Lay the back down on paper and extend all the lines across, line A, B,
C, D and bottom line. Measure from Z to A on line B, one-half of breast,
or 18 inches; from B to H is one-third of breast and 1 inch; H to P is
one-fourth of breast, equal to 4½ inches. Draw a line up at P, and one
up and down at A. Mark line A also. From K to L is one-sixth of breast,
equal to 3 inches, and K to 7 is the same, 3 inches; curve neck.
Draw a line from L to D and place the width of the top of shoulder
on the back from L to 8, and curve from 8 upwards above the line
one-fourth inch; draw from 8 down in front of line P to 9. This will be
three-fourths inch in front of line P. Let this curve of the arm-hole
extend below line B, or nearly down to midway between lines B and C, and
curve to 6. From 6 draw down to 5, which is three-fourths inch from 4 to
15 and 17; at the last point it should be about 1¼ inch over the straight
line drawn down from 4 on the back.
From point G, which, as before stated, is one-fourth of the
breast-measure, 9 inches from B, draw a straight line down. Curve from G
to 12, 13 and 18; the last point is 2 inches from T; also curve from G to
12, 14 and 19. Point 19 is the same distance from T as 18.
Draw bottom line from 19 to 30 at front, where curve three-fourths inch
below the line. Add in front over F line, for double-breasted 3 inches,
and for single-breasted 1½ inches.
[Illustration: Fig. 40.]
Now we have only to show how the under-sleeve is produced. This is done
by measuring first the sleeve-head from O, where point J of the back is
sewn on, to 16, which point is in middle, between 9 and 18. This will
measure 10½ inches; as we put in 1 inch of fullness in the sleeve-head it
leaves us only 9½ inches, which is measured down the front from 8 to 10
and notched. Lay sleeve notch, marked 16, on to notch on the fore-part
10, hold it there with a pin, move it till line on sleeve, marked C, will
lay parallel with any of the lines, as C or B on fore-part. Then mark on
the fore-part along the sleeve, from notch at 10 to N of sleeve, and from
N to 21; the sleeve will now be marked on the fore-part line 10 to O, P
and A, and will be cut the same shape as the arm-hole from 10 to A, and
can be traced off on another sheet of paper.
The principle as given in this article is suitable, and the only thing
necessary, to produce any style of dolman. The change necessary for the
short or long pointed sleeve, or for any shape of arm-wing, does not
alter the principle. Pleated backs, or very much fullness in the top of
the sleeve, must be met by putting enough extra goods in to meet the
amount required for pleats or fullness.
When a regular pattern is cut addition is made where pleats are wanted.
When more fullness is wanted in the sleeve the easiest and most
correct plan is to cut the sleeve in two, from the highest part of the
sleeve-head, and opened as far as required, about 1 or 2 inches, and a
little more round put on the top.
The principle, as shown in this book, will produce for every style of
garment a correct fit, and yet it may be urged upon all using it, that
in order to produce new styles, or garments of such styles that contain
pleats or ornaments laid on the cloth, the reader’s own judgment must
necessarily help to carry him through.
In conclusion, let me say—that any point or measuring that does not seem
clear, by addressing me I will always be ready to enlighten to the best
of my ability.
[Illustration]