[Illustration: Tools Cut from Pieces of Garden Hose for Making Grains of

Wood in Painted Surfaces]

To use this grainer, first paint the ground color, using a buff tint for

imitation light oak, and allow it to dry, then put on a light coat of raw

sienna, and while wet, take the prepared hose and draw it slowly over the

length of wood, at the same time revolving the grainer slowly.

The other piece of hose, at the other corner, is made to take the place

of a steel graining comb. The rubber is cut away lengthwise, leaving four

segments, about 4 in. wide, on four sides of the hose. These segments

are then notched out, like threads on a tap, each segment having a

different number to the inch. These are used in the same manner as steel

combs.--Contributed by A. H. Waychoff, Koenig, Colo.

Needle for Repairing Screens

In attaching patches to window or door screens, the work requires a

continual shifting from one side to the other, or two persons, one on

each side, must be present to pass the threaded needle back and forth. The

operation can be easily simplified by using a bent needle, which has been

heated and suitably shaped. The point of this needle can always be made

to return to the side from which it entered, thereby avoiding the need of

an assistant or the tiresome shifting back and forth.--Contributed by G.

Jaques, Chicago, Ill.

An Emergency Tourniquet

[Illustration]

A valuable addition to any shop medicine cabinet is the tourniquet. A

device that will answer the purpose of the tourniquet can be made from an

ordinary clothespin and a piece of binding tape, about 3/4 in. wide and

14 in. long. To stop the bleeding from a wound on a limb, pass the tape

around the injured member between the wound and the blood supply. Pass

the tape through the slot in the pin, wind the ends around the pin two

or three times to prevent slipping, then turn the pin to draw up the tape

tightly until the flow of blood is stopped.

Mechanical Aid to Singers

Procure a large cigar box, of the square variety, and three ordinary

drinking glasses with very thin walls and of different sizes, and place

them in the box, as follows: Space them evenly, and drive three brads

close to the circumference of each glass bottom, so that the glasses will

have to be forced in between them. To prevent the glasses from touching

the wood place a one-cent piece under each one.

A fourth glass is used, but from this the bottom must be removed. This

can be done by saturating a string, or piece of yarn, in kerosene oil,

wrapping it once around the glass near the bottom, then lighting it and

allowing the string to burn out. The glass is then quickly dropped into

cold water, which will remove the bottom.

A hole is cut in the cover of the box to receive the bottomless glass

from the upper side, so that its lower edge will be flush with the under

surface. Cut a slot, 3 in. long and 1/8 in. wide, in the cover near the

back side.

To use, close the cover and at a distance of about 1/2 in. from the glass

in the cover, or mouthpiece, sing into it. The glasses will impart to the

voice a peculiar tone delightful to hear.--Contributed by J. B. Murphy,

Plainfield, New Jersey.

Model Boat with Aerial Propeller

Procure or make a small model boat, 12 or 18 in. long, and place in the

hold one or two cells of dry battery. Make a small platform in the stern

and mount on it a small battery motor with the shaft parallel with the

length of the boat and in the center. Directly above and parallel with

the motor shaft run a shaft--a hatpin will do--in bearings fastened to

the deck. Attach a drive pulley directly over the pulley on the motor and

belt it up with a cord or rubber band. Purchase or make a propeller blade

and attach it to the rear end of the shaft. A switch can be located on the

deck for controlling the motor.--Contributed by Geo. B. Riker, Ft. Wayne,

Ind.

[Illustration: The Aerial Propeller is Driven by a Small Battery Motor

Placed in the Boat]

Lantern-Slide Binding Machine

The machine shown in the illustration is very simple to make and when

complete is one of the greatest time savers that a photographer can

possess. The base is made of a piece of board, 9 in. long, 2 in. wide,

and 7/8 in. thick. The uprights support a small bar upon which the roll

of binding revolves. An old ink bottle filled with water and with some

cotton stuffed in the neck serves as a moistener for the binding. The

use of this machine insures a neat job in a very short space of time. The

slide is always in the center of the binding. The end of the slide should

run a little over the end of the base so that the binding may be fixed

to the edge with the fingers, using a downward motion. The slide is then

turned over on the other edge with a rolling motion and the operation

repeated.--Contributed by Alvin G. Steier, Union Hill, N. Y.

[Illustration: A Machine That will Help to Bind Lantern Slides Quickly

and Neatly]

Adjustable Film-Developing Machine

The simple homemade developing machine, shown in the illustration, can be

easily made with three film spools, some strong wire, and odd pieces of

wood. It consists of an open frame, having two side pieces provided with

slots down the center, sufficiently wide to allow an ordinary wood screw,

of suitable size, to slide up or down freely. The two end-connecting

pieces act as supports for the developing tray and should be made of

sufficient length so the tray can pass freely between the sliding upright

frame, made to fit in between the side pieces of the base. This frame

can be adjusted to suit the length of film and is clamped in place at the

desired position by wood screws, fitting in the long notches and screwed

into the uprights. The two bottom rollers consist of film spools which are

fastened in place by being slipped over a suitable wire, bent so the spool

can enter the developing tray and the wire pass over the sides. Another

bend at the outer end provides for the adjustment of the spools and for

securing the wire in place by staples. The top spool is secured to a wire

fitted with a crank at the outer end, so that in turning the wire, the

spool will also turn, thereby driving the film. When placing the film on

the machine, the sensitive side should face outward so it will not rub

against the spools. The ends of the film may be connected with pins or

ordinary paper fasteners.--Contributed by H. R. F. Richardson, Ottawa,

Ont.

[Illustration: Developing a Roll Film in a Tray with a Machine That Drives

the Film around Rollers and through the Developing Liquid by Turning a

Crank]

Preventing Loss of Fish from Covered Baskets

In the cover of fish baskets an opening is frequently made permitting

the fish to be put in without lifting the cover. In traveling over

rough places, or when the basket is full, some of the fish are likely

to be shaken out, or may wiggle out of the basket. To guard against

this, a leather flap can be provided covering the hole on the inside.

At one end of the flap, four holes should be punched. It can then be

placed in position and securely laced to the cover. The flap acts as

a valve, allowing fish to be put into the basket, but preventing their

escape.--Contributed by A. W. Cook, Kamela, Ore.

Repair for a Broken Lock Keeper

[Illustration]

Having broken the recess half of a common cupboard lock, or latch, which

was used to fasten a hinged storm window, I used a round-head wood screw

as shown. The screw was easily placed, and it serves the purpose as well

as the regular keeper.--Contributed by R. F. Pohle, Lynn, Mass.

* * * * *

When using glue contained in screw-stoppered vessels

it is advisable to smear a little vaseline on the

thread to prevent the stopper from adhering to the

container.

[Illustration: Throwing a Spot Light with the Lantern on Individuals of a

Home Play, Which can be Given Brilliant Effects by the Use of the Tinted

Celluloid in the Openings of the Revolving Wheel]

Lantern for Spot and Colored Lights

The school play in pantomime is not complete unless the different parts of

the play are illuminated in different colors, especially if the performers

are clad in glittering garments. A spot light is also a feature not to

be forgotten in singling out the star player or the one singing a song.

The cost of a light for this purpose is entirely out of the reach of

the average schoolboy, but if he has any ingenuity and a little time, a

lantern for throwing those colored lights can be made at home, and the

necessary parts will not cost much.

[Illustration: Pattern for Cutting the Metal to Form the Entire Lantern,

or Lamp House, Also the Pattern for the Top and the Metal Bracket That

Makes a Bearing for the Revolving Wheel, Having Openings Covered with

Tinted Celluloid]

The metal necessary can be the ordinary stovepipe material, but if it is

desired to have a fine-appearing lantern, procure what is called Russian

iron. This metal has a gloss, and if used, it should be gone over from

time to time with a rag soaked in oil, then wiped dry, to keep it from

rusting. The pattern for the body of the lantern, or lamp house, is shown

with dimensions.

If metal, long enough for the whole length, cannot be procured, then make

it in two pieces, being sure to allow 1/2-in. end also on the second

part, as shown on the first, for a riveted joint. The metal is bent on the

dotted lines and cut out on the full ones. The distance between the lines

A to be bent is equal to the radius B. The part A forms the sloping side

of the top, and the 2-in. part at the top of the side extends vertically

on the upper or vertical part, it being 1/2 in. narrower to provide an

outlet for the heat.

An opening is cut in the rear end, as shown, also a hole, 5 in. in

diameter, in the front end. The size of the round hole is optional, as it

should be cut to suit the condensing lens provided. If a lens 5 1/2 in.

in diameter is used, then a 5-in. hole should be cut. This is enough

difference in size to hold the lens from dropping through, while clips

riveted on the inside of the lamp-house end will hold it in place. The

lens is set in the hole with the curved side outward from the inside of

the lamp house.

The top, or covering, is cut out of the same material as used in making

the lamp house, the length being 12 in., and the sides are cut to extend

1/2 in. on each side of the ventilator. The edges, being turned down on

the dotted lines, provide a covering to prevent any great amount of light

from passing out through the 1/2-in. ventilating opening mentioned in

connection with the side construction of the lantern. The 1-in. parts of

the cover ends are turned down and riveted to the ends of the lamp house.

The little extensions on the ends provide a means of riveting the side,

to make a solid joint.

The arm C is made of a piece of 1/8 or 3/16-in. metal, shaped as shown, to

fit on the corner of the lamp house, where it is riveted. This provides

a support and a place for an axis for the large revolving wheel holding

the colored-celluloid disks.

[Illustration: The Base of the Lantern is Provided with a Sliding Part

Carrying the Light for Adjustment]

The metal forming the lamp house is fastened on a baseboard, cut to

snugly fit on the inside. The base has two cleats, nailed lengthwise to

form a runway, 4 in. wide, into which another board is fitted to carry

the burner. While the illustration shows an acetylene burner, any kind of

light may be used so long as it is of a high candlepower. If manufactured

gas is at hand, a gas burner with a mantle can be fitted, or a large

tungsten electric light will give good results.

[Illustration: Pattern for the Revolving Wheel in Which Six Holes are Cut

and Covered with Tinted Celluloid]

The wheel, carrying the colored disks, is made of the same kind of metal

as used for the lamp house. The edges should be trimmed smooth, or, better

still, turned over and hammered down to prevent injury to the hands while

turning it. A washer should be used between this wheel and the arm C on a

bolt used for the shaft, to make the wheel turn freely. The colored disks

of celluloid are fastened to the outside of the wheel over the openings.

A yoke to support the lantern and provide a way for throwing the light in

any direction, is made as shown. A line along which the lantern balances

is determined by placing it on something round, as a broom stick, and the

upper ends of the yoke are fastened on this line with loosely fitted bolts

for pivots.

[Illustration: Yoke for Supporting the Lantern]

The lantern is set in front of the stage at the back of the room and the

light is directed on the players, the colors being changed by turning the

wheel. Sometimes good effects can be obtained by using the lantern in the

wings, or for a fire dance, by placing it under the stage, throwing the

light upward through grating or a heavy plate glass.

Homemade Palette Knife

A corset steel makes a good substitute for a palette knife because of its

flexibility. It gives better satisfaction if cut in the shape shown than

if left straight. Should a handle be desired, one can be easily made by

gluing two pieces of thin wood on the sides.--Contributed by James M.

Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

[Illustration: A Palette Knife Made of a Corset Steel and a Wood Handle

Attached]

* * * * *

To remove a white mark on wood having a wax surface,

rub it lightly with a rag moistened in alcohol; then

rub with a little raw linseed oil.

Self-Closing Gate

This gate is suspended from a horizontal bar by chains, and swings freely

about a 1-in. gas pipe, placed vertically in the center of the gate. The

chains are of the same length, being fastened equidistant from the pipe,

the upper ends farther out than the lower. The distance depends on the

weight of the gate and the desired force with which it should close. Any

of the numerous styles of latches can be used, if desired.--Contributed

by Kenneth Osborn, Loveland, Colo.

[Illustration: The Gate will Swing in Either Direction and Come to a Rest

Where It Closes the Opening]

A Poultry Shade

If a poultry yard is in an open space where the sun's rays will strike it

squarely, a shade can be put up as follows: A piece of old carpet, rug, or

canvas, fastened to the wire mesh with clothespins, will produce a shade

at any place desired.--Contributed by Walter L. Kaufmann, Santa Ana, Cal.

Reflector for Viewing Scenery from a Car Window

Construct a box of pasteboard or thin wood, about 9 in. long, 3 in. wide

and 2 in. thick, and fasten two pieces of mirror in the ends at an angle

of 45 deg., both sloping in the same direction with their reflecting

surfaces toward each other. An opening as large as the mirror is cut,

facing it, in the box at the end A, and a small hole bored through at

the end B so that it will center the mirror. Both of these apertures are

covered with plain pieces of glass.

[Illustration: The Reflecting Device as It is Used in a Car Window for

Viewing the Scenery Ahead]

In use, the end A is placed outside of the car window and the user places

an eye to the small hole B. It is impossible to be struck in the eye with

a cinder or flying object.--Contributed by Mildred E. Thomas, Gordon, Can.

A Muskrat Trap

It is difficult to catch muskrats in an ordinary steel trap, as a broken

bone allows them to sever the flesh and escape. During the summer these

rats build a shelter for the winter constructed of moss and sticks placed

on the river or lake bed, the top extending above the water level and

the entrance being through a hole in the bottom near one side, while the

passage itself is under water. It, therefore, only remains for the trapper

to make one of these houses over into a huge wire trap so that the animal

may be caught alive.

[Illustration: A Trap for Catching Muskrats Alive in One of Their Mounds

Built of Moss and Sticks]

The house A is prepared by removing the top and building the trap from

heavy mesh wire which can be easily shaped, the joints being held together

by binding the edges with wire. The passage is then fitted with a double

trapdoor, the first, B, provided with sharp points on the swinging end,

while the other is a falling cover. These two doors are placed in an

entrance way, C, made of wire mesh and fastened over the passageway.

The muskrat comes up through the passage, pushing a bunch of moss or

sticks and does not notice passing the trapdoors. The upper door is to

keep the animals caught from getting at the first door.--Contributed by

Vance Garrison, Bemidji, Minn.

A Casein Glue

Casein glues are splendid in woodworking, making cardboard articles, and

when the composition is varied somewhat, make excellent cements for china

and metals. Casein is made from the curd of soured milk after removal of

the fat, and is put on the market in the form of a dry powder.

To make the glue, soak the casein powder two hours in an equal weight

of hot water. To this gummy mass add about one-seventh the weight of the

casein in borax which has been dissolved in very little hot water. Stir

until all is dissolved after mixing borax and casein. This can be thinned

with water to suit and is a good glue, but it can be made more adhesive

by the addition of a little sodium arsenate. Any alkali, such as soda or

ammonia, could be substituted for the borax.

To make a china cement, lime or water glass should be substituted for the

borax. Addition of burnt magnesia increases the speed of hardening.

[Illustration]

The Mile-O-View Camera By T. B. Lambert

Many have tried, but heretofore no one has succeeded in taking panoramic

views from the side of fast-moving trains or street cars. Motion pictures

are easily obtained from the front or rear of moving trains, but none with

the camera lens pointing at right angles, or nearly so, to the track. A

complete apparatus for taking continuous and perfect panoramic pictures

of any desired length as one travels through a country is too complicated

to be described in detail within the limits of this article, but a simple

arrangement, invented and constructed by the writer, will enable anyone

to perform the experiment at practically no cost except for the film.

[Illustration: The Board Used Instead of a Tripod is Placed across the

Backs of Two Car Seats]

Some form of a roll-film camera is essential, and simply as a working

basis, it will be assumed an ordinary camera is used, post-card camera

in size, for which the following things will be required: A piece of thin

black card, or hard rubber; a small board, and a piece of wire to be used

as a crank.

[Illustration: These Two Articles Constitute the Only Parts Necessary to

Change a Camera into a Mile-O-View]

Prepare the paper, or hard rubber, by cutting it to a size that will

exactly cover the rear camera opening when the back of the camera is

removed, which, in the case of a post-card size, is 6 in. long and

3-3/4 in. wide; then cut a narrow slot, about 3/64 in. wide crosswise

through the center of the material. This slot should extend to within

about 1/2 in. of each edge, and the edges must be perfectly smooth and

straight. If paper is used, glue it to the opening in the camera. If hard

rubber is used, it can be made up as shown and set in the camera opening.

This will bring the slot directly back of the lens center and at right

angles to the direction in which the film moves when being rolled.

[Illustration: The Two Parts as They are Applied to an Ordinary Roll-Film

Camera]

A board is prepared, about 4 ft. long, 10 in. wide and 3/4 in. thick.

This is to take the place of a tripod, and it must have a small hole and

suitable wing nut to attach the camera near the center. This length of

board will reach from the back of one seat to another when it is placed

to support the camera during the exposure.

A wire, about 1/8 in. in diameter, is bent, as shown, with a short hook on

one end, and the other turned up at right angles, to serve as a handle.

This wire, when hooked into the wing nut, will enable one to wind up

the film at a fairly uniform speed. This completes all the necessary

apparatus.

To take pictures with this panoramic outfit, load the camera in the usual

way, but do not wind it up to exposure No. 1; stop at a point where the

beginning of the film will be nearly opposite the narrow slot in the black

paper, or rubber. This would be to stop the turning at about the time the

hand pointer appears in the small back window. Attach the camera firmly to

the board and brace up the lens end so that it will not easily shake with

the movement of the car. Place the board across the backs of two adjacent

seats, so that the camera will point out of the window at exactly right

angles to the car.

When ready to expose, open the shutter wide, turn the crank that is hooked

into the wing nut, and slowly wind up the film while the train is running.

This will give a panoramic picture, continuous in character, and if the

speed of turning is well judged, some very splendid views can be made.

The speed of turning the crank will be governed by the focal length of

the lens and the speed of the train. For an average lens, the crank should

be given one turn per second when the car is traveling about 15 miles an

hour, or the average speed of a street car, A train traveling 30 miles

an hour will require two turns of the crank per second. A good method

of trying this out is to use one film as a test and turn the crank a

few times and note its speed by the second, then stop and begin again at

another speed for a few turns and so on, until the entire film is exposed,

always noting the turns and time for each change, also the speed of the

train. When the film is developed the one that shows best will give the

proper number of turns per second.

The following points must be considered: The track should not be rough,

and the camera must be perfectly steady and not twisted out of position

by turning the crank, otherwise the resulting picture will be wavy. If

the slot in the back board is not smooth and true, the picture will be

streaked. Turning the film too fast will make the picture elongated, and

too slowly, condensed. Should the camera be pointed otherwise than at

right angles the picture will be distorted. This arrangement cannot be

used to take moving objects except under special conditions. A picture of

a passing train of cars can be made if the camera is stationary, but the

wheels and drive rods will appear twisted out of shape. It is best for

the experimenter to confine himself to scenery at the beginning, avoiding

architectural objects, because a variation in speed of turning the crank

to wind the film naturally distorts the architecture, which variation is

not so noticeable in a scenic view.

[Illustration]

A Photographic Worktable for Small Quarters By K. V. Reed

Flat dwellers have no space at their disposal for a person to work at

photography, and the bathroom must take the place of a dark room. As this

was very inconvenient in my case, I constructed a table, that from all

appearances was nothing more than a large-size kitchen worktable, and such

a table can be used in case the builder does not care to construct it.

The table is turned upside down and the top removed by taking out the

screws. The top is made of several pieces glued together and will remain

in one piece. It is then hinged at one side to the top edge of the rail,

so that it can be turned back like a trunk, or box, cover.

Boards are then nailed to the under edge of the rails. If a very neat job

is required, these boards should be set inside on strips nailed to the

inside surfaces of the rails, at the proper place to make the boards come

flush with the under edges of the rails.

At the back side and in the center of the new bottom, a hole is cut, 6

or 7 in. square, and a box fastened beneath it, to form a bottom several

inches below the main bottom. In this space bottles filled with solutions

are kept. The main bottom should be painted with an acid-proof varnish.

[Illustration: An Ordinary Kitchen Worktable Fitted Up as a Handy Workshop

for the Amateur Photographer Who Has a Limited Space in a Flat, and Where

a Table can be Used to Advantage in a Room]

The space in the table is then divided, and partitions set up, which can

be arranged to suit the builder.

Another attachment, which comes in exceedingly handy, is the ruby light.

This consists of a box, large enough to receive a printing frame at the

bottom. Two holes are cut in the table top, at the right places to make

a window for the light and a slit for the printing frame. When the table

top is raised, the box with the light is fastened over the openings with

hooks, the arrangement of which will depend on the size and shape of the

box. In closing, the lamp box is removed, and pieces of board are set in

the holes. This can be easily arranged, if the holes and blocks are cut

on a slight slope, so that the latter when set in will not fall through

the openings.

Back Thrust Prevented on Skis

To overcome the difficulty of skis slipping back when walking uphill

either of the two devices shown is good, if the attachments are fastened

to the rear end of the skis.

[Illustration: Two Methods of Making an Attachment to Prevent the Backward

Thrust of a Ski]

The first represents a piece of horse-hide, about 4 in. square, tacked on

the ski and with the hair slanting backward. This will not interfere with

going forward, but will retard any movement backward.

The other consists of a hinged portion that will enter the snow on a back

thrust. As the ski end is thin, a block of wood must be attached to it on

the upper side, and the projecting piece hinged to the block. The bevel

at the end allows it to dig into the snow when the ski starts back. In

going forward, it will swing out of the way freely.

Crystallization Shown on a Screen

The formation of chemical crystals can be shown in an interesting manner

as follows: Spread a saturated solution of salt on a glass slide, or

projection-lantern glass, and allow it to evaporate in the lantern's light

or beneath a magnifying glass. The best substances to use are solutions

of alum or sodium, alum being preferable. Ordinary table salt gives

brilliant crystals which reflect the light to a marked degree. For regular

formation, where the shape of the crystal is being studied, use a solution

of hyposulphite of soda.

Many startling facts may be learned from the study of crystals in

this manner, and watching them "grow" is great sport even to the

chemist.--Contributed by L. T. Ward, Des Moines, Iowa.

Furniture Polish for Fine Woods

Boiled olive oil, to which a few drops of vinegar has been added, makes an

excellent furniture polish for very fine woods. It will be found to work

nicely on highly polished surfaces, and also for automobile bodies. It

is applied in moderate quantities, and rubbed to a luster with a flannel

cloth.

[Illustration]

Enlarging Photographs By A. E. Swoyer

When the photographer wishes to make an enlarged print from a small

negative, he arranges a suitable light and condensers back of the negative

and by means of a lens projects the resultant image upon a sheet of

sensitive paper. Owing to the comparative weakness of the light, however,

it is necessary either to use bromide paper or some of the faster brands

of developing-out paper. If a more artistic medium is desired, a glass

positive must first be made and enlarged to produce a negative from which

the final prints will be made by contact. This process is somewhat clumsy

and expensive, for if any retouching or doctoring is to be done, it

must be upon a glass surface, either that of the two negatives or of the

intermediate positive. As all of this work is done by transmitted light,

there is the loss of fine detail common to all enlargements.

The difficulties incident to this process may be done away with by the

use of a modification of the popular post-card projector; the alteration

consisting simply in the substitution of a better lens for the cheap plate

glass with which such instruments are usually fitted.

A contact print, preferably on glossy paper, ferrotyped, is made from

the original negative by contact in the usual way; this is then placed in

the modified projector and the image thrown upon a sensitive plate of the

desired size. After a brief exposure, development will show an enlarged

negative having every quality of the original.

The advantages of this process are obvious. In the first place, the

comparative cheapness of the apparatus is a factor; in the second, the

intermediate glass positive is eliminated, the print which is substituted

for it providing a much better medium for retouching, faking or printing

in. Transparent water colors in the less actinic shades may be used upon

this print to control the final result, and if spoiled, it may be replaced

at a negligible cost.

[Illustration: An Ordinary Post-Card Projector Used Back of a Camera to

Illuminate a Photograph Which is Enlarged on a Plate to Make a Negative

Instead of a Print (Fig. 1, Fig. 2)]

At first glance, it would appear as if this method were simply a form of

photographic copying; it is, in fact, the reverse. For in copying any

object with a camera, the sensitive medium is behind the lens and the

object to be copied is in front, and the size of the copy is therefore

limited both by that of the camera and by its bellows draw. In the

reflection process, the object to be copied is back of the lens and the

sensitive medium is in front; as large a copy can be made with a small

camera as with an eight by ten. It is really more convenient to work with

a short-focus lens and a camera of limited bellows extension; the nearer

the lens is to the back of the camera the larger will be the projected

image.

The diagram (Fig. 1) shows that the size of the object to be enlarged

does not depend upon the focal length of the lens used, as in ordinary

enlarging, but simply upon the size of the opening in the front of the

projector. The dotted lines are drawn from the edges of the card to be

projected through the lens. Figure 2 is a sketch of a projector with the

lens tube removed, so that it may be used with a camera as shown in Fig.

3.

[Illustration: (Fig. 3)]

Homemade Screen-Door Spring

[Illustration]

A screen or storm-door spring can be easily made of spring-steel wire.

The wire is bent to the shape shown in the sketch and two turns given to

the coil as shown at A. The ends of the wire are fastened to the casing

and door with staples. Two or three of these springs can be attached to

one door where it is necessary to have more strength.--Contributed by Wm.

Rosenberg, Watertown, Mass.

A Surprise Water Bottle

The performer produces a bottle and gives it with a glass to anyone in the

audience, asking the person selected to take a drink of a very delicious

concoction. When the person attempts to pour out the solution it is found

to be frozen.

To perform this trick, the fluid must be previously made with a saturated

solution of sulphate of soda and hot water. Fill a clean white bottle

with the solution, taking care to cork the bottle while the liquid is

hot. The liquid remains in a fluid state as long as the bottle is corked.

When the bottle is shown, it appears to contain a liquid, and in handing

it to a person the performer must be careful to take out the cork in time

to allow it to solidify. In order to gain the proper time, pretend to be

looking for a glass, make some remark about a sudden chill or feel the

hand holding the bottle and say it is very cold. In the meantime, the air

acting upon the solution has caused it to become fixed and immovable, and

when the person attempts to pour it out, he finds it is impossible.

A Graduate Holder

A simple and easily constructed graduate holder in the form of a bracket

placed in the corner of a dark room is shown in the sketch. The bracket

not only holds the graduates securely, but allows them to drain perfectly

and prevents dust settling on the inside, as they are suspended by the

base. Holes of different size are cut in the board to accommodate large,

medium and small graduates.

[Illustration: The Graduate Holder is Permanently Fastened in a Corner of

the Dark Room]

Homemade Enlarging Camera

The ordinary hand camera of the focusing type can be used to enlarge

pictures from negatives of its own make. The requirement is a device to

hold the negative rigid in a position in front of the camera lens, and at

such a distance that the rays of light passing through the negative and

lens will enter a box of sufficient size for the desired enlargement and

focus plainly on a sheet of sensitive paper attached to the end of the

box.

The first thing to do is to find the distance that is required from

the camera lens to the paper enlargement to make the proper size, and

the distance from the lens to the negative. A correspondent of Camera

Craft gives the following rule for finding these dimensions: To find the

distance between the lens and paper enlargement, add 1 to the number of

times the picture is to be enlarged and multiply the result by the focus

of the lens in inches. The example given is for a 6-in. focus lens. An

example: A 4 by 5-in. negative enlarged to 8 by 10 in. is a two-time

enlargement (four times in area); 2+1 = 3, and 3×6 = 18, the distance in

inches of the lens from the sensitive paper. To find the distance of the

lens to the negative, divide the above result, 18 in., by the number of

times desired to enlarge, 18×2 = 9, the distance in inches from the lens

to the negative.

With these figures as a working basis, the box can be made in any size

to use any focusing camera. The dimensions given in the drawing are for a

4 by 5-in. camera having a 6-in. focus lens, and to enlarge the pictures

from a 4 by 5-in. negative to 8 by 10 in. In the first place make a box

8-1/2 in. wide, 10-1/2 in. deep and 14 in. long, inside measurement, using

3/4-in. material, as shown in the sectional drawing A. One end is left

open and in the center of the other a hole is cut 5 in. square.

[Illustration: Details of Construction and Camera Complete]

The back end of the camera is placed over this hole as shown at B and

1/4-in. strips nailed to the box end around the camera back to exclude

all light. The camera must be centrally located.

The next to be made is the end board or easel, consisting of two pieces

of 3/4-in. material, one 8-1/2 by 10-1/2 in., which should fit easily into

the end of the box, and a larger one, 10 by 12 in., the outside dimensions

of the box, as shown at C. Nail the smaller piece to the center of the

large one, crossing the grain of wood in so doing. The end board is the

easel upon which the sensitive paper is fastened with push pins, and

should be covered with a sheet of white paper, pasting it on the 8-1/2 by

10-1/2-in. board with a thin coat of glue. The slide D is a piece of wood

3/4 in. thick, 3-1/2 in. wide and 26 in. long. This is fastened to the

under side of the box with four screws, placing it exactly in the center

and parallel with the sides of the box. Be careful to have the slide

parallel or the holder will not freely slide upon it.

The negative holder E is made of a piece of 3/4-in. board, 8 in. wide and

10 in. long. A hole 5-1/2 by 7-1/2 in. is cut in its center, leaving a

margin of 1-1/4 in. on all sides. This holder is set in a groove cut in

a block of wood having a mortise cut 3/4 by 3-1/2 in. to fit on the slide

easily. A thumb screw is fitted in the center of the bottom of the block

of wood. This is used for fastening the negative holder rigidly to the

slide when the focus is secured.

A 1-in. hole is bored in the upper corner of the box end, as shown, to

serve as a peephole for seeing the image on the end board or easel. This

is covered before putting the sensitive paper in the box. The end board is

held in position with two flat brass hooks. The camera is held in place

with two buttons placed on blocks of wood the height of the camera back,

as shown at F. Two pieces of clear glass, 6 by 8 in. in size, are held

in place in the negative holder by means of buttons, the film negative

being placed between them. All the joints in the box must be carefully

puttied and the inside of the box blackened, which is done with a mixture

of lampblack and alcohol, to which is added a small quantity of shellac

to give it body.

A darkroom is not essential, a bathroom with the window covered over

with orange paper will do, or even a large room with the shades drawn and

pinned close to the window casing. It is best to leave a space in one of

the windows to be covered with orange paper, doing the developing about

10 ft. from the source of light.

To operate the camera place it on the enlarging box, hook the easel in

place, put a negative in the holder with the film side toward the lens.

Take the outfit to a shady place outdoors, point the holder end at an

unobstructed portion of the sky and look through the peephole. Rack the

lens in and out to focus the picture. The easel should have heavy black

lines drawn upon it inclosing parallelograms from 5 by 7 in. to 8 by

10 in., so that one can readily see the size of the enlargement to be

made. When the focus is obtained take the outfit into the darkroom, remove

the easel and fasten the sensitive paper with push pins. Replace the easel

and take the outfit outdoors again, point it toward the clear sky and

make the exposure, which should be at least 5 seconds with a 16 stop. It

is best to make a trial exposure on a small strip of paper to find the

proper time. Directions for the use of bromide papers will be found in

each package.

An Easy Way to Make a Shelf

Procure an ordinary packing box and mark a line from corner to corner on

both ends, as shown, from A to B in Fig. 1. Pull out all the nails from

the corners that may cross the line. Nail the top to the box and saw it on

the lines marked and two shelves will be formed which may be used as shown

in Fig. 2. Boxes dovetailed at the corners will make excellent shelves

and look neat if painted.

[Illustration: Two Shelves Made of One Box (Fig. 1, Fig. 2)]

[Illustration]

Multiplying Attachment for a Camera By J. C. Moore

The hand camera suitable for this work is the kind commonly known as the

reversible back, which is a detachable part that carries a ground glass

for focusing and a place to insert the plate holders. When this part

is removed, it will be seen that the back of the camera is mortised to

prevent light from entering. Construct a frame to take the place of the

back, but make it about 5/8 in. larger all around, and make one surface

to fit the mortise of the camera box.

[Illustration: The Attachment as It is Fitted to the Camera and the

Reversible Back in the Frame]

A back is now made and attached to the frame, to carry the ground-glass

reversible back, so that it can be shifted over the center of focus

for each small portion of the plate on which the picture is to be made.

Measure the outside of the plate holder and, doubling the dimensions both

ways, lay out a diagram on a piece of paper. Lay the plate holder on the

paper and move it to the extreme left, then to the right, to see if the

center of the plate will coincide with the center of the back. In the

same manner locate the center in a vertical position. If the center lines

do not coincide, increase the dimensions until this occurs. Mark, in the

exact center, an opening the size of the plate and cut out the wood. It is

best to use a three-ply wood for making the back, but if this cannot be

obtained, procure a dry piece of wood and mortise and glue strips to the

ends to keep the wood from warping. Glue the frame to this back, over the

opening, and make attachments to hold it to the camera in the same manner

as the reversible back was attached.

[Illustration: Manner of Laying Out the Pattern for the Back and Locating

the Exact Center]

If pictures of two or three different sizes are to be made, the opening

in the new back should be fitted with as many new pieces as there are

sizes of pictures, each to have an opening of corresponding size. For a

5 by 7-in. plate, 1-1/8 by 1-1/4-in. pictures is a good size, as there

will be room for 24 pictures on the plate with a small margin left for

notes. The piece to fill the opening should be made of the same material

as the back so that a smooth joint will result. As a board cannot be

made smooth enough for a perfectly light-tight joint, the surface on the

new back, over which the reversible back travels, must be covered with

cloth--a piece of black velvet is suitable--to exclude all light as the

plate holder is shifted over the back.

A frame is now made to carry the reversible back of the camera, the size

of which will depend on the size of the other parts, as well as on the

size of the camera to be used. This frame consists of two horizontal

strips joined at the ends with grooved pieces, fitting the edge of

the new back, so that it may be slid up and down in the grooves. The

crosspieces are also rabbeted to receive the reversible back and allow

it to be moved back and forth horizontally. The rabbet in the horizontal

strips should not be so deep as to permit the extending edge to overlap

the ground-glass frame, thus preventing it from moving back as the plate

holder is inserted.

If the frame on the back and the reversible back fit tightly, they

will remain in any position, but if they are loosely fitted, it will be

necessary to provide some means to hold them. Small springs with pins may

be fitted to the vertically moving frame to hold it in the position for

the horizontal rows of pictures.

The ground glass should be marked for the size picture to be taken. The

positions of the frame and plate carrier should also be marked so that the

plate holder need not be taken out to find the location and focus for the

next picture.

Connecting a Pipe to Sheet Metal

In the absence of a waste nut, an iron pipe can be easily fastened to

sheet-metal work as shown in the sketch. The end of the pipe, Fig. 1, is

slotted with a hacksaw to form four projections, which are turned outward

and their ends rounded as shown in Fig. 2. The face of the projections are

tinned and then riveted to the sheet-metal surface, as shown in Fig. 3.

After soldering the joint, it will be as good or better than if a waste

nut had been used.--Contributed by Lorin A. Brown, Washington, D. C.

[Illustration: The End of the Pipe as It is Prepared to be Riveted on the

Sheet Metal (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3)]

An Acid Siphon

When siphoning off acids or other disagreeable or poisonous liquids, it

is very important that none of it touch the flesh or mouth. It is almost

impossible to do this when starting the ordinary siphon. A siphon that

does away with this inconvenience and danger can be made as follows:

Procure a good Bunsen burner and two pieces of 1/4 in. glass tube, one

2 ft. and the other 18 in. long. Heat the 2 ft. length at a point 8 in.

from one end in the flame until it can be bent as shown at A. The other

piece should be plugged at one end and then slowly and evenly heated

at a point 10 in. from one end. When the glass is soft, blow slowly and

steadily into the open end, at the same time turning the tube around in

the flame. This will form a bulb, B. The ends of the glass tube are heated

and bent as shown, at C and D, and then fused onto the piece A, as shown

at E. This can be accomplished by heating the piece A at a point 4 in.

from the unbent end. When the glass becomes soft, place one end of a short

piece of tube in it and pull out into a thread. Break this off as close

to the tube as possible, to make a hole in the tube. Heat the end of the

tube D and also the glass around the hole, and when both become soft, they

can be fused together.

[Illustration: When Starting This Siphon It is Difficult for the Liquid

to Touch the Mouth or Flesh]

In use, close the end not in the liquid and, placing the mouth at F,

exhaust the tube, thus filling it with the liquid. When the closed end is

opened, the siphon will flow. The liquid collects in the bulb, and if a

little care is used, none of it can reach the mouth.--Contributed by O.

F. Tronnes, Evanston, Ill.

Bottle-Opening Trick

A local junk dealer, who was also known as the "strongest man in town,"

used to mystify the folks by opening a bottle, apparently with a stroke of

his index finger. His audience saw his index finger strike the stopper,

but did not see the knuckle of his second finger strike the eccentric at

the point A, as shown in the sketch, causing it to fly up while his index

finger B assisted the stopper out of the bottle mouth.

[Illustration: In Striking the Bottle Cork, the Knuckle of the Second

Finger Loosens the Wire Lock]

When trying the trick, it is best to select a bottle with a loose

stopper, or else wear a glove, as the gentleman who demonstrated the

trick had hands of the hard and horny type.--Contributed by James M. Kane,

Doylestown, Pa.

Setting Colors in Fabrics

The colors of fabrics or other materials of any kind may be set by boiling

the articles in the following solution: To 1 gal. of soft water add 1 oz.

of ox gall. This solution should be boiling when the articles are dropped

into it. A chemical reaction results and the colors are set or made

nonfading. The process is harmless. Colors in wood may be treated in the

same manner.

Towel-Roller Brackets

Very serviceable brackets for a towel roller can be made by using

ordinary wire clothes hooks, as shown in the illustration. The roller is

made of wood and two nails with their heads cut off, one in each end,

form bearings to turn in the ends of the hooks. When it is desired to

remove the roller, the hooks are sprung apart enough to allow it to drop

out.--Contributed by Hugh Carmichael, West Lorne, Ont.

[Illustration: The Roller Brackets are Easily Adjusted in Any Location

and Serve the Purpose Admirably]

A Developing-Tray Rocker

The tank method of photographic development is acknowledged as the best,

yet there are many who, for various reasons, still use the old-style tray

method. For those who use the tray, a splendid and simple method that

combines the good qualities of both the tank and tray is the tray-rocking

device shown in the illustration.

[Illustration: Developing-Tray Rocker to Keep the Liquid in Motion over

the Plate Automatically]

The rocker consists of a wood box, 13 in. long, 9 in. wide and 1-1/2 in.

deep, made of 3/8-in. material, together with a similar box 1-1/2 in.

deep, that fits over the other as a light-proof cover. Both are given a

coat of black paint.

At the center on the under side of the tray part, a right angle made of

strap iron is fastened with screws. On the part projecting down, a hole

is drilled to receive a sleeve made of a brass tube which is soldered in

place. An ordinary shelf bracket is procured, one end of which is filed

and fitted with a strip of metal having both ends turned up slightly.

Small-pointed pins are fastened in holes drilled near the turned-up part.

The points of the pins serve as a knife-edge for the rocker. The extending

end of the strap iron is fitted with a pendulum rod having a weight at

the bottom.

The rocker is attached to the wall in a convenient place in the dark

room. The tray with the developer and plate is placed in the box, which

is light-tight, and the pendulum is started swinging.--Contributed by T.

B. Lambert, Chicago.

An Adjustable Bookholder

A very satisfactory adjustable holder for books or letters can be

constructed of ordinary materials. A board is used for the base, and two

pieces, C, cut from the grooved edges of flooring boards, are fastened

on top as shown. A permanent end, A, is fastened to one end of the base.

A good-size holder is 19 in. long, 6 in. wide, made of material 3/4 in.

thick.

[Illustration: The Holder may be Used for Books or Letters and Papers as

a File]

The movable slide B has two pieces attached to its under side, which

are cut from the tongued edges of flooring boards. The piece D answers

the double purpose of a handle and brace. A lock, E, is made of a bolt,

having a long thread and a square head. A hole is bored from the under

side through the brace, and a portion of the wood is cut out to admit

the nut. A square place is cut out to admit the square bolt head in the

bottom pieces. To lock the slide, simply screw the nut upward so that it

will push the bolt head against the base.--Contributed by James M. Kane,

Doylestown, Pa.

An Old-Oak Stain

To make old oak of ash, elm, box alder, chestnut, maple, yew, and sycamore

wood use a solution of copper acetate, or iron acetate. Either of these

can be made by allowing a strong acid to come in contact with copper or

iron. Acetic acid, or vinegar, will do for the acid. The chemical can be

obtained from a local druggist if it is not desired to make the stain. By

varying the strength of the solution, several shades may be obtained. A

weak solution of iron acetate gives various brown hues. As the strength

of the salt increases by concentration, the shades of brown darken.

Tablespoon End Used as Lemon Squeezer

In an emergency, the ordinary tablespoon can be used as a lemon squeezer

by turning the lemon around the end of the spoon. This produces the

same result as obtained with the regular squeezers, which act on the

principle of extracting the juice by turning and crushing the lemon

over a rough projection which approximately matches the shape of a half

lemon.--Contributed by L. E. Turner, New York, N. Y.

[Illustration: The Shape of the Spoon Bowl Produces the Same Effect as

the Lemon Squeezer]

A Back Stop for a Workbench

In planing small pieces on a bench, they usually have a tendency to tip

up or slide around. This difficulty can be easily overcome by providing

the bench with an extra back stop. For this purpose a discarded plane

iron will do very well. Its edge should be notched so that it will easily

enter the wood. The edges of its central slot should be beveled off, if an

ordinary wood screw is used to fasten it to the bench. A series of holes,

several inches apart and in line with the regular back stop, should be

bored in the bench so the screw and iron can be readily changed, to fit

varying lengths.--Contributed by C. S. Rice, Washington, D. C.

[Illustration: A Plane Bit Fastened to the Top of a Bench to Hold Blocks

While Planing Them]

Croquet Mallets Protected by Metal Rings

[Illustration]

Due to the severe service they are subjected to, croquet mallets very

frequently split off at the ends, which spoils them for further use

in accurate driving. To prevent this, metal bands may be placed around

the ends of the mallets. Thin sheet iron, or tin, can be used for this

purpose. One end is bent up at right angles, the opposite end is provided

with a loop to fit over the upright portion of the first end, and then the

loop is closed up and hammered down to draw the metal tightly around the

mallet. The ring is secured in place with several tacks, or short nails,

driven through the seam.--Contributed by H. E. Stratmeyer, Rockville, Md.

Distance Marker for Printing Photographs

A convenient homemade printing device, or distance marker, for printing

photographs by artificial light consists of a smooth board on which twelve

1-in. marks are drawn, as shown. A wall-base electric socket is attached

on the first line and the others are numbered up to 12. A trial test of a

negative marks the distance and time of exposure which should be recorded

on the negative. Such a device makes uniform prints possible and provides

a means of recording time on negative-storage envelopes.--Contributed by

Harold Davis, Altoona, Pa.

[Illustration: The Same Distance with the Same Exposure will Always

Produce Uniform Prints]

Mantel Picture Frames Made in Plaster

Procure a small oval or rectangular frame of a suitable size and use it as

a pattern in making a mold. If it is not necessary to select an expensive

frame, one that is straight without any floral designs is the best to use.

Ordinary molding made into a frame will do as well, or a pattern, whittled

out of wood in oval shape, will produce good results.

Make a flask out of any small box, and fill it with clay instead of

molding sand. Make an impression of the frame in the clay, and the mold

is ready for the plaster.

Procure four 8-oz. bottles, fill them with water, and tint the water in

three of them red, green, and blue, with dyes. When purchasing the plaster

of paris--2 lb. will do--also get some brass filings from a machine shop,

and mix it with the plaster while in a dry state; then divide the lot into

four parts of 1/2 lb. each, or equal parts.

Use the tinted water to mix the plaster and pour it into the mold. This

will give the combinations red, green, blue, and white.

Picture frames made in this manner will stand enough polishing to keep

the brass filings on the surface bright and shining, which gives a pretty

effect.--Contributed by J. B. Murphy, Plainfield, N. J.

A Five-Pointed Star

There are many ways of making a five-pointed star, but the one illustrated

is new and easy to apply. A long strip of paper, which should be

transparent, is tied into a knot. When the ends A and B are drawn tightly,

the paper strip takes the position shown in C. The end A is folded

forward, or in front of the knot; then the whole is turned over and it

will take the position shown in D. Hold the paper to a good light and

a perfect five-pointed star will be seen.--Contributed by J. J. Kolar,

Maywood, Ill.

[Illustration: Holding the Knot to the Light a Star will be Seen, Shown

by the Dotted Lines]

Fastening Portière Pole in a Doorway

A pole can be fastened between two supports, posts, or in a door casing

neatly and without fixtures in the following manner: The pole is cut

1/8 in. shorter than the space between the casings, and a 5/16 in. hole

is drilled in each end, one to a depth of 1-1/2 in. and the other 3/8 in.

deep, a coil spring being placed in the deepest hole.

Screws are turned into the center of the location for the pole in the door

jambs, allowing one screw head to project 1/8 in., and the other at least

1/4 inch.

[Illustration: No Fixtures That will Show are Required with This Fastening

of a Portière Pole]

To place the pole in position, put the end with the spring in the hole

on the screw head projecting 1/4 in. and push the pole against the jamb,

allowing the other end to pass over the other projecting screw head until

it slips into the hole by pressure from the spring. The spring will keep

the pole in position.--Contributed by Ernest F. Dexter, Hartford, Conn.

Trick with Knives and Glasses

An interesting trick may be performed with three tumblers and three table

knives. Place the tumblers in an equilateral triangle on a table so the

knife ends, when the knives are laid between them, as shown in the plan

sketch, are about 1 in. away from the tumblers. The trick is to arrange

the knives so that they are supported by the tops of the three tumblers

and nothing else. Most observers will say that it is impossible; some will

try it and in most cases fail. It can be done, and the illustration shows

how simply it may be accomplished.--Contributed by R. Neland, Minneapolis,

Minn.

[Illustration: Knives Placed in Such a Manner as to be Supported by the

Three Glasses]

A Scraper Handle

In using the ordinary steel-plate scraper, much inconvenience and cramping

of the hands is experienced unless some suitable handle is attached. If a

piece of scrap wood is taken and cut to a convenient shape, with a groove

tightly fitting the scraper steel, greater pressure can be exerted and

more effective work produced, without cramping the hands or tiring out

the operator as readily.--Contributed by A. P. Nevin, Hancock, Mich.

[Illustration: An Ordinary Piece of Board Shaped for a Handle and Notched

for the Scraper Blade]

Photographic Tray-Rocking Stand

Films develop better if the tray holding the solution is kept in motion

or rocked. This is inconvenient and tiresome where a great many films are

to be developed. The trouble may be overcome by the use of the rocking

device shown in the sketch. It may be made of any light wood, the right

size to suit the photographer's needs.

[Illustration: Tray Rocked Automatically by a Weight]

The tray holder A is pivoted on the uprights C with pins EE. The uprights

are fastened to a base, B. Two braces, D, one on each side of the upright

C, limits the tip of the tray holder A. The weight F works as a pendulum,

which automatically rocks the tray when set in motion.--Contributed by

Abner B. Shaw, No. Dartmouth, Mass.

Kite-Line Traveler

The amusement of kite flying can be broadened by adding the kite-line

traveler shown in the sketch. The frame of the traveler is made of poplar,

spruce or soft pine, 1/4 in. square. The horizontal piece is 24 in. long

and the piece to which the wings are fastened is 8 in. long. This piece

is cut so it will have a slight slant. The brace is a mitered piece,

13 in. long. The frame is fastened together with small brads, giving it

the appearance shown in Fig. 1.

[Illustration: Traveler Details (Fig. 1)]

After the frame is finished, the traveler wheels are made and attached.

They should be 1/4 in. thick, about 1-1/4 in. in diameter, and have a

groove cut 3/16 in. into their faces. The pattern for cutting the bearings

is shown in Fig. 4. These are bent at the places shown by the dotted lines

and attached to the main frame stick as shown by BB in Fig. 3. The end

view of the bearing is shown in Fig. 5. The metal is bent in as shown by

AA, so that the wheel will rotate without much friction.

[Illustration: (Fig. 2)]

[Illustration: (Fig. 3, Fig. 4, Fig. 5)]

In Fig. 6 is shown the method of attaching the wings to the slanting frame

part. The wings are made of light cardboard and each fastened with tacks

to a wood arm, cut as shown. The large end of each arm is made to hinge

in a piece of tin with brads AA.

[Illustration: (Fig. 6)]

Fasten a string to the ends of the arm pieces, as shown in Fig. 1, and

attach a wire loop to the middle of the string, as shown in Fig. 3. The

wire shown at L in Fig. 3 is bent and attached to the main frame so it

will slide easily. The trip for dropping the wings, as shown in Fig. 2, is

a small block of wood about 2 in. square and 1/4 in. thick with a 1/2-in.

hole in the center. Slip the kite line through the hole before tying it

to the kite. Place the trip about 100 ft. from the kite and wedge it to

the string with a small piece of wood. The eyelets SS are necessary, as

they make it impossible for the pulley to run off the string.

The traveler is first put on the kite string with the end having the loop

L (Fig. 3) up, then, after letting out 100 ft. of string, the trip block

is fastened in place and the kite tied to the end of the string. Hook the

wire loop on the string attached to the ends of the wings in place in the

wire catch of L, and it is ready for the flight. When the traveler reaches

the trip, the loop L is pushed back, thus causing the end of the wire to

slip out of wire loop and the wings to fall back as shown in Fig. 2, when

the traveler descends ready to be set for another flight.--Contributed by

Stanley C. Funk, Bellefontaine, Ohio.

A Mouse Trap

[Illustration]

A simple mouse trap can be made of two lengths of steel wire. The spiral

wire is 1/16 in. in diameter and the center wire is of larger size. The

trap is set by pulling out the spring and catching the ends on the bends

A and B. The bait is tied on at C. When the mouse puts his head through

the coils and pulls the bait, the springs are released and his head is

caught between the coils.

How to Make a Small Electric Furnace

The furnace consists of a large flower pot containing an ordinary

clay crucible about 6 in. in height, the space between the two being

packed with fireclay. Two 3/4-in. holes are bored through the sides

of the crucible about half way between the top and the bottom. Holes

corresponding to these holes are molded in the fireclay, which should

extend several inches above the top of the flower pot. A smaller crucible

is placed inside of the large one for use in melting such metals as

copper, brass and aluminum. With metals that will melt at a low degree

of heat, such as tin, lead or zinc, the large crucible can be used alone.

Each crucible should be provided with a cover to confine the heat and keep

out the air. The electrodes are ordinary arc-light carbons.

[Illustration: Electric Connections to Furnace]

The furnace is run on an ordinary 110-volt lighting circuit and it is

necessary to have a rheostat connected in series with it. A water rheostat

as shown in the sketch will serve to regulate the current for this

furnace. Small quantities of brass or aluminum can be melted in about 10

minutes in the furnace.--Contributed by Leonard Stebbins, Denver, Colo.

Repairing a Broken Knife Handle

A piece was broken from the pearl handle of my knife and I repaired

it in the following manner: After cleaning both the edges of the pearl

and the brass beneath, I run in enough solder to fill the place of the

piece of pearl broken out. The solder was then filed, sandpapered and

polished. The broken part cannot be felt and it appears to be only an end

decoration.--Contributed by W. A. Humphrey, Columbus, O.

[Illustration: Repairing with Solder (Fig. 1, Fig. 2)]

Picture-Frame and Triangle Clamp

A picture frame or triangle is quite difficult to hold together when

fitting the corners. It is still more difficult to hold them together

while the glue dries. The clamp illustrated will be found quite

satisfactory in solving this problem, and at the same time is very simple

to construct and easy to manipulate. The material list for making the

clamps and corner blocks is as follows:

Picture frame clamp:

4 pieces, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 15 in.

2 pieces, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 5 in.

Triangle clamp:

3 pieces, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 10 in.

1 piece, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 4 in.

Corner blocks:

4 pieces, 7/8 by 3-1/2 by 3-1/2 in.

8 pieces, 7/8 by 1 by 2 in.

The pieces mentioned are of oak, S-4-S.

1 piece 3/8-in. maple for dowels

Hardware:

10 bolts, 1/4 by 2 in.

4 bolts, 1/4 by 3 in.

2 bolts, 3/8 by 6 in.

The picture-frame clamp consists of the four arms A, B, C and D, Fig. 1.

A 1/4-in. hole is bored in one end of each piece, 1/2 in. from the end. A

series of 3/8-in. holes, 1 in. apart, are bored along the center in each

piece. The two short pieces, E and F, have two 1/4-in. holes bored in

their centers, 1/2 in. from each end. These pieces are bolted to the four

arms with 1/4-in. bolts as shown in the sketch. A 3/8-in. hole is bored

in the middle of each piece E and F for one of the 6-in. bolts K.

[Illustration: The Corner Blocks on Both Picture Frame and Triangle Clamps

are so Constructed That They Hold the Molding together While Fitting the

Corners and also Hold Them Securely While the Glue is Hardening (Fig. 1)]

The four corner blocks G, H, I and J, Fig. 1, have a 3/8-in. hole bored

in the center of each and a dowel glued into it with the end projecting

1-1/4 in. on the under side and level with the surface on the upper side.

Each of the corner blocks is fitted with two pieces like X, Fig. 2. Each

of these pieces has one end round or a semicircle, and in its center a

1/4-in. hole is bored. The other end has a 3/8-in. hole bored 1/2 in. from

the end.

[Illustration: (Fig. 2, Fig. 3)]

After making the small pieces, take the four corner blocks G, H, I and

J and draw a line on the upper side in the center, with the grain of the

wood, and mark the angles as follows, so that one-half the angle will be

on each side of the center line: On one end of the pieces G and H mark a

90-deg. angle, on the other end a 45-deg. angle, on the piece I mark a

90-deg. and 30-deg. angle and on J mark a 90-deg. and 60-deg. angle. Mark

the number of degrees of each between the sides of the angle. Place two of

the pieces marked X, Fig. 2, on each of the corner blocks, one piece on

each side between the different angle lines, so their round ends will be

toward the center and toward each other with a space of 1/4 in. between

them. Clamp the pieces to the corner blocks and bore the 1/4-in. holes

through them to secure perfect alinement. Put the bolts in and turn the

pieces first to one angle and then the other, and while in the respective

positions, bore the 3/8-in. holes 3/8 in. deep in the corner blocks. Glue

a dowel in each 3/8-in. hole of the small pieces, allowing it to project

1/4 in. on the under side so it will fit in the 3/8-in. hole in the corner

block. Be sure to countersink the holes for the heads of the bolts. All

bolts should be fitted with wing nuts. All that is necessary to change

from one angle to another is to loosen the nuts and swing the small pieces

around so the dowel pins will drop into the other holes, then tighten the

nuts.

The triangle clamp is made in the same manner as the picture-frame clamp,

except that the arms L and M, Figs. 2 and 3, are half-lapped into the

crosspiece P. The bolt O is 3/8 in. and the head is cut off. Drill a

1/8-in. hole in the bolt, 1/4 in. from the end, and bore a 3/8-in. hole in

the end of the arm N. Insert the headless bolt O in this hole and drive

a nail through the side of the arm N, so it will pass through the hole

drilled in the bolt. This keys the bolt in the end of the arm N.

To clamp a picture frame, set the corner blocks G, H, I and J to the

90-deg. angles and adjust them on the arms A, B, C and D to accommodate

the size frame to be made, as shown in Fig. 1. Tighten the thumbnut on

the bolt K, and this will draw all four corners together with the same

pressure. The corners can then be examined to see if they fit properly.

If they do not, saw in the joints with a backsaw until they do fit.

The triangles are clamped in the same way. The corner blocks are set to

take the proper angles. The ends of the bolts should be slightly burred

over so that the thumbnuts cannot be turned off.--Contributed by Chas. A.

Pettit, Baltimore, Md.

Exterior Sliding Fly Screen

The method shown for fitting fly screens on the outside of the upper and

lower sash permits the screen to be raised and held at different heights.

Screweyes are turned into the outer strips, as shown in Fig. 1. The sides

of the screen frame are grooved, Fig. 2, to allow it to slide up and down

on the screweyes.

[Illustration: The Heads of the Screweyes in the Window-Frame Stop Slide

in a Groove Cut in the Screen Frame (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3)]

The screen can be raised and two of the screweyes turned from the

normal vertical position, A, Fig. 3, to a horizontal position, B,

to hold the frame at that point. By the use of a greater number of

screweyes more places can be provided to support the screen at different

heights.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Bushing a Stovepipe in a Chimney Hole

When a stovepipe is too small for the hole in the chimney, a bushing can

be made of the kind of metal tobacco boxes that are curved to fit in a

pocket. Remove the tops and bottoms of the boxes and shove them in around

the pipe. If such tobacco boxes are not at hand, tin cans of any kind

can be used by melting off the tops and bottoms and bending the remaining

cylindrical shells into proper shape.--Contributed by Elmer McConaughy,

Dayton, O.

A Screweye Driver

[Illustration]

An ordinary wire nail, 3 in. long, bent as shown and with its head filed

square, makes a good tool for turning in screweyes. The square head is

readily held in the chuck on most braces. The screweye can be turned in

with greater speed than by the ordinary method.--Contributed by Robert T.

Johnston, Buffalo, New York.

Copying Stand for Photographic Enlarging and Reducing

A camera stand or table, which can be put to many uses, is easily made

and, when made, will be of particular service, says Work, London, for

enlarging, reducing, copying, and, with a slight modification, for making

lantern slides by reduction.

Copying with a camera on a tripod is always a more or less complicated

job, because of the ease with which a picture, being focused, may be

thrown out of focus, and even out of the field of view, the camera not

being attached to the same support as the picture. With the stand shown

in the illustration, the picture is attached to the same support as the

camera. This makes it possible to place the apparatus on a table, out in

the open, or in any other suitable position, where the light may be best

for the work. When used for enlarging with artificial light it will also

be found convenient, as it may be placed in any position in a darkened

room.

[Illustration: Camera Stand for Use in Copying and Enlarging, as Well as

for Making Lantern Slides (Fig. 1)]

The size of the stand will depend on the sizes of pictures to be made,

but it is better to have it too large than too small, as a small camera

can be used on a large stand while a small stand would be of only limited

use. The general appearance of the stand is shown in Fig. 1. The material

list is as follows:

2 Sides, 1/2 in. by 9-1/2 in. by 5 ft., S-2-S.

4 Crosspieces, 1/2 in. by 3 in. by 1 ft. 7 in., S-2-S.

4 Guides, 3/4 in. by 1-1/4 in. by 2 ft. 6 in., S-2-S.

2 Bottom Pieces, 1 in. by 9 in. by 2 ft. 6 in., S-2-S.

1 Easel, 3/4 in. by 1 ft. 6 in. by 2 ft., S-2-S.

2 Cleats, 1/2 in. by 1-1/2 in. by 1 ft. 4 in., S-2-S.

Straight-grained soft pine or poplar is the best material to use. The

side pieces should be narrowed at one end or to a point about halfway

of their length. The extent of this narrowing will depend somewhat on

circumstances. The guide pieces are then attached with screws, the two

upper pieces so that they have their upper edges flush with the edges of

the side boards.

[Illustration: (Fig. 2, Fig. 3)]

The bottom piece, on which the camera is to be set, is made of the two

pieces, cut as shown in Fig. 2, and joined with cleats, as in Fig. 3. The

space left after part of one side of each board has been cut away, should

be sufficient to make a slot which, when the boards are joined together,

will admit the screw to hold the camera in place. A rod is run through

holes bored in the sides, just below the two pairs of guides, and fitted

with a wing nut for clamping the sliding bottom when a focus and the size

of the picture is found.

In copying, the camera is attached to the bottom board and the picture is

tacked to the easel. The camera is then focused roughly by means of the

rack and pinion, the final, fine focusing being done by moving the sliding

bottom board. For enlarging, the lantern is placed on the sliding bottom

and the bromide paper tacked to the easel.

[Illustration: (Fig. 4)]

For lantern-slide work, which is reducing, it is necessary to cut an

aperture in the easel, after the manner shown in Fig. 4. The edges of

the opening have a rabbet to receive first a ground glass and then the

negative, both being held in place with turn buttons. It is not necessary

to have two easels, as this opening can be fitted with a piece to make a

level surface when the apparatus is used for copying or enlarging.

To Make Whitewash Stick to Surfaces Coated

In using whitewash much difficulty is experienced in making it stick to

the substance covered. A good way to prevent the coating from cracking

and peeling off is to add 2 oz. of pure sodium chloride to every 1 gal.

of whitewash mixture. This is not expensive, but should be secured at

a drug store because some salts of sodium are not pure and will darken

the whitewash. The sodium chloride should be added after the whitewash

solution is made up. When this mixture is used in buildings it will

destroy all vermin which it touches.

A Mechanical Camera

[Illustration]

The young person who likes to draw will find the device illustrated of

great assistance for outlining a portrait or a bit of scenery which can

be filled in to make the picture. The camera consists of a box without

a cover, about 12 in. long, 6 in. wide and 4 in. deep. An oblong hole

is cut in one end, a small hole bored in the other, and a piece cut out

of the lower edge so that one eye can be placed close to the hole. The

oblong hole, shown by the dotted lines, is covered with a fine perforated

cardboard, the kind used for working in mottoes with yarn. Supports are

nailed in the corners of the box, their length being calculated to allow

the operator to sit or stand, as desired.

[Illustration: Outlining a Portrait on the Perforated Paper Placed over

the Oblong Hole in the Camera]

The camera is used in the manner illustrated. If a portrait is to be

drawn, then the one sitting for it must be quiet until the outlines are

completed. The operator, looking through the hole, traces the lines on

the cardboard between the perforations. When the outlines are drawn in

this manner, the cardboard is removed and placed on the paper or cardboard

used for the picture. The outline is then transferred by marking with a

sharp-pointed pencil through the perforations on the outlines as drawn.

After separating the two pieces, the markings can be connected with a

continuous line and an exact outline will be obtained which can be filled

in as desired. The outline picture is a sample of work done with the

camera.--Contributed by Florence Thomas, Gordon, Ont.

Gauge Attachment for a Pocket Rule

[Illustration]

The base of the gauge A is cut from a block of hard wood, about 2-1/2 in.

long, 1 in. wide and 3/8 in. thick. A notch is cut in one side to admit

the rule and the wedge B, which has a slot that slides on a pin in the

base. A small metal clip keeps the wedge in place. The gauge can be

readily set on the rule at any mark.

Plate Hangers

In hanging old china plates for decorative purposes use three large white

dress hooks, placed at equal distances apart on the edge of the plate. The

hanging wire or cord is run through them from the back side and drawn up

tightly. These hooks are much better than the ordinary plate hanger, as

they are small and will not show much on the plate.

An Electrically Operated Camera Shutter

[Illustration: The Electromagnet Trips a Spring Plunger That Forces a

Piston on the Camera Air Bulb]

It is often quite desirable to operate the shutter of a camera from a

distance, especially in photographing birds and animals. The device shown

in the accompanying sketch serves the above purpose very nicely, and its

construction and operation are exceedingly simple. In brief, the operation

is as follows: The switch A is mounted on the limb of a tree, in such a

manner that it is not conspicuous, and connected in series with a magnet,

B, and a battery by means of a piece of flexible conductor, such as lamp

cord. The magnet B is energized when the switch is closed and attracts the

iron armature C, which is mounted on an arm, pivoted at D. The lower end

of this arm is in the form of a latch, which supports the rod E when it

is raised to its upper position. The rod E when it is raised compresses

the coiled spring F, which is held between the gauge G and the washer H

mounted on the rod. A small coil spring holds the armature C away from

the core of the magnet B. The lower end of the rod E is in the form of

a piston operating in a wooden cylinder J. The rubber bulb at the end of

the tube leading to the camera shutter is located in the lower end of the

cylinder J. When the rod E is released by the latch K, it moves downward

in the cylinder J, due to the action of the spring F, and compresses

the bulb L, causing the shutter of the camera to be operated. A small

handle, M, may be mounted on the rod to be used in raising it to the upper

position. The component parts of this device may be mounted on a small

wooden base by means of brass straps, and the terminals of the electric

circuit connected to the binding posts N and O, as shown. The switch A

may be dispensed with and a push button used in its place, as the operator

may station himself several hundred feet away. It may be necessary to use

a battery of more than one cell in such cases.

Electroplating without a Tank

Electroplating without a plating tank is made possible with the following

easily homemade apparatus described in a German scientific magazine.

It consists of a rubber ball, A, fitted at one end with a glass tube,

B, which carries at the opposite end a small sponge. A rod, D, passes

through the rubber ball, which is tightly corked at both ends, into the

glass tube B and carries at that end the anode E. A small glass tube,

F, also connects the rubber ball with the larger tube B. The connections

from the battery to the cathode, G, the object to be plated, and to the

projecting end of the anode-carrying rod, D, are made as shown. The rubber

ball is filled with the electrolyte, and is squeezed so as to force the

fluid through the small tube F, into the larger tube, B, filling it and

soaking the sponge C. The current is then turned on, and by moving the wet

sponge over the cathode G, the latter will be plated. Not only is this an

interesting accessory for the amateur's laboratory, but it can be used in

the industry where only parts of some object are to be plated, and where

it is desired to remedy bad spots without putting the articles back into

the bath.

[Illustration: A Hand Tool for Applying a Plate Electrically to the

Surface of Metal]

A Milk-Bottle Tray

Bottled milk is difficult to deliver without knocking the bottles together

when carrying them or while in a wagon. There are several kinds of wire

baskets for carrying the bottles, but they all have the disadvantage of

allowing the bottles to strike one another. A carrier not having this

fault can be made very cheaply as follows: Procure a board 1 in. thick,

8 in. wide and 2 ft. long, plane and make it smooth, and use ordinary

tin fruit or vegetable cans for the bottle holders. Cut each can off

2-1/2 in. from the bottom and smooth off the jagged edges with a file.

Nail these in two rows on the board, starting 1 in. from each end. Attach

a segment of a barrel hoop for a handle. The carrier can be painted as

desired.--Contributed by G. H. Clemmons, Storm Lake, Iowa.

[Illustration: Parts of Tin Cans Fastened to a Board for Holding Milk

Bottles]

A Springboard

Select straight-grained hickory or ash for the springboards. These can

be of any width to make up the board to 18 in. wide. The frame part may

be of any material of the dimensions given in the sketch. The butt ends

of the springboard should be well fastened to the crosspiece with screws,

or, better still, small carriage bolts with the nuts on the under side.

[Illustration: A Springboard for Use in Connection with a Vaulting Pole

or for Turning Acts]

The crosspiece at the rear is cut on the angle of the springboard.

The front crosspiece is mortised into the frame, and the one near the

center is laid on top of the two side rails. The rear crosspiece is

either fastened with large dowels or mortised into the sidepieces. This

springboard will be of use in connection with a back-yard gymnasium for

vaulting and doing turning acts.

Planing Rough-Grain Boards

The surface of a board having a grain that runs both ways is very hard

to smooth with a plane. By sharpening the plane iron to a keen edge,

then placing it in the plane with the cap reversed and set about 1/32 in.

from the cutting edge, I find that with a light cut the plane will smooth

regardless of the direction of the grain.--Contributed by William Rollins,

Wichita, Kansas.

Braces for Aeroplane Frames

In making model aeroplanes or gliders the brace shown will serve the

purpose admirably. The size and strength of the metal used will depend

on where it is to be used. The metal is bent into the shape shown

with the use of a vise. The manner of attaching the braces is clearly

shown.--Contributed by Francis Chetlain, Chicago.

[Illustration: The Braces are Cut from Stake Iron or Sheet Metal According

to the Size Machine being Built]

A Puzzle Purse

The puzzle purse is made of four pieces of chamois, two of the pieces

being merely flaps, one on each side at the upper edge. One of the pieces

forming one side of the purse extends upward for about twice the height of

the purse part. The part above the purse has a number of slits cut in it

to make the width of each strip 1/8 in. These slits should be accurately

cut in order that the purse may be opened easily. The other half is only

the size of the purse proper. The upper edge of the latter piece and the

flap on that side are stitched together to the flap on the opposite side,

the threads of the stitches running between the strips of the long piece.

These stitches are made on the line AB and around the edge.

[Illustration: The Strips of Leather Sliding through the Stitches Make

the Puzzle Part of the Purse]

To open the purse, take hold of each side on the purse part and draw the

pieces apart. In doing so, the strips are drawn through the stitches so

that they may be separated and a coin taken from the purse. A pull on each

end will close the purse.--Contributed by Chas. Motton, Toronto, Ont.

An Emergency Sandpapering Machine

While doing some work I had several small pieces to be finished with

sandpaper. They were so small and of such a shape that it was impossible

to do the work by hand. Not having a sanding machine, I used a disk

talking machine for the purpose. I placed a sheet of sandpaper over the

disk and fastened it to the felt at the corners with pins. The machine

was then set going at its highest rate of speed, and the articles were

smoothed by holding them on the disk.--Contributed by Fred S. Barnard,

Los Angeles, Cal.

A Developing Machine

The base of the developing machine consists of a wood tray with sloping

ends and high sides, which is placed at the center and provides bearings

for the wheel axle. The dimensions given in the sketch are for making a

machine to develop a film about 29 in. long. The disk, or wheel, is cut

from a board, 7/8 in. thick, and the attached crosspieces are cut from

1/4 in. dowels to make them 2-1/2 in. long. These are placed about 1 in.

apart on the circumference of the disk.

An axle, fastened solidly in the wheel and adjusted in the bearings,

is kept from slipping sideways by bushings made of a spool. A crank is

attached to one end of the axle. Hot paraffin is applied to the inside of

the tank part, to make it liquid-tight. Two pins or hooks are attached to

one of the crosspieces to catch into the film end. If the wheel is the

correct size, the same pins can be used for fastening the other end of

the film.

[Illustration: The Entire Length of Film is Placed on the Wheel Where It

is Run through the Developer]

The film is first attached to the wheel; then, while turning slowly, the

developer is poured into the tray. Keep on turning the wheel until full

development is obtained, then pour out the liquid and turn in fresh, clear

water, and turn the wheel to wash out the developer. Remove the film and

place it in the hypo bath.--Contributed by Raymond M. Bealer, Baltimore,

Md.

A Stove-Wood Carrier

A handy wood carrier, for bringing wood and kindling from the basement or

yard to the wood box in the house, may be made from a grain sack, as shown

in the sketch. Use a complete sack and make rope handles at each end. When

used, place only sufficient wood or kindling in it to permit the handles

to come together over the top of the load. This will make a comfortable

grip and it is no harder to carry than a medium-weight suitcase. When the

wood is removed the carrier can be taken to the back yard and shaken out,

thus doing away with the dirt that usually results from other methods of

filling wood boxes.--Contributed by Walter Nelson Kidston, Seattle, Wash.

[Illustration: The Ropes at the Ends of the Sack Make a Handle to Carry

It Like a Grip]

A Pencil Sharpener

A pencil sharpened with the device shown will have a better point and one

that will not break easily while being sharpened. The lower arm A is made

from a strip of sheet steel, 1/16 in. thick. An extension, 1/4 in. wide,

is cut and bent in a circle to form the lower finger hold. The upper arm B

forms the cutter, which is made from a piece of hacksaw blade. The teeth

are ground off and the temper is drawn from the extension that forms the

upper circle. A portion of the arm A is bent over, as shown at C, to form

a support for the pencil point to rest upon. A hole, large enough for a

pencil to turn in, is bored through a stick of hardwood, D, and tapered

so that the center of the hole meets the inner edge of C. It is fastened

to the lower arm with screws. A sharp cutting edge is ground on the blade

which is then attached to the arm A with a rivet loosely enough to swing

freely.--Contributed by J. V. Loeffler, Evansville, Ind.

[Illustration: A Pencil Sharpener That will Make a Point without Breaking

the Lead]

Cleaning an Oilstone

Use kerosene oil and a sprinkling of emery flour and proceed to sharpen

tools. It is not necessary to clean a stone thus treated before placing

the tool on it, as the emery and kerosene will make a good surface

on the stone as well as assisting in producing a sharp edge on the

tool.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Landing for Small Boats

Not having a landing for my small boat, I made a series of sectional

platforms, rising 2 ft. above the bottom, which served the purpose well

and were inexpensive. Each section is about 15 ft. long, 3 ft. wide, and

2 ft. high. The frame is made of material 2 in. thick and 4 in. wide, and

on top is a floor made of boards, while the bottom consists of 2 by 4-in.

crosspieces, nailed on 6 in. apart. Stones are laid on these crosspieces

to moor it down in place. The whole landing is simple to make and it

lasts a long time, as the sections can be drawn out and stored during the

winter.--Contributed by Henry Briggs, Lexington, Massachusetts.

[Illustration: The Series of Platforms Make a Good Small-Boat Landing on

a Slanting Beach]

Bearings for Model Work

For experimental work I use hangers or bearings made of sheet brass or

copper, bent at right angles for strength and capped with a box. The main

part of the bearing A is shaped as shown, and the box B consists of a

small piece cut from a brass rod and drilled for the size of the shaft.

The box is soldered to the top end of A and the base C to the bottom

end. When a large metal base is used for a certain model, the part A is

attached directly to that base and the part C need not be used.

[Illustration: Sheet-Copper Support with a Base and a Shaft Bearing

Soldered to the Ends]

The bearings can be made in different heights, each of which will demand

a corresponding size and thickness of the parts. Sheet brass or copper,

1/32 in. thick, is about right for a bearing 3 in. high.--Contributed by

W. E. Day, Pittsfield, Mass.

Holding the Tongue of a Shoe in Place

The tongue in a shoe will often slip down or over to one side or the other

and expose the hose. To overcome this and have the tongue fit snugly in

the right place, fasten a common lace clasp or hook near the top of the

tongue, as shown in the illustration, so that in lacing the shoe the laces

are passed under the hook to hold the tongue in place.

[Illustration: The Hook on the Tongue of the Shoe and Manner of Lacing to

Hold the Tongue]

A Photo Vignetter

Procure a piece of heavy wire, one that is fairly stiff, says Camera

Craft, and a pair of pliers and bend the wire with the pliers as shown

in the illustration. After the loop is made to fit around the lens barrel

the wire is bent at right angles at a point 6 in. below the circle. At a

distance of 8 in. on the extending part of the wire it is bent as shown

to form a clip for holding a sheet of cardboard.

[Illustration: The Arm for Holding the Vignette Cardboard is Made of a

Heavy Piece of Wire]

The cardboard should be about 7 in. wide and of dark color, with one

edge cut semicircular and notched. The size of the wire and the other

measurements will depend upon the size and focal length of the lens. If a

heavy vignetting card is required, it may be necessary to make the portion

that encircles the lens double in length, bending it back upon itself to

secure a firmer hold. This is a cheap and efficient vignetter that anyone

can make in a few moments of spare time.

Pocket for the Inside of a Book Cover

Students or anyone wishing to retain notes on a subject will find it

quite handy to have a large envelope pasted in the back of each textbook.

Instead of having notes all through the book, they can be arranged in

order and slipped into the envelope. If the book is accidentally dropped,

the notes will not be lost.--Contributed by Harold Mynning, Chicago, Ill.

Cleaning Steel of Grease and Stains

Grease and stains can be easily removed from steel with a mixture of

unslaked lime and chalk powder, by rubbing it on the steel with a dry

cloth. The best proportion for the mixture, which is easily prepared,

is 1 part of lime to 1 part of chalk powder. The powder should be used

dry. It is kept in cans for future use and can be used over and over

again.--Contributed by Loren Ward, Des Moines, Iowa.

An Electrically Ignited Flash Light for Making Photographs

The results obtained in a great many cases in trying to take pictures by

flash-light are exceedingly unsatisfactory, as the expression on the faces

of the people in the picture usually is strained or unnatural, due to the

suspense in waiting for the flash. The following simple device avoids this

difficulty because the flash is set off by means of electricity, so that

the operator can control the flash from a distant point and thus be able

to take the picture quite unawares to his subjects.

The construction of the device is as follows: Obtain a piece of rather

heavy sheet iron, about 6 in. wide and 10 in. long. Bend this piece of

iron into the form shown in the sketch, and fasten a wooden handle to

it with a wood screw. Obtain a sheet of 1/8-in. sheet asbestos, the same

size as the piece of sheet iron, and glue it to the inside surface of the

curved piece of iron. It is best to fasten the four corners down by means

of some small rivets with rather large washers under the heads next to

the asbestos.

Now mount two pieces of sheet copper, 1/2 in. wide and 6 in. long,

parallel with each other on the surface of the asbestos and 1-1/2 in.

apart, so that their ends are even with the end of the piece of asbestos.

These pieces of copper should be insulated from the piece of sheet iron,

and there should be a small screw in one end of each and a small binding

post mounted on the other end.

[Illustration: The Asbestos-Lined Tray and the Wiring Connections for

Attaching to the Electric-Light Wires]

Procure a piece of lamp cord, 15 or 20 ft. in length. Fasten an ordinary

plug to one end of this cord and the other end to the two binding posts.

Open one of the conductors in the cord at some point and introduce a

single-pole switch, as shown in the sketch. Close the gap between the two

pieces of copper by means of a piece of No. 32 gauge copper wire. Place

the flash-light powder in position, but do not cover up the wire or have

it in actual contact with the powder, and close the circuit. The operator

may include himself in the picture by having a sufficiently long piece of

lamp cord and the switch properly arranged.

A Simple Twine-Ball Holder

[Illustration]

In looking for a place to put a twine ball I happened to see a tin funnel

and it gave me the idea which I put into practice. I punched three holes

at equal distances apart in its upper edge and attached three strings

which were run to an apex and tied to a screweye in the ceiling. The end

of the twine from the center of the ball was run through the funnel stem

and allowed to hang as in an ordinary ball holder.--Contributed by W. C.

Loy, Rochester, Ind.

* * * * *

A filler for birch, red gum and beech can be made of

1 lb. of bleached shellac to each gallon of water.

A Toy Popgun

A toy popgun can be easily made of two blocks of hard wood, 1/2 in. thick;

a joint of bamboo, about 7/8 in. in diameter and 6 in. long; a small

hinge, a piece of spring steel, 1/2 in. wide and 1 in. long, and a piece

of soft wood for the plunger.

The plunger A is cut to fit snugly, yet so it will move easily in the

piece of bamboo B. One of the blocks of hard wood, C, is bored to fit one

end of the bamboo, the other block has a 1/4-in. hole bored, to center the

hole in the first block. The two blocks are hinged and the spring latch

attached as shown in the sketch. The spring has a hole drilled so it can

be fastened with a screw to the outer block, and a slot cut in the other

end to slip over a staple driven into the block C.

[Illustration: Detail of Popgun, Showing the Parts Assembled and Position

of the Paper]

A piece of paper, D, is placed in between the blocks while the plunger A

is out at the end of the bamboo. A quick pressure on the plunger A will

cause the paper D to break out through the small opening with a loud

pop.--Contributed by Paul H. Burkhart, Blue Island, Ill.

A Non-Rolling Thread Spool

[Illustration]

A spool of thread may be kept from rolling by gluing squares of cardboard

to the ends. The squares should be a little larger than the spool. This

will save many a step and much bending over to pick up the spool. The

spool, when it falls, will stop where it landed.--Contributed by Katharine

D. Morse, Syracuse, N. Y.

Shoe-Shining Stand

To anyone who finds it tiresome to shine his shoes while putting the foot

on the rim of a bathtub, on a cook-stove or chair with a newspaper on it,

the stand here described will afford relief and at the same time he will

always have the shining outfit ready for use.

[Illustration: Dimensioned Parts and Completed Stand Which has a Box to

Hold the Shining Outfit]

The whole is of pine, the foot rest being made of a piece 2 by 4 in.; the

legs, of 1 by 2 in., and the bottom of the box, of 1/2 by 4-1/4 in. All

other dimensions are given in the sketch. After the legs are attached and

the bottom of the box in place, the sides are fitted and fastened with

nails.--Contributed by Samuel Hughs, Berkeley, Cal.

Cutter Made of a Wafer Razor Blade

A useful instrument for seamstresses and makers of paper patterns and

stencils can be made of a piece of steel or iron and a wafer razor blade.

The end of the metal is flattened and two holes drilled to match the holes

of the razor blade. Small screw bolts are used to attach the blade to

the handle. Place a cork on one edge as a protection for the hand of the

user.--Contributed by Maurice Baudier, New Orleans, La.

[Illustration: The Wafer Blade Attached to the Handle, the Top Edge being

Protected with a Cork]

[Illustration]

To Hold a Negative in a Printing Frame

When printing postal cards and working fast, it always bothered me to hold

the negative in the printing frame while removing the card. To overcome

this trouble I decided to contrive some arrangement to hold the negative

in the frame when the back was removed. The device I made consists of

a thin, flat spring, about 1/8 in. wide and as long as the width of the

frame opening. Two lugs are formed and soldered to the ends, as shown in

Fig. 1, for holding the plate, and a central lug is soldered on to provide

a means of fastening the spring in position. A groove, about 1/16 in.

deep, was cut in the opposite end of the frame to receive one end of the

negative.

[Illustration: The Spring with Its Clips and Manner of Holding a Negative

in a Printing Frame (Fig. 1, Fig. 2)]

In use, slide the plate into the frame and into the lugs on the spring,

and push the spring upward until the plate can be slipped into the slot

at the opposite end of the frame. The pressure of the spring, as shown

in Fig. 2, will hold the plate securely. The frame can be handled quite

roughly and as fast as desired without any danger of the plate falling

out.--Contributed by Thos. L. Parker, Wibaux, Montana.

* * * * *

A number of bright tin disks tied to the limbs of a

fruit tree will prove an efficient means of driving

away infesting birds.

How to Make an Electrolytic Interrupter

[Illustration]

Obtain a glass jar or wide-mouth bottle about one-quart size. An ordinary

round bottle will serve very nicely by having the top cut off, thus

forming a glass jar. Make a top for the jar from a piece of 1/2-in. pine

similar to the one shown in the illustration. The lower portion extends

down inside the jar and serves to hold the top in place. Cut a slot in

this top, 1/8 in. wide and 2 in. long. This slot should be cut at right

angles to a diameter of the top and extend 1 in. on either side of the

diameter. It should be about 1/2 in. from the center of the top. Directly

opposite the center of the slot drill a 3/8-in hole, 1/2 in. from the

center of the top. Drill a 1/4-in. hole in the center of the top to give

ventilation to the jar. Boil the completed top in paraffin for a few

minutes.

Obtain a piece of 1/8-in. sheet lead, 2 in. wide and about 1/2 in. longer

than the depth of the jar. Mount a small binding post on one end of this

piece of lead and then support it in the slot in the wooden top by means

of two metal pins. The lower end of the piece of lead should be at least

1/2 in. from the bottom of the jar. Next get a piece of 3/8-in. glass tube

and fuse a piece of platinum wire into one end. Make sure the inside end

of the platinum wire is not covered with the glass, and that the outside

end protrudes a short distance beyond the end of the glass tube. Now bend

about 3/4 in. of the end of the glass tube which has the platinum in it

over at right angles to the remainder of the tube. The tube should then be

placed in the opening on the wooden top provided for it and a rubber band

placed around it to prevent it dropping through the opening. The lower end

of the tube should be a little higher than the lower end of the sheet of

lead. A small quantity of mercury should be placed in the tube and a bare

copper wire run down inside. The mercury affords a connection between the

piece of platinum in the end of the tube and the copper wire. Connect the

outside end of the copper wire under a binding post and the interrupter

is complete with the exception of the solution.

The solution for the interrupter is dilute sulphuric acid made by mixing

about four parts of water and one part of acid. In preparing this mixture,

be sure to pour the acid into the water, not the water into the acid. The

jar should be about two-thirds filled. At least 40 volts will be required

for the satisfactory operation of the interrupter. The distance between

the platinum point and the lead sheet may be adjusted by simply turning

the glass tube.

No condenser will be required in operating an inductor coil with an

interrupter of this kind. The make-and-break interrupter, if there is

one in circuit, should of course be made inoperative by screwing up the

contact point against the spring.

A Homemade Hand Drill Press

The little use I had for a drill press did not make it advisable to

purchase one, so I constructed a device for drilling iron and brass which

answered all purposes. A broken carpenter's brace furnished the chuck,

which was fastened to a 1/2-in. shaft having a detachable crank. The shaft

turns in a brass tube which is fitted tightly in a hole bored in the

upright. The sliding part or table is forced up against the drill with

a 1/2-in. machine bolt. The bolt turns in a square nut fastened in the

opposite post. The end of the screw bears on a plate fastened on the under

side of the table to prevent wear. A crank could be attached to this bolt

so that it may be turned more easily.

[Illustration: A Very Inexpensive Drill Press Frame Which Answers the

Purpose Admirably]

The sliding or table part is made of a post similar to the end posts, but

with guides attached so as to keep it in place. The holes for the chuck

shaft and bolt should be bored on a line and exactly in the center of the

posts.--Contributed by L. R. Kelley, Philadelphia, Pa.

A Hose Nozzle

The nozzle shown in the accompanying sketch was made from an empty tobacco

can having an oval shape. I cut the can in two near the center and punched

small holes in the bottom. I then cut a piece of 1/2-in. board to fit

tightly in the end of the can and turned the edges of the tin down to

hold it in place. A hole was bored in the center of the wood and a 1/2-in.

hose coupling fitted in it. The water will swell the wood enough to make

an absolutely watertight joint, but by using a little care in fitting it,

the joint will be watertight without the swelling.

[Illustration: The Oval Form of the Box Makes It Possible to Sprinkle

Close Up to Walks]

The holes being punched in straight lines, the nozzle throws a rectangular

section of fine streams, which makes it possible to sprinkle close up to

walks without wetting them. The friction is much less than in the ordinary

hose nozzle, and consequently this nozzle delivers more water and also

materially reduces the strain on the hose.--Contributed by J. B. Downer,

Seattle, Washington.

An Electric Water Heater

A simple electric water heater may be made as follows: Procure two

sheets of copper, each 4 by 6 in., and place pieces of wood or other

insulating material at the corners to keep them about 3/4 in. apart. Bind

them with cords, or, if the wood pieces are large enough, use screws so

that there will be no contact between the plates. Attach wires to the

plates with solder as shown, and make connections to a plug. Pour water

in an earthenware jar, place the plates in it and turn the plug in a

lamp socket. Do not use a metal vessel.--Contributed by G. Henry Jones,

Sylacauga, Ala.

[Illustration: An Inexpensive Electric Water Heater Made of Two Copper

Plates]

Frosting Glass

Procure a piece of flat iron similar to an iron hoop, bend it, as shown

in the sketch, to make a piece 3 in. long and 1-1/4 in. wide and file one

edge smooth. Sprinkle some fine lake sand over the glass, dampen the sand

and rub the smooth edge of the iron band over the glass. It requires only

a short time of rubbing to produce a beautiful frosted surface on the

glass.--Contributed by M. E. Duggan, Kenosha, Wis.

[Illustration: The Filed Edge on the Coiled Metal Retains the Sand

Particles as It is Rubbed over the Glass Surface]

Long Handle for a Dustpan

[Illustration]

The dustpan is a rather unhandy utensil to use, especially for stout

persons. One porter overcame this difficulty by attaching a long handle

to the pan as shown in the illustration. The handle was taken from a

discarded broom and a yoke of heavy wire was attached to it, the ends

being bent to enter holes punched in the upturned edge of the pan. A stout

cord, fastened to the handle and tied into the ring of the dustpan handle,

keeps the pan from turning backward, and it is thus possible to push it

or carry it with the long handle.

To Fasten Chair Legs

Chair legs often become loose when chairs are handled roughly, so that

the glue is broken up. A small device made from a piece of pointed metal,

A, which is securely fastened to the end of the chair leg by means of a

screw, will hold the legs more firmly than wire or glue. When the leg is

driven into the hole, the points are pushed into the wood B as the metal

flattens.

[Illustration: The Metal on the End of the Leg Fastens It Solidly in Place]

Disk-Throwing Pistol

A pistol for throwing small disks of paper or metal balls, can be easily

made at almost no expense as shown in the sketch. Two pieces of board,

one of which is shaped to the form of a pistol, are hinged together and

a fairly strong spiral spring is fastened at the front end of the movable

piece and the middle of the other. A slot is sawed in the movable piece to

hold the disk, or a small round depression may be formed in it to receive

a bean, pea, or shot. The movable arm is folded back and held in position

by means of a stirrup of wire fastened on the other part. When the movable

part is disengaged by pulling the stirrup away with the finger, the disk

will be thrown with considerable force, depending on the strength of the

spring.

[Illustration: Disks of Paper or Metal as Well as Shot may be Thrown with

This Pistol]

Displaying Dye Colors

A certain druggist utilized old electric bulbs for displaying dye colors.

Water was colored with a dye and the end of a bulb dipped into the liquid.

Then the tip end was broken off, and the bulb being a vacuum, the colored

water was drawn into it, and filled the globe. The point was then sealed

with paraffin.

[Illustration: Globes Filled with Colored Water, Representing the

Different Colors of Dyes Carried in Stock]

A ring-shaped piece, 15 in. in diameter and 2-1/2 in. wide, was cut from

a piece of board, and 1-in. holes bored, 2-1/2 in. apart, in one-half of

the ring, The globes holding the colored water were set in these holes

and a light with a round shade placed in the center. It proved to be an

attractive display and a good method of showing the colors.--Contributed

by Maurice Baudier, New Orleans, La.

A Homemade Bench Vise

A serviceable and inexpensive bench vise can be made in the following

manner: Procure a piece of hard wood, 1 in. thick, and shape it into an

eccentric with an extending handle, as shown at A. The jaws B are made

of material 2 in. thick, and the drawbar C is a 2 by 3-in. piece of

hickory. The outer end of the bar is slotted to receive the eccentric

handle, through which a bolt, D, passes to form a bearing. Holes are

bored into the opposite end of the bar, 2 in. apart, into which a peg is

inserted to come against the back side of the rear jaw. This provides an

adjustment for a range of various thicknesses of material. Another bar is

located at the bottom of the jaws to provide a means of keeping the jaws

parallel. This bar is made in a similar manner to the bar C. The rear jaw

can be fastened to the side of a bench, post, or any support that may be

handy.--Contributed by Wm. S. Thompson, Columbia, Tenn.

[Illustration: A Vise That can be Quickly Constructed Where No Bench Vise

is at Hand]

[Illustration]

Timing Photo Printing

Having hundreds of postals of a single subject to print, I made a perfect

timing apparatus for exposing the prints from an old metronome and an old

gong magnet. A disk, B, 20 in. in diameter, was made of heavy tin with two

apertures, C C, each cut 7 in. in diameter, on a line with the center of

the disk, and 2 in. from the edge. A large spool, F, was used to serve as

a hub and also as a reel on which strong twine was wound, with a weight,

E, attached to the free end.

[Illustration: Details of Timing Apparatus]

The disk was bolted to the partition P of the darkroom, the partition

having a hole, G, to coincide with the holes in the disk as it revolved.

Four catch pins were fastened on the rim of the disk to engage a catch pin

on the armature of the magnet. The gong and commutator were removed and

the magnet placed in the position shown in the sketch. A strip of wood

was fastened across the face of the metronome H, about 1 in. above the

pendulum shaft or axle. On the inside of the center of the strip a small

piece of wood was projected, with copper wire on one side only, to form a

contact with a piece of flexible copper on the pendulum. Wiring was made

as shown in the sketch and a switch used to stop the disk from revolving.

An ordinary postal-card printing frame, D, with a hinged back was used

and placed on the shelf A, as shown. A hinge was made from heavy elastic

bands to allow for two dozen cards in the frame at one time. As each card

was printed it was taken out and dropped into the developer. The reel

and metronome should be wound up after printing two dozen cards. The

stops can be varied for any length of time by regulating the weight on

the metronome. The disk and all woodwork must be painted a dull black.

The circuit is completed on the return stroke of the pendulum, causing

the magnet to attract the armature, which releases the catch, allowing a

quarter turn of the disk.--Contributed by Frank W. Preston, Paterson, N.

J.

Pail Hook for a Pitcher Pump

[Illustration]

When pumping water from the ordinary pitcher pump, the bucket must

either be held to the spout or placed on the ground. The accompanying

sketch shows how I arranged a hook, fastened over the collar of the

pump, to take the bail of the bucket. The hook is made of 1/4-in. round

iron.--Contributed by Laurence B. Robbins, Harwich, Mass.

Shade Roller Attached to Upper Window Sash

Free circulation of air cannot be obtained through a window when the shade

is attached to the window casing, as it partly fills the opening caused

by lowering the upper sash. If the shade roller is attached to the top of

the upper sash, the shade can perform its function without obstructing the

opening when the sash is lowered. It only requires a shorter roller and

a narrower shade. The roller brackets are attached in the usual manner,

but, in order to have the shade hang vertically, a block, as wide as the

lower sash frame, must be fastened under each bracket.

[Illustration: When the Upper Sash is Lowered the Shade is Out of the Way

of the Opening]

This arrangement also makes it much easier to put up a curtain, as the

sash can be let down until the roller can be reached while standing on a

chair.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Flashing Hook

[Illustration]

Having occasion to do a large amount of counter-flashing in a new wall

where the mortar was soft and the joint too large to use an ordinary nail

or the regular flashing hook, I made hooks from No. 24 gauge galvanized

iron, having hooks of extra size and strength, as shown in the sketch. The

size of the hook is 1-3/4 by 3-1/8 in. On each side edge, 1-1/8 in. from

one end, I cut teeth, A A, and clipped the corners of the opposite end

at an angle. The end at B was turned down at right angles and the points

A A bent in the opposite direction. I placed the counter-flashing in the

usual manner, with the projection B hanging down and the pointed end of

the hook in the joint, and drove or pushed it in tightly. The points A A

will catch on the under side of the brick and hold solidly.--Contributed

by Ralph M. Chatham, Orleans, Indiana.

A Homemade Dibble

A dibble made of a round and sharp-pointed stick is the usual tool for

making holes when setting tomato and other plants. I found by experience

that a dibble made of a flat board would work much better and leave a

cleaner hole if worked into the earth with a horizontal swinging motion.

The hole produced is just right for the plant. The illustration shows its

construction.

[Illustration: A Dibble Used for Making Holes in the Soil to Transplant

Tomato and Other Plants]

Liquid Court-Plaster

A good liquid preparation for cuts and bruises that forms a covering like

liquid court-plaster is made by mixing 3/4 oz. of flexible collodion with

1/4 oz. of ether. When this solution is applied to cuts it will not wash

off. As the ether evaporates, add more to keep the mixture liquid.

A Substitute for Candles

One evening our electric light was cut off by a storm, and having no

gas, candles, or oil lamps, a very good light was made in the following

manner: A tablespoonful of lard was melted and poured in the top of a

baking-powder can, and four strands of ordinary white wrapping twine were

put into it, allowing one end to stand up for about 1/2 in. above the edge

of the can. The end was lighted the same as a candle.--Contributed by B.

E. Cole, Eureka, California.

A Poultry Coop

[Illustration]

A barrel makes a good protection for a hen with a brood of chicks, if it

is arranged as shown in the sketch. Procure a good barrel with a bottom

and cut off each alternate stave at both ends close up to the first

hoop. The lower openings thus formed make entrances for the chickens

and the upper ones admit air and light.--Contributed by Wm. R. Konnan,

Neillsville, Wis.

Preventing Mildew on Canvas

To prevent mildew on canvas, soak it in bluestone water, or if the mildew

is already present, coat the parts well with ordinary soap and rub on

powdered chalk, or whiting. A solution of corrosive sublimate, well

weakened with water, will also prevent mildew, but owing to its poisonous

nature it is best to use the former method.--Contributed by A. Ashmund

Kelly, Malvern, Pa.

* * * * *

When the steel point of a compass is lost, a

phonograph needle makes a good substitute.

Holder for Books in a Case

Very often it is found, after arranging the books in a case, that the rows

are not complete and the books at the end are continually sliding down on

the shelf. The sketch shows a very useful type of wire bracket to support

the last book.

[Illustration: The Shape of the Wire Makes It Easily Applicable to Any

Open Bookshelf]