In making a pattern of this garment we first draw a line on the edge
of paper and make a point on the right end, as O. From O down place
three-fourths of an inch. From O to I is one-half of breast measure, or 9
inches, for a 36 size. Between O and I is J. H and I are at right angles
with first back-line. From I over on the line place one-third of breast,
equal to 6 inches, and add 1 inch, making in all 7 inches, and draw a
line up to 5. Next, from O on top line place 2 or 2½ inches and curve
from ¾ to 2½.
[Illustration: Fig. 33.]
Measure down from ¾ to D, the length of waist, say 15 inches, and the
whole length to R. Go in from straight line at D 1½ inch and curve the
right back-seam from ¾ to 1½ and R.
Make the back, at waist, 4 inches wide and curve from 5 through waist at
11 to 12 at bottom. The run of this line should be nearly straight past V
and curving at 11, and should also be wider at bottom, about 1 inch more
than from D to 11. From 2½ draw a line raising it one-half inch at 5.
For the front (Figure 34) draw a straight line from O to J. From O
down to a is one-eighth of breast, equal to 2¼ inches. From O to B is
one-sixth of breast, or 3 inches. From O to K is one-fourth of breast, or
9 inches. Square lines across at all these points. From O to A, the neck,
is one-sixth of breast.
Lay the back on to the point A and extreme shoulder resting on the line
at C. Now draw along the back shoulder while it is in this position, and
also curve from C to 12, which should only be 4 inches below C.
From K go out to H one-quarter of the breast, less 1 inch, equal to 8
inches. Having established this we can curve the shoulder easier, as seen
by dotted lines. Measure from K over on the line one-half of breast,
equal to 18 inches, and one-third of breast, or 6 inches, added.
Now lay the back-line against this last point in such a way that point 5
of the back will rest on line A-13, and so that it will be placed as seen
in Figure 35. Then carefully measure to see if the distance from K-H and
to the back-line will be exactly one-halt and one-third of breast, or 27
inches. Then curve from 12 to 13 to 14 down the back and reducing it at
the bottom about 4 inches from the position as it would be when the back
is laid as stated.
Now by the length of the back regulate that of the front, and then sweep
by the point of shoulder A from 10 to J. This latter point, and part of
this round, as produced by the sweep, should be shortened about 1 inch.
Curve the neck from A to B, and add 1 inch all along the front for a
turn-in hem.
From where the back lies against the wing, at O, draw the curve to 13 on
the top of sleeve head.
The upper part of the sleeve-head should be gathered-in considerable,
and at O a notch should be placed to facilitate the sewing in, for notch
should be sewn on notch. (See Figure 35.)
[Illustration: Fig. 34.]