure spoils its appearance, yet it
does not in the slightest interfere with the quality, but, on the
contrary, leaves a gelatinous succulence round it, entirely peculiar to
this rough-outfitted denizen of the ocean.
[16] Sir Michael Shaw Stewart’s sister.
[17] This is the ancient who, after partaking of the best dinner ever
prepared, unfortunately inquired of his private secretary how his cash
account stood, and finding that he had only a few millions of dollars
remaining, for fear of being in future obliged to dine badly, or at
least compelled to curtail his incalculable expenditure, one day dined
magnificently by himself, and ordering the most luxurious banquet that
Rome could boast of. On that solemn occasion, though there were enough
culinary _chefs-d’œuvre_ to delight an immense number of epicures, he
only invited himself! “Sublime idea!” he ejaculated; “after dining like
two Vitelliuses, or several Luculluses, to die in the midst of plenty!”
Thereupon he swallowed poison, and was found dead at the head of his
table.
[18] Ahmet Pacha, who speaks French, has his country residence at the
_greater_ Chamlija; and that of Selim Pacha, where we dined, is in the
_lesser_ Chamlija.
[19] That kitchen was put up at the South Union Workhouse, where no
doubt it still remains. In some institutions steam tubes have since been
introduced into the boiler amongst the food. This, I beg to say, forms
no part of my plan, as has been publicly reported. I disapprove of the
system altogether, for many reasons, which it would be out of place to
discuss in this work.
[20] He related the following anecdote of something that had passed
between him and Sir John Campbell, on the eve of the attack of the 18th
of June. Sir John had for some time inquired after him, and at last
meeting him going to his master’s quarters, called out and said,
“François, how much am I in your debt?”
“Why, Colonel, it is only the middle of the month; I will give you your
small bill at the end.”
“No, no,” said Sir John, “I want it now, François.”
“Have I offended you, Colonel?”
“Offended me, no! on the contrary, I am much obliged to you for your
kind services; but the end of this month may be to-morrow for me, as we
shall have a terrible attack upon the Redan; so I want to settle all my
little affairs to-day.”
“Oh, I’m sure, General, it will be all right.”
“Indeed I must have it--how much does it amount to?”
“Well, General, if I must, I must--it is one pound seventeen, or
somewhere thereabouts.”
The General wished him good night, and with a smile upon his countenance
returned to his cave, and François to his duty. That noble-hearted man
seemed to have a presentiment that he should not survive the attack. The
tears stood in his eyes while he was relating this to me, and I found my
own in much the same state in listening to the recital.
[21] A few days after, his Majesty honoured with his presence the grand
anniversary ball given at the French Embassy by Monsieur Thouvenel, the
French ambassador. It was also very splendid, but not being a fancy one,
did not offer the same points of interest. The English ball had the
advantage of being the first ever attended by a Moslem monarch:
nevertheless, his Sublime Majesty remained longer at the latter than at
the former, having, doubtless, taken a fancy to our European social
customs.
[22] When I say “according to common sense,” I am speaking within
bounds. Salt and pepper, fresh and preserved vegetables (the latter
either in tins or in cakes), were distributed from the regimental
quartermaster’s stores to the cooks of each company for three days’
consumption at a time. The consequence was that, in a couple of days,
and sometimes in one, the three days’ rations had either been consumed
or were wasted. The first day, the soup or other food was badly
prepared, on account of the excess of these ingredients; and it was
still worse on the following days, on account of their being short of
all with the exception of the meat, which was therefore boiled in plain
water with rice, but often without either salt or vegetables. The food
was thus rendered insipid and unwholesome. Such was the system I found
in general use, and it was a great pity, seeing the Government had so
liberally provided all that was required. Proper regulation was all that
was needed in order to increase the comforts of the men. The meals of
the whole army constitute a very important matter. Any improvement was
certain to be felt daily; for can anything be more unpalatable than a
piece of fresh beef boiled in plain water, without seasoning? There was
no salt to eat with it, although plenty was allowed for each man. This
is what I call want of attention and lack of common sense. I do not mean
to say this was always the case, as some quartermasters, who noticed the
evil, distributed the vegetables daily, instead of for three days at
once. Many of the men were intelligent enough to divide the allowance,
but the greater number were very careless; it therefore became of the
utmost importance to establish a rule which would not leave them the
chance of doing wrong. The great evil is, that after being thus deprived
of salt for a day or two, they then receive salt rations, which they
boil in small tin camp-kettles, and without soaking, in merely a few
pints of water, which becomes like so much brine. Thus various diseases,
which are seldom attributed to the real cause, are engendered, and all
medicinal equilibrium is completely upset. The rectifying of this was
one of the numerous difficulties I had to encounter during my mission.
[23] For a regiment of one thousand men, increase the number of stoves
in proportion. If one hundred regiments are to be cooked for, repeat the
same in each regiment, when you will have cooked enough food to
perfection without much trouble for an army of one hundred thousand men,
at the same time effecting a saving of above 400 per cent. in fuel.
[24] For letters of approval from generals of division, colonels in
command of regiments, medical and other authorities, see Addenda.
[25] A few hundred yards further, where the French review had taken
place, on an ill-selected spot, the dust was blinding both to men and
horses, the wind being very high.
[26] It was commenced by General Bentinck, continued by General Wyndham
and Lord W. Paulet, and finished by General Garrett. It was situated on
the spot once inhabited by Sir John Campbell. The Duke of Newcastle also
had his tent pitched there during his stay in the Crimea, not fifty
yards from the place where General Cathcart and other great heroes are
interred. The reader’s humble and respectful servant is not a little
proud to have had the honour of having his last culinary encampment,
called Soyer’s Villarette, on that celebrated and glorious locality.
[27] Upon my asking General Garrett the reason why the lunch was fixed
so early, “So early, say you!” answered the general, laughing. “What do
you think? When I asked Major-General Vassileffsky what was the most
convenient time for him to pay me a visit, his reply was--from four to
five in the morning.”
“Which, no doubt, general, you thought too late, or too early.”
“True enough,” said the general.
[28] Lately published by George Routledge & Co.
[29] I take this opportunity of informing Monsieur le Conte de Maison,
to whom I shall do myself the pleasure of sending a copy of this work,
that the disappointment was on our side, and that--the captain in
particular--all regretted the impossibility of acquainting those
gentlemen with our sudden departure.
[30] Yalta, the place from whence he started, was a distance of forty
miles by road from Balaklava; the journey, however, took the lad six
days, as he did not know the direct road. He also informed me that at
night he used to climb and sleep in a tree, fearing the wild animals,
feeding on wild fruit and beech-nuts.
[31] For a description of the interior of the Palace, see Addenda.
[32] The Maltese culinary productions, and well-provided markets, I must
defer commenting upon till my work entitled “The Culinary Wonders of all
Nations” is produced.
[33] A few days after, I was deputed, by order of the Emperor, to visit
and report on the public kitchen for the working classes in Paris,
called the Fourneaux de l’Impératrice; for description of which see
Addenda.
[34] This receipt, so much approved of by the medical authorities, was
in daily use for more than fifteen months from the date of its
introduction by me.
[35] The following is from the _Lancet_ of August the 22nd,
1857:--“_Dyspeptic._--We recommend our correspondent to try some of M.
Soyer’s new sauce, called the Sultana Sauce. It is made after the
Turkish receipt, its flavour is excellent, and it affords considerable
aid in cases of slow and weak digestion.”
[36] If no oven, put the pan in water three-parts up, and give half an
hour longer. For public institutions, fish, meat, and game may be cooked
in a similar manner, for which receipts refer to my “Shilling Cookery.”
[37] The following receipts were written by me in reply to a request
inserted in the _Times_ in January, 1855. Each receipt is for two men,
but may be increased by adding to the proportions.
[38] Indian corn contains 750 parts of starch, 205 gluten, 30 sugar, 15
tannin. Potatoes contain 200 parts of starch, 40 gluten, 20 sugar.
[39] If hard water is used, add soda.
[40] For the use of the bones, see Receipt No. 9.
[41] If dripping cannot be had, use four pounds of fat.--See Receipt No.
21.
[42] Hot water is the best to use, if convenient.
[43] If colour is required, add a quart of Receipt No. 21.
[44] If bacon cannot be had, the same quantity of solid meat of any kind
will do.
[45] If Indian meal is used, it must be boiled two hours.
[46] Porphyna Purpura--if not to be had, use laver or slook--the ulva
lactuca.
* * * * *
Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:
martys to the science of cookery=> martys to the science of cookery {pg
17}
a letter of introducton=> a letter of introduction {pg 40}
M. Giraldo, who had superintended the disembarkation=> Mr. Giraldo, who
had superintended the disembarkation {pg 62}
transcendantly beautiful=> transcendently beautiful {pg 163}
being but meagrely=> being but meagerly {pg 238}
it wont take you ten minutes=> it won’t take you ten minutes {pg 286}
he created quited a sensation=> he created quite a sensation {pg 334}
I cannot recal where=> I cannot recall where {pg 345}
becomes more nutritous=> becomes more nutritious {pg 514}
cut very then=> cut very thin {pg 517}
a little cayanne=> a little cayenne {pg 549}
in his vists to the above=> in his visits to the above {pg 577}
good opportuties of fully=> good opportunities of fully {pg 582}
Fouth Division=> Fourth Division {pg 583}
don’t recal those things=> don’t recall those things {pg 332}
Eggs au Mivoir with Ham or Bacon, 546=> Eggs au Miroir with Ham or
Bacon, 546 {index}
End of Project Gutenberg's Soyer's Culinary Campaign, by Alexis Soyer