Part IV--Trout Fishing with Fly and Bait

How to Cast the Fly

To be able to cast the artificial fly a distance of 50 ft., or more, and

let the feathered lure alight upon the desired bit of water as lightly as

a falling leaf is no small accomplishment, for fly casting is an art, and

to become an expert, much practice is necessary. The personal assistance

of a skillful caster is not often available, but if the angler will follow

the suggestions outlined, a beginner will soon grasp the knack of handling

the fly rod, and the casting will steadily improve with practice. As the

knack of handling a gun is best gained--not in the field, shooting live

game, but through shooting at targets--so may the art of fly casting be

more quickly acquired by intelligent practice conducted away from the

stream, in the back yard, or any other place roomy enough to swing the

rod and a moderately long line. By practicing in this way, the angler's

attention is focused upon the cast and is not partly occupied with the

excitement of fishing. To make a good beginning, let the reel contain

about 25 yd. of common, braided, linen line (size E is about right) and

instead of a fly, or hook, affix a small split shot to the end of the

line. It is well to begin with a cheap rod and save a good outfit, and

if the angler learns how to make a fairly long and accurate cast with

a common rod, he may feel assured that he can even do better with a

first-rate outfit.

[Illustration: Fig. 1--The Proper Way to Take Hold of the Handle with the

Reel on the Under Side]

The first point to observe in making the cast is to grip the rod

correctly, and this is done by grasping the rod at the right point where

it balances best. By shifting the hand about this point of balance is

quickly found, for at no other point will the rod "hang" well in the hand.

In casting, the reel is turned to the under side of the rod with the thumb

extended along the top of the grip, as shown in Fig. 1. Taking up an easy

casting position, with the left foot slightly advanced, pull from the reel

about 25 yd. of line and let this slack line fall in coils upon the ground

in front; bring the rod up slightly above the horizontal, as shown in Fig.

2, and with a quick snap of the wrist, avoiding shoulder or body movement,

throw the tip upward, checking it sharply as soon as the tip is carried

over the shoulder about 25° beyond the vertical plane as in Fig. 3. This

snappy upstroke of the rod makes the "back cast," by projecting the line

high in the air, and carries it well behind the angler. Before the line

has fully straightened out behind, and before it has an opportunity to

fall much below the caster's shoulders, the rod is snapped forward with a

quick wrist-and-forearm movement, which throws the line forward in front

of the fisherman and in the direction he is facing, which finishes the

cast with the rod in the position shown in Fig. 4.

[Illustration: Fig. 2--Begin the Cast with the Rod in a Position Just

above the Horizontal Plane]

Long and accurate fly casting is much more a matter of skill than muscle,

and while some fly fishermen cast directly from the shoulder and upper

arm, and thus use a considerable amount of muscular force in making the

cast, this cannot be regarded as the best method of casting. The great

elasticity of the fly rod ought to be taken full advantage of by the

caster, and if this is done, casting will be naturally accomplished by

the wrist and forearm. To make strenuous efforts to hurl the fly through

the air, using an arm or body movement, is extremely tiring after an hour

or so of fishing, while if the cast is made from the wrist, aided by the

forearm, the snap of the rod may be depended upon to project the fly to

greater length of line and allow it to fall close to the desired spot,

lightly and without splashing.

Timing the back cast is the most difficult detail of fly casting, because

the line is behind the angler and the eye cannot aid the hand. The novice

will soon acquire the knack of casting, however, if he will remember to

keep the elbow close to the side, and to keep the line well up in the

air when making the back cast, and to begin the forward movement before

the line has fully straightened out behind him. After a little practice,

the hand will feel the slight tension communicated to the rod as the

line begins to straighten out, and this should be taken advantage of to

correctly time the forward movement. Counting "one" for the upstroke, "two

and" for the interval required for the line to straighten out in the rear,

and "three" for the forward movement, is also a good way to time the cast.

At the beginning the caster should make no attempt to secure distance.

Accuracy and delicacy in placing the fly on the water is of much more

importance than length of cast in trout fishing, and to attain this end,

it is a good plan to place a newspaper about 25 ft. distant and try to

drop the end of the line on this mark. When the caster can drop the line

on the target lightly and with reasonable accuracy, he may feel justified

in lengthening his cast. Other casts than the overhead cast just described

are occasionally used, as the Spey, switch, wind, and flip casts, but

the overhead cast is mostly used, although it is much more difficult to

master.

To make the Spey cast, the angler requires a rapid stream which will

carry the line downstream until it is straight and taut, the tip of the

rod being held as long as possible to accomplish this end. The rod is

then raised high in the air with a quick wrist movement, which lifts

the line from the water to the extreme end, then without pausing the rod

is carried upstream with just sufficient force to let the fly fall just

above the angler. The line is now on the reverse, or upper, side of the

fisherman, when with a sweep of the rod the line is projected over the

water's surface--not along the surface--in the manner used in making the

overhead cast.

[Illustration: Fig. 3--The Rod is Quickly Checked When It is Carried over

the Shoulder About 25 Degrees]

The switch cast is sometimes useful when trees or rocks are immediately

back of the fisherman, thus preventing the line from extending far enough

backward to make the overhead cast. In making this cast the line is

not lifted from the water, but merely to the surface by raising the tip

of the rod. The line is dragged through the water by carrying the tip

in the direction one is standing until it is as far in the rear as the

obstructions will permit. By a quick downward sweep of the rod the line

is projected with sufficient force to roll it forward in a large coil or

loop, much as a wheel rolls on a track.

The wind cast is a modification of the switch cast, but easier to make.

The caster brings his line almost to his feet, and with a quick downward

motion of the rod the line is thrown in a long loop against the wind.

The underhand and the flip casts are so simple that it seems almost

unnecessary to describe them. Both are short casts and are only used when

the angler is fishing in an overgrown stream. The underhand cast is really

a side cast, inasmuch as the short line is lifted from the water in a loop

and propelled in the desired direction by a side sweep of the rod. The

flip cast is made by holding the fly between the thumb and finger and with

a few coils of line in the right hand. Bend the rod like a bow, release

the fly suddenly, and the snap of the rod will project it in the desired

direction and allow it to drop lightly like a fly.

Handling the Flies in the Water

As a general thing the veteran fly fisherman prefers to wade with the

current and fishes the water in front of him by making diagonal casts

across the stream. A good fisherman will systematically cover every inch

of good water and little will be left to chance. The novice is inclined to

fish his flies in a contrary manner, he casts more or less at random, and

is as likely to splash the flies recklessly about in the most impossible

places as he is to drop them in a favorable riffle or pool. To be able

to pick out fishable water, the angler should know something about the

habits of the trout, their characteristics at the several seasons of the

fishing year, and their habits, which differ greatly in different streams.

A fishing knowledge of the stream to be visited is of much value, but

if the angler knows how to make a fair cast and possesses average skill

in handling flies on water, there should be no question but that he will

creel a fair number of trout even though he casts in strange waters.

[Illustration: Fig. 4--The Cast is Finished by Throwing the Line Forward

with a Quick Wrist-and-Forearm Movement]

To imitate the action of the natural insect is the most successful manner

of fishing the flies, and as the natural fly will struggle more or less

when borne down with the current, the fisherman endeavors to duplicate

this movement by making his artificial fly wriggle about. This motion

must not be overdone, for if the flies are twitched and skipped about, or

pulled against the current, the wary trout will refuse to fall for any

such obvious deceit. A gentle motion of the wrist will cause the fly to

move somewhat as the natural insect will struggle.

In making the cast do not cast directly down or upstream, but across

the current at an angle. Let the flies fall upon the water as lightly as

possible, so that the water will carry them downstream over the likely

places where the trout are hiding. Keep the line as taut as possible by

drawing the slack in with the left hand. The flies should not be allowed

to soak in the water, neither should they be retrieved in haste. The

experienced fly caster will invariably fish with a wet line, that is to

say, with a slightly submerged fly, and will let the flies drag over as

much water as possible before making a second cast. Owing to the fact

that trout lie with their noses pointing upstream awaiting their food

carried down by the current, the caster will naturally take pains to float

his flies downstream with the leader fairly taut. To neglect this detail

and allow the leader to float in a wide loop near or before the flies

is slovenly fishing, and few trout will strike a fly presented in this

amateurish fashion.

Early in the fishing season, and when the stream is flooded and discolored

after a heavy rain, it is a good plan to fish the flies below the surface.

Fishing in this manner makes it more difficult to tell when to strike a

fish, and some little practice is needed to determine the opportune moment

by feeling the slight tension on the line. Many fish will be pricked to

be sure, but some trout will be creeled, and fishing with the submerged

fly is sometimes the only way trout can be taken.

On fair days and in smooth water, better luck may be expected when the fly

is kept upon the surface, and this is easily managed by keeping the tip

of the rod well in the air. Often the fisherman can take advantage of a

bit of floating foam, and if the fly is cast upon it and allowed to float

with it downstream, the ruse will often prove effective.

The trout is a hard striker and it is not unusual to have a trout rush

ahead of the fly in his attempt to mouth it. In rapid water the savage

rush of the fish is sufficient to hook it securely, but when casting in

quiet pools, the hook is imbedded by a snap of the wrist. At what exact

moment to strike, as well as the amount of force to use, depends upon

circumstances. When fishing in small streams and brooks where the trout

run small, much less force is necessary to hook the fish, but in quiet

water and in larger streams where 2 or 3-lb. trout are not uncommon, the

fish may be struck with a smart upward jerk of the forearm and wrist.

So far as my experience goes, the matter of striking is governed by the

temperament as well as the judgment of the angler. The deliberate thinking

man is likely to strike too late, while the nervous individual, striking

too early, is apt to prick the trout and roll him over.

The best time to fish for trout is when they are feeding on the surface;

and in the early days of spring, when there are few flies about, the

warmer part of the day, say, from 10 in the morning to 5 in the afternoon,

will prove to be the most successful time. Later on, when flies are

numerous, good luck may be expected at an early hour in the morning,

and in the hot summer months the cooler hours of the day may be chosen.

Of course, there are many exceptions, since there are many cool days in

summer, as well as exceptionally warm days in spring, and these changes

of weather should be considered. However, extremes are not likely to make

good fishing, and the trout will not rise as freely on cold, windy days,

nor will they fight as gamely. On hot days, too, not so much luck can be

expected during the hours of the greatest heat--12 to 4--but a good basket

of trout may be creeled early in the morning or late in the afternoon of

summer. A bright, clear day is usually the best for fly fishing, because

the sun brings out more flies, but a warm rain, or even a fog, is also

considered good fishing weather.

Among the live baits available for trout fishing are the minnow, white

grub, cricket, grasshopper, and other insects, and last, but by no means

least, the common angle or earthworm. The minnow is beyond a doubt the

most enticing morsel that can be offered to a hungry trout, and a minnow

may be reckoned to secure a rise when other baits fail. The inconvenience

of transporting this bait is a great drawback, and as minnows are delicate

fish, a minnow bucket is necessary for their preservation. This means a

lot of trouble, as the water must be frequently changed or aerated, and

this labor, together with the difficulty of carrying a bulky pail through

the brush, makes this desirable bait almost impossible for stream and

brook fishing. The salt-water minnow, known as a "shiner" or "mummychug,"

is a topnotch trout bait, and being much tougher than the fresh-water

minnow, makes a bait often used by anglers residing near the seacoast.

The white grub, or larvae of the so-called May beetle, is a good bait

available for early-season fishing, and may be obtained in the early

spring months by spading up grass land. The grub is about 1 in. long, and

of a creamy yellow color with a darker head. It may be kept a month, or

more, by putting it in a box with a number of pieces of fresh turf.

Crickets, grasshoppers, and many other insects, make good baits, while

the earthworm is a good all-around bait for trout. A supply dug some days

before and kept by packing in fresh moss and slightly moistening with milk

and water will prove more attractive in appearance and the worms will be

tougher and cleaner to handle than when carried in earth.

Other good baits include the fin of a trout, and if this is used in

combination with the eye of the same fish, it forms an attractive lure. In

using this bait, do not puncture the eyeball, but hook through the thin

flexible skin surrounding the eye. A fat piece of salt pork, cut into

pieces 1 in. long and 1/4 in. wide, makes a fairly good bait. Spoons and

other spinning baits are presumably attractive, but few sportsmen use them

when angling for so fine a fish as trout.

[Illustration:]

Houses Made of Poles By Lola A. Pinchon

[In this article descriptions are given of several shelters

suitable for a resort, but the reader may select any one of

them that answers his needs and build a camp house, or fit up

a more substantial one to make living quarters for the whole

year.--Editor.]

[Illustration: Houses Made of Poles]

Being forced to take the open-air treatment to regain health, a person

adopted the plan of building a pole house in the woods, and the scheme was

so successful that it was decided to make a resort grounds, to attract

crowds during holidays, by which an income could be realized for living

expenses. All the pavilions, stands, furniture, and amusement devices

were constructed of straight poles cut from young growth of timber with

the bark remaining on them. Outside of boards for flooring and roofing

material, the entire construction of the buildings and fences consisted

of poles.

[Illustration: The Frame Construction of the House Made Entirely of Rough

Poles, the Verticals being Set in the Ground, Plumbed, and Sighted to Make

a Perfect Rectangle of the Desired Proportions]

A level spot was selected and a house built having three rooms. The

location was in a grove of young timbers, most of it being straight, and

13 trees were easily found that would make posts 12 ft. long, required

for the sides, and two poles 16 ft. long, for the center of the ends, so

that they would reach to the ridge. The plot was laid out rectangular and

marked for the poles, which were set in the ground for a depth of 4 ft.,

at distances of 6 ft. apart. This made the house 8 ft. high at the eaves

with a square pitch roof; that is, the ridge was 3 ft. high in the center

from the plate surfaces for this width of a house. The rule for finding

this height is to take one-quarter of the width of the house for the

height in the center from the plate.

[Illustration: The Steps are Supported on Pairs of Vertical Poles Set in

the Ground to Make Different Levels]

The corner poles were carefully located to make the size 12 by 24 ft.,

with a lean-to 8 by 12 ft., and then plumbed to get them straight

vertically. The plates for the sides, consisting of five poles, were

selected as straight as possible and their ends and centers hewn down to

about one-half their thickness, as shown at A and B, and nailed to the

tops of the vertical poles, the connection for center poles being as shown

at C.

The next step was to secure the vertical poles with crosspieces between

them which were used later for supporting the siding. These poles were

cut about 6 ft. long, their ends being cut concave to fit the curve of the

upright poles, as shown at D. These were spaced evenly, about 2 ft. apart

from center to center, on the sides and ends, as shown in the sketch,

and toenailed in place. The doors and window openings were cut in the

horizontal poles wherever wanted, and casements set in and nailed. The

first row of horizontal poles was placed close to the ground and used both

as support for the lower ends of the siding and to nail the ends of the

flooring boards to, which were fastened in the center to poles laid on

stones, or, better still, placed on top of short blocks, 5 ft. long, set

in the ground. These poles for the floor should be placed not over 2 ft.

apart to make the flooring solid.

[Illustration: Gate Openings were Made in the Fence Where Necessary, and

Gates of Poles Hung in the Ordinary Manner]

A lean-to was built by setting three poles at a distance of 8 ft. from

one side, beginning at the center and extending to the end of the main

building. These poles were about 6 ft. long above the ground. The rafter

poles for this part were about 9-1/2 ft. long, notched at both ends for

the plates, the ends of the house rafters being sawed off even with the

outside of the plate along this edge. The rafter poles for the house were

10 in all, 8 ft. long, and were laid off and cut to fit a ridge made of a

board. These poles were notched about 15 in. from their lower ends to fit

over the rounding edge of the plate pole, and were then placed directly

over each vertical wall pole. They were nailed both to the plate and to

the ridge, also further strengthened by a brace made of a piece of board

or a small pole, placed under the ridge and nailed to both rafters. On

top of the rafters boards were placed horizontally, spaced about 1 ft.

apart, but this is optional with the builder, as other roofing material

can be used. In this instance metal roofing was used, and it only required

fastening at intervals, and to prevent rusting out, it was well painted on

the under side before laying it and coated on the outside when fastened

in place. If a more substantial shelter is wanted, it is best to lay the

roof solid with boards, then cover it with the regular prepared roofing

material.

Some large trees were selected and felled, then cut into 4-ft. lengths

and the bark removed, or if desired, the bark removed in 4-ft. lengths,

and nailed on the outside of the poles, beginning at the bottom in the

same manner as laying shingles, to form the siding of the house. If a more

substantial house is wanted, boards can be nailed on the poles, then the

bark fastened to the boards; also, the interior can be finished in wall

board.

The same general construction is used for the porch, with horizontal

poles latticed, as shown, to form the railing. It is very easy to make

ornamental parts, such as shown, on the eave of the porch, by splitting

sticks and nailing them on closely together to make a frieze. Floors are

laid on the porch and in the house, and doors hung and window sash fitted

in the same manner as in an ordinary house.

[Illustration: All Furniture, Together with the Large Lawn Swings, Took

on the General Appearance of the Woodland, and As the Pieces were Made Up

of the Same Material As the Houses, the Cost Was Only the Labor and a Few

Nails]

A band stand was constructed on sloping ground, and after setting the

poles, the floor horizontals were placed about 2 ft. above the ground,

on the upper side, and 4 ft. on the lower side. The poles used were about

18 ft. long. Instead of having the horizontals 2 ft. apart, the first was

placed 1 ft. above the floor, the next at about one-half the distance

from the lower one to the plate at the top, and the space between was

ornamented with cross poles, as shown. A balcony or bay was constructed

at one end, and a fancy roof was made of poles whose ends rested on a

curved pole attached to the vertical pieces. Steps were formed of several

straight poles, hewn down on their ends to make a level place to rest on

horizontal pieces attached to stakes at the ends. A pair of stakes were

used at each end of a step, and these were fastened to a slanting piece at

the top, their lower ends being set into the ground. The manner of bracing

and crossing with horizontals makes a rigid form of construction, and if

choice poles are selected for the step pieces, they will be comparatively

level and of sufficient strength to hold up all the load put on them.

The roof of this building was made for a sun shade only and consisted of

boards nailed closely together on the rafters.

[Illustration: The Entrance to the Grounds was Given an Inviting

Appearance with Large Posts and Swinging Gates]

An ice-cream parlor was built on the same plan, but without any board

floor; the ground, being level, was used instead. There were five vertical

poles used for each end with a space left between the two poles at the

center, on both sides, for an entrance. This building was covered with

prepared roofing, so that the things kept for sale could be protected in

case of a shower.

A peanut stand was also built without a floor, and to make it with nine

sides, nine poles were set in the ground to form a perfect nonagon and

joined at their tops with latticed horizontals. Then a rafter was run

from the top of each post to the center, and boards were fitted on each

pair of rafters over the V-shaped openings. The boards were then covered

with prepared roofing. A railing was formed of horizontals set in notches,

cut in the posts, and then ornamented in the same manner as for the other

buildings.

Fences were constructed about the grounds, made of pole posts with

horizontals on top, hewn down and fitted as the plates for the house; and

the lower pieces were set in the same as for making the house railing.

Gates were made of two vertical pieces, the height of the posts, and two

horizontals, then braced with a piece running from the lower corner at

the hinge side to the upper opposite corner, the other cross brace being

joined to the sides of the former, whereupon two short horizontals were

fitted in the center. A blacksmith formed some hinges of rods and strap

iron, as shown, and these were fastened in holes bored in the post and

the gate vertical. A latch was made by boring a hole through the gate

vertical and into the end of the short piece. Then a slot was cut in the

side to receive a pin inserted in a shaft made to fit the horizontal hole.

A keeper was made in the post by boring a hole to receive the end of the

latch.

Large posts were constructed at the entrance to the grounds, and on

these double swing gates, made up in the same manner as the small one,

were attached. These large posts were built up of four slender poles and

were considerably higher than the fence poles. The poles were set in a

perfect square, having sides about 18 in. long, and a square top put on

by mitering the corners, whereupon four small rafters were fitted on top.

The gates were swung on hinges made like those for the small gate.

Among the best and most enjoyed amusement devices on the grounds were the

swings. Several of these were built, with and without tables. Four poles,

about 20 ft. long, were set in the ground at an angle, and each pair of

side poles was joined with two horizontals, about 12 ft. long, spreaders

being fastened between the two horizontals to keep the tops of the poles

evenly spaced. The distance apart of the poles will depend on the size of

the swing and the number of persons to be seated. Each pair of side poles

are further strengthened with crossed poles, as shown. If no table is to

be used in the swing, the poles may be set closer together, so that the

top horizontals will be about 8 ft. long. The platform for the swinging

part consists of two poles, 12 ft. long, which are swung on six vertical

poles, about 14 ft. long. These poles are attached to the top horizontals

with long bolts, or rods, running through both, the bottom being attached

in the same manner. Poles are nailed across the platform horizontals at

the bottom for a floor, and a table with seats at the ends is formed of

poles. The construction is obvious.

A short space between two trees can be made into a seat by fastening two

horizontals, one on each tree, with the ends supported by braces. Poles

are nailed on the upper surface for a seat.

Other furniture for the house and grounds was made of poles in the manner

illustrated. Tables were built for picnickers by setting four or six

poles in the ground and making a top of poles or boards. Horizontals were

placed across the legs with extending ends, on which seats were made for

the tables. Chairs and settees were built in the same manner, poles being

used for the entire construction.

An Electric Water Heater

Procure the barrel and cap from a hand bicycle pump and prepare them as

follows: Make a tube of paper, about double the thickness of a postal

card, to fit snugly in the pump barrel and oil it slightly before slipping

it into place. Procure some resistance wire of the proper length and

size to heat quickly. The wire can be tested out by coiling it on some

nonconducting material, such as an earthen jug or glazed tile, and

connecting one end to the current supply and running the other wire of

the supply over the coil until it heats properly. Cut the resistance at

this point and temporarily coil it to fit into the bottom of the pump

barrel, allowing one end to extend up through the space in the center with

sufficient length to make a connection to supply wires.

Mix some dental plaster to the consistency of thick cream and, while

keeping the wire in the center of the pump barrel, pour in the mixture

until it is filled to within 1-1/2 in. of the top. Allow the plaster to

set for about a day, then remove it from the barrel and take off the paper

roll. The coil of wire at the bottom is now straightened out and wound in

a coil over the outside of the plaster core, allowing sufficient end for

connecting to the supply wires.

[Illustration: An Electric Heating Coil Made of Resistance Wire Placed in

a Bicycle-Pump Barrel for Boiling Water]

Cut two or three disks of mica to fit snugly in the bottom of the pump

barrel, also cut a mica sheet to make a covering tube over the coil on the

plaster core and insert the whole into the barrel. The two terminals are

connected to the ends of a flexible cord which has a plug attached to the

opposite end. Be sure to insulate the ends of the wire where they connect

to the flexible cord inside of the pump barrel under the cap. In winding

the resistance wire on the core, be sure that one turn does not touch the

other. The heater when connected to a current supply and placed in 1 qt.

of water will bring it to a boil quickly.--Contributed by A. H. Waychoff,

Lyons, Colo

[Illustration]

Camps By F. S. Charles

A good site, pure water in abundance, and a convenient fuel supply, are

the features of a temporary camp that should be given first consideration

when starting out to enjoy a vacation in the woods. The site should

be high and dry, level enough for the tent and camp fire, and with

surrounding ground sloping enough to insure proper drainage. A sufficient

fuel supply is an important factor, and a spot should be chosen where

great effort is not required to collect it and get it into proper shape

for the fire.

[Illustration: Wall Tent]

[Illustration: Lean-To of Boughs]

[Illustration: Log Cabin]

When locating near streams of water be careful to select a spot above high

water mark so the ground will not be overflowed by a sudden rise of the

stream. Do not select the site of an old camp, as the surroundings are

usually stripped of all fuel, and the grounds are unclean.

Division of Work

Clear the selected spot and lay out the lines for the tent, camp fire,

etc. If the camping party consists of more than two persons, each

one should do the part allotted to him, and the work will be speedily

accomplished. Remember that discipline brings efficiency, and do not be

slack about a camp just because it is pleasure. One of the party should

attend to the camp fire and prepare the meals while another secures the

fuel and water. The tent can be unpacked and the ground cleared by the

other members of the party, and when ready, all should assist in raising

the tent, especially if it is a large one.

Tents

An ordinary A or wedge tent is sufficient for one or two campers. Where

you do not wish to locate permanently, this tent can be set up and taken

down quickly. It should have a ring fastened to the cloth in each peak

through which to pass a rope or line to take the place of a ridge pole.

Such a tent can be pitched between two trees or saplings, and, after tying

the rope to the trees, it can be tightened with a long forked stick,

placed under one end of the rope. If two trees are not conveniently

located, then two poles crossed and tied together will make supports

for one or both ends, the ridge line running over them and staked to the

ground.

[Illustration: Fire between Two Logs]

[Illustration: Fire Built against a Log]

On a chilly night, the A tent is quite advantageous. The stakes can be

pulled on one side and the cloth doubled to make a lean-to, open on the

side away from the wind. A fire can be built in front and the deflected

heat on the sleeper will keep him comfortable and warm.

For larger parties, the wall tent with a fly is recommended. These tents

can be purchased in various sizes. The fly is an extra covering stretched

over the top to make an open air space between the two roofs. It keeps the

interior of the tent delightfully cool in hot summer weather and provides

a better protection from rain. The fly can be made extra long, to extend

over the end of the tent, making a shady retreat which can be used for

lounging or a dining place.

Protection from Insects

Where mosquitoes and other insects are numerous, it is well to make a

second tent of cheesecloth with binding tape along the top to tie it to

the ridge pole of the regular tent. The sides should be made somewhat

longer than the regular tent so that there will be plenty of cloth to

weight it down at the bottom. This second tent should be made without any

opening whatever. The occupant must crawl under the edge to enter. The

cheesecloth tent is used inside of the ordinary tent, and when not in use

it is pushed aside.

[Illustration: Forked Sticks Supporting Cooking Utensils]

Two camps are illustrated showing the construction of a lean-to for a

temporary one-season camp, and a log cabin which makes a permanent place

from year to year. (A more elaborate and more expensive camp was described

in the May issue of this magazine.) The construction of these camps are

very simple. The first is made of poles cut in the woods. A ridge pole is

placed between two trees or held in place with poles of sufficient length,

set in the ground. Poles are placed on this at an angle of about 45 deg.,

forming a lean-to that will be entirely open in front when finished. The

poles are covered, beginning at the bottom, with pine boughs, laid in

layers so as to make a roof that will shed water. A large fire, built a

short distance from the open front will make a warm place to sleep, the

heat being reflected down the same as described for the A tent.

A Permanent Camp

A good permanent camp is a log cabin. This can be constructed of materials

found in the woods. Trees may be felled, cut to length, and notched to

join the ends together at each corner so as to leave little or no space

between the logs. The roof is constructed of long clapboards, split from

blocks of wood. The builder can finish such a camp as elaborately as he

chooses, and for this reason the site should be selected with great care.

Camp Fires

There is no better way to make a camp fire than to have a large log or

two against which to start a fire with small boughs. Larger sticks can be

placed over the logs in such a way as to hold a pot of water or to set

a frying pan. Forked sticks can be laid on the log and weighted on the

lower end with a stone, using the upper end to hang a cooking vessel over

the flames. Two logs placed parallel, with space enough between for the

smaller sticks, make one of the best camp cooking arrangements. Two forked

sticks, one at each end of the logs, may be set in the ground and a pole

placed in the forks lengthwise of the fire. This makes a convenient place

for hanging the cooking utensils with bent wires.

Food Supplies

The conditions in various localities make a difference in the camper's

appetite and in consequence no special list of food can be recommended,

but the amount needed by the average person in a vacation camp for two

weeks, is about as follows:

Bacon 15 lb.

Ham 5 "

Flour 20 "

Corn Meal 5 "

Rice 5 "

Baking Powder 1/2 "

Sugar 5 "

Beans 4 "

Salt 2 "

Lard 3 "

Coffee 3 "

A number of small things must be added to this list, such as pepper, olive

oil, sage, nutmeg and vinegar. If the weight is not to be considered,

canned goods, preserves, jam and marmalade, also vegetables and dried

fruits may be added. Do not forget soap and matches.

Food can be kept cool in a box or a box-like arrangement made of straight

sticks over which burlap is hung and kept wet. This is accomplished by

setting a pan on top of the box and fixing wicks of cloth over the edges.

The wicks will siphon the water out evenly and keep the burlap wet.

A Drinking Tube

When on a walking tour through the woods or country, it might be well

to provide a way to procure water for drinking purposes. Take with you

several feet of small rubber tubing and a few inches of hollow cane of

the size to fit the tube.

In one end insert the cane for a mouthpiece, and allow the other end to

reach into the water. Exhaust the air from the tube and the water will

rush up to your lips.--Contributed by L. Alberta Norrell, Augusta, Ga.

Washing Photographic Prints

The usual way of washing photographic prints is to place them in a shallow

tray in which they will become stuck together in bunches, if they are

not often separated. A French magazine suggests that a deep tank be used

instead, and that each print be attached to a cork by means of a pin

stuck through one corner, the cork thus becoming a float which keeps the

print suspended vertically, and at the same time prevents contact with

its nearest neighbor.

Camp Furnishings By Chelsea Curtis Fraser

When on a camping trip nothing should be carried but the necessities, and

the furnishings should be made up from materials found in the woods. A

good spring bed can be made up in the following manner: Cut two stringers

from small, straight trees, about 4 in. in diameter, and make them about

6 ft. long. All branches are trimmed off smooth and a trench is dug in the

ground for each piece, the trenches being 24 in. apart. Small saplings,

about 1 in. in diameter, and as straight as can be found, are cut and

trimmed of all branches, and nailed across the stringers for the springs.

Knots, bulges, etc., should be turned downward as far as possible. The

ends of each piece are flattened as shown at A, Fig. 1, to give it a good

seat on the stringers.

A larger sapling is cut, flattened, and nailed at the head of the bed

across the stringers, and to it a number of head-stay saplings, B, are

nailed. These head-stay pieces are cut about 12 in. long, sharpened on one

end and driven a little way into the ground, after which they are nailed

to the head crosspiece.

[Illustration: A Camp Bed Made of Saplings with Several Layers of Boughs

for the Mattress (Fig. 1)]

In the absence of an empty mattress tick and pillow cover which can be

filled with straw, boughs of fir may be used. These boughs should not be

larger than a match and crooked stems should be turned down. Begin at the

head of the bed and lay a row of boughs with the stems pointing toward the

foot. Over this row, and half-lapping it, place another row so that the

tops of the boughs lie on the line C and their stems on the line D. This

process is continued until the crosspiece springs are entirely covered,

and then another layer is laid in the same manner on top of these, and

so on, until a depth of 6 or 8 in. is obtained. This will make a good

substitute for a mattress. A pillow can be made by filling a meal bag with

boughs or leaves.

[Illustration: A Table Made of Packing-Box Material and a Wash Basin Stand

of Three Stakes (Fig. 2, Fig. 3)]

A good and serviceable table can be constructed from a few fence boards,

or boards taken from a packing box. The table and chairs are made in one

piece, the construction being clearly shown in Fig. 2. The height of the

ends should be about 29 in., and the seats about 17 in. from the ground.

The other dimensions will be governed by the material at hand and the

number of campers.

A wash-basin support can be made of three stakes, cut from saplings and

driven in the ground, as shown in Fig. 3. The basin is hung by its rim

between the ends of the stakes.

Wherever a suitable tree is handy, a seat can be constructed as shown in

Fig. 4. Bore two 1-in. holes, 8 in. apart, in the trunk, 15 in. above the

ground, and drive two pins, about 12 in. long, cut from a sapling into

them. The extending ends are supported on legs of the same material. The

seat is made of a slab with the rounding side down.

A clothes hanger for the tent ridge pole can be made as shown in Fig.

5. The hanger consists of a piece, 7 in. long, cut from a 2-in. sapling,

nails being driven into its sides for hooks. The upper end is fitted with

a rope which is tied over the ridge pole of the tent.

[Illustration: A Seat Against the Trunk of a Tree, and a Clothes Hanger

for the Tent Ridge Pole (Fig. 4, Fig. 5)]

A Fruit Stemmer

In the berry season the stemmer shown in the sketch is a very handy

article for the kitchen. It is made of spring steel and tempered, the

length being about 2-1/2 in. The end used for removing the stem is ground

from the outside edge after tempering. A ring large enough to admit the

second finger is soldered at a convenient distance from the end on one

leg.--Contributed by H. F. Reams, Nashville, Tennessee.

[Illustration]

A Homemade Fountain Pen

A very serviceable fountain pen can be made from two 38-72 rifle

cartridges and a steel pen. Clean out the cartridges, fit a plug tightly

in the end of one shell, and cut it off smooth with the end of the metal.

Drill a 3/16 in. hole in the center of the wood plug and fit another plug

into this hole with sufficient end projecting to be shaped for the length

of the steel pen to be used. The shank of the pen and the plug must enter

the hole together. One side of the projecting end of the plug should be

shaped to fit the inside surface of the pen and then cut off at a point

a little farther out than the eye in the pen. On the surface that is to

lie against the pen a groove is cut in the plug extending from near the

point to the back end where it is to enter the hole in the first plug.

The under side of the plug is shaped about as shown.

[Illustration: One Cartridge Shell Makes the Fountain Part of the Pen,

and the Other the Cap]

The other cartridge is cut off at such a point that it will fit on the

tapering end of the first one, and is used for a cap. The cartridge being

filled with ink and the plug inserted, the ink will flow down the small

groove in the feeder plug and supply the pen with ink. Care must be taken

that the surface of the smaller plug fits the pen snugly and that the

groove is not cut through to the point end. This will keep the ink from

flooding, and only that which is used for writing will be able to get

through or leak out.--Contributed by Edwin N. Harnish, Ceylon, Canada.

Destroying Caterpillars on Grapevines

The grapes in my back yard were being destroyed by caterpillars which

could be found under all the large leaves. The vine was almost dead when I

began to cut off all the large leaves and those eaten by the caterpillars,

which allowed the sun's rays to reach the grapes. This destroyed all the

caterpillars and the light and heat ripened the grapes.--Contributed by

Wm. Singer, Rahway, N. J.

* * * * *

It will require 1 gal. of ordinary mixed calcimine to

cover 270 sq. ft. of plastered surface, 180 sq. ft.

of brickwork and 225 sq. ft. of average woodwork.

A Camp Provision Box

While on a camping-and canoeing trip recently, I used a device which added

a touch of completeness to our outfit and made camp life really enjoyable.

This useful device is none other than a provision or "grub" box.

[Illustration: The Provision Box Ready for Use in Camp, the Cover Turned

Back on the Brackets and the Legs Extended]

From experience campers know that the first important factor in having

a successful trip is compactness of outfit. When undertaking an outing

of this kind it is most desirable to have as few bundles to carry as

possible, especially if one is going to be on the move part of the time.

This device eliminates an unnecessary amount of bundles, thus making the

trip easier for the campers, and doubly so if they intend canoeing part

of the time; and, apart from its usefulness as a provision container, it

affords a general repository for the small articles which mean so much to

the camper's welfare.

The box proper may be made of any convenient size, so long as it is not

too cumbersome for two people to handle. The dimensions given are for a

box I used on a canoe trip of several hundred miles; and from experience

I know it to be of a suitable size for canoeists. If the camper is going

to have a fixed camp and have his luggage hauled, a larger box is much to

be preferred. A glance at the figures will show the general proportions

of the box. It may be possible, in some cases, to secure a strong packing

box near the required dimensions, thus doing away with the trouble of

constructing it. The distinguishing features of this box are the hinged

cover, the folding legs, and the folding brackets. The brackets, upon

which the top rests when open, fold in against the back of the box when

not in use. The same may be said of the legs. They fold up alongside the

box and are held there by spring-brass clips.

[Illustration: The Brackets for the Cover as Well as Each of the Four Legs

Fold Against the Sides of the Box in Such a Manner as to be Out of the

Way, Making the Box Easy to Carry and Store Away in a Small Space]

On our trips we carry an alcohol stove on which we do all of our cooking.

The inner side of the top is covered with a sheet of asbestos, this side

being uppermost when the hinged top is opened and resting on the folding

brackets. The stove rested on this asbestos, thus making everything safe.

The cover is large enough to do all the cooking on, and the box is so high

that the cooking can be attended to without stooping over, which is much

more pleasant than squatting before a camp fire getting the eyes full of

smoke. The legs are hinged to the box in such a manner that all of the

weight of the box rests on the legs rather than on the hinges, and are

kept from spreading apart by wire turnbuckles. These, being just bolts

and wire, may be tucked inside the box when on the move. The top is fitted

with unexposed hinges and with a lock to make it a safe place for storing

valuables.

[Illustration: Detail of the Turnbuckle, Button to Hold the Brackets, and

the Spring Clip for Holding the Legs on the Side of the Box]

In constructing the cover it is well to make it so that it covers the

joints of the sides, thus making the box waterproof from the top, if rain

should fall on it. A partition can be made in one end to hold odds and

ends. A tray could be installed, like the tray in a trunk, to hold knives,

forks, spoons, etc., while the perishable supplies are kept underneath

the tray. Give the box two coats of lead paint, and shellac the inside.

The wire braces for the legs are made as follows. Procure four machine

bolts, about 1/4 in. in diameter and 2 in. long--any thread will do--with

wing nuts and washers to fit. Saw or file off the heads and drill a small

hole in one end of each bolt, large enough to receive a No. 16 galvanized

iron wire. Two inches from the bottom of each leg drill a hole to take

the bolt loosely. Determine the exact distance between the outside edges

of the legs when the box is resting on them. Make the wire braces 1 in.

longer than this distance so that the bolts will protrude through the

holes in the legs and allow for putting on the nuts and washers. Screwing

up on the nuts draws the wire taut, thus holding the legs firm.

The size of the top determines the dimensions of the folding brackets

which support it when open. These brackets may be solid blocks of wood,

but a lighter and more serviceable bracket is constructed as follows. If

the top is 20 in. wide and 30 in. long, make the brackets 10 by 13 in.

Constructing the brackets so that their combined length is 4 in. shorter

than the total length of the box, facilitates their folding against

the back of the box when not in use. This point is clearly shown in the

drawing. Our brackets were made of 1/2-in. oak, 1-1/2 in. wide, and the

joints halved together. They are hinged to the back of the box as shown;

and when folded are held in place by a simple catch. The weight of the lid

is sufficient to hold the brackets in place when open, but to make sure

they will not creep when in use insert a 1/4-in. dowel in the end of each

so that it protrudes 1/4 in. Drill two holes in the top to the depth of

1/4 in., so that when the top rests on the brackets, these holes engage

with the dowels. In hinging the brackets to the back see that they are

high enough to support the lid at right angles to the box.

The box here shown is made of 7/8 in. white pine throughout. The legs are

7/8 by 2-1/2 by 18 in. They are fastened to the box with ordinary strap

hinges. When folded up against the box they do not come quite to the top

so that the box should be at least 19 in. high for 18-in. legs. About

2 in. from the bottom of the legs drive in a brad so it protrudes 1/8 in.

as shown. This brad engages in a hole in the spring-brass clip when folded

up as shown in the illustration.

If in a fixed camp, it is a good idea to stand the legs in tomato cans

partly full of water. This prevents ants from crawling up the legs into

the box, but it necessitates placing the wire braces higher on the legs.

Our box cost us nothing but the hardware, as we knocked some old packing

boxes to pieces and planed up enough boards to make the sides. Of course,

the builder need not adhere to these dimensions, for he can make the size

to suit his requirements, while the finish is a matter of personal taste.

* * * * *

A blue writing ink is easily made of 1 oz. Prussian

blue, 1-1/2 oz. oxalic acid and 1 pt. of soft water.

Shake and allow it to stand until dissolved.

Wall Pockets in a Tent

When camping I find a few wall pockets sewed to the tent walls at the back

end provide a convenient means to hold the soap, mirror, razor and other

small articles liable to be lost. The pockets can be made of the same

material as the tent and sewed on as a patch pocket.--Contributed by A.

M. Barnes, Atlanta, Ga.

Camp Stoves

The camp stoves illustrated are different forms of the same idea. Both can

be taken apart and laid flat for packing. Iron rods, 1/2 in. in diameter,

are used for the legs. They are sharpened at the lower end so that they

may be easily driven into the ground. The rods of the one shown in the

first illustration are bent in the form of a hook at the upper end, and

two pieces of light tire iron, with holes in either end, are hung on these

hooks. Across these supports are laid other pieces of the tire iron. In

the other stove, the rods have a large head and are slipped through holes

in the four corners of the piece of heavy sheet iron used for the top.

A cotter is slipped through a hole in each rod just below the top, to

hold the latter in place.--Contributed by Mrs. Lelia Munsell, Herington,

Kansas.

[Illustration: Camp-Stove Top, Either Solid or Pieced, Supported on Rods

at the Corners]

Attractor for Game Fish

A piece of light wood, shaped as shown and with four small screweyes

attached, makes a practical attractor for game fish, such as bass, etc.,

by its action when drawn through the water or carried by the flow of a

stream. Hooks are attached to three of the screweyes and the fourth one,

on the sloping surface, is used for the line.--Contributed by Arthur

Vogel, Indianapolis, Ind.

[Illustration: A Device for Attracting Game Fish Which is Used in Place

of Bait]

Simple Photographic-Print Washer

The ordinary washbowl supplied with a faucet may be easily converted

into a washing tray for photographic prints or film negatives. Procure a

medicine dropper from a druggist, and attach it to the faucet end with a

short piece of rubber tubing. Be sure to procure a dropper that has the

point turned at right angles to the body.

[Illustration: The Whirling Motion Set Up by the Forced Stream at an Angle

Thoroughly Washes Prints]

When the water is turned on it is forced through the small opening in the

dropper in such a manner that the water in the bowl is kept in a constant

whirling motion. This will keep the prints on the move, which is necessary

for a thorough washing.

How to Make an Electric Fishing Signal

A unique electric fishing signal, which may be rigged up on a wharf or

pier, and the electric circuit so arranged as to operate an electric bell

or buzzer, located in the fisherman's cottage, or any other convenient

place, may be constructed as follows: Obtain two pieces of 1/16-in. spring

brass, one 6 in. long and 3/4 in. wide, and the other 7 in. long and

1/2 in. wide. Mount a 2-in. brass wood screw, A, in one end of the 6-in.

piece as shown.

[Illustration: Construction of the Parts to Make the Contact Points and

the Electric Connections]

Place over the end of the 6-in. piece a thin sheet of insulating fiber, B,

allowing it to extend down on each side about 1 in. Then bend a piece of

1/16-in. brass, C, over the insulating fiber, allowing it to extend down

on each side the same distance as the insulating fiber. Drill a small hole

through the lower ends of the U-shaped piece of brass, C, the insulation,

B, and the 6-in. piece, while they are all in place. Remove the insulation

and the U-shaped brass piece, and tap the holes in the brass for a machine

screw, D. Enlarge the hole in the 6-in piece, and provide an insulating

bushing for it with an opening of the same diameter as the brass machine

screw. Mount a small binding post, E, on one side of the U-shaped piece of

brass, and the parts may then be put together and held in place by means

of the brass screw.

Drill two holes in the other end of the 6-in piece, also two holes in one

end of the 7-in piece, and rivet them together with two small rivets. The

7-in. piece should project beyond the end of the 6-in. piece. A piece

of thin spring brass should be made into the form of a spiral, F, and

fastened to the upper end of the 7-in. piece. Provision should be made

for attaching the fishline to the inside end of the brass spiral. A small

binding post should be soldered to either the 6-in. or 7-in. piece, at

the bottom.

If the device is set up with the head of the brass adjusting screw in the

top of the 6-in. piece, pointing in the direction the line to the fishing

hook is to run, and if a fish pulls upon the line, the 7-in. piece is

pulled over and touches the point of the adjusting screw. If a battery

and bell, or buzzer, is connected as shown, the circuit will be completed

when the 7-in. piece comes in contact with the adjusting screw, and the

bell will ring.

A Chair Swing

A comfortable porch or lawn swing can be easily and quickly made with a

chair as a seat, as follows. Procure some rope of sufficient strength to

bear the weight of the person, and fasten one end securely to one of the

front legs of the chair and the other end to the same side of the back as

shown in the illustration, allowing enough slack to form a right angle.

Another piece of rope, of the same length, is then attached to the other

side of the chair. The supporting ropes are tied to these ropes and to

the joist or holding piece overhead.--Contributed by Wm. A. Robinson,

Waynesboro, Pa.

[Illustration: The Ropes are Tied to the Chair so That It will be Held in

a Reclining Position]

Another Broom Holder

Of the many homemade devices for holding a broom this is one of the

simplest, and one that any handy boy can make.

[Illustration]

It consists of a string, about 1 ft. long, with a knot at one end and

the other tied to a nail or staple driven into the wall. To hang up the

broom simply turn the string around the handle as shown, and the broom

will be held securely, because its weight will pull the string taut

and the knot at the end will prevent the string from running off the

handle.--Contributed by Jef De Vries, Antwerp, Belgium.

Squaring Wood Stock

The device shown in the sketch is a great help to the maker of mission

furniture as a guide on short cuts. It consists of two pieces of wood, A

and B, preferably of oak, fastened together at right angles by two large

flat-head screws. The pieces should be placed exactly at right angles.

[Illustration: The Saw Teeth Edge can be Run through Both Pieces, the

Stock being in the Corner]

A cut is then made through both pieces. The cut on B should be exactly

at right angles to the surface of piece A. This device can be either

clamped on a board or merely held by hand, and will insure a true

cut.--Contributed by F. W. Pumphrey, Owensboro, Ky.

A Wind Vane

A novelty in wind vanes is shown in the accompanying sketch. The vane can

be made of sheet metal or carved from light wood. The wings are so set on

the body as to cause the dragon to rise when the wind strikes them. The

dragon is pivoted on a shaft running through its center of gravity, so it

will readily turn with the wind. The tail part may also be made to revolve

as the propeller of an aeroplane.

[Illustration]

The length and size of the shaft will depend on the dimensions of the

dragon, and similarly, the location of the weights on the chains will

be determined by its size and weight. Upon these circumstances and the

varying velocities of the wind will depend how high the dragon will rise

on its shaft, and the height reached by it will thus serve to indicate--in

a relative manner only--the velocity of the wind, but it is also possible

to arrange the weights at such distances apart that the dragon will rise

to A in a 20-mile wind, to B in a 30-mile wind, to C in a 40-mile gale,

and so on, with as many weights as desired. This can be done with the aid

of an anemometer, if one can be borrowed for some time, or the device may

be taken to the nearest weather bureau to be set.--Contributed by H. J.

Holden, Ontario, Cal.

* * * * *

Never rock a file--push it straight on filing work.

How to Make a Flutter Ring

The flutter ring is for inclosing in an envelope and to surprise the

person opening it by the revolving of the ring. The main part is made of

a piece of wire, A, bent so that the depth will be about 2 in. and the

length 4 in. Procure or make a ring, 2 in. in diameter. The ring should

be open like a key ring. Use two rubber bands, BB, in connecting the ring

to the wire.

[Illustration: The Shape of the Wire and Manner of Attaching the Rubber

Bands to the Ring]

To use it, turn the ring over repeatedly, until the rubber bands are

twisted tightly, then lay it flat in a paper folded like a letter. Hand

it to someone in this shape or after first putting it into an envelope.

When the paper is opened up, the ring will do the rest.--Contributed by

D. Andrew McComb, Toledo, O.

A Kitchen Utensil Hanger

Every cook knows how troublesome it is to have several things hanging on

one nail. When one of the articles is wanted it is usually at the back,

and the others must be removed to secure it. A revolving rack for hanging

a can opener, egg beater and cooking spoons, etc., takes up less space

than several nails, and places every article within easy reach as well as

providing individual hooks for all the pieces.

[Illustration: The Hook Support Revolves so as to Make Each One Readily

Accessible for Hanging Utensils]

The rack is easily made of a block of wood, 2-1/2 in. in diameter and

1 in. thick; an arm, 3/4 in. wide, 1/4 in. thick and 6 in. long, and a

metal bracket. The arm is fastened to the bracket and the bracket to the

wall. A screw is turned through a loose-fitting hole bored in the end of

the arm and into the disk. Screw hooks are placed around the edge of the

disk as hangers.--Contributed by A. R. Moore, Toronto, Can.

Homemade Hinges for Boxes

A very simple form of hinge can be made as shown in the sketch. It is

merely a matter of cutting out two pieces of flat steel, A, punching holes

in them for screws or nails, and fastening them to the box corners, one on

each side. When the box is open, the lid swings back clear and is out of

the way. A hinge of this kind is very strong. For a light box, the parts

can be cut from tin.--Contributed by Chas. Homewood, Waterloo, Iowa.

[Illustration: Hinge Parts Made of Sheet Metal and Their Use on a Box

Cover]

To Remove Odors from Ice Boxes

An easy way to prevent odors in an ice box is to place a can of coke in

the box. This will take up all gases and prevent milk from tasting of

onions or vegetables which may be kept in the box.

In factories where bad odors are apt to spoil the men's lunches put up in

pails or baskets, a box can be constructed to hold these receptacles and

a large pail of coke placed in it. Anything placed in this box will remain

free from odors, and fresh.--Contributed by Loren Ward, Des Moines, Iowa.

Preventing Window Sash from Freezing to the Sill

When it is cold enough to cause the window sash to freeze fast in the

bathroom and bedrooms not having double sash, much discomfort will be

experienced and the health may even be menaced. I have discovered a

simple method to overcome this difficulty. Lay on the outside sill, close

up against the window frame, a thin, narrow strip of wood, on which the

window can rest when down. This gives a continual current of fresh air

between the sashes at the center, but no unpleasant draft below, and

no amount of dripping and freezing will fasten the window sash upon

it.--Contributed by Mary Murry, Amherst, Nova Scotia.

A Hanger for the Camp

[Illustration]

A garment, or utensil, hanger can be easily made for the camp in the

following manner: Procure a long strap, about 1-1/4 in. wide, and attach

hooks made of wire to it. Each hook should be about 4 in. long and of

about No. 9 gauge wire. Bend a ring on one end of the wire and stick the

other end through a hole punched in the center of the belt. The ring will

prevent the wire from passing through the leather, and it should be bent

in such a manner that the hook end of the wire will hang downward when the

width of the belt is vertical. These hooks are placed about 2 in. apart

for the length of the belt, allowing sufficient ends for a buckle and

holes. The strap can be buckled around a tree or tent pole.--Contributed

by W. C. Loy, Rochester, Ind.

* * * * *

Never stand in a direct line of a swiftly revolving

object, such as an emery wheel.

Locking Several Drawers with One Lock

[Illustration]

A lock for a number of drawers in a bench or cabinet may be applied with

a strip of wood hinged to the cabinet edge so that it will overlap the

drawer fronts, as shown. A hasp and staple complete the arrangement for

use with a padlock.--Contributed by H. W. Hahn, Chicago.

A Lightning-Calculation Trick

By means of a simple arrangement of numbers, a calculation can be made

which will easily puzzle any unsuspecting person. If the two numbers

41,096 and 83 be written out in multiplication form, very few will

endeavor to write down the answer directly without first going through

the regular work. By placing the 3 in front of the 4 and the 8 back of

the 6, the answer is obtained at once, thus: 41,096 × 83 = 3,410,968.

A larger number which can be treated in the same way is the following:

4,109,589,041,096 × 83 = 341,095,890,410,968.

An Adjustable Nutcracker

[Illustration]

The advantage of the nutcracker shown in the illustration is that it

can be adjusted to various-sized nuts. The handles are similar to those

usually found on nutcrackers except that they are slotted at the cracking

end to receive a special bar. This bar is 2 in. long, 1/2 in. wide, and

1/8 in. thick, with 1/8-in. holes drilled in it at intervals to allow for

adjustment. Cotters are used in the holes as pins.

Substitute for a Rubber Stamp

A large number of coupons had to be marked, and having no suitable rubber

stamp at hand, I selected a cork with a smooth end and cut the initials

in it. I found that it worked as well, not to say better, than a rubber

stamp. An ordinary rubber-stamp pad was used for inking. Angular letters

will cut better than curved ones, as the cork quickly dulls the edge of

any cutting tool.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

[Illustration: Initials Cut in a Cork Served the Purpose in the Absence

of a Rubber Stamp]

A Furniture Polish

A good pastelike furniture polish, which is very cheap and keeps

indefinitely, can be made as follows: Mix 3 oz. of white wax, 2 oz. of

pearlash, commonly known as potassium carbonate, and 6 oz. of water. Heat

the mixture until it becomes dissolved, then add 4 oz. of boiled linseed

oil and 5 oz. of turpentine. Stir well and pour into cans to cool. Apply

with a cloth and rub to a polish. The paste is nonpoisonous.

A Hanging Vase

[Illustration]

A very neat and attractive hanging corner vase can be made of a colored

bottle. The bottom is broken out or cut off as desired and a wire

hanger attached as shown. The opening in the neck of the bottle is well

corked. Rectangular shaped bottles fitted with hangers can be used on

walls.--Contributed by A. D. Tanaka, Jujiya, Kioto, Japan.

Filing Soft Metals

It is well known to mechanics that when lead, tin, soft solder or aluminum

are filed, the file is soon filled with the metal and it will not cut.

It cannot be cleaned like the wood rasp by dipping it into hot water or

pouring boiling water over it, but if the file and the work are kept wet

with water, there will be no trouble whatever. Both file and work must be

kept thoroughly wet at all times.--Contributed by J. H. Beebee, Rochester,

N. Y.

Locking Screws in Door Hinges

When screws once work loose in hinges of doors they will never again hold

firmly in the same hole. This trouble can be avoided if the screws are

securely locked when they are first put on the door. The sketch shows

a very successful way to lock the screws. The hole in the hinge for the

screw is filed to produce a notch, as shown at A, deep enough to receive

a small wire nail or brad, which is driven through the slot in the screw

head at one side, as shown at B.

[Illustration: The Screw is Permanently Locked with a Small Nail Driven

into the Slot Prepared for It]

To Remove Grease from Clothing

Equal parts of ether, ammonia and alcohol make a solution that will

readily remove grease from clothing. The solution must be kept away from

fire, and should be contained in corked bottles as it evaporates quickly,

but can be used without danger. It removes grease spots from the finest

fabrics and is harmless to the texture.

* * * * *

Jeweler's rouge rubbed well into chamois skin is handy

to polish gold and silver articles with.

[Illustration: Stove Made of an Old Oilcan with Extending Sides and

Weighted with Sand for Use on a Fishing Boat Holds the Cooking Vessel

Safely in a Sea]

A Canoe Stove By F. V. Williams

Limited space and the rocking motion of salmon-fishing boats in a heavy

sea on the Pacific coast brought about the construction of the canoe stove

shown in the illustration. It is made of a discarded kerosene can whose

form is square. A draft hole is cut in one side of the can, 4 or 5 in.

from the bottom, and a layer of sand placed on the bottom. Two holes are

punched through opposite sides, parallel with the draft hole and about

3 in. from the top edge. Rods are run through these holes to provide a

support for the cooking utensil. The smoke from the fire passes out at

the corners around the vessel.

[Illustration]

The main reason for making the stove in this manner is to hold the cooking

vessel within the sides extending above the rods. No amount of rocking can

cause the vessel to slide from the stove top, and as the stove is weighted

with the sand, it cannot be easily moved from the place where it is set

in the canoe.

The use of such a stove in a canoe has the advantage that the stove can

be cleaned quickly, as the ashes and fire can be dumped into the water and

the stove used for a storage box. The whole thing may be tossed overboard

and a new one made for another trip.

To Prevent Washboard from Slipping in Tub

The modern stationary washtubs are box-shaped, with one side set at an

outward angle or slope. The washboard, when used in these tubs, will slide

up and down against the sloping part of the tub while the clothes are

rubbed against them. This annoying trouble can be avoided by tacking, on

the top edge of the board, strips of rubber cut from a discarded bicycle

tire, placing the rubber side out. The friction of the rubber prevents

any motion of the board.--Contributed by Jas. A. Hart, Philadelphia, Pa.

* * * * *

To print on celluloid, use a good gloss ink and old

rollers.

Clips to Hold Magazine Pages Together

[Illustration]

When a magazine is placed in a bookcase the outer pages are liable to

turn back if it is inserted with the back on the outside. To overcome this

difficulty I made clips for each magazine to hold the open pages together.

Each clip was made of wire, about 8 in. long, shaped as shown. The

width of the clip is made equal to the thickness of the magazine and the

extending ends are slightly pressed together so that they will spring and

grip the pages.--Contributed by W. A. Saul, E. Lexington, Massachusetts.

Slide-Opening Cover for a Plate Holder

The length of time required for the slide of a plate holder to be removed

on a reflecting camera spoiled many of my plates, because strong light

would enter the unprotected slot when the camera was in certain positions.

To protect this slot so that the slide could be left out indefinitely,

I made a cover of a piece of sheet metal having three slots, to admit

screws turned into the camera. A knob was attached at the center. The

illustration shows the application of this cover. In Fig. 1 the plate

holder is shown slipped in with the cover back, and Fig. 2 shows the slide

drawn and the cover over the slot opening.--Contributed by B. J. Weeber,

New York City.

[Illustration: The Two Positions Occupied by the Slide-Opening Cover as

It is Used on a Camera (Fig. 1, Fig. 2)]

Magnetic-Suspension Pendulum

When a pendulum is not periodically supplied with energy its amplitude

grows smaller and finally the motion ceases, due to the resistance of the

air and the friction at the point of suspension. Usually the suspension

is in the form of a knife edge bearing against plates of agate; sometimes

the pendulum rod is simply attached to a very slender and flexible spring

without any bearings. But the minimum of friction is obtained by means of

magnetic suspension, as the following experiment will prove.

If the rod of a pendulum about 12 in. long, beating half seconds, is

sharpened to a needle point and suspended from one of the poles of a

magnet, it will be found that, if set into motion, it will continue to

swing 15 times as long as the ordinary knife-edge suspended pendulum, and

it will not stop until after about 16 hours, while one working on agate

plates will stop in from 50 to 60 minutes. Similarly a top, provided with

a fine-pointed axis of iron, will spin much longer when suspended from a

magnet.

Magnetic suspension is used in precision instruments; for example, the

minute mirrors which are used in certain telegraph systems to register

writing photographically at the receiving end.

Use for Pencil Stubs

[Illustration]

In mechanical drawings cast iron is indicated by a series of straight

lines across the parts made of this material. These lines can be quickly

made with the usually discarded pencil stubs, if these are saved and

sharpened in the following manner: The point is filed flat, as shown at

A; then a slot is filed in the center of the lead with a knife file, as

shown at B, and the points sharpened as in C. In this way two lines are

drawn at one stroke neatly and in half the time.--Contributed by J. Kolar,

Maywood, Ill.

* * * * *

To sharpen a carving knife draw the edge through and

against the open edge of a pair of shears.

[Illustration]

How to Build a Paddle-Wheel Boat By P. A. Baumeister

The paddle-wheel boat, illustrated herewith, was built in the spare time I

had on rainy afternoons and Saturdays, and the enjoyment I derived from it

at my summer camp more than repaid me for the time spent in the building.

The materials used in its construction were:

2 side boards, 14 ft. long, 10 in. wide and 7/8 in. thick.

2 side boards, 14 ft. long, 5 in. wide and 7/8 in. thick.

1 outside keel board, 14 ft. long, 8 in. wide and 7/8 in. thick.

1 inside keel board, 14 ft. long. 10 in. wide and 7/8 in. thick.

120 sq. ft. of tongue-and-groove boards, 3/4 in. thick, for bottom

and wheel boxes.

1 piece, 2 in. square and 18 in. long.

4 washers.

2 iron cranks.

10 screweyes.

30 ft. of rope.

Nails.

The dimensions given in the drawing will be found satisfactory, but these

may be altered to suit the conditions. The first step will be to cut and

make the sides. Nail the two pieces forming each side together and then

cut the end boards and nail them to the sides. Lay this framework, bottom

side up, on a level surface and proceed to nail on the bottom boards

across the sides. The ends of these boards are sawed off flush with the

outside surface of the sides after they are nailed in place. The material

list calls for tongue-and-groove boards for the bottom, but plain boards

can be used, although it is then difficult to make the joint water-tight.

When the tongue-and-groove boards are used a piece of string, well soaked

in white lead or paint and placed in the groove of each board, will be

sufficient to make a tight joint.

Having finished the sides and bottom, the next step will be to fasten

on the bottom keel. Adjust the board to its position and nail it in the

center part where it lies flat on the bottom boards, then work toward

the ends, gradually drawing it down over the turn and nailing it down. If

the keel board cannot be bent easily, it is best to soak it in hot water

where the bend takes place and the wood can then be nailed down without

the fibers breaking. The inside keel is put on in the same manner, but

reversed.

[Illustration: The Boat As It Appears without the Spring and Running Board

and Used as a Pleasure Craft or for Carrying Freight, the Operator Facing

in the Direction of the Boat's Travel]

The next procedure is to make the paddle wheels. The hub for each wheel is

made of a 2-in. square piece of timber, 9 in. long. Trim off the corners

to make 8 sides to the piece, then bore a 3/4-in. hole through its center.

The 8 blades of each wheel, 16 in all, are 17 in. long, 6 in. wide and

3/4 in. thick. One end of each blade is nailed to one side of the hub,

then it is braced as shown to strengthen the wheel.

[Illustration: Detail Drawing of the Boat and One of the Paddle Wheels.

All the Material Required for the Construction is Such That can be Cut

and Shaped with Ordinary Tools Found in the Home Workshop]

The cranks are made of round iron, 3/4 in. in diameter, and they are keyed

to the wheels with large nails in the manner shown. I had a blacksmith

shape the cranks for me, but if one has a forge, the work can be done at

home without that expense. The bearings for the crankshafts consist of

wood, although it is preferable to use for this purpose two large iron

washers, having a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the shaft,

and drill holes in their rims so that they can be screwed to the wheel-box

upright as shown. The bearings thus made are lubricated with a little lard

or grease.

[Illustration: Detail of Paddle-Wheel Fastening, the Springboard

Construction and the Fastening for the Rudder Control]

The paddle-wheel boxes are built over the wheels with the dimensions given

in the drawing, to prevent the splashing of water on the occupants of the

boat.

The trimmings for the boat consist of three seats, a running board and a

springboard. The drawings show the location of the seats. The springboard

is built up of 4 boards, 3/4 in. thick, as shown, only nailing them

together at the back end. This construction allows the boards to slide

over each other when a person's weight is on the outer end. The action of

the boards is the same as of a spring on a vehicle.

It is necessary to have a good brace across the boat for the back end of

the springboard to catch on--a 2 by 4-in. timber being none too large. At

the point where the springboard rests on the front seat there should be

another good-sized crosspiece. The board can be held in place by a cleat

and a few short pieces of rope, the cleat being placed across the board

back of the brace. A little diving platform is attached on the outer end

of the springboard and a strip of old carpet or gunny sack placed on it

to prevent slivers from running into the flesh. In making the spring and

running board, it is advisable to make them removable so that the boat

can be used for other purposes.

The boat is steered with a foot-operated lever, the construction of which

is clearly shown. For the tiller-rope guides, large screweyes are used

and also for the rudder hinges, the pin of the hinge being a large nail.

The hull can be further strengthened by putting a few angle-iron braces

either on the in or outside.

To make the boat water-tight will require calking by filling the cracks

with twine and white lead or thick paint. The necessary tools are a broad,

dull chisel and a mallet. A couple of coats of good paint, well brushed

into the cracks, will help to make it watertight as well as shipshape.

The boat may leak a little when it is first put into the water, but after

a few hours of soaking, the boards will swell and close the openings.

This boat was used for carrying trunks, firewood, rocks, sand, and for

fishing, and last, but not least, for swimming. The boat is capable of

carrying a load of three-quarters of a ton. It draws very little water,

thereby allowing its use in shallow water. It has the further advantage

that the operator faces in the direction the boat is going, furnishing

the power with his hands and steering with his feet.

A Camp Loom

[Illustration: Loom Constructed of Sticks for Weaving Grass or Moss into

a Camp Mattress]

The camper who desires to "rough it" as much as possible and to carry only

the necessities will find it quite a comfort to construct the bedding from

grass or moss by weaving it in the manner of making a rag carpet, using

heavy twine or small rope as the warp. Two stakes are set the width of the

bed or mattress to be made, and a cross stick is attached to their tops.

Several stakes are set parallel with the cross stick and at a distance to

make the length of the mattress. The warp is tied between the tops of the

stakes and the cross stick. An equal number of cords are then attached

to the cross stick and to another loose cross stick which is used to move

the cords up and down while the grass or moss is placed in for the woof.

The ends of the warp are then tied to hold it together. When breaking up

camp the cords can be removed and carried to the next camp.--Contributed

by W. P. Shaw, Bloor West, Can.

A Milk-Bottle Carrier

Carrying a milk bottle by the rim is tiresome work for the fingers, so I

constructed a handle, as shown in the sketch, from a piece of wire. The

carrier can be easily placed in the pocket.

[Illustration: A Carrier Made of Wire to Quickly Attach on a Milk-Bottle

Neck]

The part fitting under the rim of the bottle neck is bent to form two

semicircles, one hooking permanently at A, while the other is hooked at B

after it is sprung around the neck of the bottle.--Contributed by Lawrence

B. Robbins, Harwich, Mass.

How to Make a War Kite By Park Snyder

The material required for the making of a war kite is three pine sticks,

each 60 in. long, one stick 54 in. long, one stick 18 in. long, all

1/2 in. square; 4 yd. of cambric; a box of tacks; some linen thread, and

16 ft. of stout twine.

Place two 60-in. sticks parallel with each other and 18 in. apart, then

lay the 54-in. piece across at right angles to them 18 in. from the upper

ends, as shown in Fig. 1, and fasten the joints with brads. At a point

21 in. below this crosspiece, attach the 18-in. crosspiece.

[Illustration: The Line should be a Very Strong One, Then Banners can be

Flown on It]

The extending ends of all the three long pieces are notched, Fig. 2, and

the line is stretched taut around them, as shown by the dotted lines.

[Illustration: The Sticks are Fastened Solidly with Brads, and the Cloth

Sewed to the String around Their Ends (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4)]

If the cambric is not of sufficient size to cover the frame, two pieces

must be sewed together, then a piece cut out to the shape of the string,

allowing 1 in. to project all around for a lap. The cambric is sewn fast

to the string with the linen thread. Fasten the cloth to the frame part

with the tacks, spacing them 1 in. apart. The space in the center, between

the sticks, is cut out. Make two pieces of the remaining goods, one 36 in.

by 18 in., and the other 36 in. by 21 in. The remaining 60-in. stick is

fastened to these pieces of cambric, as shown in Fig. 3, and the whole is

fastened to the main frame so as to make a V-shaped projection. The bridle

strings, for giving the proper distribution of pull on the line to the

kite, are fastened, one to the upper end of the long stick in the V-shaped

piece attached to the kite, and the other to the lower end, as shown in

Fig. 4. The inclination can be varied to suit the builder by changing the

point of attachment of the kite line to the bridle. If it is desired to

fly the kite directly overhead, attach the line above the regular point

and for low flying make the connection below this point. The regular

point is found by trial flights with the line fastened temporarily to the

bridle, after which the fastening is made permanent.

Paper Glider That Loops the Loop By C. A. Thompson

The usual paper glider shaped as shown in Fig. 1 can be made to loop

the loop and make corkscrew flights if prepared according to sketches

herewith. It should be carefully made in the first place so that in its

regular form it flies perfectly straight.

[Illustration: Ordinary Paper Glider and the Manner of Throwing It to Make

the Different Flights (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4, Fig. 5, Fig. 6,

Fig. 7, Fig. 8)]

To make the glider loop, the rear corners of the wings should be turned up

at right angles, as in Fig. 2, and the glider launched with a great deal

of force with the nose pointed slightly upward. This will require some

practice, but one soon learns the trick. After looping once, as shown in

Fig. 3, the glider descends in volplane. This form of glider will also

right itself, if dropped from a height, nose downward, as shown in Fig. 4.

For a corkscrew flight the glider is prepared as in Fig. 5; one

rear corner being bent up and the other down. In this form it flies

horizontally, or downward, while rapidly rotating around its longitudinal

axis, as shown in Fig. 6.

To make a spiral descent, the rear corners of the wings are bent up as in

Fig. 2, and, further, the rear corner of the keel is bent at right angles,

Fig. 7, whereupon it is thrown in the ordinary manner. It then takes the

course shown in Fig. 8.

A Water Filter

A cheap and very effective water filter can be made of a flower pot by

plugging the hole in the bottom with a piece of sponge and fitting it

as follows: Place powdered charcoal on top of the sponge to a depth of

1 in., then 1 in. of clean silver sand, and lastly 2 in. of small stones

and gravel. It is hung with a bail at the top.

A Combination Electrically Operated Door Lock

The illustration shows a very useful application of an ordinary electric

door lock in the construction of a combination lock and alarm to be

operated from the outside of the building.

[Illustration: The Brass-Tack Heads Holding the Numerals in Place

Constitute the Combination Points]

The three numerals, 1, 2, and 4, or any other combination of numbers

constituting the house number on a door, are made of some kind of

insulating material and fastened in place on a base of insulating fiber,

or wood, about 1/4 in. thick, by means of ordinary brass-headed tacks,

as indicated by the black dots. The tacks will extend through the base

a short distance so the electrical connections may be made by soldering

wires to them, as shown by the diagram, alternate tacks being connected

together with the exception of three; for instance, A, B, and C.

The terminals of the leads that are connected to alternate tacks are in

turn connected to the terminals of a circuit composed of an ordinary

vibrating bell, D, and battery, E. If any two adjacent tack heads be

connected together, except tacks A, B, and C, the bell circuit will be

completed and the bell ring, which will serve as an indication that some

one is tampering with the circuit. The person knowing the combination,

connects the tack heads A and B, and at the same time connects the tack

head C with F or G, or any other tack head that is connected to the plus

side of the battery, whereby a circuit will be completed through the lock

H and the door is opened. Any metallic substance, such as a knife, key,

or finger ring, may be used in making the above indicated connection, and

there will be no need of carrying a key for this particular door so long

as the combination is known.

The base upon which the numbers are mounted and through which the points

of the tacks protrude, should be mounted on a second base that has a

recess cut in its surface to accommodate the wires and points of the

tacks.

The combination may be made more or less complicated, as desired, by

connecting the tacks in different ways, and by using a separate battery

for the bell and lock. The circuit leading to the door lock, if there is

one already installed, may be used and then no extra circuit is needed.

Such a device has been used on a private-desk drawer with entire

satisfaction. The battery was placed in the back end of the drawer, and

if it happened to fail, a new one could be connected to the points B and

J so that the drawer could be opened and a new battery put in.

Lock for a Fancy Hairpin

[Illustration: The Bend in the Pin will Hold in the Hair and Prevent the

Loss of the Pin]

To avoid losing a fancy hairpin, bend one leg of the pin as shown in the

illustration. The hair caught in the notch formed by the bend will prevent

the pin from dropping out.--Contributed by W. C. Loy, Rochester, Ind.

* * * * *

A metal surface polished with oil will keep clean

longer than when polished dry.

[Illustration]

An Aeroplane Kite By W. A. Reich

After building a number of kites from a recent description in Amateur

Mechanics I branched out and constructed the aeroplane kite shown in the

illustration, which has excited considerable comment in the neighborhood

on account of its appearance and behavior in the air.

[Illustration]

The main frame consists of a center-stick, A, 31 in. long, and two

cross-sticks, of which one, B, is 31 in. long and the other, C, 15-1/2 in.

long. The location of the crosspieces on the centerpiece A is shown in the

sketch, the front piece B being 1-3/4 in. from the end, and the rear piece

C, 2-1/4 in. from the other end. The ends of the sticks have small notches

cut to receive a string, D, which is run around the outside to make the

outline of the frame and to brace the parts. Two cross-strings are placed

at E and F, 7 in. from either end of the centerpiece A, other brace

strings being crossed, as shown at G, and then tied to the cross-string

F on both sides, as at H.

[Illustration: The Kite Being Tailless Rides the Air Waves Like an

Aeroplane in a Steady Breeze]

The long crosspiece B is curved upward to form a bow, the center of which

should be 3-1/4 in. above the string by which its ends are tied together.

The shorter crosspiece is bent and tied in the same manner to make the

curve 2-1/2 in., and the centerpiece to curve 1-3/4 in., both upward. The

front and rear parts, between the end and the cross-strings E and F, are

covered with yellow tissue paper, which is pasted to the crosspieces and

strings. The small wings L are purple tissue paper, 4 in. wide at M and

tapering to a point at N.

The bridle string is attached on the centerpiece A at the junction of the

crosspieces B and C, and must be adjusted for the size and weight of the

kite. The kite is tailless and requires a steady breeze to make it float

in the air currents like an aeroplane.

The bridle string and the bending of the sticks must be adjusted until

the desired results are obtained. The bridle string should be tied so that

it will about center under the cross-stick B for the best results, but a

slight change from this location may be necessary to make the kite ride

the air currents properly. The center of gravity will not be the same in

the construction of each kite and the string can be located only by trial,

after which it is permanently fastened.

[Illustration: General Plan and Outline of the Kite, Which may be Built

in Any Size, If the Proportions are Kept, and Its Appearance in the Air

on a Steady Breeze]

Distilling Apparatus for Water

[Illustration: Homemade Still for Removing the Impurities in Water That

is Used in Mixing Chemicals]

Pure water, free from all foreign substances, is frequently wanted for

making up photographic solutions and many other purposes. An apparatus for

distilling water can be very easily made from galvanized pipe fittings.

The outer cooling jacket A is a piece of 1-in. pipe, 2 ft. long, threaded

on both ends, and bored and tapped for 1/2-in. pipe at B and C. A hole

is bored and tapped for 1/2-in. pipe in each of the two caps used on the

ends of the pipe A, and a piece of 1/2-in. pipe, D, 2 ft. 8 in. long,

is run through the holes as shown. The joints are soldered to make them

water-tight. Two 1/2-in. nipples, 4 in. long, are screwed in at B and

C. The retort, or boiler, E, in which the impure water is boiled may be

made of any suitable vessel and heated with a Bunsen or gas burner. A

beaker, or other vessel, F, is placed below the lower end of the small

pipe. The cold water from the faucet, which flows into the outer jacket

at C and out at B, condenses the steam in the small pipe D, turning it

into water which falls into the beaker in large drops. The water is often

distilled a second time to remove any impurities which it might still

contain.--Contributed by O. E. Tronnes, Evanston, Ill.

Telephone Stand for a Sloping Desk

Having a sloping-top desk and being compelled to use the telephone quite

frequently, I devised a support for the telephone so that it might stand

level and not fall off. The sides of the stand were cut on the same slope

as the desk top, and their under edges were provided with rubber strips

to prevent slipping.--Contributed by J. M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

[Illustration: Stand with a Level Surface for a Desk Telephone to be Used

on a Sloping Desk Top]

[Illustration]

Tandem Monoplane Glider By George F. Mace

The monoplane glider illustrated has better fore-and-aft stability than

the biplane, is lighter in proportion to the supporting surface, simpler

to build, and requires very little time to assemble or take apart. The

material list is as follows:

FRAME

4 pieces of bamboo, 14 ft. long, tapering from 1-1/2 to 1 in.

8 pieces of spruce, 1/2 in. thick, 1 in. wide, and 3 ft. long.

8 pieces of spruce, 1/2 in. thick, 1 in. wide, and 2 ft. long.

WINGS

4 main-wing bars, spruce, 3/4 in. thick, 1-1/4 in. wide, and 18

ft. long.

8 wing crosspieces, spruce, 3/4 in. square, and 4 ft. long.

38 wing ribs, poplar or spruce, 1/4 in. thick, 3/4 in. wide, and

64 in. long.

The first thing to do is to make the main frame which is composed of the

four bamboo poles. The poles take the corners of a 2-ft. square space and

are supported with the pieces of spruce that are 2 ft. and 3 ft. long,

the shorter lengths running horizontally and the longer upright, so that

each upright piece extends 1 ft. above the two upper poles. All joints

should be fastened with 3/16-in. stove bolts. The wire used to truss the

glider is No. 16 gauge piano wire. The trussing is done in all directions,

crossing the wires between the frame parts, except in the center or space

between the four poles.

[Illustration: The Start of the Glide should be Made from the Top of a

Hill, Then a Little Run will Carry the Airman Several Hundred Feet through

the Air]

The framework of the main wings is put together by bolting one of the

crosspieces at each end of two wing bars, then another 4 ft. from each

end, whereupon the wing bars are bolted to the main frame. The frame is

then braced diagonally between these pieces. The ribs, spaced 1 ft. apart,

are fastened to this frame with 1-in. brads. The ribs are so bent that the

highest part will be 5 or 6 in. above the horizontal. The bending must be

uniform and is done when fastening them in place.

The material used to cover the wings and rudders is strong muslin. The

cloth is first tacked to the front wing bar, then to the ribs, and sewed

to a wire which is fastened between the ends of the ribs. Large brass-head

tacks should be used through a strip of tape to fasten the cloth to the

ribs. The rear wings are constructed in a similar manner. After the cloth

is in place it is coated with starch or varnish.

[Illustration: Details of Tandem Monoplane Glider, Showing the Main Frame

and Wing Construction, and the Manner of Placing the Crossed Bracing Wires

Between the Parts and to the Wing Ends]

[Illustration]

The two vertical rectangular spaces in the main frame, just under the

rear wings, are covered with cloth to act as a rudder. The upper and lower

bracing wires for the wings are attached with snaps and rings so that the

glider can be easily taken apart.

It is best not to use the glider in a wind greater than 30 miles an hour.

It is started from the top of a hill in the usual manner. Glides can be

made running from 60 to several hundred feet.

Carrier for a Suitcase

Where it is necessary to carry a well filled and heavy suitcase the

light truck shown in the sketch will be a great assistance. The truck is

constructed on the folding plan, similar to a go-cart, and can be carried

on the side of the case. The wheels are those used on a go-cart, with

rubber tires and about 6 in. in diameter. These are fitted to standards

carrying a hinged top piece, the upper ends of the standards being hinged

in a like manner. The standards should be cut to the proper length for the

person carrying the suitcase.--Contributed by Mrs. Harriet M. S. Kerbaugh,

Allentown, Pa.

[Illustration: The Small Truck will Greatly Assist the Carrying of a

Heavily Loaded Suitcase]

Light in a Keyhole

Remove the lock and cut the mortise deep enough to admit a 3-volt battery

lamp with a suitable socket attached. The lamp is then connected to

wires which are concealed and run to a battery of three dry cells in the

basement or other convenient place. A small push button is attached in

the line and placed near the knob on the door. A small recess must be cut

in the mortise so that the light from the lamp will shine directly on the

inside of the plate over the keyhole.--Contributed by Armand F. Lamarre,

St. Remi, Can.

[Illustration]

How to Make a Monoplane Glider By William Grotzinger

A simple glider of the monoplane type can be easily constructed in a small

workshop; the cost of materials is not great and the building does not

require skilled workmen. Select the material with care and see that the

wood is straight-grained and free from knots. The following list of spruce

pieces is required:

4 main wing spars, 3/4 by 1-1/4 in. by 17 ft.

2 rudder spars, 3/4 by 1 in. by 8 ft.

8 wing crosspieces, 3/4 by 3/4 in. by 4 ft.

4 rudder crosspieces, 1/2 by 1/2 in. by 2 ft.

1 piece for main-frame crosspieces, 1/2 by 1 in. by 12 ft.

2 arm pieces, 1-1/2 by 2 in. by 3-1/2 ft.

The following list of poplar pieces is required in making the supports

for the cloth covering on the wings and rudders.

34 main-wing ribs, 1/4 by 3/4 by 64 in.

8 rudder ribs, 1/4 by 1/2 by 36 in.

5 rudder ribs, 1/4 by 3/4 by 48 in.

The following list of oak pieces is needed:

1 piece, 5/8 by 1-1/4 in. by 12 ft.

1 piece, 5/8 by 1-1/4 in. by 6 ft.

1 piece, 3/4 by 3/4 in. by 3-1/2 ft.

2 pieces, 5/8 by 1-1/2 in. by 5 ft.

4 pieces, 3/4 by 1 by 28 in.

In addition to the lists given, four pieces of bamboo, 16 ft. long,

tapering from 1 or 1-1/4 in. at the large end to 3/4 in. at the small end,

are used for the main frame.

[Illustration: Monoplane Glider in Flight]

Construction

The first part to make is the main frame A which is constructed of the

four bamboo poles. They are made into a rectangular frame with crossbars

marked B cut to the right length from the 12-ft. piece of spruce, 1/2 in.

by 1 in. The bars C and D are of oak cut from the 6-ft. piece, 5/8 in. by

1-1/4 in. All of these crossbars are fastened together in rectangular form

by means of stove bolts. The bamboo poles are then bolted to the inner

corners of the frames with 3/16-in. bolts. Place the bolts through the

bamboo close to a joint to prevent splitting. The frame is then rigidly

trussed by diagonal wires marked E crossing all rectangles. The wire used

for trussing all the parts throughout the glider is piano wire, 16 gauge.

The arm pieces are bolted to the sides of the rectangular frames beneath

the wings.

[Illustration: Plan View]

[Illustration: Side Elevation]

[Illustration: Front Elevation]

[Illustration: Wing Bar]

The framework of the main wings or planes should be put together by

bolting the cross struts F at regular intervals on the under side of the

main spars G. Brace the frame diagonally with the piano wire. The ribs

are nailed to the main spars by using 1-in. brads. The ribs are spaced

1 ft. apart, and curved so that the highest part will be 5 in. from the

horizontal. Each rib extends 15 in. back of the rear spar. The rudder is

made in the same manner.

The vertical rudder is made to fold. A small pocket arrangement H is made

from which the rigs of the vertical rudder diverge.

The covering of the wings and rudders should be a good quality of muslin

or some light aeronautical goods. The cloth should be tacked to the front

spar, to the ribs, and then sewn to a wire which connects the ends of the

ribs.

Construct the triangular arrangement marked J to which the wings are

braced. The wing bar supports are shown in the illustration. The bottom

wires are braced to the crossbar K shown in the front elevation.

The bracing wires are all fastened to a snaphook which can be snapped

into the rings at the places marked L. This method will allow one quickly

to assemble or take apart the plane and store it in a small place. The

vertical rudder should be braced from each rib to the front spar of the

horizontal rudder and then braced by the wires M to hold the rudder from

falling back. The rudder is then braced to the main frame and the main

frame is braced by the wires N to the wings. This will hold the plane

rigid. Use snaphooks and eyebolts wherever possible so that the plane can

be quickly assembled.

Assembling

The triangular arrangement J is bolted to the wings and the top wires put

in place. The wings are then put on the main frame and bolted to the bars

marked C and D, after which the bottom wires are fixed in place.

Gliding

Take the glider to the top of a hill, step into the center of the main

frame just a little back of the center of the wings. Put your arms around

the arm pieces, face the wind and run a few steps. You will be lifted off

the ground and carried down the slope. The balancing is done by shifting

the legs. The glides should be short at first, but by daily practice, and,

as the operator gains skill, glides can be made up to a length of several

hundred feet. Do not attempt to fly in a wind having a velocity of more

than 15 miles an hour.

Exerciser for a Chained Dog

The exerciser consists of a disk, 5 ft. in diameter, pivoted in the ground

near the kennel. The disk revolves on a 5/8-in. pin set in a post made of

a 4 by 4-in. piece of timber. The disk is made of common lumber fastened

together with battens on the under side. Our dog seems to enjoy this kind

of exercise.--Contributed by Hazel Duncan, Denver, Colo.

[Illustration: Revolving Disk Exerciser]

A Laboratory Gas Generator

The sketch illustrates a gas generator designed for laboratories where

gases are needed in large quantities and frequently. The shelf holding

the large inverted bottle is of thick wood, and to reinforce the whole

apparatus, a 1-in. copper strip is placed around the bottle tightly and

fastened with screws turned into the woodwork. The shelf above is attached

last, and upon it rests the bottle of commercial acid required in the gas

generation. The pump shown is for use in starting the siphon.

[Illustration: Gas Generator of Large Capacity That will Work

Automatically as the Gas is Removed]

The large bottle used as a generator may be either a 3 or 5-gal. size, and

after it is placed in the position shown, a sufficient amount of the solid

reagent needed in gas generating is placed in the mouth before the exit

tube, leading away below, is fixed in position. If sulphureted hydrogen

is required, ferrous sulphide is used; if hydrogen is required, zinc is

placed within; and to make a carbon dioxide, marble, or its equivalent,

is inserted. Whatever gas is required, a sufficient quantity of the solid

material is put in to last for some time in order not to disturb the

fastenings.

When all is ready, the pump is used gently to start the acid over the

siphon and into the generator from below. The gas generated by the action

of the acid on the solid soon fills the bottle. The screw clamp on the

exit tube is loosened and the gas passes into the bottle of water and

charges it, in the case when sulphureted hydrogen is required. In the

other cases, when sufficient gas has been generated, the screw clamp is

tightened, and the gas soon attains considerable pressure which forces the

acid back out of the generator and into the acid bottle above. The whole

apparatus now comes to an equilibrium, and the gas in the generator is

ready for another use.--Contributed by W. M. Mills, Bakersfield, Cal.

Holding Small Armatures for Winding

Procure a strip of sheet metal, 6 in. long, 1 in. wide, or as wide as

the armature core is long, and 3/32 in. thick. Bend this into a U-shape,

as shown, and file each end similar to the barb on a fishhook. Drill

two holes for a bolt to pass through the sheet-metal ends. Fasten a

screw or bolt in the center of the bend, to be used for gripping in a

chuck or polishing head. Core segments can be quickly wound with this

device.--Contributed by Geo. B. Schulz, Austin, Illinois.

[Illustration: Armature Cores are Easily Revolved to Fill the Core

Openings with Insulated Wire]

[Illustration]

Footstool for Cement Floors

A clerk finding the cement floor of the office uncomfortably cold to

the feet, devised a footstool in the following manner: A shallow box

was procured, and four small truck casters were fastened to the bottom.

A piece of carpet was laid on the inside of the bottom and some old

newspapers placed on top of it. When seated at the desk, he placed his

feet inside the box on the papers. The casters elevated the box from the

cement, just high enough to avoid dampness and cold, and permitted an easy

change of position.--Contributed by L. Alberta Norrell, Gainesville, Ga.

Homemade Telegraph Sounder

The material required to construct a telegraph sounder, like the one shown

in the sketch, consists of two binding posts, magnets, a piece of sheet

metal, and a rubber band. These are arranged as shown, on a wood base

or, better still, on a metal box. In using a metal-box base, be sure to

insulate the connections at the magnet coils and binding posts.

[Illustration: An Inexpensive and Homemade Sounder for Use in Learning

the Telegraph Codes]

This instrument will be found by those studying the telegraph codes to

give good results, equal to any of the expensive outfits sold for this

purpose.--Contributed by Chas. J. La Prille, Flushing, N. Y.

Laboratory Force Filter

The sketch represents a force filter which is well adapted for use in

small laboratories. The water is turned on at the faucet and draws the air

through the side tube by suction, which in turn draws the air in a steady

stream through the Wolff bottles. The tubes may be attached to a filter

inserted in a filter bottle and filtering thus greatly facilitated. The

connection to the faucet can be made, as shown in the detailed sketch,

out of a long cork, by boring a hole large enough to fit the faucet

through the cork and another slanting hole, joining the central hole, on

the side for a pipe or tube. At the lower end of the cork a tube is also

fitted, which may be drawn out to increase the suction. The inclined tube

should be slightly bent at the lower end.--Contributed by W. M. Mills,

Bakersfield, Cal.

[Illustration: A Slight Vacuum is Formed by the Water Flowing through the

Cork, Which Forces the Filter]

Beginner's Helper for Roller Skating

One of the most amusing as well as useful devices for a beginner on roller

skates is shown in the sketch. The device is made of 3/4-in. pipe and

pipe fittings, with a strip of sheet metal 1 in. wide fastened about half

way down on the legs. On the bottom of each leg is fastened an ordinary

furniture caster which allows the machine to roll easily on the floor.

The rear is left open to allow the beginner to enter, then by grasping

the top rail he is able to move about on the floor at ease, without fear

of falling.--Contributed by J. H. Harris, Berkeley, Cal.

[Illustration: Beginner Cannot Fall]

Atmospheric Thermo-Engine

The device illustrated has for its object the production of power in

small quantities with little attention and no expense. All that is

needed to produce the power is common ordinary water, and the device will

continue to operate until the amount of water placed in the receptacle

has evaporated.

[Illustration: Details of the Engine]

The device consists of a rectangular vessel provided with legs and a

cover. Each end of the vessel is provided with an opening, A, adapted to

receive and hold in place plaster-of-paris cups, B. The part extending

into the tank is provided with a wick, C, which reaches to the bottom

of the vessel. A glass tube, D, is provided with a bulb on each end and

partly filled with alcohol, the remaining space being exhausted of air.

The glass tube is secured to a hanger which is pivoted to the bottom of

the vessel.

After a quantity of water has been poured into the vessel and the device

allowed to stand undisturbed for a few minutes, the tube will begin to

move with an oscillating motion. Some of the water in the vessel has

been conducted by means of the wicks C to the bent plaster cups, from the

surface of which it evaporates, thus absorbing latent heat and producing

a lower temperature in the cups than that of the surrounding atmosphere.

The bulb in contact with the cup thus acquires a lower temperature than

the one at the end D, which will result in condensation of the alcohol

vapor within the former. The pressure of the vapor in the lower bulb will

then force the alcohol up the inclined tube into the higher bulb, the

evaporation in the lower bulb maintaining the pressure therein.

When a sufficient quantity of alcohol has been forced into the upper

bulb, it will descend, and thus elevate the other bulb into its cup.

The phenomena just described will be repeated in this bulb and the

oscillation will continue until the water in the vessel has been absorbed

and evaporated.--Contributed by E. W. Davis, Chicago.

A Mirror an Aid in Rowing a Boat

The young oarsman is apt to experience difficulty in keeping a straight

course until he has had some practice. Rowing a boat in a narrow channel

calls for considerable skill to hold a course in mid-stream. A variation

of force in pulling the oars almost instantly results in the rowboat

making a landfall on one or the other of the banks.

[Illustration: The Mirror Attached to a Boat]

The skilled oarsman does not need an appliance that the beginner might

welcome. With the aid of a mirror conveniently supported at a suitable

angle and height before the oarsman's face, the water, the shores and

approaching boats may be seen with distinctness. The mirror may be

set directly in front or a little distance to one side as shown in the

sketch.--Contributed by Thaleon Blake, Sidney, O.

Developing Tray Made of a Tin Can

Obtain a tomato or other can, 5 or 6 in. long and 4 in. in diameter, which

should be secured before it has been opened, says Camera Craft. Cut both

ends exactly half way around, keeping close to the edge, as shown in the

first sketch, and slit it lengthwise to open the side. Trim off the end

pieces to within 1 in. of the center and cut off the surplus tin of the

sides of the can, leaving enough to bend over and form the ends of the

tank as shown in the second sketch.

[Illustration: For Developing Roll Films]

The support, as shown in the last sketch, is made by screwing together

three pieces of wood, the base piece being 6-1/2 in. square and thick

enough to make the tank solid and heavy. Bend the sides of the can over

the edges of the two uprights and tack them firmly to the sides, bending

the tin so as to have a rounded surface that will not scratch the films.

The ends of the can are bent over sharply to form the sides of the tank.

Procure a round wood stick, the length of the tank, place in position,

and fasten with a screw through the tin at both ends. Give the whole tank

two coats of black asphaltum varnish to protect it from the action of the

developer.

White Rubber on Croquet Arches

[Illustration]

A white cloth is usually tied to croquet arches when the game is played

late in the evening. A much better plan is to slip a piece of white rubber

tubing about 1 ft. long on the arch. This tubing can be purchased at any

local drug store. This makes the top part of the arch conspicuous so that

it may be plainly seen in the dark, and, when the tubing becomes soiled

it can be cleaned off with a damp cloth.--Contributed by John Blake,

Franklyn, Mass.

Illuminating an Outside Thermometer

During the season of furnace fires the thermometer outside the north

window becomes of added interest and usefulness in helping one to judge

the proper draft adjustments of the furnace for the night. A pocket

electric flashlamp is convenient for examining the thermometer after dark,

but it is not always at hand, matches are dangerous when lace curtains

are at the window, and besides, the reflection from the glass of both

matches and flashlamp on the inside makes it very difficult to read the

thermometer.

[Illustration]

To avoid these difficulties I attached to my thermometer the device shown

herewith, which consists of a miniature battery lamp placed at the back

of the translucent-glass thermometer and operated by a battery within

the house, the light being turned on by an ordinary push button placed

conveniently inside of the window.

A strip of brass, A, 3/8 in. wide by 1/16 in. thick, was riveted

(soldering will do) to the lower support of the thermometer. The free end

of this brass strip was bent around a disk of hardwood, B, and fastened

to it by three or four small screws in such a manner that the disk made

a circular platform just behind the thermometer scale. This disk was

slightly larger than the mouth of a small, thin tumbler. On the upper

surface of this disk was fastened with shellac and small nails close to

the periphery, a disk of cork, 1/4 in. thick, this cork disk being a close

fit for the mouth of the tumbler. A miniature porcelain electric-lamp

socket was fastened with screws on the cork of the base. Wires were

then run from the lamp socket through the cork and wood disks and the

whole painted with melted paraffin to close all apertures and keep out

moisture. Good rubber-covered electric-light wire will do nicely for the

wiring outside the house, although, if it can be obtained, a piece of

lead-covered paired wire is preferable. These wires must be only long

enough to reach inside the house, where they may be joined to the ordinary

sort of wire used in electric-bell work for connecting with push button

and battery.

A 4-volt lamp of about 2 cp. will be sufficient to illuminate the

thermometer and allow the scale and mercury column to be distinctly seen.

It may be found necessary to make some adjustment by bending the brass

strip in order to bring the lamp centrally behind the scale and at the

proper height to give the best lighting on the range of from 10 to 40

deg. Over the lamp is placed the tumbler for protection from the weather,

and, if desired, half of the tumbler may be painted as a reflector on the

inside with white enamel paint, although, in practice, I have not found

this necessary.

Within the house the push button should be placed at the window where

it can be most conveniently reached when viewing the thermometer, and

connections may be made to the battery regularly used for ringing the

house bells, or to a separate battery of, say, 4 dry cells, placed in

some location, as a closet, near the thermometer.--Contributed by C. F.

A. Siedhof, Winchester, Mass.

How to Make an Automobile Robe

When driving an automobile in cold weather, it is impossible to have

a robe come down over the feet without being in the way so that it is

inconvenient in working the pedals. Procure a common heavy robe and cut

two holes in it about 5 in. from the bottom just large enough for the

toe of the shoes to slip through and bind the edges with cloth or fur.

The 5 in. of robe below the holes should come back under the feet so that

no wind can enter. Make the holes far enough apart so that both outside

pedals can be reached easily and you will have no trouble with your feet.

This robe, with the use of overshoes, will insure comfort in driving a

car.--Contributed by Earl R. Hastings, Corinth, Vt.

Locating a Droplight in the Dark

It is very hard to locate an electric-light globe in a dark room. Anyone

trying to find one by striking the air in its vicinity with one hand,

usually finds that the globe is not there, although the hand may have

passed within 1/2 in. of the globe.

[Illustration: Covering a Wide Range]

The best way to locate a globe is to approach the proximity of the drop

with thumbs touching and fingers extended as shown in the sketch, in which

manner the hands will cover a radius of about 14 in. and offer a better

chance of locating the light quickly than if one groped about with one

hand extended.--Contributed by Victor Labadie, Dallas, Tex.

Lighting a Room for Making Photographs

When it becomes too cold for the amateur photographer to take pictures

outdoors, he generally lays aside his camera and thinks no more about it

until the coming of another spring or summer. While some winter scenes

would make up an interesting part of anyone's collection, it is not always

pleasant to go out to take them.

Some derive pleasure from making groups and portraits, but this is very

difficult, if the room is not well lighted. Overhead light is the best

for this work and few residences are constructed to furnish this kind of

light.

[Illustration: Light Reflected on Ceiling]

I find a very good way to get a light overhead is to take a large

mirror--one from an ordinary dresser will do--and place it in the window

in such a position that the reflection will strike the ceiling just

above the subject. The result will be a soft but very strong light,

almost equal to a north skylight. Splendid portraits can be made in this

way.--Contributed by Chas. Piper, Kokomo, Ind.

Detachable Hinged Cover for Kettles

A kettle cover equipped with the hinge shown in Fig. 1 will not fall off

when in place, and can be raised or removed entirely when desired.

[Illustration: Wire Clasps on Hinge (Fig. 1, Fig. 2)]

One wing of an ordinary hinge is soldered or riveted to the cover and wire

clasps soldered to the other wing. It is slipped on the kettle as shown

in Fig. 2. The cover is interchangeable and can be placed on almost any

kettle.

A Use for Discarded Wafer Razor Blades

A paper trimmer and mat cutter can be made from a wafer razor blade. As a

paper trimmer, place the blade C over the part A of the razor, as shown,

with only two of the holes engaging in one post and the center screw.

Then place the part B in position and clamp with the handle. This will

allow about 1/2 in. of the blade to project at one end. If a part of the

extending blade is cut or broken off, it will be more easily handled. The

cutter is guided along the straightedge as shown in Fig. 1.

[Illustration: (Fig. 1)]

If it is desired to make a more permanent form of instrument, or if no

holder is at hand and only a castoff wafer blade, a handle, C, may be cut

from a piece of wood and fitted with two or three binding-posts, A, taken

from an old battery, to hold the blade B in place, as shown in Fig. 2.

[Illustration: Blade Attached to Handle (Fig. 2)]

Armatures for Small Motors

Without the proper tools and material, the amateur electrician will find

it quite difficult to construct a small armature for a battery motor that

will run true, without vibration and have a neat appearance. Ordinary

cast-iron gears or pinions, as shown in Fig. 1, make excellent cores for

armatures on small motors. A gear of any number of teeth can be used for

an armature with a smaller number of coils by cutting out a certain number

of teeth. For example, a gear with 12 teeth will take 12 coils, but if

every other tooth is cut out, it will take only 6 coils, etc. The teeth

can be easily chipped out with a cold chisel.

[Illustration: Gear Used as a Core (Fig. 1, Fig. 2)]

Larger armatures can be made from gears with spokes, the spokes being cut

out, if a ring armature is desired. The gear, when wound, can be mounted

on a hub made of empty thread spools. The spool can be turned at one end

to insert it in the armature, and if too long, one end will serve for the

core of the commutator, as shown in Fig. 2. This combination will make a

neat, efficient little armature, which will run quite free from vibration.

Only simple tools, such as a hammer, cold chisel, file, jackknife and a

vise, are required.--Contributed by R. J. Nault, Hartford, Conn.

Ice Creeper for Shoe Heels

Many persons, young and old, have falls every winter on the ice or snow

which can be avoided if their shoes are fitted with ice creepers. A very

efficient device of this kind, which any boy can make at home in a short

time, is shown in the sketch. These ice creepers need not be removed from

the shoes or boots until the winter is past, for they may be worn indoors

without injuring the finest floor.

The two plates A may be made from either iron or steel--preferably the

latter. An all-steel scraper, or a piece of a saw blade, makes good

creepers. Draw the temper by heating the steel to a cherry red and then

letting it cool slowly. It may then be sawn with a hacksaw, cut with a

cold chisel, or filed into plates of the proper shape, as shown. The teeth

are filed to points. The two L-shaped slots are made by drilling 3/16-in.

holes through the plates, and then sawing, filing or chiseling out the

metal between the holes. The projections at the ends are then bent out at

right angles with heavy pliers or the claws of a hammer, and finally the

plates bent to fit the curve of the heel.

[Illustration: Creeper Attached to Heel]

The creepers are attached by means of round-head wood screws turned into

the leather. In this operation place the teeth of the plates just below

the bottom of the heel and turn the screws into the ends of the upright

slots until the heads just bind. The plate as set when indoors or else not

needed is shown at B. To place the plate so it will grip the ice, slide

it to the right, which will bring the screws into the horizontal slots,

as shown at C.--Contributed by Chelsea C. Fraser, Saginaw, Mich.

Opening Screw-Top Fruit Jars

[Illustration]

Screw-top fruit jars may be easily opened in the following manner: Secure

a strap with a buckle and place it around the top as if it were to be

buckled, but instead draw the loose end back and hold it with the thumb

as shown. Turn cover and strap while held in this position and it will

easily turn from the jar.--Contributed by Chas. A. Bickert, Clinton, Iowa.

Lamp-Chimney Cleaner

Lamp chimneys of various makes are very difficult to clean quickly and

thoroughly. The simple device shown in the sketch makes the cleaning

process a simple matter. The cleaner is made of a round rubber ball with

slits cut in it as shown and then fastened to the end of a stick. When

a cloth is placed over the ball it presses evenly against the curved

surfaces of the glass. There is no danger of breaking a chimney with this

cleaner.