[Illustration: Fig. 25.]
By using a sack pattern, cut to the measure, a walking-coat can be cut in
the most ready manner.
The back is the same as a sack-jacket. We only measure from the top down
to the length of open skirt A. From here add the lap for pleats; single
pleats require only 1¼ inch; box pleats, according to size, 2 to 4 inches.
The side-body is cut off at a length to correspond to 2 on back, plus
one-half inch, and curved up some towards side seam.
The front is made as long as the side-body, and the bottom swept from the
shoulder-point. When cut it will leave the skirt in pieces as 1, 2, 3 and
4.
Now take these pieces and lay them down, closing at hip, so that the
opening will be no more at bottom than at top; they lay close together at
12, 13 and 14.
Now draw along the skirt at back from 4 to 15. From 4 draw towards 5,
raise one-half inch above the pattern to 10, curving pattern at front.
Put in a dart at 7. From 11 to 16 trace along the front, and also along
the bottom. Add the pleat behind.
The side-body in this Figure is laid in a closing position at side, point
2, to show that the seam must have a continuous curve from 1 and 2 to the
front.
The distance from 1 and 2 to 3, and from there to the front, is noted,
and the skirt from 4 to 5-7 and 11 should be just the same with 1 inch
more added, which is pressed in before the skirt is seamed on to the
fore-part. It will be noticed that in laying the pieces of the of the
skirt together they close at 14, 12 and 13, but at the top and bottom
they are separated, equal distances, the cut at 7 reduces one opening,
and 1 inch fullness equalizes the amount the fullness is greater at 9 and
forward. The addition for single and double-breasted is made by adding on
in front of the fore-part and also on to the skirt: for a single-breasted
1 inch is enough, but for a double-breasted from 2 to 3 inches is
required.
[Illustration: Fig. 26.]