Draw a line O-H; from O, down, mark three-fourths of an inch. From O
draw a short line over to 3, and make it 2½ inches. From O down to B is
one-fourth of breast, equal to 9 inches on a 36 breast. Point F is in the
centre, between O and B; from ¾ to D is the length of the waist, and to
H the full length of garment. Draw lines across at F, B and D. Between F
and B, directly in the centre, make a mark C, and draw a line across.
Go in at the waist 1⅓ inch from line at D; draw line from ¾ to 1½ for the
centre of back, and curve below D to H. From 1½, at waist, measure in to
4 3½ inches to 4 inches.
On line C make the width of back one-third of breast and one inch and
draw a line up.
On the top of shoulder draw a line from 3 to 14, and raise it one-half
inch above 14; commencing there, exactly at the crossing of the lines,
begin to curve past 16 and 4 to 1 at bottom. Having finished the back,
first make a line across in the middle, between ¾ and F, from E over;
next lay a sleeve pattern, of regular size, on 15 as when sewn in the
arm-hole; holding it at 15, swing it down till the upper part of the
sleeve-head rests about one-half inch below line E, at 13, and when in
this position draw along the round of the sleeve, which will give exactly
the round as shown on the Figure from 15, past 13, to 2.
[Illustration: Fig. 36.]
Next, placing the width over from B on the back line, measure to 10,
24 inches, and curve the sleeve from 2 to 10, running below the line 2
inches. Point G is about 12 inches below the waist, and from this place
1 inch more than one-quarter of the hips to 8, and draw from 6, which is
one-quarter of hip from D, a line through 8 to 9; then finish the curve
at bottom, and shape the round of front of sleeve to any desired shape.
The front is constructed by drawing a line from O down the front edge or
centre of front.
[Illustration: Fig. 37.]
[Illustration: Fig. 38.]
From O over to shoulder point is one-sixth breast, the same down to 3;
also go down one-eighth breast and draw a line across; curve the neck
from ⅙ to 3, and apply the same width of shoulder as the back on the
front, ⅙ to 10. From O down is one-half breast to E, there draw a line
over to 8 and make last point, from E, one-fourth breast less 1 inch.
Measure the distance on the back, from B to H, and place it from E to P,
then sweep the bottom of the front by the shoulder-point, which gives
line P to K. Make the distance over from H to J one-quarter of the hips,
and 1 to 1½, inch more; draw a line from K through J to L. Next measure
the back from 6 to 9 and place the same from K up to L; curve arm-hole
from 10 through 8 to L. Add 3 inches for a lap of double-breasted style;
mark and space the buttons.
[Illustration]
The under-sleeve is cut like the upper part from 2 to 10 and 11, like
the outside curve. The inside curve from 2 to 7 is short, just as much
as is needed to sew in the front—to find how much this should be we make
a notch opposite 14 and one at 2, which is about 10 inches from 14. This
measure, less 1 inch, is marked from 10 to 16, and at that point make
another notch. What is left from 16 to L must be placed from 2 to 7, and
this curve should be like curve on front. Lastly, draw a line from 7 to
the star, which finishes the whole garment.
In order to draft a dolman pattern which will fit well and hang with a
good balance the same manner of drafting as that which produces a good
shaped sack should be used, then the balance and hang of the garment will
be equally as good as in a tight-fitting sack, and a dolman can then be
cut as close as a sack, if so desired.
The manner of drafting the back, side-body and front, are, in fact, just
like a sack, the main difference being in the shape of the sleeve. The
sleeve, even in the upper part, must be like an ordinary coat-sleeve,
while the lower part may be any of the various shapes in fashion.
In drafting make a line to start on from O to F (Figure 37); from O down
is three-fourths inch, and from O over to top line is 2¼ inches to 1.
From O to B is one-fourth of breast, 9 inches of a 36 size. Point D is
in the middle, between O and B, and point 6 is in the middle, between O
and D. From ¾, which is the top of the back, measure down to C 15 inches,
and to F 40 inches, the full length. Point E is 6 inches, or one-third of
breast, below the waist-line at C. At all these points draw lines across.
From B to H is one-third and 1 inch, equal, on 36 breast, to 7 inches;
draw a line up to J; in the middle, between I, the point where the two
lines cross and H, mark point K. At the waist-line go in from straight
line C to 3 one and one-half inches, then draw line down from ¾ to 3 and
from 3 to F. Also draw a straight line at right angles with waist-line
from 3 to 6 at bottom.
Make the width at waist, from 3 to 4, about 3 inches, and draw also a
line down to 7. Now curve back-seam, as shown, and whatever amount there
is from 6 to F place from 7 to 8, and curve from 4 past 5 to 8.
Draw a line from I to 1, raise above I to J three-fourths inch, and
curve the shoulder. Starting from J up upright line, curve back seam to
4 and 8; also mark a dim line from J past I, K to G, just like in a sack
back—the dotted line shows that. Point G is one-fourth of breast, or 9
inches, from B.
Notice that the curve on the back, from C to 3, is a trifle outside of
the straight line, and that below 3 it runs a shade inside to give an
appearance of a long waist, and below E it curves outside again to F.
[Illustration: Fig. 39.]
The inside seam from J past breast-line should be very nearly straight,
and begin to curve only near the waist, and from 5 down it must have the
same curve as outside line below point E to F.
Now have a sleeve cut for a 36 size and lay this on to K, as shown, so
that the sleeve-head rests against the line from K to I; then in the
centre, between I and K, find point 2 and stick a pin.
Now turn to Figure 38: In the middle, between line A and D, draw line E;
keeping it pinned at 2, move the lower part of the sleeve towards the
back till the top of the sleeve-head just touches line E at 10. While
it lays thus draw along the top from 2 to 10 and 9, also down from 9, in
front of sleeve pattern, to line B. This gives the outline of the sleeve,
but we modify it by drawing a corrected line from 10, inside of point 9
of sleeve, down to 12.
[Illustration]
Figure 39 gives the balance of the sleeve. First draw a line in the
centre, between lines B and C, which places line D.
Then take out the pin which was placed in the sleeve at point 2, and
without moving the sleeve stick a pin at point U; this point is found
two-thirds of the width of the sleeve forward. When this is done take
hold of the sleeve at its lower point and move it upwards, till point T
of sleeve rests on line D at N, and then curve from 16 to N. To produce
this curve just right take the distance from line B at 18 to line D at
17, and place the same from 17 to 19, and draw a straight line from 19 to
18, then curve line from 16, resting on line at 20, thence to N. From N
curve form of sleeve to 21 and 15, and to 13 for one style of sleeve, or
from U to 21 and 14 for another style.
Go in from 4 to 5 three-quarters of an inch; curve from 10, past 2,
touching the back, and along it past line B, and thence separate from the
back to 5 and 14—this last line must touch at point 13 on the straight
line which was drawn down from point 4 on Fig. 37 and is marked 5 on the
same.