A Pop-Corn Popper
[Illustration]
The accompanying sketch shows the construction of a pop-corn popper for
thoroughly flavoring the corn with the hot butter or lard, and at the same
time mixing it with the necessary amount of salt. Procure a metal bucket
that just fits the bottom of the frying pan. The stirring device is made
of heavy wire bent as shown and provided with an empty spool for a handle.
A brace is made of tin bent in the shape shown and riveted to the bottom
of the bucket.--Contributed by F. A. Wirth, Farwell, Texas.
A Homemade Floor Polisher
An efficient and cheap floor polisher may be readily constructed in the
following manner: Make a box about 4 by 6 by 12 in., or the exact size
may be determined by building it around the household flatirons as these
are used to give weight and pressure. The handle, which is attached as
shown, should be at least 2-1/2 in wide at the hinged end and should
be sandpapered where it is grasped by the hands. A half-strap hinge is
preferable, with the strap part fastened to the handle. The bottom of the
polisher is covered with a piece of Brussels carpet.
[Illustration: Flatirons in the Box]
In use, it is well to set the polisher on a soft piece of cotton or
flannel cloth, which may be readily renewed when badly soiled.
A more sightly polisher may be made by filling the box with pieces of old
iron or lead, tightly packed with paper to prevent rattling, and attaching
a cover over the top. The handle may be hinged directly to this cover by
means of a full-strap hinge.--Contributed by B. O. Longyear, Ft. Collins,
Colo.
Simple Way to Mark Poison Bottles
[Illustration]
A way to prevent any possible mistake of taking bottles containing poisons
is to mark them as shown in the sketch. This method provides a way to
designate a poison bottle in the dark.
The marker is made of a circle of heavy cardboard with a hole in the
center so as to fit tightly over the neck of the bottle. No matter how
dark it may be or how much of a hurry a person may be in, one cannot
fail to note the character of the contents of the bottle as soon as the
hand touches the cardboard marker.--Contributed by Katharine D. Morse,
Syracuse, N. Y.
Removing Varnish
A good and easy way to remove varnish from old furniture is to wash the
surface thoroughly with 95-per-cent alcohol. This dissolves the varnish
and the wood can then be cleaned with a strong solution of soap, or weak
lye. If lye is used, it should be washed off quickly and the wood dried
with flannel cloth. When the wood is thoroughly dry it will take a fine
finish.--Contributed by Loren Ward, Des Moines, Iowa.
Curling-Iron Heater
The curling-iron holder shown in the sketch can be made of metal tubing
having the size to fit both iron and gas jet. One-half of the tubing for
a portion of its length is removed, as shown in Fig. 1. The remaining part
is bent as in Fig. 2 and set on the burner of the gas jet.
[Illustration: Heater on Gas Jet (Fig. 1, Fig. 2)]
The tube prevents the curling iron from becoming black with soot. The
position on the jet may be changed. The tube can be placed on the jet and
removed with the curling iron.--Contributed by W. A. Jaquythe, Richmond,
Cal.
* * * * *
A whisk broom is the best cleaner for a gas stove. It
will clean dirt from nickel parts as well as from the
burner, grates, ovens and sheet-metal bottoms.
Preserving Flowers in Color and Form
One of the most distressing sides of botanical study is the short life of
the colors in flowers. Those who have found the usual method of preserving
plants by pressure between paper unsatisfactory will be interested to
learn of a treatment whereby many kinds of flowers may be dried so that
they retain a great deal of their natural form and color.
The flowers should be gathered as soon as the blossoms have fully opened.
It is important that they should be quite dry, and in order to free them
of drops of rain or dew, they may be suspended with heads downward for a
few hours in a warm place. It is well to begin with some simple form of
flower.
[Illustration: Placing the Flowers on the Steel Pins...]
A large, strongly made wooden box--one of tin is better--will be
necessary, together with a sufficient amount of sand to fill it. If
possible, the sand should be of the kind known as "silver sand," which is
very fine. The best that can be procured will be found far from clean, and
it must, therefore, be thoroughly washed. The sand should be poured into
a bowl of clean water. Much of the dirt will float on the surface. This
is skimmed off and thrown away, and clean water added. The sand should be
washed in this manner at least a dozen times, or until nothing remains
but pure white grains of sand. The clean sand is spread out to dry on a
cloth in a thin layer. When thoroughly dry, it should be placed in a heavy
earthenware vessel and further dried in a hot oven. Allow it to remain in
the oven for some time until it is completely warmed through so that one
can scarcely hold the bare hands in it.
[Illustration: ...and Pouring the Dry Sand around Them]
Obtain a piece of heavy cardboard and cut it to fit easily in the bottom
of the box. Through the bottom of the cardboard insert a number of steel
pins, one for each of the flowers to be preserved. Take the dry blossoms
and press the stalk of each on a steel pin so that it is held in an
upright position. When the cardboard is thus filled, place it in the box.
[Illustration: The Dried Flowers]
The warm sand is put in a bag or some other receptacle from which it
can be easily poured. Pour the sand into the box gently, allowing it to
trickle slowly in so that it spreads evenly. Keep on pouring sand until
the heads of the flowers are reached, taking care that all of them stand
in a vertical position. The utmost care must be taken, when the heads are
reached, to see that all the petals are in their right order. Remember
that any crumpled flowers will be pressed into any position they may
assume by the weight of the sand. When the box is filled it should be
covered and set aside in a dry place.
The box should be allowed to stand at least 48 hours. After the first day,
if only a small amount of sand has been used, the material may have cooled
off to some extent, and the box must be set in a moderately heated oven
for a short time, but no great amount of warmth is advisable. After 48
hours the box may be uncovered and the sand carefully poured off. As the
flowers are now in a very brittle condition, any rough handling will cause
serious damage. When all the sand has been emptied, the cardboard should
be removed from the box and each blossom taken from its pin. In the case
of succulent specimens, the stems will have shrunk considerably, but the
thinner petals will be in an almost natural condition. The colors will be
bright and attractive. Some tints will have kept better than others, but
most of the results will be surprisingly good. Whatever state the flowers
are in when they are taken from the box, if the drying process has been
thorough, they will keep almost indefinitely.
Flowers preserved in this manner are admirable for the decoration of
homes. If they are exposed to light, care should be taken to see that the
direct sunshine does not strike them, as it will fade the colors. Sprigs
with leaves attached may be dried in this way, but it has been found that
much of the intensity of the green is lost in the process.
Reading Pulse Beats with the Sun's Rays
The pulse beats may be counted by this unusual method. On a clear day,
when the sun is shining brightly, darken a room and select one window
toward the sunlight, which should be prepared as follows: Draw the curtain
part way down and cover the rest of the window with a heavy cardboard.
Cut a small hole in the cardboard to admit a beam of light. Set a bowl
of water on a table in the path of the beam so as to deflect it to the
ceiling as shown by the dotted lines in the sketch.
[Illustration: Sun's Rays Deflected to the Ceiling]
It is now a simple matter to show the pulse beats. Place the wrist against
the edge of the bowl as shown, and the beam of light directed to the
ceiling will record every beat of the pulse by short, abrupt movements.
Artistic Wood Turning
Some very odd and beautiful effects can be obtained in lathe work by
making up the stock from several pieces of various kinds of wood glued
together. The pieces can be arranged in many pleasing combinations, and if
good joints are made and a good quality of glue used, the built-up stock
is just as durable as a solid piece.
Candlesticks turned from built-up stock are especially attractive, parts
of the various light and dark woods appearing here and there in all manner
of odd shapes and proportions. If the stock is placed off center in the
lathe, a still greater variety of effects will be produced.
The application of a potassium-bichromate solution to the finished work
turns each piece a different color. This solution can be made in any depth
of color by varying the amounts of potassium salt and water. Maple or
birch treated with this solution are colored to a rich Osage orange which
cannot be surpassed in beauty. Mahogany is turned a deep reddish brown,
and walnut is darkened a great deal. The solution is applied as evenly as
possible with a camel's-hair brush while the wood is turning in the lathe.
The grain of the wood is somewhat roughened by this process, but it can
be dressed down again with very fine sandpaper.
[Illustration: Vase Made of Different Woods]
In polishing the work, only the best shellac should be used, and several
thin coats applied rather than one or two heavy ones. Each coat, with the
exception of the last, should be sandpapered slightly. Powdered pumice
stone on a cloth held in the palm of the hand can be used to apply a
beautiful luster. Some suggestions as to the manner of combining various
woods, and a simple candlestick of mahogany and maple are shown in the
sketch.--Contributed by Olaf Tronnes, Wilmette, Ill.
A Variable Condenser
A simple variable condenser for receiving in wireless, which will give
good results, was made by a correspondent of Modern Electrics as follows:
Each clip on the switch was made of ribbon brass or copper in the shape
shown at A, the first one from the joint of the knife switch being
the longest and each succeeding one shorter. The handle was taken from
a single-pole switch. The case was made of oak and varnished and the
condenser was made of tinfoil and thin sheets of mica, 2 by 3 in. in size.
After placing the condenser in the case, hot paraffin was poured around
it.
[Illustration: Lever and Clips]
Adjustable Baking-Pan Shoes
At times bread, meat, or other food, placed in ordinary baking pans in the
oven becomes burned on the bottom. If the detachable metal strips shown
in the sketch are placed on the pan, this will not happen, as the pan does
not come in direct contact with the oven floor.
[Illustration: Shoe and How It is Attached to the Pan]
The attachment can be placed on agate ware or sheet-iron pans of any
length. The shoes are made from light V-shaped metal strips and in two
parts, as shown, with the edges of one part lapped over so that the other
strip will slide in it.
[Illustration: Cars Lined Up Ready for the Start and the Course Patrolled
by the Boy Scouts, All Traffic being Halted for the Race and the Roadway
Made Clear for the Entire Half Mile of Track]
A Pushmobile Race
Pending the time set for a 500-mile international automobile race that was
scheduled to take place several weeks later, a number of boys in the sixth
and seventh grades of a public school were enthusiastic over the idea of
building for themselves, in the school shops, pushmobiles and having a
race meet similar to the large one advertised.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration: The Cars Winning the First, Second and Third Prizes
Respectively, the "Hoosier" being Penalized 10 Yards at the Starting Tape
for Having Larger and Better-Grade Wheels]
The pushmobiles were made and the race run as an opening feature of a
field meet held in the city. The course was about a half mile long, and
was chosen to give the contestants plenty of curves, a part of the run
being over brick streets and the final quarter on the regular track where
the field meet was held.
Interest was added to the event by petitioning the mayor of the city for
a permit to run the race, and the Boy Scouts patrolled the route, while
the city policemen cleared the streets, and during the race all traffic
was halted.
Two of the requirements for entering the race were that the car had to be
made in the school shops and that it must have a certain kind of a wheel,
which in this case was one condemned by a local factory, thus making the
wheels and wheel base of all cars alike. Two boys to a car constituted a
racing team, and during the race they could exchange positions at their
pleasure. The necessity of "nursing" their cars down the steep grades and
around difficult corners developed into an important factor. All cars were
named and numbered.
The car that finished first was disqualified for the reason that it took
on a fresh pusher along the course.
The cars were constructed under the supervision of the regular shop
instructor, and a drawing was furnished each boy making a car. The design
of the hood and the arrangement of the seat and steering gear was left
for each boy to settle as he desired. The matter of expense was watched
closely by each one. Most of the hoods and seats were constructed of empty
dry-goods boxes.
[Illustration: The Entire Chassis was Made of Cypress Wood, All Cars
of the Same Length and Width, the Hoods and Seats Being the Only Parts
Optional in Size and Shape for the Builder]
With the aid of the sketch any boy can make a car as strong as the
"Peugeot" that won the race. The side rails of the main frame were made
of cypress, 58 in. long and 2 in. square. The location of the crossbars A
and B is very important, as they give rigidity to the frame and reinforce
the two bolsters C and D. The size of the hood and the location of
the seat determine where they should be set into the rail, after which
they are fastened with large wood screws. The three bolsters C, D, and
E are cut from regular 2 by 4-in. stock. Be careful to get a uniform
distance between the rails when they are framed together. If desired, the
dimensions can be increased, but do not reduce them, as this will narrow
the tread too much. The bolt connecting the bolsters C and E is a common
carriage bolt, 5 in. long and 1/2 in. in diameter. A washer is placed
between the pieces C and E, to make the turning easy.
Two pieces of 1/2-in. soft-steel rod were used for the axles, a hole being
drilled near each end for a cotter, to hold the wheels in place, and also
holes through the diameter between the wheels, for 1-1/2-in. screws to
fasten the axles to the bolsters.
The steering wheel is constructed of a broom handle with a small wheel
fastened to its upper end, and the lower end supported by a crossbar, F,
and the back end of the hood. Before fastening the crossbar F in place,
adjust the steering wheel to the proper height for the seat; then it is
fastened with nails driven through the sides of the hood.
The construction of the steering device is very simple. The crossarm G is
a piece of timber, 7 in. long, 2 in. wide and 1 in. thick, rounded on the
ends and provided with a large screw eye near each end on the under side
to which are fastened the ends of two small-linked chains. The chains are
then crossed and fastened to the bottom bolster in front and as near the
wheels as practical. The connection is made with a screw eye similar to
the one used in the crossarm. Another type of steering device may be made
by building on the rod a 5-in. drum which takes the place of the steering
arm. It is a more positive appliance, but is somewhat harder to make and
adjust.
The making of the hood and the seat completes the car. Decide upon the
shape and size of the hood, but, in any case and irrespective of the
size, it will require a front and back end. These are made first and then
secured at the proper distance apart with two side rails. These two ends
are nailed on the ends of the connecting rails. It is then well to fasten
the hood skeleton to the car frame and cover it after the steering device
is in place.
The seat bottom is cut the shape desired, and fastened to the rear bolster
and crosspiece, first placing a piece of the proper thickness under the
front edge, to give it the desired slant backward. The back curved part
can be formed of a piece of sheet metal and lined on the inside with wood
pieces, or with cloth or leather, padded to resemble the regular cushion.
Pencil Rack
The simple pencil rack shown in the sketch can be easily made from any
suitable strip of metal, preferably brass of about No. 15 gauge. Mark
off a number of rectangles corresponding to the number of pencil holders
desired. With a sharp chisel, cut through the metal on three sides of
each rectangle, leaving one of the short sides untouched. The loose
laps can then be bent to a shape suited to hold a pencil. The rack can
be fastened in place with nails or screws through holes pierced at each
end.--Contributed by Mark Gluckman, Jersey City, N. J.
[Illustration: A Strip of Sheet Metal Cut and Clips Formed to Make a
Pencil Rack]
* * * * *
Indistinct but not entirely worn-off dates on coins
may be read by heating slightly.
Reducing Size of a Hat Sweatband
Very often a hat has been worn for some time and it becomes too loose
on the head, then paper is used in the sweatband to reduce the size. A
better, easier, and neater method, as well as one that will be cooler for
the head, is to insert a flat lamp wick inside of the sweatband. Wicks of
all thicknesses and widths are easily obtained.--Contributed by Maurice
Bandier, New Orleans, La.
A Catapult
The catapult shown in the sketch is one I constructed some time ago and
found to be amusing and very inexpensive. The catapult consists of a small
piece of dowel or pine, whittled into the shape of a handle, a screweye,
an elastic band and an arrow. It is surprising how a well-balanced
arrow will fly into the sky until lost to sight when propelled through
the eye of the screw with a medium-strong elastic. A number of forms of
this simple gun were made, but the one shown is the simplest and most
effective.--Contributed by C. A. Needham, New York, N. Y.
[Illustration: The Eye of the Screw Serves as a Guide for the Arrow]
Growing Clean Strawberries
A very good method of growing individual strawberry plants that will
produce large clean berries is to provide a covering constructed from a
board 10 in. square with a 3-in. hole bored in the center. This covering
is placed over the plant, as shown in the sketch, to keep down weeds,
retain moisture, and to make a base for the ripening berries. A shower
cannot spatter dirt and sand on the growing fruit. The rays of the sun
beating on the surface of the board will aid in the ripening.
[Illustration: Growing Strawberries on the Surface of a Board Where They
will Ripen Fast and Keep Clean]
If a log can be obtained, the boards can be made better and more quickly.
Disks about 1 in. thick are sawed from the log and holes in their centers
either cut with a chisel or bored, as desired. The grain of the wood
will be vertical and no warping will take place--Contributed by Johnny
Banholster, Gresham, Oregon
A Magic Change Card
Procure two cards, the "5" of diamonds and the "5" of spades, for example.
Bend each exactly in the center, with the face of the cards in, and then
paste any card on the back, with its face against the two ends of the
bent cards. The two opposite ends will then have their backs together, and
these are also pasted. The illustration clearly shows this arrangement.
[Illustration: A Card Having Two Faces, Either of Which can be Shown to
the Audience Instantly]
To perform the trick pick up this card, which is placed in the pack
beforehand, and show to the audience both the front and back of the
card, being sure to keep the center part flat against one end or the
other, then pass the hand over the card, and in doing so catch the center
part and turn it over. The card can be changed back again in the same
manner.--Contributed by R. Bennett, Pittsburgh, Pa.
Cleaning Pearl Articles
A good way to clean pearl articles or ornaments is to moisten them with
alcohol and then dry in magnesia powder or French chalk. These last two
articles may be purchased at any drug store and the process of cleaning
is absolutely harmless. It also polishes the pearl and will not bleach
delicate colors.
Bed for a Camp
A quickly made bed for a camp is shown in the illustration. The corner
posts consist of four forked stakes driven in the earth so that the
crotches are on a level and about 1 ft. from the ground. Poles are laid
in the crotches, lengthwise of the bed, and canvas covering double-lapped
over them. If desired, the canvas can be stitched along the inside of the
poles.--Contributed by Thomas Simpson, Pawtucket, R. I.
[Illustration: Canvas Bed Made on Two Poles Laid in the Crotches of Forked
Stakes]
Sail for a Boy's Wagon
Every boy, who loves a boat and has only a wagon, can make a combination
affair in which he can sail even though there is no water for miles
around. One boy accomplished this as shown in the illustration, and the
only assistance he had was in making the sails.
[Illustration: The Sail Wagon will Travel at a Good Speed in a Stiff
Breeze]
The box of the wagon is removed and the boat deck bolted in its place.
The deck is 14 in. wide and 5 ft. long. The mast consists of an old rake
handle, 6 ft. long; the boom and gaff are broomsticks, and the tiller is
connected with wire to the front axle, which gives perfect control of the
steering. The sails are made of drilling.
On a brick pavement the sail wagon can draw two other wagons with two boys
in each, making in all five boys. Of course a good wind must be blowing.
With two boys it has made a mile in five minutes on pavement.--Contributed
by Arthur Carruthers, Oberlin, Ohio.
Extracting a Broken Screw
A screw will often break off in a piece of work in such a manner that it
is quite impossible to remove it by using a pair of pliers or a wrench.
In this case the following method is very efficient and expedient.
Drill a small hole in the screw as near the center as possible. Roughen
the edges on the tang of a file with a cold chisel, and drive the tang
into the hole with a mallet. The roughened edges of the tang exert enough
friction on the metal to remove the screw by turning the file in the
proper direction.
Keeping Out Dampness
A good way to keep a bed from becoming damp, if left for any length of
time, is to place a blanket on the top after it is made up. Take the
blanket off before using and the bed covers will be quite dry, as the
blanket absorbs the moisture.--Contributed by G. Nordyke, Lexington, Ore.
A Double-Claw Hammer for Pulling Nails Straight
A nail pulled with an ordinary claw hammer will be bent in the operation,
and for this reason the double claw is used to draw the nail straight
out of the wood. An ordinary claw hammer can be easily converted into
a double-claw by filing out one of the claws as shown. The notch is
filed only large enough to slip under the head of an average-size
nail. After drawing the nail a short distance in the usual manner the
small notch is set under the head of the nail which is then pulled out
straight.--Contributed by J. V. Loeffler, Evansville, Ind.
[Illustration: The Small Notch on the End of the Claw Makes It Easy to
Pull a Nail Straight]
[Illustration]
A Cyclemobile By Frank Pfefferle
The cyclemobile is of the three-wheeled type and can be easily constructed
in the home workshop with ordinary tools. The main frame is built up
of two sidepieces, AA, Fig. 1, each 2 in. thick, 4 in. wide, and 7 ft.
long, joined together at the front end with a crosspiece, B, of the same
material, 17 in. long. The sides are placed slightly tapering so that the
rear ends are 11 in. apart at the point where they are joined together
with the blocks and rear-wheel attachments. A crosspiece, C, 13 in. long,
is fastened in the center of the frame.
[Illustration: Three-Wheeled Cyclemobile Propelled Like a Bicycle and
Steered as an Automobile]
The place for the seat is cut out of each sidepiece, as shown by the
notches at D, which are 2 ft. from the rear ends. Two strips of wood, E,
1/2 in. thick, 4 in. wide, and 22 in. long, are fastened with nails to the
rear ends of the sides, as shown. The rear wheel is a bicycle wheel, which
can be taken from an old bicycle, or a wheel may be purchased cheaply at
a bicycle store. It is held in place with two pieces of strap iron, F,
shaped similar to the rear forks on a bicycle, and each piece is bolted to
a block of wood 3 in. thick, 4 in. wide, and 6 in. long, which is fastened
to the sidepiece with the same bolts that hold the strap iron in place.
The blocks are located 20 in. from the rear ends of the sidepieces.
[Illustration: Detail of the Parts for Constructing an Automobile-Type
Foot-Power Car (Fig. 1)]
[Illustration: (Fig. 2)]
The pedal arrangement, Fig. 2, consists of an ordinary bicycle hanger,
with cranks and sprocket wheel set into the end of a piece of wood, 2 in.
thick, 4 in. wide and 33 in. long, at a point 4 in. from one end. The
pieces GG are nailed on across the frame at the front end of the car,
to hold the hanger piece in the center between the sidepieces, as shown
in Fig. 1. A small pulley, H, is made to run loosely on a shaft fastened
between the sidepieces. This is used as an idler to keep the upper part
of the chain below the seat.
[Illustration: (Fig. 3)]
The front axle is 30 in. long, pivoted as shown at J, Fig. 3, 6 in. from
the front end of the main frame. Two small brass plates, KK, are fastened
with screws on the under edge of each sidepiece, as shown, to provide a
bearing for the axle. The front wheels are taken from a discarded baby
carriage and are about 21 in. in diameter.
[Illustration: (Fig. 4)]
A good imitation radiator can be made by cutting a board to the dimensions
given in Fig. 4. A large-mesh screen is fastened to the rear side to
imitate the water cells.
[Illustration: (Fig. 5)]
The steering gear L, Fig. 5, is made of a broom handle, one end of which
passes through the support M and fits into a hole bored into the lower
part of the imitation radiator board. A steering wheel, N, is attached
to the upper end of the broom handle. The center part of a rope, O, is
given a few turns around the broom handle, and the ends are passed through
the openings in screweyes, PP, turned into the inner surfaces of the
sidepieces AA, and tied to the front axle.
[Illustration: (Fig. 6)]
The seat is constructed of 1/2-in. lumber and is built in the notches cut
in the main frame shown at D, Fig. 1. The body frame is made of lath, or
other thin strips of wood, that can be bent in the shape of the radiator
and nailed to the sidepieces, as shown in Fig. 6. These are braced at the
top with a longitudinal strip. The frame is then covered with canvas and
painted as desired.
How to Make a Humidor
The humidor is an ideal gift for any person who smokes. The wood for
making one, as shown in the illustration, may be of Spanish cedar,
mahogany, or quartered oak, as the builder desires. The box and cover
are made and glued together in one piece, then the cover is sawed off to
insure a perfect fit. A strong corner connection is shown at A. A piece of
a strawberry box or peach basket makes a good key to glue in the grooves.
Care must be taken to run the grain with the width and not with the length
of the strip.
[Illustration: The Amount of Moisture within the Box is Shown on the Dial
in the Cover]
Finish the outside of the box with two coats of the desired stain, then
cover with a coat of wax, shellac, or varnish. The inside should be
finished with one coat of white lead and two or three coats of white
enamel, to make the wood impervious to moisture.
In the center of the cover top is set a piece of glass and to the under
side of the latter a hygrometer is attached with a little glue. This
instrument tells the relative humidity, or the amount of moisture, in
the air within. The moisture may be regulated by adding a few drops of
water, as needed, to a piece of ordinary blotting paper placed on the
inside.--Contributed by James T. Gaffney, Chicago.
Telephoto Attachment for a Hand Camera
It is not necessary to purchase an expensive telephoto lens for a box or
hand camera if the owner has a pair of opera or field glasses. First focus
the glasses on the distant object to be photographed and then set the
camera. One of the glasses is placed directly in line with and in front of
the camera lens, as shown in the sketch. If the camera is of the focusing
type, it is focused in the ordinary manner. Box and other cameras are set
as usual.
[Illustration: A Field Glass Placed in Front of a Camera Lens will
Increase the Diameter of the Photograph]
The glasses should be well supported in front of the camera lens, as any
slight move will be quite perceptible on the ground glass. As the light
rays are largely reduced in passing through the field glass and camera
lens, it is necessary to give a much longer exposure. This can only be
determined by trying it out, as lenses have different speeds.--Contributed
by Charles Leonard, St. John, Can.
A Turn Feeding Table for Birds
Never in the past has the public at large taken so great an interest
in protecting and furthering the well-being of birds as at present. In
addition to protective legislation, clubs everywhere are organizing to
promote bird life and many citizens, old and young, are making bird houses
and feeding tables.
One of the best forms of feeding tables which I have ever seen is shown
in the sketch. It possesses a great advantage over the average table in
being turned automatically, whirling about by the action of the winds and
always keeping its open front on the lee or protected quarter. This is a
good feature especially in the fall and winter, the very time when birds
need and seek protection from storms and cold winds.
To make such a feed table almost any kind of boards can be utilized. The
shelter may be of any shape or size to suit the tastes of the maker, but
one constructed to the dimensions given will be found to work well in most
localities. Along the center of the roof is attached a wing, A, which is
an active aid in causing the wind to keep the open front turned away. The
shelter turns upon a wood or iron rod which passes from the end of a post
up through the central bottom and central roof of the structure. If wood
is used for the rod, it should be about 1 in. in diameter and of hard
stock. An iron rod may be somewhat smaller. Keep the holes well greased.
[Illustration: A Feeding Table for Birds That will Keep Its Open Side
Protected from the Storms]
The house should be given a couple of coats of white, red, or green paint,
and the post painted to correspond. Feed and water are placed in shallow
dishes on the floor and they should be blocked to keep them from sliding
out.--Contributed by C. C. Fraser, Saginaw, Mich.
A Sack Holder
An old granite kettle or tin pail with the bottom cut out and three
8-penny wire nails bent and fastened on with rivets, as shown at A, makes
as good a sack holder as one could desire. A chain attached to the handle
makes it conveniently adjustable to the proper height for the sack.
[Illustration: A Granite Kettle Forms a Holder That Makes It Easy to Fill
the Sack]
Time Indicator for Medicine Bottles
[Illustration]
The time to give a patient the next dose of medicine can be set on the
indicator, as shown in the sketch, and retained without fear of its being
changed until the dose is again given. The indicator consists of a strip
of paper which will reach around the bottle neck and is divided into 24
equal parts representing hours and half hours. The paper is then pasted to
the bottle neck. An ordinary pin is then pushed into the cork as shown.
After a dose of medicine is given to the patient the cork is replaced so
that the head of the pin will indicate the time for the next dose. By this
method, an accidental shifting of the indicator is almost impossible.
A Washtub Stand
Usually two old chairs or an old box makes the stand for the washtub,
and these are not always the right height. A stand, like that shown in
the illustration and having the proper height for the one who does the
washing, can be easily made of 2 by 4-in. material and a few boards. As
it is shown, the wringer is fastened on top of the back and may remain
there all the time, it being out of the way, always in its proper place,
and held very firmly.
[Illustration: Stand Provides a Place for the Washing Utensils and It is
Always the Proper Height]
A light bracket, on which to set the clothes basket, can be made and
fastened on the back of the stand, connected with two hinges and supported
by a leg hinged to the bracket, the lower end of the leg resting on the
floor back of the stand.
A small drawer may also be provided in the front, in which to put away the
soap and brushes, and the wash boiler can be set underneath. When one is
through washing, the bracket at the back is let down, the washstand set
up against the wall out of the way, and everything is then in its place,
ready for the next wash day.--Contributed by Chas. Homewood, Waterloo, Ia.
Pipe Used as a Leather Punch
[Illustration]
The sketch shows how a very cheap and serviceable leather punch can be
made of an old pipe nipple. Pieces of pipe of almost any size can be found
around a shop, and it is, therefore, usually possible to quickly make
a punch of the required size. The cutter end can be ground very thin to
prevent an over-cut, while a small slot cut a little above it will allow
the removal of the leather slugs. For its purpose, this homemade tool is
all that can be desired in cheapness and utility.
To Prevent Oilcloth from Cracking
A good method to prevent oilcloth from cracking, when it is used on shop
tables or counters, is to first cut a paper cover for the table on which
to place the oilcloth and prepare it as follows: The paper should be
well oiled with common machine oil and placed smoothly on the table to
be covered. The oilcloth is then smoothed out on top of the paper and
stretched tightly. The oiled paper tends to keep the under side of the
cloth moist, which prevents cracking. The cloth wears much longer because
the paper acts as a pad.
[Illustration]
How to Make a Flymobile By Edward Sieja
The boy owning a pushmobile, or even a power-driven auto car, is often
very much disappointed because motion soon stops when the power is
not applied. The car illustrated is of a little different type, being
equipped with a flywheel that will propel the car and carry the rider a
considerable distance after stopping the pedaling. The flywheel also aids
the operator, as it will steady the motion and help him over a rough place
or a bump in the road.
[Illustration: The Flymobile is a Miniature Automobile in Appearance and
is Propelled by Foot Power]
The main frame of the flymobile is made up of a few pieces of 2 by 4-in.
timbers. The pieces A are 6 ft. 4 in. long, and the end crosspieces B,
24 in. long. These are jointed, glued and screwed together, as shown in
Fig. 1. The frame that supports the driving parts consists of a piece, C,
6 ft. 2 in. long, and a piece D, 2 ft. 11 in. long. These are fitted in
the main frame and securely fastened to the end crosspieces B. Two other
crosspieces, E and F, are used to strengthen the driving-parts frame.
[Illustration: Plan and Elevation of the Flymobile, Showing the Location
of the Working Parts, to Which, with a Few Changes, a Motorcycle Engine
can be Attached to Make It a Cyclecar; also Details of the Brakes, Belt
Tightener and Coaster-Brake Hub (Fig. 1)]
The entire hanger G, with its bearings, cranks and pedals, can be procured
from a discarded bicycle and fastened to the piece C; the barrel holding
the bearings being snugly fitted into a hole bored in the piece with
an expansive bit. The location will depend on the builder and should be
marked as follows: Place the hanger on top of the piece C, then put a box
or board on the frame where the seat is to be and set the hanger where
it will be in a comfortable position for pedaling. Mark this location and
bore the hole.
[Illustration: (Fig. 2)]
The transmission H consists of a bicycle coaster-brake hub, shown in
detail in Fig. 2. A split pulley, J, 6 in. in diameter, is bored out to
fit over the center of the hub between the spoke flanges. The halves
of the pulley are then clamped on the hub with two bolts, run through
the holes in opposite directions. Their heads and nuts are let into
countersunk holes so that no part will extend above the surface of the
pulley. The supports for the hub axle consist of two pieces of bar iron,
4 in. long, drilled to admit the axle ends, and screws for fastening them
to the frame pieces C and D. This construction is clearly shown in Fig. 2.
The arrangement of the coaster-brake hub produces the same effect as a
coaster brake on a bicycle. The one propelling the flymobile may stop the
foot-power work without interfering with the travel of the machine, and,
besides, a little back pressure on the pedals will apply the brake in the
same manner.
The flywheel K should be about 18 in. in diameter with a 2-in. rim, or
face. Such a wheel can be purchased cheaply from any junk dealer. The
flywheel is set on a shaft, turning between the pieces C and D and back
of the coaster-brake wheel H. Two pulleys, L, about 3 in. in diameter,
are fastened to turn with the flywheel on the shaft and are fitted with
flanges to separate the belts. The ends of the shaft should run in good
bearings, well oiled.
[Illustration: (Fig. 3)]
Another pulley, M, 6 in. in diameter, is made of wood and fastened to
the rear axle. An idler wheel, shown in Fig. 3, is constructed of a small
pulley, or a large spool, attached to an L-shaped piece of metal, which
in turn is fastened on the end of a shaft controlled by the lever N.
The function of this idler is to tighten up the belt or release it, thus
changing the speed in the same manner as on a motorcycle.
The elevation of the flymobile is given in Fig. 4, which shows the
arrangement of the belting. The size of the pulleys on the flywheel shaft
causes it to turn rapidly, and, for this reason, the weight of the wheel
will run the car a considerable distance when the coaster hub is released.
[Illustration: (Fig. 4)]
The rear axle revolves in bearings, half of which is recessed in the
under edges of the pieces A while the other half is fastened to a block,
screwed on over the axle. A simple brake is made as shown in Fig. 5. Two
metal pieces, O, preferably brass, are shaped to fit over the shaft with
extending ends for fastening them to the pieces P and Q, as shown. These
pieces are hinged with strap iron, R, at one end, the other end of the
piece P being fastened to the crosspiece F, Fig. 1, of the main frame. The
lower piece Q is worked by the lever S and side bars, T. A small spring,
U, keeps the ends of the pieces apart and allows the free turning of the
axle until the brake lever is drawn. The lever S is connected by a long
bar to the hand lever V.
[Illustration: (Fig. 5)]
The steering apparatus W, Figs. 1 and 4, is constructed of a piece of
gas pipe, 3 ft. 4 in. long, with a wheel at one end and a cord, X, at the
other. The center part of the cord is wound several times around the pipe
and the ends are passed through screweyes in the main frame pieces A and
attached to the front axle, which is pivoted in the center under the block
Y. The lower end of the pipe turns in a hole bored slanting in the block.
A turn of the steering wheel causes one end of the cord to wind and the
other to unwind, which turns the axle on the center pivot.
The wheels are bicycle wheels, and the ends of the front axle are turned
to receive the cones and nuts, instead of using the regular hub axles.
The ends of the rear axle are turned to closely fit the hubs after the
ball cups have been removed. A large washer and nut clamp each wheel to
the axle so that it will turn with it.
The body can be made up as desired, from sheet metal, wood, or cloth
stretched over ribs of wood, and painted in the manner of an automobile. A
tank and tires can be placed on the back to add to the appearance. Fenders
and a running board can be attached to the main frame.
With the addition of some crosspieces in the main frame at the front and
a motorcycle engine fastened to them so that the driving sprocket will
be in line with the sprocket on the coaster hub, the builder will have a
real cyclecar.
The Die-and-Box Trick
The die-and-box trick, so often performed on the stage, is a very
interesting and mystifying one. The apparatus, however, is simple,
consisting of a box, die, a piece of tin in the form of three adjacent
sides of the die, and a hat. The die and box are constructed entirely of
wood, 1/8 in. thick, and the piece of tin can be cut from any large coffee
can. The box is closed by four doors, as shown in Fig. 1, two of which
are 2-3/4 in. square, and the others, 3-1/8 in. by 3-1/4 in. The first
two are the front doors and are preferably hinged with cloth to the two
uprights A and B. Small pieces of tin are fastened on the doors at C and
D, to provide a means to open them. The other doors are placed on top and
are hinged to the back, as shown.
[Illustration: With the False Die in Place It Appears as If the Box Were
Empty]
The die is 3 in. square on all sides, and is constructed of two pieces,
3 in. square; two pieces, 2-3/4 in. by 3 in., and two pieces, 2-3/4 in.
square. These are fastened together with 1/2-in. brads. The tin, forming
the false die, is cut out as shown in Fig. 2, and is then bent on the
dotted lines and soldered together on the joint formed by the two edges
E and F. All parts should be painted a dull black with white spots on the
die and false die.
[Illustration: The Box with Doors on One Side and the Top, (Fig. 1)]
[Illustration: ...and the False-Die pattern (Fig. 2)]
The trick is performed as follows: Procure a hat from some one in the
audience and place in it the die with the tin false die covering three
sides of the block, at the same time telling the audience that the block
will be caused to pass from the hat into the box, the latter being placed
some distance away. Inform the audience that it would be more difficult
for the die to pass from the box into the hat. Remove the tin piece from
the hat and leave the die, holding the surfaces of the false die toward
the audience. This will give the impression that the die has been removed.
Set the hat on the table above the level of the eyes of the audience. With
the back of the box toward the audience, open one top door and insert
the tin piece in the right-hand compartment so that one side touches
the back, another the side and the other the bottom of the box. Close
the door and open the two doors of the opposite compartment which, when
shown, will appear to be empty. Tilt the box to this side and open the
doors of the side opposite to the one just opened, which, of course, will
be empty. This should be done several times until some one asks that all
doors be opened at the same time. After a few more reversals and openings
as given, open all doors and show it empty, then take the die from the
hat.--Contributed by Harold L. Groesbeck, Salt Lake City, Utah.
Homemade Pantograph
The pantograph consists of four pieces of wood, the dimensions depending
somewhat on the size of the work to be drawn. A convenient size for
ordinary drawing and enlarging is constructed of four pieces of hardwood,
preferably maple, 3/16 in. thick and 5/8 in. wide, two of them 20-3/4 in.
in length and the other two, 18-3/4 in. long. These are planed and
sandpapered and the ends cut round.
[Illustration: A Picture can be Enlarged or Reduced by Setting the
Screweyes in the Holes Designated]
All four pieces are laid flat on a level board or bench top with their
edges together so that the edges of the two longer pieces make right
angles with a line drawn tangent to their ends. One end of one short
piece is placed flush with the lower ends of the two long pieces, and one
end of the other short piece flush with the upper ends, as shown. They
should be clamped down solidly to keep them from moving while laying off
the divisions. Light lines are drawn across their faces as designated by
the dimensions. On these lines and exactly in the center of the pieces
make small marks with a pencil point. Through the pieces A and B holes
are drilled to snugly receive the body of a small screweye. The other
two pieces are drilled with a smaller drill so that the threads of the
screweye will take hold in the wood.
The end C of the piece A has a metal stand made of brass as shown at D.
This is fastened to the end of the wood with a small bolt. The hole should
be a snug fit over the body of the bolt. The lower ends of the brass are
drilled to admit thumb tacks for holding it to the drawing board.
The joint at E is made of a suitable binding post that can be procured at
an electrical shop, the shank below the two joined pieces to be the same
length as the height of the metal stand D. The end should be filed round
and polished so that it will slip over the board or paper easily.
The stylus or tracing point F is made of another binding post, in the
same manner, but instead of a rounding end a slightly blunt, pointed end
is filed on it. The end of the piece G is strengthened by gluing a small
block of the same material on both upper and under side. A hole is then
made through them to receive a pencil rather tightly.
The holes, as will be seen, are numbered from 1 to 34. At the crossing of
each pair, H and J, the screweyes must be set in the holes numbered alike
on both pieces of each pair. This will insure the proper working of the
parts. The other numbers designate how much the instrument will enlarge a
picture or reduce it. On the pair not numbered in the sketch the numbers
run in the opposite direction.
The end C is fastened to the left side of the drawing board, the picture
to be enlarged is placed under the stylus or tracer point, and the paper
under the pencil point G. Move the tracing point over the general outline
of the picture without making any line before starting, so as to make sure
that the paper and picture are located right. It is then only necessary
to take hold of the pencil and move it over the paper while watching the
tracer point to keep it following the lines of the picture. To make a
reduced picture, the original is placed under G, the tracer point changed
to G and the pencil to F.
Trapping Mosquitoes
[Illustration]
Mosquitoes that light on the ceiling may be easily destroyed with the
instrument shown in the sketch. It consists of a cover, such as used on
jelly glasses, nailed to the end of an old broom handle. A little kerosene
oil is placed in the cover and the device is passed closely beneath the
location of the mosquitoes. They will be overcome by the fumes and drop
into the fluid as soon as it comes under them.--Contributed by J. J.
Kolar, Maywood, Ill.
Pen Rack on an Ink Bottle
[Illustration]
A piece of wire, about 1 ft. long, is bent into the shape shown and
slipped over the neck of the ink bottle. The ends forming the loop around
the neck should fit tightly. The upper part of the wire is shaped to hold
the penholder.--Contributed by W. A. Saul, E. Lexington, Mass.
Substitute for a Broken Bench-Vise Nut
[Illustration: Two Pieces of Strap Iron Shaped to Fit the Square Thread
Make a Good Substitute Nut]
It is frequently the case that the nut on a bench-vise screw breaks from
being subjected to a too violent strain. If one is working in a place
where a new nut cannot be obtained, the broken part may be replaced by the
substitute shown in the sketch. Any piece of strap iron may be used, and
with a round file and a drill the two pieces can soon be made and attached
to the bench with screws or bolts. A slight twist of the shaped ends is
necessary to make them fit the angle of the thread.--Contributed by Oscar
M. Waddell, Lamedeer, Mont.
Scissors Sharpener
[Illustration: In Attempting to Cut the Hardened Steel Pin the Edge is
Drawn Sharp]
Procure an ordinary wood clothespin and drill a 1/8-in. hole through its
blades, then insert a piece of hardened 1/8-in. drill rod, which should
be a driving fit. In using this device, take the scissors and attempt to
cut the steel rod. Do this three or four times and a good cutting edge
will be obtained.--Contributed by Wm. J. Tolson, Lyons, Iowa.
* * * * *
An imitation-gold color may be made with flake
white, ground in varnish and tinted with a touch of
vermilion. When striping or lettering is done with
this, it will have the appearance of real gilding
work.
Floor Push Button
An ordinary electric push button can be used for a floor push button by
placing it on a bracket or shelf attached to a joist, as shown, and using
a nail for the extension push. A 1/4-in. hole is bored through the floor,
also through a small piece of wood fastened beneath the floor, at the
right place to direct the nail so that it will strike directly upon the
small black knob of the push button. The nail should be just long enough
to rest lightly on the knob.--Contributed by Reginald R. Insole, Hamilton,
Can.
[Illustration: Push Button on Joist]
A Wrist Brace
To strengthen a weak wrist, take a piece of leather, preferably white
oak tanned, 2 in. wide and 14 in. long, and carefully shave it down with
a sharp knife, until it is 1/16 in. thick. Then cut it as shown in Fig.
1, the wide part or body being 7 in. long, and the narrow part or neck,
6 in. long and 1 in. wide. Cut a semicircular hole, 1 in. from the extreme
end of the body, 1/2 in. wide and 1-1/4 in. long, to allow the neck to
slip through, then punch three holes in each end and lace with rawhide or
shoestring, or, better still, if you happen to have a small buckle, sew
it neatly to the body. It looks better and saves time in adjusting. When
complete and on the wrist, it will appear as in Fig. 2.--Contributed by
J. H. Harris, Berkeley, Cal.
[Illustration: Brace Made of Leather]
Protecting a Kettle Handle from Heat
[Illustration]
The wood handle of a kettle or cooking utensil when not in use usually
comes in contact with the side of the vessel and it will absorb enough
heat each time to finally char and crack the wood. The heat of the handle
at times is so intense that it often results in a burned hand. The spiral
metal handle provides a way for cooling by exposing a considerable surface
to the air, yet the metal retains the heat so that many times it is too
hot to handle. If a wood handle is provided with a coil of wire as shown
in the accompanying sketch, the wood cannot come in contact with the side
of the heated vessel and the air encircling the wood prevents it from
getting too hot to handle. The spiral can be attached to a metal handle
with solder.
Tin Can Used for Watering Chickens
[Illustration]
An ordinary discarded tomato can makes a good watering vessel for young
chickens. Care must be taken in opening the can to cut the tin so the
cover will hinge. Cut the tin about 1-1/2 in. from the bottom so that it
will form a U-shaped piece as shown in the sketch and push the hanging
portion in the can. Fill the can up to the opening with water, close the
cover and set it in the coop.--Contributed by L. Alberta Norrell, Augusta,
Ga.
[Illustration]
How to Make a Hurdle
The hurdle consists of two standards, a reach, and a swing. The swing
is first made in the shape of a rectangle of four pieces of wood, about
7/8 in. thick and 1-1/2 in. wide, of which two are 36 in. and the others
18 in. long. These pieces are nailed together in the manner shown.
[Illustration: The Swing of the Hurdle will Turn When Slightly Touched
and Right Itself Again]
Each standard is made of three pieces of wood, 7/8 in. thick, 3 in. wide,
and 18 in. long. Nail the pieces firmly together, as shown, and connect
their bases with another piece of the same material, 36 in. long. When
this is finished, connect the swing to the standards with long nails,
A, at the ends slightly off center. Before inserting the nails, make the
holes in each standard to receive them large enough to permit the nails
to turn freely without allowing the heads to pass through. Thus the frame
will swing freely at the slightest touch of the jumper's foot, and right
itself immediately.--Contributed by C. C. Fraser, Saginaw, Mich.
Oil Burner for a Cook Stove
The parts of the burner consist of ordinary gas pipe and fittings.
The pipe in which the kerosene oil is converted into gas is 1/2 in. in
diameter and is connected to a supply tank of oil with 1/4-in. pipe. The
burner part is also constructed of 1/4-in. pipe having three 1/16-in.
holes drilled in each end for the gas to escape where it burns. These
burners are located just beneath the large pipe so that the flames will
heat it and convert the oil into gas. A needle valve, A, is used to
control the flow of oil. The burner is placed in the fire box of the
stove, and the pipes connected through a hole drilled in the stove door,
at B.
[Illustration: A Very Cheap Grade of Kerosene Oil can be Used in This
Burner with Success]
The tank may be rectangular or round and should be of sufficient strength
to withstand 5 or 10 lb. of pressure. The top of the tank has a pet cock
where a connecting hose from an air pump may be attached. The tank is
filled about half full and just a little pressure of air is put on the
oil. To start the burner, run a little oil in a pan or fire shovel and
light it so that the flames will convert the oil into gas in the large
pipe, then turn the valve A and regulate the flame.--Contributed by Robert
Hays, Siloam Springs, Ark.
A Fish Stringer
The illustration shows a very simple and inexpensive device for the angler
to string and carry fish. It is made of a pail handle through which is
passed a piece of soft wire, having sufficient length for bends or loops
at each end, and a piece of chain. A chain 18 in. long is sufficient. One
end of the chain is fastened in the loop at one end of the handle, and
the other has a piece of wire attached for pushing through the gills of
the fish. The other end of the wire through the handle is arranged in a
hook to catch into the links of the chain.--Contributed by G. O. Reed,
Stratford, Canada.
[Illustration: Inexpensive Stringer Made of a Pail Handle and Small Chain]
Substitutes for Drawing Instruments
Three of the most used draftsman's instruments are the compass, ruler and
square or triangle. When it is necessary to make a rough drawing and no
instruments are at hand, common and easily obtainable things can be used
as substitutes.
[Illustration: A Compass, Ruler and Square Made of Ordinary Things at Hand]
A sheet of heavy paper folded as shown at A will serve as a ruler, and
the same sheet given another fold will make the square B. If given
another fold diagonally, a 45-deg. triangle is formed. A substitute
compass is readily made of a short pencil and a pocket knife, as shown at
C.--Contributed by Jas. J. Joyce, Olongopo, Philippine Islands.
How to Make an Aspirator
A simple aspirator that may be used for a number of different purposes,
such as accelerating the process of filtering, emptying water from tubs,
producing a partial vacuum in vessels in which coils are being boiled in
paraffin, etc., may be constructed as follows: Obtain two pieces of brass
tubing of the following dimensions: one 7 in. long and 3/4 in. outside
diameter, and the other, 3 in. long and 1/4 in. outside diameter. Drill
a hole in one side of the large tube, about 3 in. from one end, of such
a diameter that the small brass tube will fit it very tightly. Take an
ordinary hacksaw and cut a slot in the side of the large piece, as shown
at A. This slot is sawed diagonally across the tube and extends from one
side to the center. Obtain a piece of sheet brass that will fit into this
slot tightly, and then solder it and the small tube into the large tube.
The slot and hole for the small tube should be so located with respect
to each other that the small tube will empty into the larger one directly
against the piece of sheet brass soldered in the slot.
[Illustration: Detail of the Aspirator and Its Connections to a Faucet,
for Increasing the Speed of Filtration]
The upper end of the large tube should be threaded inside to fit over the
threads on the faucet, or an attachment soldered to it similar to those on
the end of an ordinary garden hose. A rubber hose should be attached to
the small tube and connected, as shown, to a piece of glass tubing that
is sealed in the cork in the top of the large bottle. The funnel holding
the filter paper is also sealed into the cork. Melted paraffin may be used
in sealing the glass tube, funnel and cork in place, the object being to
make them airtight. The filter paper should be folded so that it sticks
tightly against the sides of the funnel when the liquid is poured in, thus
preventing any air from entering the bottle between the paper and the
funnel. Turn on the faucet, and it will be found that the time required
to filter any liquid will be greatly reduced. Be careful, however, not
to turn on too much water, as the suction may then be too strong and the
filter paper become punctured.
A Key-Holder Hook
[Illustration]
A good hook for hanging keys, toothbrushes and other small articles can be
made from ordinary wire staples, as shown at A. One leg of the staple is
cut away as shown at B and the other leg driven into the board as shown
at C. These will answer the purpose as well as screwhooks.--Contributed
by W. C. Heidt, Chicago.
A Hand Hoe
A hand hoe, especially adapted for weeding or cultivating small truck,
particularly onions, can be made of a piece of hard wood, 7/8 by
1-3/4 in. by 4 ft. long, and a piece of old bucksaw blade. A blade,
18 in. long and 2 in. wide, bent into a loop is attached with bolts to
the handle.--Contributed by Geo. H. Miller, Iowa City, Iowa.
[Illustration: Bucksaw Blade Attached to a Hardwood Handle]
Seed Receptacle for Bird-Cages
A handy seed and water container for a bird-cage can be made of a common
spice tin. The receptacle can be filled without removal by simply taking
off the cover. Thus the seed will not be scattered.
[Illustration: Spice Tin Attached to the Wires of a Bird-Cage for a Water
or Seed Receptacle]
The tin is attached by cutting a hole in the back as shown, and bending
the side edges to fit over the wires to hold it in place. The bottom strip
is a support which rests on the floor of the cage and prevents the tin
from slipping down on the wires.
Kitchen-Utensil Scraper
A flexible utensil scraper is one of the most useful articles I have in my
kitchen. It covers such a large surface in scraping pans, kettles, etc.,
that this most disagreeable part of the kitchen work is quickly and easily
accomplished.
[Illustration: The Blade is Flexible so It can Readily Shape Itself to
the Curves of a Kettle]
The flexible blade is attached to the tin handles with small rivets.
The blade should be thin and narrow enough to allow it to bend. When
the handles are pressed together, the blade curves to the shape of the
utensil's surface.--Contributed by Mrs. Della Schempp, Brodhead, Wis.
Anchor Posts for a Lawn Swing
A very substantial and convenient base for a lawn swing can be made by
using four anchor posts of cement, as shown in Fig. 1. The posts are made
with a recess, A, to receive the legs of the swing, and of any suitable
size. They may be placed with the upper face on a level with the lawn, or
higher if desired.
[Illustration: Ar. Anchor Post of Cement and a Mold Box for Shaping Four
Posts at a Time (Fig. 1, Fig. 2)]
A rough mold box, Fig. 2, lined with paper, will do for making the posts.
The box does not require any top or bottom; it is simply placed on a board
and lifted away when the blocks are thoroughly dried. If the blocks are
leveled when placed in the earth, the swing may be taken down and erected
again without the usual leveling and bracing.--Contributed by James M.
Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
Automatic Filter
[Illustration]
This funnel-filling filter automatically prevents the solution from
running over if the filtering is slow or the filter substance becomes
clogged. The upper inverted bottle holds the solution to be filtered, the
cork being fitted with a glass tube as shown, and when in use the cork
is forced into the neck of the bottle so that no air can enter between it
and the glass. The support for holding the bottles has two brackets, one
to fit the neck of the upper bottle and the other used as a shelf for the
receiving bottle. In operation, the solution runs from the upper bottle
into the funnel, holding the filter paper, but it cannot fill the funnel
completely, because the end of the glass tube is lower than the edge of
the funnel, and as soon as the liquid in the funnel covers the end of the
tube, all inflow of air into the upper bottle is stopped, and, thereby,
further flow of the solution into the funnel prevented, until enough has
filtered through to uncover the end of the tube and thus permit air to
again enter the upper bottle.--Contributed by G. Simons, Chicago.
Grinding Scissors
Whether a pair of scissors be ground or filed, the marks or scratches left
from the contact with the abrasive should all extend across the bevel
in the direction of the line ED, Fig. 1, and never in the direction of
the line GF. If the cutting edge be examined under a magnifying glass,
the tool marks or scratches left by the sharpening process will be very
plainly seen, and where these scratches intersect with the face HI, Fig.
2, of the blade, they will appear as teeth along the cutting edge IK.
[Illustration: The Direction of the Grinding Tool should be Slightly
Sloping Toward the Handles]
As a pair of scissors close, the natural tendency is to thrust the
material to be cut out of the angle ABC, Fig. 1, but if these small teeth
formed on the cutting edge point in the direction of the line ED, this
slipping action is prevented or retarded because the fibrous material
adheres to the fine teeth on the cutting edge of the blades.
Wet paper, silks, mohair cloths, etc., can be sheared with perfect
ease and dispatch, when scissors are sharpened in this manner. The same
principle holds good for metal snips.
The angle HIJ, Fig. 2, varies according to the material to be cut, and the
type of shear. A greater angle is required on metal shears than on shears
for domestic uses.--Contributed by A. Clifton, Chicago.
To Repair a Leak in a Canoe
After striking some rocks with our canoe, it sprung three very bad leaks.
These were effectively patched with pieces of cheesecloth, well soaked
in liquid shellac, which were pasted on the outside of the leak. After
allowing this to set for a few hours, it will be almost impossible to
remove the patch. This is an inexpensive and almost invariably a sure
remedy for leaks. When the cloth is dry, paint it over with the same color
as the boat, and the repair can scarcely be seen.--Contributed by William
B. Smith, New York City.
Holder for Loose Window Glass
[Illustration]
When the putty becomes loose and the glazing points work out on window
glass, temporary repairs may be made by using a small piece of tin or
sheet iron bent as shown in the sketch. The clip is inserted under the
edge of the glass and hooked over the back of the sash parts. This will
hold the glass firmly in place and also prevent rattling.
A Homemade Bench Vise
A form of a bench vise that can be easily made and attached to a workbench
is shown in the illustration. This vise requires no screw, and the parts
can be made from scrap material.
[Illustration: The Vise Jaw as It is Attached to the Bench and the
Substitute Screw Arrangement]
The substitute A for the screw is a rectangular piece of wood and is
fastened with a tenon in a mortise cut in the vise jaw B. The clamping
arrangement consists of a strap, C, attached to the piece A, then run
over a pulley, D, and fastened to a foot pedal, E. The foot pedal is
fulcrumed on a crosspiece of the bench and has a ratchet so as to hold
it when the vise is set. The lower end of the vise is fitted with the
usual form of device for parallel adjustment. A coil spring is located
in the center for use in quickly opening the vise when the foot pedal is
released.--Contributed by A. C. Westby, Porter, Minn.
A Cover Strainer
Quite frequently the cook or housewife wishes to pour the hot water or
liquid from boiling vegetables or other foods without removing the solids
from the kettle. This is easily accomplished, if small holes are drilled
in the cover as shown in the sketch. The saucepan or kettle can be tilted
and the liquid drains through the holes. Further, the steam from cooking
food can readily escape through the holes, thus preventing the cover from
vibrating, or the liquids from boiling over.
[Illustration: A Sufficient Number of Holes are Drilled in the Edge of
the Cover to Make a Strainer]
Homemade Corn Sheller
Where there is but a small quantity of corn to be shelled a sheller can
be made of a few scraps of wood usually found on a farm. A block of wood
having a sloping notch cut from one end is mounted on three legs as shown.
The notched part as well as the lever is thickly filled with spikes driven
in so that their heads protrude about 1/2 in.
[Illustration: The Projecting Nail Heads in the Block and Lever, as They
Pass, Shell the Corn]
The ear of corn is placed in the notched part and the lever pressed down.
Two or three strokes of the lever will remove all the kernels from the
cob. A box is provided and conveniently located on one leg to catch the
shelled corn.--Contributed by A. S. Thomas, Gordon, Ont.
An Ornamental Metal Flatiron Holder
This antique iron holder or stand can be easily constructed by the amateur
bent-iron worker. A strip of iron is bent over at the ends to form the
side legs, and the front leg is formed of another piece, welded in the
center.
[Illustration: Ornamental Stand Made of Either Strap Iron or Sheet Metal
to Hold a Flatiron]
Openings for the crosspieces are then cut, the legs bent into a scroll
shape, and the crosspieces inserted and fastened by spreading or upsetting
the ends.
Instead of using strap iron, the stand can be cut from good sheet metal.
This would save the trouble of welding on the front leg.
How to Make a Watch Demagnetizer
A watch demagnetizer that will give excellent satisfaction may be made as
follows:
[Illustration: Dimensioned Parts for the Construction of the Core over
Which the Insulated Wire is Wound]
Procure a sheet of 1/16 in. brass, 3-1/4 in. by 7 in. Bend this piece of
brass around a piece of hard wood having a rectangular cross section of
2-1/2 in. by 1 in. The joint between the two ends should be made on one
side, and the edges should lack about 1/8 in. of touching. Next obtain
two pieces of 1/8 in. brass, 3-3/4 in. by 3 in., and cut an opening in
each of these, 2-5/8 in. by 1-1/8 in., as shown in the sketch. Bend one
edge of each of these pieces over at right angles to the main portion of
the piece. Solder these two pieces on the ends of the rectangular tube
of brass and cut a slot in each of them to correspond to the one in the
rectangular tube. Place the rectangular piece of wood back in the tube
and you are ready for the winding. Use No. 18 gauge single cotton-covered
copper wire and fill the winding space. Several layers of paper should be
placed on the brass tube and between the layers of wire, to serve as an
insulation. Holes may be drilled in the projecting portions on the ends
and the coil can then be mounted on a wooden base. Mount two binding posts
on this base and connect the terminals of the winding to them.
To use the demagnetizer, connect it to a 110-volt alternating-current
circuit with a rheostat in circuit of such a form that the current will
not exceed three amperes and that it may be reduced to practically zero
in value by increasing the resistance of the rheostat. The magnetic field
inside the coil is rapidly changing in direction and will tend to destroy
any permanent magnetism that may be possessed by an object placed inside
of it. The full current of three amperes should be allowed to pass through
the winding for a few minutes after the object to be demagnetized is
inserted, and then gradually reduced, and the object removed.
Remodeling a Talking Machine
Having a talking machine of an old model with a tapered horn I decided to
change it into a more modern type, and this was accomplished as follows:
An auxiliary base was constructed of 1/2 in. wood on which to set the
part which revolves the disks. The inside of this base is so constructed
as to form a horn or sounding box. The two sides and sloping bottom of
the horn-part are made of 1/4 in. wood. The form of this box is shown in
Fig. 1. The dimensions should be determined according to the size of the
talking machine.
[Illustration: The Horn or Sounding Box Is Constructed in the Auxiliary
Base... (Fig. 1)]
[Illustration: ...and the Part for Connecting the Sounding Tube to the Box
Consists of Ordinary Gas Pipe Fastened with a Clip at the Back (Fig. 2)]
The connecting parts to the original horn were turned downward, as shown
at A, Fig. 2, with the opening entering a piece of ordinary gas pipe of
sufficient length to allow an elbow with a nipple to enter the auxiliary
base. The pivot-holding device for connection A is shown at D. The
parts are attached to the box with a clasp, E, and with three screws in
the nipple C, the end view of which is shown at F. The talking machine
is placed on the auxiliary base as shown in Fig. 3. This construction
produces a talking machine on the order of a cabinet machine without the
tapering horn.--Contributed by H. W. J. Lomglatz, Harrisburg, Pa.
[Illustration: (Fig. 3)]
Needle for Sewing Burlap
A needle for sewing burlap can be easily made of the ordinary opener
that comes with sardine cans. All that is necessary to convert this tool
into a needle is to grind the blunt end to a sharp point, as shown in the
sketch.--Contributed by G. C. Beven, Sault Ste. Marie, Ont.
[Illustration: The Can Opener is Provided with an Eye and to Make a Needle
the End is Sharpened]
A Mysterious Revolving Wheel
The mystery of this wheel is that it seems to revolve automatically
without any visible external power. It is at the same time an amusing
trick and an instructive experiment. The apparatus required is very simple
and can be made at home.
[Illustration: The Wheel as It is Mounted on a Needle, and Lamp and Box
Containing Magnet to Make It Turn]
A glass bottle is half filled with sand and water, so that it will stand
securely, and a cork placed in the neck. Into this cork a needle should be
inserted so that it projects perpendicularly, which is most easily done
by heating one end of the needle to a red heat and then pushing it into
the cork as deeply as possible. Into a disk of cork of suitable thickness
and at four points on its side, at equal distances apart, are inserted
four pieces of copper wire of the same length, each bent at the outer end
to form a hook--these copper wires thus forming the spokes of the wheel.
The rim is made of a small iron wire bent in a circular shape and held
in the hooks on the ends of the copper wires. The now completed wheel is
balanced on the free point on the needle, so that it can turn easily.
Place an alcohol lamp in such a position that when it is lighted the tip
of the flame will just reach the rim of the wheel. (Any other flame that
will not soot the rim may be used.) In the box A, placed with its bottom
level with the wheel, put a horseshoe magnet so that the flame is opposite
one of its poles. After the lamp has been lighted for a few seconds, the
wheel will begin to revolve, seemingly without cause. Why does it do so?
Because the magnet magnetizes or attracts the part of the ring nearest
it while cold, but not when it is glowing. Instead, it will attract the
cooler part of the ring nearest behind the flame and so on, the wheel thus
spinning round, faster in the same proportion as the magnet is stronger
and the iron rim smaller.
If this experiment is shown before spectators as a trick, the performer
may say to the audience that he alone can make the wheel spin around
without touching it. Should some one accept his challenge, he may, in a
careless way, move the box containing the magnet away or turn it around
so that it will not influence the iron ring and then, of course, the wheel
will remain immovable.
How to Make a Rabbet Plane
A rabbet plane is very little used by mechanics, but when it is wanted for
a piece of work, it is wanted badly. While doing an unusual piece of work
I needed a rabbet plane, and having none, I made a plane as shown in the
sketch in less time than it would have taken to go out and borrow one.
[Illustration: A Plane Made of a Piece of 2 by 4-In. Pine, a Chisel and
a Large Wood Screw]
The body of the plane was made of a piece of 2 by 4-in. pine, 1 ft. long.
A 1-in. chisel was used for the bit. A place was marked on one side of the
wood to be cut out for the chisel, and a 1-in. hole bored through, the
narrow way, so that one edge of the bit cut through the bottom, forming
a slit for the edge of the chisel. After cutting a groove for the chisel
blade and turning in a long wood screw as shown, to hold the chisel in
place, I had as good a rabbet plane as could be purchased.--Contributed
by W. H. Young, Thompson, Ga.
Eye Shield for a Microscope
The difficulty and discomfort amateurs experience in learning to use a
microscope with both eyes open, or in trying to keep one eye shut, can
be easily overcome by attaching a piece of cardboard, similar in shape to
the one shown in the sketch, to the barrel of the microscope. The hole A
should be of sufficient diameter to allow the cardboard to slide freely up
and down on the barrel to the proper adjustment. This simple arrangement
will relieve a great deal of the eye strain and will be of assistance to
the most experienced users of microscopes.--Contributed by G. B. Fenton,
Charleston, W. Virginia.
[Illustration: Shield to Cover the Eye That is Not Used When Looking into
a Microscope]
Transferring Magazine Pictures
Select pictures from newly printed papers and magazines. Rub wax from a
paraffin candle over a sheet of clean white paper, covering a space as
large as the picture to be copied. Place the paper, waxed side down, on
the picture and while holding it firmly with the fingers of one hand,
rub the back thoroughly with some hard substance until all parts of the
picture have been gone over. Remove the paper and a perfect copy of the
picture will be found upon the waxed side.--Contributed by Kenneth G.
Merlin, Brooklyn, N. Y.
A Homemade Egg Separator
Secure some small wire and a very large can. Cut the wire into several
pieces and bend them as shown at A, cut the can and bend the side down
as shown and punch holes to receive the upper ends of the wires. Make the
holes so that the wires will be about 5/16 in. apart.
[Illustration: The Contents of the Egg is Placed on the Wires Which will
Separate the Yolk from the White]
A Glue-Spreader Holder
[Illustration]
The spreader that is supplied with bottles of liquid glue should not be
placed on any surface, as it will soon stick to it. A holder that will
keep the spreader in a safe place can be made of a piece of wire which
is twisted about the neck of the bottle, as shown in the sketch, and the
ends bent up to receive the spreader.
Stop on a Chair Rocker for a Baby
For a baby, too small to rock without tipping the chair over, a small
willow or other suitable rocking chair may be made safe in the following
manner:
[Illustration: The Strip on the Rocker Prevents the Child Tipping the
Chair Too Far Either Way]
A strip, A, is fastened on the outside of the rocker with small screws so
that it may be removed without injuring the chair. A rubber-covered tack
driven in on the under side at each end of the strip modifies the shock
and the baby can rock to its heart's content without danger of turning
over.--Contributed by Mrs. G. W. Coplin, Bay City, Mich.
Homemade Countersink for Wood
A round or flat-head bolt can be made into a good rosebit or reamer for
countersinking holes for screw heads. In the illustration, Fig. 1 shows a
reamer made of a round-head bolt, and Fig. 2, one made of a square-head
bolt. The round-head makes the best reamer as more cutters can be filed
in the surface and less work is required to file it into shape.
[Illustration: Round and Square Heads of Bolts Shaped and Notched to Make
Countersinks (Fig. 1, Fig. 2)]
To Maintain a Constant Level of Liquids in Vessels
It is frequently desirable in laboratory experiments, and in practical
work as well, to maintain a constant level in a tank without allowing it
to become full. In many cases an outlet pipe at a certain height in the
side of the tank is not desirable, and in laboratory experiments with
beakers or crocks is, of course, impossible.
[Illustration]
The diagram shows a simple but effective constant-level device. The outer
end of the inverted U-tube is curved upward so that it never empties. If
desired, the upward curve may be omitted and the straight end immersed
in a small vessel of water. All that is necessary now for the successful
working of the device is that the inner or tank end, A, of the tube be
lower than the outer end--in other words, below the level of the end
B--and the inner end below the level of the fluid. Of course, the U-tube
must be first filled with liquid and will then act as an intermittent,
never-breaking siphon. Should the tank fill above the end B, the siphon
drains the fluid down to that level and no lower, even if the inner leg
of the tube reach the bottom. To maintain this level against loss by
evaporation some slight inflow is necessary.
It will be noted that if the inner end of the siphon were above the outer
end, the siphon would break as soon as the liquid in the tank fell to the
inner mouth.--Contributed by Harry N. Holmes, Richmond, Ind.
Homemade Electric Bed Warmer
The heat developed by a carbon-filament lamp is sufficiently high to allow
its use as a heating element of, for instance, a bed warmer. There are a
number of other small heaters which can be easily made and for which lamps
form very suitable heating elements, but the bed warmer is probably the
best example. All that is required is a tin covering which can be made of
an old can about 3-1/2 in. in diameter. The top is cut out and the edge
filed smooth. The lamp-socket end of the flexible cord is inserted in the
can and the shade holder gripped over the opening. A small lamp of about
five candlepower will do the heating.
A flannel bag, large enough to slip over the tin can and provided with
a neck that can be drawn together by means of a cord, gives the heater a
more finished appearance, as well as making it more pleasant to the touch.
[Illustration]
A Flash-Light Telegraph on a Kite Line
[Illustration: The Flash of the Light on the String may be Read as Far as
It can be Seen]
An ordinary pocket flash lamp is prepared in the following manner: A brass
spring, as shown in the sketch, is bound tightly to the flash lamp with a
cord, and two wires, one at each end, are twisted around the lamp's body,
forming two loops at the top. The kite string is run through the loops
and over the spring. The lamp is then placed near the kite. The ordinary
pull on the kite string does not close the spring, but a sharp jerk will
pull the string in contact with the push button and its slight pressure
causes an instant flash of the light. By this method words may be spelled
out in the telegraph code.--Contributed by Joe V. Romig, Allentown, Pa.
Hangers for Barn Tools
Means should be provided to have a place for all the tools used in and
about a barn. The forks and shovels are usually stood up in a corner, but
they can be more conveniently taken care of by making a hanger for them.
The illustration shows how a hanger can be easily made and screwed to the
wall of a barn. The hanger is cut from a piece of board and has a hole
bored into it the size of the handle on the fork or shovel, then a notch
is sawn into the hole to pass the handle through. The board may contain
one or as many notches as there are forks and shovels to be hung on it.
The implements are hung with the fork or shovel end upward.--Contributed
by R. Snyder, Glidden, Ia.
[Illustration: A Notched Board Provides a Way to Hang All the Tools Used
about a Barn]
Guide Ropes on a Bobsled
The sketch shows the front end of a bobsled or double runner made of a
plank bolted upon two sleds. The front sled is so pivoted on the bolt A
that it may be turned to steer the bob, and to accomplish this result the
steersman ordinarily sits with his feet braced against the projecting ends
of the crosspiece and passes the steering ropes outside of his feet, with
the ropes crossed as shown. The crossing of the ropes is supposed to add
leverage, but that is quite wrong.
[Illustration: The Most Efficient Way of Attaching Ropes to the Guiding
Runners of a Bobsled]
The rope, running from B to C, has a lever arm from A to E. If the ropes
were not crossed, the rope would lie along the dotted line BD, whose lever
arm is the distance AF, which is always greater than AE, therefore the
uncrossed ropes have more leverage.
Observe what takes place when the sled is steered to the left: The
distance AE decreases much more rapidly than AF, and when the crossed
ropes have lost all their power, the uncrossed ropes are still useful.
Many a spill has been caused by turning the sled to a position from which
the crossed ropes were unable to restore it to a central position, and
most of such spills would have been avoided if the ropes had not been
crossed.--Contributed by R. R. Raymond, Wilmington, Del.
Brush Hanger for a Dark Room
[Illustration]
Necessity may be the mother of invention, but it is also the grandmother
of application, and application is the practical side of invention.
Both the amateur and the professional photographer have been bothered
by spotting and unequal development of negatives and prints in tray
development, due to various causes, and sometimes by the presence of dirt
particles or the unequal or incomplete flowing of the developer over the
surface of the sensitive emulsion.
Most professionals and many amateurs are familiar with the use of the
camel's-hair brush to avoid failures of this character, and many of them
use a brush for local development in certain cases where it is necessary
or desirable. Usually the brush is kept in a small glass cup, somewhere
close at hand, but it is often in the way when not wanted and misplaced
when most needed. The brush can be kept within reach and handy for the
operator by arranging a light counterweight and pulley with a string
attached to the brush, so that, normally, the brush will hang from the
ceiling directly over the developing tray and can be obtained for use when
desired.
The detail of this brush-string and counterweight combination was
deliberately appropriated from the old plan of suspending the piece of
chalk over a billiard table, so that the players could easily reach it,
when needed, while, when released, it would be pulled out of the way by
the counterweight. The developing brush thus suspended is always ready,
never misplaced, nor in the way for other operations. This arrangement is
particularly convenient where a bathroom is used as a dark room, and the
shelf space is limited.
This same manner of counterweighting chalk on the billiard table may
be applied to a stove-lid lifter, to keep it within easy reach and
always cool enough to handle. The simplest and most inexpensive way of
making this apparatus is to cut off a small piece of lead pipe for a
counterweight, and, in the absence of a suitable pulley, use an ordinary
screweye fastened in the ceiling. The latter is really better than a
pulley because the string cannot run off the screweye. The arrangement is
better understood by referring to the sketch.
Lighting a Basement Light
There was no switch at the basement door and it was difficult to find
the droplight in the dark. Instead of going to the expense of placing a
switch, the contrivance illustrated and described was rigged up and proved
equal to the requirements.
A 7/8-in. piece of wood was cut about 6 in. long by 2 in. wide and a
recess made at one end for the socket, as shown. A 1/8-in. hole was
drilled in the center, about 2 in. from one end, and another, large enough
to receive the projection from a pull socket, about 2 in. from the other
end, or the end to be used as the bottom of the block. A clamp made of
spring brass, as shown, was screwed securely to the board, to clamp the
socket firmly. A wire was passed through the small hole and stretched
across the room from the door at a height to bring the light about 6 ft.
from the floor. Then the socket was clamped to the strip with the chain
passed through the hole cut for it. The cord attached to the chain was run
to the door casing, passed through a screweye and weighted with a nut or
some light object, to keep it taut. To light the lamp or put it out only
a pull on the string was necessary.
[Illustration: Socket Attachment to Turn a Basement Light On or Off from
a Distance]
The light can be slid along on the wire from one end of the room to
the other, or can be detached from the strip when desired by unhooking
the cord from the chain and taking the socket from the clamp. If more
desirable, the block can be fastened permanently to some object instead
of being on the wire.--Contributed by L. M. Eifel, Chicago.
Projecting Protractor Readings
A simple and efficient means of projecting protractor readings to a larger
size is shown in Fig. 1. One point of the compass is placed at the center
of the protractor and an elastic band is looped between the points. Then
the points are spread to the radius desired, and the protractor is read
where the elastic band crosses its scale. A light band should be used,
and looped as shown in Fig. 2. In this way a circle of any size may be
quickly divided, if a pencil mark is made each time the band comes over
the proper figure.--Contributed by Thos. L. Parker, Wibaux, Mont.
[Illustration: The Extension Marks can be Easily Read on the Protractor
under the Elastic Band (Fig. 1)]
[Illustration: (Fig. 2)]
Removing Grease from Paint
When removing grease from paint by using ordinary cleaners, the paint is
liable to come off in the washing. A good and cheaply applied method is to
rub the painted surface with a paste of ordinary whiting. This is allowed
to dry and when it is rubbed off with a cloth the dirt and grease is taken
away with it. The whiting is cheap and can be purchased at any drug store.
A Door Stop
[Illustration]
A very good door stop can be easily made of a piece of metal as shown
in the sketch. The metal is bent and fastened with screws to the wall
against which the door swings. The extending end fits under the door knob
and prevents it from striking the wall.--Contributed by C. R. Poole, Los
Angeles, California.
Stretching a Curtain without a Frame
A good way to avoid using the ordinary four-pole curtain stretcher is
to make use of the following method. Take the lace curtain and fold it
once lengthwise; then pin it up on a tightly stretched line with a large
number of clothespins, and slip a clean pole between the two sides to keep
it taut. This method not only stretches the curtain satisfactorily, but
saves considerable time otherwise required in pinning the curtain to the
four-sided frame.--Contributed by H. Wynning, Chicago, Ill.
[Illustration: A Lace Curtain Hung Double on a Line with a Pole Inserted
in the Fold]
Welding Small Resistance-Wire Connections
In making connections, especially in electrical heating devices subject
to high temperatures, it is out of the question to use solder, since the
temperature reached in the device would cause the solder to melt and run
out. A convenient arrangement for welding the connections of flatirons,
or any other fine wires, is shown in the illustration. The ends of the
wires to be welded are twisted together, and the weld is completed by
forming an arc, one electrode of which is the twisted connection and the
other a piece of carbon. The resistance of the heating unit in the iron is
sufficient to limit the amount of the current flow so that a short circuit
does not result.--Contributed by G. Irving Davis, Albany, N. Y.
[Illustration: An Arc is Formed with a Piece of Carbon, to Weld the
Twisted Ends of Wire Together]
Bench with Folding Seats
To provide a bench with seats, or shelves, which cannot easily be taken
away unless the table is brought along, hinged brackets are attached to
stationary crosspieces, which are fastened on the extended end braces of
the table. When in use, the brackets are turned down, thereby providing a
rigid support for anything that may be put on them. If it is desirable to
have the brackets out of the way, as when carrying the bench, it is only
necessary to fold them up.--Contributed by J. M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
[Illustration: Bench, or Table, with a Seat on Each Side That can be
Folded for Carrying Purposes]
Rim of Wire Wastebasket Wrapped with Felt
In offices where wire wastebaskets are used, the finish of the desks is
often marred by the top rim of the baskets rubbing against them. This
can be overcome by wrapping strips of felt around the rim to form a
buffer.--Contributed by Miss F. D. Schweiger, Kansas City, Mo.
[Illustration]
A Homemade Roller Coaster By J. H. Sanford
The popular roller coaster that furnishes untold amusement for the
multitudes that patronize amusement parks during the summer can be easily
duplicated in a smaller way on a vacant lot or back yard for the children
of the home; or the boys of a neighborhood could contribute to a fund and
construct quite an elaborate affair, on the same lines as described, for
the combined use of the owners. The one described was built with a track,
90 ft. long, 5 ft. high at one end and 3 ft. at the other, the track
between being placed on the ground. In coasting from the high end to the
low one, the coaster will run up on the incline, then drift back to within
24 ft. of the starting end. The car was built to seat four children or
two adults. The cost of all the materials for building this roller coaster
did not exceed $10.
[Illustration: Inexpensive Back-Yard Roller Coaster, Suitable for the
Enjoyment of the Young as Well as the Older Persons]
The track is of simple construction and requires but little description.
It is necessary to have it straight and nailed firmly to the crossties on
the ground and to the trestles where it is elevated. The ties and trestles
are placed about 6 ft. apart. The two trestles for the starting platform
should be set so that there is a slant to the track of about 6 in. for
starting the car without pushing it. The car can be carried back for
starting by adults, but for children a small rope can be used over the
platform to draw it back on the track, or a small windlass may be arranged
for the purpose.
[Illustration: Detail of the Car, Wheels and the Trestle, Which is
Attached to a Tie]
The main frame of the car is 3 ft. long and about 13 in. wide, firmly
fastened at the corners. The axles for the wheels are machine steel,
19 in. long, turned up on the ends and threaded in the manner of a bicycle
axle to fit parts of bicycle hubs, attached to the main frame as shown at
A. The wheels are solid, 4 in. in diameter and 1 in. thick, and are set
on the bicycle cone of the ball cup, after they are properly adjusted, and
securely fastened between washers with a nut on the end of the axle. Guide
wheels, B, are placed on the sides in the manner shown. These wheels are
ordinary truck casters, not the revolving kind, 2 in. in diameter.
About 1/2-in. clearance should be provided between the guide wheels B
and the guard rail C, on the track. When the car is made in this manner
it runs close to the track and there is no place where a child can get a
foot or hand injured under or at the sides of the car. The one described
has been used by all the children, large and small, for a year without
accident.
Door-Bell Alarm
A simple door-bell alarm for informing one when the door of a shop or
dwelling is opened is shown in the accompanying sketch. It consists of a
piece of spring brass, A, bent into a circle in the center so that it may
be clamped on the doorknob bar by means of a small bolt or screw. The two
ends of this piece should be separated as shown and a second piece, B,
mounted on the door so that its outwardly projecting end is between the
ends of the piece A. One terminal of an ordinary vibrating bell circuit is
then connected under the head of the clamp screw, and the other terminal
under one of the screws holding the piece B in place on the door. It is
now obvious that the bell circuit will be completed and the alarm sounded
when the knob is turned. Make sure that the piece A is bent so that the
circuit is completed before the latch has moved a sufficient amount to
allow the door to open.
[Illustration: Wiring Diagram and Connections to an Electric Bell That
Rings When a Door Knob is Turned]
The circuit leading to and from the switch may be completed through the
hinges of the door, but it would be better to use small coil springs as
shown. There would then be no likelihood of the circuit being open at any
time, which might occur if the hinges were used.
* * * * *
Discolored coffee and teapots may be restored to their
original brightness by boiling them a few minutes in
a solution of borax water.
[Illustration]
A Playground Ferris Wheel
The whole wheel is carried on two uprights, each 3 by 4 in., by 10 ft.
long. In the upper ends of these pieces, A, a half circle is cut out to
receive the main shaft B. The end of the uprights are sunk 3 ft. into
the earth and about 4 ft. apart, then braced as shown. They are further
braced by wires attached to rings which are secured with staples near the
top. The bearings should each have a cap to keep the shaft in place. These
can be made of blocks of wood with a semicircle cut out, the blocks being
nailed over the shaft, while it is in place, the nails entering the ends
of the uprights.
[Illustration: Detail of the Uprights, Axle and Spokes, and the End and
Side Elevations of the Completed Wheel, Showing Braces and Cars Attached]
The main shaft C is made of a 2-1/2-in. square piece of good material,
4 ft. long. The ends are made round to serve as bearings, and the square
part is fitted with the spokes or car carriers. These consist of 4 pieces,
each 1 in. thick, 4 in. wide and 13 ft. long. In the center of each piece
cut a notch one-half the thickness so that when each pair of pieces is
crossed they will fit together with the surfaces smooth, as shown at D. A
square hole is cut through the pieces as shown to fit on the square part
of the main axle. While it is not shown in the illustration, it is best to
strengthen this joint with another piece of wood, cut to fit on the axle
and securely attached to the spokes.
The cars or carriers are made of two sugar barrels cut in half. The hoops
are then securely nailed, both inside and outside; a block of wood, E,
securely attached to the half barrel on the outside, and another block
on the inside opposite the outside block. Holes are bored 2-1/2 ft. from
the ends of the spokes and a bolt run through them and through the blocks
on the edges of the half barrels. The extending ends of the spokes are
used to propel the wheel. Four children can ride in the wheel at one
time.--Contributed by Maurice Baudier, New Orleans, La.
A Merry-Go-Round Pole
An inexpensive merry-go-round can be made of a single pole set in the
ground where there is sufficient vacant space for the turning of the
ropes. The pole may be of gas pipe or wood, long enough to extend about
12 ft. above the ground. An iron wheel is attached on the upper end so
that it will revolve easily on an axle, which may be an iron pin driven
into the post. A few iron washers placed on the pin under the wheel will
reduce the friction.
[Illustration: The Ropes being Tied to the Wheel Rim will Easily Turn
around the Pole]
Ropes of varying lengths are tied to the rim of the wheel. The rider
takes hold of a rope and runs around the pole to start the wheel in
motion, then he swings clear of the ground. Streamers of different
colors and flowers for special occasions may be attached to make a pretty
display.--Contributed by J. Bert Mitchell, Wichita, Kans.
A Theatrical Night Scene with the Appearance of Fireflies
Use small shining Christmas-tree balls, about the size of a hickory nut,
strung on strong black linen threads. The thread is put loosely over a
hook at the back of the stage among the evergreens that are used for the
background. The ends of the threads are brought, like a pair of reins, to
the front of the stage, diagonally, and there manipulated by some one in
a wing near the front, standing high enough to prevent the threads from
touching the heads of the actors. These bright little particles darting
back and forth among the trees appear very lifelike, and with the addition
of a crescent moon just peeping through the trees, the likeness to a
summer night is quite striking.
The moon effect is made by using a piece of dark cardboard, about
2 ft. square, covered thickly with small green boughs, and by cutting
a crescent-shaped opening in the center, covering it with yellow tissue
paper. This cardboard is placed well back in the trees and a lantern hung
behind it.--Contributed by Miss S. E. Jocelyn, New Haven, Conn.
Hulling Walnuts
Procure a barrel that is water-tight and mount it on a shaft so that it
runs between standards like a barrel churn. Fill the barrel about half
full of walnuts, cover them with water and throw in a small quantity
of gravel as grinding material. Close the opening tightly and turn the
barrel for about 20 minutes. The walnuts will come out clean and smooth
as glass.--Contributed by Arthur Seufert, The Dalles, Oregon.
Stick for Lowering Top Sash of a Window
To make it easy to raise and lower the upper sash of a bathroom window
which is behind the bathtub I devised the following: Procuring two
screweyes I opened one sufficiently to slip it into the other as shown at
A. Then one was screwed into the top rail of the sash and the other into
the end of a light stick a little longer than the length of upper sash.
[Illustration: The Stick is Fastened to the Window Sash with Screweyes
and is Always Ready for Use]
The device is left on the window permanently and affords a ready means of
handling the sash without stepping into the bathtub, which would otherwise
be necessary.--Contributed by W. E. Morey, Chicago.
An Adjustable Hacksaw Frame
The frame is constructed of cold-rolled steel, 1/4 in. in diameter and
17-1/2 in. long, bent into the shape shown and then cut in two parts at A.
Starting at a point about 5/16 in. from the ends made by the cut, drill
1/8-in. holes, then space three other holes 1 in. between centers and
drill them 1/8 in. in diameter.
[Illustration: The Frame is Shaped of Cold-Rolled Steel and Made
Adjustable with a Piece of Steel Tubing]
A piece of steel tubing, 1/4 in. in inside diameter and 6-3/4 in. long, is
notched on the ends to receive the pins B and C. Slots are cut in the ends
D and E, to admit the blade of a saw, and half-round notches filed on the
outside surface for holding pins used in the hole of the saw blade. The
spring of the steel will be sufficient to keep the saw blade in place. The
1/8-in. holes in the frame will permit adjustment for different lengths
of blades.--Contributed by Clarence B. Hanson, Fitchburg, Mass.
A Bedroom Cabinet
The cabinet shown in the illustration can be made an ornament with a
little care in workmanship and a choice selection of materials. The
cabinet may be either fastened to the head or foot of the bed, facing in
either of two directions.
[Illustration: The Cabinet Makes a Handy Place to Keep Necessary Articles
for a Sick Person]
The size of the cabinet will depend on the choice of the maker, and if the
bed is brass, the wood can be finished natural and fitted with brass bands
for brackets and holding clips.--Contributed by W. E. Crane, Cleveland, O.
A Dull Black for Cameras
Such parts of a camera that are apt to reflect light must be covered with
a dull black. A mixture for this purpose is made of lampblack, about
a teaspoonful, and enough gold size to make a paste as thick as putty.
Add about twice the volume of turpentine and apply to the parts with a
camel's-hair brush.
As the turpentine fumes are detrimental to the sensitive plate, the camera
should be left open until these fumes have entirely disappeared.
A Door Fastener
[Illustration]
Sometimes it is necessary to fasten a door in a manner to prevent children
from opening it, yet so that it is easily opened from either side. This
can be done by putting a screw or curtain hook on the inside of the door
frame and using a piece of cord long enough to loop over both hooks. A
person coming in or out can remove the loop from either side.--Contributed
by John A. Cohalan, Philadelphia, Pa.
* * * * *
A floor wax can be made by melting 1 lb. of yellow
beeswax in 1/2 pt. of hot, raw linseed oil; then
adding 1 pt. of turpentine.
Umbrella Used as a Flower Trellis
Procure a discarded umbrella and remove the cloth, leaving only the steel
frame. Join the ends of the ribs by running a fine wire through the tip
of each rib and giving it one turn around to hold them at equal distances
apart. The handle is then inserted in the ground and some climbing vine
planted beneath it. The plant will climb all over the steel frame and
make a very attractive lawn piece.--Contributed by John F. Campbell, N.
Somerville, Massachusetts.
[Illustration: Frame Supporting a Vine]
Combined Shade and Awning
An ordinary window shade makes a good awning as well as a shade, if
it is attached to the outside of the window with the device shown in
the illustration. The shade and spring roller are put into a box for
protection from the weather and the box is fastened in the window casing
at the top. A narrow slit on the under side of the box permits the shade
to be drawn out. The stick at the end is removed and a U-shaped wire
inserted in the hem in its stead. The wire is bent so the ends may be
inserted in holes in the window casing. As the shade is drawn out, it is
extended outward by the wire in the position of an awning.--Contributed
by Arthur Kesl, Chicago, Ill.
[Illustration: Shade Attachments]
Vaulting-Pole Attachments
Some means must be provided on vaulting-pole standards to allow for the
free release of the pole should the vaulter strike it in going over. One
of the simplest of the many devices that can be used for this purpose
is shown in Fig. 1. It is made of heavy wire, bent and slipped over the
standard as shown in Fig. 2. The projection on the inside of the link is
used similar to the tongue of a buckle in adjusting the height of the pole
on the standards.
[Illustration: Pole Adjuster on Standard (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3)]
Each standard has a series of holes on its front side. These holes
may be numbered for convenience. The pole in place is shown in Fig.
3.--Contributed by John Dunlap, Craghead, Tollcross, England.
Separating Drinking Glasses
When two thin glasses are put one into the other they often become stuck
and cannot be removed. To separate them with ease, set the lower glass in
warm (not hot) water and pour cold water in the upper one. The expansion
of the lower and the contraction of the upper will make release an easy
matter.--Contributed by Maurice Baudier, New Orleans, La.
* * * * *
Bronze striping, when thoroughly dry, should be
covered with a thin coat of white shellac to keep it
from tarnishing.
A Magic String
Procure a few pieces of cotton string, each about 1-1/2 ft. long, and fill
them well with soap. Prepare a brine by dissolving three tablespoonfuls
of salt in a cup of water. Place the strings in the brine and allow them
to soak for two hours, or longer. It is necessary that they be thoroughly
saturated with the brine.
When taken out of the brine and thoroughly dried, suspend one of them
from a nail on a ledge, and hang a finger ring on its lower end. Apply a
lighted match to the string and allow it to burn. The ring will not fall,
but will hang by the ash.--Contributed by C. Frank Carber, Dorchester,
Mass.
Edging Flower Beds
To improve the appearance of a flower bed, it must be edged evenly and
quite often. As this became a tiresome task, I constructed an edger, as
shown in the sketch. It consists of a wheel on a 4-ft. length of material,
2 by 4 in. in size, made tapering and having a cross handle, 18 in. long,
attached to its end. The wheel is 8 in. in diameter, and the cutter is
attached, as shown, across the center of the wheel axle, to make the
edger turn easily on curves and corners. The cutter is 12 in. long and
turned under 1-1/2 in. It is pushed along in the same manner as a garden
cultivator.--Contributed by A. S. Thomas, Amherstburg, Can.
[Illustration: An Edger, Similar to a Garden Plow, for Quickly Trimming
the Sod around a Flower Bed]
An Electric Stirring Machine
Desiring a stirring machine for mixing photographic chemicals, I set about
to design the one shown in the illustration. The base and upright are made
of pine, 1 in. thick, the former 8 in. wide and 10 in. long, the latter
8 in. wide and 16 in. long. A 3/8 in. slot, 12 in. long, is cut in the
center of the upright, and two pieces of sheet metal or tin, 2 in. wide
and 12 in. long, bent at right angles along the center of their length,
are placed at equal distances, on each side of the slot, and fastened with
screws. The distance between these pieces depends on the motor used, as
its base should fit snugly between them.
[Illustration: A Self-Contained Electric Stirring Machine for Use in
Mixing Photographic Chemicals]
A small battery motor is purchased, and its shaft is removed and replaced
with one measuring 10 in. in length. To the end of the shaft is soldered
a piece of wire, bent as shown in the sketch. A bolt is attached to the
center of the motor base, so that its threaded end will pass through the
slot in the upright, where it is held with a wing nut. The battery cells
may be placed on the back of the upright and a small switch mounted at
the top and in front.--Contributed by Ray F. Yates, Niagara Falls, N. Y.
A Clothes Rack
The rack is constructed of hard wood throughout, and as each piece is
made, it should be sandpapered and varnished or otherwise finished. The
plan view is shown in Fig. 1; the construction of an arm, in Fig. 2; and
the pin, in Fig. 3.
[Illustration: Any Number of Arms Up to Its Limit may be Used at a Time
(Fig. 1)]
[Illustration: (Fig. 2)]
[Illustration: (Fig. 3)]
[Illustration: (Fig. 4)]
The base is 7/8 in. thick and of the dimensions shown in Fig. 4. The
projection on each side, measuring 6-1/2 in. long and 1 in. wide, is made
separately and glued to the main part after dressing and beveling the
edges.
The shelf consists of material 2 in. thick and made in a semicircular form
on a radius of 5-3/4 in. On this arc, lay off chords, as shown in Fig.
1; the first ones on each side being one-half the length of the others.
Carefully square up the edges for appearance. To lay off the post holes,
scribe an arc of a circle on a 4-7/8-in. radius. Start at the edge on this
arc and lay off eight chords of equal lengths, and bore 1/2-in. holes on
the marks.
The posts are turned up, as shown by the detail, Fig. 3. This will require
seven posts and two half posts. The half posts are secured to the base
with small brads. The round part at the end is turned slightly tapering,
so as to make a tight fit in the hole of the shelf. After stringing the
posts on a piece of brass wire, 1/8 in. in diameter, and bending it in
the proper shape, the posts are glued in the holes.
A T-shaped slot with a long top and a short leg is cut out with a scroll
saw in one end of each arm. Make sure to have each slot exactly 1/2 in.
from the upper side of each arm. All edges should be well rounded to
prevent tearing of the clothes.
Make a semicircular platform for the arms to bear upon when extended. This
may be either half of a turned disk or built up in the three segments,
each fastened with screws to the base. If the brass wire is exactly 1 in.
from the shelf and the thickness of the wood between the T-slot and the
upper edge of the arm 1/2 in., the thickness of the platform should be
slightly under 1/2 in. to make the arms rest horizontally when they are
extended.
The shelf is fastened to the base with three or four 2-in. screws, and the
ends of the brass wire are run through holes in the base and clinched on
the back side. The rack may be fastened in place on the kitchen wall with
two large wood screws, or, if the wall is brick, with expansion bolts.
The fastening in either case must be secure to hold the heavy weight of
wet clothes.--Contributed by D. A. Price, Wilmington, Del.
How to Make a Pair of Foot Boats
On ponds or small lakes not deep enough for a boat one can use the foot
boats, as illustrated, for walking on the water. The boats are made of
white wood, known as basswood, as this wood is easily bent when steamed,
and the curved part should be shaped neatly.
[Illustration: Foot Boats for Walking on Shallow Water Where a Boat cannot
be Used]
Two sides are cut out, as shown, and the boards are nailed or, better
still, screwed to them. Each straight part may consist of one piece, in
which case there will be no joints to make waterproof, but if boards of
sufficient size cannot be had, pieces can be used. In this instance the
edges should be planed smooth, so that a good joint may be had, which can
be made watertight with white lead.