The art of angling is generally viewed as one of the world's greatest
recreations, and while each and every phase of fishing may be said to
possess certain charms of its own, fly fishing for trout is regarded by
most well-informed sportsmen as the alpha and omega of the angler's art.
This is so because the trout family are uncommonly wary and game fish,
and the tackle used for their capture is of finer balance and less clumsy
than any employed in angling for the coarser game fishes. If he would
take full advantage of any sport and reap the greatest pleasure from a
day spent in the open, it is really necessary for the sportsman to get
together a good outfit. It is not essential to have a very expensive one,
but it should be good of its kind, well proportioned for the purpose for
which it is to be used. The beginner, who buys without good knowledge of
the articles required, or fails to use careful discrimination, is almost
certain to accumulate a varied assortment of junk, attractive enough in
appearance, perhaps, but well-nigh useless when it is tested out on the
stream. A good representative outfit, then, is of the first importance;
it means making a good beginning by initiating the novice in the sport
under the most favorable conditions. Let us then consider the selection
of a good fishing kit, a well-balanced rod, the kind of a reel to use with
it, the right sort of a line, flies, and the other few items found in the
kit of the practical and experienced trout fisherman.
Selecting a Good Fly Rod
The ordinary fishing pole may be bought offhand at almost any hardware
store, but a well-balanced rod for fly fishing should be well tested
out beforehand. The requirements call for a rod of comparatively light
weight, a rod that is elastic and resilient, and yet strong enough to
prove durable under the continued strain of much fishing. If the angler
has made his own rod, as suggested in former chapters, he will have a good
dependable fly rod, but the large majority of anglers who are about to
purchase their first fishing kit should carefully consider the selection
of the rod. At the outset it must be understood that good tackle is
simply a matter of price, the finest rods and reels are necessarily high
in price, and the same thing may be said of lines and flies. Providing
the angler has no objection to paying $15, or more, for a rod, the choice
will naturally fall upon the handmade split bamboo. For this amount of
money a fair quality fly rod may be purchased, the finer split bamboos
costing anywhere up to $50, but under $15 it is very doubtful whether the
angler can procure a built-up rod that is in every way satisfactory. The
question may arise, Is a split-bamboo rod necessary? The writer's own long
experience says that it is not, and that a finely made solid-wood rod, of
greenheart or dagame, is quite as satisfactory in the hands of the average
angler as the most expensive split bamboo. A good rod of this sort may be
had for $10, and with reasonable care ought to last a lifetime.
The points to look for in a fly rod, whether the material is split bamboo
or solid wood, is an even taper from the butt to the tip; that is, the rod
should register a uniform curve, or arc, the entire length. For general
fly casting 9 ft. is a handy length, and a rod of 6-1/2 oz. weight will
prove more durable than a lighter tool. A good elastic rod is wanted
for fly casting, but a too willowy or whippy action had best be avoided.
However, for small-brook fishing, where the overgrown banks prohibit long
casts, a somewhat shorter and stiffer rod will be more useful. For casting
in large northern streams, where the current is swift and the trout run to
a larger size, a 9-1/2 or 10-ft. rod of 8 oz. weight is often preferred.
Of course, the veteran angler can safely use a much lighter rod than the
beginner, and one occasionally meets a man on the stream that uses a 5-oz.
rod for pretty heavy fishing. To be on the safe side, the novice will make
no mistake in choosing a rod of fair length and conservative weight.
When selecting a rod in the tackle shop, do not rest content with a mere
examination of the appearance, but have the dealer affix a reel of the
weight and size intended to be used with it. By reeling on a short length
of line and reeving it through the guides and then fastening the end to
a weight lying upon the floor, a very good idea of the rod's behavior
may be gained, since by reeling in the line and putting tension on the
rod its elasticity and curve may be seen and felt as well as in actual
fishing. To give the utmost satisfaction, the rod should fit its owner,
and several rods should be tried until one is found that most fully meets
the angler's idea of what a rod should be. If one happens to have a good
fly reel, by all means take it along and attach it to the rod while making
the tests. It is practically impossible to gauge the balance of a rod
without affixing the reel, and many a finely balanced tool will appear
badly balanced until the proper-weight reel is affixed to it.
The Proper Kind of Reel
For fly fishing nothing is so good as the English style of click
reel, which is made with a one-piece revolving side plate and with the
handle affixed directly to it. Any kind of a balanced-handle reel is
an out-and-out nuisance on the fly rod, because it has no advantage in
quickly recovering the line, and the projecting handle is forever catching
the line while casting. In fly casting, the length of cast is regulated
by the amount of line taken from the reel before the cast is made, and
it is while "pumping" this slack line through the guides, in making the
actual cast, that the balanced or projecting handle is very apt to foul
the line. A good reel that is smooth-running like a watch will cost about
$10, but a very good one may be had for $5, and cheaper ones, while not
so durable, may be used with fair satisfaction. The heavier multiplying
reels, so essential for bait casting from a free reel, are altogether
unsuited for the fly rod, being too heavy when placed below the hand,
which is the only proper position for the reel when fly casting. The
single-action click reel, having a comparatively large diameter, but being
quite narrow between the plates, is the one to use, and hard rubber, or
vulcanite, is a good material for the side plates, while the trimmings
may be of german silver or aluminum. The all-metal reel is of about equal
merit, but whatever the material, the most useful size is one holding
about 40 yd. of No. E size waterproof line. A reel of this capacity will
measure about 3 in. in diameter and have a width of about 7/8 in. between
plates. A narrow-spooled reel of this type enables the fisherman to reel
in the line plenty fast enough. Owing to the fact that the reel is placed
below the grip on fly rods, a rather light-weight instrument is needed to
balance the rod. Of the two extremes, it is better to err on the side of
lightness, because a heavy reel makes a butt-heavy rod and, throwing extra
weight on the wrist and arm, makes casting increasingly difficult after an
hour's fishing. An old hand at the game will appreciate this point better
than the novice.
[Illustration: The English Pattern Is the Best Type of Reel for Trout
Fishing, and a Gun-Metal, or Other Dark Finish, Is Better than Shiny
Nickelplate]
[Illustration: Fly Book with Clips for Holding Snelled Flies, So That the
Gut is Kept Straight between Pads of Felt]
[Illustration: Aluminum Box with Clips for Holding Flies Tied on Eyed
Hooks, Each Clip Having Places for Seven Flies]
[Illustration: A Folding-Handle Landing Net may be Left at Home, but Most
Old Anglers Like to Have It Handy When Needed]
[Illustration: Willow Creel, or Basket, Leather-Bound with a Metal
Fastening, the Number Three Size being About Right]
[Illustration: Leader Box of Black-Finished Aluminum with Felt Pads to
Keep the Leaders Moist and Pliable]
[Illustration: A Three-Joint Fly Rod with Cork Hand Grasp and Extra Tip,
and Rod Case Made of Aluminum Tubing]
The Kind of Line to Use
The fly-casting line used by a veteran is generally of silk, enameled
and having a double taper; that is, the line is thickest in the center
and gradually tapers to a smaller diameter at each end. Single-tapered
lines are likewise extensively used, and while they cost less, they are
tapered at one end only and cannot be reversed to equalize the wear caused
by casting. The level line, which has the same diameter throughout its
entire length, is the line most generally used, but the cast cannot be so
delicately made with it. For the beginner, however, the level line in size
No. E is a good choice. For small-brook fishing, No. F is plenty large
enough. In choosing the size of line, there is a common-sense rule among
fly casters to select a line proportioned to the weight of the rod. For
a light rod a light line is the rule, and for the heavier rod a stouter
line is the logical choice. If the rod is of a too stiff action, use a
comparatively heavy line, and it will limber up considerably; if the rod
is extremely "whippy," use the lightest line that can be purchased, and
used with safety.
A Fine Leader Marks the Expert Caster
The leader for trout is preferably of single gut, and as fine as the
angler's skill will allow. The fly caster's rule is to use a leader whose
breaking strain is less than the line, then, when the tackle parts, it is
simply a question of putting on a new leader and the more expensive line
is saved. Ready-made leaders may be purchased, or the angler can tie them
up as desired. For length, a 3 or 3-1/2-ft. leader is about right for
average fishing. Longer leaders are used, and while they sometimes are of
advantage, the 3-ft. length is more useful. A longer leader is awkward to
handle because the loop is apt to catch in the top of the rod when reeling
in the line to bring the fish close to the landing net. Leaders may be had
with a loop at each end, or with loops tied in, for using a cast of two or
three flies. For all average casting, the two-fly cast is the best, but
the expert angler uses the single-fly very often. For lake fishing, the
single large fly is generally preferred. For using two flies, the leader
is provided with three loops, one at the top, another at the bottom, and
an extra loop tied in about 15 in. from the lower loop. In fly casting,
the first, or upper, fly is known as the "dropper," and the lower one as
the "tail" fly. For the single-fly cast but two loops are required.
Gut used for leaders should be carefully selected, and only those lengths
which are of uniform diameter and well rounded chosen, the lengths which
show flat and rough spots being discarded. Dry gut that is very brittle
should be handled very little, and previous to a day's fishing the leaders
must be soaked in water over night to make them pliable, then coiled in
between felt pads of the leader box to keep them in fishing shape. After
use, put the frayed leaders aside and dry them out between the flannel
leaves of the fly book.
Gut is the product of the silkworm, and the best quality is imported
from Spain. It comes in bundles, or hanks, of 1,000 strands, 10 to 20 in.
long and in different thicknesses, or strengths. The heaviest are known
as "Royal" and "Imperial," for salmon; "Marana," for extra-heavy bass;
"Padron," for bass; "Regular," for heavy trout; "Fina," for light trout,
and "Refina," for extra-light trout. The grades "Fina" and "Refina" are
well suited for all average fly fishing, while the heavier sizes are
useful for heavy large fishing.
To make the leaders, soak the strands of gut in warm water over night
until they are soft and pliable. Select the strands for each leader of
the desired thickness and length so that the finished leader will have
a slight taper to one end only. By using the "Fina" gut for the upper
length and tying in two lengths of "Refina" gut, a nicely tapered leader
of light weight is obtained. Begin the leader by uniting the strands
together to make it the correct length, three 12-in. strands being about
right for average casting. The "single water knot" is the strongest and
neatest to use. Make it by taking the thick end of the strand and doubling
it back enough to tie in a common knot just large enough for the line to
pass through and drawing it up tightly. Tie a single loose knot in the
other end of the strand, about 1/8 in. in diameter and close to the end;
take the next thickest strand of gut, thread the thicker end through the
loose knot and tie a second square knot around the strand, as shown at A.
By pulling on the two long ends the loops can be drawn up tightly, and
the two knots will slide together and make a neat and very strong knot.
Repeat this operation until as many strands of gut are knotted together as
required to make the leader of the desired length. For making the loop at
the ends, a double-bighted knot, tied as shown at B, is used. If a dropper
fly is desired, do not pull the water knot tightly, but first insert a
short length of gut with a common knot at the end and a loop in the other,
then draw the water knot up tightly, and a short snell will be made for
attaching the fly as usually.
[Illustration: (A) The Single Water Knot Used in Tying Leaders; (B) a
Good Knot for Making the Loop at the End of the Leaders; (C) an Angler's
Knot Used for Attaching the Line to the Leader, and (D) a Jam Knot for
Attaching Eyed Flies, or Hooks, to the Leader or Snell]
Flies for Trout Fishing
The standard selection of artificial flies numbers about 60, but the
average fisherman will find about 24 selected patterns to answer every
need. For making up the most "killing" flies for the trout season, the
following can be recommended: Use red ibis, stone fly, cinnamon, red
spinner, and parchmenee belle, for April; turkey brown, yellow dun, iron
blue, spinner, montreal and red fox, for May; spider, black gnat, silver
doctor, gray drake, orange dun, and green drake, for June; July dun,
grizzly king, pale evening dun, red ant, and brown palmer, for July;
Seth green, coachman, shad, governor, August dun, and royal coachman, for
August, and black palmer, willow, whirling dun, queen of the water, and
blue bottle, for September.
To attach a line to the leader the well-known "angler's knot" is mostly
used. This knot is shown at C. The snelled fly is attached by passing
the loop over the loop of the leader and inserting the fly through the
leader loop. When eyed flies are used they are often attached direct to
the leader, or a looped snell may be used as in the ordinary American-tied
fly. To attach the eyed fly direct to the leader, the common "jam knot,"
shown at D, is mostly used, and when the slipknot is drawn up tightly and
the extra end cut off it makes a small, neat knot, not apt to slip.
Catch to Hold Two Joining Doors Open
Where two open doors meet, a catch to keep them open can be made of
a piece of wire, shaped as shown. The hooks at the ends of the wire
are slipped over the shanks of the knobs.--Contributed by W. A. Saul,
Lexington, Mass.
[Illustration]
* * * * *
Strips cut from wood dishes used by grocers for
butter, thoroughly soaked in warm water, will make
excellent repair pieces for market baskets.
Bicycle Oil Lamp Changed to Electric Light
The desire for an electric light for my bicycle caused me to change a
fine oil lamp, too good to be thrown away, so that an electric globe
could be used in it. The oil cup of the lamp was removed, and a wood push
button fastened in its place with three screws. Before fastening the push
button, a porcelain socket was attached to its bottom, and connections
were made between socket and push button, ends being left protruding for
connection to the battery. A small flash-light battery was fastened to the
lamp bracket. A small rubber washer was placed between the head of the
push button on the switch and the cap, so that in screwing the cap up,
a permanent connection was made. The lamp can be used as a lantern when
removed from the bicycle.--Contributed by Lee Baker, Chicago.
[Illustration: A Push Button with Socket and Miniature Globe Used in an
Oil Lamp for Electric Light]
Lifter for Removing Eggs from Hot Water
An improvement over the customary way of removing eggs from hot water with
a tablespoon, is to use an old-fashioned coffee strainer. This brings
up the eggs without carrying hot water with them.--Contributed by L. E.
Turner, New York, N. Y.
* * * * *
Genuine oxalic acid may be used for removing stains
from all woods except mahogany.
Double Top for a Table
The need of two tables in a kitchen where there was space for only one,
was the cause of devising the arrangement shown in the illustration. An
ordinary kitchen table was mounted on trunk casters or domes so that it
could be moved easily, whereupon a zinc top was put on it with raised
edges. The table was then placed against the wall where it was to be used,
and an extra, plain top fitted to it and hinged to the wall.
[Illustration: An Extra Top Covers the Table When It is Placed against
the Wall]
When it was desired to wash dishes on the zinc top, the table was pulled
out without disturbing the articles on the hinged top. After drying the
dishes, they are removed from the zinc top to the hinged part, and the
table is pushed back against the wall.--Contributed by Louis Drummond,
Philadelphia, Pa.
[Illustration: The Table When Drawn Out Uncovers the Zinc Tray, Fastened
on Top]
[Illustration: As a General Thing, the Veteran Fly Fisherman Prefers to
Wade with the Current, and Fishes the Water in Front of Him by Making
Diagonal Casts across the Stream]
Fishing-Rod Making and Angling By Stillman Taylor