the use of a vise or pliers, to the shape and dimensions shown at A. When
the wire is placed on the bookshelf, as shown at B, it prevents the end
book from falling. Its location can be changed as books are added to the
shelf.--Contributed by John Y. Dunlop, Craighead, Scotland.
Laying Out a Dovetail Joint
[Illustration]
With dividers and compass lay off the width of the board into twice as
many parts as the dovetails wanted. Draw a light line, AB, across the
board as far from the end as half the thickness of the board. On this line
step off the divisions with the dividers, beginning with a half space
or division. With the bevel square, set to a bevel of 1 in. in 3, draw
lines through the division dots. This method will save much time and give
accurate results.--Contributed by Joseph F. Parks, Wichita, Kan.
Oiling Bright Parts of Machinery
It is my duty to go over the bright parts on the machinery in my father's
shop and give them a coat of oil late in the afternoon to prevent any
rust accumulating over night. As the work took considerable time from
my playing I thought of a plan that not only reduced the amount of work
but applied the grease much better than with a brush or rag. I procured
a sprayer, as shown in the sketch, and sprayed the oil on the bright
parts.--Contributed by Waller Kaufman, Santa Ana, California.
[Illustration: A Sprayer Filled with Oil Makes a Good Device for Coating
the Bright Parts of Machinery]
Window Ventilator to Prevent Drafts
The ventilator consists of a piece of wood, about 8 in. wide, 3 in. thick
and as long as the window is wide. Holes, 1-3/4 in. in diameter, are
bored at regular intervals into one edge and these are connected with
openings from one side as shown. The piece is set under the lower sash
with the long openings toward the outside. This will direct the incoming
air currents upward into the room.
[Illustration: The Ventilator Prevents the Air from Entering a Room in a
Straight Line]
A Chisel Rack
Turn two large screweyes into the under side of a shelf, as far apart
as is necessary, and slip a rod into the eyes. The rod may be kept from
slipping out by threading each end and turning on a nut after it is in
place. Hooks are made from heavy wire, in the shape of the letter "S," and
placed on the rod. A screweye is turned into the end of each chisel handle
and used for hanging the tool on an S-hook. As many hooks are provided as
there are tools in use. This method of hanging tools is especially adapted
for the wood turner.--Contributed by Wallace E. Fisher, New York, N. Y.
[Illustration: The Chisels are Kept Close at Hand and the Right Tool may
be Quickly Found]
Homemade Snap Hooks
[Illustration]
Having had occasion to use several snap hooks of various sizes and being
unable to find anything suitable for my purpose on the market, I procured
several cotters of the desired sizes and by bending them over, as shown
at A, and cutting them off, as at B, I had snap hooks which, besides
answering my original purpose, have also found use as key rings and
tool-chuck holders.--Contributed by Jos. J. Kolar, Maywood, Ill.
A Dropper and Cork for Medicine Bottles
[Illustration]
A convenient way to accurately drop medicine and liquids without any other
appliance than the cork is the following: Simply burn or puncture a smooth
hole in the cork as shown. Pull the cork out slightly when the liquid is
to be dropped, and when this is done, push the cork in and the bottle is
sealed.
Repairing a Broken Oilstone
A broken oilstone can be repaired and made as good as new in the following
manner: Warm the pieces by heating them on the top of a stove or gas
heater, with a piece of heavy sheet metal placed on it so as to protect
the stone from the direct heat of the flame. The heating should be done
somewhat slowly or the stone will crack.
When the stone is warm wipe off the oil which the heat has driven out and
apply a couple of coats of shellac to the broken ends. When the shellac
is thoroughly dry, warm the stone again to melt the shellac, and clamp
the pieces together. After cooling, the pieces will be found firmly stuck
together.--Contributed by F. L. Sylvester, Reading, Mass.
Homemade Towel Roller
[Illustration]
The towel roller is made of a piece of broom handle, 16 in. long, squared
on both ends and a nail driven in the center of each end. Procure two
small pieces of tin--disks about 1 in. in diameter will do--and drive a
hole through the center of each with a wire nail. Cut from one edge of
the disk down to the hole taking out a narrow V-shaped section.
Fasten each disk to a block and nail these to any convenient wall at such
a distance apart that the nail heads in the broomstick will slip down in
the slots and rest in the holes in the centers of the disks, which form
the bearings for the nail heads resting beyond the tin and next to the
block.
With a little care the tin can be made to bulge outwardly in the center
making room for the nail heads.--Contributed by L. Alberta Norrell,
Augusta, Ga.
Clothesline Reel
The usual method of reeling up a clothesline and taking it in is quite a
task and many times the lines are left out in the open from one wash day
to another, due to neglect or forgetfulness. I made the arrangement shown
in the sketch to take care of the line without any effort to the user.
[Illustration: Reel in the Basement]
All that is necessary with this arrangement is to take the end of the
line and run it over the hooks or sheaves on the posts and make it secure
around an awning fastener. When loosed, the weight in the basement will
wind up the line.
A knot can be tied in the line near the reel to catch at a hole in the
sill, which will prevent the strain on the reel. If the reel is made
to wind up 4 ft. of line to each revolution and the sash-cord shaft is
3/4 in. in diameter, about 100 ft. of line can be taken up in a basement
7 ft. high.--Contributed by A. E. Little, Akron, O.
* * * * *
Black-heart malleable iron derives its name from the
fact that in annealing only the outer layers of carbon
are oxidized, the carbon of the interior being simply
changed to a black amorphous state.
A Candle-Shade Holder
A holder for either round or square shades can be easily constructed from
a piece of heavy copper wire to fit on a candlestick. One end of the wire
is looped around the upper end of the candlestick, then bent so that the
main part will be vertical. The top end is shaped into a circle 2 in. in
diameter or a square having sides 2 in. long, as desired.--Contributed by
Harry Slosower, Pittsburgh, Pa.
[Illustration: Two Forms of Shade Holder Made of Copper Wire for a
Candlestick]
Wire Mesh Used as a Shelf
In covering a window back of my lathe with wire mesh as a protection I
also made a shelf for the tools between the window sill and the lathe bed
of the same material. The mesh used was 1/4-in. The shelf is always clean,
as the shavings and dirt fall through, and the tools may be readily picked
up.--Contributed by J. H. Sanford, Pasadena, California.
Heel Plates
A good heel or toe plate can be made by driving ordinary thumb tacks into
the leather of the shoe heel or sole. The shape can be varied by using
tacks having different-sized heads.--Contributed by James T. Gaffney,
Chicago, Ill.
[Illustration: The Heads of the Tacks Form a Wearing Surface Equal to an
Ordinary Heel Plate]
A Bright Dip for Metal
Articles of brass, copper and bronze may be given a bright luster by
dipping them into a solution composed of 50 oz. of nitric acid, 25 oz.
of sulphuric acid, liquid measure, and 1/2 oz. of soot and 1/2 oz. of
salt, by weight. After the articles are dipped into the solution they are
removed and thoroughly washed, then dried in sawdust to prevent streaks.
An Interesting Vacuum Experiment
[Illustration]
A very interesting experiment may be performed with two drinking glasses,
a small candle end and a piece of blotting paper, says the Pathfinder.
The glasses must be the same size and of the thin-glass kind. The candle
end is lighted and set in one glass; the blotting paper is well dampened
and placed on top of the glass, and the other glass inverted and its rim
placed exactly over the lower one and pressed down tightly. The candle
will burn up all the oxygen in the glass and go out.
The air in the glass being heated will expand and some of it will be
forced out from under the moist paper, and then, as the portion remaining
cools, it will contract and draw the upper glass on the paper and make an
air-tight joint. The upper glass can then be taken up and the lower one
will cling to it.
A Sliver Extractor
If a clipper for the finger nails becomes dull do not throw it away, but
keep it in the tool box in a handy place. It is very useful for extracting
slivers from the flesh.--Contributed by G. Wokenfuss, McCook, Neb.
Night Croquet Playing
Croquet playing became so interesting to us that we could not find time to
do all our playing during the day. So at night we attach a candle to each
of the wickets and also use one at each corner of the grounds. These light
the grounds so that the game can be played nicely. The candles may be
attached by wiring them to the wickets or by using small pasteboard boxes,
similar to a pill box of sufficient size, and running a wire through
the center or down the sides, which is hooked over the top to hold them
upright on top of the ground. The latter way is the better as the candles
may be pulled up in the day time and taken out of the way.--Contributed
by Geo. Goodbrod, Union, Ore.
A Nursing-Bottle Holder
The ordinary nursing bottle with nipple necessitates holding the bottle in
a certain position, and when the valve nipples are used, the bottle should
be held far enough away to allow this valve free action. To accomplish
this I constructed a very simple wire holder for the bottle as shown in
the illustration. Ordinary telephone wire will hold any bottle. The wire
is bent to hook on the side of the crib, cradle or cab.--Contributed by
W. A. Humphrey, Columbus, O.
[Illustration: Nursing Bottle in Holder]
Milk-Ticket Holder
An ordinary spring mousetrap makes a good bread or milk-ticket holder. The
wood part of the trap can be easily nailed or screwed to a door or window
casing. The way the tickets are held is clearly shown in the sketch.
[Illustration: Trap Used as Ticket Holder]
Joint for Cabinet Work
In making a cabinet containing 56 drawers of various sizes, I used the
method shown in the sketch for making the frame. The horizontal strips
A should be all fastened together when sawing the notches to fit over
the uprights. The uprights B should be sawn in the same manner. It is
best to round the front of the rear uprights slightly and also any other
places where the drawers might strike when pushing them into place. The
length of the runners C should be 1-1/2 in. less than the length of the
drawer.--Contributed by J. H. Dickson, Polk, Pa.
[Illustration: Details of Joint Construction]
* * * * *
Do not expect accurate work unless you have accurate
tools.
Starting a Saw Cut
A fine piece of woodwork is often spoiled by the amateur craftsman when
starting a cut with a saw. As the first stroke of the saw on the edge of
the board is made, the teeth often break a splinter from the edge or the
saw jumps to one side of the line, thereby making a rough and uneven cut.
This can be avoided in a very simple way.
[Illustration: Starting a Saw on a Knife Cut will Prevent Roughing or
Splintering the Edge]
After marking the line, take a sharp knife and make a cut across the edge,
as shown, and draw the knife down well over the corners of the board for
about 1/8 in. Place the saw on the cut and start it slowly. The saw blade
will follow the cut of the knife blade.
A Substitute Penholder
One evening when my wife was using the only penholder in the house
I desired to do some writing and being in a hurry, I hastily made a
substitute holder of a pencil. Two cuts were made in the butt end, as
shown; the pen was then slipped in, the outside wound with a rubber band,
and my penholder was complete.--Contributed by H. A. Sullwold, St. Paul,
Minn.
[Illustration: The End of the Pencil as It is Prepared to Receive the Pen]
Protecting Binding Posts on Wet Batteries from Corrosion
When recharging the cells of a wet battery it is best to procure the
best grade of sal ammoniac, the kind that is put up in boxes having a
sufficient amount for one cell. Then, before putting the solution into the
cell, melt some paraffin used for preserving purposes and dip the upper
end of the carbons, zinc, and the glass jar in it. This will apply a coat
of insulating wax that will prevent any white deposit from working up on
the parts and corroding the binding posts, or terminals.
The cells are then filled in the ordinary manner, after which the carbons
and zincs are raised just far enough to admit a layer of common machine
oil, about 3/8 in. thick. The oil not only prevents evaporation but aids
greatly to keep the uncovered parts from corrosion.--Contributed by L. R.
Kelley, Philadelphia, Pa.
A Cork Puller
[Illustration]
A very simple and easy way to remove a stopper from a bottle, when a cork
puller is not at hand, is to press two nails into the cork, as shown in
the sketch, and, taking a firm hold on both nails, draw the cork out.
Brads may be used on smaller corks. Large and tightly fitted corks may be
drawn by gripping the nails with a pair of pliers.--Contributed by W. A.
Jaquythe, Richmond, Cal.
Holder for a Garden-Hose Nozzle
[Illustration]
When sprinkling a lawn with an automatic spraying device on a hose
nozzle it is necessary to have some kind of an arrangement to tilt the
end at the proper angle. I find that a holder made of a heavy piece of
galvanized wire bent in the shape shown can be used to set the nozzle at
any angle. The wire is easily pushed into the earth and does no harm to
the lawn.--Contributed by T. J. Ingram, Jr., Lynchburg, Va.
Alarm to Designate a Filled Storage Battery
When a storage battery is recharged, the completion of the recharging
is marked by the development of gas in the cell. This fact is the basis
of a simple electrical device which will ring a bell when the battery is
fully charged. A glass tube bent as shown and having a small bulb near its
upper end is inserted in the top of the cell, a small quantity of mercury
being first introduced in the bend below the bulb. Wires extend down the
upper tubing to within a short distance of the mercury. These wires are
connected with binding posts so mounted that they can rest on top of the
tube, whereupon the bell circuit is completed as shown. Small quantities
of gas may develop during the charging of the cell, but if a small hole
is pierced in the tube between the mercury and the cell, this gas will
not exert pressure enough on the mercury to push it up and connect it with
the wires, which will take place first when the development of gas becomes
very active at the completion of the recharging.
[Illustration: The Gas Generated by a Filled Storage Battery will Make
Electric Connections and Sound an Alarm]
Stretching Poultry Fencing
The woven-wire poultry fencing is an unusually difficult thing to handle
and fasten on posts so that it will be taut and evenly stretched. The
best method I have ever seen for drawing this fencing and holding it
for nailing to a post is the use of the device shown in the sketch. It
consists of a board, as long as the fencing is wide, with screw hooks set
far enough apart to catch into the meshes of the wire, and a crosspiece
attached to the board by pieces of rope at the ends and provided with a
pulling loop in the center.--Contributed by Joseph C. Laackman, Meadow
Brook, Pa.
[Illustration: Board Fitted with Screw Hooks and a Pulling Device for
Stretching Poultry Fencing on Posts]
A Centering Gauge
The centering gauge consists of a piece of celluloid on which several
circles are drawn having different diameters, but all drawn from the same
center. A small hole is made at the center to admit the point of a center
punch. Two sets of circles may be drawn on one piece as shown, but the
lines should be spaced far enough apart to allow the metal to be clearly
seen through the celluloid. The sheet is placed on the end of a shaft and
adjusted so that a ring will match the circumference of the shaft, then
the center punch is set in the center hole and struck with a hammer. The
center punch for marking is shown in the sketch.--Contributed by Harry
Holst, San Francisco, Cal.
[Illustration: Circles Drawn on Celluloid to Adjust It on the End of a
Shaft in Finding the Center]
Homemade Letters for Marking Bags
[Illustration]
An initial marker for bags can be made of a beet or potato. Cut off enough
of the vegetable to provide a flat surface of sufficient size and then
cut out the letter as shown in the sketch, and use shoe blacking as ink.
In cutting, remember that most of the letters must be made reversed in
order to print right. For example, in making a B, draw it out on paper
and cut it out, then lay the face of the pattern on the flat surface of
the vegetable and cut around it.
To Keep a Crease in a Soft Hat
The crease in a soft hat can be kept in proper shape with the aid of a
paper clip. The clip is slipped over the fold inside of the hat which
forms the bottom part of the crease.--Contributed by Jas. M. Kane,
Doylestown, Pennsylvania.
[Illustration: Paper Clip on the Fold, Holding It in the Right Shape for
the Outside Crease]
A Shoe Scraper
[Illustration]
A good boot and shoe scraper for a step can be made of a worn-out and
discarded broom. Cut off the straws and strings as shown in the sketch,
allowing one string to hold them together, and make the notch the width
of the shoe. Tie the extending ends together, and mount the whole on a
suitable block, or, if desired, a hole can be bored in the step to receive
the handle, and the scraper thus securely attached.
This makes an effective scraper for the bottom as well as the sides of
shoes of almost any size.--Contributed by Jno. V. Loeffler, Evansville,
Ind.
A Vegetable Slicer
[Illustration]
A tin bucket or can makes a good slicer for vegetables when no other
slicer is at hand. A number of slots are cut across one side of the can,
and the lower edge of each slot slightly turned out to form a cutting
edge. The vegetable is placed against the top of the can and pushed down
over the slots. Each slot will cut off a slice which falls inside of the
can.
Bench Stop for Planing Thin Boards
[Illustration]
A bench stop for planing thin boards with a hand plane may be made in the
following manner: Procure a piece of strap iron about 1/4 in. thick, 1-1/2
or 2 in. wide, and about 6 in. long. File or grind one edge sharp on top
and drill a 1/4-in. hole through the center. Cut a slot in a board or in
the workbench large enough to receive the stop A flat. Place enough strips
of rubber or fit two coil springs, B, to raise the sharp edge out of the
slot. Insert a screw in the hole of the stop and adjust it to the desired
height by turning the screw up or down.
* * * * *
In a case of emergency, lemon juice may be used as
soldering flux.
A Jardinière Pedestal
The pedestal may be made of any close-grained wood, such as basswood
or maple, if the stain is to be walnut or mahogany, but it can also
be constructed of quarter-sawed oak and finished in a waxed mission or
varnished surface. The material required is as follows:
1 top, 12 by 12 by 7/8 in., S-2-S.
2 caps, 6 by 6 by 7/8 in., S-2-S.
1 upright, 18 by 4 by 4 in., S-4-S.
1 base, 8 by 8 by 7/8 in., S-2-S.
The top is centered and a circle, 11-1/2 in. in diameter, is drawn upon
it, and sawn out. The caps are also centered and circles drawn upon them,
5-1/2 in. and 3-1/2 in. in diameter. Saw them out on the larger circles
and center them in a wood lathe and turn out the wood in the smaller
circles to a depth of 1/2 in. The upright is then centered in the lathe
and turned to 3-1/2 in. in diameter for its full length.
[Illustration: The Pedestal can be Made of a Wood Suitable for Finishing
to Match Other Furniture]
The base and foot pieces are cut out as shown, fitted together and
fastened with screws from the under side. One of the caps is mounted in
the center on the base and the other cap in the center on the under side
of the top. The upright is then placed in the turned-out parts of the caps
and either glued or fastened with screws.
If light wood is used, the finish can be walnut or mahogany. A very pretty
finish can be worked out in pyrography, if one is familiar with that
work.--Contributed by Russell T. Westbrook, Dover, N. J.
A Lawn-Tennis Marker
The liquid receptacle is a metal biscuit box, about 9 in. square
and mounted on a wheel with a handle, the whole being similar to a
wheelbarrow. The wheel is 7 in. in diameter and 2-1/2 in. thick. The wheel
and box are bolted between two pieces of strap iron in the manner shown,
and the handle is attached back of the box. If the box is of very thin
metal, boards should be placed within on the sides where it is fastened to
the strap iron. A roller is pivoted in the box at the lower back corner
and a canvas tape or band run over the roller and wheel in the manner of
a belt. The tape should run through a slot cut in the front part of the
box, about midway between the top and the bottom. The edges of the tin in
the slot must be turned over and hammered down to make a smooth surface
for the tape to run over.--Contributed by George N. Bertram, Toronto, Can.
[Illustration: A Marker That will Make a Clear, White Line on the Ground
for a Tennis Court]
Removing Tannin Stains from Teacups
A small portion of hyposulphite of soda mixed with vinegar will make
a good cleaner for teacups having tannin stains. This process does not
injure the finest china and is inexpensive. The same solution works quite
well on clothes that are accidentally stained with tea. They should be
washed out and dried quickly after its application in order to make this
method most effective.--Contributed by Loren Ward, Des Moines, Iowa.
[Illustration: Weaving the Top of the Stool by Using a Wet Weaver of Reed]
Woven-Top Stool
The material necessary for this stool is as follows:
4 legs, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 16 in.
4 bottom rails, 7/8 by 1-3/4 by 16 in.
4 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 16-1/2 in.
4 diagonal braces, 7/8 by 1-3/4 by 6 in.
[Illustration: Construction of the Frame and Manner of Laying the Weavers
for the Top]
The legs are mortised so the top rails come level. The upper rails are
tenoned on the sides only and beveled at the ends. For the bottom rails,
the mortises are made one above the other, the rails being tenoned on all
sides. The braces are cut at 45 on each end and glued into place.
In weaving the top, proceed as follows: Use a wet weaver and wrap one
layer over the entire top, the strips being placed close together and
tightly wound. Start the second layer at right angles to the first by
going under one strip, then over three strips, under three, and so on,
by threes, until that strip is finished. Start the second by going under
two strips, then over three, under three, and so on, as before. The third
strip should start by going under three, then over and under three, etc.
Start the fourth by going over one, then under three, and over three, as
in the preceding; the fifth, start over two, then under and over three,
repeatedly. The sixth, and last of the series, begin over three and then
continue, by threes, as before. Having finished one series, the remainder
of the top should be completed in similar order. Good white shellac
makes the best finish for the seat; the stool itself may be finished to
suit.--Contributed by Russel Dodsworth, Erie, Pa.
Preserving Shafting from Rust and Corrosion
In a laboratory it was very difficult to keep the line shaft and
countershafts bright and free from rust, owing to the fumes and gases
issuing from the several fume closets within the same room. The following
method was tried, and proved very satisfactory. The shafting was covered
with two coats of flat white paint and allowed to dry, after which a coat
of white enamel was applied, giving it a clean, glossy, and sanitary
appearance. This eliminated all the trouble of cleaning it with emery
cloth, and it also made it appear in harmony with the other furnishings
of the laboratory.--Contributed by Geo. F. Stark, Norwich, N. Y.
[Illustration: Reed Furniture By Chas. M. Miller]
Reed Furniture By Chas. M. Miller
A Reed Basket
Inasmuch as there is a great demand for reed furniture and since good
weavers are comparatively few in number, it would be well to learn the
process of reed weaving. The weaving operations can be learned much
better through the construction of some small article, such as a basket
or jardinière cover. The center is the most difficult part of the basket
making, and it is best to begin with wood bottoms, as the whole basket
can be kept in a much better form due to the stiffness furnished by such
a bottom. It is also an approach to the reed furniture which is woven on
framework. The objectionable feature of the wood bottoms is the unfinished
appearance of the wood edge showing through, but this can be overcome by
the use of the roll shown in the illustration.
[Illustration]
While the wood bottoms have been used for this class of work for a number
of years, the roll is new and is very popular with those who have seen and
used it. The roll can be placed in many ways on different-shaped baskets,
and other reed pieces, so that it is best to master this piece of work
thoroughly before attempting the other, or larger, pieces that will be
described later, in other articles.
[Illustration]
The description is for a basket 5 in. in diameter and 3 in. high, as
shown in the illustration. A disk of wood, 1/4 in. thick and 5 in. in
diameter, is required. Basswood makes the best bottom, but pine, or cedar,
will do. Cut a board about 6 in. square, and draw diagonal lines on it
intersecting at the center, then draw a circle, 5 in. in diameter, as
shown in Fig. 1; also another circle, using the same center, 4-3/4 in. in
diameter. Set compass points about 5/8 in. apart, and step off spaces on
the inner circle to make 24 points. This will have to be tried out more
than once, to get the spaces to come out evenly and just have the right
number of points. Holes are bored with a 1/8-in. bit, just inside of the
inner circle, back of the places marked by the compass points, as shown in
Fig. 2. Cut the board on the outside circle with a coping, or turn, saw,
to make the circle, as in Fig. 3. Do not saw out the circle before boring
the holes, as otherwise the disk might split out in places.
[Illustration: The Bottom is Cut from a Piece of Wood to Give Strength
and to Avoid the Most Difficult Part of the Weaving (Fig. 1)]
[Illustration: (Fig. 2)]
[Illustration: (Fig. 3)]
The reeds placed vertically are called spokes, and the horizontal ones are
the weavers. For the spokes, what is called a No. 4 reed is used. Do not
wet the spokes before putting them through the wood. Allow the ends to
project about 5-1/2 in. below the bottom, as shown in Fig. 4. Place the
bottom, with the spokes, in water, and soak them thoroughly, especially
the part below the bottom. About 15 minutes of soaking will be sufficient
to make them pliable enough to bend over at right angles. It will not
injure the wood bottom to soak it with the reeds. As shown at A, Figs. 4
and 5, each spoke below the wood bottom is bent, down and back of the two
nearest spokes, B and C, then out between the third and fourth spokes, C
and D, and so on. The last two spokes, Y and Z, Fig. 6, are forced under
the spokes A and B, respectively. In this illustration the spoke Y is
shown as it is being inserted under the spoke A. When this operation is
completed, the bottom will have the appearance of a fireworks pinwheel.
[Illustration: (Fig. 4)]
[Illustration: The Reeds are Attached to the Bottom and Their Lower Ends
Bent as Shown (Fig. 5)]
[Illustration: (Fig. 6)]
Continue the bending of the spokes, in the same direction, up and across
the thickness of the wood in front of three other spokes and behind the
fourth, as shown in Fig. 7. This would not cover the edge of the wood
entirely, and, for this reason, other short spokes must be inserted in
front of each of the first ones before it is brought up across the edge
of the wood. These supplementary spokes should be about 4 in. long. The
manner of inserting these spokes before making the bend is shown at G and
T, Fig. 6. The double spokes must be pressed down flat, when brought up
in place, without riding one on the other. If the ends are too long and
interfere with the next pair, they can be cut off a little with a flat
chisel, or knife, being careful not to make them too short, or the pieces
will not stay in place. If there is still an open space, an extra, short
spoke can be inserted to crowd the pieces together and fill up the space.
[Illustration: The Lower Ends of the Spokes are Turned to Cover the Edge
of the Bottom... (Fig. 7)]
[Illustration: (Fig. 8)]
[Illustration: (Fig. 9)]
When the roll is completed, insert three weavers, of No. 3 reed that
has been soaked about 15 minutes, placing them between the spokes A and
B, B and C, and C and D, as shown in Fig. 8. Pass weaver L in front of
the spokes B and C, then back of D and out between D and E. Weaver M is
passed in front of C and D, back of E and out in front of E and F. These
operations are clearly shown in Fig. 9. The weaver N is placed in front
of D and E, back of F and then in front of G and H. At this point the
weaver L is used again. The weaver farthest behind each time is brought
in front of the two spokes nearest to it, then behind the third and out
in front of the next two spokes. Do not try to use weavers longer than
8 ft., which is about half the length of a reed. When a weaver is used up,
press it back to the side a little, push in a new reed about 1-1/2 in.,
and continue the weaving. This is clearly shown in Fig. 10. This weaving
is known as the triple weave, which cinches down well and holds tightly.
The first round should be carefully worked, so as to get the ends of the
roll properly pressed down flat in place. Each throw of the weaver should
be well pressed down.
[Illustration: (Fig. 10)]
[Illustration: ...Then the Reeds are Woven into the Upright Spokes to the
Right Height, Where They are Broken Down and Woven into a Top Border (Fig.
11)]
[Illustration: (Fig. 12)]
The break-down-tight border is used for the finish at the top. The first
operation in making this border is shown in Fig. 11. The spoke A is bent
over back of spoke B and out between spokes B and C. The spoke B is bent
over back of the spoke C and out between C and D, and so on, until the
spoke E is turned down. Then take the end of the spoke A, Fig. 12, and
lay it over B, C, D, and E, in front of F, back of G, and out between G
and H. The end of spoke F is then brought down, also between G and H, but
back of the end of A. The end of B takes a similar leap, passes behind H
and out between H and J; then G is brought down behind the end of B, in
the same manner as F was brought down back of A. The last four or five
spokes are the most difficult to handle, as they must be forced through
the first ones to correspond with those already in place. It is best not
to pull the ends of A, B, C, and D down too tightly at first, keeping in
mind that the last ones must be inserted under the first ones. The last
standing spokes are represented by the full and shaded lines.
If the roll illustrated in Figs. 11 and 12 is too difficult, a simple
break-down can be used, such as shown in Fig. 13. To make this finish,
spoke A is turned back of spoke B, in front of spoke C and back of spoke
D, but not out again. Spoke B is bent back of C, in front of D, and back
of E. The others are turned down the same way. The manner in which the
two last spokes are turned down and inserted is shown by the double dotted
lines.
[Illustration: A Simple Break-Down Roll for the Top... (Fig. 13, Fig. 14)]
The remainder of the illustrations show the method of forming a roll
between the first and second spokes, where only three spokes are turned
down before the throwing-across process begins. The first three spokes
turned down are shown in Fig. 14, and the throwing over, in Fig. 15. The
second beginning is shown in Fig. 16. The finishing of this top is shown
in Figs. 17 and 18. The full, heavy lines represent the final insertions,
and the reed must be in quite a sharp loop to make the end enter the right
place. It is then drawn down and forced in front of the other reed that
passes out between the same spokes.
[Illustration: ...Also a Method of Forming a Roll between the First
and Second Spokes Where Only Three Spokes are Turned Down Before the
Throwing-Across Process Begins (Fig. 15, Fig. 16, Fig. 17, Fig. 18)]
When the basket is dry, the long ends can be cut off close up with a
knife, being careful not to cut a weaver. If there are hairy fibers
sticking out they can be singed off over a gas, or other, flame that will
not smut. If it requires bleaching, brush some chloride of lime, mixed in
a little water, over the reeds and set in the sunlight for a short time.
It is better to leave the finish a little dark rather than use too much
bleaching, as the latter will give an objectionable whitish appearance
that looks like a poor job of painting.
In working the reeds, do not leave them in the water longer than
necessary, as this will turn them dark. A bleached reed will stand the
water much longer than in the natural state. Dampen the reed frequently
while weaving it, as the weavers pack down much closer when wet. The
dampening process is also required to remedy the drying out caused by
whisking the reeds through the air in weaving operations. A great variety
of baskets can be made from this form, viz., low, tall, tapering vase
forms, bowl shapes, etc., in plain or dark weaves.
Wireless-Lighted Lamp Deception
Window displays of puzzling nature usually draw crowds. A lighted globe
lying on its side in full view, yet apparently not connected to any source
of electricity, could easily be arranged as a window display, deceiving
the closest observer. A mirror, or window glass, backed with some opaque
material, should be used for the foundation of the device. For the display
lamp, it is best to use a 25 or 40-watt tungsten, as these will lie
flatter on the glass than the larger sizes, and the deception will not be
as easily discovered. The place where the brass cap of the lamp touches
the glass should be marked and a small hole drilled through to the wire
connecting the tungsten filament to the plug on the top of the lamp. At
any suitable place, a hole should be drilled in the glass plate, no larger
than is necessary, to permit two small cotton-covered magnet wires to pass
through. One of the wires should be looped, passed through the hole in
the cap and hooked onto the bare wire connecting with the plug on top of
lamp. The other wire should be fastened to the brass cap, near the drilled
hole, after which the lamp may be placed in position and the two wires
connected to a source of electricity. If proper care has been taken and
no crosses occur, the lamp will light, and if the display is placed in
the proper surroundings, it will prove very deceiving. To protect against
a fuse blow-out from a short circuit, it is advisable to run another lamp
in series with the display lamp, as shown.--Contributed by Clyde W. Epps,
Mineola, Tex.
[Illustration: An Electric Globe Lighted on a Piece of Glass Makes a Good
Window Attraction]
Live Bait Used in Fishing
With the simple device illustrated, no fisherman need worry over running
short of bait or even regarding the usual repeated baiting of the hook.
A small clear-glass bottle should be procured, and several hooks wired to
it about the neck, or at each end, as desired or found best after several
trials. After filling the bottle with water a live minnow is placed in it,
and the bottle is sealed with a cork, which is notched around the edge to
permit water to enter or leave the bottle without losing the bait. If live
grasshoppers, or similar bait, is desired the cork can be used unnotched
to form a watertight stopper. As illuminated bait for night fishing,
several fireflies can be put in the bottle.--Contributed by L. Wahrer,
Tiffin, Ohio.
[Illustration: The Bait is Kept Alive and Unharmed in a Bottle Surrounded
with Hooks]
Bookrack
The material necessary for the illustrated bookrack is as follows:
2 end pieces, 5/8 by 5-1/4 by 6 in.
1 shelf 5/8 by 5-1/4 by 13 in.
The shelf is cut rectangular, 5-1/4 in. wide by 14-1/2 in. long. Its two
ends should then be provided with tenons 3/8 in. thick by 4-1/4 in. wide,
and extending out 1/4 inch.
[Illustration: A Bookrack That can be Made in Any Wood to Match Other
Furniture]
The end pieces, after being cut to the given dimensions, are marked off
and cut out for mortises to fit the shelf tenons.
In assembling the parts, they are glued in place, and clamped with hand
screws until the glue has set. Any of the good mission stains, properly
applied, will give a finished appearance to the bookrack.
A Paper Gas Pipe
When one fits up an attic or a back room as a workshop, it is seldom that
a gas connection is available on about the same level as the workbench
so that a Bunsen burner and soldering apparatus may be operated. To
install the standard gas pipe, it would be necessary either to alter
the chandelier connection or to tear up some of the plaster, the former
plan resulting in a rather conspicuous display of pipe and the latter in
considerable expense. The following method permits the rolling of a pipe,
about the size of a lead pencil, from paper that becomes so stiff that it
is almost impossible to crush it between the thumb and fingers. This small
inconspicuous pipe may be run directly from the side of the valve on the
chandelier to the wall, as shown in the sketch, thence down some corner
formed by a door jamb or window frame, which protects it and renders it
almost unnoticeable.
[Illustration: The Tube is Run Out Horizontally from the Chandelier to
the Wall Where the Drop is Connected]
A good grade of tough Manila paper should be procured and cut into strips,
about 18 in. long and wide enough to build up a tube at least 1/32 in. in
diameter. This will require from 4 to 6 in., according to the thickness
of the paper. A piece of 1/4-in. round iron or hard wood, 20 in. long,
is procured and carefully oiled or greased. Apply a coat of strong fish
glue to one of these pieces of paper, omitting a strip along one edge,
about 1 in. wide. Using the outspread fingers of each hand, begin with the
unglued edge and roll the paper around the wood. As it is impossible to
get the paper uniformly tight with the fingers, select a smooth place on
the table and then roll the newly formed tube forward by means of a piece
of board, as shown in the illustration. On the return stroke lift the
board. In this way it is possible to get a tight, smooth tube. Immediately
withdraw the core, twisting it slightly in a reverse direction if it tends
to stick. Before using the core again, make sure it is free from glue
and regrease it. When a sufficient number of tubes have been made and
hardened, neatly trim the ends off squarely, and then form an equal number
of short tubes, about 2 in. long, by winding a strip of glued paper on
a large wire nail until a diameter is reached that will fit snugly into
the pipes already made. The joints may then be set up with strong glue
and finally wrapped with two thicknesses of paper on the outside. The
construction of these joints is shown in the cross section.
The connection with the chandelier can be made by means of a metal tube
soldered in at a point where the regular valve will cut off all connection
with the paper piping when it is not in use. This metal tube should be
coated with thick shellac, and the paper tube slipped over it for 1 in.
or more, after which the joint should be given several additional coats
on the outside. A small regulating gas cock can be attached to the lower
end of the piping, and if this is rigidly fastened to the wall, or casing,
the connecting and disconnecting of the rubber tubing will not disturb
the piping in any way.--Contributed by John D. Adams.
Rubbing Slats for a Washing Board
In an emergency, and to substitute something for a broken glass rubbing
plate on an ordinary washing board, I fitted a series of 3/8-in. dowels
horizontally across the board, closely together. This proved to be better
than glass or zinc, as fabrics adhered to the wood dowels and caused them
to revolve, making a more desirable rubbing surface and accomplishing
the work of loosening the dirt in the fabric with far less effort than
that necessary on the metal or glass board.--Contributed by H. M. Spamer,
Vineland, N. J.
Catching Bugs Attracted by Light
[Illustration]
Bugs, moths, and insects attracted by lights on summer evenings can be
caught by means of sticky fly paper, suspended as shades around the lamps.
Cuts in the shade allow the greater portion of the light to pass through
and attract the bugs, which will surely be caught as they travel about
the light onto the sticky paper. It is advisable to make two shades at
the same time from a double sheet of the sticky paper, pasted, as when
bought, with the sticky faces together so that the shades may be cut and
handled easier.--Contributed by John J. Kolar, Maywood, Illinois.
* * * * *
Oilcans should be marked to indicate the kind of oil
in them.
Needle Box for Talking Machines
An empty cigarette box can be easily changed to a useful container for
talking-machine needles, as shown in the sketch. Take a fairly heavy
card, trim it to the same length as the box, then bend and crease it, as
shown at A, and glue the short, upright side to the inside of the box.
Cut another card to the shape B, so that the depth C equals the inside
depth of the box, and the side D is as long as its width. The side E
should equal the inclined length of the card A, and is glued upon it
when B is in position. The three compartments may be suitably labeled as
indicated.--Contributed by V. A. Rettich, New York, N. Y.
[Illustration: Three Compartments are Provided with Sloping Bottoms in a
Neat Box for the Needles]
Trick of Taking Dollar Bill from Apple
A rather pleasing, yet puzzling, deception is to pass a dollar bill into
the interior of an examined lemon or apple. This can be accomplished
in several ways, either mechanically or purely by sleight of hand.
The mechanical method, of course, is the easier and really just as
effective. In performing, a plate with three apples is first exhibited,
and the audience is given choice of any one for use in the experiment.
The selected one is tossed out for examination and then returned to the
performer, who places it in full view of the spectators while he makes
the dollar bill vanish. Taking the knife he cuts the apple into two
pieces, requesting the audience to select one of them. Squeezing this
piece he extracts the dollar bill therefrom. The entire secret is in the
unsuspected article--the table knife.
[Illustration: The Dollar Bill is Hidden in the Knife Handle That Cuts
the Apple]
The knife is prepared by boring out the wooden handle to make it hollow.
Enough space must be made to hold a dollar bill. The knife lies on the
plate with the fruit, the open end facing the performer. After the
bill has been made to vanish and the examined apple returned to the
entertainer, he takes it and cuts it in half. One of the halves is chosen,
the performer impaling it on the end of the knife blade and holding it
out to view. While still holding the knife he turns the blade downward
and grasps the half apple and crushes it with a slight pass toward the
knife-handle end where the bill is grasped along with the apple, which
makes a perfect illusion of taking the bill out of the apple.
As to the disappearance of the dollar bill, there are many ways in which
this may be accomplished. Perhaps the method requiring the least practice
is to place the bill in the trousers pocket, and then show the audience
that the latter is empty. This can be done by rolling the bill to small
compass, and pushing it into the extreme upper corner of the pocket where
it will remain undetected while the pocket is pulled out for inspection.
Other combinations can be arranged with the use of the knife, which is
simple to make and very inexpensive.
Guide for Making Buttonholes
It is almost impossible to make a perfect buttonhole in the ordinary
manner by hand without a guide. The illustration shows a very simple
guide that can be easily made by anyone. Procure two pieces of tin, or
sheet brass, cut them as shown, and drill holes in them large enough for a
needle, so that it will be easy to fasten them to the cloth with basting
thread. Cut the buttonhole slot, then punch a hole at the end with an
ordinary belt punch. Such a punch can be purchased from a local hardware
dealer in any size. In making the buttonhole stitch, keep the needle
close against the metal edge of the guide, as shown.--Contributed by A.
L. Kerbaugh, Allentown, Pa.
[Illustration: The Form of the Buttonhole is Cut in the Edges of the Two
Pieces of Metal]
* * * * *
An easy way to put varnish in the grooves of a tennis
racket is to use a medicine dropper.
[Illustration]
A Child's Playhouse
The child's playhouse is an expensive luxury, if it is purchased ready
to set up, but by following the instructions given herewith a large and
inexpensive one may be constructed.
[Illustration: The Covered Framework can be Used In or Outdoors, as
Desired, and When Set Up and the Wings Swung Back, It Presents the
Appearance of a House]
Procure about 100 ft. of 1-3/4 by 1-1/2-in. boards, and saw out pieces, as
shown. With the use of iron brackets instead of nails, it will be found
much easier to construct than if the corners are mortised and nailed or
glued. The frame will also be much stronger.
[Illustration: The Entire Framework is Held Together with Brackets, and
is Hinged at the Joints, so That It can be Folded Up and Put into a Small
Space, the Sections being Covered with Colored Burlap to Make Them Appear
Solid... (Fig. 1)]
When the frame is completed, burlap is tacked on to make the covering.
The burlap can be purchased cheaply, and the best color to use is either
green, red or brown. This material should be fastened on the different
sections before they are hinged together. To prevent the burlap from
unraveling, turn the edges under before tacking them down.
A piece of wire screen is used for the door. An old piece will do, if it
is well coated with black or dark-green paint. It is then tacked on the
inside of the door. Fasten the different parts together with the hinges.
The hinges are fastened on the inside of the side wings, and on the
outside of the two front pieces. With the hinges placed in this manner,
the house can be folded into a small space.
For the one built by the writer, green burlap was used, and by trimming
the door and window frames along the edges with white paint a very pretty
effect was produced.
[Illustration: ...On the Right is Shown the Awning-Frame Construction
(Fig. 2, Fig. 3)]
A small awning was made over the window, which improved the appearance
very much. Roller shades on the door and window and an electric door bell
completed a very neat and practical playhouse.
Removing Basketball from Closed-Bottom Receptacle
The closed-bottom basket used in the game of basketball is so high that
it is difficult to remove the ball after a goal is made. Generally a long
stick is used for this purpose, but I desired to have a better way, and
the device shown in the illustration was the outcome. A light iron rod was
hinged to the edge of the basket and bent to its inner shape, the lower
end resting at about the center of the basket. A rope was attached to
the lower end and run up and over a sheave pulley attached to the basket
support, then down so it could be easily grasped. When a goal is made, it
is only necessary to give a pull on the rope for throwing the ball out of
the basket.--Contributed by Annie B. Currine, San Diego, Cal.
[Illustration: The Iron Rod in the Basket Throws the Ball Out When the
Rope is Pulled]
Testing Dry Batteries
For testing dry batteries or any low-voltage current, take an ordinary
thermometer and wind around the mercury bulb enough wire to make about 10
ohms resistance. This will make a good tester. A dry cell of about 2 volts
attached to the ends of the wire should generate enough heat to expand
the mercury about four degrees in one-half minute.
This tester is not as fast as a voltmeter, nor has it as wide a range,
but it is reasonably accurate, and by using a battery of known voltage,
the winding can be increased or diminished to allow the mercury to expand
as many degrees as desired per volt.--Contributed by E. H. Kimbrough,
Bartlett, Kan.
A Wall-Paper Cleaner
To 1 qt. of flour add about 2 oz. of 90-per-cent ammonia and enough
lukewarm water to make a dough. Wipe the paper with this preparation while
turning and kneading it as in making dough. This will take up the dirt
and a clean side is always presented to the paper.--Contributed by F. C.
Myer, Tacoma, Wash.
[Illustration]
A Trunk Mystery
Doubtless every person has seen the trunk mystery, the effect of which is
as follows: A trunk, mounted upon four legs, is brought out on the stage
and proven to be empty by turning it all the way around to show that there
is nothing on the back, whereupon pieces of plate glass are placed along
the back, sides, and front, the trunk is closed and given a swift turn and
then opened, when to the amazement of all, a lady steps out appearing to
come from nowhere. The secret of this trick is very simple, and the trunk
can be made up very cheaply.
[Illustration: A Shelf and Panel Set at Right Angles to Form a Place at
the Back for the Assistant to Conceal Herself, No Matter Which Way the
Trunk is Turned to Face the Audience]
In the back of the trunk there is a movable panel with a shelf exactly
the same size as the panel attached to its bottom, forming a right angle,
the corner of which is hinged to the bottom of the trunk. The back panel
can be turned in until it rests on the bottom of the trunk and, when this
is done, the shelf part rises and takes its place, making the back of the
trunk appear solid.
[Illustration]
When the trunk is brought out upon the stage, the assistant is crouching
on the shelf. The trunk can then be shown empty. This is all very simple
until the trunk is turned around when it takes skill not to give the
trick away. As soon as the performer starts to turn the trunk around, the
assistant shifts her weight on the panel, thus causing it to fall inward
and bring the shelf up to make the back appear solid. The assistant is
now in the trunk, and the back can be shown clear of any apparatus. When
the trunk is turned to the front again, the lady repeats the previous
operation in the opposite direction, thus bringing her body to the back
of the trunk again.
To make the trick appear more difficult, glass plates are made to insert
in the ends, front and back of the trunk. In making the trunk, have the
back the same size as the bottom. Fit the piece of glass for the back
into a light frame, similar to a window frame. This frame is hinged to
the bottom of the trunk and is 1/2 in. smaller all around than the back
of the trunk, so that the two pieces of glass can be put in the ends and
also allow the back frame and glass to fall flush in the bottom of the
trunk. A few rubber bumpers are fastened in the bottom of the trunk to
catch the glass without noise as it falls. The best way to work this is
for the performer to let the frame down with his right hand while he is
closing up the front with his left.
As soon as the trunk is closed, the assistant again shifts her weight to
cause the panel to fall in and then the trunk can be turned to show the
back, or whirled around and turned to the front again, then opened up,
whereupon the assistant steps out, bows to the audience, and leaves the
stage.
How to Make a Candy-Floss Machine
Every person is familiar with candy floss, made at stands on fair grounds,
or carnivals, in an expensive whirling machine. It is not necessary to
wait for a fair or a carnival to have a bunch of candy floss, as it can
be made at home much quicker than making taffy candy.
[Illustration]
The device for making the candy floss consists of ordinary things that
can be had in any home, and usually a boy has a battery motor of some kind
that will furnish the power.
[Illustration: The Disk is Driven by a Small Battery Motor and Melted
Sugar is Spun Out into Floss]
Procure a tin pan, the shape of an ordinary dish pan and of medium size;
cut a hole about one-half the diameter of the pan in the bottom and solder
in a conical-shaped piece similar to a cake pan, allowing it to extend
up inside about half the height of the pan. Fasten supports to the pan so
that a Bunsen burner can be set under it where the flame will pass through
the conical center opening.
Mount a small battery motor with its shaft vertical, pulley end up, and
centering the conical hole, on a base, which supports the pan. Procure a
can cover, similar to that used on coffee cans, and fasten it with solder
to the pulley on the motor shaft, being careful to locate it centrally so
that it will run smoothly.
Close to the bottom and in the rim of the can cover, make a number of
small holes with a prickpunch, or other sharp-pointed tool. Wire the motor
to the battery, and the candy-floss machine is ready for use.
Light the burner, start the motor, and pour a little granulated sugar in
the revolving can cover. As the sugar is melted, it will be spun out in
floss form through the small holes into the pan receiver.--Contributed by
Herbert Hahn, Chicago, Ill.
Enlarging Pictures
A very simple and sufficiently accurate way of enlarging pictures by
means of a pencil holder and elastic is shown in the illustration. The
picture to be enlarged is fastened to a table top or drawing board, and
the paper on which it is to be drawn is placed directly below it. A small
brad or tack is driven into the board at A, the location depending on the
desired size of the enlarged picture, and the elastic is attached to it.
The pencil holder B is fastened to the other end of the elastic over the
drawing paper. A pointer, or a knot, is placed in the elastic at C. The
pencil holder consists of a stick of wood turned into a handle with a hole
bored centrally for a pencil.
[Illustration: The Size of the Enlarged Picture Depends on the Length of
the Elastic and the Spacing of Pencil and Pointer]
In use, the pencil is moved over the drawing paper while the knot or
pointer is watched, to keep it following the lines of the original
drawing. The stretch of the elastic is sufficient to enlarge the
parts equally, as well vertically as horizontally.--Contributed by Wm.
Weitzsacker, Buffalo, N. Y.
Distance Chart for Wireless Stations
The amateur wireless telegrapher may be troubled more or less regarding
distances from other stations. The difficulty can be overcome by following
a plan similar to that of a parcel-post map. A map should be selected
covering the desired territory. With the home station as center, circles
should be drawn to diameters corresponding in length to the scale used
on the map. By measuring the distance other stations may be from any of
these circles, their cross-country distance from the home station can be
determined at a glance.--Contributed by E. L. Hartlett, Wausau, Wis.
[Illustration: Circles on a Map the Same as for Parcel Post to Designate
Wireless Distances]
A Carrier for Fishhooks
Hooks that are attached to gut or short strings are difficult to carry and
to keep in good shape for use on a line. I made a carrier that overcame
this trouble, from a block of wood. The block is 1/2 in. in thickness with
brads driven into one end, for engaging the loops on the gut or string,
while the hook is caught on the opposite end, the block being just long
enough for the short line. The hooks will be held securely, and the block
can be carried in the pocket.--Contributed by Victor E. Carpenter, South
Bend, Ind.
[Illustration: The String is Drawn Taut over the Block, and the Hooks are
Caught in the Block End]
A Substitute for a Pen
Recently I was hard pressed for a pen, and as none could be found and the
hour was late it was necessary to find a substitute. I fashioned a pen
from a piece of boxwood, and was agreeably surprised at the excellent
results obtained with it. The wood was sharpened like a lead pencil
at one end, and a groove was cut out of the tapered part to hold the
ink.--Contributed by Richard F. Pohle, Lynn, Massachusetts.
[Illustration: A Notch Cut in the Tapered Part of a Wood Stick Forms a
Substitute Pen]
* * * * *
A very convenient method of keeping shipping tags at
hand is to slip them on a desk spindle.
A Bucket-Ball Game
This is a new indoor game which follows out in principle the regular
baseball play. It is an exciting and interesting pastime, and while a
certain amount of skill is required to score runs, a person who cannot
play the regular game can score as many runs, and as often, as the best
players in the national leagues.
[Illustration: The Frame is Made Up without a Back, to Hold the Buckets
at an Angle That Makes It Difficult to Toss the Ball So That It will Stay
in Any One of Them (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4)]
Anyone that is just a little handy with tools can make the necessary
parts for this game. The tools required are a hammer and a saw, and the
materials consist of some finishing nails; three strips of wood, 6 ft.
long, 2 in. wide, and 1 in. thick; two strips, 18 in. long, 4 in. wide,
and 1 in. thick; four strips, 24 in. long, 2 in. wide, and 1 in. thick;
two strips, 18 in. long, 2 in. wide, and 1 in. thick; two blocks, 4 in.
square, and 1 in. thick, and four wood buckets.
A frame is built up as shown, 6 ft. long, 18 in. wide, and 24 in. high,
without a back. One of the long pieces is fastened to the bottoms of the
buckets as shown, spacing the latter equally on the length of the piece.
This piece is then set in notches cut in the blocks of wood at an angle
of 45. These blocks are fastened to the upper crosspieces at the ends of
the frame. The upper part of the buckets rest on the upper front piece of
the frame.
[Illustration: The Player must Throw the Ball So That It will Enter and
Stay in One of the Buckets, Which Designates the Base Hits by the Number
in Its Bottom]
The rules for playing the game are as follows: Three baseballs are used.
The players stand about 10 ft. distant and in front of the buckets.
Each player, or side, is only permitted to throw three balls an inning,
irrespective of the number of runs scored. Any kind of delivery is
permitted, but an underhand throw will be found most successful. The
buckets are numbered from 1 to 4, and represent, respectively, one,
two, and three-base hits, and home runs. The one in which the ball stays
designates the run.
Plays are figured as in a regular ball game. For instance, if a ball
should stay in bucket No. 2 and the next in bucket No. 3, the first man
would be forced home, counting one run, and leaving one man on third base.
If the next ball stays in bucket No. 4, the man on third base is forced
home, as well as the one who scored the home run, making three runs for
that inning. The runs should be scored as made, to guard against confusion
and argument.--Contributed by Walter Talley, Pottsville, Pa.
A Staple Puller
[Illustration]
With nothing but ordinary tools the removing of staples is tedious and
difficult work. If a suitable-sized wire nail is bent like a fishhook
and the hook part driven under the staple, the latter can be easily
pulled out by grasping and pulling the nail with a hammer in the usual
way.--Contributed by R. Neland, Minneapolis, Minn.
A Dissolving Coin Trick
This is a very simple and effective trick. The articles required to
perform the trick are, a glass of water, a silver dollar, a handkerchief
and a watch crystal, or round piece of glass, the size of a silver dollar.
Conceal the crystal in the palm of the hand and show the audience the
dollar. Hold the handkerchief in one hand and place the hand holding the
silver dollar and crystal under it so that the crystal can be grasped by
the hand holding the handkerchief. Remove the dollar by holding it in the
palm of the hand and slip it, unobserved, into a pocket.
Ask some one in the audience to hold the handkerchief with the inclosed
crystal and ask him to let it drop into the glass of water as the
handkerchief covers both. The falling glass can be heard, but upon
removing the handkerchief nothing can be seen of the dollar or watch
crystal. The circular glass disk cannot be seen in the water.--Contributed
by Albert Biery, Spokane, Wash.
A Fruit-Jar Opener
The accompanying sketch shows a handy device for turning up and unscrewing
the covers on glass fruit jars. The loop is slipped over the cover and
the handle turned in the direction of the arrow. To unscrew the cover,
the tool is turned over and the handle turned in the opposite direction.
[Illustration: The Loop in the Leather Grips the Cap Tightly When the
Handle is Turned as the Arrow Indicates]
The loop should be just large enough to slip over the cover easily. It is
made of leather and fastened to the wood handle with screws.--Contributed
by J. B. Downer, Seattle, Wash.
Anti-Tangle Safety Pin
A small disk of rubber or leather, placed on a safety pin as shown in
Fig. 1, will prevent the fabric which is fastened by the pin from becoming
tangled in the spring loop. The manner of using the pin is shown in Fig.
2.
[Illustration: The Small Disk on the Pin Prevents the Goods from Becoming
Tangled in the Coil]
How to Nickel or Silverplate Iron by Friction
The following methods of plating iron with nickel and silver appeared in
a recent issue of a German paper. In nickelplating iron, a thin coating
of copper is first produced on it by rubbing on a solution of 20 parts
sulphate of copper, 5 parts sulphuric acid and 100 parts of water. After
the copper plate has been formed rub over it, with a rag, a solution of
3 parts tin, 6 parts nickel and 1 part iron in 100 parts of hydrochloric
acid and 3 parts of sulphuric acid. If finally the object is rubbed with
a rag that has been dipped in finely pulverized zinc, a nickel deposit
will be formed on the copper. The thickness of the deposit of nickel can
be increased by repeating the two last operations.
According to a recent patent, a silver coating can be produced by
dissolving freshly precipitated chloride of silver in a solution of
hyposulphite of soda, 1.1 parts to 10 parts of water, and adding to this
solution 180 parts spirits of sal ammoniac and then stirring in 800 parts
of finely washed chalk. This mixture is applied and rubbed until it dries
on the object being silvered, and the result is a brilliant deposit of
pure silver.
* * * * *
A good filling for cracks in old furniture is made of
shellac, either melted by heat or dissolved in alcohol
to make a thick paste.
A Homemade Cradle
The cradle shown in the sketch can be made quickly and easily at home and
will be found far more serviceable than, and possessing several advantages
over, the ones purchased. It is made of a clothes basket, an iron rod and
two ordinary chairs. It can be taken down and the parts used for other
purposes. The upper portion of the rod prevents the chairs from slipping.
A light cloth can be placed over the rod, in tent fashion, to keep flies
out, while at the same time permitting air for ventilation.--Contributed
by Bert Verne, San Diego, Cal.
[Illustration: A Clothes Basket Supported with a Rod between Two Chairs
Makes a Good Cradle]
A Removable Post
[Illustration]
It is often desirable to have football and baseball grounds in public
parks roped in during the game, but after the game the ropes and stakes
must be removed. To drive in iron stakes and then remove them is hard
work and requires considerable time. The sketch shows a much better way. A
piece of 2-in. pipe, about 18 in. long, is sunk level with the ground in
the right location for a post. The post is made of 1-1/2-in. pipe of the
length desired. This will just fit inside of the 2-in. pipe. A wood plug
is fitted in the upper end of the pipe in the ground to keep out dirt when
the post is removed.--Contributed by Abner B. Shaw, N. Dartmouth, Mass.
String-and-Ball Trick
[Illustration]
The stopping of a ball on a string at any desired point is understood
by almost every person, but to make one that can be worked only when the
operator so desires is a mysterious trick. Procure a wooden ball, about
2 in. in diameter, and cut it into two equal parts. Insert a small peg
in the flat surface of one half, a little to one side of the center, as
shown, and allow the end to project about 3/16 in. The flat surface of the
other half is cut out concave, as shown, to make it 1/2 in. deep. The two
halves are then glued together, and a hole is drilled centrally on the
division line for a string to pass through.
To do the trick, hold an end of the string in each hand tightly and draw
it taut with the ball at the top, then slacken the string enough to allow
the ball to slide down the string. To stop the ball at any point, pull
the string taut.
Before handing the ball and string out for inspection, push the string
from each side of the ball and turn it slightly to throw it off the
peg. This will allow the string to pass freely through the ball,
and it cannot be stopped at will. To replace the string reverse the
operation.--Contributed by Wm. O. Swett, Chicago.
Wall-Paper Cleaner
The following mixture I have used with the best results for years.
Thoroughly mix together 3 pt. of wheat flour and 1 pt. of powdered
whiting, then add sufficient water to make a dough. To clean a dirty
papered wall, take a piece of the dough that can be easily grasped in
the hand, press it against the surface and make a long stroke downward.
During the process of cleaning, keep kneading the dirt into the dough. The
preparation can be mixed in any amount desired by using the proportions
named.--Contributed by C. W. Bause, Jr., E. Troy, Wis.
Revolving Shaft without Power
The device illustrated seems paradoxical for it apparently works without
any power being applied to it, making from two to three revolutions per
hour, which, though slow, is nevertheless motion, requiring energy.
[Illustration: The Expansion and Contraction of the Ropes Keep the Disk
Up and to One Side of the Center]
The shaft A is supported on the edges, in the bearings B and C, of a
tank, D. A disk, E, having a central hole larger in diameter than the
shaft, is located at the middle of the latter. The disk is supported by
12 or more cotton ropes, F. The tank is filled to the level G with water.
The lower ropes, being immersed in the water, shrink and lift the disk
slightly above the center in the position of an eccentric, as shown by
the dotted lines in the sketch. The center of gravity of the disk in this
position, being higher and slightly to one side of the shaft, the disk
has a tendency to turn around. The motion drives the next rope into the
water where it becomes soaked and shrinkage takes place again, lifting
the disk to a higher position, while the rope coming out of the water
dries out. The ropes emerging from the water but not yet thoroughly dry
cause the upper part of the disk to be in an eccentric position laterally
with reference to the center of the shaft, thus causing the center of
gravity to be not only above but also slightly to one side.--Contributed
by Charles Roberts, Brooklyn, N. Y.
A Paper-Bag Holder
[Illustration]
A holder, to accommodate the different-sized bags used in a store, can
be easily made of a board, 6 in. wide and 30 in. long. One edge of the
board is cut with notches similar to the teeth of a ripsaw and their
back-sloping edges are drilled to admit a nail point. A sufficient
quantity of bags is placed in a pile and a nail is driven through the edge
near their upper ends, and the projecting point of the nail is stuck into
one of the holes. Proceed in the same manner with bags of other sizes. To
remove a bag, take hold of the lower end of the outermost one and tear it
from the nail. Be sure to drive the nails through the bags close to the
top.--Contributed by Abner B. Shaw, N. Dartmouth, Mass.
Covering for Chalk Trays
The chalk trays fitted at the lower edge of blackboards soon collect
considerable chalk dust and the chalk sticks dropped into it are,
therefore, disagreeable to handle. A simple way of keeping the sticks
clean is to cover the trays with wire mesh which is shaped like a tray
but not so deep as the chalk tray. Thus the chalk dust will fall through
this screen and be out of the way of the sticks.
A Curtain Hanger
A close-coiled spring, about 1/4 in. in diameter, makes a much better
hanger for a short curtain than a small rod. The spring should be about
1 in. shorter than the width of the window and fastened with screwhooks.
The spring is preferable not only because it is less apt to tear the
fabric, as it will give some if the curtain is pulled, but also for
the reason that it is much easier to put it through the hem than the
rod.--Contributed by Walter Ramm, New York City.
[Illustration]
Joints for Model Aeroplane
In constructing model or toy aeroplanes the strips used are so slender
that it is difficult to join them at the ends with brads without splitting
them. If glue is used, there is danger of breaking two or more ribs,
should it be necessary to remove a broken or defective rib.
[Illustration: Cartridge Shells Used for Joints (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3,
Fig. 4)]
An empty 22-gauge long cartridge can be formed into an elbow that will
connect the framework accurately, give more strength than glue or brads,
and allow a broken section to be removed without spoiling the other part
of the framework. File off the end A, Fig. 1, so that the shell will
form a straight tube, and file as shown in Fig. 2 with a three-cornered
file. Then bend the two sections into the form shown in Fig. 3 and solder
the adjacent edges. File off the rough spots and drill small holes, as
shown, for the insertion of pins to hold the wood strips. Much time in
the building of model aeroplanes can be saved by keeping a supply of these
elbows on hand.
* * * * *
A deep rust on tools may be removed by soaking them
in a strong, hot bath of potash and water for a half
hour, then dipping them into a solution of 1 part
muriatic acid in 2 parts cold water.
An Indoor Baseball Game
An indoor game of baseball may be played on a board 5 ft. long and 3 ft.
wide. A diamond is laid off at one end of the board and pins representing
the hits are attached to the board so they will project above the surface.
The locations of the players are designated by holes bored part way in the
wood with an expansive bit. These holes should be large enough to receive
the rings easily. The rings may be gaskets or they may be made of rope,
and should have an inside diameter of about 3 in.
[Illustration: Baseball Diamond on a Board]
Only two persons can play at this game. The distance from the board to
the thrower may be from 10 to 100 ft., according to the size of the room.
This distance should be marked and each thrower stand at the same place.
If the ring is thrown over one of the "base-hit" or "two-bagger" pegs,
it shows the number of bases secured. Throwing a ring over one of the
"home-run" pegs means a score, of course. The "infield hit" secures
a base. If the ring slips into a hole, that counts one out. A player
must throw until he has three outs. The score is kept for the runs
made.--Contributed by Francis P. Hobart, Willoughby, O.
A Lantern for the Camp
[Illustration]
A very desirable lantern for camp use is one that utilizes a candle
instead of a lamp. Such a lantern can be made of an ordinary oil-lantern
globe, a block of wood, some galvanized wire, a few nails, a metal collar,
and a hood of zinc or tin. The block of wood is cut octagonally and the
metal collar is fastened to it as shown. Four headless nails are driven
into the center of the block, spaced so as to hold an ordinary candle
securely. The wire is formed into a U-shape and the ends fastened into the
block of wood outside of the candle socket, and within the globe circle.
A conical piece of tin or zinc is formed to fit over the top of the globe
as shown. As the candle does not require much draft there is no opening
provided.--Contributed by Addison W. Baird, M. D., New York City.
Electric Lights Controlled from Two or More Switches
Many times it is quite an advantage to have a lamp or group of lamps
so connected that the current may be turned on or off by any one of a
number of different switches. For example, the lights in a long hall or
passage-way can be lighted or extinguished by operating a switch at either
end of the hall; the lights in the upper and lower halls of a residence,
turned on or off by operating a switch upstairs or downstairs as the case
might demand; the lights in the garage, controlled by switches at both
the inside and outside door, etc.
[Illustration: Lamps Controlled from Two Switches (Fig. 1)]
The method of connecting a number of lamps to a circuit so that they
can be controlled from either of two switches is shown in Fig. 1. The
switches, as illustrated in this drawing, are in such a position that the
lamps will burn. If either of the switches be thrown to its other position
(there are two positions for each switch), the circuit will be opened.
The operation then of either switch will again close the circuit.
[Illustration: Lamps Controlled by Any Number of Switches (Fig. 2)]
The method of connecting a number of lamps to a circuit so that they can
be controlled by any number of switches is shown in Fig. 2. The switches
are all in such a position that the lamps will burn. If any one of the
switches be turned to its second position (all the switches have two
positions), the circuit will be open. The dotted lines at switch C show
the connections through switch C after it has been operated. Operating
switch D then will again close the circuit, by using the dotted lines
in switches C and D. The wiring for the control of lamps, as just
indicated, must comply with the underwriters' requirements, and also city
requirements, if the work be done in a place having city regulations for
electric wiring.
* * * * *
Wire netting may be cut by laying it on the side edge
of a spade and striking it with a hammer.
[Illustration]
Electric Score Board for Indoor Games
A very satisfactory electric score board, for use in scoring basketball
and other games played indoors, is shown in the illustration. It is
constructed entirely of wood, but should be lined with asbestos board
or sheathing. The dimensions are a matter of choice, but one 4 ft. long,
2 ft. wide and 18 in. deep is a good size. The back of the box is provided
with two cleats, each 2-1/2 ft. long, fastened at each end. This allows a
projection of 3 in. at the top and bottom, for fastening the score board
to the wall. The manner of construction is shown in Fig. 1, and a cross
section of the box, in Fig. 2.
[Illustration: Electric Indoor Score Board, Showing Its Construction and
Manner of Cutting Out the Letters and Numbers (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3,
Fig. 4, Fig. 5, Fig. 6, Fig. 7)]
The front of the box should be fastened with screws so as to make its
removal easy in case of repairs. This part of the box carries the frame
for inserting the numbers and the words "Home Team" and "Visitors," as
shown in Fig. 3. As the words are a permanent fixture, the cards carrying
them are fastened to the front. At the end of these words a frame is
constructed as shown in Fig. 4, in which the cards having the numbers are
inserted in slides.
Numerals and letters can be cut out of heavy cardboard or tin. The design
of a letter having sharp angles and straight edges, as shown in Fig. 5,
is very easily cut out with a chisel. The method of cutting is shown in
Fig. 6.
As portions of the letters and numerals, such as the center in an O, would
fall out if cut entirely around, some way must be provided to hold the
parts in place. The way to prepare stencils is to leave a portion uncut,
which is known as a tie, and the letter will appear as shown in Fig. 7.
The best method for making these letters and figures is to cut out the
letter entirely, then to paste thin paper over the back and replace the
parts removed by the cutting in their original position.--Contributed by
James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
A Mission Frame for an Alarm Clock
The old nickelplated alarm clock which usually adorns the kitchen mantel
is, to say the least, not ornamental, and I improved the appearance of
mine without lessening its usefulness by making a small case in mission
style for it.
[Illustration: An Alarm Clock with a Wood Covering Ornamented and Finished
in Mission Style]
The sketch shows a design which is neat and easily made. Accurate
dimensions cannot be given as these will vary with the size of the clock.
Quarter-sawed oak, 1/4 in. thick, is the best material to use. The front
and back can be cut on a jigsaw, the opening for the clock face being cut
slightly smaller than the metal of the clock so that only the face shows.
An opening in the back piece should be cut a little smaller than the one
in front, to provide a free opening for winding the clock. Fasten the
parts together with small round-head brass brads or screws and finish to
match the furniture. A small desk clock can be made in a similar manner,
using a cheap watch instead of the alarm clock.--Contributed by C. E.
Hamann, Somerville, Mass.
Mixing Sulphuric Acid
One of the first lessons given a student in chemistry is how to mix
sulphuric acid with water. This would naturally be supposed to be very
easy, yet, if it is not done right, it will surely result in injury to
the person doing the mixing.
The specific gravity of sulphuric acid is 1.849 and, on account of its
chemical attraction to water, great heat is set up or generated when the
two are being mixed. If the acid is put into a jar and the water poured
onto it, they will be temporarily separated, as the heavy acid will remain
at the bottom, the chemical reaction taking place on the dividing line
only. This soon generates heat which rapidly increases until steam is
formed. Then the water boils over and finally becomes a bubbling volcano
which readily ejects the contents of the jar. As the mixture at this
moment is very hot, bad burns will be the result, which are aggravated by
the biting of the acid; and clothing or anything that it comes in contact
with will be ruined or badly damaged. Always remember this caution: add
the acid to the water.
The following is the proper way to proceed in mixing sulphuric acid as
well as other acids of lighter weight. Place the water in a jar and pour
the acid in, a little at a time, stirring the mixture with a wooden stick.
The mixing process will always heat the solution, which in many instances,
must be allowed to cool before using.
A Chinese Pagoda
Fold the end of a long and narrow strip of paper over several times as
shown in Fig. 1 and roll the entire length over a stick, then remove the
roll and crease, or make it flat, as shown in Fig. 2. Make two cuts with
a sharp knife centrally so that they reach to the several folds first made
on the inner end of the paper, then cut the fold in the paper between the
cuts as shown in Fig. 3, and bend the ends over to form the shape in Fig.
4. Insert the knife blade under the first fold and draw it out until the
paper takes the form in Fig. 5.
[Illustration: Stages in Making the Strip of Paper into the Finished
Pagoda (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4, Fig. 5)]
These pagodas can be made large or small, as desired, and also varied in
several ways. Large ones can be formed and used as small tree ornaments.
All that is necessary to make them high is to roll up one strip of paper
on another in the rolling process.
In rolling up several strips, one on top of the other successively,
various colored papers may be used and the appearance is greatly
enhanced.--Contributed by Chas. C. Bradley, W. Toledo, O.
A Cuspidor Carrier
[Illustration]
The task of handling cuspidors under all conditions is anything but
pleasant, but the carrier shown in the sketch makes quite an improvement
over ordinary methods. The carrier consists of an iron rod, 1/4 in. in
diameter and 3 ft. long. One end is bent to fit around the neck of the
cuspidor and the other is shaped into a handle.
Guide for Grinding a Plane Iron
When a plane iron has been sharpened a number of times, it often becomes
so out of square that the edge cannot be made parallel with the bottom of
the plane block, even by using the lateral adjustment. Where this happens,
the plane iron must be reground. If an emery wheel mounted in a polishing
head or lathe is at hand, this can be easily accomplished. Loosen the
plane-iron cap and screw it down at right angles to the plane iron, also
reverse the tool rest as shown in the sketch. In this way the work can be
done better and more quickly than by the usual method.--Contributed by L.
S. Uphoff, Schenectady, N. Y.
[Illustration: The Plane-Iron Cap Turned at Right Angles, Provides a Guide
to Grind the Edge Straight]
To Prevent Torch Lights from Smoking
In the shop or factory oil torches are sometimes used and much trouble is
experienced by the excessive smoking of the flame. This occurs because
too much carbon remains unburned, and can be remedied by first soaking
the wick in a weak solution of acetic acid. A 5-per-cent solution can be
purchased for a few cents at any drug store and will soak a great number
of wicks. The acid is not poisonous unless taken internally.
A Lard and Fruit Presser
A very simple but handy device for pressing out lard, juices for jelly, or
fruit for marmalade, is made from two boards, each 18 in. long, 3 in. wide
and 1/2 in. thick, formed into the shape of paddles and hinged together.
The hinge is made by running a wire through holes bored in one end of the
paddles and twisting the ends together as shown. This presser will save
the hands from stains and other effects of the juices.--Contributed by
Julia A. White, Glenburg, Pa.
[Illustration: Two Paddles Hinged Together with a Piece of Wire Make a
Presser for Lard and Fruits]
An Electric-Light Bulb as Barometer
To use a discarded electric bulb as a fairly reliable barometer the point
is broken off with a pair of pliers while holding the bulb under water.
As the bulb is a vacuum, it completely fills with water. If the bulb is
now suspended from a wire or thread fastened at the socket end, the water
will not run out of it in fair weather when the atmospheric pressure is
normal or high, but if the pressure falls, as happens when bad weather
is approaching, the water will begin to bulge out of the small opening
and sometimes a small drop may even fall off. When, with returning fair
weather, the atmospheric pressure increases, the water can no longer bulge
or drop out of the bulb.
A Swinging-Pendulum Trick
To swing a pendulum, picked out from a number of them at random, without
touching it is a very puzzling trick. The articles necessary are a
medium-sized table and a number of pendulums, some of which are suspended
from a rod with their lower weighted ends inside of water and wine glasses
placed on the table, and others attached to corks so that they will hang
inside of bottles.
The spectators gather around the table which can be in full light. The
performer sits at one side of the table with his hands flat on the top.
A person may pick out any pendulum and ask him to swing it, which he will
proceed to do without touching it, also making it strike the glass while
it swings. Another pendulum may be pointed out and he will start that one
apparently by looking at it, while the other one stops.
[Illustration: Any One Pendulum can be Made to Swing at Will by Moving
the Table Slightly]
This may seem to be impossible, yet it is very easy. It will be seen
that no two pendulums have the same length. A pendulum makes a certain
number of swings in a given time, depending on its length. A long pendulum
requires more time to complete its swing and will, therefore, make a less
number of swings than a short one in the same time. It is only necessary
to move the table slightly and watch the pendulum picked out until it
begins to swing independently of the others, which soon happens. To
make the longer pendulums swing, longer movements of the table top must
be made. With a little practice anyone can become a skilled medium in
pendulum swinging.--Contributed by James A. Hart, Philadelphia, Pa.
Applying a Strap Hinge
An ordinary strap hinge can be applied to a door or box cover in such a
way that only one wing will show. Ordinarily the hinge opens as at A, and,
on reversing it, the hinge will open to the limit as shown at B. If one
wing is bent toward the other, as shown at C, the hinge may be applied,
as shown at D. As this process reverses the hinge, the screw holes must
be countersunk on the opposite side.
[Illustration: Reversing a Strap Hinge So That When It is Applied Only
One Wing will Show]
Tricks Performed with Thumbs Tied Together
To have one's thumbs securely tied together by any person in an audience
and examined by the spectators, then have some one throw a hoop or bicycle
rim on one of the performer's arms as if the thumbs were not tied, seems
impossible, yet this trick can be done, and its simplicity is its own
protection, even though performed close to a committee selected from the
audience. A stick can be held perpendicularly by anyone with one hand at
each end and the performer can thrust his arms at the stick which passes
between them with the thumbs apparently tied tightly together. The same
effect is produced on the arm of any person, while the hands are tightly
clasped, and before and after each movement the tied thumbs are examined
by the committee.
The two cords used for the trick are made as follows: The first should
be about 17 in. long, 1/4 in. in diameter at its center and tapering
to points at the ends. The other cord is about 13 in. long, 1/8 in. in
diameter in the center and also tapering at the ends. They are constructed
of Chinese or Japanese paper, which is a soft, but very tough, fibrous
texture. Cut the paper into strips, 1 in. wide, taking care that the
grain, or rather the fiber, runs lengthwise. Beginning at one end, twist
the paper on itself at an angle as in rolling the old-fashioned paper
lamp lighter. Each turn should lap over the former about half of its
width. When within 3 in. of the end of the first strip apply another by
moistening the joining ends and continue the twisting. When the length
given is reached, break off the strip and start back over the first in the
opposite direction. Lay on enough layers to secure the diameter given.
When finished, the cords should be strong enough to resist the pressure
applied by the hands.
[Illustration: Manner of Crossing the Thumbs to Receive the Double Tie of
the Cord]
With all fingers pressed together spread both thumbs away from the hands,
as shown at A. Lay the right thumb across the left, as at B, the large
knuckle bone of one lying directly over that of the other. The largest
cord is laid over the crossing and both ends brought down, crossed under
the thumbs, then up again, and tied in two knots on top of the right
thumb, as at C. The trick in the tying is at this point. Just as the tie
is being made pull the left thumb until the smallest-diameter joints reach
the cord and pull down with the left hand. Push the right thumb so that
the fleshy part enters as far as possible into the cords. Insist on the
tie being made tightly.
[Illustration: The Cords as They are Placed around the Thumbs and Tied in
a Double Knot]
The second and smaller cord is laid below the right thumb as shown at D,
and on top of the left against the first cord, crossed, brought back and
tied twice. When this is being done reverse the pushing and pulling as
described, pushing the left thumb and pulling out on the right. Secure all
the slack on the left thumb, the right being pushed into the cords at its
smallest diameter and the second cord being tied high up and as near the
right thumb as possible, with knots tightly drawn. If this second knot is
not tight it will give trouble in performing the trick.
The release is made by bringing the tips of the fingers together and
placing the thumbs into the palms. If the ties have been carefully made
there will be no trouble to withdraw the left thumb as it is masked by
the hands. The peculiar nature of the paper cord causes the loop from
which the thumb was removed to remain open and rigid as a wire loop, and
if the last tie was tightly drawn, the second cord will not slip down to
close the loop. In approaching the hoop, stick, or arm, touch the thing
to be passed with the finger tips and withdraw them, swaying backward a
few times and, in the last swing before making the pass, remove the thumb
from the loop. After passing, replace the thumb in the loop. In passing
the object, open the finger tips, then close them and open the palms, and
push the left thumb back into the loop, close the palms and apply a strain
on both thumbs, then show the tie. Be careful to press both thumbs closely
into the palms in passing so that they will not strike the object.
Always exhibit the tie from the back of the hands with the palms spread
out. If there is any difficulty in drawing out or replacing the thumb in
the loop, it is because the ties have not been properly made or tied when
the thumbs were in the right place. It requires some practice to do the
trick quickly.--Fayette.
A Way to Keep Home Accounts
An easy way to keep track of all the home expenses is by the popular card
system. The index cards can be had at any stationery-supply house. Place
the cards in a box on end and have a good supply of blanks back of them
ready for use. Under, or back of, each letter place as many blanks as is
necessary, and almost instantly any item of expense in the home may be
found, such as the cost of coal for the year, drugs, meat, the cost of
clothing for a child, and the account of the head of the family. The boy's
account might read as follows under the letter J:
Johnnie
Jan. 3 Shoes $3.50
Jan. 15 Book .45
Jan. 29 Hair cut .25
Feb. 1 Stockings .75
and so on through the year. The mother can see at a glance just when the
last shoes were bought, and how much it cost for books and paper.
Everything pertaining to the home keeping can be so recorded and each
year compared. Once given a trial no other bookkeeping will be required
in the home where time counts. Children can be taught to keep account of
their expenses in this way, and thus thrift and good business methods are
encouraged.--Contributed by Harriette I. Lockwood, Philadelphia, Pa.
How to Make a Blowgun
Either a 12-in. length of a small curtain-rod tubing or a straight piece
of small bamboo pole, cut off between the joints, can be used for the gun
part of this simple device. If bamboo is used, see that it is cleaned out
smoothly on the inside.
The dart used in the gun is shown at A in the illustration. It is made
by threading the eye of a darning needle full of yarn, clipping all the
strands off to a uniform length of about 3/4 in., and then picking out
the fibers into a brushlike mass above the needle's eye. Another needle
or pin can be used for fuzzing the threads. The point to observe is that
the brush is of somewhat larger diameter than the bore of the gun, so that
when the needle is pushed into the mouth end the brush will be compressed
and make an air-tight plug.
[Illustration: The Blowgun is Made of a Piece of Tubing, and the Dart of
a Darning Needle]
After thus inserting the dart, hold it as shown and give a quick, sharp
blast of the breath into the gun. The dart will travel with great speed
and accuracy for 20 ft. or more, and stick wherever it strikes. The point
being so small, it can be used in the house for shooting at a paper target
pinned to the wall without injury to the plaster or woodwork.--Contributed
by C. C. Fraser, Saginaw, Mich.
A Brush for Applying Soldering Acid
A good brush for applying acid to articles for soldering can be made of
a piece of small copper pipe for the handle, and fine copper wire for the
brush. To make the brush part, take a piece of cardboard, about 1-1/4 in.
wide, and wind several turns of No. 28 gauge copper wire around it, then
remove the coil, insert about 1/2 in. of it in the pipe, and flatten the
latter to hold the wire. Clip the ends of the wire, and a brush will be
had that ordinary acids will not affect. If only a short piece of pipe
is available, it can be used as a ferrule and a handle made of wire or
wood.--Contributed by A. R. Cunning, W. New Brighton, N. Y.
Inkwell and Penholder
[Illustration]
An empty paste pot with a water well in the center makes an excellent
inkwell and penholder. Fill the exterior well A with cement or plaster of
paris, push the number of penholders to be held into the cement before it
sets, moving them about occasionally to prevent the cement from sticking
to them and to make the hole a little larger than the holder. The part B
is for the ink.--Contributed by R. F. Pinkney, Lazareto del Mariel, Cuba.
A Homemade Loose-Leaf Pocket Memorandum
The little memorandum illustrated herewith is very handy to carry in the
coat or vest pocket for taking notes, etc. Loose leaves may be supplied
with very little trouble. It consists of a fold of paper, cut as shown and
pasted at the ends. The pocket thus formed will easily hold 2 doz. sheets
and the slits cut on the outside will admit 8 sheets.--Contributed by C.
B. Hanson, Fitchburg, Mass.
[Illustration: The Holder is Made of Heavy Manila Paper and will Stand
Considerable Wear]
* * * * *
An ideal cleaner for kid gloves is carbon
tetrachloride.
Rubber-Band-Change Trick
The trick of changing a rubber band from the first and second fingers to
the third and fourth, if done quickly, can be performed without detection
by any one. The band on the first two fingers is shown to the spectator
as in Fig. 1, with the back of the hand up. The hand is then turned over
and the band drawn out quickly, as shown in Fig. 2, in a manner as to
give the impression that the band is whole and on the two fingers. While
doing this, quickly fold all the fingers so that their ends enter the
band, and turn the hand over and let go the band, then show the back with
the fingers doubled up. In reality the fingers will be in the band, as in
Fig. 3, and the back will still show the band on the first two fingers.
Quickly straighten out all the fingers, and the band will snap over the
last two fingers, as shown in Fig. 4.--Contributed by E. K. Marshall, Oak
Park, Ill.
[Illustration: Transferring Rubber Band from the First Two Fingers to the
Last Pair, Like Magic (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4)]
A Swinging Electric-Light Bracket
The light bracket shown is both ornamental and useful and can be swung
from one side of the room to the other in an instant, a feature that is
of great value in a dimly lighted kitchen. It can be made of either brass
or soft iron, but, for the sake of convenience, the description will be
for one made of brass.
Procure four pieces of brass, 1 in wide, 1/8 in. thick and 7 in. long, and
bend them to the shape shown at A. These are to form the ceiling bracket.
A 3/16-in. hole is drilled in the end of each piece to be against the
ceiling. The other end is bent slightly concave and soldered to a brass
collar, B, which is threaded on the inside. This collar must be of such
a size that it will screw on the end of a brass pipe, C, 1 in. in outside
diameter. The length of this pipe should be 18 or 20 inches.
The base D of the bracket is made of a brass bar, 1/8 in. thick, 1/2 in.
wide and 45 in. long, a scroll being turned on 6 in. of its length at
the globe end, and 3 in. of the other end turned up at right angles and
soldered to a ring made of 1/16-in. brass that acts as a bearing around
the pipe.
[Illustration: A Bracket Forming a Pendant and Swinging Arm to Change the
Location of the Electric Light]
The upper brace E is made of 1/16-in. brass, the same width as the base
piece and about 48 in. in length. Each end is turned into a scroll and
then riveted or soldered to the base D and to the upper brass ring. The
space between the base D, the brace E, and the pipe C is filled with any
style of scroll or other brace that may suit the taste of the maker, but
the base D must be at right angles to the pipe C before the scroll is
fastened in place.
A cap, F, is screwed to the lower end of the pipe, to keep the bracket in
place. Ordinary flexible light cord is used to connect to the light which
is swung to the scroll end of the base.--Contributed by F. L. Matter,
Portland, Oregon.
Match Safe to Deliver One Match at a Time
A match safe that will deliver only one match at a time is constructed
of two parts, the box or holder and the base, with slider. The box is
diamond-shaped and of the size shown by the dimensions. The base, with
slider, consists of two pieces, the baseboard and a standard which
runs through the box diagonally on the longest dimension in a vertical
position. A thumbtack is inserted in the standard near the top to prevent
the box from being lifted entirely from the base.
[Illustration: The Box Delivers Only One Match When It is Raised and
Lowered on the Standard]
The matches are filled into the box on both sides of the standard. When
a match is wanted, lift the box up and let it down again, and one match
will be caught in the notch and raised out of the box. To prevent the box
from tipping sideways when it is raised up, small pieces can be glued to
the box ends on the inside and on both sides of the standard.--Contributed
by A. S. Barrows, New Britain, Conn.
Cartridge Shells Used for Electrical Contacts
In making small switchboards, rheostats, and other electrical devices,
I found a good use for old center-fire cartridge shells as shown in the
sketch. A hole a little smaller than the diameter of the shell is made in
the board and the shell is forced in. The proper wires are then soldered
to the metal on the inside, or the wire may be placed inside of the shell
and held in contact by driving a wood plug in as indicated.--Contributed
by W. O. Nettleton, Washington, D. C.
[Illustration: The Heads of the Cartridge Shells Make Good Contacts for
a Switch Lever]
A Dowel-Turning Tool
The owner of a wood or metal lathe can easily construct a tool that
will turn dowels of any size quickly. This tool, as described by a
correspondent of Work, London, consists of a block of wood, shaped as
shown at A, and a plane bit, B, attached with a wood screw. The hole
in the collet C must be of such size that it will admit the rough stock
freely but also prevent it from wabbling as the stick turns. The stock is
chucked in the ordinary manner and the tool is run on the outer end.
[Illustration: The Tool is Very Similar to a Plane and is Used with a
Lathe for Turning Dowels]
To Tie a Hammock
[Illustration]
A method not generally known to quickly and securely hitch up a hammock
between two trees, in camp or elsewhere, is shown in the sketch. Each end
rope is given one or more turns around a tree trunk and then tucked under,
as shown. The pull on the rope will draw it tightly against the rough bark
on the tree. The harder the pull, the tighter the rope binds against the
tree trunk. In this manner a hammock can be put up in a few moments and
it is as readily taken down.--Contributed by Bert Morehouse, Des Moines,
Iowa.
An Inexpensive File
Envelopes make a very inexpensive as well as a neat file for papers and
letters if they are arranged and fastened together so that they can be
kept in one packet. In making such a file procure as many envelopes as
there will be headings in the file, also a number of strips of gummed
tape, about 1-1/2 in. long. There must be twice as many of these strips
as there are envelopes.
[Illustration: The File is Built Up of Envelopes Joined Together with
Small Strips of Tape]
Bind the backs of two envelopes, A and B, together leaving a space of
1/8 in. between the envelopes. Bind a third envelope, C, to B, and so on.
The strips of tape from A to B and from B to C are on opposite sides of
the envelope B. Continue binding until the required number of envelopes
have been joined together. Assign a heading to each of the envelopes, and
the file is ready for use. When completed it should appear as shown in
D.--Contributed by Alfred Rice, Syracuse, N. Y.
Window-Shade Guides
The annoyance of a shade that will not run true on the roller and flops
in the wind coming through an open window can be overcome by using guide
wires as follows:
[Illustration: Two Parallel Guide Wires Hold the Stick of the Shade in
Its Proper Place]
The stick in the hem on the lower edge of the shade is supplied with a
screweye, A, at each end. A wire is run through the screweye and fastened
in a vertical position on the casing with screweyes as shown by B, B.
A second wire is similarly attached on the other side of the shade,
taking care to have both wires parallel and true with the ends of the
roller.--Contributed by George Lue, San Francisco, California.
Watering Plants at the Roots
An effective way to water rose bushes, shrubs or plants is to place an
old cowhorn in the earth so that the small end will be near the roots of
the plant and the large end level with the surface of the ground, and fill
the horn with water. The small end of the horn should be cut off at such a
point that the hole will be about the size of a lead pencil.--Contributed
by Chas. L. Richards, Philadelphia, Pa.
How to Clean Jewelry
To cleanse articles of silver, gold, bronze and brass use a saturated
solution of cyanide of potassium. To clean small articles, dip each one
into the solution and rinse immediately in hot water; then dry and polish
with a linen cloth. Larger articles are cleaned by rubbing the surface
with a small tuft of cotton saturated in the solution. As cyanide of
potassium is a deadly poison, care must be taken not to have it touch any
sore spot on the flesh.--Contributed by G. A. Koerbis, U. S. S. "Vermont."
Runner for a Go-Cart
As the wheels of a go-cart do not push through the snow very easily and
the cart, therefore, does not run in a straight direction, and as I did
not care to purchase a sled, I instead fitted the go-cart wheels with
runners as shown in the sketch. I purchased a piece of machine steel of
a diameter to fit the grooves in the wheels after the rubber tires were
removed. This I cut and bent to the shape shown at A, making two runners,
and applied one to each pair of wheels, front and rear, as shown at B.
The runners kept the wheels immovable and caused the cart to glide over
the snow as a sleigh. This runner will not interfere with the folding of
a collapsible cart.--Contributed by Roy B. Hanaford, Detroit, Mich.
[Illustration: The Runners are Easily Applied to the Wheels of a Go-Cart
and Hold Them Solidly]
A Ring-Throwing Game
The board for this game is made of a cover from an old candy or lard pail,
washed and painted black. When the paint is dry, place 50 pegs on the
surface as shown and number them with white paint or by fastening numbers
cut from paper below them. The numbering of the pegs is not consecutive,
but low and high numbers distributed with the object in view of making it
difficult to secure a high score.
Each player has a set of five rings, which are nothing else but rubber
fruit-jar rings. These can be purchased at a grocery store. The board is
hung on a wall or post, and the player stands about 5 or 6 ft. away and
throws the rings, one at a time, trying to ring pegs having the highest
numbers. The sum of the numbers corresponding to the pegs ringed counts
toward the final score. Turns are taken by each player, and each time
five rings are thrown. The score can be set at any amount, 500 being about
right.--Contributed by Francis P. Hobart, Willoughby, O.
[Illustration: The Candy-Pail Cover with Pegs Numbered and a Set of Rings
for Each Player]
A Pen and Brush Holder
A sheet of corrugated paper is a handy thing to have on the writing desk,
for the purpose of placing wet pens or brushes in its grooves. The paper
absorbs the liquid, and the corrugations hold the pens or brushes in handy
positions. A sheet of this paper is almost as useful a desk accessory as
a blotter.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
[Illustration: The Depressions in the Paper Hold the Pens or Brushes and
Also Absorb the Excess Fluid]
Supporter for a Double Clothesline
[Illustration]
A double clothesline of any length should have a supporter in the center
to keep the line from sagging when the clothes are hung on the lower one.
The supporter shown in the sketch saves the wear from the strain on the
lines. It also keeps the clothes in a higher current of air so that they
dry quicker.
The supporter is made of two nickelplated rings measuring 2 in. in
diameter. They are bound together as shown. The rings being nickelplated,
the supporter will not rust the clothes. The clothes should be arranged on
the lower line so that the supporter will rest in the center.--Contributed
by Katharine D. Morse, Syracuse, New York.
Pincushion for the Arm
Those that have trouble in keeping the pincushion within reach while
sewing, can remedy the trouble by making one to fit the wrist or arm.
An ordinary pincushion is attached to a piece of cardboard and an
elastic sewed to the cardboard edges so that it will fit on the arm.
The pincushion is not in the way and is readily worn so that the pins
are easier to reach than if pinned to the dress.--Contributed by Frank
Sterrett, Portland, O.
Electric Test for Fixtures
A very useful device for testing out fixtures before they are connected
up can be easily made as follows: Two wires are run from a plug, A, one
to a socket, B, and the other to terminate at C. The line from the other
side of the socket B terminates at D.
In testing a fixture, the plug A is turned into a socket of some source of
current, and a lamp is turned into the socket B. The terminal C is held
to the metal covering of the fixture, while the end D is held to one of
the wires. If there is a leak of current, the lamp at B and those of the
fixture will light up.--Contributed by Fred Schumacher, Brooklyn, N. Y.
[Illustration: One Line of the Two Connecting Wires is Broken and the Ends
Used as Terminals on the Fixture]
Opening for Steam in a Utensil Cover
When cooking certain foods the ordinary cover on a vessel confines too
much steam, while if no cover at all is used, too much will escape,
hence a cover which is provided with a vent is very desirable. The cover
attachment shown in the illustration is evidently well adapted for service
on such occasions and can be easily made as follows:
[Illustration: The Small Triangular Surface Provided with Holes for
Releasing Surplus Steam is Covered with a Cap]
Lay out a small triangle on some level part of the cover and punch several
holes inside of the lines. Cut a cap, A, from a piece of tin to cover the
holes. A small projection on the edge of the cap serves to swing it one
way or the other, as needed, and it is fastened loosely to the cover with
a soft-copper rivet, so that it may be easily opened.
Drying Seeds
A good way to dry tomato, cantaloupe, and other seeds is to put them on
blotters. They will quickly dry in this manner and will not become moldy,
as the blotter soaks up the moisture.--Contributed by Theodore Becker,
Kansas City, Mo.
Cleaning Clothes by Boiling Them
When cleaning clothes by boiling them in a boiler over a fire, fit in
a false bottom to keep the clothes from touching the bottom. The false
bottom should be perforated with holes, 3/8-in. in diameter and 1 in.
apart, over the entire piece. Fasten four legs, each about 2 in. long, to
the under side to make a space between the bottoms. In washing, all that
is necessary is to place the clothes in the boiler and boil them. The dirt
will come loose and settle through the holes and on the boiler bottom.