LAST SCENE OF THIS EVENTFUL HISTORY.
Farewell to the Crimea--Last glimpses--A collision--Rough
weather--A strange coincidence--The Russian foundling--His
history--A metamorphosis--The Sultan’s banquet--Sight-seeing at
Constantinople--Last visit to the City of Palaces--“The Culinary
wonder of all nations”--Holiday tour--The Author makes his bow.
On board ship all was bustle and confusion. As the vessel steamed slowly
out, we passed the few remaining steamers, including the bold _Algiers_,
Captain Codrington, which was smoking with might and main. We went
ahead, digging our way through the mountainous waves, which appeared to
have accumulated in the harbour purposely to say farewell, or dash our
brains out against the bulwarks or the perpendicular rocks of the bay.
Black, sulphurous, and reddish clouds were rolling from mountain to
mountain, burying the peaks of each in their course, and giving the
aspect of a universal deluge, by the union of earth to heaven. We could
perceive nothing excepting now and then a glimpse of two white spots:
one was the Sardinian funeral monument, dedicated to their defunct
heroes; the other, the white marble Nightingale Cross, which, as I have
before mentioned, had just been erected by that lady to the memory of
departed heroes, and the deceased Sisters of Charity and Mercy. So rough
a day had not visited us since that eventful one on which Sebastopol had
fallen. It was getting dark, and a misty rain kept falling, which made
any but joyful reminiscences of our final departure from the theatre of
war and the arid soil of the Crimea. The sable veil of night soon fell
over our colossal steamer, the _Argo_, as she pitched and rolled in the
hollow of the sea, having on board three hundred horses--a rather
awkward cargo,--besides having been only recently patched up from some
serious damage she had received in consequence of a collision with a
French man-of-war. It had made a large hole in her, and carried away her
figure-head. She had been for some time in the greatest danger in
consequence of this, and though not materially so on the night of our
departure, the remembrance of the accident was disagreeable enough to
make all uncomfortable and spoil our appetites. A few extras had been
added to the bill of fare in anticipation of the visit of our Russian
friends; but I beg to inform my readers that I and a few of my
_compagnons de voyage_ saw no more of the banquet than did our
much-disappointed guests on shore, who may probably think the invitation
was a joke played off upon them by the captain, and that he was aware of
the time of his departure.[29]
At about eleven, most of the passengers retired to their fully-inhabited
cabin. The captain passed the night upon deck; so did I partly, as
Morpheus often refuses to visit me when I am upon the mighty ocean, in
either rough or smooth weather. Three times was the deck submerged by
the heavy seas; washing the passengers from larboard to starboard, and
_vice versâ_--a sort of gymnastic exercise neither pleasant to man nor
beast. Several horses broke their lashings and fell during those heavy
shocks. The next morning was not more pleasant, but the afternoon turned
out fine. At about three everybody was on deck, cheerfully conversing,
walking, reading, smoking, &c. Nothing, I believe, is so soon forgotten
as rough weather at sea, especially when the sun favours one with a few
brilliant smiles. The dinner-table was well attended, and everybody very
chatty. I sat near the captain and General Garrett. The former (whose
anxiety seemed to have entirely disappeared) said to me, “I am going to
relate a curious incident respecting yourself, Monsieur, of which you
are perhaps not aware, but you will call it to mind when I tell you.”
“What is it? I hope it is nothing likely to bring me into discredit, or
to shock my modesty?”
“On the contrary, it is all in your favour.”
“Such being the case, pray proceed. What think you, General Garrett?”
said I.
“By all means,” he replied.
“Do you remember,” the captain began, “on the morning of the 8th
September, as you were coming back to your camp, meeting with two naval
officers who were endeavouring to pass the lines in order to get to
Cathcart’s Hill and have a sight of the storming of Sebastopol?”
“That I do; and what’s more extraordinary, I do not know their names: in
fact, I could not make out who they were, nor where they came from.”
“These are the very points on which I am about to enlighten you. You
rendered them an important service on that occasion by your hospitality,
for which I can assure you they are even to this day very grateful.”
“They were very welcome; but who were they?”
“At the time the adventure occurred, they both belonged to this ship:
one was our doctor, and the other the son of a member of the company,
who intends, upon your arrival in England, to give you an invitation to
spend a few days at his seat near Southampton.”
“I am much obliged; but pray, when you see them, say I am already highly
repaid for anything I did, as it was entirely through them I had the
high honour of dining with General Windham upon the day on which he
immortalized himself as the hero of the Redan.”
“You don’t say so!” exclaimed the captain.
Perceiving his astonishment, I related the circumstances mentioned in a
former chapter. Of course these were well known to General Garrett.
It was with regret I was leaving the Crimea without knowing the heroes
of this simple, though to me singular, adventure. How strange it is that
at last, and upon my way home, I should ascertain that which I had so
often inquired about!
A few rounds of champagne to their health and prosperity terminated this
singular affair.
The invalided _Argo_ had regained her perpendicular upon the smooth
surface of the ocean, and stood as firm as St. Paul’s upon its
foundations. In fact, the good vessel appeared quite motionless, and
made our ocean saloon as lively as any upon _terra firma_. The night
seemed to be jealous of the fineness of the day, and not a breath of
wind disturbed its serenity. The unwieldy ship glided over the sea,
which flashed as though it had been a lake of diamonds. The breeze was
just strong enough to fill the few sails spread to catch it. Every one
was upon deck, as busy as bees upon a hot summer’s day. The order was
given to muster the soldiers and lower-deck passengers, and in a few
minutes they were all upon the main-deck. Amongst them appeared a lad
all in rags, barefooted, and with a black and a blue eye. His dirty,
ragged jacket was covered with blood and mud. He stood cross-legged and
leaning upon his elbow against the coping of the bulwarks, his right
hand thrust in the hole where a pocket had no doubt once existed. The
lad, in spite of his attire, looked as brisk and independent as a modern
Diogenes or a Robert Macaire. To the questions put to him by the
captain, he replied somewhat in the style of the Grecian philosopher to
Alexander the Great. There was, however, this difference--those great
men understood each other, while the captain’s English was entirely lost
upon the ragged hero. After several attempts and failures on the part of
the captain, a gentleman, Mr. Souter, who spoke the Russian language,
interrogated him, and asked him how he got on board. His reply was,
“With the baggage, to be sure.” He then, boldly and in a fine tone of
voice, suiting the action to the word, told the following tale:--“I am
an orphan and a Russian serf belonging to Prince Meshersky. My name is
Daniel Maximovitch Chimachenka; and since my owner, the prince, went to
the war, the serfs have been much ill-treated by the agent in charge.
This was particularly the case with myself, as I was attached to the
agent’s personal service. He beat me daily, and gave me scarcely
anything to eat. One day, two English officers passed through the
village, and I held their horses for them while they took some
refreshment. When they came out, they gave me a shilling. Though it was
nearly dark, I watched the road they went, and followed them at a
distance. After walking some time, I lost sight of them, and slept in
the wood till daybreak. Two days after, having travelled through forests
and over mountains in order to avoid detection, I found myself at
Balaklava. This was only just before the departure of the fleet. I was
determined to follow those kind people the English, who had given me so
much money for so little work. Being aware that you were all going away,
I bethought myself of hiding on board one of your ships, thinking that
when discovered you could not treat me worse than the prince’s agent had
done. I made the attempt in two different vessels, but was discovered
and put on shore again. This vessel being one of the last, I went on
board assisting some Maltese sailors with the luggage, and amidst the
bustle managed to hide away amongst the horses.” In this manner the
youth got to Constantinople.
The following letter, published in the journal of that city, will inform
my readers of the rest:--
Monsieur Soyer, now so well known in the East, has taken under his
protection a Russian boy who was in the greatest destitution,
having stowed himself away on board the steam-ship _Argo_ at
Balaklava. He was only discovered when the muster of soldiers and
deck-passengers was called. The poor lad was in rags and
barefooted. He had received a terrible contusion on the head, and
his black swollen eyes and blood-stained face rendered his
appearance anything but prepossessing. Being cross-questioned by a
passenger who understood Russian, he stated that he got on board
under pretence of assisting the sailors with some luggage, and
contrived to hide himself amongst the horses till the ship was at
sea, fearing that he should be put on shore, as had already
happened to him twice before. During the night, he came upon deck
and fell asleep. About three in the morning, a violent hurricane
came on, and a heavy sea broke over the bows, nearly washing the
soldiers and himself overboard. It was at this juncture that he
received the contusion, and became for some time senseless. He
asked for nothing to eat during the passage, fearing discovery, but
satisfied the cravings of hunger with orange-peel and pieces of
broken biscuit, which the soldiers had thrown about the deck. He
said that he was an orphan, twelve years old, and left his native
village through the ill-treatment of his owner’s agent. Some
English gentlemen, in passing through the village, gave him a piece
of money for holding their horses; so he decided upon following
such kind people, in the hope of obtaining employment and living
amongst them.[30] He appears very intelligent, and is quite
indignant at being taken for a Tartar. He is, he says, a true
Russian. Instead of allowing him to be turned adrift in
Constantinople, Monsieur Soyer claimed and took him under his
protection, taking a certificate from the captain to that effect,
in presence of General Garrett and his Staff, who were passengers
on board the _Argo_. As he is now free, no doubt a prosperous
future is in store for the poor Russian lad, through the kindness
of Monsieur Soyer.--_Journal de Constantinople et Echo de
l’Orient_, Thursday, 21st July, 1856.
[Illustration: THE BOY AS FOUND.]
[Illustration: THE BOY AS HE IS.]
While on shore at Constantinople, I sent this unsightly and
dirty-looking urchin to a Turkish bath, and by this simple, “gentle,”
and delightful Oriental process removed two or three coats of dirt from
his skin. I had a suit of livery _à la Russe_ made for him, which
greatly improved his appearance. When quite recovered from the effects
of his bruises and black eye, he turned out to be a very smart, clean,
and extremely intelligent lad. So grateful was he for my kindness, that
he came every morning at six o’clock to fetch my clothes to brush,
kissing my hands at the same time, whether awake or asleep, as a mark of
his gratitude. I have him with me in London, and intend to educate him,
and hope he will turn out a good man of business and useful to society.
It is most probable that had he been left to himself in Constantinople,
he would have become a great rascal or a thief; for he possesses enough
intelligence to be either a clever, honest man, or an arrant rogue.
We were anchored in the Bosphorus, opposite the Barrack Hospital. It was
about ten in the morning. Everybody had an extra wash upon the occasion,
and all were dressed in their best. The weather was very warm and fine,
and all appeared gay and merry. General Garrett being anxious to see the
wonders of the Mahomedan city, I offered, as I was now pretty well
acquainted with its _chefs-d’œuvre_, to be his _cicerone_, which
offer he immediately accepted. We started, accompanied by Colonel Hughes
and Major Dallas. After paying our respects to Admiral Grey at the
Admiralty, we hired two caiques and repaired to the ancient quarter of
Stamboul. There we took horses, and for six hours ascended and descended
the intolerable muddy and badly-paved streets of the real
Constantinople, where are to be seen so many Mussulman works of
art--viz.: St. Sophia, the Bazaar, Seraglio Palace, and Hippodrome, &c.
&c. &c., with which the general and suite were much delighted. Our
intention was to dine at Messirie’s Hotel, and we had just arrived
there, when we were informed that the Sultan that day intended to give a
grand dinner in honour of Generals Pelissier and Codrington. Captain
Hall, who brought the news, requested General Garrett to pay an
immediate visit to Lord Redcliffe, adding, that no doubt the ambassador
would wish him to be present. General Garrett replied--“It would be
utterly impossible for me to be present at the ceremony, inasmuch as I
cannot get my uniform, which is at the bottom of the hold of the _Argo_.
I will, however, pay my respects to Lord Stratford.”
We immediately started for that purpose. The general remained some time
with our ambassador, and upon coming out informed us of the kind
reception and invitation he had received to be present at the grand
Dolma Batchi Palace banquet, saying he must manage to go somehow. The
only difficulty was to get his own uniform, or any other that would fit
him, for the occasion. I merely left my card at the Embassy, intending
to pay my respects to Lord Stratford some other day.
This banquet had been postponed for several days, on account of the
non-arrival of Sir W. Codrington from Balaklava. The dinner was at last
decided to take place on the 18th of July, 1856, at seven o’clock. The
English general had not arrived, but was hourly expected. About three
P.M. his ship appeared in sight, and at five entered the Bosphorus. All
on board who were invited were ready dressed; so they only had to
disembark at the splendid marble terrace which forms the landing-place
of the Sultan’s new palace of Dolma Batchi, where numerous attendants
were waiting to receive them. But, as usual, “Man proposes, and God
disposes.” The severe gale we encountered on leaving Balaklava, far from
sparing the great _Algiers_, had delayed her more than it did our good
ship. While passing in front of Therapia, her progress was again
arrested by one of the most furious hurricanes ever known in the
Bosphorus.
The illustrious guests had arrived minus the Commander-in-chief, who was
expected every minute. They were sitting in the grand reception-room.
The dinner-hour arrived, and the doors of the magnificent Mahomedan
hall were thrown open to the assembled guests. They were amazed at the
splendour and richness of the architecture of that cathedral-like
throne-room, which is a perfect copy of St. Sophia on a very splendid
scale, the dome being only fourteen feet less in height than that of St.
Sophia. The appearance of the table, placed in the centre, though very
large and well garnished with elegant table ornaments, fruits, flowers,
and a most _recherché_ dessert, left, as far as the dinner goes, much to
desire. The mixture of French and Turkish cookery, of which I much
approve, would have been preferable to all French, so difficult of
perfect execution, particularly at Constantinople. As a whole, the
_coup-d’œil_ was perfectly pyramidal and magical. The guests were
seated according to rank and precedence, and each had his name and
number on his plate, which plan prevented any confusion. The soup, as
well as several _hors-d’œuvres_ and other dishes, had been handed
round, when a tremendous hurricane shook the frame of the stupendous
edifice, extinguished the lights in the orchestra, and made the colossal
chandelier (perhaps the largest in the world) swing to and fro until
fears were entertained of its falling. For a short time we were
uncertain whether it was a hurricane or an earthquake; and though the
festive board was encircled by old invincibles whom the cannon of
Sebastopol had never unnerved for a minute, it must be confessed that
the fear of an earthquake produced an ominous silence.
In a short time the music recommenced, and every one was himself again.
The busy traffic of a large banquet had resumed its regular course; the
guests had forgotten this vexatious event, and were conversing
cheerfully. When the dinner had been removed, and the dessert was placed
upon the table, the band played the “Sultan’s Grand March,” and his
Sublime Majesty entered in all his Oriental pomp, followed by the
dignitaries of the empire. This pageant was indeed worthy of the antique
style of Oriental grandeur. Still, it is to be regretted that it had
lost much of its magnificence from having been simplified and
modernized. After this gracious mark of cordial union between the
Mahomedan monarch and his Allied guests, which has been so well and
elegantly described by the public press, the Sultan retired; and thus
ended this sumptuous entertainment, which will ever hold a distinguished
place in the gastronomic annals of nations. It was at least the first,
and probably will prove the last, at which the magnates of three great
nations met together beneath the roof of the great Pacha’s palace to
partake of Mahomedan hospitality _à la Française_, which in my opinion
ought to have been Anglo-Franko, but at all events half Turko.
The only thing to be regretted was the untoward absence of Sir W.
Codrington, which happened as follows:--The _Algiers_ started a few
hours after the _Argo_; but being considerably heavier than that
vessel--being a man of war--and owing to the bad weather and foul winds,
she arrived ten hours after us, instead of four or six, as had been
expected. In spite of this delay, she would have arrived in time, but
for the extraordinary hurricane which came on as she entered the
Bosphorus. Every gentleman invited was dressed and ready to land upon
arriving at Dolma Batchi Stairs. It was all to no purpose; for on coming
before Therapia, the safety of the ship compelled the captain to order
the anchors to be let go; and as no caiques could venture out, it was
impossible to land. My chief reason for mentioning this fact is because
it was reported in Constantinople and Pera that the French and English
commanders of the Allied armies disagreed politically, and would not
meet. Through my friendly influence with important persons in
Constantinople and Pera, I caused this report to be contradicted by the
press, as it might have left an evil impression upon the public mind.
The _Argo_ was to sail about four P.M. the next day. At two I went on
board to claim my Russian _protégé_, and found the boy, who was aware of
my being in Constantinople, and as the steamer was about to sail, had
lost all hope of being rescued by me. In expectation of being landed at
Constantinople and left to the mercy of the world, he was seated on the
poop of the ship, anxiously looking out with the same anxiety as Sister
Anne from the top of the tower, in the tale of _Bluebeard_, to see if
any one was coming. At length he perceived a caique with two caidjees
approaching the ship _Argo_; in it was seated a rather stout gentleman,
dressed in the Oriental style, as he afterwards related, with a large
white round hat, encircled with a turban of white and red gauze, and
wearing a bournous. “It can only be my new master,” exclaimed the boy to
those around--or at all events he made them comprehend as much. Nothing
could exceed the boy’s joy when I set foot upon deck; but, as I was not
aware of his anxiety, I took but little notice of him, as I had many
persons to see in a short space of time. Observing this, the poor lad
began to cry. Had he been retaken, he would have been sent to the mines
for fifteen years, and afterwards as a soldier for life. I requested the
captain to draw up a statement to the effect that the boy had run away
of his own accord, and begged of General Garrett to be present as a
witness; and he was accordingly transmitted to me as a free boy from the
time of his destitution.
The following is a copy of the statement:--
_Steam-ship “Argo,” Constantinople, 16th July, 1856._
I hereby certify that a Russian boy, about twelve or fifteen years
of ago, was found on board this ship after leaving the Crimea. He
states that he came on board for the purpose of getting employment.
His name, he says, is Daniel, and that he was a serf of Prince
Meshersky’s. Monsieur Soyer, a passenger on board, now takes him
into his service, to prevent his starving.
H. B. BENSON, _Commander_.
N.B.--The boy’s name is Daniel Maximovitch Chimachenka. He says he
is an orphan--has been very badly treated by his master’s
steward--and begged of Monsieur Soyer to grant him protection, and
is very willing to go with him wheresoever he pleases rather than
return to his former master. As he was quite destitute on arriving
at Constantinople, Monsieur Soyer is kind enough to take him under
his protection.
I hereby certify that the above is quite correct, having
interrogated the boy in his own language (Russian).
P. POUTEAU, _Kt. S. A._
I then bade a cordial farewell to all my _compagnons de voyage_, who
were very anxious to have my company to London; but I had made up my
mind to take six months’ holiday, and travel wherever my fancy might
lead me, especially to my native city of Meaux, which I had not seen for
twenty-six long years. I also wished to write this work in peace, having
lost my notes. I informed them that I could not have the pleasure of
accompanying them, as I meant to take a Continental tour, but hoped to
meet them in London upon my return, which would probably be in the
beginning of the then ensuing spring.
Wishing to visit at my leisure the civil and military institutions of
this interesting city of Constantine, and, above all, to become well
acquainted with the system of cookery, in which I had already recognised
a deal of merit and originality, I determined to remain some weeks at
Constantinople, as well as to offer to his Sublime Majesty the Sultan,
through the kind intercession of Lord de Redcliffe, to whom I had paid
my humble duty, a complete set of my various culinary works, as well as
my magic and model stoves. I established myself at the hotel, and,
accompanied by a friend, and my Russian boy dressed _à la Cosaque_,
proceeded to visit on horseback all the curiosities of the Mahomedan
city.
As I have already observed, though I frequently wished to inspect
minutely the great metropolis of Constantine, my incessant duties never
allowed me time for this: I therefore now devoted my leisure time to
seeing Constantinople. I had fixed three weeks as the space requisite to
visit in detail the wonders of that city. To do this, I engaged a
dragoman of some intelligence, and requested him to conduct me to every
place worthy of being seen, at the same time acquainting him that three
weeks would be the utmost stay I should make in Constantinople.
Having obtained a firman, or _passe-partout_, we were to be seen flying
from palace to palace, mosque to mosque, bazaar to bazaar, kiosque to
kiosque, hospital to hospital, cemetery to cemetery, prison to prison;
from turning to howling dervishes, and from the Sweet Waters of Europe
to those of Asia, and last, not least, to the Sultan’s kitchen, which to
me was the only object of paramount interest.
Almost every one attached to the army had left the banks of the
Bosphorus and returned to England. Only now and then did one meet a
British uniform in Pera. These were the officers of the Commissariat or
the Turkish Contingent. Amongst the former were Commissaries Smith,
Adams, Osborn, &c.
The post-office and hospitals were given up: Therapia and Buyukderé
alone could boast of possessing the tail of the British army and navy.
General Storks was still on a visit to Lord Stratford de Redcliffe; Sir
Edmund Lyons was on board his splendid man-of-war, the _Royal Albert_,
in the Bosphorus; Admiral Grey had left, and only a few acting naval men
remained at the Admiralty.
I afterwards addressed the following letter which appeared in the
_Times_:--
M. SOYER AT CONSTANTINOPLE.
_To the Editor of the Times._
SIR,--In reply to no end of inquiries from persons meeting me in
the streets of Pera, Bujukderé, Therapia, the Isles des Princes,
&c., as to what I am doing in Turkey now the whole of the army has
gone, and as every one here seems so anxious, probably others may
feel interested, it has struck me, sir, to inform you personally
why I remain here. In the first place, Constantinople and its
vicinity are far from being destitute of vital interest, and those
who have only seen its beauty from the Bosphorus, and then at first
sight condemned the interior of this gigantic city of Constantine,
have seen nothing, and are utterly incompetent to speak of it, much
less to write upon the curiosities, manners, customs, and way of
living, of this singular and almost unknown people, though lodged
nearly in the centre of Europe. Thanks now to my last visit to
Constantinople, which time nor duty did not admit of before, I now
know it and its neighbourhood as well as London, and much better
than Paris. I am pretty well acquainted with Turkish institutions,
as well as manners and habits, which indeed deviate so much from
our fashions that they cannot prove uninteresting to relate, if not
to follow. Though so many authors have written upon Turkey, they
have yet left me several virgin pages, and those pages are upon the
national cookery of the Moslem people.
They have many dishes which are indeed worthy of the table of the
greatest epicure, and I shall not consider my Oriental mission
terminated to my satisfaction till I see in the bills of fare of
France and England their purée de volaille au ris, tomates, et
concombres, and purée de Bahmia aromatisée à la crême, by the side
of our potages à la Reine, Tortue, Jullienne, and Mulligatawny;
near our whitebait, red mullets, turbot, and salmon, their fried
sardines, bar fish, gurnet, sturgeon, red mullets aux herbes,
oyster pilaff, mackerel, salad, &c.; and with our roast beef,
saddle-back of mutton, and haunch of venison, their sheep, lamb, or
kid roasted whole, and the monster and delicious kebab; by our
entrées of suprème de volaille, salmis, and vol-aux-vents, their
doulmas kioftee, sis kebabs, haharram bouton, pilaff au cailles,
&c.; with our vegetables, their Bahmia, fried leeks and celery,
Partligan bastici, and sakath kabac bastici; with our macédoines,
jellies, charlottes, &c., their lokounds, moukahalibi, Baclava
gyneristi, ekmekataive. Their coffee, iced milk, and sherbet--in
fact, all their principal dishes might, with the best advantage, be
adopted and Frenchified and Anglicised. Not so their method of
serving, in which they mix sweet and savoury dishes throughout the
repast; and less likely still their method of eating with their
fingers, though, after several trials, I must admit that it has
some peculiar advantages; their sauces being of a thinnish nature,
require to be absorbed with a piece of bread in order to partake of
them, which could not be performed equally well with a knife or
fork. Their custom of serving only one hot dish at a time is not
new to us, we having borrowed it from the Russians, who probably
took it from the Turks. No nation as yet has been able to boast of
having introduced a single innovation in the way of living to this
singularly incommunicative race, the cause of which I can only
attribute to the immense distance placed between the relative
social position of the two sexes: for while in Europe the “_beau
sexe_” forms the soul of society and sociability, in Turkey they
are kept in entire seclusion, and almost without any kind of
education. My stay here has not only produced me the high honour of
an interview with the Sultan, but also the advantage of becoming
acquainted with one of the most useful and principal officers of
his Sublime Majesty’s household, called the Hachji Bachji, or
general-in-chief of the culinary department of his Sublime Majesty
the Padischah, and he speaks with pride of having held that office
five years with the late Sultan and Padischah Mahmoud, and has now
retained it seventeen years with his present Sublime Majesty.
Independent of the private kitchen of the Sultan, he has under his
command in the various palaces about six hundred men cooks, and had
in the time of Sultan Mahmoud upwards of one thousand. Having
expressed a wish to become acquainted with some of the principal
Turkish dishes, and the way in which the dinner was served, he not
only gave me the required information, but invited me to a dinner,
“_à la Turc_,” at the new palace of Dolma Batchi. We were only four
guests, including himself; above seventy small dishes formed a
luxurious bill of fare, which, after the Turkish fashion, were
partaken of quickly, as the Moslems only taste a mouthful of each
dish which may take their fancy. He then informed me that the
repast we had partaken of was the _fac-simile_ of the dinner daily
served up to his Majesty the Padischah, who always takes his meals
alone, and as no bill of fare is made, every dish in the Turkish
cookery code must be prepared daily throughout the year, and only
varies in quantity according to the abundance or scarcity of the
provisions to be obtained in the various seasons, so that his
Sublime Majesty may find everything he may desire within his
Imperial call. Further details upon this subject I shall give when
I publish my other work, which will be entitled “The Culinary
Wonder of all Nations.”
The Armenian cookery turns very much upon the Turkish style, while
the Greek has a type of its own, which, I regret to say, is far
from meeting with my approbation, though in high Greek families I
have partaken of most excellent dinners; but the Turkish dishes
were always the most satisfactory, the common cookery of the Greeks
being sloppy and greasy, while, _per contra_, the Turk has studied
the art of preserving the essence of all the provisions employed,
which method will at all times produce a palatable as well as a
nutritive food. Prior to my departure, which will be in a few days,
I shall pay a visit to Scutari, to contrast the present state of
that busy spot with its now, as I hear, totally deserted aspect. My
remarks upon this subject I shall do myself the pleasure of sending
in a future letter, in hopes that they may prove interesting to the
thousands who have visited that celebrated place on the Asiatic
side of the Bosphorus.
With the highest consideration, I have the honour to remain,
Sir, your obedient servant,
_Pera, Constantinople, Hotel d’Angleterre_, A. SOYER.
_Sept. 8, 1856._
This visit was more laborious than most persons may imagine, but the
idea of beginning a new and agreeable campaign, after having terminated
a long, dreary, and perilous one, was very pleasing. I was free as
regarded my actions, and my health was partly restored. Shortly after my
arrival at Scutari, my governmental mission as well as hospital duties
ceased, these establishments being closed. I therefore settled
everything with the Purveyor-in-chief, Mr. J. S. Robertson, General
Storks, Miss Nightingale, and Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, who all
honoured me with documents expressive of their high approbation of my
services. Prior to my final departure, I sent the full report of my
proceedings and labours at Scutari, as well as in the camp, to Lord
Stratford de Redcliffe.
The following is his Excellency’s reply:--
THERAPIA, _August 2nd, 1856_.
DEAR MONSIEUR SOYER,--I return you the papers you were good enough
to send for my perusal. The honourable testimonials you have
obtained have been well earned.
I shall have much pleasure in asking the Sultan’s permission as to
your sending him the articles you mention.
Sincerely yours,
STRATFORD DE REDCLIFFE.
A Monsieur
Monsieur Soyer.
The day after the receipt of the above letter from his Excellency I was
summoned by Mr. Etienne Pizanni, the first dragoman of the Embassy, who
left a message at the Hôtel d’Angleterre to the effect that the
following morning I was to be at Topané Cannon Foundry landing-place,
with the various articles I intended to offer for the acceptance of his
Sublime Majesty. At ten o’clock precisely I arrived. The caique of the
Embassy was already waiting. A few minutes after we had crossed the
short and chopping waves, _aux collerettes d’argent_, or bright silver
hue, which, with the morning breeze, take birth in that fairy lake, the
cradle of romance and beauty, as night approaches. Shortly after we were
safely landed on the monster marble quay, the private landing-place of
the Sultan, which proudly unites the Bosphorus with the gigantic palace
of Dolma Batchi; from here we were inducted to the Grand Chamberlain’s
kiosque, where coffee-cups and chiboques of great value, being
ornamented with gold, pearls, emeralds, and diamonds, were filled by
slaves and handed to us, and partaken of with great gusto.
In a few minutes Prince Galamaki was shown into the apartment. He had
come for the purpose of taking leave of his Sublime master prior to
leaving Turkey for his post as ambassador to the Court of Vienna; and
having myself had the honour of knowing this distinguished diplomatist
when he was ambassador to the Court of St. James’s, he at once
recognised me, and the conversation being opened by Mr. Pizanni, we had
a most interesting dialogue on semi-diplomatic matters, embracing a
period of fifteen years.
Two hours had now elapsed. Chibouques and coffee had been handed round
many times, when the Prince remarked that his Majesty was later than
usual. Shortly after, an officer of the palace entered, and desired Mr.
Pizanni and myself to accompany him to the Sultan’s private palace, a
distance of several hundred yards. Crossing a floral carpet of sweet
perfume, interwoven with plots of choice exotic plants and flowers,
marble fountains, vases, baths, &c., we ascended a staircase, and were
introduced to a simply, but costly-furnished apartment, when Mr. Pizanni
remarked that we had already made a near approach to the person of his
Majesty. Hardly had he uttered the remark, when a eunuch entered, and
requested us to follow him. We passed through several long dark
corridors, richly tapestried, and here and there interposed with
coloured glass, which threw a golden-yellow light, reflecting a peculiar
hue on the eunuchs who were here and there stationed, keeping guard.
Silence reigned supreme. We soon reached a very spacious area. A screen
was suddenly removed, when, standing on the summit of a grand crystal
staircase, most brilliantly illuminated with resplendent vermilion glass
shades, stood erect a figure, which, at first sight, I took for an idol
or statue belonging to this enchanting place. Mr. Pizanni advanced, with
great veneration, towards it, bidding me follow, over a highly-polished
glassy-looking floor, which I did not without fear of slipping--when, to
my astonishment, I found myself standing before Abdul Medjid Khan, the
Padischah, who, though simply attired in a rich robe de chambre and a
plain fez,--which I believe is the oriental dress of reception,--the
sublimity of the monarch’s countenance will never be effaced from my
memory. Mr. Pizanni, addressing his Majesty in the Turkish language,
introduced me, when, through that gentleman, I ascertained that his
Majesty wished me well, and that his heart was well disposed towards me
(meaning a great deal in a few words). His Majesty was then informed of
the purport of my mission, commencing at the hospitals of the Bosphorus,
then in the Crimea. His approbation was expressed by the slow movement
of the head from left to right, the body remaining motionless. Then took
place the offering of my various productions, culinary and literary,
eight in number, which lay on a large, richly-ornamented piece of
furniture, in the centre of this large cupola. The simplicity of the
field-stove obtained his Majesty’s high approbation. “I well understand
them,” said he, talking all the time to Mr. Pizanni, who translated word
for word to me. After having complimented me very highly on the services
of my undertaking, “I am much pleased,” were the last words his Majesty
uttered. We then retreated backwards. Though the conversation had been
varied and animated, not a movement on the part of his Majesty did I
perceive all the twenty minutes we were conversing. We left the idol as
we found it.[31]
* * * * *
The time fixed for my stay in the far-famed city of Constantinople was
fast drawing to a close; a short visit to the Isles des Princes, that
focus of nightly revels, was to put a final seal to my Mahometan review.
I went there on a Sunday, and had the pleasure of meeting, amongst
thousands, with Admiral Lyons and his maritime staff. Here monks,
caidjees, donkeys, green fruit, cakes, fireworks, and gambling-tables
thrive in a most flourishing manner. As the night approached, the
Admiral left to join his ship, escorted down the silvery Bosphorus by
hundreds of lighted torches, and shouts from thousands of visitors. The
next day I was on board the _Albert_, anchored before Bujukdéré, and
bade adieu to the gallant admiral. I then paid my farewell respects to
his Excellency Lord de Redcliffe and his family; the day was now fixed
for my departure, everything was packed up, and my Russian boy, Daniel
Maximovitch Chimachenka, had, with the greatest intelligence and
delight, corded my last box, and seemed as if he was already breathing
the air of freedom. For some time previous, a monster gipsy party had
been in embryo; illness had prevented this rural festivity coming off,
but on my return to Pera, it was luckily fixed for the following
day--the illustrious Mr. Messirie being the giver of this monster
pic-nic. At five the next morning every one was attired in their best
summer array, and streams of people were pouring from all directions to
the Galata Pier. A steamer, gaily trimmed, was waiting for the guests.
When all were on board, the paddles commenced their revolutions; and, as
we floated along the limpid bay of the Golden Horn, Greek music kept
time with our race. Soon we arrived at Therapia, and landed on the pier
of the Hôtel d’Angleterre, where light refreshments were provided for
the innumerable guests. About forty caiques with double caidjees were
waiting near the shore, while two caiques of large dimensions were
filled with instrumental musicians. We then all started, crossing the
Bosphorus towards Ibraham Pasha’s marble palace, and to the melodious
sound of the music, we landed in one of the many pretty valleys of which
the Bosphorus alone can boast; it was called the Sultana, near the
Sultan’s valley. Such a culinary encampment I never before beheld; four
men-cooks were busily engaged in dishing up sixteen hot _entrées_, fowls
were being grilled, quails and dotrelles were being roasted, kaboub
frizzling, and all kinds of fish were submitted to the science of
cookery; four sheep and two lambs were roasted whole in the adjacent
forest, while a table for about a hundred and fifty people was laid out
under the shadowy folds of a huge tree, luxuriously situated at the base
of a delightful Turkish fountain; sherbet, ices, jam, and cakes were
also freely partaken of. At twelve, to the minute, the open-air banquet
was placed upon the table, and soon the warning note of the tum-tum
assembled all around it. Oriental fruit and flowers profusely ornamented
the festive board, while Smyrna melons of large dimensions perfumed the
air. The banquet lasted two hours, after which dancing and oriental
games were in full swing in all directions, including the Greek,
Armenian, and Albany dances, accompanied by the twang of music, to the
great delight of the participators, as well as the admiration of several
hundred Turkish spectators, both men and women, dressed in their best,
this being their Sabbath. It gave this scene a purely oriental aspect,
which cannot be beheld anywhere but under the heavenly paradise of
Mahomet. As the evening approached, more animated became the party, and
no finale could have wound up the day’s fun better than the dance of all
creeds, each dancer holding a lighted torch, which flickered about the
forest like so many will-o’-the-wisps. Turkish fireworks terminated this
day of romance, which ended to the sorrow of all. Iron pots elevated on
poles, along the shore, filled with wood and vitriol, were then fired,
throwing a blaze of light on the caidjees, who were gaily fluttering
round the shore on the agitated ripples of the Bosphorus; each caique,
headed by its pot of fire--blue, green, or yellow--bands of music,
hurrahs of twelve times three to Mr. Messirie, the donor of this
magnificent fête, and at midnight, landing at Therapia terminated this
ever to be remembered day.
My last day was devoted to my grand review of the Asiatic shore, Barrack
Hospital, &c., and I devoted the morning hour to my final call on
numerous oriental friends from whom I had received so much kindness and
friendship during my long sojourn in the East.
Arriving early the next morning at Smyrna, where forests of fig-trees
abound, caravans of camels and noted brigands thrive--while at the Hôtel
des deux Augustes, I wrote my Scutari journal, of which the following is
a copy, being the continuation of that which appears at page 496:
HÔTEL DES DEUX AUGUSTES, SMYRNA,
_September 14th, 1856_.
Having devoted my last day in Constantinople to visit the Asiatic
side of the Bosphorus, I and a few friends went accordingly to
Scutari. Our first visit was to the Selinie Quicklaci, so well
known by the English as the Barrack Hospital, in anticipation of
gathering the latest details relating to that once so celebrated
spot. We found it occupied by four thousand Turkish soldiers of the
Imperial Guard, lately arrived from Erzeroum. Ten or twelve
thousand is the number it will hold; but at a pinch, as we were
informed by one of the officers, “and no one acquainted with the
place can doubt it,” fifteen thousand may be quartered in this
monster barracks, which, in consequence of the events of the last
three years, will be long remembered in the history of England.
After some formalities, we obtained permission from the governor,
Selim Pacha, to enter the precincts of the late British Hospital;
and the scene, I need not say, was entirely changed, everything
having put on an Oriental aspect, and nothing remains as evidence
of its late occupation by the British army but a few shelves and
numbers of the beds in the various wards and corridors; and on the
staircase, the partitions of the dispensaries and extra-diet
kitchens, which in a few weeks longer will have passed into
oblivion. The various offices which were from morning to night
crowded, as well as the residence of General Storks, are now
occupied by the commanding officers of the Turkish army, by whom
business seems to be transacted quietly by signs, salutations, and
kissing of hands, such being the Turkish fashion, scarcely a word
being spoken by these living automatons. We were very politely
shown through the building, accompanied by several officers. The
large kitchen in the yard, which I had the fitting of, still
remains, the partition which formerly divided it to form an
extra-diet kitchen only being removed, making it now one vast
cook-house. The twenty-four large boilers, set in marble, were in
use for making the daily meal for the troops, which that day was
the meat Pilaff, a dish suitable for the million of any nation, it
being composed principally of rice, and the addition of a little
spice or curry-powder will make it highly palatable to the English
soldier. The kitchen-floor, after the Turkish fashion, was anything
but cleanly; but in their cooking apparatus the contrary exists,
the copper boilers being well tinned and very clean. The
meat-house, store-rooms, &c., present but a meagre appearance
contrasted with that, when filled with meat and provisions of all
kinds, during their occupation by the English. Returning thence, we
were attracted to the building by a band of music rehearsing in the
Malakoff ward, the brassy sounds of which in former days would have
proved anything but harmonious to the ears of the patients: several
airs arranged by the late Donizetti, the Sultan’s band-master, and
brother of the celebrated maestro, were performed for us with great
precision, especially “God save the Queen” and the “Sultan’s
March,” though still with the Oriental twang, which at first is
anything but agreeable or pleasing to a European ear. We then
walked round the barracks, through those I recollect once
encumbered, but now empty corridors, the immensity of which is
almost indescribable: the centre of the pavement alone, which in
some parts is nearly worn out by the daily traffic between the rows
of beds placed on either side, brought to my mind those days of
sorrow and anguish in which so many brave men had nobly expired in
the service of their country. Before leaving, I was very anxious to
visit another department, viz., the one so lately occupied by Miss
Nightingale, when, to my astonishment, our _cicerone_, without
being asked, conducted us to it. But what an extraordinary change
was there!--no longer were hangings of black cloth curtains before
the doors; neither was seen within the pleasing appearance of the
well though simply furnished apartment, erst filled on all sides
with religious books, &c., relics of departed soldiers bequeathed
to their friends and relations, and numerous samples of diet
comforts, many of which I had experimented upon before that
benevolent lady in her sanctorum. The walls were also devoid of a
fine portrait of her Majesty, and numerous scripture drawings;
added to that, the loss of the gentle voice of that excellent lady
mingled with that of her devoted satellites. No article of
furniture is now to be seen there, with the exception of a common
Turkish divan, “which is far from breaking the monotony of the bare
whitewashed walls,” round which were seated a dozen of
dark-coloured warlike-looking officers, who very politely rose when
we entered. Hardly had we seated ourselves, at their request, than
an army of Chiboukchi Bachis entered and presented us with long
chibouques; which while we were smoking, the same formidable army
re-appeared, each bearing a cup of coffee and sherbet, which we
partook of; and a few minutes after, we retired, through thick
clouds of smoke, the smell of coffee, and no end of salutations
from our illustrious hosts, among whom were Osman Pacha, whose
politeness will for ever be engraved upon my memory. My mind was so
struck with the sudden _changement à vue_ at the time, that I could
almost have attributed it to an effect of the magic wand of
Harlequin.
Thanking them for their kind entertainment, we retired, they
politely conducting us to the grand entrance. We then took a stroll
through the town, which we found comparatively deserted: the names
of the streets remain, as well as the designations of Clarendon
House, Russell House, Chaplain House, Victoria House, &c. We next
visited Hyder Pacha, called the General Hospital, where there were
about three hundred and forty sick, and amongst them were about ten
sick Polish soldiers: there were no cases of cholera, and but few
of fever, dysentery, &c. Nothing there seemed changed, except the
introduction of Turkish utensils in lieu of English ones. The
numbers of the beds were engraved upon copper crescents, and each
man had a round tinned copper tray, tankard, and spitting-vase; and
here and there were copper water-jugs of an elegant form, and
basins of elaborate workmanship for the doctors to wash their
hands. Cleanliness seemed to be closely attended to. The kitchen
there remains exactly as I had planned it; and the extra diets,
though very limited, were prepared on charcoal stoves.
We then went to the Cemetery, which we found in very good order,
with the exception of two tombstones not yet fixed; one in memory
of Capt. W. R. N. Campbell, of the 5th Dragoon Guards, who died at
Scutari, the 23rd of December, 1854; and the other to the memory of
Lieut. J. M. Holford, 25th Regiment, who died November 29th, 1854.
And though there was a Turkish guard or labourer in the Cemetery,
he could not inform our dragoman when or where they were to be
placed; and as there are no English remaining in Scutari, it would
be prudent of the friends of the deceased to inquire as to their
placement, for if left to the Turkish authorities a mistake might
occur, and we could find no indication of the spot where the
remains were interred. The grave of Major Sorrell, with whom I had
the pleasure of being acquainted, and whose death (by fever) was so
lamented, he being only ill one day, is marked by a plain piece of
board bearing his name. There is also the grave of the Russian
General Chekachoff, who was wounded at the Alma and taken prisoner:
he died a few days after his arrival at Scutari, in his last
moments expressing his gratitude for the kindness he had received
from the medical officers who attended him. This fact was related
to me by Signor Marco Vido of the British Embassy, who was present
at his decease. His grave bears no more permanent memento.
The spot selected for the Scutari Monument about to be erected,
though not in the centre of the Cemetery, will be a lasting
national testimonial to the memory of the brave, as it will form a
landmark which cannot fail to be seen from the Sea of Marmora,
Pera, Stamboul, the Isles des Princes, Kadikoi, &c. &c. The
tombstones, though not numerous, are well executed and in good
preservation: amongst them may be mentioned those of the Honourable
Grey Neville, 5th Dragoon Guards, and Henry Neville, Grenadier
Guards, sons of Lord Braybrooke, surviving each other only six
days--both wounded at Inkermann. There is also a memento to William
Frederic Viscount Chewton, son of the Earl of Waldegrave, killed at
Alma, September 20th, 1854.
The wooden cavalry barracks present a most desolate heap of ruins
and destruction, and are about to be removed.
We were now obliged to return through the grand Champ des Morts,
the vast and mournful spot where millions of souls have rested for
centuries in the dark shade of the cypress forest; and I can assure
you, Mr. Editor, that the day was anything but one of gaiety, but,
on the contrary, very solemn though interesting.
With the highest consideration, I have the honour to remain, &c.
Our next stay was at Malta, where I received a most gratifying reception
from the governor, military and civil authorities, as well as from the
gentlemen of the press. A stay of ten days in that city of ancient
chivalry will in my memory form an historical page of most agreeable
reminiscences, and could I have accepted all the dinners offered me by
the officers of various regiments, whom I had met in the Crimea, three
months would hardly have sufficed in fulfilling the invitations. To
Colonel Haley of the 47th, I cannot but feel grateful for the
magnificent banquet he gave on the occasion, when about fifty of the
heads of the army there stationed sat around the festive board, and at
which our epicurean soldier distinguished himself by concocting a most
excellent potage aux crevettes, and two dressed fish, peculiar to
Malta.[32]
Our next stay was at Marseilles, and being accompanied by Mr. Robertson,
the celebrated photographist of Constantinople, we once more degustated
the celebrated bouillabaisse. We afterwards took a stroll through the
part of France so lately inundated, where we met the celebrated Horace
Vernet; after a few hours at Lyons, we reached Paris the same evening,
which to our astonished eyes displayed quite a new aspect, with her
Rivoli rods of fire, magnificent palaces, and stupendous streets. Above
two years had elapsed since my last visit, and had created, under the
guidance of the imperial wand of Napoleon III., these wonders. After
gazing with amazement over that far-famed city, I retired to my native
place, Meaux en Brie, the birthplace of Bossuet, which I had not visited
for upwards of twenty-six years, having only a local interest in the
place, I being the last of my family left. During the progress of this
work, when returning to Paris, I had, after an application, the honour
of an interview with his Imperial Majesty the Emperor, who took a most
vivid interest in the descriptive narrative I gave him of my Eastern
mission, and entered into the most minute details on hospital and camp
cookery, &c. Our interview took place at the Chateau des Tuileries, and
lasted about half an hour; and after submitting and explaining to his
Imperial Majesty a model of my field-stove, he desired to have an
ordinary one forwarded from London, to serve as a model for his army.
His Majesty also took a vivid interest in the perusal of my simple
hospital dietary and army receipts. The affability of his Majesty
towards me in alluding to his high appreciation of my services in the
East, more than repays me for my very humble duties.[33]
* * * * *
In accordance with my aforementioned promise, having already gathered so
much matter for this narrative work, I find myself compelled to reserve
what I have so carefully collected for another work, already mentioned
in a note at the foot of preceding page, in which I shall insert only
the dishes most renowned in each country, and thus render them practical
everywhere. I have, during my six months’ travels since leaving the
Crimea, personally visited and become acquainted with the cookery of
Russia, Turkey, Germany, Greece, Malta, Italy, and France, also that of
its great provincial towns--of the latter till now unknown to me. They
all enjoy a high reputation for peculiar dishes so much esteemed by the
real gourmet. With Strasbourg, my culinary peregrinations closed. I
addressed to the local paper of that antique and interesting city the
following letter respecting the production of its delicious _foies gras_
and erroneous Inquisitional Romance:--
ARTICLE PUBLISHED IN THE “COURIER DU BAS RHIN.”
It has been said and generally credited in England and in France,
that the enormous development of the fat livers is obtained by a
system of torture inflicted by the Strasburghers upon the
unfortunate goose, the protecting bird of the Capitol. A certain
English publication states, “they are confined in dark cellars,
nailed to the floor by the feet before a slow fire which is kept
constantly burning, and they are then crammed to repletion, so much
so that the first cramming keeps the digestive organs in action for
weeks. This system of torture, worthy of the mysteries of the
Spanish Inquisition, dries up the frame of the poor bird to a
skeleton, and thus the liver acquires its enormous development
under the combined influence of cramming, want of exercise, and the
constant slow heat.”
“I am happy,” says Monsieur Soyer, “to show there is no truth in
this statement, and, from personal observation while at Strasbourg,
to be able to contradict those absurd fables so long credited in
England. I can certify that the geese intended for fattening are
allowed to roam about the farms and grass-fields in Alsace till
they are seven or eight months old, kept in flocks, and well
watched and tended.
“Having reached their requisite degree of maturity, they are
brought to the city market by the country farmers and sold to
persons who make the fattening a special business. They are now
crammed three times a day with dry and ripe Indian meal, kept in
clean wooden cages, and allowed to drink as much water as they
like; others, in greater numbers, roam about in large barns, very
light and well ventilated: these are also kept extremely clean.
Each bird consumes about a bushel of Indian meal before attaining
the requisite fatness, and but few die from disease during the
process. I have been assured that the quality of the water in
Strasbourg contributes greatly to the development of the livers,
but cannot vouch for the authenticity of this statement.”
Here is the whole of the mystery of the cruel process so long
commented upon in England; and, far from being Torquemadas, the
parties who follow this business, on the contrary, treat the
victims destined for the celebrated _pâtés de foies_ with great
care and humanity. Every Englishman may henceforth eat his _pâté_
with a clear conscience, as does the French _gourmet_, without
contravening the law of Grammont.
The livers are usually sold at five, six, ten, and even twelve and
fifteen francs each, according to the size and quality.
There is no special market for them, but the fatteners carry them
round for sale to the pastry-cooks and private establishments.
Independently of the liver, the dealer reaps a further profit upon
the goose (which is in general very plump and fat), besides the
down and the goose-grease.
I purpose adding to this _recherché_ and universal bill of fare, a few
receipts from Spain, Portugal, America, India, and China; closing this
small but well-filled volume with the roast-beef and plum-pudding of Old
England, which they are at present totally incapable of cooking properly
in Paris, but which I intend compelling them to do, inasmuch as they now
have in that city of gourmets and cradle of gastronomy nearly as good
meat as any to be found in the English metropolis.
The work will be published at a moderate price, and printed in different
languages, and will, I hope, prove acceptable to the public, as well as
beneficial, in a culinary point of view, to all nations.
* * * * *
A few weeks after my visit to his Majesty the Emperor Napoleon III., and
having delivered my report upon the kitchens for the working classes, to
my joy the time had arrived to sail for England’s happy land, which two
years previous I had so unexpectedly left. Double pleasure was attached
to my return, for I felt assured that within its sea-girt shore
thousands of true British hearts were wishing me well, to use his
Majesty the Sultan’s term. And indeed I was not disappointed, for in
less than forty-eight hours after my arrival in its mighty metropolis, I
had been so fervently shaken by the hand, that I could not but help
exclaiming for a short time, “Save me from my friends.” Added to this,
my kind reception by the home authorities was to me more than
gratifying: then the last, though not least, reminiscence of my late
campaign which occurred in Hyde Park, on the occasion of the
distribution of the Order of Valour by her Most Gracious Majesty, when,
being recognised amongst the thousands assembled in the stand by the
valiant general, Sir Colin Campbell, the elevation of my hat was not
sufficient for the impetuosity of the major-domo of this grand and
imposing ceremony--the last link of the late memorable Crimean Campaign.
On my going towards Sir Colin I was greeted with a hearty shake of the
hand, and the usual kind and affable inquiries so peculiar to the
amiable General having passed between us, I could not help expressing to
the gallant warrior how highly gratified I had been by the admirable and
perfect manœuvring of the troops. Shortly after he bade me adieu,
and, accompanied by his staff, left the ground. At this time I much
regretted not having had the opportunity of paying my duty to one of the
generals in command, as it would have closed, in a most _apropos_
manner, the last page of this work, my “Culinary Campaign;” but, thanks
to my star, an hour after the termination of the proceedings, while
walking along Piccadilly towards my residence, a friend’s voice behind
me exclaimed--“Halloo, Monsieur Soyer!” On turning round, who, to my
astonishment, should I perceive, mounted on his Balaklava charger, and
followed by his aide-de-camp, but the very gallant general whose
absence I had just been regretting. It was no other than Lord William
Paulet, who was turning the corner to enter his chambers in the Albany.
“I have,” exclaimed his lordship, “been looking out everywhere for you,
having learned from Sir Colin Campbell that you were upon the ground.”
“So have I been looking for you, my lord, and with great anxiety, but
unfortunately I was deprived of the pleasure of meeting you.”
“By-the-bye, Soyer, I saw your portrait in the historical Scutari
painting, by Barrett, this morning at Buckingham Palace, and I consider
it an excellent likeness.”
“I am glad you think so, my lord, and for my part I consider the whole
of the picture remarkably well executed. At the same time allow me to
inform your lordship, that as you are so near home, I should have been
very sorry to have had the pleasure of meeting you in the Park.”
“Why so, Soyer?” remarked his lordship, leaning over his charger, and
still retaining my hand in his.
“Well, my lord, the reason is simple. Having so prosperously commenced
my culinary campaign under your command and very kind assistance, while
your lordship was Brigadier-general of Scutari, nothing could be more in
accordance with my wishes than that the last page of a work which I am
now about completing, in anticipation of perpetuating the style of
cookery introduced by me both at Scutari and in the camp before
Sebastopol, should terminate at the very threshold of your door, and
while you were returning from the last national ceremony relating to the
great Crimean campaign.”
“Well, upon my word, it is very remarkable; and I am happy to think,
Soyer, that you have written a work upon so important and interesting a
subject.”
We then parted. A few minutes had thrown a curtain over this grand
military display, which will ever be remembered in history, as well as
graven on the memory of man.
The Author, after his laborious campaign, in bidding adieu to his
readers, does not intend to remain _Soyer tranquille_, as he is most
anxious, after having chronicled his culinary reminiscences of the late
war, to put his views into action by simple practice; and as he had no
other object in writing this book, he sincerely hopes it may be the
means of causing a lasting amelioration in the cooking for both army and
navy, and all public institutions. Such a result to his labours, after
his long culinary experience, would make the author happy indeed, and he
would for the future be found as traced below.
[Illustration: SOYER TRÈS HEUREUX.]
ADDENDA.
INTRODUCTION.--THIS PART OF THE WORK, THOUGH THE LAST, I CONSIDER
NOT THE LEAST, BEING THE MOST USEFUL. IT NEEDS NO PREFACE. ITS
CONTENTS ARE AS FOLLOWS: FIRST, THE NEW HOSPITAL DIETS; SECONDLY,
THE COOKING FOR THE ARMY AND NAVY; THIRDLY, THE LONDON SUPPER;
FOURTHLY, THE CHEAP RECEIPTS, WHEREBY THE WEALTHY CAN, AT A
TRIFLING EXPENSE, AID IN WINTER THE WORKING CLASSES AND THE NEEDY.
SOYER’S HOSPITAL DIETS,
AS INTRODUCED BY HIM WITH THE CONCURRENCE OF THE LEADING MEDICAL
GENTLEMEN OF THE BRITISH MILITARY HOSPITALS IN THE EAST.
* * * * *
REMARK.--THE IMPORTANCE ATTACHING TO WEIGHTS AND MEASURES IN THE
ACCOMPANYING RECEIPTS IS FULLY RECOGNISED; IT IS THEREFORE
NECESSARY THAT REGIMENTAL AS WELL AS CIVIL HOSPITALS SHOULD BE
SUPPLIED WITH SCALES, AND WITH MEASURES FOR LIQUIDS.
* * * * *
_Correct Bill of Fare for Hospital Diet for the Army in the East,
as first introduced by Monsieur Soyer in the Great Barrack
Hospital, Scutari, and subsequently in others, while on his
Government Mission during the late War, for the Sick, Wounded, and
Convalescent, and applicable to all Hospitals throughout the United
Kingdom of Great Britain._
NO. 1.--SEMI-STEWED MUTTON AND BARLEY. SOUP FOR 100 MEN.[34]
Put in a convenient-sized caldron 130 pints of cold water, 70 lbs. of
meat, or about that quantity, 12 lbs. of plain mixed vegetables (the
best that can be obtained), 9lbs. 6oz. of barley, 1lb. 7oz. of salt,
1lb. 4oz. of flour, 1lb. 4oz. of sugar, 1oz. of pepper. Put all the
ingredients into the pan at once, except the flour; set it on the fire,
and when beginning to boil, diminish the heat, and simmer gently for two
hours and a half; take the joints of meat out, and keep them warm in the
orderly’s pan; add to the soup your flour, which you have mixed with
enough water to form a light batter; stir well together with a large
spoon; boil another half-hour, skim off the fat, and serve the soup and
meat separate. The meat may be put back into the soup for a few minutes
to warm again prior to serving. The soup should be stirred now and then
while making, to prevent burning or sticking to the bottom of the
caldron.
The joints are cooked whole, and afterwards cut up in different messes;
being cooked this way, in a rather thick stock, the meat becomes more
nutritious.
_Note._--The word “about” is applied to the half and full diet, which
varies the weight of the meat; but ½lb. of mutton will always make a
pint of good soup: 3lbs. of mixed preserved vegetables must be used when
fresh are not to be obtained, and put in one hour and a half prior to
serving, instead of at first; they will then show better in the soup,
and still be well done.
All the following receipts may be increased to large quantities, but by
all means closely follow the weight and measure.
NO. 2.--BEEF SOUP.
Proceed the same as for mutton, only leave the meat in till serving, as
it will take longer than mutton. The pieces are not to be above 4 or
5lbs. weight; and for a change, half rice may be introduced; the
addition of 2lbs. more will make it thicker and more nutritive; ¼lb.
of curry powder will make an excellent change also. To vary the same,
half a pint of burnt sugar water may be added--it will give the soup a
very rich brown colour. (Vide Receipt No. 32.)
NO. 3.--BEEF TEA. RECEIPT FOR SIX PINTS.
Cut 3lbs. of beef into pieces the size of walnuts, and chop up the
bones, if any; put it into a convenient-sized kettle, with ½lb. of
mixed vegetables, such as onions, leeks, celery, turnips, carrots (or
one or two of these, if all are not to be obtained), 1oz. of salt, a
little pepper, 1 teaspoonful of sugar, 2oz. of butter, half a pint of
water. Set it on a sharp fire for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour,
stirring now and then with a spoon, till it forms a rather thick gravy
at bottom, but not brown: then add 7 pints of hot or cold water, but hot
is preferable; when boiling, let it simmer gently for an hour; skim off
all the fat, strain it through a sieve, and serve.
NO. 3A.--ESSENCE OF BEEF TEA.
For camp hospitals.--“Quarter pound tin case of essence.”
If in winter set it near the fire to melt; pour the contents in a
stew-pan and twelve times the case full of water over it, hot or cold;
add to it two or three slices of onion, a sprig or two of parsley, a
leaf or two of celery, if handy, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of sugar;
pass through a colander and serve. If required stronger, eight cases of
water will suffice, decreasing the seasoning in proportion. In case you
have no vegetables, sugar, or pepper, salt alone will do, but the broth
will not be so succulent.
NO. 4.--THICK BEEF TEA.
Dissolve a good teaspoonful of arrowroot in a gill of water, and pour it
into the beef tea twenty minutes before passing through the sieve--it is
then ready.
NO. 5.--STRENGTHENING BEEF TEA, WITH CALVES-FOOT JELLY OR ISINGLASS.
Add ¼oz. calves-foot gelatine to the above quantity of beef tea
previous to serving, when cooking.
NO. 6.--MUTTON AND VEAL TEA.
Mutton and veal will make good tea by proceeding precisely the same as
above. The addition of a little aromatic herbs is always desirable. If
no fresh vegetables are at hand, use 2oz. of mixed preserved vegetables
to any of the above receipts.
NO. 7.--CHICKEN BROTH.
Put in a stewpan a fowl, 3 pints of water, 2 teaspoonfuls of rice, 1
teaspoonful of salt, a middle-sized onion, or 2oz. of mixed vegetables;
boil the whole gently for three quarters of an hour: if an old fowl,
simmer from one hour and a half to two hours, adding 1 pint more water;
skim off the fat, and serve. A small fowl will do.
_Note._--A light mutton broth may be made precisely the same, by using a
pound and a half of scrag of mutton instead of fowl.
For thick mutton broth proceed as for thick beef tea, omitting the rice;
a tablespoonful of burnt sugar water will give a rich colour to the
broth.
NO. 8.--PLAIN BOILED RICE.
Put 2 quarts of water in a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of salt; when
boiling, add to it ½lb. of rice, well washed; boil for ten minutes, or
till each grain becomes rather soft; drain it into a colander, slightly
grease the pot with butter, and put the rice back into it; let it swell
slowly for about twenty minutes near the fire, or in a slow oven; each
grain will then swell up, and be well separated; it is then ready for
use.
NO. 9.--SWEET RICE.
Add to the plain boiled rice 1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar,
a little cinnamon, a quarter of a pint of milk; stir it with a fork, and
serve; a little currant jelly or jam maybe added to the rice.
NO. 10.--RICE WITH GRAVY.
Add to the rice 4 tablespoonfuls of the essence of beef, a little
butter, if fresh, half a teaspoonful of salt; stir together with a fork,
and serve.
A teaspoonful of Soyer’s Sultana Sauce, or relish, will make it very
wholesome and palatable, as well as invigorating to a fatigued
stomach.[35]
NO. 11.--PLAIN OATMEAL.
Put in a pan ¼lb. of oatmeal, 1½oz. of sugar, half a teaspoonful of
salt, and 3 pints of water; boil slowly for twenty minutes, “stirring
continually,” and serve. A quarter of a pint of boiled milk, an ounce of
butter, and a little pounded cinnamon or spice added previous to serving
is a good variation.
This receipt has been found most useful at the commencement of dysentery
by the medical authorities.
NO. 12.--CALVES-FOOT JELLY.
Put in a proper sized stewpan 2¼oz. of calves-foot gelatine, 4oz. of
white sugar, 4 whites of eggs and shells, the peel of a lemon, the juice
of three middle-sized lemons, half a pint of Marsala wine; beat all well
together with the egg-beater for a few minutes, then add 4½ pints of
cold water; set it on a slow fire, and keep whipping it till boiling.
Set it on the corner of the stove, partly covered with the lid, upon
which you place a few pieces of burning charcoal; let it simmer gently
for ten minutes, and strain it through a jelly-bag. It is then ready to
put in the ice or some cool place. Sherry will do if Marsala is not at
hand.
For orange jelly use only 1 lemon and 2 oranges. Any delicate flavour
may be introduced.
_Note._--I find that the preparation now manufactured by Messrs. Crosse
and Blackwell, of Soho-square, London, is preferable to any other, being
also cheaper than boiling calves’ feet on purpose, which takes a very
long time, and is more difficult to make. This preparation will keep as
long as isinglass, to prove which I am induced at the same time to give
the following receipt, when the other cannot be procured. Ox-feet or
cow-heel may be used instead of calves-feet, only requiring an hour
more simmering. In summer ice must be used to set the jelly.
JELLY STOCK,
Made from calf’s feet, requires to be made the day previous to being
used, requiring to be very hard to extract the fat. Take two calf’s
feet, cut them up, and boil in three quarts of water; as soon as it
boils remove it to the corner of the fire, and simmer for five hours,
keeping it skimmed, pass through a hair sieve into a basin, and let it
remain until quite hard, then remove the oil and fat, and wipe the top
dry. Place in a stew-pan half a pint of water, one of sherry, half a
pound of lump sugar, the juice of four lemons, the rinds of two, and the
whites and shells of five eggs; whisk until the sugar is melted, then
add the jelly, place it on the fire, and whisk until boiling, pass it
through a jelly-bag, pouring that back again which comes through first
until quite clear; it is then ready for use, by putting it in moulds or
glasses. Vary the flavour according to fancy.
NO. 13.--SAGO JELLY.
Put into a pan, 3oz. of sago, 1½oz. of sugar, half a lemon-peel cut
very thin, ¼ teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, or a small stick of the
same; put to it 3 pints of water and a little salt; boil ten minutes, or
rather longer, stirring continually, until rather thick, then add a
little port, sherry, or Marsala wine; mix well, and serve hot or cold.
NO. 14.--ARROWROOT MILK.
Put into a pan 4oz. of arrowroot, 3oz. of sugar, the peel of half a
lemon, ¼ teaspoonful of salt, 2½ pints of milk; set it on the fire,
stir round gently, boil for ten minutes, and serve. If no lemons at
hand, a little essence of any kind will do.
When short of milk, use half water; half an ounce of fresh butter is an
improvement before serving. If required thicker, put a little milk.
NO. 15.--THICK ARROWROOT PANADA.
Put in a pan 5oz. of arrowroot, 2½oz. of white sugar, the peel of
half a lemon, a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, 4 pints of water; mix
all well, set on the fire, boil for ten minutes; it is then ready. The
juice of a lemon is an improvement; a gill of wine may also be
introduced, and ½oz. of calf’s-foot gelatine previously dissolved in
water will be strengthening. Milk, however, is preferable, if at hand.
NO. 16.--ARROWROOT WATER.
Put into a pan 3oz. of arrowroot, 2oz. of white sugar, the peel of a
lemon, ¼ teaspoonful of salt, 4 pints of water; mix well, set on the
fire, boil for ten minutes. It is then ready to serve either hot or
cold.
NO. 17.--RICE WATER.
Put 7 pints of water to boil, add to it 2 ounces of rice washed, 2oz. of
sugar, the peel of two-thirds of a lemon; boil gently for three-quarters
of an hour; it will reduce to 5 pints; strain through a colander; it is
then ready.
The rice may be left in the beverage or made into a pudding, or by the
addition of a little sugar or jam, will be found very good for either
children or invalids.
NO. 18.--BARLEY WATER.
Put in a saucepan 7 pints of water, 2oz. of barley, which stir now and
then while boiling; add 2oz. of white sugar, the rind of half a lemon,
thinly peeled; let it boil gently for about two hours, without covering
it; pass it through a sieve or colander; it is then ready. The barley
and lemon may be left in it.
NO. 19.--SOYER’S PLAIN LEMONADE.
Thinly peel the third part of a lemon, which put into a basin with 2
tablespoonfuls of sugar; roll the lemon with your hand upon the table to
soften it; cut it into two, lengthwise, squeeze the juice over the peel,
&c., stir round for a minute with a spoon to form a sort of syrup; pour
over a pint of water, mix well, and remove the pips; it is then ready
for use. If a very large lemon, and full of juice, and very fresh, you
may make a pint and a half to a quart, adding sugar and peel in
proportion to the increase of water. The juice only of the lemon and
sugar will make lemonade, but will then be deprived of the aroma which
the rind contains, the said rind being generally thrown away.
NO. 20.--SEMI-CITRIC LEMONADE. RECEIPT FOR FIFTY PINTS.
Put 1oz. of citric acid to dissolve in a pint of water; peel 20 lemons
thinly, and put the peel in a large vessel, with 3lbs. 2oz. of white
sugar well broken; roll each lemon on the table to soften it, which will
facilitate the extraction of the juice; cut them into two, and press out
the juice into a colander or sieve, over the peel and sugar, then pour
half a pint of water through the colander, so as to leave no juice
remaining; triturate the sugar, juice and peel together for a minute or
two with a spoon, so as to form a sort of syrup, and extract the aroma
from the peel and the dissolved citric acid; mix all well together, pour
on 50 pints of cold water, stir well together; it is then ready. A
little ice in summer is a great addition.
* * * * *
_Observation._--The two following Lemonades, which have been submitted
to eminent Doctors at Scutari, have been approved of, and can be made
for either the Hospitals or the Camp, and will be found to answer
equally for domestic consumption, if lemons are not to be obtained.
NO. 21.--SOYER’S CHEAP CRIMEAN LEMONADE.
Put into a basin 2 tablespoonfuls of white or brown sugar, ½ a
tablespoonful of lime juice, mix well together for one minute, add 1
pint of water, and the beverage is ready. A drop of rum will make a good
variation, as lime juice and rum are daily issued to the soldiers.
NO. 22.--TARTARIC LEMONADE.
Dissolve 1oz. of crystallized tartaric acid in a pint of cold water,
which put in a large vessel; when dissolved, add 1lb. 9oz. of white or
brown sugar--the former is preferable; mix well to form a thick syrup;
add to it 24 pints of cold water, slowly mixing well; it is then ready.
It may be strained through either a colander or a jelly-bag; if required
very light, add 5 pints more water, and sugar in proportion; if citric
acid be used, put only 20 pints of water to each ounce.
NO. 23.--CHEAP PLAIN RICE PUDDING, FOR CAMPAIGNING,
In which no eggs or milk are required: important in the Crimea or the
field.
Put on the fire, in a moderate-sized saucepan, 12 pints of water; when
boiling, add to it 1lb. of rice or 16 tablespoonsful, 4oz. of brown
sugar or 4 tablespoonsful, 1 large teaspoonful of salt, and the rind of
a lemon thinly pealed; boil gently for half an hour, then strain all the
water from the rice, keeping it as dry as possible.
The rice-water is then ready for drinking, either warm or cold. The
juice of a lemon may be introduced, which will make it more palatable
and refreshing.
THE PUDDING.
Add to the rice 3oz. of sugar, 4 tablespoonsful of flour, half a
teaspoonful of pounded cinnamon; stir it on the fire carefully for five
or ten minutes; put it in a tin or a pie-dish, and bake. By boiling the
rice a quarter of an hour longer, it will be very good to eat without
baking. Cinnamon may be omitted.
NO. 23A.--BATTER PUDDING.
Break two fresh eggs in a basin, beat them well, add one tablespoonful
and a half of flour, which beat up with your eggs with a fork until no
lumps remain; add a gill of milk, a teaspoonful of salt, butter a teacup
or a basin, pour in your mixture, put some water in a stew-pan, enough
to immerge half way up the cup or basin in water; when boiling put in
your cup or basin and boil twenty minutes, or till your pudding is well
set; pass a knife to loosen it, turn out on a plate, pour pounded sugar
and a pat of fresh butter over, and serve. A little lemon, cinnamon, or
a drop of any essence may be introduced. A little light melted butter,
sherry, and sugar, may be poured over. If required more delicate, add a
little less flour. It may be served plain.
NO. 24.--BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING.
Butter a tart-dish well, and sprinkle some currants all round it, then
lay in a few slices of bread and butter; boil one pint of milk, pour it
on two eggs well whipped, and then on the bread and butter; bake it in a
hot oven for half an hour. Currants may be omitted.
NO. 25.--BREAD PUDDING.
Boil one pint of milk, with a piece of cinnamon and lemon-peel; pour it
on two ounces of bread-crumbs; then add two eggs, half an ounce of
currants, and a little sugar: steam it in a buttered mould for one hour.
NO. 26.--CUSTARD PUDDING.
Boil one pint of milk, with a small piece of lemon-peel and half a
bay-leaf, for three minutes; then pour these on to three eggs, mix it
with one ounce of sugar well together, and pour it into a buttered
mould: steam it twenty-five minutes in a stew-pan with some water (see
No. 115), turn out on a plate and serve.
NO. 27.--RICH RICE PUDDING.
Put in ½lb. of rice in a stew-pan, washed, 3 pints of milk, 1 pint of
water, 3oz. of sugar, 1 lemon peel, 1oz. of fresh butter; boil gently
half an hour, or until the rice is tender; add 4 eggs, well beaten, mix
well, and bake quickly for half an hour, and serve: it may be steamed if
preferred.
NO. 28--STEWED MACARONI.
Put in a stewpan 2 quarts of water, half a tablespoonful of salt, 2oz.
of butter; set on the fire; when boiling, add 1lb. of macaroni, broken
up rather small; when boiled very soft, throw off the water; mix well
into the macaroni a tablespoonful of flour, add enough milk to make it
of the consistency of thin melted butter; boil gently twenty minutes;
add in a tablespoonful of either brown or white sugar, or honey, and
serve.
A little cinnamon, nutmeg, lemon-peel, or orange-flower water may be
introduced to impart a flavour; stir quick. A gill of milk or cream may
now be thrown in three minutes before serving. Nothing can be more light
and nutritious than macaroni done this way. If no milk, use water.
NO. 29.--MACARONI PUDDING.
Put 2 pints of water to boil, add to it 2oz. of macaroni, broken in
small pieces; boil till tender, drain off the water and add half a
tablespoonful of flour, 2oz. of white sugar, a quarter of a pint of
milk, and boil together for ten minutes; beat an egg up, pour it to the
other ingredients, a nut of butter; mix well and bake, or steam. It can
be served plain, and may be flavoured with either cinnamon, lemon, or
other essences, as orange flower-water, vanilla, &c.
NO. 30.--SAGO PUDDING.
Put in a pan 4oz. of sago, 2oz. of sugar, half a lemon peel or a little
cinnamon, a small pat of fresh butter, if handy, half a pint of milk;
boil for a few minutes, or until rather thick, stirring all the while;
beat up 2 eggs and mix quickly with the same; it is then ready for
either baking or steaming, or may be served plain.
NO. 31.--TAPIOCA PUDDING.
Put in a pan 2oz. of tapioca, 1½ pint of milk, 1oz. of white or brown
sugar, a little salt, set on the fire, boil gently for fifteen minutes,
or until the tapioca is tender, stirring now and then to prevent its
sticking to the bottom, or burning; then add two eggs well beaten; steam
or bake, and serve. It will take about twenty minutes steaming, or a
quarter of an hour baking slightly. Flavour with either lemon, cinnamon,
or any other essence.
NO. 32.--BOILED RICE SEMI-CURRIED, FOR THE PREMONITORY SYMPTOMS OF
DIARRHŒA.
Put 1 quart of water in a pot or saucepan; when boiling, wash ½lb. of
rice and throw it into the water; boil fast for ten minutes; drain your
rice in a colander, put it back in the saucepan, which you have slightly
greased with butter; let it swell slowly near the fire, or in a slow
oven till tender; each grain will then be light and well separated.
Add to the above a small tablespoonful of aromatic sauce, called
“Soyer’s Relish or Sultana Sauce,” with a quarter of a teaspoonful of
curry powder; mix together with a fork lightly, and serve. This quantity
will be sufficient for two or three people, according to the
prescriptions of the attending physician.
NO. 33.--FIGS AND APPLE BEVERAGE.
Have 2 quarts of water boiling, into which throw 6 dry figs previously
opened, and 2 apples, cut into six or eight slices each; let the whole
boil together twenty minutes, then pour them into a basin to cool; pass
through a sieve; drain the figs, which will be good to eat with a little
sugar or jam.
NO. 34.--STEWED FRENCH PLUMS.
Put 12 large or 18 small-size French plums, soak them for half an hour,
put in a stew-pan with a spoonful of brown sugar, a gill of water, a
little cinnamon, and some thin rind of lemon; let them stew gently
twenty minutes, then put them in a basin till cold with a little of the
juice. A small glass of either port, sherry, or claret is a very good
addition. The syrup is excellent.
NO. 35.--FRENCH HERB BROTH.
This is a very favourite beverage in France, as well with people in
health as with invalids, especially in spring, when the herbs are young
and green.
Put a quart of water to boil, having previously prepared about 40 leaves
of sorrel, a cabbage lettuce, and 10 sprigs of chervil, the whole well
washed; when the water is boiling, throw in the herbs, with the addition
of a teaspoonful of salt, and ½oz. of fresh butter; cover the saucepan
close, and let simmer a few minutes, then strain it through, a sieve or
colander.
This is to be drunk cold, especially in the spring of the year, after
the change from winter. I generally drink about a quart per day for a
week at that time; but if for sick people it must be made less strong of
herbs, and taken a little warm.
To prove that it is wholesome, we have only to refer to the instinct
which teaches dogs to eat grass at that season of the year. I do not
pretend to say that it would suit persons in every malady, because the
doctors are to decide upon the food and beverage of their patients, and
study its changes as well as change their medicines; but I repeat that
this is most useful and refreshing for the blood.
NO. 36.--BROWNING FOR SOUPS, ETC.
Put ½lb. of moist sugar into an iron pan and melt it over a moderate
fire till quite black, stirring it continually, which will take about
twenty-five minutes: it must colour by degrees, as too sudden a heat
will make it bitter; then add 2 quarts of water, and in ten minutes the
sugar will be dissolved. You may then bottle it for use. It will keep
good for a month, and will always be found very useful.
NO. 37.--TOAST-AND-WATER.
Cut a piece of crusty bread, about a ¼lb. in weight, place it upon a
toasting-fork, and hold it about six inches from the fire; turn it
often, and keep moving it gently until of a light-yellow colour, then
place it nearer the fire, and when of a good brown chocolate colour, put
it in a jug and pour over 3 pints of boiling water; cover the jug until
cold, then strain it into a clean jug, and it is ready for use. Never
leave the toast in it, for in summer it would cause fermentation in a
short time. I would almost venture to say that such toast-and-water as I
have described, though so very simple, is the only way toast-water
should be made, and that it would keep good a considerable time in
bottles.
_Baked Apple Toast-and-Water._--A piece of apple, slowly toasted till it
gets quite black, and added to the above, makes a very nice and
refreshing drink for invalids.
_Apple Rice Water._--Half a pound of rice, boiled in the above until in
pulp, passed through a colander, and drunk when cold.
All kinds of fruit may be done the same way.
Figs and French plums are excellent; also raisins.
A little ginger, if approved of, may be used.
_Apple Barley Water._--A quarter of a pound of pearl barley instead of
toast added to the above, and boil for one hour, is also a very nice
drink.
_Citronade._--Put a gallon of water on to boil, cut up one pound of
apples, each one into quarters, two lemons in thin slices, put them in
the water, and boil them until they can be pulped, pass the liquor
through a colander, boil it up again with half a pound of brown sugar,
skim, and bottle for use, taking care not to cork the bottle, and keep
it in a cool place.
_For Spring Drink._--Rhubarb, in the same quantities, and done in the
same way as apples, adding more sugar, is very cooling.
Also green gooseberries.
_For Summer Drink._--One pound of red currants, bruised with some
raspberry, half a pound of sugar added to a gallon of cold water, well
stirred, and allowed to settle. The juice of a lemon.
_Mulberry._--The same, adding a little lemon-peel.
A little cream of tartar or citric acid added to these renders them more
cooling in summer and spring.
_Plain Lemonade._--Cut in very thin slices three lemons, put them in a
basin, add half a pound of sugar, either white or brown; bruise all
together, add a gallon of water, and stir well. It is then ready.
_French Plum Water._--Boil 3 pints of water; add in 6 or 8 dried plums
previously split, 2 or 3 slices of lemon, a spoonful of honey or sugar;
boil half an hour and serve.
For _Fig, Date, and Raisin Water_, proceed as above, adding the juice of
half a lemon to any of the above. If for fig water, use 6 figs.
Any quantity of the above fruits may be used with advantage in rice,
barley, or arrowroot water.
EFFERVESCENT BEVERAGES.
_Raspberry Water._--Put 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar into a large glass,
pour in half a pint of water; mix well.
_Pine-apple Syrup._--Three tablespoonfuls to a pint.
_Currant Syrup._--Proceed the same.
_Syrup of Orgeat._--The same.
_Orange-Flower Water._--The same, adding an ounce of lump sugar, is a
most soothing drink, and is to be procured at Verrey’s, in Regent
Street, or Kuntz’s, opposite Verrey’s. Put two tablespoonfuls to a glass
of water. It is also extremely good with either Soda, Seltzer, or Vichy
Water, the last of which is to be obtained at the depôt,
Margaret-street, Cavendish-square.
ARMY RECEIPTS.
SOYER’S FIELD AND BARRACK COOKERY FOR THE ARMY.
N.B.--These receipts are also applicable for barracks, in camp, or while
on the march, by the use of Soyer’s New Field Stove, now adopted by the
military authorities. These receipts answer equally as well for the
navy.
[Illustration]
Each stove will consume not more than from 12 to 15lbs. of fuel, and
allowing 20 stoves to a regiment, the consumption would be 300lbs. per
thousand men.
The allowance per man is, I believe, 3½lbs. each, which gives a total
of 3500lbs. per thousand men.
The economy of fuel would consequently be 3200 lbs. per regiment daily.
Coal will burn with the same advantage.
Salt beef, pork, Irish stew, stewed beef, tea, coffee, cocoa, &c., can
be prepared in these stoves, and with the same economy.
They can also be fitted with an apparatus for baking, roasting, and
steaming.
NO. 1.--SOYER’S RECEIPT TO COOK SALT MEAT FOR FIFTY MEN.
_Head-Quarters, Crimea, 12th May, 1856._
1. Put 50 lbs. of meat in the boiler.
2. Fill with water, and let soak all night.
3. Next morning wash the meat well.
4. Fill with fresh water, and boil gently three hours, and serve. Skim
off the fat, which, when cold, is an excellent substitute for butter.
For salt pork proceed as above, or boil half beef and half pork--the
pieces of beef may be smaller than the pork, requiring a little longer
time doing.
Dumplings, No. 21, may be added to either pork or beef in proportion;
and when pork is properly soaked, the liquor will make a very good soup.
The large yellow peas as used by the navy, may be introduced; it is
important to have them, as they are a great improvement. When properly
soaked, French haricot beans and lentils may also be used to advantage.
By the addition of 5 pounds of split peas, half a pound of brown sugar,
2 tablespoonfuls of pepper, 10 onions; simmer gently till in pulp,
remove the fat and serve; broken biscuit may be introduced. This will
make an excellent mess.
NO. 1A.--HOW TO SOAK AND PLAIN-BOIL THE RATIONS OF SALT BEEF AND PORK,
ON LAND OR AT SEA.
To each pound of meat allow about a pint of water. Do not have the
pieces above 3 or 4 lbs. in weight. Let it soak for 7 or 8 hours, or all
night if possible. Wash each piece well with your hand in order to
extract as much salt as possible. It is then ready for cooking. If less
time be allowed, cut the pieces smaller and proceed the same, or parboil
the meat for 20 minutes in the above quantity of water, which throw off
and add fresh. Meat may be soaked in sea water, but by all means boiled
in fresh when possible.
I should advise, at sea, to have a perforated iron box made, large
enough to contain half a ton or more of meat, which box will ascend and
descend by pulleys; have also a frame made on which the box might rest
when lowered overboard, the meat being placed outside the ship on a
level with the water, the night before using; the water beating against
the meat through the perforations will extract all the salt. Meat may be
soaked in sea water, but by all means washed.
NO. 2.--SOYER’S ARMY SOUP FOR FIFTY MEN.
_Head-Quarters, 12th May, 1856._
1. Put in the boiler 60 pints, 7½ gallons, or 5½ camp kettles of water.
2. Add to it 50lbs. of meat, either beef or mutton.
3. The rations of preserved or fresh vegetables.
4. Ten small tablespoonfuls of salt.
5. Simmer three hours, and serve.
P.S.--When rice is issued put it in when boiling.
Three pounds will be sufficient.
About eight pounds of fresh vegetables.
Or four squares from a cake of preserved ditto.
A tablespoonful of pepper, if handy.
Skim off the fat, which, when cold, is an excellent substitute for
butter.
NO. 2A.--SALT PORK WITH MASHED PEAS, FOR ONE HUNDRED MEN.
Put in two stoves 50lbs. of pork each, divide 24lbs. in four
pudding-cloths, rather loosely tied; putting to boil at the same time as
your pork, let all boil gently till done, say about two hours; take out
the pudding and peas, put all meat in one caldron, remove the liquor
from the other pan, turning back the peas in it, add two teaspoonfuls of
pepper, a pound of the fat, and with the wooden spatula smash the peas,
and serve both. The addition of about half a pound of flour and two
quarts of liquor, boiled ten minutes, makes a great improvement. Six
sliced onions, fried and added to it, makes it very delicate.
NO. 3.--STEWED SALT BEEF AND PORK.
For a Company of One Hundred Men, or a Regiment of One Thousand Men.
_Head-Quarters, 12th June, 1855._
Put in a boiler, of well-soaked beef 30lbs., cut in pieces of a quarter
of a pound each.
20lbs. of pork.
1½lb. of sugar.
8lbs. of onions, sliced,
25 quarts of water.
4lbs. of rice.
Simmer gently for three hours, skim the fat off the top, and serve.
_Note._--How to soak the meat for the above mess.--Put 50lbs. of meat in
each boiler, having filled them with water, and let soak all night; and
prior to using it, wash it and squeeze with your hands, to extract the
salt.
In case the meat is still too salt, boil it for twenty minutes, throw
away the water, and put fresh to your stew.
By closely following the above receipt you will have an excellent dish.
NO. 4.--SOYER’S FOOD FOR ONE HUNDRED MEN, USING TWO STOVES.
_Head-Quarters, Crimea._
Cut or chop 50lbs. of fresh beef in pieces of about a ¼lb. each; put
in the boiler, with 10 tablespoonfuls of salt, two ditto of pepper, four
ditto of sugar, onions 7lbs. cut in slices: light the fire now, and then
stir the meat with a spatula, let it stew from 20 to 30 minutes, or till
it forms a thick gravy, then add a pound and a half of flour; mix well
together, put in the boiler 18 quarts of water, stir well for a minute
or two, regulate the stove to a moderate heat, and let simmer for about
two hours. Mutton, pork, or veal, can be stewed in a similar manner, but
will take half an hour less cooking.
_Note._--A pound of rice may be added with great advantage, ditto plain
dumplings, ditto potatoes, as well as mixed vegetables.
For a regiment of 1000 men use 20 stoves.
NO. 5.--PLAIN IRISH STEW FOR FIFTY MEN.
Cut 50lbs. of mutton into pieces of a quarter of a pound each, put them
in the pan, add 8lbs. of large onions, 12lbs. of whole potatoes, 8
tablespoonfuls of salt, 3 tablespoonfuls of pepper; cover all with
water, giving about half a pint to each pound; then light the fire; one
hour and a half of gentle ebullition will make a most excellent stew;
mash some of the potatoes to thicken the gravy, and serve. Fresh beef,
veal, or pork, will also make a good stew. Beef takes two hours doing.
Dumplings may be added half an hour before done.
NO. 6.--TO COOK FOR A REGIMENT OF A THOUSAND MEN.
_Head-Quarters, Crimea, 20th June, 1855._
Place twenty stoves in a row, in the open air or under cover.
Put 30 quarts of water in each boiler, 50lbs. of ration meat, 4 squares
from a cake of dried vegetables--or, if fresh mixed vegetables are
issued, 12lbs. weight--10 small tablespoonfuls of salt, 1 ditto of
pepper, light the fire, simmer gently from two hours to two hours and a
half, skim the fat from the top, and serve.
It will require only four cooks per regiment, the provision and water
being carried to the kitchen by fatigue-parties; the kitchen being
central, instead of the kitchen going to each company, each company
sends two men to the kitchen with a pole to carry the meat.
NO. 7.--SALT PORK AND PUDDINGS WITH CABBAGE AND POTATOES.
Put 25lbs. of salt pork in each boiler, with the other 50lbs. from which
you have extracted the large bones, cut in dice, and made into
puddings; when on the boil, put five puddings in each, boil rather fast
for two hours. You have peeled 12lbs. of potatoes and put in a net in
each caldron; put also 2 winter cabbages in nets, three-quarters of an
hour before your pudding is done; divide the pork, pudding, and cabbage
in proportion, or let fifty of the men have pudding that day and meat
the other; remove the fat, and serve. The liquor will make very good
soup by adding peas or rice, as No. 1a.
For the pudding-paste put one quarter of a pound of dripping, or beef or
mutton suet, to every pound of flour you use; roll your paste for each
half an inch thick, put a pudding-cloth in a basin, flour round, lay in
your paste, add your meat in proportion; season with pepper and a minced
onion; close your pudding in a cloth, and boil.
This receipt is more applicable to barrack and public institutions than
a camp. Fresh meat of any kind may be done the same, and boiled with
either salt pork or beef.
NO. 8.--TURKISH PILAFF FOR ONE HUNDRED MEN.
Put in the caldron 2lbs. of fat, which you have saved from salt pork,
add to it 4lbs. of peeled and sliced onions; let them fry in the fat for
about ten minutes; add in then 12lbs. of rice, cover the rice over with
water, the rice being submerged two inches, add to it 7 tablespoonfuls
of salt, and 1 of pepper; let simmer gently for about an hour, stirring
it with a spatula occasionally to prevent it burning, but when
commencing to boil, a very little fire ought to be kept under. Each
grain ought to be swollen to the full size of rice, and separate. In the
other stove put fat and onions the same quantity with the same
seasoning; cut the flesh of the mutton, veal, pork, or beef from the
bone, cut in dice of about 2oz. each, put in the pan with the fat and
onions, set it going with a very sharp fire, having put in 2 quarts of
water: steam gently, stirring occasionally for about half an hour, till
forming rather a rich thick gravy. When both the rice and meat are done,
take half the rice and mix with the meat, and then the remainder of the
meat and rice, and serve. Save the bones for soup for the following day.
Salt pork or beef, well soaked, may be used--omitting the salt. Any kind
of vegetables may be frizzled with the onions.
NO. 9.--BAKING AND ROASTING WITH THE FIELD STOVE.
By the removal of the caldron, and the application of a false bottom put
over the fire, bread bakes extremely well in the oven, as well as meat,
potatoes, puddings, &c. Bread might be baked in oven at every available
opportunity, at a trifling cost of fuel. The last experiment I made with
one was a piece of beef weighing about 25lbs., a large Yorkshire
pudding, and about 10lbs. of potatoes, the whole doing at considerably
under one pennyworth of fuel, being a mixture of coal and coke; the
whole was done to perfection, and of a nice brown colour. Any kind of
meat would, of course, roast the same.
_Baking in fixed Oven._--In barracks, or large institutions, where an
oven is handy, I would recommend that a long iron trough be made, four
feet in length, with a two-story movable grating in it, the meat on the
top of the upper one giving a nice elevation to get the heat from the
roof, and the potatoes on the grating under, and a Yorkshire pudding, at
the bottom. Four or five pieces of meat may be done on one trough. If no
pudding is made, add a quart more water.
NO. 10.--FRENCH BEEF SOUP, OR POT-AU-FEU, CAMP FASHION. FOR THE ORDINARY
CANTEEN-PAN.
Put in the canteen saucepan 6lbs. of beef, cut in two or three pieces,
bones included, ¾lb. of plain mixed vegetables, as onions, carrots,
turnips, celery, leeks, or such of these as can be obtained, or 3oz. of
preserved in cakes, as now given to the troops; 3 teaspoonfuls of salt,
1 ditto of pepper, 1 ditto of sugar, if handy; 8 pints of water, let it
boil gently three hours, remove some of the fat, and serve.
The addition of 1½lb. of bread cut into slices or 1lb. of broken
biscuits, well soaked, in the broth, will make a very nutritious soup;
skimming is not required.
NO. 11.--SEMI-FRYING, CAMP FASHION, CHOPS, STEAKS, AND ALL KINDS MEAT
OF.
If it is difficult to broil to perfection, it is considerably more so to
cook meat of any kind in a frying-pan. Place your pan on the fire for a
minute or so, wipe it very clean; when the pan is very hot, add in it
either fat or butter, but the fat from salt and ration meat is
preferable; the fat will immediately get very hot; then add the meat you
are going to cook, turn it several times to have it equally done; season
to each pound a small teaspoonful of salt, quarter that of pepper, and
serve. Any sauce or maître d’hôtel butter may be added. A few fried
onions in the remaining fat, with the addition of a little flour to the
onion, a quarter of a pint of water, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, a
few chopped pickles or piccalilly, will be very relishing.
NO. 11A.--TEA FOR EIGHTY MEN,
Which often constitutes a whole Company.
One boiler will, with ease, make tea for eighty men, allowing a pint
each man. Put forty quarts of water to boil, place the rations of tea in
a fine net, very loose, or in a large perforated ball; give one minute
to boil, take out the fire, if too much, shut down the cover; in ten
minutes it is ready to serve.
NO. 12.--COFFEE A LA ZOUAVE FOR A MESS OF TEN SOLDIERS,
As I have taught many how to make it in the camp, the canteen saucepan
holding 10 pints.
Put 9 pints of water into a canteen saucepan on the fire; when boiling
add 7½ oz. of coffee, which forms the ration, mix them well together
with a spoon or a piece of wood, leave on the fire for a few minutes
longer, or until just beginning to boil. Take it off and pour in 1 pint
of cold water, let the whole remain for ten minutes or a little longer.
The dregs of the coffee will fall to the bottom, and your coffee will be
clear.
Pour it from one vessel to the other, leaving the dregs at the bottom,
add your ration sugar or 2 teaspoonfuls to the pint; if any milk is to
be had make 2 pints of coffee less; add that quantity of milk to your
coffee, the former may be boiled previously, and serve.
This is a very good way for making coffee even in any family, especially
a numerous one, using 1 oz. to the quart if required stronger. For a
company of eighty men use the field-stove and four times the quantity of
ingredients.
NO. 13.--COFFEE, TURKISH FASHION.
When the water is just on the boil add the coffee and sugar, mix well as
above, give just a boil and serve. The grouts of coffee will in a few
seconds fall to the bottom of the cups. The Turks wisely leave it there,
I would advise every one in camp to do the same.
NO. 14.--COCOA FOR EIGHTY MEN.
Break eighty portions of ration cocoa in rather small pieces, put them
in the boiler, with five or six pints of water, light the fire, stir the
cocoa round till melted, and forming a pulp not too thick, preventing
any lumps forming, add to it the remaining water, hot or cold; add the
ration sugar, and when just boiling, it is ready for serving. If short
of cocoa in campaigning, put about sixty rations, and when in pulp, add
half a pound of flour or arrowroot.
EASY AND EXCELLENT WAY OF COOKING IN EARTHEN PANS.
A very favourite and plain dish amongst the convalescent and orderlies
at Scutari was the following:--
Soyer’s Baking Stewing Pan, the drawing of which I extract from my
“Shilling Cookery.” The simplicity of the process, and the economical
system of cooking which may be produced in it, induced me to introduce
it here.
Each pan is capable of cooking for fifteen men, and no matter how hard
may be the meat, or small the cutting, or poor the quality,--while fresh
it would always make an excellent dish. Proceed as follows:--Cut any
part of either beef (cheek or tail), veal, mutton, or pork, in fact any
hard part of the animal, in 4oz. slices; have ready for each 4 or 5
onions and 4 or 5 pounds of potatoes cut in slices; put a layer of
potatoes at the bottom of the pan, then a layer of meat, season to each
pound 1 teaspoonful of salt, quarter 1 of pepper, and some onion you
have already minced; then lay in layers of meat and potatoes alternately
till full; put in 2 pints of water, lay on the lid, close the bar, lock
the pot, bake two hours, and serve.
[Illustration: SOYER’S BAKING STEWING PAN.]