After this has been drawn the same as the Russian circular, lay it
against the front and cut without a seam from O down to the bottom. For
this shape, after the shoulders are seamed up, gather in the round of
sleeve from O forward. The same can be cut like the circular; also cut
off in front from top, past V, to the bottom, in a straight line down
from B. This makes a wrap with a back wing and a front. When cut in this
manner an opening can be left for the hands to go through, as shown on
the Figure, below E.
[Illustration: Fig. 35.]
A short cape, such as have been worn for some time in Europe, and are
just making their appearance here, is cut like this, reaching, however,
only to the waist. This same wrap can be cut from a dolman pattern by
laying the sleeve of a dolman on to front so that the front notches come
together and the two patterns close together some distance above, or
till within 4 or 5 inches of the top of the shoulder, then draw along
sleeve-top past the back of the sleeve.
If a line is drawn through the shoulder-point, next to the sleeve, at
right angles with the front, and the back shoulder-point laid on this
line and closing against the sleeve at blade, it will represent exactly
this circular cape, and will be one of the easiest ways to make it. The
Figure shows the outline of the dolman sleeve by the dotted line from E
forward, as it appears when lying in position.
These several wraps can be made of silk, and fur-lined, or they may be
of brocade, velvet, or seal, and are handsome in shape and outline when
correctly cut. As they are so different from the old circular they will
be much sought after, because of the newness of design and that the
sleeve can be raised on the shoulder to harmonize with the increased
prevalence of gathered and high style of sleeve-heads.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]