One day I had to pull some tacks but had no tack puller at hand. An idea
came to me to use the kitchen spoon, and I found that it worked even
better than a regular tack puller. The ordinary kitchen spoon usually has
an edge sharp enough to get under any tack.--Contributed by H. D. Harkins,
St. Louis, Mo.
[Illustration: The Point of a Spoon will Easily Pull a Tack from Soft Wood]
A Puzzle with Figures
This puzzle is to arrange all the figures or digits, from 1 to
9 inclusively, in two rows, each containing all the digits, so that the
sum in addition as well as the remainder in subtraction will have nine
figures, in which all the digits are represented. There are several
solutions to the puzzle, and the following is one of them:
371294568 216397845
The sum of the foregoing numbers and the remainder, when the lower row
is subtracted from the upper, will both have nine figures and include all
the digits from 1 to 9.--Contributed by Walter Bennett, Detroit, Mich.
To Fasten Loose Table Legs
When legs of an ordinary table become loose and unsteady they may be
easily repaired as shown in the sketch. Nails do not hold well in such
places and glue will not stand much washing.
[Illustration: A Piece of Wire Bent around the Leg of a Table will Make
It Rigid]
The method of making the repair is to drill 1/8-in. holes through the
rails on each side of the leg and insert pieces of galvanized wire of
a size to fit the holes. After the wire is inserted, the ends are bent
over. The illustration clearly shows the repair.--Contributed by Edwin C.
Wright, Newport, Ky.
Washbasin Holder
[Illustration]
A piece of wire formed into the shape shown in the sketch makes a handy
hook to hold a washbasin when it is not in use. This keeps it out of the
way and out of the dirty water which might be thrown into the kitchen
sink.--Contributed by F. C. Althen, Anamosa, Iowa.
A Cleaner for Canvas Shoes
One of the most economical cleansers for canvas shoes is oxide of zinc.
Mix a small quantity of the powder with water, to the consistency of
thin paste, and apply it to the canvas with an old toothbrush, rubbing
it in thoroughly. Then set the shoes aside to dry before wearing
them.--Contributed by Katharine D. Morse, Syracuse, N. Y.
* * * * *
A good substitute currycomb can be made of corncobs
tied together tightly.
Ruling Blank Books
A special ruling for a blank book can be drawn by using a thin piece of
sheet metal or cardboard, cut as shown in Fig. 1, for a template. The
pencil is drawn along one edge of the cutout so that it will make lines
as shown in Fig. 2.
[Illustration: A Template Having Slots Cut for Drawing Special Vertical
and Horizontal Lines on Pages (Fig. 1, Fig. 2)]
If horizontal lines are required, cut notches on the edge for the location
of each line as shown. When the vertical lines are drawn, these notches
will mark the places for the horizontal lines.
How to Demagnetize a Watch
Quite often the attendants or a visitor to an electric-light plant
discovers after a few days that his watch is losing a half hour or more
a day by having become magnetized by the dynamos. In stations where the
old types of machines are still in use there is a great deal more danger
from what is called "stray" magnetic fields than in those where modern
machines are installed.
The jeweler demagnetizes a watch in the following way: He has a piece of
soft iron with an opening cut in its center of such shape and size as to
receive the watch, and with a fine wire wound about it. After the watch
has been placed in position, an alternating current, that is, one whose
direction is changing at regular intervals, is sent through the winding,
and thus a magnetic field is produced that also changes in direction
as the current reverses. The current is gradually reduced in value and
the magnetism originally possessed by the watch is removed. When an
alternating current is not available, a direct current may be used, its
direction being rapidly reversed by what is known as a "polarity changer."
Anyone can demagnetize his own watch, however, with very little trouble
and no expense by a much simpler method. Procure a piece of heavy linen
thread about 3 ft. long, attach one end of it to the ring of the watch,
hold the other end and turn the watch around until the thread is twisted
at least one hundred times. Now allow the thread to unwind, and as the
watch revolves, pass it back and forth near a powerful electromagnet.
The field magnet of a good-sized generator or motor will answer. The
machine should be in operation, or at least there should be a current
in the windings about the fields, when you attempt to demagnetize the
watch. While the thread is unwinding, and the watch moved in the magnetic
field, gradually withdraw from the magnet so that when the watch ceases
to revolve, it is just outside of the field.
Always be sure to keep the watch revolving while it is in the magnetic
field, otherwise the results will be very unsatisfactory, and more harm
than good may result.
A Pencil Holder
Procure a piece of paper, 7 in. long and 4 in. wide, and roll it one time
around a lead pencil, then coat the remaining surface of the paper with
glue. Roll this around the pencil and a tube is formed, which will hold
a pencil or even pieces of pencil down to 1/2 in. in length.--Contributed
by W. D. Brooks, Paterson, N. J.
[Illustration: A Stub of a Pencil can be Easily Held in the Tube for
Writing]
A Poultry-Food Chopper
The illustration shows a handy device for cutting roots for food, and for
chopping and mixing stale bread, potatoes, peelings, refuse fruit, etc.,
for poultry. Any blacksmith can make the chopper at little cost. For the
cutting blades use two pieces of steel a little heavier than oil-barrel
hoops, each 1-1/2 in. wide and 8 in. long. Procure a 1/2-in. iron rod,
about 3 ft. long, bend one end in the shape of a spade handle and split
the other end for a distance of about 2-1/2 in.
[Illustration: The Chopper Consists of a Rod Handle to Which Blades are
Attached by Riveting or Welding]
Sharpen one edge of each blade and curve the metal slightly. Lay the two
blades together with the convex sides touching in the center and insert
them in the slit in the handle end. They are riveted or welded in place.
Heat and bend the blades at right angles.
Many of the materials mentioned for poultry foods may be chopped in an
ordinary pail having a strong bottom, but it is best to make a box, about
1-1/2 ft. square and with a plank bottom, for use with the chopper.
A Small Spring Hinge
Box covers or small doors that are seldom used can be supplied with a
small spring hinge as shown in the illustration. The hinge is made of a
piece of spring wire which is formed similar to a staple with a coil or
complete turn given to the wire in the center. It is attached by driving
the points, one into the door and the other into the casing.
[Illustration: The Shape of the Hinge, and the Manner of Attaching It to
a Cover or Door]
Shoestring End
When the tips slip from shoelaces, new ones may be readily made of fine
wire. The wire is run through the end of the lace, Fig. 1, and the two
ends are twisted tightly together as shown in Fig. 2. This covers the end
of the lace and makes, a tip that is easily passed through the eyelets.
[Illustration: The Wire Prevents the Lace from Raveling and Makes a Tip
for Easily Entering the Eyelets (Fig. 1, Fig. 2)]
Threads on Wood Shafts
In model making it is quite necessary at times to have threads on a wood
shaft. These can be made quite satisfactorily by coiling a wire around the
shaft where the threads are wanted, and driving the ends into the wood.
[Illustration: The Wire Forms a Thread That in Many Instances is Quite
Serviceable for Model Making]
A Glass Breaker
After cutting glass, and especially where a small strip is to be removed,
the part must be broken away in small pieces. The accompanying sketch
shows a very useful tool for this purpose. The tool is made of a piece of
metal having a bolt fastened to it at one end whose nut can be adjusted
to the thickness of the glass.
[Illustration: The Nut is Set to the Thickness of the Glass and Used to
Break Pieces Away]
* * * * *
Old discarded blueprints can be made white and used
for sketching by dipping them in a solution of soda
and water, in the proportions of 4 oz. of soda to each
gallon of water.
Wood Postal Cards
The card consists of three pieces, or three-ply, veneer. The grain of
the outside veneer runs lengthwise, while that of the inside piece runs
crosswise. This makes the card straight and keeps it from breaking.
For the inner section, walnut, which may be had as thin as 1/64 in.,
or any thin straight-grained veneer may be used. Two pieces of veneer,
about 3-3/4 in. wide and 6 in. long; one piece, 6 in. wide and 3-3/4 in.
long,--the length being with the grain of the wood--and two blocks of
wood, known as cauls, of the same size or a little larger, and about
7/8 in. thick, are required.
The veneer is laid flat on a board and cut with a sharp knife or fine
saw along the edge of a ruler. The three pieces are glued together in the
following manner. Use ordinary hot glue, not too thin, but thin enough to
run freely from the brush. The glue is applied evenly on both sides of the
inner piece only, and this is then stood on edge until the glue chills.
Then the cauls are heated. This is best done on a stove, or on stove lids
over a gas fire. While the blocks are being heated, put one veneer on
either side of the middle piece, and a piece of thin paper on each side
to keep the glue from the cauls. A hand screw or vise should be opened
to almost the distance required. One of the cauls is now laid flat, the
veneers upon it and the other caul on top. This should be done quickly.
Then clamp the whole firmly together. While the full pressure is only
needed for about two hours, the pieces should be allowed to dry between
the cauls for, say, a day or two, so that they will keep straight. The
size of the finished card is 3-3/8 in. by 5-1/2 in. It is cut and planed
to size while lying flat on a board, the plane being pushed along on its
side on the bench top. To dress or clean, clamp one side to the bench.
While a scraper blade may be used to advantage, it is not essential, as a
block of wood and sandpaper will do. The thinner it is dressed the better.
The sharp edges should be removed with sandpaper. The writing on a wood
card is not done in the ordinary manner, as the ink would run. The surface
must be prepared, which also gives a finish to the wood. Melt some wax or
paraffin in a suitable vessel and cover the surface of the wood, using
a brush or rag. The lines for the address on one side are then drawn,
and the writing is done with a hard lead pencil. When through writing on
one side, cover it with some strong aniline stain. (Aniline, dissolved
in hot water, commonly known as water stain and used especially to stain
mahogany, is the right kind.) Do not remove the wax that was raised by the
pencil point. Brush the stain over until the whole side is covered. When
dry, repeat on the other side. In about an hour the wax may be scraped off
with a dull scraper or some other dull instrument. After every particle
of wax has been removed, the card is given a good rubbing with a clean,
soft rag. It is well to protect the hands as well as the table during the
process.--Contributed by Chas. Schapmeier, Baltimore, Md.
Fastening Screws in Tile and Brick Walls
A simple way to fasten screws in tile or brick walls is to drill holes,
not too large, for the screws, then tear up some paper, wet it and make
a pulp. Pack this pulp tightly in the hole and turn in the screws. The
screws will stand a great deal of strain.--Contributed by John Thomas,
Brantford, Ont.
Shoe Pull Made of an Eyelet
The pulling-on strap at the back of a shoe often comes loose, or pulls
out, and even if it does not, the trousers will sometimes catch on it
if the strap is not tucked inside of the shoe. A very simple way to
overcome these troubles is to remove the straps and substitute eyelets.
A buttonhook will then serve admirably in pulling the shoe onto the foot.
Holder for a Set of Sadirons
A very attractive holder for a set of sadirons and their handle can be
made as shown in the illustration, although the design may be changed if
desired. The holder consists of a shield-shaped back, which is fastened to
the wall in a convenient place and has a shelf with openings for the irons
attached to it. The shelf is made in two pieces, the bottom part being
covered with a heavy piece of tin while the upper is cut out to receive
the irons.
The irons are placed on the upper piece in such positions that they will
be attractively displayed and evenly located, and then a lead-pencil mark
is drawn around their base. Openings are cut in the wood on these marks
and the board fastened on top of the tin-covered shelf. An ordinary brass
bracket is used in the center beneath the shelf, to keep it from sagging.
[Illustration: An Ornamented Bracket Shelf for Holding a Complete Set of
Sadirons and Their Handle]
The shield is fastened to the wall with two screws, over which two
brushed-brass, diamond-shaped pieces are fastened with large brass tacks,
to cover the screw heads. The corners of the shield may be ornamented
with brushed-brass designs, and the wood finished as desired. The irons
can be set in the holder while hot without fear of burning any part, and
they will present a very neat appearance.--Contributed by G. E. Martin,
Hastings, Nebraska.
A Garden Roller
A garden roller for digging the earth and crushing clods is easily made
of the following material: One round piece of wood, 10 in. in diameter
and 18 in. long; two pieces of wood, each 56 in. long, 2-1/2 in. wide and
1-1/4 in. thick; one piece, 21 in. long, 2 in. wide and 1 in. thick; two
1/2-in. lag screws, 6 in. long, and a quantity of 8-penny nails.
[Illustration: A Roller for Crushing Clods and Digging the Earth in Garden
Making]
The short piece of wood is fitted between the two long pieces with
tenon-and-mortise joints to serve as a handle at one end and the roller is
fastened between the side pieces at the opposite end to revolve on the lag
screws. The nails are driven into the roller so that they project about
1 in.
A Substitute for Glaziers' Points
Ordinary small staples make good substitutes for glaziers' tacks. The
points of the staples should be drawn apart slightly, as shown at A, to
give them a greater holding area and at the same time make them easier
to drive. These points seem to hold the glass better than the regular
glaziers' points, consequently the putty will not crack and loosen, and
renewing is avoided.--Contributed by Edward Sieja, Chicago.
[Illustration: Double-Pointed Tacks, or Staples, with the Points Spread,
Used as Substitutes for Glaziers' Points]
Water-Heating Coil in a Furnace Pipe
[Illustration]
The accompanying sketch shows a plan I adopted for conserving the waste
heat from my furnace. I found that I was able to put a coil into the smoke
pipe, which was about 8 in. in diameter, and thus heat water for domestic
purposes. It will be seen that the coil is spiral in shape rather than
cylindrical, as the latter would leave a free passage up the center and
therefore would not bring enough gases into contact with the coil.
In addition to this coil I have a gas heater near the tank which is used
only in case the demand for hot water exceeds the capacity of the coil,
which is naturally not as efficient per unit of length as one directly
within the firepot would be. It has the advantage of not absorbing heat
which should go to make steam, but only that which would otherwise be
wasted. The heating surface of the coil is much greater than would be
possible within the firepot, which in a measure compensates for its lower
efficiency.--Contributed by W. E. Morey, Chicago.
A Homemade Marking Gauge
[Illustration]
A 3/8-in. bushing is turned into the side outlet of a 3/8-in. tee. The
bushing is then tapped to receive a 7/16-in. wing bolt. A tight-fitting
wood plug is driven into the throughway of the tee and the ends ground off
flush on the emery wheel. A slot, 5/16-in. square, is then cut through the
wood plug just under the bushing. Two pieces of flat steel, each 1/4 in.
wide by 1/8 in. thick and 1/8 in. longer than the tee, are fitted in the
slot cut in the plug as shown in the sketch. The outer end of each piece
is bent at right angles and sharpened. After the points have been drawn
out to the right distance, the wing bolt is turned to hold them in that
position.--Contributed by C. Molloy, Philadelphia, Pa.
Protecting Brush Handles from Paint
A very efficient method to prevent paint from running down on a paintbrush
handle and on the hand is to cut a hollow rubber ball in half, Fig. 1,
make a hole in the center to fit the brush handle and attach it as shown
in Fig. 2. One ball will fit up two brushes. The cup shape catches the
paint and prevents it from getting on the handle.--Contributed by O. H.
Meyer, Churdon, Iowa.
[Illustration: The Shape of the Ball Forms a Cup to Catch the Paint from
the Brush (Fig. 1, Fig. 2)]
A Tie-Pin Holder
[Illustration]
Having lost several tie pins by theft or by their falling out I made a
little device to securely hold the pin in the tie. This device makes it
almost impossible to pull the pin out and it cannot be lost accidentally.
The device is made of a small safety pin, bent as shown, with one arm, A,
longer than the other, B. The arm A is put on the pin first or upward, and
attached as shown at C. When pulling on the tie pin the arms of the holder
tend to draw together and clamp it on the pin.--Contributed by Robert C.
Knox, Colorado Springs, Colo.
Hulling Walnuts
When gathering my winter supply of walnuts, I found that they could not
be hulled readily by hand. Not knowing of any machine designed for the
purpose, I tried running them through a corn sheller and found it to do
the work nicely. The sheller not only hulled them, but separated the nuts
from the hulls, the nuts being carried out through the cob opening and
the hulls dropping through the grain spout.--Contributed by Irl R. Hicks,
Hallsville, Mo.
How to Make a Small Vise Screw
Procure an ordinary lag screw, as shown in Fig. 1, cut off the pointed
end and file the threads into the shape shown in Fig. 2. A hole is
drilled through the head and a handle put in, as shown in Fig. 3. This
makes a good substitute screw when the original screw for a small vise is
broken.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown. Pa.
[Illustration: A Vise Screw Formed of an Ordinary Lag Screw, the Threads
being Made Square and a Handle Attached (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3)]
A Medicine-Spoon Holder
When a dropper is not at hand it is difficult to drop medicine in a spoon
while holding it, and the shape of the spoon will not permit its being set
down. A shoe horn used as shown in the sketch will hold the spoon right
side up and in a position to hold the liquid.--Contributed by Maurice
Baudier, New Orleans, La.
[Illustration: A Shoe Horn is the Right Shape to Hold the Spoon Right Side
Up and Level]
Knife Holder on a Frying Pan
Instead of laying a knife on the stove or carrying it to a table or
elsewhere while frying anything in a pan, make a clip to fit the edge of
the pan for holding the knife when it is not in use. The clip is easily
made of brass wire and when attached to a frying pan it will save many
steps.--Contributed by John C. Harlacker, Jr., Cumberland, B. C.
[Illustration: The Shape of the Clip and Manner of Attaching It to a
Frying Pan]
A Broom for Sweeping Out Corners in Steps
[Illustration]
Sweeping the corners of steps is one of the greatest difficulties of
the housewife, or others who have a number of stairs to sweep. I have
made this task easy in a very simple manner. I secured a used broom, the
longer and newer the better, and cut the straws off diagonally across the
sweeping edge. The pointed part will easily clean out the corners in steps
or in a room.--Contributed by W. A. Stamaman, Berlin, Ontario.
Removing a Cork from a Bottle
A cork that has been pushed into a bottle accidentally or otherwise can
be easily removed in the following manner: Tie several knots in one end
of a string to form a large cluster and drop it into the bottle, holding
on to the other end of the string. Turn the bottle over so that the cork
will fall to the opening in the neck, then pull on the string. The cluster
formed by the knots at the end of the string will easily draw out the
cork.--Contributed by Frank Hart, Chicago, Ill.
Filing Flat Surfaces
Anyone who has used a file knows what skill is required to produce flat
surfaces. A fixture which is nothing more than a mirror properly placed
enables the operator to sight along the file and see at all times just
how the file is running.--Contributed by A. F. Stearns, Madison, Wis.
[Illustration: The File can be Seen in the Mirror and Its Direction
Controlled for Filing Flat Surfaces]
Tacking a Screen on a Frame
[Illustration]
Screen wire is very difficult material to fasten on a frame so that it
becomes taut. To make it taut and even drive the tacks as follows: First
tack the screen on one side of the frame, taking care to leave no slack
between the tacks, which should be about 1 ft. apart. Fasten the opposite
side by stretching the screen with one hand and with the other place the
tack through the meshes and push the point as far as possible toward the
outer edge of the screen frame as shown in the sketch. Drive the tack so
that it will enter the wood straight, which will draw the screen taut.
After having thus fastened the screen to two opposite sides of the frame
with tacks 1 ft. apart, other tacks are driven in midway between the first
ones, stretching the screen and driving the tacks as before described,
until a sufficient number of tacks are driven into either side. Then both
ends are attached in the same manner.--Contributed by Bertram S. Barnes,
Santa Barbara, Cal.
Safety Tips on Chair Rockers
Some rocking chairs are so constructed that when the person occupying it
gives a hard tilt backward, the chair tips over or dangerously near it.
A rubber-tipped screw turned into the under side of each rocker, near the
rear end, will prevent the chair from tipping too far back.
Portable and Folding Bookcase or Closet
Two packing boxes hinged as shown and fitted with casters make a very
convenient portable closet. It can be folded flat against a wall or fitted
into a corner. If furnished with shelves, it can be used as a bookcase or
tool closet, and when fully opened, it makes a handy workbench.
Two projecting strips are fitted on the inside of one box so as to fit
tightly against the inner top and bottom surfaces of the other box, to
increase the rigidity of the box when closed. The addition of casters
makes the opening, closing and pushing about very easy. An ornamental hasp
or lock can be fitted if desired.
[Illustration: The Two Boxes are Joined on One Edge with Hinges and with
a Hasp, if Desired, on the Other]
A Curtain Stop
A small screweye turned into the bottom part or wood strip inclosed in
the lower end of the curtain will prevent this end from winding over
the top roller when the curtain is quickly released and rolls to the
top.--Contributed by D. O. C. Kersten, Detroit, Michigan.
An Alarm for a Sleepwalker
A little girl in our family would walk in her sleep and it caused us
no little worry lest she might leave the house without our knowing it.
I therefore rigged up an alarm device to ring a bell should she leave
the room. The device consisted of a bell and battery in a circuit, and
a switch which was attached to one door casing. A string was stretched
across the doorway and attached to the switch lever in such a manner
as to pull it closed when the string was pushed through the doorway
opening.--Contributed by J. Woodburn, Toronto, Canada.
A Kraut and Root Grinder
The grinder is intended mainly for chopping cabbage when making
sauerkraut, but it is also of much service in grinding vegetables and
roots to be cooked for poultry.
[Illustration: The Grinder will Easily Reduce Cabbage Heads to Bits
Suitable for Sauerkraut]
The base A is made of a plank, at least 1 ft. wide and 4 ft. long, with a
9-1/4 by 9-1/2-in. hole cut in the center. The grinding part, or cylinder,
is made of wood, 3 in. in diameter and 9 in. long, with 8-penny nails,
spaced 3/16 in. apart, driven partly into it and then cut off so as to
leave 1/4 in. projecting. The cylinder is turned by means of a crank
attached to the end of the shaft.
A hopper, B, is constructed, 4 by 9-1/2 in. inside measurement at the
bottom, and as large as necessary at the top. A space is provided at
the bottom as shown to receive the concave C, which consists of a 1-in.
board, 3 to 4 in. wide and 9 in. long, with nails driven in and cut off
as described for the cylinder.
The hopper is securely fastened on top of the baseboard and over the
cylinder. The concave is slipped into place and held with wedges or by
driving two nails in just far enough to fasten it temporarily. The concave
can be adjusted for grinding the different vegetable products, or replaced
at any time with a new one.
The ends of the base are supported on boxes, or legs may be provided if
desired. When grinding cabbage, cut the heads into quarters and remove the
hearts. Press the cabbage on the cylinder and turn the crank. Fine bits
of cabbage, suitable for sauerkraut, will be the result.--Contributed by
J. G. Allshouse, Avonmore, Pa.
Opening for Air at the Top of a Shade
Procure an extra long shade and cut two openings in the end to be used at
the top. The openings may be cut square or ornamental as desired, leaving
a strip at each side and one in the center. These strips are reinforced
by gluing on some of the same material as the shade or pieces of tape.
[Illustration: When the Shade is Pulled Down the Openings Coincide with
the Opening over the Upper Sash]
A shade made in this manner permits the air to enter the room unhindered
when the top sash is lowered and at the same time obstructs the view of
passers-by.--Contributed by Warren E. Crane, Cleveland, O.
Hose Attachment for Watering Window Plants
The window garden of the house has its watering difficulties which one
owner overcame in a neat and handy manner. A hose on a weighted reel was
attached to the joists in the basement under the floor near the window
flower pots. The weight on the reel kept the hose wound on it and the
nozzle end which projects through the floor is large enough to hold it
from passing through the hole bored for the hose. A long stem valve was
provided with the wheel attached above the floor for turning the water on
and off.
[Illustration: The Hose is Automatically Run on a Reel by a Weight beneath
the Floor]
When the plants need a shower all that is necessary is to draw the hose
nozzle up and turn on the water. The hole for the hose and the valve wheel
can be located close to the wall under the flower tray where they will
scarcely be seen.
Removing Paint from Glass
Paint may be easily cleaned from glass by using a 50-per-cent solution of
acetic acid. The acid should be heated and applied with a cloth. The hot
acid will not hurt the hands or fabrics, nor the glass, but should be kept
from children who might drink of it. The solution is made of commercial
acetic acid and heated by adding hot water. The acid is inexpensive and
can be purchased at any local drug store.
To Prevent Baking Ovens from Scorching
A good method to prevent baking ovens from scorching or burning pastry
is to sprinkle a mixture of sand and salt on the bottom where the pans
are placed. This affords a way of radiating the heat evenly. The mixture
also absorbs fruit juices, which may be spilled in the course of cooking.
The covering is easily changed, which keeps the oven clean. The best
proportion is half salt and half sand.
Horn Candle Sconce
The person who cares for things unusual will find the candle sconce made
of a cowhorn a suitable fixture for the den. A well shaped and not too
large cowhorn is selected, and prepared by first partly filling it with
paper, packed in tightly, then filling it to the top with plaster of
Paris, in which a candle socket is formed.
The bracket is made of strips of metal, formed as shown and riveted
together where they touch each other, the back piece being fastened with
screws to a wall board. The metal may be brass or copper and finished in
nickel, antique, bronze, or given a brush finish. The wooden wall piece
can be finished in any style desired.
[Illustration: The Cowhorn with Bracket and Wall Board, Making an Unusual
Candle Sconce for the Den]
* * * * *
White spots on furniture can be removed by rubbing
the wood with ammonia.
How to Make a Copper Stencil for Marking Laundry
A stencil suitable for marking laundry may be easily made as follows:
First procure a small sheet of "stencil sheet copper," about 1 in. wide
and 4 in. long. Dip this sheet of copper in a vessel containing some
melted beeswax, so that both sides will be evenly covered with a thin
coat of the wax when it cools. The design--name, monogram or figure--that
is wanted in the stencil should now be drawn upon a piece of thin white
paper, the reverse side of the paper blackened with graphite, and then
laid on the stencil plate with the design in the center of the plate,
whereupon the design is lightly traced with a blunt point on the thin wax
coating. After the paper is removed, trace the design on the wax surface
with a pointed instrument, but not completely, the lines being broken at
more or less regular intervals, to form "holders" so that, after etching,
the design cannot fall out.
Next lay the stencil in a small shallow dish and pour a small quantity of
fresh nitric acid over it. Keep the air bubbles removed from the surface
by means of a piece of soft feather. The design will be eaten away in a
very short time, where the wax has been removed, and this may be readily
observed by holding the stencil plate up to the light. The acid should
then be rinsed off with water, and the wax removed by heating and wiping
it off with a cloth. The stencil may be given a final cleaning in a dish
of benzine or gasoline, which will remove any remaining wax.
A Brass Pin Tray
A novelty pin tray can be easily made of a piece of No. 24 gauge sheet
brass or copper, 5 in. in diameter. The metal is annealed and polished
with fine emery cloth, which is given a circular motion to produce a
frosted effect. The necessary tools are a 1-in. hardwood board with a
2-1/2-in. hole bored in it, and a round piece of hard wood, 1-7/8 or 2 in.
in diameter, with the ends sawn off square.
[Illustration: The Former and Method of Using It to Produce a Wrinkled
Edge on the Tray]
Place the sheet metal centrally over the hole in the board and set one
end of the round stick in the center of the metal. Drive the stick with a
hammer until a recess about 1 in. deep is made in the center. The edge of
the metal will wrinkle up as shown in the sketch. It is scarcely possible
to make two trays alike, as the edge almost invariably will buckle in a
different manner.--Contributed by F. Van Eps, Plainfield, N. J.
A Homemade Exerciser
A weight machine for exercising the muscles of the arms is easily
constructed by using two screw hooks, 5 in. long, and two small pulleys,
2-1/2 in. in diameter. An awning pulley can be used for this purpose.
The hole at the top of the hanger will allow the pulley to freely turn
at almost any angle. A paving brick or a piece of metal can be used as a
weight for each rope.--Contributed by Sterling R. Speirs, St. Louis, Mo.
[Illustration: The Yoke of the Pulley is so Arranged as to Make It Move
in All Positions on the Hook]
A Book Covering
New books can be quickly and neatly covered to keep them clean by cutting
a paper large enough to cover the back and sides when the book is closed,
allowing 1 in. extra at each end to be turned over the front and back
edges, then pasting on corners cut from used envelopes. The paper jacket
can be slipped on or off easily when the book is opened, and it will keep
a new cover clean while the book is being handled.--Contributed by Dr.
John A. Cohalan, Philadelphia.
[Illustration: Paper Covering Kept in Place with Corners Cut from Old
Envelopes and Pasted on the Paper]
A Tilting Inkstand
An ink-bottle stand, that can be tilted or adjusted so that the pen will
always be filled with a sufficient quantity of ink even when little of
it remains in the bottle, as shown in the sketch, can be easily made by
the amateur. The base may consist of a square piece of sheet brass, which
has soldered or riveted to its center two pieces of spring brass, placed
crosswise and bent upward so as to form clips to hold the bottle firmly.
The legs are made of two lengths of wire, of sufficient stiffness, and
are shaped to form holders for lead pencils and penholders. One pair of
the legs may be soldered to the brass plate and the opposite side of the
latter rolled over the other pair so as to allow them either to stand
upright or be depressed in order to tilt the stand, when the ink supply
in the bottle gets low.
[Illustration: Tilting Stand for an Ordinary Ink Bottle to Give Access
for a Small Supply of Ink]
A Ring Trick
The trick to be described is one of the simplest and at the same time
one of the most effective, and but little "make-ready" is required to
perform it. The magician, while sitting in a chair, allows his hands to
be tied together behind the back of the chair. A ring is placed between
his lips which he claims to be able to slip on his finger without untying
his hands. This, to the audience, seems practically impossible, but it is
easily accomplished.
A screen is placed in front of the performer before the trick is started,
so that the audience will not see how it is done. As soon as he is hidden
from view, he tilts his head forward and drops the ring in his lap. He
then allows the ring to drop to the seat of the chair between his legs.
The chair is tilted backward slightly, and he raises himself to allow the
ring to slip to the back part of the chair seat, where he catches it in
his hands and slips it on the finger. Any one finger may be mentioned, as
he can slip the ring as readily on one as on another. Use a leather-bottom
chair, if possible, as the least noise will then be made when the ring is
dropped.--Contributed by Abner B. Shaw, N. Dartmouth, Massachusetts.
Removing Old Putty
A very effective way to remove old putty from window panes or other
articles is to apply a red-hot iron, as follows: The iron should be made
of a broken file or cold chisel and the point heated quite hot. This
is run over the surface of the putty, which will crack and fall off. Be
careful not to let the hot iron touch the glass, as the heat may cause
the latter to break.
[Illustration]
How to Make a Water Wheel
The materials used in the construction of this water wheel are such as
the average amateur mechanic may pick up or secure from a junk pile. The
drawings in Fig. 1 clearly show the way the wheel is built. The nozzle,
Fig. 2, is made of pipe and fittings and is adjustable to concentrate
the stream so as to get the full efficiency of the weight and velocity of
the water. The cap on the end of the nipple is drilled to receive the pin
point filed on the end of the 1/4-in. rod. The parts of this nozzle are
a 1/2-in. tee, connected to the source of water supply; a plug, drilled
to snugly fit the 1/4-in. rod, and fitted into one end of the straight
part of the tee; and a 1/2-in. nipple of sufficient length to make the
dimension shown in the sketch. The nipple has a long thread to receive two
1/2-in. locknuts, which clamp the nozzle to the sheet-metal covering, as
shown in Fig. 1.
[Illustration: Details of the Water Wheel (Fig. 1)]
The buckets, Fig. 3, are formed of some easily melted, but not too soft
metal alloy which can be cast in plaster molds. They are attached with
rivets to the circumference of 1/16-in. thick sheet-metal disk of the
diameter given in Fig. 1. This disk is fastened to a 1/4-in. shaft, 6 in.
long, with two collars, one on each side of the disk, both being riveted
to the disk and pinned to the shaft. The bearings AA are made of 3/4-in.
pipe, each 2-1/4 in. long. Long threads are cut on these to turn through
the two 3/4-in. waste nuts BB, which provides a way to adjust the buckets
centrally with the stream of water, and to take up any side motion. The
pipe is babbitted and drilled for oil holes. The runner or wheel must
be well balanced, as the speed will be from 2,000 to 2,500 revolutions
per minute with ordinary city pressure. In balancing the wheel, instead
of adding an extra weight, a part of the disk is filed out on one edge.
The inclosing sides are made of wood--cypress preferred--having the
dimensions given, and two 7/8 by 1-1/2-in. pieces are attached to the
bottom outside surfaces for mounting the wheel. The curved part is covered
with galvanized sheet metal.
[Illustration: (Fig. 2, Fig. 3)]
The drawing shows a wheel of small diameter, but having considerable
power. Greater power may be obtained by increasing the size of the jet
and the diameter of the wheel, but the use of too many buckets results in
decrease of power. One bucket should be just entering the stream of water,
when the working bucket is at a point at right angles to the stream. The
water should divide equally exactly on the center of the bucket and get
out of the way as soon as possible. Any stagnant water in the case, or
dead water in the bucket, is detrimental to the power. A free exit for
the water is made at the bottom of the case, as shown.
[Illustration: Metal Casing Instead of Wood (Fig. 4)]
The construction of the case may be varied and, instead of wood, metal
sides and frame may be used. Where the builder cares to make a more
substantial wheel and has access to a foundry, the metal parts can be made
as shown in Fig. 4. The parts are in this instance fastened together with
machine screws. Patterns are made and taken to a foundry for the castings,
which are then machined to have close fitting joints.--Contributed by R.
H. Franklin, Unnatosa, Wis.
An Interesting Experiment
Take an ordinary board, 2 or 3 ft. long, such as a bread board, and place
it on the table so that about one-third of its length will project over
the edge. Unfold a newspaper and lay it on the table over the board as
shown in the sketch. Anyone not familiar with the experiment would suppose
the board could be knocked off by hitting it on the outer end. It would
appear to be easy to do, but try it. Unless you are prepared to break the
board you will probably not be able to knock the board off.
[Illustration: Striking the Board]
The reason is that when the board is struck it forces the other end up
and the newspaper along with it. This causes a momentary vacuum to be
formed under the paper, and the pressure of the air above, which is about
15 lb. to the square inch, prevents the board from coming up. This is an
entertaining trick to play at an evening party, and also makes a simple
and interesting school experiment.
Ironing-Board Holder
An ironing board that had been used on two chairs was cut off square on
one end and a piece of heavy sheet metal cut and bent into the shape shown
in Fig. 1. The square end of the board was fitted into the socket formed
by the sheet metal. After attaching the socket to the wall with screws the
board was easily put in place as shown in Fig. 2. The brace is hinged to
the under side of the board.--Contributed by L. G. Swett, Rochester, N. Y.
[Illustration: Socket and Manner of Holding Board (Fig. 1, Fig. 2)]
How to Make a Water Motor By Edward Silja
After making several different styles of water motors I found the one
illustrated to be the most powerful as well as the simplest and most
inexpensive to make. It can be constructed in the following manner: A
disk, as shown in Fig. 1, cut from sheet iron or brass, 1/16 in. thick
and 9-3/4 in. in diameter, constitutes the main part of the wheel. The
circumference is divided into 24 equal parts, and a depth line marked
which is 8-1/4 in. in diameter. Notches are cut to the depth line, similar
to the teeth of a rip saw, one edge being on a line with the center of
the wheel and the other running from the top of one tooth to the base of
the preceding tooth.
[Illustration: Metal Disk with a Saw-Tooth Circumference That Constitutes
the Main Body of the Wheel (Fig. 1)]
A 1/4-in. hole is drilled in the center of the disk and the metal
strengthened with a flange, placed on each side of the disk and fastened
with screws or rivets. A 1/4-in. steel rod is used for the shaft.
The cups, or buckets, are shaped in a die which can be cast or built up
of two pieces, as desired. Both of these dies are shown in Fig. 2. The
one at A is made of two pieces riveted together.
[Illustration: Two Ways of Making the Dies to Shape the Sheet-Metal Water
Cups (Fig. 2)]
If a foundry is near, a pattern can be made for a casting, as shown at B.
The die is used in the manner shown in Fig. 3. A strip of galvanized metal
is placed over the depressions in the die and a ball-peen hammer used to
drive the metal into the die. Cups, or buckets, are thus formed which are
soldered to the edge of the teeth on a line with the center of the disk,
as shown in Fig. 4. As there are 24 notches in the disk, 24 cups will be
necessary to fill them.
[Illustration: The Sheet Metal is Placed on the Die and Then Hammered into
Shape (Fig. 3)]
The cups are made in pairs or in two sections, which is a better
construction than the single cup. The water from the nozzle first strikes
the center between the cups, then divides and produces a double force.
[Illustration: The Water Cups are Fastened to the Teeth on the Metal Disk
with Solder (Fig. 4)]
When this part of the work is finished it is well to balance the wheel,
which can be done by filing off some of the metal on the heavy side
or adding a little solder to the light side. This will be necessary to
provide an easy-running wheel that will not cause any unnecessary wear on
the bearings.
The housing for the wheel consists of two wood pieces, about 3/4-in. thick
and cut to the shape shown in Fig. 5. Grooves are cut in one surface of
each piece, to receive the edges of a strip of galvanized metal, as shown
at A. The grooves are cut with a specially constructed saw, shown in Fig.
6. It consists of a piece of wood, 6 in. long, 1-1/2 in. wide and 1/2 in.
thick, the end being cut on an arc of a circle whose diameter is 10 in. A
piece of a broken hacksaw blade is fastened with screws to the curved end.
A nail is used as a center pivot, forming a 5-in. and a 5-3/4-in. radius
to swing the saw on in cutting the groove. After inserting the strip of
galvanized metal, A, Fig. 5, the sides are clamped together with bolts
about 3-1/4 in. long.
[Illustration: The Housing for the Wheel with a Connection to Attach the
Motor on an Ordinary Faucet (Fig. 5)]
[Illustration: Construction of the Saw for Making the Groove to Receive
the Metal Strip in the Sides (Fig. 6)]
A piece of pipe, B, Fig. 5, having an opening 3/8-in. in diameter, is
soldered onto the metal strip A. An ordinary garden-hose coupling, C, is
soldered to the end of the pipe.
A bearing, D, shaped as shown, is fastened to one of the wood sides with
screws, the wheel shaft is run into it, and the parts assembled. A wheel,
either grooved or flat, 2-1/2 or 3 in. in diameter, is placed on the
shaft. The hose coupling makes it easy to connect the motor directly to
the water faucet.
An Application for Small Wounds
Pure wintergreen oil makes a good local application for all small wounds,
bites, scratches, abrasions, etc. There is no germ or microbe, animal or
vegetable, dead or living, that can withstand this oil, and at the same
time it is not injurious to living tissues. A few drops gently rubbed in
where there is apt to be any infection is sufficient.
An infection always follows the wound of a bullet or the scratch of a
brass pin, with irritation extending up the limb or part threatening
tetanus or lockjaw. These symptoms are manifested by spasmodic pains which
shoot upward, but are quickly subdued, if the oil is applied along the
track of the pain or infection. This oil is equally effective when locally
applied to tendons or ligaments which have been unduly strained.
An ounce of the pure oil does not cost much, and it should be kept in
every shop and household. If 5 or 10 per cent of olive oil is added to it,
the oil will have more body and will last longer.--Contributed by Dr. E.
R. Ellis, Detroit, Mich.
Cores for Use in Babbitt Metal
It is often necessary in making things of babbitt metal to core out some
of the parts. A very good core is made of common salt and glue. Mix just
enough of the glue into the salt to make a stiff paste, which is then
formed into the desired shape or molded in a core box and allowed to
harden. This kind of a core can be removed from the casting by soaking
it in warm water, which will dissolve the salt and leave the desired
hole.--Contributed by H. F. Hopkins, N. Girard, Pa.
How to Build a Wind Vane with an Electric Indicator
Quite often it is practically impossible to ascertain the direction of
the wind by observing an ordinary wind vane on account of the necessity
of locating the vane at such a height that it may give a true indication.
By means of the device shown in Fig. 2, the position of the vane may be
determined without actually looking at the vane itself and the indicating
device may be located almost anywhere and independently of the position
of the wind vane.
[Illustration: Fig. 1--The Diagram of a Wheatstone Bridge Which Shows the
Points of Contact So Placed That a Balance is Obtained]
The principle upon which the device operates is that of the Wheatstone
bridge. The position of the moving contact A, Fig. 1, is controlled by
the wind vane. This contact is made to move over a specially constructed
resistance R, Fig. 2. A second movable contact, B, is controlled by the
observer and moves over a second resistance, identical with that over
which the contact A moves. These two resistances are connected so as to
form the two main branches of a Wheatstone bridge; the points A and B are
connected to the current-detecting device, which may be a galvanometer or
telephone receiver, and current is supplied by a number of dry cells.
[Illustration: Fig. 2--The Weather Vane with Resistance Coil, and Diagram
of Indicator Which is Identical with That of the Vane]
In order to obtain a balance--that is, no current through the
receiver--the points A and B must occupy corresponding positions on their
respective resistances. If the two resistances over which the points A
and B move are mounted in the same position with respect to the cardinal
points of the compass, then the points themselves will always be in
the same position with respect to the cardinal points when a balance
is obtained. The arrow head on the wind vane and the point A are made
to occupy corresponding positions, and hence the position of the point
B, when no current passes through the receiver, is an indication of the
direction in which the wind vane is pointing.
The principal parts in the construction of the device are shown in the
illustration, and the following description of their construction may be
of interest to those who contemplate building the indicator.
Procure two pieces of 1/16-in. hard rubber, 1-1/2 in. wide by 24 in.
long. Clamp these, side by side, between two boards and smooth down their
edges and ends, and then file small slots in the edges with the edge of
a three-cornered file. These slots should all be equally spaced about
3/32 in. apart. Have the pieces clamped together while filing the slots
and mark one edge top and one end right so that the pieces may be mounted
alike. Now procure a small quantity of No. 20 gauge bare manganin wire.
Fasten one end of this wire to one end of the pieces of rubber by winding
it in and out through three or four small holes and then wind it around
the piece, placing the various turns in the small slots that were filed
in the edges. After completing the winding, fasten the end just as the
starting end was attached. Wind the second piece of rubber in a similar
manner and make sure to have the length of the free ends in each case
the same. Obtain a cylinder of some kind, about 8 in. in diameter, warm
the pieces of rubber by dipping them in hot water, bend them around the
cylinder and allow them to cool.
A containing case, similar to that shown in cross section in the upper
portion of Fig. 2 should now be constructed from a good quality of tin or
copper. The inside diameter of this case should be about 1 in. more than
the outside diameter of the resistance ring R, and it should be about
3 in. deep. The top C may be made curved as shown in the illustration, and
should be fastened to the case proper by a number of small machine screws.
The base of this case may be made so that the whole device can be mounted
on the top of a pole.
Mount a piece of 1/4-in. steel rod, about 1/2 in. long, with a conical
hole in one end, in the center of the bottom of the case as shown by M.
A number of supports, similar to the one shown, should be made from some
1/4-in. hard rubber and fastened to the sides of the case, to support the
resistance ring. The dimensions of these supports should be such that the
ends of the piece of rubber, forming the ring, are against each other when
it is in place. The upper edge of the ring should be about 2 in. above
the bottom of the case.
Next, mount a piece of brass tube, D, in the exact center of the top and
perpendicular to it. A washer, E, may also be soldered to the top so as
to aid in holding the tube. Procure a piece of steel rod, F, that will
fit in the tube D and turn freely. Sharpen one end of this rod and mount
a brass wind vane on the other end. A small metal cup, G, may be soldered
to a washer, H, and the whole mounted on the steel rod F in an inverted
position as shown, which will prevent water from getting down inside the
case along the rod. The cup G may be soldered directly to the rod. Make a
small arm, J, of brass, and fasten a piece of light spring, K, to one side
of it, near the outer end, then mount the arm on the steel rod so that it
is parallel to the vane and its outer end points in the same direction
as the arrow on the vane. The free end of the light spring on the arm J
should be broad enough to bridge the gap between adjacent turns of wire on
the resistance ring. Four bindings should then be mounted on the inside
of the case and all insulated from it with the exception of number 1.
Numbers 2 and 3 are connected to the ends of the winding and number 4 is
connected to number 3.
A second outfit should now be constructed, identical with the one just
described except that it should have a flat top with a circular scale
mounted on it, and the arm L should be controlled by a small handle in
the center of the scale. The position of the contact B may be indicated
on the scale by a slender pointer, attached to the handle controlling the
arm L.
Four leads of equal resistance should be used in connecting the two
devices and the connections made as shown. An ordinary buzzer placed in
the battery circuit will produce an interrupted current through the bridge
circuit and a balance will be obtained by adjusting the contact point B
until a minimum hum is heard in the telephone receiver.
[Illustration]
Planting Seeds in Egg Shells
When growing flower plants from seeds, start them in halves of shells
from hard-boiled eggs. When the time comes to transplant them, they can be
easily removed by allowing the dirt in the shell to become hard and then
breaking off the shell, whereupon the plant is placed in the ground.
A pasteboard box provided with holes large enough to support the egg
shells can be used to hold them, unless egg crates are at hand. Two large
seeds such as nasturtiums and sweet peas can be planted in one shell, and
four seeds of the smaller varieties.--Contributed by Katharine D. Morse,
Syracuse, N. Y.
Locating Drip Pan under a Refrigerator
In replacing the drip pan of an ice box or refrigerator it is often
necessary to bend over in locating it under the drip pipe. This trouble
may be done away with by fastening two strips of wood in a V-shape to the
floor beneath the refrigerator. When the pan is shoved under, it will
strike one strip and slide along until it strikes the other. Then the
pan is sure to be under the drip pipe.--Contributed by Lloyd A. Phelan,
Beachmont, Mass.
[Illustration: Strips on Floor under Refrigerator]
Windmill for Light Power
The windmill shown in the sketch is one that will always face the wind,
and it never requires adjustment. It consists of a vertical shaft, A,
provided with a number of arms, B, on which are hinged square sails, C.
These sails are preferably made of wood frames covered with canvas. They
are provided with hinges, D, attached to the ends of the arms in such
a way that they offer resistance to the wind on one side of the wheel,
while they move edgewise against the wind on the other side, as shown. The
shaft of the mill can either be run in bearings set on an upright post,
the lower end of the shaft turning on a conical bearing, or collars may be
used on the bearings to keep it in position. The power can be transmitted
with gears or by a flat belt over a pulley.
[Illustration: Frames Hinged to the Arms]
A wheel of this kind is not adapted for high speed, but direct-connected
to a pump or other slow-working machinery will prove very
efficient.--Contributed by Edward Hanson, Kane, Pennsylvania.
A Small Bunsen Burner
[Illustration]
An excellent bunsen burner for small work can be made as follows: Draw
a glass tube to the shape shown, to produce a fine hollow point. Mark
carefully with a file and break at A and then at B. Bore or burn a hole
in a cork to fit the tube. Cut a V-shaped notch in the side of the cork
extending to the hole. Bend the lower tube at right angles and insert
it in a wood block, previously slotted with a saw to make a snug fit. A
little glue will hold the glass tubes, cork and base together. The air
mixture can be adjusted by sliding the upper tube before the glue sets.
The burner is especially adapted to continuous work, such as sealing
packages, etc. The flame will not discolor the wax.--Contributed by E. P.
Fert, Spokane, Wash.
The Hindoo Sand Trick
This is one of the many tricks for which the Hindoos are famous, and
was long kept a secret by them. It consists of placing ordinary sand
in a basin full of water, stirring the water and taking out the sand in
handfuls perfectly dry. It need scarcely be said that without previous
preparation, it is impossible to do so.
Take 2 lb. of fine silver sand, place it in a frying pan and heat well
over a clear fire. When the sand is thoroughly heated, place a small piece
of grease or wax--the composition of a paraffin candle preferred--in the
sand, stirring it well to get it thoroughly mixed, then allow the sand to
cool. When this sand is placed in a basin of water, it will be apparently
dry when taken out. It is very important that only a small portion of the
adherent be used so that it cannot be detected when the sand is examined
by the audience. The explanation is that the grease or wax coating on each
sand particle repels the water.--Contributed by Mighty Oaks, Oshkosh, Wis.
A Kite-Line Cutaway for Toy Parachutes
The cutaway is made of a small piece of board, a cigar-box lid, an old
yardstick or a piece of lath, which should be about 6 in. long. Common
carpet wire staples are used to hold it on the string. The under side has
a wire bent into such a shape as to form a loop at the forward end over
the kite string, then running back through the two staples at the one side
and through two staples at the other side.
[Illustration: Wires Attached to the Traveler]
The parachute should have a small wire ring fastened at the weight end
so as to fasten in the carrier, and should be put between the two staples
that are closest together on the under side of the carrier. A small nail
or button--anything larger than the loop in the wire--should be attached
to the kite string a few feet from the kite. When the parachute is
carried up the kite string, the knob on the string will strike the loop
of the wire on the carrier, which releases the parachute and allows it to
drop. The carrier will return of its own weight to the lower end of the
string.--Contributed by I. O. Lansing, Lincoln, Neb.
A Cherry Pitter
Procure an ordinary quill feather and cut the tip off to form a small
hole. Do not remove so much of the end that the cherry stone can stick
in it. The hole must be slightly smaller than the cherry stone. Push
the quill through the center of the cherry and the stone will come out
easily.--Contributed by Harold Wynning, Chicago, Ill.
To Hold a Fish while Removing the Scales
Insert a screwdriver or ice pick in a fish as shown, and the scales can be
removed much better and quicker than in any other way. The handle of the
screwdriver affords an efficient grip so that the fish can be held firmly
on the board and every scale can be removed.
[Illustration: Holding Fish for Scaling]
Carrying Stone Jars
The handholds on stone jars are usually not large enough to carry the
jars safely when they are full. If the handles of an old galvanized tub
are riveted to a leather strap long enough to reach under the bottom and
almost to the top on each side, the jar can be handled without danger of
being dropped. The fingers are placed in the handles to carry the weight,
while the thumbs are used to keep the jar from tipping. By placing a
buckle near one end, the strap may be used for carrying a jar of any
size.--Contributed by C. H. Floyd, Elwood, Ind.
Vibrator for a Spark Coil
If you do not have the time to make a vibrator or electrolytic interrupter
for a spark coil, a common electric door-bell makes a good substitute.
Connect one of the primary wires to the binding-post of the bell that is
not insulated from the frame, and the other primary wire to the adjusting
screw on the make-and-break contact of the bell, as shown in the sketch.
The connections are made from the batteries to the bell in the usual
manner.--Contributed by Ralph Tarshis, Brooklyn, N. Y.
[Illustration: Bell Used as Vibrator]
Head Rest for a Chair
While seated in a chair a person very often desires to lay the head back
in resting. A support for the head is lacking in the low-back rockers and
ordinary chairs. A detachable, padded support can be easily made at home
for placing on any low-back chair and used as a head rest.
[Illustration: Rest on Chair Back]
The support standards can be made of wood or metal as desired. If metal
is used, the rest will have some springiness, which combined with the
pad will insure much greater comfort than the hard rigid back. A cloth
or paper is placed over the back of the chair to prevent marring of the
varnish or wood.
Lighting a Lawn Mower for Use at Night
[Illustration]
Those who desire to do so, or must, for lack of time during the day, may
use their lawn mower at night and light the front of their machine with
an ordinary bicycle lamp. The arm to hold the lamp can be attached with
screws to the handle as shown in the sketch. It is easily made from a
piece of hoop or bar iron.--Contributed by Samuel F. Reid, Minneapolis,
Minn.
Tying a Rosette in a Couch-Cover Corner
In the accompanying illustration is shown a very simple method of tying
a rosette in the corner of a couch cover. The use of the average couch
cover as a throw-over leaves a large corner which drags upon the floor. To
dispose of this extra length and at the same time make an artistic corner,
the Upholsterer suggests the following method:
[Illustration: Different Stages in Tying the Rosette (Fig. 1, Fig. 2)]
Spread the couch cover on the couch so that the surplus is evenly divided
between the sides and ends, and pass a pin through the cover to show each
corner as in Fig. 1. Measure the distance from each corner of the couch
to the floor, Fig. 2, and measuring from the point of the corner, mark
the same distance by the insertion of another pin, repeating in all four
corners. The distance between the two pins at each corner now defines the
amount of surplus that is to be taken up. Chalk a circle to include the
portion between these two pins, as shown in Fig. 3, and with a circular
needle and stout stitching twine run a shirring thread around the circle,
and when this is drawn tightly and tied, the surplus is formed into a
rosette, while the corner may be draped into an artistic cascade, as shown
in Fig. 4.
[Illustration: (Fig. 3, Fig. 4)]
Driving Screws
[Illustration]
A wood screw having the threads hammered flat on two sides can be easily
driven in with the flattened sides parallel to the grain of the wood. When
the screw is turned a quarter turn the remaining threads cross the grain
and hold as well as if they had been turned in all the way. This is an
especial advantage where something is wanted which is easily inserted and
will hold better than a nail.--Contributed by P. D. Merrill, Chicago.
[Illustration]
A Power Windmill
The windmill shown is somewhat different from the ordinary kind. It is
not a toy, nor does it approach in size the ordinary farm windmill, but
is a compromise between the two, and in a good strong wind, will supply
power enough to run a washing machine, a small dynamo, an emery wheel, or
any other device used in the home workshop. The wheel is about 5 ft. in
diameter, with eight blades. The over-all length is about 6 feet.
The windmill is easily made and the cost is within the means of the
average boy. There is not a part used in its construction that cannot be
found about an ordinary manual-training shop. The most difficult parts
of the construction will be described in detail. Symmetry and smoothness
of design should be preserved and the parts made as light as possible
consistent with strength and durability.
[Illustration: The Hub Consists of Two Parts, Each Having Four Arms for
Holding the Blades (Fig. 1)]
The Wheel
As shown in the drawings, the wheel has eight blades. Ordinarily the
use of eight blades makes it difficult to construct a hub of sufficient
strength to carry them. Where so many blades radiate from a common center
it is almost impossible to provide an anchorage for each blade. To provide
a maximum of strength coupled with simplicity of design, the plan of using
two hubs of four arms each was adopted in the construction of this mill.
The ordinary hub of four arms is simple to make and quite strong. Four
pieces of straight-grained oak, each 16 in. long and 1-7/8 in. square, are
used in constructing the hubs. The manner of notching each pair of pieces
together is shown in Fig. 1. The slope for the blades is made to run in
opposite directions on the ends of each crosspiece. The slope is formed
by cutting out a triangular piece, as shown.
[Illustration: (Fig. 2)]
The two hubs, thus formed, are mounted on the shaft, one behind the other,
in such positions that the arms will be evenly divided for space in the
wheel circle. These details are shown in Fig. 2. The blades, Fig. 3, are
made of thin basswood or hard maple, and each is fastened in its place by
means of two 3/8-in. bolts, in addition to which a few brads are driven
in to prevent the thin blades from warping.
[Illustration: (Fig. 3)]
The Gears
This windmill was designed to transmit power by means of shafts and gear
wheels, rather than with cranks and reciprocating pump rods, such as
are used on ordinary farm mills. To obtain this result, an old sewing
machine head was used. Such a part can be obtained from a junk dealer or
a sewing-machine agent. The head is stripped of its base plate with the
shuttle gearing; likewise the needle rod, presser foot, etc., are taken
from the front end of the head along with the faceplate. The horizontal
shaft and gear wheel are taken out and the bearings reamed out for a
1/2-in. shaft, which is substituted. The shaft should be 2 ft. in length,
and 8 or 10 in. of its outer end threaded for the clamping nuts which hold
the two hubs in place, as shown at A and B, Fig. 2. The gear wheel is also
bored out and remounted on the new shaft.
[Illustration: The Supporting Standard Holds the Machine Head with the
Wheel and the Vane on an Axis (Fig. 4)]
The supporting standard is constructed of oak, with mortise-and-tenon
joints, as shown in Fig. 4. The width of the pieces will depend on the
kind of sewing-machine head used. It may be necessary also to slightly
change the dimensions. The machine head is fastened on the support with
bolts. A sleeve and thrust spring are mounted on the shaft, as shown. The
sleeve is made of brass tubing, of a size to fit snugly on the shaft.
A cotter will keep it in place. The sleeve serves as a collar for the
thrust spring, which is placed between the sleeve and the standard. This
arrangement acts as a buffer to take up the end thrust on the shaft caused
by the varying pressure of the wind on the wheel.
[Illustration: (Fig. 5)]
The Vane
To keep the wheel facing the wind at all times, a vane must be provided.
It is made of basswood or hard maple, as shown in Fig. 5. It is not built
up solid, air spaces being left between the slats to reduce the wind
resistance. Unless built in this manner, the vane is liable to twist off
in a gale. The horizontal slats are 1/4 in. thick, and the upright and
cross braces 3/8 in. thick, while the long arm connecting the vane to the
supporting standard is 1/2 in. thick.
The supporting standard, carrying the wheel and the vane, must revolve
about a vertical axis with the changes in the wind, and this vertical
axis is supplied in the form of a piece of gas pipe which runs through
the supporting standard at the points marked C and D, Fig. 4. Ordinary
pipe fittings, called flanges, are bolted to the frame at these points.
The coupling in the gas pipe beneath the supporting standard serves as a
stationary collar to support the weight of the whole mill. The vane should
be placed correctly to balance the weight of the wheel.
The shaft passes through the framework of the mill on the inside of
the pipe, as shown at E. A 3/8-in. soft-steel or wrought-iron rod is
satisfactory for the shaft, as no weight is supported by it and only a
twisting force is transmitted. The use of a larger rod makes the mill
cumbersome and unwieldy. The upper end of the shaft is fastened to the
shaft that projects from the under side of the machine head by means of
a sleeve made of a piece of 3/8-in. pipe. Two cotters hold the shafts and
sleeve together.
[Illustration: The Lower End of the Shaft has a Horizontal Shaft Geared
to It for the Drive Pulleys (Fig. 6)]
At the lower end of the shaft, inside the workshop, the device shown
in Fig. 6 is installed. The purpose of this appliance is to provide a
horizontal shaft upon which pulleys or driving gears may be mounted.
The device is constructed of another sewing-machine head similar to the
one already described. The head is cut in two and the separate parts
mounted on suitable supports. The gap between the sawed portions permits a
pulley to be fastened on the shaft to serve as the main drive. The wheel
propelled by the treadle of the sewing machine will make a good drive
wheel. The small handwheel, originally mounted on the machine-head shaft,
is left intact. This arrangement gives two sizes of drive wheels. Heavy
sewing-machine belts will serve to transmit the power.
The Tower
The tower can be built up in any manner to suit the conditions. Ordinarily
sticks, 2 in. square, are suitable. These are well braced with wire and
fastened securely to the roof of the shop. The arrangement of the tower
with the mill is shown in Fig. 7.
[Illustration: the Manner of Building the Tower on Which the Supporting
Standard Revolves (Fig. 7)]
Telegraph Code on Typewriter Keys
A very simple and practical method of transcribing wireless time and
other messages on the typewriter without having such perfect knowledge
of the Morse system as to be able to immediately translate it into the
common alphabet is the following: The characters of the Morse system
are inscribed on small slips of paper--thus, three dots (...), for the
letter S; two dashes (--), for the letter M, etc.--and these slips are
pasted on the corresponding keys of the typewriter. The operator puts on
his receiver, and the proper key is struck as he hears the corresponding
Morse letter. As there are no capitals, spacing between words, or even
punctuation, the manipulation of the typewriter is much simplified, and
it is easily learned to record the signals as fast as they are heard.
An Aid in Sketching Profiles
The means usually employed by most beginners to obtain the correct outline
of an object, such as tracing or a pantograph, make them dependent on
mechanical help rather than train the eye to form and proportion a drawing
correctly. The device shown not only greatly assists the beginner, but
actually trains him toward a point where he can dispense with any such
device and correctly sketch by free hand. It also has the effect of
encouraging the beginner, because his first efforts will not be complete
failures, as is usually the case.
[Illustration: The Fine Wire is Bent as Near as Possible to the Outline
of the Object]
The device consists of a rather fine wire bent in the shape of a human
profile and supported on a stand or base. The stand may be dispensed with,
however, and the wire held in the hand. In use, it is placed near the
model or person whose profile is to be drawn; then, after closing one eye,
it is set at a position where it will correspond to the features of the
model. This enables one to note the variations between the wire and the
model's features. For instance, the forehead may recede from the wire at
the top, or the nose may have a different slant or shape.
The paper on which the drawing is to be made should have a faint outline
drawn by laying the wire upon it and marking around it with a soft pencil.
Having noted the variations between the wire and the features, proceed
to draw the profile, observing the same variations, and when the sketch
is completed, erase the faint outlines. Then compare the drawing with the
model without using the wire, and make final corrections. The dotted line
indicates the outline to be erased.
The drawing may be made larger or smaller than the bent wire, but the
outline on the paper must be kept in exactly the same proportion. It
is not necessary that the wire be bent so that it represents perfect
features. With the use of this device one forms a habit of comparing
and proportioning, which applies to the correct sketching of all
objects.--Contributed by Will L. Burner, Columbus, Ohio.
A Small Hydroelectric-Power Plant
Wherever a water pressure of over 30 lb. is available a small
hydroelectric-power plant will produce sufficient electric current for
any light work, such as charging storage batteries, operating sewing and
washing machines, toys, etc. The design is for a 6-in. hydraulic motor
of the Pelton type, which will operate well on almost all city-water
pressures, and at 80 lb. will drive a 100-watt generator to its full
output.
The castings may be procured from any foundry cheaply, so that these parts
need not trouble the builder. The patterns can be constructed easily and
are not so complicated that they will tear the molds when being removed.
They are made from well seasoned white pine, 1/4 in. thick. Fill in all
sharp corners with small fillets. All the patterns should taper slightly
from the parting line.
[Illustration: Layout for the Casing, Cover and Wheel for the Construction
of a Hydraulic Motor That will Drive a Small Dynamo, to Produce Current
for Experimental Purposes, to Charge Storage Cells or to Run Electric Toys
(Fig. 1)]
The motor casing is shown in Fig. 1. It is made with a wide flange so
that the cover plate can be bolted to it. The lug A is to give additional
strength and thickness to the side so that it may be drilled and tapped
for the nozzle. The legs B and C are for bolting the case to a base or
support. The outlet pipe is of lead, 1-3/4 in. outside diameter, and the
hole for it in the case can be either drilled or cored. Solder the pipe
flush with the inside of the casing. Drill and tap the holes around the
flange for 8,32 bolts. The shaft hole must be drilled very carefully.
Drill 1/4-in. holes in the feet. The oil holes are 1/8 in. in diameter.
File the surface of the flange smooth and also the inside shoulder of the
bearing lug. Drill and tap the nozzle hole for a 3/4-in. pipe thread.
[Illustration: (Fig. 2)]
The cover plate is shown in Fig. 2, This is bolted to the casing with
8,32 brass bolts, 1/2 in. long. The holes for them are drilled 3/16 in. in
diameter. A shallow hole, for the end of the shaft to fit in, is drilled
in the lug, as shown. It does not pass all the way through the plate. File
the inside face of the lug smooth and also the edge of the plate where it
joins the casing.
[Illustration: (Fig. 3)]
The wheel, with brackets attached, is shown in Fig. 3. This style of wheel
need not be followed out closely. Bore the hub centrally for a 1/4-in.
shaft and fit in two setscrews. Drill and tap the rim for the buckets with
a 1/4-in. standard tap. The buckets must be evenly spaced and bolted on
to make the wheel balance.
[Illustration: The Best Shape of the Buckets to Take Up the Force of the
Water (Fig. 4)]
The buckets are shown in Fig. 4. They may be cast from iron or babbitt.
The sharp ridge in the center provides for a deviation of the water jet
as it flows on the bucket. The ridge divides the bucket into two equal
lobes which turn each division of the jet through almost 180 deg., using
all the kinetic energy in the jet. This is shown at D. The dividing ridge
must lie in the plane of the revolution, so that each bucket will enter
the center of the jet. The buckets being evenly spaced on the periphery
of the wheel, only one at a time receives the force of the jet, the one
in front and the one behind clearing the jet.
[Illustration: (Fig. 5)]
The nozzle is shown in Fig. 5. It can be made of iron or brass. The inside
gradually tapers from 3/4 to 3/16 in. It has a 3/4-in. pipe thread and is
screwed into the hole in the case from the inside and is secured with a
lock nut. Enough additional threaded portion is left protruding to allow
the supply pipe to be connected.
When assembling the motor, fasten the wheel to the shaft with the two
setscrews, and place a metal washer, E, on each side of the wheel. Place
the wheel in the casing and screw the cover plate in place. A thin rubber
gasket should be placed between the cover and the casing to provide a
water-tight joint.
[Illustration: The Motor as It is Coupled to Drive the Dynamo, and the
Water Connections (Fig. 6)]
The general arrangement of the plant is shown in Fig. 6. The motor and
dynamo are mounted on a heavy wood base, which in turn is firmly bolted
to a concrete foundation. Level up the two machines by the use of thin
washers on the bolts between the base and machine. A heavy sleeve and
setscrews are used to connect the two shafts. The connection to the water
supply is made with 3/4-in. pipe, with a globe valve in it to regulate
the flow of water. Any dynamo of about 100-watt output can be used.
Paper Shades for Electric-Light Globes
The appearance of an electric-light globe can be very prettily improved
by making a shade of crêpe paper of any desired color for each one.
Canary-colored crêpe produces a soft, mellow effect. Pale blue, yellow,
red and, in fact, all the colors can be used, making a very pleasing
variety.
[Illustration: Two Pieces of Crêpe Paper Stitched Together and Ruffled,
to Make a Fancy Electric-Light Shade]
The body of the shade is made of a piece of paper about 5-1/2 in. wide
and 3-1/2 ft. long. The width will vary with the length of the globe to
be covered, and it is best to have it full, as the edge can be trimmed
even with the lower end of the globe afterward. Another piece of the same
color is cut 2-1/2 in. wide and of the same length. This piece makes the
ruffle.
The smaller piece is placed on the larger centrally, and both are stitched
together with a running stitch, using a needle and cotton thread. A plain
running stitch is also made 1/4 in. from one edge of the larger strip. The
material is gathered along both threads. This operation makes the material
shrink in length. Wrap it around the globe, pulling the threads taut so
that the ends of the paper will just meet. Tie the threads and clip off
the extending ends. If the paper extends beyond the end of the globe,
trim it off with the shears. Ruffle the two edges of the narrow strip and
the lower edge of the larger one. This operation is simply stretching the
edge of the crêpe to cause it to stand out.--Contributed by Jas. A. Hart,
Philadelphia, Pa.
Renewing the Markings on Graduates
Graduates that have been in use a long time, especially for measuring
alkalies, become unreadable. The graduations are easily restored in
the following manner: Moisten a small piece of absorbent cotton with a
solution of white shellac, cut in alcohol. Rub this well into all the
etched parts and allow to dry for about two minutes, then rub in a fine
whiting or litharge with an old toothbrush. If red is desired, use rouge;
if black is preferred, use lampblack or powdered graphite. When dry, wipe
off the excess pigment with a cloth moistened in alcohol.--Contributed by
A. C. Norris, Rockford, Ill.
Repairing a Broken Ball-Clasp Purse
[Illustration]
Having occasion to repair a purse of the ordinary ball-clasp kind where
one of the stems was broken off and lost, I first had some trouble in
finding a way to repair it. I started to take off the remaining stem in
an attempt to replace the locking device with another kind, and in bending
it down toward the opposite side, I happened to close the purse and found
that it locked just as well as if there had been two balls on it. I have
since repaired two other purses in the same manner and found that they
worked well.
The idea is to bend the remaining clasp over until it is low enough to
come in contact with and to spring over the other side, thus giving the
same snap and holding qualities as before.--Contributed by W. C. Loy,
Rochester, Ind.
Automatic Valve for a Funnel
[Illustration]
Where liquid is run through a funnel into an opaque bottle or earthen jug,
the filling cannot be watched, and if not watched constantly, the vessel
will overflow. This can be obviated by applying the automatic valve to the
funnel stem, as shown. A washer support is soldered or otherwise fastened
in the upper end of the stem, or at the base of the sloping part, and a
crossbar is fastened to its upper surface across the hole. The crossbar
is centrally drilled to receive a small rod or wire, to which is attached
a valve that will cover the hole in the washer. A cork is stuck on the
lower end of the rod. The location of the cork on the rod should be at
a point a little below the level to which the bottle or vessel is to be
filled.--Contributed by H. W. Hilton, Hopington, B. C.
Chisel Holder for Whetting
To obtain the proper slope and apply a fine cutting edge, the plane
iron or chisel must be held at the proper slope while grinding, and
especially so when whetting. The illustration shows a holder to keep the
iron or chisel at the proper slope. It consists of a block of wood with
a sloping cut at the right angle to make two pieces. One of these pieces
is permanently fastened to the strip at the back, while the other is
held with a bolt passing through a notch in the strip for adjusting or
clamping. The rear end of the back piece is fitted with a large screw hook
or L-hook to provide a slide to keep the rear end of the holder at the
right height. The iron or chisel is inserted between the sloping edges of
the blocks and clamped in place, then the L-screw is adjusted for height
to secure the proper angle on the stone. It is then only necessary to move
the block and tool back and forth over the stone.
[Illustration: The Tool Edge is Kept at the Proper Angle While It is Run
over the Stone]
A Large Hole in a Small Piece of Paper
It would seem impossible to cut a hole in a piece of paper, 2 in. wide
and 3 in. long, large enough to allow a person's body to pass through it,
but if carefully cut as shown by the lines in the sketch, one will find
with surprise that the paper can be extended so that the feat is easily
accomplished. Make the cuts about 1/8 in. apart and these will allow the
paper to expand several times its size.--Contributed by H. Martine Warner,
E. Orange, N. J.
[Illustration: The Slits Cut in the Paper Allow It to Expand Several Times
the Size of the Original]
Homemade Bunsen Burner
The amateur craftsman, at some time or other, needs a hot flame for
certain kinds of work, and a Bunsen or alcohol flame is brought into
service. The gasoline and alcohol flames have their drawbacks, one of
which is the starting of the burner and the waiting for the heat. They are
also unhandy in directing the flame on parts of the work. As I desired a
burner for quick work and one whose flame I could direct at any angle,
for repoussé and chasing on copper and silversmith's work, I made the
one shown in the sketch to attach to a hose and connected it with the
gas pipe of the illuminating system in the house. It consists of a hose
connection into which a piece of pipe, 5 in. long, is fitted. The hose
connection is also fitted with a small nozzle, A, for the gas, and the
pipe has an opening through it at the end of the nozzle.--Contributed by
John Koestner, Brooklyn, N. Y.
[Illustration: Bunsen-Burner Attachment for Use with Illuminating Gas
Taken from the House Mains]
Cane-Seat Cleaner
A rapid and practical method of removing stains and discolorations from
the cane seats of chairs, wickerwork, etc., is to use oxalic acid and
powdered pumice.
Dissolve oxalic-acid crystals in hot water and saturate a small stiff
brush in it, then dip the brush in the powdered pumice and rub the
discolored cane briskly with the brush.--Contributed by W. F. Jaquythe,
Richmond, California.
Shade-Roller and Curtain-Pole Bracket
The main advantage of this shade bracket is that a person can lower it
for adjusting the shade or in changing curtains while standing on the
floor, thus eliminating the use of a step ladder and the danger possibly
attending such use.
[Illustration: The Brackets as They are Attached to a Window Casing for
Lowering the Curtain Pole (Fig. 1, Fig. 2)]
The front elevation of a window with bracket attachment in position
is shown in Fig. 1, and a cross section in Fig. 2. The position of the
curtain pole when the brackets are lowered is shown by the dotted lines.
A detail sketch of the support end is given in Fig. 3 and one bracket is
shown in Fig. 4.
[Illustration: The Attachments, Supports and Brackets for Holding both
Curtain Pole and Shade Roller (Fig. 3, Fig. 4)]
The curtain pole A is fastened to the brackets B with 1/4-in. dowel pins,
C. These pins and the pole keep the brackets from spreading at the top,
so that a shade roller, D, may have its attachments fastened to the inner
sides of the brackets. A small pulley, E, is attached to the window casing
above the right bracket and a double pulley is located above the left,
cords being passed through them, down along the casing to a point within
easy reach, and fastened in any manner desired.
All that is necessary to change the curtains or fix a shade is to loosen
the cord and allow the brackets to drop down until they may be easily
reached.--Contributed by James F. Napier, Montreal, Can.
Planing Arrow Sticks
While making some bows one day I discovered I had no suitable dowel
sticks for the arrows, so I started to make them out of 1/4-in. square
stock. I found it rather difficult to plane these pieces until I hit
upon the scheme shown in the sketch. I procured a piece of ordinary
tongue-and-groove flooring and clamped it in the bench vise, then drove
a nail in the groove to act as a stop, and in no time I had the sticks
planed into arrows.--Contributed by J. F. Culverwell, Washington, District
of Columbia.
[Illustration: Planing the Corners from Square Stock by Placing Them in
the Groove of a Flooring Board]
To Clean Shellac from a Brush
Put the brush in a strong, warm solution of borax and water, and then wash
in clean, warm water. If the bristles have become hard, allow the brush
to remain in the solution until soft, keeping the solution warm in the
meantime; then wash it out in warm water.--Contributed by N. J. Shattuck,
Woburn, Mass.
Lathe Dogs
In the absence of a full equipment of lathe dogs the amateur can make them
cheaply from pieces of iron pipe. One of these is shown in the sketch. A
section of pipe, 1-1/2 in. to 3 in. long, is partly cut away, as shown,
leaving a projection of metal 1 in. wide. One or more setscrews are fitted
in the round part, and the dog is complete.
[Illustration: Two Forms of Lathe Dogs That are Quickly and Cheaply
Constructed]
A dog, or driver, may also be made of two U-clamps and two bolts as shown.
This is especially useful for large work, where the cost of a dog would be
prohibitive. After these two clamps are bolted on the work to be turned
a bolt is attached in the faceplate that bears against the clamp, thus
turning the work.
To Remove a Splinter from the Flesh
Quite frequently small particles of steel, splinters, or thorns are
run into the flesh and cannot be removed with the fingers. These can be
readily removed in the following manner: Press the eye of an ordinary
needle over the protruding end, then turn the needle until the edges bind
or clinch. While in this position, raise the needle and out comes the
splinter.
[Illustration: The Eye of a Needle Slipped over a Thorn for Removing It
from the Flesh]
* * * * *
A fine luster can be given to zinc by rubbing it with
kerosene or a weak solution of sulphuric acid.
Holders for Displaying Magazines
[Illustration]
Papers and magazines often are sold in drug stores where the display
space usually is limited, especially in the window. The method used by one
druggist gave space for the magazines in the window without interfering
with the other goods.
The back of the window was arranged with rows of hooks, three hooks
for each magazine, two at the top edges and one in the center at the
bottom. The magazine is easily slipped into these holders, and the whole
presents a tidy appearance. The hooks are the ordinary screwhooks that
can be obtained from a hardware or furniture store.--Contributed by T. F.
Monaghan, Philadelphia, Pa.
Waste-Paper Basket
[Illustration]
The covering of a broken demijohn was used in the manner shown as a
waste-paper basket. The glass was broken out and the covering soaked in
water, after which the splints were turned down and tied with a cord. This
I found to make a first-class waste-paper basket.--Contributed by A. S.
Thomas, Gordon, Canada.
Lettering Photographs
Amateur photographers often write, or print, the names of the subjects on
the mounts, or in the albums, with white ink or scratch it on the negative
so that it will print in the picture.
A very good method is to take ordinary black ink and do the lettering on
the sensitive paper before it is printed under the negative, being careful
not to scratch the paper. After printing the paper to the proper shade the
toning and fixing baths will wash away the ink and leave the lettering in
white.
The lettering is easily accomplished and a post card can be sent with
any message desired on any negative, the inscription being printed on the
paper so that the negative is unharmed for other printing.--Contributed
by Henry J. Marion, Pontiac, Mich.
A Stamp Moistener
[Illustration]
A handy stamp moistener and envelope sealer can be made by procuring a
small medicine bottle or glass vial and inserting a piece of felt or other
wicking material in the place of the stopper, and filling it with water.
This moistener will be found handy for a small office where the mail
is quite heavy, but not big enough to warrant the purchasing of a
sealing machine. This moistener is sanitary and replaces the wet
sponge.--Contributed by Theo. J. Becker, Kansas City, Mo.
A Window Lock
[Illustration]
A very neat window lock can be made of sheet steel, 1/2 in. wide. One
piece, shaped like a saw tooth, is fastened to the sash, and the other,
which is bent to form a catch over the tooth projection and ends in
a curved top for a finger hold, is attached to the window casing. The
illustration clearly shows how the lock is attached.--Contributed by Lee
B. Green, Cleveland, O.
* * * * *
Georgia pine should be filled with white shellac.
Varnished Candles Burn Longer
The heated tallow or wax of a candle runs down the sides and this results
in a considerable waste. This waste can be stopped by coating the new
candles with white varnish and laying them aside for a few days to harden.
The varnish will keep the melted tallow or wax from running away and it
is used in the wick.
Guides for a Mill File
Having a large number of wires to file true on the end I devised a way
to do this with the use of some old worn-out and discarded files that had
good cutting edges. A piece of sheet copper, about the same length as the
files, was bent to fit over one edge and both sides of the file, allowing
both edges to project about 1/4 in. This made a guide that prevented the
edge of the file from slipping off the end of the wire. The guide was
held in place on the file by cutting a slit in the projecting edges, about
1/4 in. from the end, and turning these separated parts back on the file.
[Illustration: Guide for Using the Edge of Worn-Out Files on Small Round
or Square Stock]
If such a guide is fitted tightly on a file, the edges of worn-out files
can be used for such work, and the file cannot slip off and mar the sides
of the work.--Contributed by A. R. Drury, Hampton, Ill.
A Simple Motion-Picture Machine
The drum A is a piece of wood, 1-3/4 in. long and 1-3/16 in. in diameter,
supported on the end of a round stick, B, which can be made in one piece
with the drum, if a wood lathe is at hand, but a piece cut from a curtain
pole and a lead pencil inserted in a hole bored in the end will answer
the purpose. Be sure to have the diameter of the drum 1-3/16 inches.
[Illustration: The Parts for Making the Revolving Drum for Holding the
Strip of Pictures]
Provide a base piece, C, 1/2 in. thick and 2 in. square, and fasten a
piece of cardboard having a slit E, as shown. The cardboard should be
2 in. wide and 2-1/2 in. high, the slit being cut 1/2 in. in width,
1/4 in. from the top and 3/4 in. from the bottom. A hole is bored in the
center of the block to admit the standard B easily.
The next step is to provide the picture and attach it to the drum. A
picture of a boy pounding cobblestones is shown in the sketch, at F,
which should be made on a strip of paper 4-3/8 in. long. This is glued
or attached with rubber bands to the drum. The drawing can be enlarged in
pen and ink, or can be reproduced as it is, if a hand camera is at hand,
and a print used on the drum.
[Illustration: The Different Positions of the Picture will Appear in
Action When Turning with the Drum]
It is only necessary to put the parts together, grasp the base in one hand
and turn the support B with the other, when, looking through the slot E,
the boy is seen pounding the stones. Various pictures can be made and the
strips changed.--Contributed by C. C. Fraser, Saginaw, Mich.
Substitute for Cleats on Boards
The necessity for using more than one cleat for fastening two boards
together may be done away with by using the device shown in the sketch.
The center cleat prevents the boards from buckling while the sides are
tightly held by these simple flat fasteners. The fasteners are made of tin
cut as indicated, slipped between the edges of the boards and the parts
bent over and tacked. Where the strain is not too great the holders may
be used without a cleat, making an effective flat fastening.--Contributed
by W. O. Nettleton, Washington, D. C.
[Illustration: The Metal Clips Hold the Edges of the Boards Together
Closely and Quite Rigidly]
Attaching Door Knobs to Locks
When putting a lock on a door it is often difficult to press the two knobs
together tightly enough to prevent them from rattling and still be able to
insert the screw into the shank. By using a piece of board, 1 in. thick,
6 in. wide and 1 ft. or more in length, with a V-shaped piece cut out of
one side, the knobs can be easily forced and held together while the screw
is inserted.--Contributed by H. Musgrave, Sidney, British Columbia.
[Illustration: The Sloping Edges in the Notch Forces the Knobs Together
and Holds Them While Inserting the Screws]
A Finger-Nail Buffer
The flywheel on a sewing machine is usually turned with a semicircular
face and this makes a good base on which to apply a piece of chamois skin
for use in buffing nails. A strip of the chamois is cut the length of the
wheel's circumference and small holes pierced in its edges, through which
strings are run to hold it to the rim of the wheel. The chamois can then
be removed or left on the wheel as desired. Run the machine and hold the
nail on the buffer. When there is a free wheel on the machine this makes
an excellent buffing device.
[Illustration: A Strip of Chamois Skin Attached to the Flywheel of a
Sewing Machine for a Buffer]
Grinding Chisel Edges
[Illustration]
A cold chisel ground with a rounding edge, as shown, will last twice as
long and do better work than one that is ground straight, because it will
not wedge, and the cutting edge, having a better support, will not chip
off.--Contributed by F. G. Marbach, Cleveland, O.
Reducing Amperage of a Fuse Wire
It is sometimes necessary to use an electrical fuse of smaller amperage
than those at hand, and for experimental work this is often the case. A
smaller amperage may be readily made from a larger-size wire by making
a nick in it with the cutting edge of pliers, or with a knife. The
illustration shows how to reduce the size of a 10-ampere fuse to make it
five amperes.--Contributed by Louis Litsky, Brooklyn, N. Y.
[Illustration: The Amperes of a Fuse Reduced by Making a Nick in the Lead
Wire]
Dip-Plating Process
The various ways of doing dip plating are practically the same method,
the coating fluid consisting of essentially the same materials.
The tank or crucible, as it may be called, consists of a piece of 3-in.
gas pipe, 9 in. long, threaded at both ends, one end being fitted with
a screw cap and the other with a pipe flange. This part is shown in Fig.
1. A piece of sheet metal is cut in the shape shown in Fig. 2 and bent to
form a cone, so that the smaller end will fit snugly around the pipe and
the base be 9 in. in diameter. The joined edges are riveted together. The
assembled parts will appear as shown in Fig. 3.
The metal used for plating consists of bismuth, 4 oz.; antimony, 4 oz.,
and pure block tin, 10 lb. Place the antimony in the crucible and melt
it, then add the tin and bismuth. A flame from an ordinary gasoline burner
will be sufficient to heat the crucible.
Clean the article to be coated by rinsing it in strong caustic potash,
which will remove all grime and grease, then dip it in a strong solution
of sal ammoniac and water. Dry it and then dip it in the melted metal,
allowing it to remain there about 1 minute, then remove and plunge it in
a bath made of 1 lb. of sal ammoniac and 1 gal. of water. The article is
then dried in sawdust.
[Illustration: The Parts to Make the Crucible Consist of Pipe and Fittings
and a Piece of Sheet Metal (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3)]
The coating put on in this manner is a nice, shiny plate that will stand
a lot of wear. No polishing or grinding is necessary.--Contributed by A.
H. Waychoff, Lyons, Colo.
A Model Steam-Turbine Boat
A piece of thin board, or shingle, is cut to the shape of a boat and two
standards are fastened to it. The standards have notches cut in them to
hold an ordinary baking-powder can which is used for the boiler. The lid
of the can is soldered on, and a small hole punched in one side with an
awl. Two candles are used to heat the water.
[Illustration: Model Turbine Boat Using a Baking-Powder Can for a Boiler
with Candles as Fuel]
The turbine is constructed on an axle made of a hatpin which runs
through the top of the standards for bearings. The paddles are made of
cardboard, or better still, pieces of thin sheet tin, cut and bent as
shown at A, and three of these are attached to a three-cornered block
of wood fastened to the shaft, as shown at B. The manner of attaching
the shaft for the propeller is shown at C. The propeller consists of a
piece of tin, slightly twisted and attached to the shaft with solder.
The pulleys are located as shown and connected with a string band. The
hole made in the can should be pointed to one side of the turbine shaft
so that the escaping steam will strike one side of the paddles on the
turbine.--Contributed by McKinley Wood, Ava, N. Y.
Plant Shelf for a Window
An ingenious and simple method of putting up window shelves for winter
plants so that the window casing and facing are not marred is shown in the
sketch. The materials required are one shelf, about 8 in. wide, 1-1/2 yd.
of picture wire, two screweyes, two fence staples, and two strips of wood,
to raise the shelf slightly from the window sill. The board for the shelf
is cut to fit the window frame and casing. The picture wire, screweyes and
staples are attached as shown. When cleaning the window the shelf can be
drawn out of the way.--Contributed by H. C. Dixon, Johnstown, Pa.
[Illustration: The Shelf is Hung on Wires Attached to Screweyes Placed in
the Facing Edge]
A Camera Support
A device which, in many instances, will take the place of a tripod, can
be made of a brass wood screw and can be carried in the pocket as easily
as a pencil. The screw should be 3 or 4 in. long and 1/4 in. in diameter.
Cut off the head and thread the end about 1/2 in. to fit the socket in
the camera. Drill a 1/8-in. hole through the metal just below the threaded
part and insert a short piece of 1/8-in. wire. Slip a washer over the end,
down to the wire, and fasten it with solder.
[Illustration: Substitute for a Camera Tripod That can be Carried in the
Pocket Like a Pencil]
The device can be turned into a tree, post or a stick thrust into
the ground, and the camera screwed onto it and adjusted to any
angle.--Contributed by O. D. Turner, Seattle, Wash.
Combination Tool for Amateur Draftsmen
A common 6-in. mill file can be converted into a very useful tool for an
amateur draftsman. Grind the end of the file as shown in the sketch and
use it for prying out thumbtacks that are driven in too tightly. Grind
the base of the tang into a knife blade for sharpening pencils, shaving
chalk, opening envelopes, etc. Shape, by careful grinding, the part A for
cutting and trimming sheets. Grind one edge of the file round and polish
it for smoothing and burnishing purposes. Grind a sharp point on the tang
for perforating sheets. A piece of rubber stuck on the tang end answers
the double purpose of a protector and eraser. The file part is used for
finishing points on pencils.
[Illustration: A Tool Made of a File Combining Several Tools Which are
Used by a Draftsman]
Varnishing Bases for Electric Apparatus
It is quite difficult to keep from making finger marks on freshly
varnished boards used as bases on electric devices. It is easily avoided,
however, by procuring a large spool and fastening it to the bottom of
the base with a wood screw. The spool will serve as a handle while the
varnish is applied, and also makes a stand for the board while the varnish
dries.--Contributed by Jacob Laudan, Louisville, Ky.
Waterproof Shoe Dressing
Melt some tallow and, while it is hot, put in some scraps of rubber from
old rubber shoes or boots. Be careful to select rubber that is free from
cloth. Put in as much of the rubber as the tallow will absorb. Stir freely
while it is melting, and keep it away from any flames. Allow it to cool
and set away for future use. Take enough for immediate use and warm it
sufficiently so that it may be applied with a brush.--Contributed by F.
S. Cummings, Detroit, Mich.
An Adjustable Bench Stop
A simple adjustable bench stop for light work may be made from a piece
of 1-in. broom handle and a piece of piano wire. Plane a flat surface on
the broom stick and drill two 1/16-in. holes, about 1/4 in. deep, 1/4 in.
from each end. Bend the ends of the wire to enter the holes and have the
wire of such length as to give it a slight curve between the ends when it
is in place on the stick.
[Illustration: The Spring Wire will Hold the Stop at Any Desired Position
for Height]
Bore a 1-in. hole through the bench top where it is desired to use the
stop and cut several grooves, as shown, in the walls of the hole with a
compass saw. The spring wire will slide into a groove and hold the stick
wherever it is set. The position of the face can be changed by inserting
the stick so that the wire will enter the right groove.--Contributed by
Alan H. Andrews, Fall River, Mass.
A Crochet Hook
In making some kinds of lace work different-sized hooks must be used
as the work proceeds. Considerable time will be lost in changing from
one hook to another, if they are separate. The best way is to mount all
the hooks necessary on one handle, as shown in the sketch. The handle
part is made of a large wire or small rod, bent to the shape shown and
with holes drilled through the ends for a small rivet. The ends of the
hooks are drilled or bent to fit on the rivet. A small tin ferrule is
made to slip over the handle and the hooks not in use. All hooks but the
one in use are turned back into the handle and the ferrule slipped into
place.--Contributed by Miss Nita S. Ingle, W. Toledo, O.
[Illustration: A Crochet-Hook Handle for Holding Several Hooks That are
Required for Some Lace Work]
Writing Board for Children
A writing desk for a child can be easily made as shown in the sketch.
The materials necessary are a board of suitable size, two screwhooks,
four screweyes and a pair of rods for braces. The hooks are screwed into
the back of a chair and the screweyes into the board, as shown. This
desk is instantly attached or taken down when desired. If the chair is
light and apt to tip over, make the rods long-enough to reach to the
floor.--Contributed by John V. Loeffler, Evansville, Ind.
[Illustration: The Writing Board is Easily Attached to, or Detached from,
an Ordinary Chair Back]
Geometric Principle in Line Division
When sketching a plan, if any one of the first few lines drawn is found
to be the proper length, then this line can be made into a scale by the
geometric rule for dividing a given line into equal parts.
[Illustration: A Scale can be Made for Use on Any Sized Sketch or Drawing]
Suppose, for example, the line AB, which is to represent 12 ft., is found
to be 1 ft. long. Draw a line, AC, at any angle from the point A and step
off on it 12 equal parts, beginning at A. The last point, or the one at
C, is connected to the end B, then eleven other lines are drawn parallel
with CB. Thus AB will make a scale of 1 in. to each 1 ft.--Contributed by
James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
Repairing a Broken Whip
Procure a piece of thin tin--the metal taken from a discarded fruit can
will do--and cut it about 2-1/2 in. long and wide enough to encircle
the break. Notch the ends like saw teeth and remove any sharp edges
with a file. Place the tin on the break and tie temporarily. Wind the
whole from end to end with a waxed linen thread, such as used by harness
makers. The threads lying alternately on the whip and on metal at the
notched ends eliminate any possibility of the parts working loose. A
break near the small and flexible end of a whip is repaired in the same
manner, using a quill instead of the tin. In either case, do not let the
edges of the splicing material meet, and it will clamp tightly on the
whip.--Contributed by W. S. Kingsley, W. Gouldsboro, Me.
[Illustration: The Repair on a Whip Made with a Notched Ferrule and a
Waxed Thread]
Repairing a Worn Thimble
Silver thimbles are easily worn through at the end, and they can be
quickly repaired by soldering from the inside. A very neat repair can be
made with an alcohol lamp and a blowpipe by using a little silver solder.
Borax or resin is used as a flux.
A Small Torch
A small torch, that will give a very fine and hot smokeless flame, can
be made from a piece of glass tube, about 4 in. long, and 4 ft. of rubber
tubing. The glass tube is heated in the center until it is red, then the
ends drawn apart so that the tube will have a small diameter. After the
glass has cooled, make a small scratch with a file on the thin part and
break it. One of the pointed ends is connected to a straight piece of
glass tube with a short piece of the rubber tube, as shown in the sketch.
A small hole is cut in the side of the piece of rubber to admit air to
the gas. The torch is connected to an ordinary gas jet.--Contributed by
E. K. Marshall, Oak Park, Ill.
[Illustration: A Torch Made of Glass and Rubber Tubing, to be Used on an
Ordinary Gas Jet]
Fountain Attachment for an Ordinary Pen
A quite efficient fountain pen may be quickly made by bending an ordinary
pen, as shown at A, and inserting it in the holder opposite to the
regular pen, as shown at B. For best results, the point of the auxiliary
pen should just touch the regular pen.--Contributed by Thos. L. Parker,
Wibaux, Mont.
[Illustration: The Space between the Pens Forms the Fountain, Which is
Sufficient for Considerable Writing]
* * * * *
A little water added to oil paint will make a flat or
lusterless finish and will do no harm to the paint,
as the water evaporates in time.
[Illustration]
Homemade Cut Press
The person who has a little ability in making wood cuts with a knife will
find it very interesting to make the press shown in the sketch. A fair
job of printing can be done with the press, using printer's ink spread on
a piece of glass with a hand ink roller, such as can be purchased cheaply
of any dealer in printing supplies.
[Illustration: A Hand Press for Printing from Cuts Made of Wood, Using
Ordinary Printer's Ink]
The press may have a base, A, of any size to suit, but one 1-1/2 in.
thick, 6 in. wide, and 12 in. long will be found to serve best for most
purposes. It must be smooth and level. Hard wood, such as maple, beech,
or birch, is best for all parts. The post B is 1-1/4 in. thick, 2 in.
wide, and 5 in. long. Before setting it, slot the upper end for the end
of the lever. This is done by making a saw cut, 1-3/4 in. deep, 5/8 in.
from either side and cutting out the core to make a slot 3/4 in. wide. A
1/4-in. hole is then bored through the prongs to receive a stove bolt that
connects them with the lever. The post is fastened with screws and glue
in a notch cut in the center of the base end.